home

How to Attach a Wood Post to a Concrete Floor. Fastening a wooden post into concrete

In this article we will look at the question of how to glue wood to concrete. Sooner or later, many people who have started renovations in an apartment or house face the problem of combining these materials.

The need for gluing such materials occurs when bare concrete screed laying wooden flooring or installing baseboards with your own hands, installing wooden fillets, etc. However, sometimes fasteners are necessary for more substantial and weighty objects, and this results in additional difficulties.

Fastening methods

In the photo - installation wooden slats for installation wall panels

Over the long history of construction work has been tested a large number of methods of fastening wood to concrete. Among the current and widely used methods, we note the use of specialized assembly adhesives and the use of fastening hardware.

Let's look at the features of implementing these methods and find out which materials are optimal for carrying out such work.

Application of specialized adhesives

If reinforced concrete was cut diamond wheels, and now we have to install wooden parts that are small in size and weight, you can use special installation adhesives.

A correctly selected adhesive composition allows you to reliably fix not only baguettes or baseboards, but also overlays. stair steps. However, you need to understand that the range of adhesive compositions is wide, and therefore you should count on the optimal result only if correct selection facilities.

If you need adhesive for concrete and wood, pay attention to the following compositions:

Construction adhesive “Liquid nails”- it is relatively inexpensive and at the same time effective solution to work with materials of interest to us. “Liquid nails” are presented on the market in several modifications, namely, “Universal”, “Express”, “Super strong”, “Extra strong”, “For panels”, etc.

If the question is how to attach a wooden block to concrete wall, best choice will become a particularly vicious and universal modification.

The universal type of glue “Liquid nails” is great choice for indoor use. For example, with this method you can successfully glue wall panels made of lumber to pre-fabricated walls.

But if you are interested in how to glue wood to concrete when sub-zero temperatures, you will need “Liquid Nails” that are especially strong with a gripping force of up to 70 kg per 1 m². This glue will hold the wood even on uneven concrete at temperatures down to -17°C.

Glue "Moment"- This a wide range of various compositions with different technical and operational properties.

The photo shows the two-component composition “Epoxilin Duo”

Of particular interest is the “Epoxylin” modification, which is a two-component composition that works with a wide range of materials including concrete and wood.

After drying, the composition not only reliably holds the glued surfaces, but can also be sanded or subjected to other machining without compromising adhesive strength.

Another modification of the Moment glue, through which concrete can be joined to wood, is the Joiner Moment. This product has found wide application in the styling process. floor coverings made using lumber.

Polyurethane foam is a good option for simple and effective gluing

The photo shows the use of polyurethane foam

If necessary, it can be used as glue polyurethane foam increased strength. This is a good solution for flooring wooden coverings, installation of window sills, wall panels, etc.

This method of connecting two surfaces is characterized by a number of advantages, including:

affordable price compared to other adhesives;
high bond strength after complete drying of the composition;
low degree of thermal conductivity, which is important when finishing floors and walls;
excellent sound insulation qualities;
hydrophobicity;
biological stability;
simple instructions for use.

However, there is also significant drawback, namely, long-term drying of the foam. Therefore, for 5 minutes the glued part will have to be held in the desired position so that it does not move away from the surface.

Important: To ensure optimal contact between the bonded surfaces and the foam, they must be slightly moistened with water.

Surface preparation is the key to success

Whichever of the above compositions you choose, before attaching wood to concrete, both surfaces must be properly prepared. In order to result installation work there was a strong and durable connection, both surfaces should be as smooth as possible, dust-free and grease-free.

The main problem is the porous structure of the material, especially if diamond drilling of holes in concrete was carried out. This property causes excessive absorption of adhesives, and therefore the connection does not have time to gain the proper strength.

It is not difficult to make a coating from concrete that is predisposed to gluing; to do this, you need to reduce the number of pores. For this purpose, deep penetration primers are used, which seep into porous structure material and freeze there. As a result, the micropores close, and the density of the concrete allows the use of glue.

Important: Wooden parts should be glued to pre-prepared concrete bases in strict accordance with the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

Fastening using dowels

If you need high-quality and durable fastening wooden post to concrete, ordinary glue or foam is not enough. In this case, you can use fastening hardware, designed for high mechanical loads.

Heavy wooden parts can be attached using dowel nails and anchor bolts. The principle of operation of these fasteners is similar, since after they enter the concrete, they working part begins to burst. As a result, fastening wooden poles to concrete base turns out to be very durable.

Conclusion

There are many ways to securely connect concrete surfaces With wooden parts, but maximum strength will be guaranteed if preliminary preparation is carried out. There is no need for it if a connection using dowels is used.

More educational and useful information you will find by watching the video in this article.

Wooden building material, despite its fragility, is constantly used in buildings. Used as a base for fences, decoration of extensions, as foundation parts. During work, the tree must be periodically attached to the concrete. Many questions immediately arise: how to properly install wooden poles, how to extend their durability? Answers to them require preparation.

general information

At first glance, the situation is complicated, but there are tricks that help you cope with the work without much difficulty. Before you begin installation, you should choose what kind of wood the future base will be made of and carefully process it. Wood processing - important process, because when exposed to environment she's spoiling.

Processing is carried out on the prepared post. The support is divided into two halves, each of them is treated differently chemical preparation. The part that is underground is more susceptible to moisture; it is treated with bitumen-based solutions twice, maintaining an interval of a day. The second part of the post is usually coated with varnish, protecting the wood from wind, sun and moisture.

Important! Before processing, the wood must be dried, and careful sanding will help save bitumen impregnation.

Installation methods

After completed preparatory work let's move on to installation. We mark and prepare the place for the supports. Options for installing poles are determined by the design features and the nature of the work. Installation means concreting a support or fixing it to concrete. There are main methods:

universal concreting of the base;
use of concrete stepson;
installation on concrete;
use of frame;
special connection;
platform with box.

Versatile method - concreting

Installation of wooden poles using concreting is well suited for soils with low humidity. The installation method assumes preliminary preparation holes for the base, installing pillars in them and filling the remaining space with concrete.

To increase efficiency when digging holes, the ground is watered; the ground becomes soft and easy to work with. When the height of the pillars is 1.5 m, the depth for the hole is 0.5 m; for higher ones, the depth is increased to 0.8 m. The pillar is deepened by 1/3 of its length.

At elevated level groundwater The supports are deepened below the soil freezing level and the bottom of the holes is covered with a layer of crushed stone up to 15-20 cm, which acts as drainage. The bottom of the supports is wrapped with roofing felt, fired, and treated with resin to better protect the wood.

Having completed the preparation, they begin to compact the holes. The holes are filled with crushed stone, pieces of brick mixed with soil, and compacted tightly. We leave 15-20 cm to the top of the hole, and the empty space is filled with concrete. After the solution dries, the pole holds tightly and will not bend under the load. The joint between concrete and wood is treated with a sealant, which prevents moisture from getting between them.

The second way to install a wooden pole is to use a concrete stepson. The essence of the concreting procedure is to use not the entire column, but a small column. The sequence of the procedure is as follows:

before installation, the support is treated with an antiseptic, the part of the stepson that will be in the ground is covered with bitumen and wrapped with roofing felt;
crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the hole;
vertical fixation of the support with spacers;
Be sure to fill the wooden post with crushed stone, gravel and compact it well. Maintaining a compaction interval (every 30 cm), adding sand and water will help increase the density of the backfill;
15-20 cm to the top, the hole is filled with a concrete solution, which ensures stability.

After the concrete has hardened, it is necessary to secure the log with wire to small posts.

At first glance, the situation is complicated, but there are tricks that help you cope with the work without much difficulty. Before you begin installation, you should choose what kind of wood the future base will be made of and carefully process it. Wood processing is an important process, because when exposed to the environment, it deteriorates.

Processing is carried out on the prepared post. The support is divided into two halves, each of them is treated with a different chemical. The part that is underground is more susceptible to moisture; it is treated with bitumen-based solutions twice, maintaining an interval of a day. The second part of the post is usually coated with varnish, protecting the wood from wind, sun and moisture.

Important! Before processing, the wood must be dried, and careful sanding will help save bitumen impregnation.

Installation methods

The base is a box for installing supports.

After completing the preparatory work, we proceed to installation. We mark and prepare the place for the supports. Options for installing poles are determined by the design features and the nature of the work. Installation means concreting a support or fixing it to concrete. There are main methods:

universal concreting of the base;
use of concrete stepson;
installation on concrete;
use of frame;
special connection;
platform with box.

A versatile method - concreting

Installation of wooden poles using concreting is well suited for soils with low humidity. The installation method involves preliminary preparation of holes for the base, installation of pillars in them and filling the remaining space with concrete.

When the groundwater level is high, the supports are deepened below the soil freezing level and the bottom of the holes is covered with a layer of crushed stone up to 15-20 cm, which acts as drainage. The bottom of the supports is wrapped with roofing felt, fired, and treated with resin to better protect the wood.

Concrete stepson

The second way to install a wooden pole is to use a concrete stepson. The essence of the concreting procedure is to use not the entire log, but a small column. The sequence of the procedure is as follows:

before installation, the support is treated with an antiseptic, the part of the stepson that will be in the ground is covered with bitumen and wrapped with roofing felt;
crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the hole;
vertical fixation of the support with spacers;
Be sure to fill the wooden post with crushed stone, gravel and compact it well. Maintaining a compaction interval (every 30 cm), adding sand and water will help increase the density of the backfill;
15-20 cm to the top, the hole is filled with a concrete solution, which ensures stability.

After the concrete has hardened, it is necessary to secure the log with wire to small posts.

Concrete base

Installation of a wooden support using concrete base easy to do in several ways:

Special mount embedded in concrete. By special fastening we mean a pin with a special fastening in the form of the letter P at its end. The cross-section of the beam must correspond to the dimensions of the fastening so that the tree fits easily into the device. The inserted beam is attached with screws and bolts. The method has its drawback - only timber is used as a wooden support.
Fittings. In the absence of a specially prepared connection, ordinary reinforcement is used. The inserted iron pin into the concrete should protrude 20-25 cm above the surface. A hole is drilled on the support, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement. A seal is applied to the concrete to protect the structure from water penetration. The size of the seal is smaller than the wooden support. The joints between the pillars and concrete are covered with mortar. If necessary, the upper and lower straps will help connect all the pillars in general design. This option is more often used on a strip foundation.
A box with a platform is used for hardened concrete. Wood material placed in a specially made box, to which a platform is welded from below. Dowels are screwed into the holes on the platform, with the help of which the box is attached to the concrete.

Fixing wood to concrete is not difficult if all technologies are followed. It is worth taking care not only of reliable fixation of the material, but also of minimal environmental impact on the wood. Then the wooden supports will serve you for many years.

Most correct option porch - this is when its foundation is cast along with the house. In this case, there are practically no problems. Sometimes when planning a building it is forgotten. Then a porch is added to the house. An extension is made mainly from three materials: wood, metal and concrete. If the house is brick, they can build it out of brick. Another option is to make it from building blocks and then finish it. In any case, when planning to make a porch with your own hands, you must immediately decide what kind of foundation to make and whether or not to connect it with the base of the building.

How to calculate parameters

First you need to decide which way the steps will go. They can be on one, two or three sides. You determine this based on personal preferences and the finances that you can/want to allocate for construction. The height of the porch depends on the height of the plinth and should be 50-70 mm below the edge door leaf. This small step prevents precipitation from getting inside the house. Perhaps more importantly, it prevents the doors from becoming blocked if the porch rises up due to frost heaving (if the doors open outward).

Determining the dimensions of the upper platform

The layout of the porch begins with determining the size of the upper platform. If the doors open outward, you should be able to stand on the landing to open the doors. That is, its depth should be 30-40 cm greater than the width of the door leaf. According to GOST recommendations, the dimensions of the platform should be 1.5 times the width of the doorway. More is possible - less - undesirable - inconvenient.

If your doors are 80 cm wide, then the depth of the upper platform at the very minimum is 120 cm. Its width is determined based on the tastes and proportions of the house, but it should definitely be greater than the width of the doorway.

We count the number and sizes of steps

You know the height of the porch: 50-60 mm below the door leaf. The recommended height of the step (riser) is 15-20 cm. Divide the height of the porch by the height of the steps, you get the approximate number of steps. The number rarely turns out to be a whole number. The remaining centimeters can be divided between all steps or one of them can be made higher. Another option is to create a small step at the bottom, although this may be awkward.

The optimal width of the step (tread) is 25-30 cm. Knowing the number of steps, the depth of the upper platform, the depth of the steps, you can calculate the full dimensions of the porch. Using them you can already develop the foundation for the porch.

When choosing the parameters of the steps, you must adhere to the recommendations of SNiP: the sum of the tread and double riser should be in the range of 600-640 mm. For example, you calculated that the height of the step (riser) is 17 cm, the tread (depth of the step) is 280 mm. After performing the calculations we get: 170 mm * 2+280 mm = 620 mm. We fit into the recommended parameters, which means there is no need to change anything.

What kind of foundation is needed?

If the porch is planned to be light - wooden or metal - the foundation is most often made of piles or columns. Specifically chosen based on geological conditions. On well-draining soils with low levels groundwater enough, if you are prone to heaving, you may need it already.

For a heavy porch - made of brick or monolithic concrete- do strip foundation or . The type of foundation is most often similar to the one on which the house is built.

Next, you need to decide whether you will connect the porch foundation to the house foundation or not. Decisions are made based on the planned mass of the extension and the type of soil. Both options have disadvantages. If there is no connection, cracks often form at the junction of the porch and the house; due to frost heaving, the porch may become warped. Owners of dacha plots often face this problem - usually the porch to the dachas is made of wood and is disconnected. After the ground thaws, it may “sit” in place on its own, or it may require some additional measures.

When installing connections, it is also possible for cracks to form, but not only at the joint, but also in the “body” of the extension. This happens if the reinforced connections installed cannot compensate for the uneven load, created by the house and an extension. Therefore, a connected foundation for a porch is made if it is attached to a heavy house and is itself heavy and massive, made of reinforced concrete. The second difficulty with this decision is to make the connection high-quality. To do this, use ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm, for which holes are drilled in the foundation with a given diameter. Reinforcement is hammered into them and a frame for the porch is knitted on its basis.

There are two main designs of stairs: on bowstrings and on stringers. They can be made of wood or metal. There are also combined options- metal + wooden steps or metal + concrete steps.

Staircase designs - on bowstrings and on stringers

On the bowstrings

Stairs on bowstrings are the simplest. For a porch - a good option, especially if the house is wooden or a small country house. TO inside support bars are attached to the bowstrings. If you are working with metal, the bars are welded horizontally (you can minimum slope 1-2° so that water flows from the steps). In the case of wood, support bars can either be nailed to which the step will then be attached, or recesses can be cut into the bowstring (no more than 1/2 the thickness of the board), into which the step boards are inserted.

On the stringers

A staircase on stringers can also be of a simple design - with open supports. In this case, triangles are cut at the required angle in the upper part of the board. Their Bottom part serves as a support for the steps.

When cutting the stringer, set aside the height of the step and the width of the tread. They are connected at right angles. Using the applied markings, a template is made, with which all steps are marked.

The number of stringers in a staircase depends on its width and the thickness of the boards used for the steps. The thinner the board for the steps, the more often you need to install stringers. If you use 25 mm boards, then there should be a distance of no more than 50-60 cm between the two supports. If you need a larger staircase width and don’t want to install three stringers, use thicker boards. It is important that they do not bend under your feet.

If you decide to weld a ladder on stringers from metal, you will need to be patient: you will have to weld many small sections, but the formation principle is the same.

Methods of fastening parts

The lower edge of the porch stairs can sometimes rest directly on the ground. This option is simple, but unreliable. Firstly, the soil may settle and the stairs will begin to collapse. Secondly, upon contact with the ground, both wood and metal are destroyed faster. For wood there is special impregnations(Senezh and Senezh Ultra, for example), and the metal is well formed with a primer and painted in several layers. However, it is better to make a base - pour a shallow tape on which the bowstrings or stringers will rest.

There are two ways to attach a porch ladder to a reinforced concrete base - to a beam - a beam with a cross-section of at least 75 * 75 mm or to an embedded beam of a smaller cross-section (pictured on the left).

Difficulties may also arise with the installation of porch posts. There are several ways. There is one very simple and effective one that works great even on heaving soils(clays and loams). Holes 50-60 cm deep are dug under the pillars. A bucket and a half of sand is poured into them at the bottom and compacted well. Half a bucket of crushed stone is poured on top of the sand and compacted too. They put up a pole, level it, put spacers that will hold it in a given position. The space between the wall of the hole and the pillar is gradually filled with crushed stone, tamping it thoroughly. The hole is filled flush with the ground, the top can be concreted (so that precipitation does not drain), but not spilled to the very bottom. Pillars installed in this way do not lead even with severe heaving. A significant part of the water goes into the sand, and the remaining forces of frost heaving are absorbed by the rubble, neutralizing them.

If piles, strip foundations or monolithic slab, folded columnar base, then to attach wooden posts, studs or special glasses are walled into concrete. After the concrete has matured, the rack bars are attached to them with wood grouse or bolts.

If the racks are metal, a corner with a wall thickness of at least 3-4 mm is placed in the concrete so that it can be easily welded to it later.

When building a wooden porch with your own hands, questions may arise about attaching the railings and balusters. They can be assembled using ordinary nails, but if desired, you can use bolts or wood grouse. In this case, holes are pre-drilled, then fasteners are installed in them and tightened using an angle wrench. Such a connection is certainly more reliable than simply using nails.

If the porch is attached to a freshly cut wooden house, in which the shrinkage has not yet been completed, and the design of the porch provides for the presence of a canopy, the racks must be attached to special adjustable plates.

Please note that both the metal and wood that you will use to build the porch require careful processing. The porch is exposed to all climatic influences and the materials require good protection.

Monolithic concrete stairs

The most durable stairs are made of monolithic concrete. They take longer to manufacture than metal or wood ones, but their service life is calculated in decades. The types of concrete stairs are described in detail in the video. The basics of calculation are also given.

How to make it yourself concrete stairs on stringers, see the next video.

Wooden porch

A wooden porch is one of the most common options in our country. Wood is plastic, easy to process, costs relatively little (in our country), and forgives many mistakes. That is why it is a favorite building material.

It also has disadvantages: it requires good protection before construction begins (antibacterial impregnations and flame retardants), as well as regular maintenance - updating the protective paint coating. Then long time looks attractive, otherwise it quickly loses its decorative effect.

One of the options for building a wooden porch with a ladder on bowstrings can be seen in the video. Please note that the porch is being built on sandy soil, so the method used to install the pillars is not suitable for everyone. Everything else is clear.

Brick porch

Since brick is a dense and heavy material, a brick porch requires a serious foundation. Usually this is a monolithic slab, with double reinforcement and it is better if it is larger in size than the planned porch.

When calculating the parameters of the steps, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the brick and the thickness of the seam between them. Then the laying work will be easier - no need to cut the brick. If you are not going to cover the porch, use for the outer rows quality material. The inner rows - backfilling - can be made from scrap or building blocks and their remains.

Brick porch with wooden steps

If the house is on a high plinth, making a monolithic brick porch is too expensive. Then the columns or walls are folded, leaving empty space inside. It can then be used for household purposes or covered with decorative panels. If needed upper platform, these columns/walls are covered on top with a concrete slab - homemade or ready-made - this is your choice. Then a staircase is attached to the resulting base. It doesn't have to be brick. It can be metal, concrete or a combination.

Photo report: wooden porch on a metal frame

A theory is just a theory, and in construction too. You always understand the essence of the matter better if you observe the process yourself, because you can see how others do it and learn something for yourself.

At the request of the parents, an exact copy of the old porch was made. The only difference is that the new one has a welded metal frame.

In place of the demolished porch, a pit with a depth of 25 cm was dug. Sand was poured and compacted into layers at the bottom, crushed stone was placed on it - 10 cm each. A metal mesh with a mesh of 10 cm was laid on top and the whole thing was filled with concrete.

Welded according to the previous dimensions of the porch metal carcass(from a corner 70*5 mm). The sidewalls are set vertically and secured with studs. Next, the base for the benches is welded to them. All metal is treated with a rust converter, primed and painted twice.

The wood used for construction was dry. Planed boards were cut to size (the width of the porch) and treated with impregnation for direct contact with the ground.

We lay the dried boards on the frame. You have to drill a hole for each fastener - you can’t just take a corner.

At this stage, two mistakes were made at once. The first is that the sheathing did not start from the sides. They immediately began laying the steps. As a result, water constantly flows into the joints of the side paneling and steps and warps the wood. It is necessary to start the cladding from the sides, and make the steps a little longer so that they protrude beyond the side cladding by at least a couple of centimeters. The second mistake is that the boards on the porch are laid close to each other. At high humidity they swell and the surface becomes uneven. When laying porch sheathing, make gaps of at least 5-8 mm.

After all the boards are secured, they are sanded. First tape grinder with coarse grain, then disk with fine grain. The process is long. At the same time, the task is being solved - to remove green color impregnation. It is not covered even by three layers of tint.

After sanding, we begin painting. We apply it three times. Each layer after the previous one has completely dried. The resulting color is dark mahogany.

While the paint dries completely, we begin making the benches. We cut boards for them, grind down an oblique chamfer (for beauty), and cover them with impregnation.

We make backrests with small decor- rounded edges.

We saw along the marked lines with a jigsaw, then sanded to a smooth edge.

The sides are covered with plywood, which was painted the same color. The porch is ready.

Ready wooden porch do it yourself - side view

DIY brick and concrete porch: photo

The walls of the staircase landing were pre-built from brick, on top of which a monolithic concrete slab. Along the edge, a frame of corners is embedded into it so that the stairs and railings can be welded.

Porch plan: how everything should look

From a corner 70*70*5 mm we cut blanks of the required length. After which we treat them with a rust converter. We start cooking after the reaction has stopped and the metal has dried.

We welded the first metal string.

The finished sidewall was attached to the concrete base with two pins.

Attaching to a concrete support support

We cook the second string in the same way and secure it. When working, make sure that the two bowstrings are in the same plane.

We begin to weld the support bars. Here it is important to constantly monitor the horizontality so that the steps are not oblique.

We weld transverse pieces of the corner to the support bars to form a shelf.

The corners are welded so that they form a frame. We put a piece of slate in it. We lay out the reinforcing material on the slate metal mesh. We weld the edges of the mesh to the frame.

We pour concrete into the prepared steps. We make it high-quality so that the steps do not wear out longer.

While the concrete gains strength, we begin to work on the posts that will support the canopy over the porch. For them we take a profiled pipe 70*40*3 mm. We cut four columns from it. Two are slightly longer - they will be near the wall of the house, two are 15 cm shorter - they stand on the outer edge of the porch, creating the necessary slope - so that the water and snow melt off normally. For railings and crossbars we use profiled pipe 40*40 mm.

All metal is also treated with a rust converter.

First we set up the racks, grab them, install temporary stops

To avoid lateral stresses, it is important to position the racks strictly vertically. We set them up, grab them, use short seams in several places, and check again whether they are positioned correctly. We weld the temporary stops and only after the next check we weld them according to all the rules.

Once all the posts are aligned and welded, you can assemble the railings. At the required height they are fixed strictly horizontally.

Then we proceed to install the roof. We also cook it from profile pipe 40*40 mm. First, strapping around the perimeter - at the level of the shorter posts, then - the rest of the structure. It's not complicated, but it takes a lot of time - a lot of intersections.

Then it was time to do the railings and decorations. And again, there are no difficulties, it can be done easily if desired.

That's it, the porch is ready for finishing works. On the steps and landing purchased rough tiles for outdoor use. The sidewall of the monolithic slab was also trimmed with it.

The metal was painted with paint that matched the tone, and the corrugated sheeting left over from the installation of the roof was used on the roof. The DIY porch turned out pretty good.