Window bindings. Types of bindings and constructive solutions for filling openings
By definition, a sash is a sash structure, consisting of vertical and horizontal bars, designed to separate a field of glazing into decorative purposes or to increase strength. In other words, the sash is all the elements of the frame that are inside the perimeter of the window unit.
The main purpose of a wooden window, as an architectural element of a building, is to provide the premises with a sufficient level natural light and the possibility of ventilation. Additionally, decorative functions are assigned to wooden windows. The window block should create comfortable environment indoors and at the same time serve as a decoration of the facade. In addition, the design of any wooden window must correspond to the climatic operating conditions in which the architectural structure is located. Accordingly, the window binding is selected taking into account all the above requirements.
Determining the number and dimensions of windows
When designing buildings and structures, the minimum glazing area is selected in accordance with the lighting standards of certain GOSTs and SNiPs. So, for example, for residential premises, the total area of windows varies in the range from 1/8 to 1/5 of the total floor area (depending on geographical latitude where the building is located and its orientation to the cardinal points).
Calculation of wooden windows (choice of type and binding scheme) is determined based on the estimated area of glazing and the proposed placement of windows on the facade. When designing wooden windows, it is necessary to give preference to standards. In some cases, when wooden windows with standard sizes cannot be applied, resort to individual design.
Knowing total area glazing and the estimated number of windows, determine linear dimensions one window opening, that is, height and width. When designing, it is necessary to take the maximum possible height of the window opening, since high windows improve illumination. When choosing the height of the window, the thermal characteristics of the room should be taken into account. For residential premises with a water heating system Bottom part windows (sill) should be above the floor at a distance of 0.7-0.9 meters. The minimum allowable distance from the ceiling to the top of the window block is 0.15-0.25 meters (to accommodate window cornices).
Having determined the maximum height of the window opening and knowing the estimated area of one wooden window, the width of the window block is determined. At the same time, it is necessary to strive for unification, that is, so that all window blocks in the room (and preferably in the entire building) were the same in width.
Choice of window frames
The scheme of window bindings affects:
- ease of use of the window (opening-closing);
- strength characteristics of the window block;
- interior and exterior aesthetics.
The width of one window unit in civil buildings usually ranges from 0.5 meters to 2.5. Based on ease of use, the width of one sash is usually taken to be 0.7 meters. The total width of the window opening is divided by the width of one sash, and we get the number of sashes in one window block. As a rule, windows in residential and public buildings one-, two- or three-fold.
Casement sashes can be the entire height of the window or only overlap part of it. If the window is low, it is advisable window sashes do full height. But with tall wooden windows, such sashes turn out to be too heavy. The significant weight of a wooden window leads to the need to use reinforced hinges and other fittings. In addition, high window sashes are inconvenient to maintain. As a rule, for high windows, the binding is complicated - in the upper part of the window block, a so-called transom is added, which can be deaf or folding. The presence of a transom allows you to reduce the height of the lower, casement part of the window. If the transom is hinged, then a horizontal lintel appears between the upper (panel) and lower (sash) parts of the window - a mullion.
The window block can be divided in width by vertical lintels - mullions, but there are also non-mullioned structures.
Double bound
Wooden windows can have two bindings. That is, two frames are mounted in one window box. In this case, the sashes can:
- open inside the room;
- open in different directions (one inward, one outward);
- move sideways
- move up.
Wooden windows with double glazing that open into the room are the most convenient in terms of operation. They are convenient to open and close, remove and hang the sashes, change and wash the glass. When completely open window sashes are not exposed to precipitation and wind. disadvantage similar design binding is a constructive complexity. In order for the sashes to open in parallel into the room, the bindings (outer and inner) must have different sizes(internal - more, external - less). The difference in size between the outer and inner binding is called dawn.
Wooden windows that open in different directions do not have this design flaw. The bindings of the outer and inner sashes are the same, but such windows are more difficult to operate. To remove the outer sash or change the glass in it, access from the outside is required, which is very problematic for windows located on upper floors. In addition, with the window wide open, atmospheric precipitation (dew, rain) can get on the outer sashes, they can close or even break the glass with the wind. At the same time, fragments are showered on pedestrian zones, often located along buildings.
Windows with lifting and sliding covers have become widespread in England and the USA (they are often called English or American). But wooden sliding windows are more suitable for geographical areas with mild climates.
Often the sashes are interrupted by horizontal and vertical slats, the so-called slabs. Slabs perform two functions at once:
- practical - increase the strength of the valves (especially important for buildings that are affected by a significant wind load);
- aesthetic - can serve as a kind of decoration for a window opening.
The more sash bars, the stronger the wooden window, but at the same time they reduce the glazing area, and, consequently, the level of illumination in the room worsens.
The distance between the glasses of the outer and inner sashes directly affects the quality of sound insulation and the heat-saving characteristics of a wooden window. How more distance between panes - the better the effect of noise absorption, but at the same time the thermal insulation deteriorates. Optimal distance between panes - 75 mm, but it can be changed in one direction or another depending on the purpose and operating conditions of the window unit.
A few words about transoms and vents
The transom can be "deaf" and folding. The window is always hinged, as a rule, along the width of one sash. Hinged transoms and vents are used for unregulated ventilation of rooms. Traditionally, these elements are located at the top of the wooden window block. The higher the window or transom, the better conditions ventilation, but for ease of maintenance, the height from the floor should not exceed 1.8 meters. The location of these elements in the lower part of the window is unacceptable, since ventilation deteriorates significantly, and heat losses increase in the cold season.
window sashes are made from pine, larch, spruce, cedar, and sometimes fir wood. Covers can be deaf (not opening) and folding (opening).
Inward-opening windows have the advantage that they are easy to open and close, wash and glaze, the sashes are not exposed to wind and precipitation when opened, and on the ground floor they do not interfere with the movement of people outside the house.
The area of the window frame depends on the required light area. The light area of window frames depends on the size of the window opening and on the floor area, as well as on geographical location buildings in the area. The light area is determined by dividing the area of the window opening by the area of the floor. The area of windows should be from 1/8 to 1/5 of the floor area. So, for a room with an area of 16 m2, the window area should be from 2 to 3.2 m2.
The height and width of window casings depend on the architecture of the building, the required light flux, as well as on the height of the room.
In residential buildings, bindings are made with a height of 1.075 to 2.275 m, and a width of 1 to 1.6 m. The window opening is set not lower than 0.7 and not higher than 1 m from the floor.
Air vents are usually installed in the upper part of the sash and are made in proportion to the size of the binding: in width within 400-500 mm, in height 300-500 mm. Hang a window on right side binding. For better air circulation, the air vents should be installed at a level of 1.6 - 1.8 m from the floor level.
Distinguish window frames with transom and without transom. Transoms can be deaf and open for ventilation of the room. A horizontal bar located between the vertical bars of the box and separating the transom from the sashes is called impost. The impost may have vertical position if it separates one leaf from another. In the latter case, the impost connects the horizontal bars of the boxes.
By the number of wings, the bindings are divided into two- and three-leaf.
double leaf window frames consist of two opening sashes and a transom; tricuspid- from one shutter deaf and two opening.
Rice. 1. Types of sashes
Each part of the window frame is assembled from the top, bottom and side straps and light transverse sashes.
The gorbylek serves to reduce the size of the inserted glass and makes it possible to use thinner and cheaper glass when glazing the binding.
In large sashes and transoms, to increase rigidity, part of the sash bars are replaced with mullions, making them the same section as the strapping bars. To ventilate the room, vents are made in the sashes, which are small frames inserted into the binding between the strapping and the slabs or mullions. The shape of the strapping, gorbylkov and mullions is standardized. All bars are first processed according to the profile, then they are sawn into segments of the required length, and the ends are processed for tenon joints.
AT In order to protect the outer walls and boxes from moisture, a low tide is attached to the lower part of the outer window frame and vents, with the help of which moisture is removed to the outer drain of the window opening. At the bottom of the tide, grooves (drip, or drip) are selected to drain the flowing water.
In boxes for ordinary bindings, quarters are selected with a depth of 1-2 mm more than the thickness of the binding. In overlapping binding boxes, the quarters are made smaller than the thickness of the binding. At the same time, a quarter is also taken in the side bar of the binding; therefore, the binding "covers" the outer edge of the box by 10-12 mm, forming the so-called overlap. Corner connections window bindings on glue are made into two spikes, and sashes with strapping and window bars - into one spike. Corner joints of window frames are additionally reinforced with dowels on glue, one per pairing. External sashes with a height of more than 1.8 m and a width of more than 0.7 m are additionally fixed on screws with metal squares, which are placed from the side of the inter-pane space.
The middle bars of the strapping should be 4 mm smaller than the side bars in width, which makes it possible to reduce the width of the middle porch, which results in comfortable overall dimensions porch, improving the lighting of the room. With a width of the outer wings up to 0.7 m and a height of up to 1.2 m, the dimensions of the side bars of the strapping should be 44-65 mm in cross section, and with a width of 0.7 to 0.8 m and a height of 1.2 to 1.8 m - 54 65 mm.
The width and height of the outer bindings opening inwards should be 50 mm less than the inner ones. This is necessary so that the outer sashes, when opened, can pass within inner box. This difference in size is called dawn.
Bindings for tighter closing of the window and reduction of airflow are made with an overlap on the bar of the box, i.e. with float.
For overlapping bindings, the difference in dimensions in width is 100 mm, and in height - 75 mm.
Ordinary porches with a cross section of the middle vertical strapping bars equal to 54-61 mm are made 110 mm wide, and porches with a mullion in windows with ordinary bindings - 140 mm wide and in overlapping bindings - 150 mm wide. The slabs are made in thickness equal to the strapping bars or 3-6 mm thinner. The minimum width of the slats in the manufacture of pine bindings should be 25 mm. In large windows, the sash bars can be more than 30 mm.
Feigned bars (flashing) are usually made overhead with a width of 30 mm and a thickness of 12 mm. Such dimensions give a strong fastening of the flashing and provide a convenient arrangement of devices.
For for conventional window vents, the bars can be 34 and 44 mm thick, 44 mm wide, and for overlay points - 51 mm wide.
In order for the sashes to close tightly and open easily, bevels are made in the outer edges of the side and middle sashes. The same is done in the edges of the window bars.
For better moisture removal from the glass, the profile of the strapping bars and slabs should start from the glass with a slope of 1:10.
The feigned strips of the flashing are overhead or solid with strapping. Overhead flashings should be used, as this makes it possible to better use the lumber and strip the strapping on grinding machines. The flashings are put on glue and strengthened with screws or metal studs.
Window frames are made from pine, larch, spruce, cedar and fir wood. Bindings can be deaf and folding.
The light area of window sashes depends on the size of the window opening and on the floor area, as well as on the location of the building in the area. The required light area is determined by dividing the area of the window opening by the area of the floor.
The area of windows should be from 1/3 to 1/5 of the floor area. So, for a room with an area of 16 m2, the window area should be from 2 to 3.2 m2. The height and width of window sashes depends on the architectural design of the building, the required illumination, and also on the height of the room.
Window frame designs are different. In accordance with GOST 8671-58, window casings for residential buildings are produced in two series. The first series includes double window sashes with and without overlap with a thickness of 44 mm bars in cleanliness. To the second series - paired window frames with a thickness of strapping bars for winter cases 44 mm and summer 32 mm. Summer bindings are usually called external bindings, and winter bindings are internal. The covers of the first series can be opened in one direction and in different directions. Bindings that open in one direction open inside the room. Bindings that open in different directions are used only in one-story buildings.
The width and height of the outer bindings opening inwards should be 50-75 mm less than the inner ones. This is necessary so that the outer sashes when opening them
do not touch the edges of the inner box. This difference in size is called dawn.
According to the number of wings, the covers are divided into single-leaf, two- and three-leaf. Double-leaf covers consist of two opening doors, and sometimes transoms, three-leaf - from one deaf and two opening doors.
Window frames: paired and separate
Speaking in simple, non-architectural language, window binding is called inner part window block around the perimeter.
This includes precisely the elements of the frame, and not fittings or double-glazed windows. The binding consists of sashes, and on old or non-standard windows - also from a window leaf or transom.
Do not forget that windows are not only home windows. For example, in offices, the binding will be completely different. For large structures necessary large quantity valves, they can be larger or smaller.
If we take into account the windows for winter garden. verandas, balconies or bright architectural structures, in which the percentage of glazing is very high, then here the design and general appearance will be completely different.
Binding details - sashes, vents - serve for the following purposes :
- strengthen the structure
- for ventilation and division of the unit into zones
- for decorative purposes
Split window frames
Separate bindings were used mainly in those times when the windows were all the same and exclusively wooden. A block of such a plan includes two bindings at once, the doors of which are hinged.
Here we are talking about old frames. They are one solid block, but at the same time they have double frames. One of them could open outward or inward, the second only inward.
Such window binding is not used today in the manufacture of plastic windows. If you want to install wooden ones, then perhaps you will be offered a similar design.
Twin window sashes
In a different way, paired bindings are created. Such window blocks are more popular. Their peak of development came at a time when massive housing developments took place in cities, especially in recent years.
The paired blocks also consist of two window frames, but this time they are tightly tied together. This creates greater rigidity, durability and strength of the window. The distance between the glasses here is standard 53 mm, which is almost twice as much as it was in the old days, when separate ones were used.
Wooden windows for residential and civil buildings. Window openings in buildings are filled with window frames, window frames and window sills.
The window frame consists of four bars with folds, into which the binding is inserted. There are four types window boxes, of which types 1, 2, 3 are intended for window openings in stone buildings, and type 4 - for window openings in buildings with chopped walls. Type 2, 3 or 4 boxes are common for outer and inner binding, and type 1 boxes are separate for one or another binding. Less wood is spent on the manufacture of individual boxes, they are more convenient for transportation, but installing these boxes in openings is more difficult than common boxes.
On the lower bar of the box, on its outer side facing the room, a quarter is selected with a depth of 10 mm. A window sill board is inserted into this quarter with an edge.
Type 1 boxes are knitted on a double straight thru-stud with on-gel. They are manufactured and delivered to the construction site necessarily in sets. 332
Common boxes are knitted from wide bars on 2-3 straight through spikes.
Type 4 boxes have in rack bars on the outside longitudinal grooves for combs cut in the end sides of the window opening. This connection of the box with the wall is more durable.
window sashes
Industrial window sashes are made from a lightweight steel bent-closed profile of our own production.
The design of windows includes the elements necessary for their installation and fastening in the window opening, maintenance during operation. The windows are equipped with a rubber profile for fixing the glass and sealing the transom porches.
Options for the execution of window sashes are accepted according to the design and technological album developed by ZZMK LLC based on series 1.436.3-21:
- OGD blind window with a single binding;
- OTD opening window with single binding and transom opening mechanism;
- OGR blind window with separate bindings;
- OTP opening window with separate sashes and transom opening mechanism;
- OZD window with louvre grille in single binding.
In order to glaze a window, before work it is necessary to clean the folds of the bindings, dry them and oil them (no drying oil should be applied with bituminous putties), if the bindings have not been painted before. In harnesses and slabs, quarters are chosen, called folds. Glasses are installed and fixed in them (Fig. 22).
Rice. 22. How to install and strengthen glass in window opening
:
1 - glazing bead; 2 - glass; 3 - putty in folds; 4 - folds; 5 - layouts
The dimensions of the folds in depth and width are different and depend on the area of the glass installed in them. The folds of all elements of one binding must be in the same plane. Do not install butt glass, as well as glass with cracks. Wooden window sashes can be glazed on single or double putty, on putty spreads and on lay-outs with elastic spacers. Glazing on a single putty is carried out mainly only in temporary premises and is the simplest, because it does not require laying putty beds in folds under the glass (Fig. 23).
Rice. 23. Glass insert on single putty
:
1 - gap between glass and binding bar; 2 - glass; 3 - putty; 4 - hairpin
However, because of this, the glass does not lie tightly on the folds and may burst when fastened with studs. In addition, water penetrates into the gaps between the seam and glass, as a result of which the bindings begin to rot. With swelling, warping of bindings, freezing of water in the gaps between the folds and glass, the latter may burst. Fixing glasses with studs, applying putty is similar to the operations carried out when inserting glasses on double putty. Glazing on double putty is produced by a layer of soft putty previously laid in the folds of the binding, called the bed. When laying a bed, the putty layer should be at least 2-3 mm along the entire length of the fold without breaking. Knead a lump of putty in your hand (preferably based on linseed oil). If the putty is too hard, add a little linseed oil. Forming a strip from it, press it into the fold of the frame thumb. Fill in all the folds. Then glass is laid on the bed putty so that it is located at the same distance on all sides of the fold. The glass installed in the folds must overlap them by at least 0.5 width (Fig. 24).
Rice. 24. Laying glass in the folds of the binding
A gap of at least 2 mm must be maintained between the glass edge and the rebate edge. The laid glass is pressed against the folds until the excess putty is squeezed out and the glass lies tightly on the folds, on which the most thin layer putty (Fig. 25). Then the glass is fixed with studs (Fig. 26).
Rice. 25. Pressing glass in bed putty
Rice. 26. How to fix glass in wood binding with studs
:
a - bending of the wire pin; b - fixing the glass with a wire pin; c - correct fastening of glass with studs; d - incorrect fastening of glass with studs (1 - studs, 2 - glass)
Studs are placed at a distance of 200-300 mm from one another. Studs are hammered so that they are directed exactly along the surface of the glass, or so that their tip is directed slightly upwards from the glass. In these cases, the glass is pressed either with the entire pin or with its end. If the studs clog below the glass, they will weakly hold it and put pressure on the edge of the glass, which can cause it to crack or burst. Wire studs are hammered in manually or with a gun. After fixing the glass, the folds are coated with putty using a syringe or manually and leveled with a conventional or special knife(Fig. 27). Extruded bed putty is cut off and smoothed at a right angle or on a cone. A section of a beam of window sash, glazed with double putty, is shown in fig. 28.
Rice. 27. Cutting (a) and smoothing (b) bed putty
Rice. 28. Glass inserted on double putty:
1 - bed putty, smoothed at a right angle; 2, 6 - glass; 3, 5 - putty; 4 - hairpin; 7 - bed putty, smoothed down on a cone
Inserting glass on glazing beads can be done dry, without putty, or with laying on bed putty, as well as installing glass and glazing beads on putty or inserting glass on glazing beads with elastic gaskets. Beads are slats various shapes, which simultaneously press the glass and fill the folds instead of putty. When inserted dry, the glass is simply laid and fixed with glazing beads. When inserting glass only on bed putty (Fig. 29), glass is laid on it, pressed tightly and fixed with glazing beads. Excess squeezed out putty is cut off and smoothed.
Rice. 29. Inserting glass and laying glazing beads on putty
:
1 - putty; 2 - glass; 3 - glazing bead; 4 - screw
When inserting glass and glazing beads on the putty, the glass is placed on the bed putty and pressed against the folds. The glazing bead is coated with putty on one or both sides, laid in place and fixed with screws. Excess squeezed out putty is cut off and smoothed. When inserting glass on glazing beads with elastic gaskets (Fig. 30), the latter are most often in the form of the letter P, but sometimes rubber tubes are also used. The gaskets are put on the glass, and for bending at the corners of the glass, a triangle is cut out in the gaskets, but in such a way that in places of the cut they are closely adjacent to each other (Fig. 30, c). The gaskets should be joined at the top or on the sides of the glass (Fig. 30 d, e). So that they do not diverge, they are glued together. The joints can be fastened with thin brackets (Fig. 30d, 1). It is best to stick the gaskets on the glass. The dimensions of the glass with gaskets on must be such that there is a gap of 3 mm between the gaskets and the folds on all sides. Then a bead is attached (Fig. 30, g, 5) and attached to the binding bar with screws (Fig. 30, g, 6) or nails. Gaskets should be flush with the edges of the bar or glazing bead, or 1 mm below them. The protruding gasket is cut off with a chisel or knife (Fig. 30, f).
Rice. thirty. Glass insert on elastic pads
:
a - rectangular; b - tubular; c - cutouts in the gasket for mating in the corners; g - fastening the joints of the gaskets; e - the position of the joint on the glass; e - cutting off excess protruding gasket; g - inserted glass on the gasket; 1 - bracket; 2 - joints; 3 - glass; 4 - gasket; 5 - glazing bead; 6 - screw
In temporary housing and utility rooms(but only in them) glass can be composite, but it must consist of no more than two pieces. Glasses are joined both vertically and horizontally: the last way give preference (Fig. 31). Usually it is overlapped, the width of which should be up to 20 mm.
Rice. 31. Composite glass insertion methods
:
a - back to back; b - overlap; in - details of the joint; 1 - bottom glass; 2 - studs for the top glass; 3 - pin, pressing the top glass; 4 - top glass; 5 - a layer of bed putty under the top glass; 6 - putty at the joints of glass; 7 - bracket
Put the bottom glass first. In order for the upper glass (4) to hold firmly and not fall down, it is hooked with at least two brackets (7) and smeared with putty (6) on both sides. When glazing large-width bindings, they put not two, but three or four brackets. The brackets are bent in such a way that they do not come out due to the glass overlap. Instead of brackets under the top glass, you can hammer in the studs (2) at a distance of 20 mm from the edge and press them with the studs (3) to the folds so that the glass cannot move away from them. Brackets are made of tin or roofing steel, cutting strips 10-15 mm wide for this purpose.
Sometimes the glasses are butt-jointed. It looks more beautiful, since the seam is almost imperceptible, if the glasses are precisely cut, then the blowing between them is insignificant. When butt-joining, glasses of the same thickness should be used so that their edges are flush. This prevents hands from being cut while wiping. In order to completely exclude blowing through, putty should be applied to the edge of one glass and the glass should be pressed tightly during installation. Excess squeezed out putty is cut off, and the seam is wiped so that the edges of the glass are clean. In this case, a clearly visible seam remains. It will be less noticeable if you use thick whitewash instead of putty.
When inserted with an overlap, a more noticeable seam from overlapping edges remains, but the ventilation is significantly reduced. To make the edges of the glass more closely fit one another, before inserting the second half or top glass, putty should be put on the folds. When inserting the glass, it must be pressed so that the edge fits snugly against the first (lower) glass (1). Composite glass should be fixed more often than whole glass. Under the edge of the upper glass, it is necessary to drive in nails or studs from both sides. After fixing the glass with studs and coating the folds with putty or setting glazing beads, the joints are coated, the putty is leveled and smoothed. In order for the glazing beads to better hold the top glass, they make a small cutout along its thickness. If you put thin slats under the glass, you can put glazing beads without a cutout.
When re-plastering the folds with putty, first of all, you need to remove the weakly adhering putty, and then hammer in a few pins. Wet folds are then dried, varnished or painted over, and only then putty is applied to the folds again. The outer bindings are often wetted, which leads to the destruction of not only the putty, but also the bindings themselves. It is recommended to remove the glass, clean the folds, dry them well, completely oil or paint over, then dry the paint and only after that insert the glass on double putty with careful smoothing of the extruded bed putty, and after it dries, paint over the bindings from the inside of the room. This will provide more long term putty services.
When repairing glasses fixed with glazing beads, first of all, they take out the nails with which the glazing beads are nailed to the folds of the cover. To do this, a chisel is inserted between the glazing bead and the fold and slightly pressed on it to raise the glazing bead. Then the chisel is removed and the glazing bead usually sits in place, but the nail heads remain raised, protruding slightly above the glazing bead, and are easily removed with pliers. The pin is then removed. If the glazing bead is filled with screws and repeatedly painted over, then first of all it is necessary to clear the slots - cuts in the heads of the screws. This is done with an awl or other sharp object. A screwdriver is inserted into the cleared slots and the screws are unscrewed either completely or not completely, leaving them in the glazing beads. Beads are removed carefully so as not to split the glass, since it is possible that in such a binding you only have to smear the putty. If the glasses are intact, and the glazing beads are rotten, they are replaced by putting new ones. The glazing beads are cut to size, their ends are cut off into a “whisker”, they are dried and painted 1-2 times. The old putty is removed from the glass, the glazing beads are smeared with new putty, put in place and fixed with nails or screws. If the glazing beads are attached to the folds without coating, the lower glazing bead should still be put on the putty, since water always flows onto it.
How to bind a book yourself (hardcover).Why bind your own books? Well, for example, you wrote a novel or a collection of poems and you want to give them to friends, but you don’t have money for a printing house. Or you downloaded your favorite book from the Internet and want to have it not only in in electronic format, but also in ordinary paper.
I ran into the problem of hardcover when I prepared for printing a collection of local lore by I.M. Ulyanova (two volumes) and wanted to print it in a printing house at her own expense in a small edition - no more than 50 copies. The collection had a large number of color pictures, and it turned out that it would be unreasonably expensive. Then I decided to print it myself - at home, on my own laser printer. The cost of printing was quite reasonable and I successfully printed the first few copies, intending to have them bound by a professional bookbinding shop. I wanted a hard cover, always with a dust jacket, so that the book looked beautiful. It turned out, however, that the cost of hardcover exceeds the cost of printing, and here I had to think. All together (print + binding) turned out to be too expensive ...
There was only one way out - to bind the most. After listening to the advice of my husband, who had the Young Binder set as a child, and finding a couple of articles on the Internet (which, as experience showed, were not very good), I set to work. The first pancake turned out to be lumpy (some essential details were not reflected in the articles found), but the second one turned out to be quite strong and beautiful, at least I was quite pleased with the result.
Books that you can make yourself.
Of course, it is impossible to achieve typographic quality at home (the most a big problem- with trimmed edges), but if you need a book not for sale, but as a gift option (as it was in my case) or for home use, it fits perfectly. In addition, its "gift" can be emphasized by playing with the color of the cover and its design - there is a lot of room for imagination here.
Required tools:
1. Two boards
2. Two clamps
3. File for metal
4. Glue brush
5. Scissors
6. Paper knife
Necessary materials:
PVA glue.
Thick white thread or not too thick white rope.
Gauze-like material, but more rigid. You can buy it at the fabric store - similar material used to strengthen the sides of jackets, etc. Gauze is also good, but it is difficult to cut straight.
Cardboard (any color) - for hard cover. The cardboard should be very dense and almost rigid. If such cardboard is difficult to buy, you can use ordinary cardboard, but then you need to glue it in two or three layers.
Colored paper (for pasting the cover). Any paper will do. The best one is not too thin and not too thick, say, something in between whatman paper and wrapping paper (in terms of density).
Fabric roller for the spine. This is the most problematic (in terms of purchase) element. Look at the spine of any store-bought hardcover book and you'll see exactly what you need. Buying it, however, is difficult. At first, for lack of a roller, I just used a braid with a similar canvas from the Fabric store. Then I managed to buy what I needed in a specialized store, but it was not so easy to find it. This detail is purely decorative, covering what remains inside the spine, so in principle you can do without it.
Spine with roller; strips with a roller, bought in a specialized store.
Before you begin, take a close look at how any hardcover store book is made, try to look inside the spine to get an idea of \u200b\u200bhow your book should look like as a result. The first time I advise you to try on the "waste" so that it would not be a pity to throw it away. The second copy can be done already whitewashed.
Stage #1
So, you have a thick stack of printed pages. Their format can be any (in my case - A5). Now you need to align the edge as evenly as possible. You can align by tapping different sides of the stack on a flat table, making sure that no page sticks out. Particular attention should be paid to the left and top edges- the one where the spine will be, and the one that will be visible when the book is on the shelf. The other two edges are not so important.
When the edges are smooth enough, very carefully (so as not to knock them down) put the stack on the table or on the board (so as not to stain the table with glue), with the spine towards you, so that the edge of the stack sticks out a little beyond the table (then it is more convenient to smear it ). From above, very carefully (again, so as not to knock down the edges), put some kind of temporary load, say, a book. Then thickly smear the spine with PVA glue and let it dry slightly (2-3 minutes is enough).
You can, of course, print a book from "notebooks", as is done in printing houses - most printers allow this. But then there are two problems.
It will be necessary to sew each notebook by hand, which will take time, especially if the book is thick and each contains, say, 20 notebooks (one notebook usually has 16 sheets).
It will be necessary to trim the edges, because. in notebooks they will never be even. My experience has shown that it is almost impossible to trim the edge evenly at home, so I settled on printing in separate sheets - the edges then look much better. The binding turns out to be strong enough, does not “break”, and practically does not “eat up” the left margin (so that when printing, the left and right margins can be left the same).
When the glue is slightly dry and moving the pack is no longer so scary, remove the temporary weight and carefully move the future book a little further from the edge of the table or board so that the spine no longer hangs. Put the second board on top (so that the spine does not stick out, but is pressed from above), clamp everything tightly with two clamps and leave to dry for several hours. (It is believed that PVA glue dries completely in 12 hours, but at this stage 3-4 hours will be enough). This initial gluing is necessary in order to make it easier to saw - so that the stack of sheets holds together more firmly and does not move.
Stage number 2.
Remove the clamps and again move the pack and boards to the edge of the table, so that the boards protrude 3 centimeters beyond the edge of the table (so as not to inadvertently saw the table), and the edge of the paper stack protrudes 2 millimeters beyond the edge of the boards. Clamp everything with clamps. Mark the protruding edge with a pencil at even intervals (I make them 2 cm). In the places of marking with a metal file, make cuts with a depth of 1 mm. Make sure that the cuts are even and strictly perpendicular to the spine.
Now you will need glue, a brush and a rope. The rope is inserted into the cuts, its thickness should be such that it enters the cuts quite tightly. If you use threads, they must be twisted 5-6 times. The rope, if too thick, can be untwisted into pieces. Cuts and rope are needed to strengthen the spine - they hold it firmly enough and the spine does not “break”, as often happens in glued store books. Without it, your book may simply fall apart.
At this stage, you need to have pre-cut gauze and rollers at the ready. Cut the gauze like this: the length should be 1 cm less than the length of your spine. The width is equal to the width of the spine + 2 cm along both edges. If, say, your spine is 21 x 2 cm, then the gauze should be 20 x 6 cm. You need two rollers, the width of each is equal to the width of the spine.
There should also be a strip of paper at the ready, which is glued to the spine over the gauze and rollers, so as not to smear the hands with glue, smoothing the gauze to the spine. This paper can be any, it will not be visible. I use regular brown wrapping paper. Its dimensions along the length are 7-8 mm less than the length of the spine, and the width is equal to the width of the spine.
When everything is ready, start the process:
Thickly glue the spine with the cuts, making sure that the glue flows into each cut. Insert the ropes into each cut (I also smear them with glue beforehand), so that their ends stick out by 2-3 cm. Pull the ropes over the protruding ends so that they sit snugly in the cuts. Again, smear everything with glue and stick gauze, then rollers. Again, smear all this on the outside with glue and stick a strip of paper, smoothing it to the spine, so that everything is well glued together. In this form, everything must be left overnight so that it dries well.
Stage #3 (next day)
indoor unit future book ready. Remove the clamps, cut off the excess ends of the ropes with a knife.
Bookends
Next, let's take care of the flyers. They must be made of thick Whatman paper, because. bear half of the structural load - it is on them (and also on gauze) that the cover is held. (By the way, they can be colored, not necessarily white). If your book is A5, then the flyleaf is A4, folded in half. Its outer edge needs to be trimmed a little, because. from the side of the spine, the ends of the ropes protrude slightly, they will interfere with the endpaper sticker. (Cutting them completely flush is not possible). When the flyleaf is folded, fitted to the book and trimmed, glue the strip at the fold (3-4 mm) with glue and stick it on the block. Then turn the book over and paste another. Leave under pressure for at least half an hour, but for now you can do the cover.
Cover
First, cut out the cardboard. This is a hard cover base, consists of three separate parts- two identical in size crusts and spine. The crusts should be 8 mm higher than the height of your glued block (so that they stick out 4 mm on each side), and equal in width to the block. Those. if your block is A5 format, i.e. 21 x 14.8 cm, then the dimensions of the crusts are 21.8 x 14.8 cm. The spine should be equal in height to the crusts (21.8 cm in the case of A5), and in width equal to the thickness of your block. It can be made of thinner cardboard.
Choose paper suitable color, cut it out:
In height, it should protrude beyond the cardboard crusts by 2-3 cm on each side. In width (dancing from the middle): spine width + 8 mm spacing on each side, + width of cardboard crusts on each side + 2-3 cm on each side (see photo). On the inside Paper would be nice to make markings, it greatly facilitates the layout.
Next comes the sticker. Smear glue on one side of the crusts and spine, stick, press. Diagonally cut the edges of the paper (with an indent of 3-4 mm from the corner). Smear the protruding edges with glue, bend them into crusts, press them. At this stage, it is better to leave the cover under the load for at least an hour. In principle, the cover is ready.
Then there is the question of its design. Even if a dust jacket is planned, the author's name and title (or, in my case, volume number) should still be written on the cover and on the spine. How to do it? Not everyone, even architects, can absolutely exactly make an inscription by hand. I've tried stenciling, but it's not accurate. The decision came as follows: to print on the printer a slightly modified fragment of the dust jacket with the author and volume number, and then stick it on. Simple, but looks, from my point of view, quite well.
We paste the printed name on the cover. It is better to do this with a pencil markup - so that the inscription on the spine is in the center, and nothing would move anywhere. The cover is ready.
Then comes a not difficult, but crucial moment - to glue together indoor unit and cover. This moment requires great precision, so fitting is necessary first. Insert the block into the cover so that the edges of the cover stick out evenly, and ALWAYS make pencil marks on the corners of the endpapers.
Smear one edge of the gauze with glue, glue it to the endpaper. Now smear the entire flyleaf with the gauze with glue. To prevent excess glue from sticking the pages, a sheet of paper can be laid inside the endpaper. Raise the book (the cover is lying on the table), turn it over with a smeared endpaper down and glue the endpaper to the cover, starting from the edges - combining the edges of the flyleaf with pencil marks.
Put the book on the table (glued side down) and glue the gauze on the other side, glue it to the flyleaf, then smear the entire second flyleaf. My experience has shown that it is most convenient to simply “put” the cover on the flyleaf without lifting the book from its place. Usually, in this way, the edges of the flyleaf are most evenly aligned with the pencil marks, but you still need to check whether the corners are aligned with the marks, and if not, then align them until the glue has dried.
You can run a wooden template along the spine (or just the corner of a plastic ruler), but be careful not to tear the paper. This gives the spine a "sharpness".
Now you need to put the book under the press all night so that it dries well.
By morning, your book is completely ready.
A dust jacket is just a sheet of paper (its dimensions are easy to calculate). The only point to consider here is that the final dust jacket design should be done after the first hardcover is ready - only then will you know exactly the size of your book. (With the A5 page format and the height of the cardboard crusts is 21.8 mm, the height of the dust jacket is exactly 22 cm (the paper with which the cardboard is pasted over also gives thickness).
With an A5 book format, the length of the dust jacket is slightly longer than A3. I print it on two sheets of A4 (paper is needed good quality) and glued from the inside with tape. On the sides (which will be bent inward) I glue the white stripes to the required width. Since the dust jacket is motley, the gluing is almost invisible from the outside.
