Weak tomato seedlings what to do. tomato seedling not growing

After the tomatoes are picked, vegetable growers are often surprised that the plants do not develop well, and the harvest is not as much as we would like. The reason is simple: the picking process is the most milestone life of tomatoes. The number of tomatoes harvested this season depends on how timely and correctly the operation was performed. Tomato picking is the correct shortening of the main, so-called tap root of a young plant to the fruiting stage.

When to perform the operation?

The most common picking method is simultaneous transshipment, that is, transplanting a young plant into a separate pot from a common bowl in which the seeds were sown. Some advise to follow lunar calendar and start the operation at the moment when the tomato seedlings are subject to the influence of the waning moon. This has not been scientifically proven, which means that it can only be used as advisory measures at the request of the gardener. The rest of the gardeners are guided next rule: at seedlings, pinch off the tip of the root about a week after germination. In the event that the seedlings grow poorly, the procedure is postponed until the tenth day from the moment the seedlings hatch.

What mistakes can a grower make?

The main picking errors are as follows:

• too early procedure;
• shortening was made too late;
• poorly executed operation: the removed part of the root remains partially on the plant;
• too much removed;
• performance without disinfection of hands or instruments;
• inaccurate subsequent transshipment into a separate pot;
• breakage of the stem or tear of the leaves;
• plants received poor-quality care after transplantation.

Pinching the tap root too early will take a lot of strength from the plant. Shortening after seedlings develop into young plant with several pairs of real leaves - a waste of time and effort, which will not help tomatoes in any way. If the transplant after the operation was performed carelessly, and during the process, half-removed pieces of the root remained on the plant, fungal and bacterial diseases at tomatoes. The same can be said about picking with unwashed hands that have not been rinsed with at least a solution of potassium permanganate. Damage to foliage and stems at this stage of seedling growth threatens to lose individual plants and future infection of weakened tomatoes with diseases.

Not a large number of potassium permanganate diluted in warm water, will help to avoid infection of seedlings with spores of harmful fungi and prevent the death of the crop, which is why it is worth taking care of disinfection. Some gardeners recommend dipping a young tomato immediately after removing a part of the root by about 1-2 mm in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

How to correct the mistakes made?

Not all actions can be qualified as errors. There are minor errors that do not guarantee the death of tomatoes, but only lead to the fact that the culture grows poorly and slowly. Why this happens, can only tell experienced gardeners. Firstly, if the plant is not watered before picking, it can get more serious damage. And even if they then transplanted into too large a container or accidentally damaged the entire root system, shaking off too much earth before transshipment - this is also one of the answers to the question why the tomato does not grow like other seedlings. However, in most cases, the consequences of an illiterate pick can be corrected or at least minimized the harm caused to the plant.

If there are suspicions that the process was of poor quality or untimely, and the seedlings are growing much more slowly or unevenly, you can try to fix everything. You can try to cover small wilted seedlings with glasses of clear glass or put transparent bags on the pots, pulling them together with an elastic band at the base of the pot. Why is it important not to do this procedure immediately after watering? Excessive humidity can promote decay and the development of fungal diseases. However, this can save some of the weakened seedlings.

In addition, it is worth leaving young plants in the place where they were before picking, without changing anything in the watering and daylight hours.

The smallest tomatoes can be put forward so that they receive more sunlight.

Those tomatoes that got too severe damage, it is better to dispose of immediately. If, after transplanting, it turned out that two or even three plants grow in one of the pots, it is better not to disturb them with re-transshipment.

Conclusion

Picking is a simple and at the same time a crucial stage in the life of a young seedling, the health of the seedlings, its ability to adapt to new conditions in open ground, and even the overall amount of the crop obtained per season depend on it. Despite the fact that for the implementation of this operation you will need only a certain number of pots, earth and fingers, you must take it with all responsibility.

Compliance with the timing of picking, cleanliness of the procedure and careful attitude to seedlings will allow you to get healthy plants suitable for planting on suburban area.

Experienced gardeners like to grow their seedlings on their own, without resorting to purchased options. By investing your whole soul in your harvest, following the growth process from seed to large fruits, with proper control of growth, the most remarkable result is obtained. What a pleasure to hold the result of your own labors in your hands!

The process of growing seedlings is a complex and time-consuming task that requires skills and knowledge. Many questions often arise. For example, when to start landing? How to prepare for landing in the ground? Why pepper seedlings grow poorly and what to do?

Main key points indicated below. Pay attention to all the subtleties - the volume of the future harvest depends on it.

The quality of planting land is the main and main condition for successful seedlings. Just digging up land in the country is not enough to get a good seedling front.

What should be the soil for planting pepper:

1. Airy, crumbly, well-permeable to water. To achieve this result, the earth is mixed with sand or sawdust. It is better to use sawdust deciduous trees- birch, mountain ash, aspen, oak.
2. Have a pH neutral composition, that is, a certain level of acidity. This factor is very important, so you should take the choice of soil very seriously.

With an increase in acidity, much less is supplied to the roots of the plant. nutrients that are necessary for growth. Result: the plant dies of starvation.

Among other things, bacteria actively develop in an acidic environment, so it is unlikely that you can boast of a rich harvest.

If you are a gardener with experience, then a device such as a pH meter will definitely come in handy on the farm. It determines in a few minutes qualitative composition soil with a high degree of accuracy.

Not friendly with technology? Then take on board folk methods:

1. Pour the earth with table vinegar - if the soil is neutral, then bubbles will be visible on its surface;
2. Grape juice help - put a handful of earth in a glass of juice. When the color changes or bubbles appear, feel free to pick up the ground for seedlings.

Also, the ground must be useful environment for fruit germination. Particularly vigilant gardeners love to disinfect the soil, while actions often reach the point of absurdity. The soil killed by microwave rays is unable to sprout, and the soil fried in a pan is unlikely to give at least one fruit.

If you are a supporter of the fight against bacteria on preparatory stage, then do not forget that after any processing the soil needs to be shaken. You can "cheer" her up like this microbiological fertilizers like "Baikal" or "Extrasol".

The soil must contain a variety of elements for the rapid growth of plants. To enrich the soil with nitrogen, use humus or compost. An important point: rotting plants, manure in the decomposition phase is categorically not suitable for this. The process of decay is accompanied by the active release of heat into environment, and useful substances (including nitrogen) evaporate with it.

Mineral fertilizers are commercially available everywhere, their cheap and affordable counterpart is ash.

Ready mix for planting can also be purchased at the store. When choosing, pay attention to the composition: if the product consists only of peat, feel free to discard this option. And if chernozem and bark are added to it, it will do just fine.

The soil should not contain clay in large quantities. Alumina will absorb moisture well, but it will not hold it. Water passes through the clay and the plants are left without life-giving fluid, which means that their growth slows down or is reduced to nothing. No matter how much water is poured into the clay, it instantly goes further.

If for some reason you were unable to prepare quality soil in advance, the situation can still be saved. When picking or transplanting a plant into open ground add more good soil to the existing land. Form a voluminous lump, and feel free to continue planting - the peppers will grow healthy.

Unprepared pepper seeds

Planting unprepared seeds means reducing the likelihood of germination by 10-15%. In the absence of proper preparation, the seeds germinate longer, and the seedlings do not develop too strong. While the neighbors will already begin to bear fruit, you risk getting only thin stalks blooming.

Store-bought or self-harvested seeds must first be discarded. What does it mean? Seeds for 15-20 minutes are placed in a container with salt water (4 tablespoons per liter of water is enough). Full-fledged, heavy seeds, when wet, go to the bottom, and empty, unsuitable for planting, float up.

After you have decided on the source material, direct preparation begins.

The first stage of preparation is preventive disinfection. For this you need:

1. Prepare strong solution potassium permanganate. Its color should be bright pink.
2. Soak the seeds in the solution for about half an hour.
3. Rinse the treated material thoroughly with clean water.

The second stage is the stimulation of plant growth. Seeds take a bath in a solution of a special preparation (for example, "Bud", "Ovary") for 2-3 hours. In the process of soaking, it is necessary to monitor the change appearance: once the seeds are swollen, they can be pulled out to dry.

You can prepare a growth stimulator at home. The infusion is prepared from dried nettles in the proportion of 1 tablespoon per cup of boiling water. Let stand until cool, stirring occasionally and pressing on the grass.

The third stage is seed germination. It is considered alternative. Swollen ready-made seeds are quite capable of producing full-fledged seedlings. But if you want even more guarantee, you can wait for the appearance of small sprouts.

Incorrect timing of sowing

It is necessary to prepare seedlings for planting in advance, but if you get down to business too early, the plants will stretch into growth and bloom early. Perhaps the appearance of ovaries even before transplanting into open ground.

To determine when to sow, follow the seed manufacturer's instructions. On the back of the package, it is always indicated at what time to start sowing, to transplant seedlings, by what time to wait for the start of the harvest. The most suitable time for sowing is 2, and preferably 2.5 months before the planned landing.

It is important to check with favorable time work with the lunar calendar. Since the cycles of the moon directly affect the growth and development of plants, seedlings will take better if they are planted during the waxing moon.

The sowing calendar is not grandmother's tales, as advanced gardeners used to think. The interaction of the Earth and the Moon has a planetary scale. The satellite of our planet alone controls the ebbs and flows of all the earth's seas and oceans. So is there any doubt that the moon also affects the living organisms that inhabit the Earth?

During the waning moon, the growth processes in living organisms slow down, but with its renewal, the pace of development becomes much faster.

Wrong temperature

For the rapid and proper development of seedlings, you need in moderation warm air, fertile soil and sufficient water.

The place where the seedlings are located must be securely sheltered from wind or drafts that can provoke a plant disease (for example, rotting, fungal ailments). But it is still necessary to carefully ventilate the room. Excessive heat leads to weakness and thinning of the stems.

In a room where seedlings grow on initial stage(from sowing to the appearance of the first sprouts) should be at least 15 ° C. When the seedlings have already sprouted well, the conditions are close to natural, i.e. about 25 ° C in sunny days and about 20°C in cloudy weather.

Soil temperature is just as important as ambient temperature. If the soil is too cold, the result will be sad.

Possible troubles:

• putrefactive processes in the root system;
• poor absorption of nutrients by the roots;
• poor seedling growth.

Be sure to measure the temperature of the soil, even if the apartment is warm enough. The ambient air does not warm the earth in sufficient if cold is blowing on it, for example, from window glass.

The degree of soil heating should be within 26-28 degrees during germination and 20-22 degrees after hardening of seedlings.

It is undesirable to place containers with seedlings on window sills. Causes:

1. Cold air when opening and closing the window can freeze immature sprouts or supercool the soil.
2. Hot streams from the battery under the windowsill heat the ground too much. Even with sufficient watering it will be difficult for the seeds to germinate due to the development of putrefactive bacteria.
3. Direct sunlight can cause burns on young plants.

Therefore, it is better to use special shelves, which are very convenient to use, take up little space and can be moved (if there are wheels).

Seedlings need to be watered warm water to ensure a comfortable temperature.

lack of lighting

The lack of light catastrophically affects the growth of seedlings. With its small amount, crops can stop in their development, freeze in one pore. Seedlings released only two leaves and stopped growing further? The reason is undoubtedly the lack of light.

If the light in the room falls only from the side of the window, then the peppers will only turn in this direction. Since plants always reach for the sun, the seedlings will eventually become elongated and askew, the main part of the leaves will move to the illuminated side.

In order for all plants to receive a vital portion of light, there is a simple way out - to use additional lighting. Typically, fluorescent lamps are used as a source of illumination. It is suspended or otherwise fixed above the seedlings so that it is fixed at a distance of 25 cm above the tops of the plants.

Important point: the lamp will need to be moved from time to time in accordance with the growth of the tops.

The best option is one long lamp. But if the seedlings are located in such a way that it is impossible to fulfill this condition, you can install several pieces at the same height. So all plants will have enough light, and their growth will be healthy.

A screen made of foil will help provide a natural level of illumination. It can be glued to the wall of a bookcase or cabinet, and it will reflect the light emitted by the lamp. This is the most comfortable way to recreate daylight for seedlings.

Since the duration of daylight hours in winter is very short, it is advisable to leave the lamp on until late at night. Thanks to this, the plants will be able to significantly increase in growth and prepare for planting.

picking

Picking is the process of dividing the total mass of seedlings into individual containers, each of which will grow only one pepper.
The picking process is not easily tolerated by plants.

The root system of peppers and tomatoes recovers slowly. Plants after separation lag behind in growth from similar ones grown by the pickless method, on average by 2-3 weeks.

After picking, it is even possible to lose part of the seedlings - plants with an immature root system are guaranteed not to withstand such a procedure. To get around it, you need to think over the layout of seedlings, give each bush enough space.

If it is difficult enough to do this (for example, seedlings are grown in a city apartment, where there is very little space for placing containers), then the seedlings begin to grow in a common box, and then a delicate dive is made.

1. The picking start time is the appearance of at least 6 leaves in peppers. If there are fewer of them, then the seedlings are still too small, and you should not disturb the roots.
2. A few days before the proposed procedure, you need to finish watering. So the earth will be moderately dense, which will fix the separated roots, and the roots themselves will be less torn and injured.
3. Before diving plants, you need to prepare new dishes, soil, water for irrigation. The dishes should be tall so that there is enough room in it for the roots and to support the stems and first leaves. Holes must be made in the bottom of the container so that the water leaves and does not stagnate - excess water will cause the roots to rot.
4. After appropriate preparation, carefully separated plants are planted in a new dish, gently sprinkled with earth and slightly watered with warm water. It is important to exercise Special attention to transplanted peppers in the first days: a slight wilting of the leaves is possible. If the picking is carried out according to all the rules, then the plant is quickly restored.

Wrong feeding

Even with excellent initial soil, reserves useful substances are quickly depleted. The volume of earth in a pot is very small, and the seedlings develop, gain strength and absorb minerals until they are completely depleted.

Pepper - unique vegetable, he is truly a storehouse of vitamins. At the same time, he needs plentiful, but not frequent top dressing. Feeding two (maximum three) times before landing will be enough.

When is the right time to do it? by the most the right time there will be the following points:

1. The first application - with the appearance of two or three leaves. During this period, the plant is actively developing, it needs special care and plenty of nutrients.
2. The second application - after transplanting (picking) seedlings. Plants are weakened after separation, minerals are needed to maintain their vitality and stimulation active growth further.
3. The third application - a few days before planting in open ground. Peppers have to adapt to extreme conditions therefore, it is imperative to support and strengthen the strength of the plant.

The diet of peppers must include nitrogen fertilizers and minerals. Lack of sufficient nutrition leads to growth inhibition.

What happens if a plant is deprived of:

• nitrogen - the stem becomes thinner, the leaves are faded from lack of nutrition, seedlings develop very slowly;
• phosphorus - the stem is bent, the plant stops growing;
• potassium - there is no ovary of flowers, the harvest will be poor.

If your wards do not grow well, then the reason may also be a lack of trace elements. The obligatory ones are iron and copper. With an insufficient amount of fertilizers in the soil, seedlings are prone to mass diseases.

Cook inexpensive organic fertilizers at home you can use ordinary nettles and ash.

Excessive improper watering

Watering seedlings is a whole ceremony, which should be neat and unhurried. Simply pouring water from a bottle into containers with seedlings is an option for amateurs.

Too much moisture is just as unacceptable as drought.

The slow growth of seedlings, and hence poor yields in the future, are explained by plant diseases. Bacteria, fungi or insects are equally dangerous if you do not provide timely assistance.

Most often, diseases appear in flooded soil in a company with low temperatures.

How to support a sick plant:

1. The first step is to isolate diseased seedlings from healthy ones: this minimizes the risk of infection and all other plants. Then you need to get rid of diseased leaves, create comfortable conditions for the plant (avoid excessive watering or drying out, monitor the temperature of the ambient air and soil).
2. If the plant continues to wither, use drugs to fight diseases (for example, "Barrier", "Barrier"). For these purposes, ash, popular with gardeners, is also suitable, it will not only help feed an exhausted plant, but also relieve pests and a detrimental pathogenic effect.
3. In the event that none of the methods has yielded results, the infected pepper will have to be disposed of. Be sure to throw away the ground, it is enough to disinfect the container from under the seedlings.
4. Deterioration of the general condition or problems in a separate area (for example, leaves) is the reason that pests have settled somewhere. These are small beetles, mites, aphids. Their main food is the nutritious juices from the leaves of the plant, so most often they stick around the leaves, and after completely sucking out the life-giving juices, they move to the roots.
5. Regularly inspect the seedlings for pests or their traces (holes in the leaves, laid eggs, plaque on the leaves). If they have not bypassed your seedlings, be fully armed.
6. Insecticides are used to directly control phyto-pests. "Match", "Confidor" and other drugs have an active structure that is dangerous for humans. Therefore, when using them, protective equipment is necessary. Required condition- breeding and spraying seedlings with gloves, without inhaling vapors of toxic substances. Avoid contact of drugs with dishes and food. After handling plants, wash hands thoroughly with soap and water.

If there are no pests on the seedlings, but you are worried, you can take a number of preventive measures:

1. Folk method: spraying with infusions of onion or garlic, as well as marigolds (calendula). Coniferous infusion also has excellent antibacterial properties.
2. Hardening - take out seedlings on a short time to the air (on the balcony or in the garden). How do plants get used to external environment and adapt to it. An important point: hardening should not be carried out simultaneously with watering (spraying), so that the sun's rays do not burn the leaves and stems.

Unprepared open ground

The time of planting seedlings in open ground plays important role. There is no need to rush or delay the landing.

Even if the spring turned out to be cold and protracted, wait for the moment when a stable temperature is established and the earth warms up to no less than 15 degrees at a depth of 10 cm. How to measure this? Dig a hole half the height of a shovel and measure the temperature of the soil with an ordinary thermometer.

Immediately before transplanting, open ground is shed with warm water to create comfortable conditions and increase survival.

At the initial stage of growth (1.5-2 weeks), it is better to water the seedlings with warm water. This helps to protect still weak roots from hypothermia. Only transplanted plants should be fertilized moderately, once (in case of urgent need - 2 times) during the first month of growth.

Ideally, the area where the pepper is planted should be protected from strong wind, since the seedlings are hard to tolerate sudden gusts and may break off or die. But to protect the stems, it is not necessary to deepen the plant much into the planting hole, so the crop will ripen longer, and the fruits will grow small.

Experienced gardeners distinguish important point: peppers grow well in the beds after beans, peas, cucumbers.

Planting sweet and bitter varieties of peppers nearby is not recommended. Often there is a cross-pollination of the ovaries, Bell pepper can become bitter and vice versa. Outwardly, no tricks are observed, but in the process of eating a surprise can be expected.

Have a rich harvest and bon appetit!

The picking of tomatoes is intended to activate growth, therefore, when there is a slowdown in development, or seedlings generally stop responding to care in every possible way, it is urgent to save tomatoes, because one of the possible problems, if not all at once piled on.

Perhaps, when transplanting or picking, as they say, given the terminology and peculiarities of seedling development at some stages, some unaccounted moments arose in the layout of the soil mixture. The picking substrate should be enriched with all the elements that, out of habit, tomatoes need.

Stunted seedlings with no signs of progressing growth can be treated by adding nitrogen to the potting mix. Can be used complex fertilizers with a higher proportion of nitrogen in them, or pure nitrogen fertilizers in any form.

Problems with phosphorus deficiency are also possible, then its shortage manifests itself in characteristic feature: Bottom part leaves of the plant turns bright purple, which accurately reveals this problem.

If the leaves are curled and at the same time the seedlings themselves stop growing, it is necessary to feed the young tomato seedlings with potassium, that is, potash fertilizers.

With an unsuccessful pick, some problems may also arise. Any damage to the root system can then affect the development of seedlings. This is essential, because the roots contain a great life-giving force of all seedlings. If the roots are poorly compressed, then air space may form around them, which will also negatively affect the development of seedlings. To prevent this, after the seedlings have been transferred to new soil, of course, with a soil clod that is not cleared of roots, it is necessary to tamp the ground around well, then the tomato seedlings will be spared such a problem.

Improper care greatly affects the further development of seedlings after picking. This is 50% success in development, given all the nuances that may appear at first, immediately after the picking procedure.

You can not water the seedlings too much, otherwise it will deprive the seedlings of the supply of oxygen to the soil mixture, which will affect its further development. Do not be led by fear and apprehension, completely ceasing to water the seedlings due to the difficulties that have arisen or doing it less often than the norm suggests - this will also negatively affect the development of the plant.

To reanimate tomato seedlings, you need to eliminate the problem that you have identified based on the characteristics of possible causes, and then bring to normal care for tomato seedlings, its development, which will resume after the causative agent of the problem has been removed. Perhaps one more, backup, pick is required, which will cope with what the previous one has done. This time, your main goal will be to create conditions from the soil, lighting, transferring, planting, watering and feeding tomato seedlings in such a way that the second picking will revive the seedlings and become a catalyst for the development of stagnant growth.

Even experienced gardeners very often face such a problem that tomato seedlings abruptly stop growing. If this happens, then there is no need to panic. It is necessary to find out as soon as possible what is the reason for such a sudden stop in growth, and there may be several of them:

• Malnutrition,
• Wrong pick,
• Bad care
• disease,
• Pests.

Having figured out why tomato seedlings do not grow, you can begin to eliminate it.

Lack of seedling nutrition. How to eliminate the consequences?

If the plant does not grow and develop well, most likely it does not have enough nutrition. Symptoms of a deficiency of one or another element can be as follows:

With a lack of nitrogen, plants look stunted with a thin stem, small pale leaves. The appearance of a red-violet hue on the underside of the leaves indicates a deficiency of phosphorus. The lower leaves turned yellow at the edges and curled up, which means that there is not enough potassium. The absence of such an element as magnesium is manifested by marbling of the leaves. In these cases, the treatment of seedlings is to carry out the necessary top dressing.

With a lack of iron, tomato seedlings do not grow, because it develops chlorosis. Leaves of plants become discolored and turn yellow. In the presence of such symptoms, immediately stop highlighting the seedlings. AT advanced cases feed and spray with iron-containing preparations.

Wrong pick

Another of the most common reasons for stopping the growth of seedlings is incorrect picking, namely:

• The roots are bent.
• Roots too severely torn or damaged
• When planting, the roots were poorly compressed, which created air cavities next to them,

Mistakes in care

Seedling growth may stop for the following reasons:

• The flooded seedlings suffocated from lack of oxygen.
• The soil is not suitable.

In the first case, it is necessary to clean the drainage hole, and in its absence, transplant the remaining plants. In the second - as soon as possible to change the soil.

Seedling diseases

Often, tomato seedlings do not grow due to diseases. The most common diseases that inhibit its growth are:

• Root and root rot, which leads to overflow of seedlings at low air or soil temperatures. Urgently save the remaining seedlings by transplanting into fresh soil. Pre-wash the roots in a solution of phytosporin or magnesium.
• Black leg - common infection, which develops very quickly in adverse conditions.

Symptoms: darkening of the root collar, its softening and death of the plant.

Control measures: the affected seedlings are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then it is spudded and placed more rarely. The room must be systematically ventilated. However, plants can be saved only at the very first stage of the disease, so inspect the seedlings every day.

Pests

Of the pests, the most common are spider mites, earwigs or wood lice. Treat the seedlings with fitoverm, actellik or karbofos.

Qualitative planting material Growing your own is not easy. It happens that tomato seedlings do not grow well after picking. Should find out possible reasons this, and also what needs to be done so that by the time of planting in open ground the plants are developed and healthy: they have a height of at least 25 cm, strong stems and leaves without signs of wilting and yellowness.

Of particular concern is the situation if the seedlings do not grow after picking.

Of particular concern is the situation if the seedlings do not grow after picking. The reason for this may be that when transplanting seedlings into cups, the roots were injured or turned out to be bent. The plant needs time to restore the root system. Seedlings do not grow when air bubbles formed near the roots interfere with it. In this case, the soil in the cup must be compacted. A transplanted seedling does not grow well if the soil does not suit it. Sometimes it's enough partial replacement for the plant to grow.

A fungus in the soil is often the answer to the question of why ov. When spores from contaminated soil penetrate the tomato root, develop, enter the stem and clog vessels, interfering with the movement of water and nutrients. The plant looks like it hasn't been watered in a long time. In this case, the soil should be treated with a solution of manganese, potash and phosphate fertilizers. High temperatures promote the spread of Fusarium wilt.

Often fades, seedlings do not develop in a cool room. If you add to a low temperature or a sharp change in it high humidity and excessive acidity of the soil, root rot and other diseases that inhibit the development of plants cannot be avoided. The most dangerous of them is the black leg. You can help seedlings only in the early stages of the disease, you must do the following:

• ensure good ventilation;
• sprinkle wet soil with ash or sand;
• pour the soil with 1% Bordeaux liquid;
• spray with biological preparations (Baktofit, Fitosporin).

When the black leg is damaged, the tissues of the stem soften, become watery, later blacken, become thinner and dry out, which causes the seedlings to fall and die.

A fungus in the soil is often the answer to the question of why tomato seedlings wither.

How older plants, the more likely it is to solve the problem. Soil is poured into the pots, and additional roots form above the site of the lesion, after which the plant grows.

If seedlings grow poorly (video)

The importance of watering and lighting

Proper care for tomato seedlings after picking provides timely watering. Often, fearing that young seedlings grown on the windowsill above hot battery, dry up, they are not watered, but filled with water, and tomato seedlings do not develop, suffocating from a lack of oxygen. Ensure that the drainage holes in the cups are free to drain excess water. Seedlings wither and with insufficient watering. The older the plants, the more often they should be watered, especially on sunny days.

The older the plants, the more likely to cope with the problem.

Often late in development and seedlings turn yellow after picking due to insufficient lighting. With sluggish photosynthesis, the green mass grows slowly, the plants begin to hurt. Even tomato seedlings located on the south window receive only 37% of the light they need. The duration of lighting should be 12-16 hours a day. Its intensity is also important. Many gardeners believe that seedlings of early planted tomatoes grow well, provided that they are additionally illuminated with red and blue LEDs. Red color improves plant development, stimulates flowering, blue (purple) - regulates cell growth, helps the formation of short and strong stems. In any dark corner of the house, healthy seedlings can be grown under full artificial light.

Timely top dressing

Caring for tomato seedlings involves inspecting them from time to time for signs of disease or pests so as not to be late in taking action. Solitary spider mites and their eggs can only be seen with a magnifying glass, but if their colony is extensive, the infection is noticeable to the naked eye: the leaves of the tomatoes turn pale, turn yellow and crumble. Destroy the pest preparations of enteric-contact action Fitoverm, Actellik, etc.

One of the reasons why seedlings turn yellow may be a lack of nutrients in the soil. When a bush grows on a windowsill in a small amount of earth, yellowing and falling leaves indicate a lack of nitrogen or magnesium. If tomatoes do not grow well after picking, growth stimulants can be used. The most popular - Heteroauxin, Zircon, Etamon - promote root formation, which is very important after picking, and increase plant immunity. Bring them under the root in the form aqueous solution prepared according to instructions.

The first top dressing of tomatoes after picking is done after they take root in pots, after about 7-10 days. Before planting in open ground, it is fertilized once a week, most often complex top dressing is used.

Proper care of tomato seedlings provides good harvest the most useful product

To increase the resistance of seedlings to adverse conditions and diseases, recently gardeners have been using yeast-based mash. Before planting in the ground, tomatoes need only one top dressing, which must be combined with ash fertilizer. If you have your proven growing recipes healthy seedling vegetables, you can make a video about it and post it on your page on social networks.

Seedlings should be cared for in moderation so as not to overdo it with watering, heat and fertilizer. It should be noted that if seedlings are illuminated for more than 20 hours a day, iron deficiency may form. At the same time, the bush does not grow, its upper part turns yellow. And from an excess of nitrogen, the leaves become brittle and curl.

Proper care of tomato seedlings ensures a good harvest of the most useful product.