How to insulate windows from double-glazed windows. Insulation of plastic windows

Wooden windows are replaced with new ones made of PVC or metal-plastic, for the reason that they lose their ability to retain precious heat in an apartment or house. When installing a double-glazed window, few people are interested in how it will behave in the future. Will it let the cold through, is it necessary to carry out insulation, how effective is it.

Many consumers are wondering how to insulate a plastic window. Like any other design, a metal-plastic or plastic system has weaknesses. They act as a direct way for heat to escape from the room.

Why is it blowing? This is a question often asked by homeowners. If you are also one of them, then you should consider the main components and deal with the design features of the window block. The most common places to inflate are:

• rubber compressor;
• the perimeter of the window frame;
• window glazing bead;
• window fittings.

In order to determine where the air is blowing from the plastic window, you must run your palm over the surface of the block. You can also use a lighter. The last procedure is very simple. It is similar to the previous one. The fire will be sensitive to drafts, so you can detect blowing.

Before insulating a plastic window, you can take a sheet of paper and clamp it in the sash. If you pull on the corner, you can easily pull out the sheet. In this case, we are talking about insufficient sealing of the double-glazed window. This indicates that the seal is poorly pressed against the frame.

Why is it blowing from the window

Many consumers eventually wonder why it starts to blow out of a plastic window. There can be many reasons. Among others, it should be noted:

• installation error;
• skewed double-glazed window;
• physical wear of window components;
• violation of the rules of operation.

The most common cause is an installation error. It may be due to non-compliance with technology. Sometimes it happens that the window is simply skewed. This problem remains relevant for residents of wooden houses and new buildings.

Window components may experience physical wear and tear. This is especially true for rubber seals. In order not to decide over time the question of how to insulate a plastic window, you must properly operate it. The seal must be washed and treated with glycerin from time to time. Such care will prevent loss of elasticity and cracking of the material.

What can you do yourself

If you want to solve the issue of blowing, then you can replace the seals with your own hands, insulate the contours of the frame, and insulate the window opening and window sill. It is necessary to do this work before the onset of cold weather. This is due to more comfortable working conditions, optimal humidity, material requirements, lack of drafts and a reduced risk of getting a cold. When it is warm outside, you can perform not only external, but also internal insulation.

If you are thinking about the question of how to insulate a plastic window, then first you need to choose a material. For this, they are usually used:

• mounting foam;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• expanded polystyrene.

The first option allows you to fill all the voids around the perimeter of the opening. This approach will eliminate the movement of air. Foam is 90% air, so it will be an excellent insulation. But in a frozen state, it must be protected from ultraviolet radiation, low and high temperatures.

Mineral wool will be an excellent solution for thermal insulation of internal slopes and window sills. It has a limited range of use for insulation. As for the foam, it is widely used for slope insulation. Rigid insulation is advisable to use when the thickness of the mounting seam is not more than 3 mm. In all other cases, it is better to purchase mineral wool.

If you want to resolve the issue of how to insulate plastic windows for the winter, you can consider silicone sealant. It will eliminate the blowing between the elements of the double-glazed window. Dry mixes for slopes are also widely used. With their help, you can also carry out thermal insulation from the outside. But if you purchase construction tape, then it will need to be glued on top of the sealant. Sometimes it is used as an independent heater.

Preparation for thermal insulation of the window block

In order to insulate the window block, it is necessary to prepare:

• sealant;
• sealant;
• construction tape;
• heat-saving film.

The latter is also called energy saving. An excellent way of thermal insulation will be mechanical methods. This should include adjusting fittings.

External slope insulation

Quite often, owners of houses and apartments are wondering how to properly insulate the slopes of plastic windows. The first step on the way to improving the thermal insulation properties of the structure is the displacement of the dew point. This will eliminate the appearance of dampness and the development of fungus.

You can cover up the cracks, but this measure will be temporary, since over time the plaster will crack and open the mounting foam. The latter, under the influence of external factors, will begin to collapse. Plaster can cover the insulation, protecting the layer from atmospheric phenomena.

First you need to prepare a hard insulation and clean the surface of the slopes from protruding parts and dirt. The base is primed. A heater is installed on the adhesive solution or foam. It is better to use foam, as it eliminates the need for wet work and sets in a short time. With it, you can strengthen the insulation sheet as firmly as possible.

If you are faced with the task of how to insulate the slopes of plastic windows, then you will need to seal all the cracks with glue, install a perforated corner, a polymer mesh and finish the surface with plaster. When installing a layer of thermal insulation, it is necessary to ensure that the material overlaps part of the window frame and protects the installation seam.

Thermal insulation of ebbs

If you want to insulate the ebbs, then it will be enough to fill the gaps with foam or place heat-insulating material inside. In order to protect it from contact with moisture, it is necessary to mount a metal ebb bar on top. It is at an angle of 5°. The horizontal edge must extend beyond the facade by 30 mm. The side edges are wrapped up. The place where the bar will adjoin the surfaces must be treated with a sealant.

Internal thermal insulation

If you are among those who want to insulate a plastic window inside, then you should take care of the slopes, which are not so strongly influenced by external factors, but can still become a place through which heat escapes. It is important to keep the slopes aesthetically attractive.

First you need to process the cracks, remove dirt and old foam. A primer is applied to the surface. The slots are filled with mounting foam. Its excess after drying should be removed. Next, thermal insulation materials are installed. They can be cotton wool or polystyrene. The next step is to install drywall. It is important to finish its surface by covering it with putty and painting.

Window sill thermal insulation

If you want to insulate plastic windows for the winter with your own hands, then you can also do a window sill. The gaps between it and the wall are a place of significant heat loss. Before starting work, it is important to determine the weak point of this part of the window block. Blowing can be between parts of the window and the window sill.

In this case, a sealant is usually used. Heat can go to the place between the wall and the window sill. In this case, thermal insulation should be carried out before installing the window sill by laying an insulating layer. After completion of the installation work, the distance between the concrete or brick wall and the window sill can be filled with foam.

Warming by adjustment method

If you want to resolve the issue of how to insulate plastic windows with your own hands, then you can act in a comprehensive manner. For this, in addition to the above methods, adjustment is usually used. You can eliminate the skew of the sash.

Some property owners change the seal. You can do it yourself. The old material is pulled out and the new material is installed in the groove. Before that, you must decide which sealant to choose. After reviewing the assortment, you will understand that black and gray seals are on sale. The former are more plastic, while the light shade is due to the presence of additives that reduce the price and worsen the properties. The material is not so tight at the moment of pressing.

Alternative ways

If you still cannot decide for yourself the question of how you can insulate plastic windows with your own hands, then you can use simpler methods. To do this, many use thick curtains that retain the ability to retain heat indoors. Sometimes improvised means are also used, but some of them can spoil the appearance of the double-glazed window.

As a heater are used:

• window tape;
• soaked paper;
• foam rubber;
• strips of white fabric.

You can purchase heat-saving film, which is also called energy-saving. It is glued to the sash. It is important to exclude the formation of air bubbles and the formation of folds. The film can reduce heat loss by 75%.

If you want to understand how to properly insulate plastic windows, you can use electric heating. In this case, a heating cable is located around the double-glazed window, which will heat the spiral. Sometimes an oil cooler is installed on the window. The most technologically advanced method is the electric heating of a double-glazed window.

You can install heated windows. This technique is used at the production stage. It provides for the installation of a conductive film on the inside of the glass. It is transparent and contains conductive threads. In this case, the glass is heated from the inside. If you still have not decided how to insulate plastic windows for the winter, you can use an integrated approach. It is the most appropriate in a private house or apartment, as it allows you to eliminate possible causes of heat leakage.

Using a special tool

For insulation, you can use the method of adjusting the pressure of the valves. For this, an eccentric is used. Elements are installed around the perimeter. To ensure a tight clamp, the eccentric scrolls clockwise. There are risks on the elements. When they are facing the street, this indicates a weakening of the pressure. If the pointer is facing the seal, you will ensure that the sash is well pressed against the structure.

It is also important to pay attention to the loops. They have their own mechanism. It provides grip. When adjusting the device, you will need to use a hex key. By sliding the tongue, you can ensure a snug fit of the sash. To extend, turn the hex counterclockwise. When the loop is on the right, the rotation is carried out in the other direction - clockwise. It is very easy to eliminate the skew of the valves.

Finally

Now you know how to insulate the slopes of plastic windows inside. For an integrated approach, it is necessary to pay attention to the window sill. Experts do not recommend other works on thermal insulation.

You should also be prepared for the fact that insulation can adversely affect the ventilation in the room. Full tightness is not only protection from cold, but also fogging of glasses, which causes the destruction of slopes and the occurrence of fungus.

A warm home is a coziness and a comfortable atmosphere in the family. Since ancient times, people have sought to warm their homes, while inventing more and more new tools and materials. To date, during the construction of houses, consumers have divided into two camps: some install plastic windows and are completely confident in their practicality and safety, while others adhere to the “old rules” and install wooden windows in their homes. There is another category - those who, for whatever reason, have not yet changed the old windows.

It has been proven that uninsulated windows lead to the loss of half of the heat. Therefore, the insulation of old wooden windows is a forced and justified measure.

How to insulate wooden windows

There are several ways to solve this problem. Of course, due to our mentality, we are used to using proven methods, as they say, "from the bins of our ancestors." These methods are effective, but modern materials used for insulation are in no way inferior to them.

The main reason for the entry of cold air into the room is the presence of cracks and cracks through which the cold seeps. All the main methods of window insulation are based on eliminating gaps in the structure and plugging gaps.

Traditional insulation methods

Everyone remembers from childhood how to insulate wooden windows with improvised means. To do this, use strips of fabric, clog the cracks with rags and cotton wool, and seal with tape. Of course, they are effective to some extent, but first you need to understand the nature of heat loss.

There are several factors that affect heat transfer:

• thermal conductivity of walls, floor, ceiling and door and window openings;
• the conductivity of sunlight through a double-glazed window;
• heat loss through gaps, cracks or porous materials.
• when insulating windows, all three factors must be taken into account.

Traditional insulation methods are an affordable way to keep the heat in the room, but not always convenient. How to insulate wooden windows with improvised means? Let's consider some options.

Paper is used as a gap filler. To do this, use newspapers or toilet paper. Pre-soaked and crushed, to the degree of slurry. Next, cracks and crevices are filled with this mixture. After drying, masking tape is glued over the blocking. This option protects the room from the penetration of cold air through the gaps at the junctions of frames and sashes, but does not protect against other factors.

Slots can be filled with cotton wool, tow or foam rubber. The insulation technology is similar. The space between the double-glazed window, frame and sashes is clogged with material, excluding air ingress, after which the gaps are sealed with adhesive tape, cloth or strips of paper. But the use of this method has a bad effect on the state of the windows after dismantling. As a rule, the appearance can be restored only by staining.

One of the most popular methods is insulation with fabric strips. To do this, the cracks are filled with any insulation, for example, paper or rags. And then they are sealed with strips of fabric soaked in kefir or a cool soapy solution. This option is convenient, because in the spring such tapes are easy to dismantle and there are no traces left on the surface of the windows. To remove the strips, it is enough to wet them and wash the window.

Another cheap option is to insulate wooden windows with rubber or foam self-adhesive seals. This material is sold at any hardware store and is quite inexpensive. When installing the adhesive tape, it is necessary to pay attention to the accuracy of its placement, excluding creases and gaps. Such a heater will last you one season. In addition, traces of glue are also difficult to remove, and sometimes you have to resort to staining.

Slots in wooden windows are covered with window putty. This allows you to eliminate any gaps, even invisible to the eye, and create conditions for almost complete tightness. In this case, in addition to heat preservation, we get excellent sound insulation. This method is not recommended due to the fact that it is very difficult to clean the window afterwards.

In the case when condensation or frost appears on the glass, a heat-saving film is used, which is installed on the glass from the inside. The effect is achieved by reflecting infrared radiation and the presence of an air cushion between the glass and the structure.

Film editing is possible even for people who do not have the skill. The material is a two-layer sheet, which is separated before installation. A double-sided adhesive tape is glued to the previously cleaned and degreased surface, with the help of which the canvas is fixed. The film must be stretched, heated with a hair dryer, carefully straightened, avoiding the formation of wrinkles and bubbles. This method is a relative of insulation with polyethylene film, which is nailed to the outside of the frame.

Everyone knows how to insulate wooden windows with mounting foam. Foam is a versatile material that has firmly entered the world of repair. It has to do with practicality and affordability. With its help, you can foam cracks and crevices, chips and defects. The holes are filled with material and allowed to dry. Then the excess is removed with an ordinary construction knife.

The foam has a porous structure, which makes it possible to achieve high thermal conductivity, in addition, in the liquid state, the material fills the entire space of the gap, excluding gaps between the insulation and the window frame.

Important! The cut, located on the outside of the window, is covered with paint or plaster, since the porous texture of the material allows moisture to pass through, and crumbles under the influence of sunlight and heat.

Silicone sealant is used as a heater. This method is convenient for filling gaps between the wooden frame and the glass. Of course, this is a laborious process, but it's worth it. It can be attributed to the most effective methods of insulation. Technology: glass is removed from the frames, the frame is cleaned of dirt, dust and old paint, sealant is applied, glass is inserted and another layer of silicone is applied, after which the glass is fixed with glazing beads.

Advice! Simultaneously with the insulation process, it is recommended to carry out ongoing repairs, such as changing fasteners, sanding cracks, removing rotten areas and puttying.

It is recommended to use a colorless sealant. This will create an aesthetic appearance of the window. Silicone is a reliable way of warming, which will retain its properties for more than one season. The disadvantages include the fact that during operation the transparent strip changes color and acquires a yellowish tint, which spoils the appearance.

Innovative Methods

In recent years, the method of Swedish wooden window insulation has become increasingly popular. It is based on the same insulation using a special sealant made in Sweden (hence the name). The tape is made of a special material based on rubber and silicone. The seal is a tubular strip that is mounted into a slot in the frame.

The material has high strength, practicality and thermal conductivity. True, there is one minus - this is a high cost. In addition to the fact that the material itself is not cheap, it is almost impossible to install it yourself, since during installation the necessary work skills and specialized tools. However, if you have the necessary skills, then feel free to get down to business.

About 50% of the lost heat leaves the apartment through the windows in winter, and you can quickly, simply and inexpensively insulate yourself, so it makes complete sense to understand this issue in more detail. The primary task in this case is to insulate the windows with your own hands, but a separate section is devoted to the general insulation of the room.

It is not very reasonable to start construction and repair work for the winter, so we will consider how to insulate an apartment, in most cases without even moving the furniture. Nevertheless, the described procedures most often allow you to survive the winter with frosts of -20 in a dead block Khrushchev in sweatpants and a T-shirt, without spending too much on heating.

Heat transfer mechanisms and ways to control them

Back in school, we taught in physics that there are three mechanisms for heat transfer: direct heat transfer (thermal conduction), convection and thermal (infrared) radiation. In an overflowing apartment, all three take place:

• Thermal conductivity - through walls, windows and doors, the floor on the first floor and the ceiling on the top.
• Infrared radiation - most of all through window panes; in block Khrushchev houses with batteries in wall niches, up to 15% of heat loss is caused by radiation through the walls.
• Convection - through cracks, cracks, porous materials.

According to the mechanisms of heat loss, the methods of warming the room for the winter also differ.

Thermal conductivity

It is difficult to deal with heat transfer: in most cases, construction work is required, and external ones. When insulating from the inside, it is possible that the dew point moves inside the room, and this not only negates all efforts for the sake of comfort, but is also dangerous to health.

Read more about the insulation of the walls of the apartment and under what conditions and how this can be done from the inside.

Fortunately, most materials used in construction do not conduct heat well, and direct heat removal through building structures, even in old block houses, does not exceed 25% of the total value. Therefore, measures for walls, and ceilings can be used as additional ones, or you can do without them at all.

If such events are planned, then after insulating the windows, you should deal with the floor and corners:

1. Heat transfer from the floor will need to be transferred from convection mode to radiation mode (see the section on additional insulation below). At the same time, a thin layer of air near the walls will cool down a little, but in general it will become warmer in the room.
2. The thermal resistance of the corner is one and a half to two times less than that of a flat wall of the same thickness. Therefore, corners should be insulated, if possible, from the general heat exchange in the room in order not to be rounded - see the same section below.

Radiation

It is most difficult for heat rays to stop coming out: they are very “sneaky”, and where they seep in is not visible. However, there are simple and cheap ways to significantly reduce heat transfer by radiation; they are described below.

Infrared diagram of the outflow of heat from a private house. In a city apartment - the same weaknesses: in most cases, first of all, these are windows.

Convection

Slots in building structures to stop convection, of course, are sealed with any suitable materials. Window and door slopes (their thermal resistance is initially low, and convection occurs here even without gaps) should be additionally insulated with poorly heat-conducting materials. As for the gaps in the frames, there is an interesting way to turn convection from an enemy into a friend, it is described below in the corresponding section.

Window insulation

slopes

Insulation of windows for the winter begins with slopes. First of all, we treat them along the contour around the window frame with a primer for deep penetration concrete; Before this, it is desirable to remove the paint with a sandpaper. This will increase the thermal resistance of the concrete or brick.

For wooden houses, slopes are treated with natural drying oil in the same way. It is impossible to use water-based polymer putties, which are simply wonderful in all other cases, for this purpose: they reduce the thermal resistance of wood.

Plastic slopes

Next, we install overhead PVC slopes, see the figure on the right. It will cost inexpensively, but the thermal resistance of the “cold bridge” of the slope near the frame will increase tenfold. We fill the cavity inside the plastic slope with polyurethane foam, foam, and best of all with cheap jute or linen tow. An old stretched (dirt is a good conductor of heat) potato sack, cut into strips or loosened into threads, is perfect.

It is impossible to use mineral wool in this case categorically. First, it is harmful to health when used in this way. Secondly, moisture is quickly sucked from the air, subsides and instead of warming, it starts to cool.

glass

If you are photographing, do this experiment: remove dirty glass through an infrared filter, and then wash it clean, and take a picture again in the same way. For non-photographers, we will immediately describe the result: dirty looks only a little hazy, and clean looks silvery.

The glass itself reflects the IFC well, but the dirt on the glass, which is almost transparent to it, works like the enlightenment of photo optics: the transparency of the entire optical system for thermal radiation increases. The quirk of infrared rays.

Conclusion: for the winter, the glass needs to be washed to a creak when wiped with paper - the thinnest invisible film of dirt will do its job surreptitiously and seal it from dust.

Sealing methods will be described in the next section, because. refer to the insulation of wooden frames. Double-glazed windows in PVC windows are already tight enough.

Next, we glue the internal glass from the inside, from the side of the room, with a transparent self-adhesive. Even the crappiest self-adhesive from a Shanghai offshore shed reflects IFC better than glass, and the room will last a year for sure.

Don't bother trying to smooth out bubbles on a cheap sticker. It is enough to pierce them with a thin needle and leave them alone: ​​they will soon fall off and stick.

Windowsill

It seems that such a trifle as an incorrectly installed or damaged window sill can cause additional heat loss.

A cold bridge often forms under the windowsill. If there is a gaping crack, it is foamed. Further repairs can be postponed until spring: it will not be visible. It is advisable to obliquely attach a piece of plastic board under the windowsill, filling the cavity with the same material as in the overhead slopes. In addition to insulation, this will improve air circulation from the radiator, you just need to make sure that there is a gap of at least 6-7 cm. A rag roller, stuck to the bottom of the window sill and the wall with adhesive tape, gives a very good result. Not modern, but still not visible. And it will last until spring with repairs.

Wooden windows

Insulation of old wooden windows requires, first of all, sealing of glass and frames. Sealing locations and materials used are shown in the figure for "Swedish" windows with split frames. Regular windows do not need a dust seal, but a second frame seal will be required. In all three cases, sealing can be simplified and made cheaper.

Sealing wooden windows

sealant

It is not necessary to use expensive branded compounds for this. Liquid silicone grease or silicone for updating plastic bumpers and spoilers, sold in car dealerships and car dealerships, is perfect, and the most cheap “China” is.

Horizontal joints are dug from a pipette (it will have to be thrown away later, but it’s cheap) at the rate of 1 cm - 1 drop, and an hour later they are dug again. Vertical joints are dug starting from the upper corner: they let in a few drops one at a time until they flow into the joint, then they dig the next section, and so on to the bottom. Fresh excess sealant is removed with a cloth moistened with vinegar; frozen - cut off with a safety razor blade.

Anti-dust gasket

For her, foam rubber is suitable for one season, for several years - a rubber medical bandage or any thin rubber tape in a roll. It is only necessary to make sure that there are no gaps at the joints: through them, the window will pull dust into itself more strongly than without a gasket.

sealant

And here is where the trick comes in. There is such a phenomenon - the throttle effect. Simply, the air, squeezing through a narrow hole, heats up from internal friction - the viscosity of the air, although negligible, is finite.

Using the throttle effect for insulation is not an opening. On sale for a long time there are strips of foam rubber on an adhesive basis specifically for this purpose. Microporous insulation works like this: with a small pressure difference, air cannot seep through the foam rubber, and the sealant acts as a sealant.

With a side wind, the air from the room is almost not sucked out: turbulence in the window niches reduces the pressure difference. But the frontal, coldest wind pushes the air inward and it heats up due to the throttling effect, and the stronger, the stronger the wind. In general, the temperature in the room does not drop, but it happens that it gets warmer due to wind energy.

What then is the trick? The fact is that when buying, you need to check the suitability of foam rubber: put it on your lips and blow. A slight resistance to exhalation should be felt: if the pores in the material are too wide or closed, there will be no throttling effect.

The foam seal is short-lived: in the spring it must be removed and thrown away, and in the fall it should be compacted fresh. But it is cheap.

Slots in the frames

Slots and cracks in the frames themselves are covered with liquid nails or liquid wood. The latter is much cheaper, but it will last a season in the outer frame and 3-5 years in the inner frame.

Video: warming wooden windows with simple means

Plastic windows

The insulation of plastic windows comes down after washing the glass and, possibly, gluing the inner glass with a film, to their revision, adjustment and replacement of worn seals. The PVC window adjustment scheme is shown in the figure. Operations should be performed with a special key (sometimes supplied with the window) in the sequence of numbering on the image.

You can familiarize yourself with the technique of adjusting plastic windows in more detail.

The revision sequence is as follows:

1. check if the double-glazed window is loosened;
2. if it plays a little, no more than 0.5 mm, we dig the edge with silicone sealant. "Ersatz" will no longer work here, you need to use special acid-free compounds;
3. if it is loosened a lot, we take out and change the gaskets with spacers;
4. adjust the window to a snug fit;
5. if the adjustment limits are exhausted (see note 2), change the gasket.

Notes:

1. You can once and for all fix the double-glazed window in the frame with aquarium silicone glue, viscous and durable. Fresh excess is removed with a cloth with vinegar, frozen is cut off with a blade. But after that it is impossible to replace the double-glazed window, you will have to break it and, most likely, the frame will break.
2. When adjusting, pay attention to the position of the adjusting pins (Fig. Top right). If they turn easily to the maximum pressure position, the sealing gasket must be changed.
3. If there are visible signs of wear (shrinkage, wrinkles, cracks), the seal must be replaced in any case. It is unacceptable to push it into the groove with improvised means; you need to use a special tool (see figure below).

Video: preparing plastic windows for winter

Additional insulation

Balcony door

Seal replacement

The exit to the balcony is insulated similarly to the window. Often this is not enough, so for the winter it is advisable to hang the exit to the balcony with a thick cloth or film from top to bottom. The best result is obtained by a film on a rack or profile frame, completely covering the opening from the side of the room.

Particular attention should be paid to the threshold. Here, a fluffy or thick wicker rug will be of great benefit: a cold stream will spread to the sides and become imperceptible; the throttle effect will additionally work, only superficial.

Entrance to the apartment

The entrance opening is insulated in the same way as window openings, with one difference: instead of foam rubber door seals, good old felt ones are best suited. Foam rubber for the door is generally unsuitable. A quarter is insulated similarly to a window slope.

Ventilation

The ventilation openings cannot be closed, and blowing from them is noticeable at times. A radical way to establish proper ventilation in winter is flapper valves in vents. Without air blowing from the outside, the flapper damper will open enough to provide ventilation: in winter, due to the greater temperature difference, air circulation between housing and the street is stronger. When blowing from the outside, the damper will slam shut, but enough air will seep through the gap so that the apartment does not become stuffy.

Floor

The easiest way to insulate the floor until spring is to cover it with carpet or just carpets. Convection will move to the walls and weaken. Carpet, if you do not make "noise" and furniture, if necessary, transfer, and not move, is laid without fixing, floating.

About full-scale floor insulation.

Corners and openings

Each opening is several corners, so corners and openings are insulated in a similar way. Without repair, curtains in combination with a lambrequin are quite effective. Without a lambrequin, there will be little sense: the air behind the fabric will exit freely enough from above. The fabric should be chosen not so heavy as dense. The film is well suited: it can, without particularly spoiling the look of the room, be pulled in the corners to the walls and attached behind the furniture with adhesive tape.

Radiators

Behind the radiators, it is advisable to put heat-insulating mats made of organic fiber aluminized on both sides (not mineral wool!). Such a screen will attenuate the infrared radiation from the battery to the wall by more than 40 times. In Khrushchev with radiators in niches, thermal shielding is equivalent to plywood wall cladding.

General conclusion

Knowing the mechanisms of heat transfer from the apartment to the outside and the design features of the building, you can quickly and inexpensively insulate yourself to complete comfort even in an old block house. First of all, windows should be insulated, starting with slopes.

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Discussion:

Dmitry said:

I would not advise anyone to make large panoramic windows in an apartment or house. Beautiful in summer, cold in winter. all the same, glass is not a wall and there are not so many ways to insulate it. Despite the fact that all the corners and doors are insulated in the apartment, the space near the windows is insulated, nevertheless it blows cold from the glass. My wife rinses them to a shine for the winter, we glue them with special paper, but still we are inclined to believe that such windows were made in vain.

Anastasia said:

With the onset of cold weather, we always suffer from windows, it blows very strongly. In addition, a constant draft. Previously, windows were sealed with dampened newspapers. Now we just cut the foam rubber and close the cracks in the windows, and seal it with masking tape on top. It doesn't blow, we like it

Arkady said:

Windows are a very weak spot. Freezing is one problem. Even worse if there is a draft. Even a very small draft can make the room temperature uncomfortable. It's easy to spot it. You can explore with your hands, the space around the windows and the window sill. Found cracks can be repaired with silicone.

Maria P. said:

Last winter was terrible - all the holes blew. We went around the house wrapped in 2-3 layers of clothes. We have now decided not to let this happen. I’ll show my husband the article, let him organize a warm, cozy winter for us.
Thanks for the detailed instructions, no need to look for other sources of information.

klikoly said:

I would like to tell you about my experience in window insulation. Everyone knows the time of the year when the heating has not yet been turned on, and it is already cold in the street in winter. The temperature at this time in the apartments drops to 17-19 degrees (and this is at best). In order to somehow escape from the cold, most housewives rush to lay insulation and seal window frames. I also belonged to this majority for a long time. Have not yet tested the effectiveness of this action. I specifically measured the temperature before pasting, and then after. The difference was only 1 degree. Since then, I have become part of that happy minority that does not fuss about window insulation. Although, for the sake of justice, it must be said that I did not carry out the ENTIRE set of measures for warming the apartment described in the article. Maybe in vain. Perhaps this would give a more significant result.

With the onset of cold weather, we begin to worry about the heat preservation of the room. And as utility bills continue to rise, more and more people are turning to the issue of thermal insulation. A large percentage of heat loss falls on windows and can range from 1/3 to 1/2. This problem is faced not only by the owners of old wooden windows, but also plastic ones. To preserve heat and provide comfortable conditions, windows are sealed in various ways - some of them are temporary and will not last longer than one season, while others, more laborious, will protect windows for several years. In this article, we will look at the main causes of seal failure and how to deal with them.

Causes of violation of thermal insulation

Wooden windows are highly economical and reliable. They can last for more than one decade, but with prolonged use, their thermal insulation characteristics deteriorate: cracks, gaps appear, glass fogs up, often even frost appears. This happens for various reasons. These include drying out of wood, deformation of the structure of windows or the building itself. The drying of the wood leads to the appearance of cracks and the destruction of the wooden structure.
The deformation of the building can cause the window to warp, and its frame will not fit snugly against the wall. This will immediately lead to a strong loss of heat. Plastic windows, in comparison with wooden ones, are designed to improve thermal insulation and create comfortable conditions in the room. But not always their use will allow you to keep warm - there are a number of reasons for this. Such reasons include:

• poor quality installation
• seal defects;
• problems with double-glazed windows;
• mechanical damage.

Poor-quality installation is a common problem associated with the low qualification of the installation company's employees. It can arise not only because of the inattention of workers; errors may be made even at the measurement stage, due to which the window will not fit snugly. The seal is designed to protect against the penetration of cold into the room. In the closed position of the window, the seal fits well to the frame. But due to exposure to low temperatures, the rubber gasket wears out quickly. Double-glazed window is the main barrier to cold air. Violation of its tightness can lead to frost or condensation. The cause of mechanical damage is improper operation, which occurs from heavy loads. In this case, not only the frame structure, but also double-glazed windows and slopes may suffer. Slopes additionally help to seal the windows. Problems with them may arise due to poor installation or wear. As a result, the structure is destroyed and cracks or gaps are formed through which cold penetrates. There is a relationship between some reasons. For example, improper installation can lead to problems with slopes and double-glazed windows.

Did you know? The first double-glazed windows were created in Germany in the 19th century.

Common places to inflate

Before starting work on sealing windows, it is necessary to identify places of blowing.
Common places for blowing in wooden windows:

• windowsill;
• the junction of the window frame and sash;
• wooden frame;
• glass.

  Very often, the weak points in wooden windows are the joints of glass and glazing beads, window sashes and frames (in particular, vents that often open). It is also worth noting the vulnerability of the junction of the window frame to the opening. To determine the place of blowing in plastic windows, it is necessary to examine the inside of the window profile. If a layer of dust forms on it, then there are problems with thermal insulation in these places. The exception in this case is the upper hinge of the window profile. In this place, the formation of dust is explained by the design features. Plastic windows have the following blowing points:

  • sash perimeter;
  • windowsill;
• junction of impost and frame;
• window hinges;
• sealant.

Did you know? Through research into various radiation shielding agents, Japanese scientists have identified materials that reflect heat when applied to a glass surface.

Identification of problem areas

If examining common inflation points fails to identify the problem area, other methods can be used. The first way is to run a wet hand along the perimeter of the window, in the place of blowing there will be a feeling of a strong temperature difference. Another option is to inspect the inside of the frame, but this method is only suitable for plastic windows.
If these simple methods do not allow you to identify problem areas, then you can use the flame of a candle or lighter. If you hold a burning candle along the window frame, the junction with the slope and the window sill, the flame will begin to oscillate in places of blowing.

What and how to insulate

Window insulation measures are divided into two categories: temporary and conditionally permanent. Temporary ones are held annually with the onset of cold weather - these include warming with paper, cotton wool, foam rubber. Conditionally permanent methods include methods using mounting foam, sealant, rubber or polymer seals. Let's look at each of the methods of thermal insulation.

Newspaper (paper strips)

This method is very old, our grandmothers used it. Over time, the method of insulating windows with newspapers or paper strips has undergone some transformation, and now there are several options for its implementation. Paper putty can be made to seal window holes and seams.

It is necessary to grind paper or old newspapers, soften with water, and add clay or crushed chalk to the resulting mass. We cover the cracks with such a mass; for this it is better to use a knife or a metal ruler. Such a tool penetrates well into hard-to-reach places. Window tape or paper strips are suitable for closing this putty. You can also use strips of fabric. You can glue them with soap and water: pre-moistened strips are smeared with soap and covered with paper putty.
Another variation of this method involves warming with paper rolls. The cracks are sealed with twisted paper tubes soaked in water. The joints of the frame and glass are sealed with paper strips smeared with soap.

Important! Using tape may peel off a layer of old paint, so it may need to be repainted.

This method is very effective, but is only a temporary protection against the cold. With the onset of warm days, the insulation must be removed. But at this point, a new problem arises related to the careful removal of paper.

Energy saving film

A new trend in thermal insulation of windows is the use of energy-saving film. The principle of its action is to reflect infrared rays and reduce heat loss. Such a film in the winter will protect the house from the cold, and in the summer it will prevent the room from heating up. It is a good barrier to maintaining a comfortable climate in the house.
Such protection can be applied to the entire surface of the window, and not just to the glass, which creates additional thermal insulation. Energy-saving film is also called the "third glass". There is a film that is glued to the window frame and forms an additional protection 0.5-1 cm wide. After its installation, the temperature in the room rises by 3 or even 7 ° C. The use of this method is convenient for both plastic and wooden windows.

Styrofoam, polyurethane foam, basalt wool, foam rubber, paraffin

Other materials are also used to insulate windows. For example, foam rubber, paraffin, polystyrene or polyurethane foam. Consider the features of the application of each of these materials. The use of foam strips will help protect windows from drafts. This material easily penetrates into the gaps between the sashes and the window frame. Narrow foam strips are great for pasting window sashes around the perimeter, they fit snugly and allow you to use the window in winter.
If you stick such a sealant in several rows, this will improve the tightness of the room. Cracks larger than 2 mm can be sealed using flat foam rubber. To fill the gaps with foam rubber, use a thin and blunt object, such as a screwdriver or a table knife. After filling the cracks, they are sealed with adhesive tape, which provides additional thermal insulation. It is convenient to seal small cracks with paraffin. Using a steam bath, it is heated to 60-70 ° C - in this state it is easy to draw it into a syringe - after which the slots are filled with it.

Paraffin is an excellent draft barrier. If the gap is large enough, then use a clothesline in combination with paraffin. But such protection is enough for only one season. You can insulate wooden windows with a sealant (acrylic or silicone). These sealants are applied to the border between the glass and the frame, as well as between the window sill and the window profile. To seal window frames, it is necessary to first dismantle the glazing beads, clean the debris and apply sealant to the junction of the glass with the window frame.

It is possible to mount glazing beads only after the sealant has completely dried. It should be borne in mind that after dismantling the glazing beads, you may need new ones, since they often break. Thus, you will not only insulate the window, but also make repairs.

Important! To seal cracks in wooden windows, you can use wood putty or a mixture of gypsum and chalk. After performing insulation work, varnish and paint can be used as a topcoat. Unlike sealant or paraffin, such a coating lays down without problems.

Styrofoam can be used as slope insulation, which is used for both external and internal decoration. Before using the foam, it is necessary to pre-treat the surface: remove dirt and old mounting foam. For insulation of slopes, it is better to use sheet foam, which is convenient to use and has high thermal insulation properties. Styrofoam is glued to the slope and all cracks are sealed.
A reinforced mesh is glued onto the foam base, then plaster can be applied and painted. Basalt wool, like polystyrene, is an excellent heat-insulating material. The use of this material will allow you to insulate slopes and window sills. The advantages of this material include resistance to fire. When using this material for external insulation of slopes, additional finishing is required, since this material easily gets wet and loses its thermal insulation properties. Sometimes a simple insulation or sealant is not enough to insulate windows. For example, when there are large gaps in the window frame or see through at the junction of the window opening and the frame. In such cases, it is better to use mounting foam. With its help, you can not only insulate the slopes, but also isolate the space under the windowsill. But during prolonged contact of the mounting foam with the external environment, it worsens its insulating properties and can even partially collapse. Such insulation is a very effective and affordable solution to the problem of heat loss.

Important! For sealing, you can prepare your own putty. To do this, mix 1 part of chalk and 2 parts of building gypsum with the addition of water. This putty will be an excellent alternative to mounting foam.

The window structure can also be sealed using a tubular profile. It is characterized by high reliability and long service life, which will allow them to be classified as conditionally permanent methods of insulation. The installation of such an insulator is best done in the warm season, but it can be done with the onset of cold weather, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below -10 ° C. It is attached to the window frame with a self-adhesive strip. Such isolation is laborious, but the result will not be long in coming. The tubular sealant is used for thermal insulation of the window according to the so-called "Swedish" technology.

Before starting work on window insulation, it is necessary to determine the size of the seal. To do this, use a piece of plasticine wrapped in polyethylene. It is placed in the gap between the sash and the frame and the window is closed. Depending on the size of the gap, a tubular seal is used in sizes E, P, D. To install the seal, it is necessary to make a slot in the base frame. Fix the seal with glue. The use of this method allows you to insulate windows for 20 years, or even more.

The progress of work on the insulation of wooden and plastic windows

Each of the warming methods given above is effective. But any work carried out in the complex is much more effective than using them separately. Let's look at the procedure for sealing work.

Step 1: Replacing the seals

People who are faced with the problem of violation of the thermal insulation of windows, first of all, replace the seal. It is best to do this work in dry and warm weather. Replacing the seal on wooden windows is quite simple. But with plastic, the situation is different - the seal on them wears out after 5 years of operation. It is recommended to replace only the one that has already worn out and does not cope with its functions. In other cases, using silicone putty a couple of times a year can extend the life of the seal. To replace the rubber seal on the windows, you need to pry off the old one and pull it out. Before inserting a new seal, it is necessary to wipe the grooves from dust. A new seal must be purchased of the same thickness and preferably from the same manufacturer. A new seal is inserted into the cleaned grooves. For the convenience of performing this operation, it is recommended to remove the sash. Thus, the seal on the sashes and the window frame is replaced. To change the rubber gasket that protects the double-glazed unit, it is necessary to perform more complex and time-consuming operations.

Important! Seals from different manufacturers have a different structure, and may also differ in color.

First, remove the glazing beads that hold the double-glazed window. Now you can easily remove the glass and pull the seal out of the grooves. Just as when replacing the seal on the sashes, the grooves must be cleaned. It is recommended to cut off the rubber gasket with a margin of 6 cm, in which case it will fit snugly around the entire perimeter of the double-glazed window. The new seal is placed in the grooves, after which you can collect everything back. For additional fixation of the seal, you can use glue.

Step 2: Pressure Adjustment (new designs only)

For many, this feature in plastic windows may seem like a novelty, but manufacturers recommend adjusting the pressure 2 times a year. It has to be different for every season. To make this adjustment, you will need a 4mm hex wrench or pliers, depending on the design of the window. At the end of the sash there is an eccentric with a risk, which is required. An eccentric is a device for adjusting the fit of the sash to the window frame. In plastic structures, it is possible to set winter and summer modes, as well as the average one, which is set by default.

By rotating the eccentric, you can adjust the tightness of the flaps. Using the winter mode allows you to keep warm in the room due to a tighter fit. And with the onset of warm days, the windows are switched to summer mode, which allows you to increase air circulation. In some cases, such an adjustment is not enough, therefore, an additional adjustment of the loops is carried out. If winter ventilation is provided for in the window design, then both the lower and upper hinges are adjusted. And in cases where such a function is not provided, it is enough just to adjust the lower hinges. To make these settings, you need to open a window. In the open position, move the sash to the ventilation position. Only in this position can the top hinge be adjusted. By turning the adjusting screw, you can change the fit of the sash to the frame.

Step 3: Insulation of slopes

A variety of materials can be used to insulate slopes. The most popular of them: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and a sealant with a polyvinyl chloride layer. All of them provide good thermal insulation. Before deciding on the material for sealing, it is necessary to examine the external and internal slopes. Poorly performed work or wear of the material can lead to the fact that the thermal insulation of the room is broken. In such a situation, before starting the insulation, it is necessary to remove the old material and install the slopes again. Thermal liners can be used to insulate slopes from the inside. After their careful fixation and strengthening, the slopes are cosmetically finished. Basalt wool can be used as such liners. Another option is to stick foam on the inner surface of the slopes. Then it should be puttied or covered with drywall.

Did you know? There is a myth that thermal insulation materials repel mice, but such materials do not exist.

Another way of finishing and sealing is the installation of so-called "sandwich panels". Such a panel already has a heat-insulating layer, which makes them a convenient option for slope insulation. For additional sealing, a layer of cotton wool can be used as the basis for the sandwich panel. An important point in the process of slope insulation is the inadmissibility of the presence of air gaps.
To avoid this problem, you can use special adhesives. They are applied around the perimeter of the treated surface, as well as on the seams. Properly applied adhesive promotes good adhesion to the slope surface.

Step 4: Working on the window sill

Another problem area in window insulation is the window sill. Poor quality of its installation can lead to big problems during operation. For example, if the space under the window sill is not sufficiently filled with mounting foam, air pockets can form there that violate the thermal insulation. Another problem is the destruction of the foam under the influence of mechanical loads or thermal factors.

Important! When installing window structures in winter, you need to use the so-called "winter" mounting foam, which provides better sealing.

In such situations, re-sealing with mounting foam is required. To carry out such work, it is first necessary to remove the old foam, and then fill the space with a new layer. But such material does not allow closing small gaps. You can seal them with sealant. It penetrates well into the cracks and completely seals them. In addition, it repels water well. The combination of such materials will close all problem areas.

Step 5: Paste the glass

Sometimes after eliminating all problems, heat loss remains at a fairly high level. In such cases, glass is pasted over to provide thermal insulation. Various materials can be used for this. For example, for better protection against exposure to low temperatures, you can paste over the junction of the glass and the frame with tape. An energy-saving film can also be used as a heater for glass.

Packaging film, or, as it is also called, bubble film, can also be used to insulate windows. Such a film can be bought at any hardware store. It helps to protect the house from the cold and improves the energy efficiency of the building. It takes very little time to install, and subsequently it does not require special care. The film can be repeatedly glued and peeled off. Such a seal does not prevent the ingress of sunlight.
For installation, you will need scissors, a spray gun and a film with bubbles. We cut the film to the size of the glass and wet its flat side. We apply the film with the wet side on the abundantly moistened glass. Water provides good adhesion to the surface. The applied film is well leveled. Such a heater helps to protect the glass from unnecessary heat loss, and most importantly, it is a very convenient and economical method. The use of the film leaves no traces, which makes it easier to care for the window after removing the seal.

Step 6: Warming from the outside

From the outside of the building, slopes and low tide are insulated. The lack of thermal insulation of external slopes will not allow you to reliably protect windows from drafts and cold. For thermal insulation of external slopes, foam plastic 5 cm thick and a mounting grid are used. Finishing slopes from the outside is often accompanied by complete insulation of the building, but this work can be carried out separately.

Important! The foam should cover part of the window frame and completely cover the mounting seam.

In the process of performing such work, pre-prepared foam strips are tightly glued to the previously cleaned surface. At the end of such work, the foam must be plastered, which will protect it from further destruction. When performing thermal insulation work, it must be remembered that for the correct distribution of light in the room, the slopes must have a developed angle with respect to the window.
Drainage is a very important point for ensuring the tightness of the window. To prevent moisture from accumulating, the slope should have a bevel of 5 ° and protrude from the building by 4 cm, and the side edges should be bent upwards. This shape will allow water to flow freely without penetrating under the ebb. For additional protection against moisture, the places where the tide is attached to the window and slopes are additionally sealed.

How to stick a heat-insulating film

Such protection, due to its multilayer structure, has a low heat transfer coefficient. The energy-saving effect is provided by the air gap. Protection of 15 microns allows you to increase the temperature in the room by 3 ° C. For installation, you will need a knife, scissors and a hair dryer. For wooden structures, the film can be applied both to the entire surface of the window, and only to the glass. If you stick it on the entire surface of the window frame, then it is necessary to seal the cracks, and for the convenience of work, remove the handles. Windows must first be thoroughly washed and degreased.

A double-sided adhesive tape is glued to a clean surface around the perimeter. The film is folded in two layers, so you need to separate them. We cut the film to the size of the window. It must be borne in mind that the film must be glued to the adhesive tape, so it is worth making a margin of 2 cm. Before gluing, we check the correctness of the measurements. If all measurements are correct, then you can remove the protective paper strip from the double-sided tape. You will need help to move forward. Gently distribute the film over the entire surface of the window and glue around the entire perimeter. At the moment, you can ignore the wrinkles that form. When gluing, do not stretch the film too much, as it has a heat-shrinkable structure. Use a hair dryer to smooth out wrinkles. Under the influence of hot air, the film is smoothed and settles. Another option for sealing windows is to stick the film directly on the glass surface. In this case, the double-glazed window is removed from the frame, after which it can be applied to the window. It has a different coating of the sides, one of them is metallized. helped

A third or even half (depending on the area of ​​​​glazing) of heat loss in the house falls on the windows, so with the approach of cold weather, you need to take care of thermal insulation. Consider effective and inexpensive ways to properly insulate old wooden windows for the winter with your own hands.

Despite the widespread replacement of wooden windows with plastic and metal-plastic ones, they retain a part of the market. Despite the fact that in terms of heat-saving properties, PVC windows are more preferable, a number of users, for various reasons, continue to use old wooden windows.

There are several explanations for this fact:

• the high cost of plastic windows (which may also require insulation);

• environmental friendliness of wooden windows and their ability to maintain an optimal microclimate in the room due to natural ventilation;

• there is no desire to make repairs after replacing windows;

• distrust of plastic structures;

• accommodation in a hostel or rented apartment;

• the need to insulate windows at work, in educational institutions, etc.

With all the advantages of wooden windows, they do not meet modern requirements for energy efficiency and heat saving (with the exception of wooden windows with double-glazed windows). So the owner has to think about how to insulate wooden windows so as not to blow.

Any insulation of old wooden windows provides for blockage (sealing, putty) of all cracks that can potentially be a source of heat loss.

Due to the fact that wooden windows have been in operation for more than one century, and users have always faced a lack of tightness, they have invented a lot of ways to insulate and. After all, heat loss through a window exceeds heat loss through a wall of a similar area, which means it will be right to find out how to insulate wooden windows for the winter.

How to start window insulation

Work begins with finding out the place of blowing. In the case of wooden windows, these include:

• slopes (external and internal), incl. beams to strengthen the opening;
• ebbs and window sills;
• junction of the sash to the window frame;
• frame wood;
• glass.

How to insulate wooden windows for the winter with your own hands

To begin with, we note that all existing methods of insulation can be divided into two directions - external and internal, which means that the technology of warming wooden windows will be considered in two directions.

1. Insulation of wooden windows for the winter outside

External insulation is carried out from the outside of the window, from the street. It is much easier to perform this type of work in a private house than in a multi-storey one. However, in the apartment and in the house, the following options are available for execution:

Insulation of window slopes from the outside

Thermal insulation of window slopes is a mandatory step, since insulation from the inside does not exclude the possibility of heat loss from the street. As a heater, polyurethane foam or rigid insulation is used.

How to insulate slopes from the street:

• inspect the window along the perimeter of the frame, remove all elements that do not adhere well (old putty, mounting foam, insulation, plaster, paint, etc.);

• prime the surface of the slopes;

• blow out all the cracks with mounting foam and / or stick the foam on the slope. In the process of installing the foam, you need to make sure that the sheet goes on the frame;

• if only foam was used, it must be cut off after complete solidification and sealed with plaster. If foam plastic was used, it must be covered with a polymer mesh, a perforated tape should be installed in the corners and the slope should be plastered;

• after the plaster has completely dried, the slope is primed and painted.

Note. External insulation works are carried out at temperatures up to +5 °C. At low temperatures, foam and adhesive mixtures lose some of their characteristics and properties.

Window flashing insulation

Low tide is the lower part of the slope. Here it is recommended to blow out all the cracks with mounting foam and install a low tide bar on top. It is necessary to provide an opportunity to drain water down (the ebb bar is set at an angle), wrap the side edges up to avoid water leakage, bring the bar 20-30 mm beyond the edge of the masonry, seal all joints of the bar and the slope or frame with sealant.

Elimination of gaps

Do not forget that wood is a breathable and non-hygroscopic material, so the outside of the window needs to be painted or varnished.

Advice. If peeling of the existing paintwork is planned, it must be removed with a building hair dryer and a new layer applied.

2. Insulation of wooden windows for the winter from the inside

Consider the main methods of internal window insulation (thermal insulation from the side of the room), which can be conditionally divided into temporary and conditionally permanent. The first group of activities includes those that are performed during the cold season and are cleaned in the spring by washing frames and windows. To the second - those that ensure the tightness of windows for a long period.

How to insulate old windows

1. paper;
2. cotton wool;
3. foam rubber;
4. rubber or polymer seals;
5. mounting foam;
6. acrylic or silicone sealant;
7. hard or soft insulation;
8. paraffin, alabaster, etc.

How to insulate wooden windows with paper

This is the first option that comes to mind if you need to quickly and inexpensively insulate old windows. Of course, the aesthetics of the window suffers from this method, but the level of tightness is quite high. The material was prepared for the site www.site

To make paper putty, you need to grind paper (it is better to take old newspapers), soak it in water, wring it out, add 1 part of clay or 2 parts of crushed chalk to the mass, and seal all the cracks with the resulting mass. The putty is plastic and easily clogged even in small cracks. To apply the mass, a knife, screwdriver, metal ruler or other suitable tool is used.

To cover the paper putty, window tape or special paper with adhesive properties (such as masking tape), window tape or fabric strips are usually used. Cloth and paper are smeared with soap dipped in water and glued over the cracks.

The insulation is kept until the onset of heat, and then removed. At the same time, unattractive streaks remain on the window that need to be washed off.

Note. If the decorative coating on the window does not hold well, you need to be prepared for the fact that some part of it will be removed along with adhesive tape or paper and painting will be required.

How to insulate wooden windows with wool

The method is similar to the first, but instead of paper putty, cotton wool is used, which is also covered with strips of paper / fabric.

How to stick paper on windows - video

Insulation of windows with a sealant (regular or tubular foam rubber)

Ordinary foam rubber is placed between the frame doors and closed. Foam rubber is distinguished by its low price and availability. As well as the possibility of reuse next season.

The tubular foam rubber is glued to the sash of the window frame from the inside with adhesive tape. The advantage of this method is the ability to use the window - open / close (for example, ventilate the room). The seal is securely held on the sash and does not interfere with the operation of the window. In addition, it can be glued in several rows, which increases the tightness of the fit of the window sash to the frame.

A good option is a self-adhesive window tape made of rubber, polyurethane or polyethylene foam, made in the form of adhesive-backed tubes.

The choice of sealant depends on the temperature, the quality of the material, the size of the gaps. Learn more about window seals in the video

Insulation of wooden windows using Swedish technology

This is one of the effective ways of insulation using a sealant. The difference lies in the technology of its installation. In this case, before installing the seal, you need to make a groove in the frame and place the seal in it.

As you can see, the Swedish technology is, in fact, a partial restoration of a wooden window. And, in terms of their heat-saving properties, ordinary wooden frames are close to metal-plastic ones.