Mechanical temperature controllers for heating batteries. How to install a thermostat on a heating radiator

To ensure the optimal temperature regime in the room and optimize the cost of utility bills, it is necessary to regulate the rate of flow of the coolant into the radiator. Thermostats for heating batteries do an excellent job with this task.

Consider the features of the operation and installation of various types of thermostats, determine the main criteria for choosing a high-quality, reliable battery thermostat.

The need to use a battery thermostat

When arranging a heating system, many people ask themselves the question: “Do I need a thermostat for a battery?”. Today, when the bills for the heat consumed by the population are steadily increasing, the answer is unequivocal: “Yes”.

Very often residents multi-storey buildings forced to open the vents in winter time to reduce heat from hot batteries. The energy of the coolant is spent irrationally. This is especially noticeable for those who have heat meters installed.

The thermostat (thermostat) of heating batteries is a device that controls the microclimate in the room. Some models have the ability to program the temperature mode on different time days (day/night) and every single day.

Use in conjunction with a thermostat with a heat meter - effective method reduce space heating costs

To additional benefits thermostats for batteries include:

The purchase and installation of a battery thermostat in private houses and cottages pays off in one heating season

Installing a thermostat for radiators in heating apartments is especially relevant for rooms with significant temperature fluctuations: kitchen, living room and "sunny" rooms.

Types of thermostats: device and principle of operation

Consider the classification of thermostats for batteries according to two main criteria:

1. According to the principle of regulation:
   • mechanical;
   • automatic.
2. According to the type of working substance of the thermal head:
   • gas-filled;
   • liquid.

Mechanical thermostats

The mechanical thermostat for the battery consists of two main parts:

• thermostatic valve;
• high sensitivity element (thermal head).

The mechanism works smoothly and reliably without attracting energy from outside. The composition of the thermal head includes: a regulator, a drive, as well as a gas or liquid working element.

Operating principle mechanical thermostat next:

1. Under the influence of temperature, the volume of the coolant changes in heating system.
2. The bellows perceives the changes that have occurred and moves the control spool. The movement of the spool is associated with any change in room temperature.

The sensitive element (liquid, gas) reacts by moving the rod - such a change in stroke allows you to regulate and control the supply of coolant to the radiator.

The operation of the thermostat can be affected by various factors:

• draft or ventilation of the room;
• outdoor temperature;
• sunlight;
• the presence of other sources of heat or cold near the thermostat (refrigerator, heater, hot water pipeline).

Electronic thermostats

Electronic thermostats are programmable microprocessor devices for adjusting and maintaining the temperature regime of housing. The thermostat automatically controls the elements of the heating system (pump, boiler, mixer). It is enough for the consumer to set the desired temperature, and the built-in sensor will regulate it throughout the entire heating season.

The main element of the electronic temperature controller is a temperature sensor that transmits information about the temperature indicators of the zone in which it is installed. The thermostat reacts to the information and optimizes the mode to the set temperature.

Digital thermostats with closed and open logic are widely used.

Electronic thermostats with closed logic have a constant, clearly defined algorithm of work, which does not depend on the environment. You can control only the main parameters. For domestic use this thermostat is enough.

Electronic thermostats with open logic have free programming and are able to adapt to any system in which it will be used. More often, such devices are used in industrial areas, since programming and changing settings takes a lot of time and must be performed by highly qualified specialists.

In everyday life are often used and ordinary electronic thermostats , similar to mechanical counterparts, but with an electronic display. They operate in simple mode. For their operation, it is enough to set the temperature, which will be constantly maintained, or set the allowable range of temperature fluctuations.

Electronic thermostats are battery operated and come with a charger.

Liquid and gas-filled thermostats

The working medium of a thermal head is usually a gas or liquid (paraffin). I must say that the cheaper and more common are liquid thermostats. However, gas-filled thermostats respond more accurately and faster to changes in pressure inside the bellows.

Advantages of the design of a gas-filled thermostat:

• gas condensation occurs in the cooled part of the device, remote from the valve body, so the operation of the thermostat does not depend on the temperature of the water (heat carrier);
• The thermostat is very sensitive to temperature fluctuations in the room, which allows you to effectively control heat gain.

Installation of thermostats on radiators

Thermostat installation diagrams for one- and two-pipe heating systems

When installing a thermostat on a battery in a single-pipe system, you will have to change the radiator connection diagram and install an additional jumper - a bypass.

The bypass will connect the direct and return supply of the coolant. This will allow the coolant to run during the shutdown of the battery. In addition, it will be possible to dismantle the radiator - just close the valves (3 and 4 in the figure).

In a two-pipe heating system, the thermostat is installed on the upper supply pipe, and a valve is mounted on the lower one.

Explanation of designations:

• supply riser;
• battery;
• mechanical or electronic thermostat;
• bottom valve;
• air vent;
• bypass (jumper);
• reverse riser;
• plug.

Rules for competent installation

The thermostat will work smoothly and efficiently if it is installed correctly, in compliance with all the rules:

The sequence of mounting the thermostat on the battery

Consider the installation of a thermostat on a heating battery in stages:

The bypass diameter must be one size smaller than the diameter of the supply pipes. For example, for a ¾ inch pipeline, the diameter of the termination section should be ½ inch

Setting the thermostat

After installation, the mechanical thermostat must be adjusted - set the optimum temperature in the room. To do this, the following steps are performed:

AT electronic thermostats just set the desired temperature on the display. If the functionality allows, you can choose the temperature regime for daytime and nighttime, for different days of the week, for example, intensive heating of the room on weekends, and economical heating on weekdays. This mode is optimal for country houses and dachas, where the owners appear only for the weekend.

In order to buy a thermostat for a heating battery and not regret your purchase over time, you need to take a responsible approach to choosing a thermostat and take into account some important points:

Especially effective, from an economic point of view, the use of battery thermostats in private houses and cottages with autonomous heating, in apartments with a centralized supply of coolant, the use of thermostats improves the microclimate of the room by setting a more comfortable temperature regime.

In modern heating systems that involve the distribution of underfloor heating, special heating temperature controllers for radiators are installed. The main function of these devices is to change the degree of heating of the room by changing the volume of coolant that passes through the radiators. Correctly used and installed regulators can increase the efficiency of the heating system.

Structural elements

Outwardly, the regulator resembles the most common tap installed at the inlet or outlet of pipelines from radiators, however, instead of a classic valve, these devices are equipped with a quick-release nut, with which a thermoelement is attached to the body.

Heating temperature controllers for radiators and similar control devices for heating appliances usually consist of two main systems:

A thermostatic valve is required to effectively control the transfer of heat from a heating appliance. At the same time, its amount that passes through the radiator must constantly change depending on the room temperature.

Regulator Features

For heating batteries, they work in automatic mode. At first, it is only necessary to determine the required degree of heating of the heater using a graduated scale located on the thermal head.

Modern regulators function in such a way that they never shut off the coolant supply to the radiators, but only reduce or increase it depending on the room temperature.

The valve is a device that provides fine control over the heating of the heater. When determining the temperature regime in the room, the error will be minimal. How to regulate the temperature of the heating battery correctly will be discussed below.

Principle of operation

One of the key parts of the thermostatic valve is the stem, which is equipped with a rubber seal. This rod is movable, it can rise and fall, while changing the diameter of the hole through which the coolant enters the radiator.

When the valves are opened, a large volume of liquid will begin to circulate in the heaters, and they will begin to heat more strongly. A radiator temperature regulator with a lowered rod will reduce the amount of coolant passing through. For the heater, this means less intensive heating.

Main types

Heating batteries can be of the following types:

1. Devices with mechanical adjustment of the flow rate of the liquid passing through the valve.
2. Devices with a thermostatic head controlled by a bellows.
3. Devices with a thermostatic head controlled by a remote thermostatic sensor.

All three types of this equipment can be combined on one basis - the presence of a thermostatic valve. It is located at the bottom of the structure. The main difference lies in the thermal head.

There is a special scale on the valve head. Thanks to these numbers, you can set the desired temperature.

Main types

To date, heating temperature controllers are used for radiators of the following types:

The regulator, which is installed in a two-pipe system, is usually calculated in such a way that it does not go out of operation during pressure drops. This is due to the fact that balancing is carried out through losses near the valve. To overcome this problem, the radiator temperature controller is equipped with a small flow area and a large hydraulic resistance.

Installation Features

It is worth noting that heaters controlled by thermostats can create completely new conditions for the heating system. For example, after long-term cold weather, the temperature finally became a few degrees higher. Accordingly, the heat loss in the room became less.

This information is unambiguously perceived by heating temperature controllers for radiators as a signal to shut off the coolant. In this case, its consumption falls, and then gradually tends to zero. Accordingly, the pressure in the heat pipe begins to gradually increase. To prevent discomfort, in such situations, designers install in the system immediately after the circulation pump.

Temperature in heating batteries: norms

The heating system must work in such a way that the rooms are comfortable. As a rule, the temperature regime is regulated. For example, in kindergartens and hospitals it is 21 degrees Celsius, in residential buildings - 18 degrees Celsius. However, depending on the temperature outside, the room loses air currents during ventilation and through enclosing structures, different amounts of heat. Heating of the coolant in the heating system, depending on external factors, can vary within fairly wide limits. The temperature in radiators (standards prohibit 90 degrees Celsius due to the decomposition of paintwork and dust) can be from 30 to 90 degrees Celsius.

It is necessary to use schedules designed specifically for each building. They express the dependence of the outdoor temperature on the parameters of the coolant. Also applies automatic regulation according to the sensor.

In order for the temperature of the radiators to be optimal and the regulation to be correct, you should use high-quality equipment and have information on how this is done correctly.

Regulation instruction

The procedure for setting the heating is carried out during the installation of thermostats and radiators. However, not everyone knows how to regulate the temperature of the heating battery.

So, self-regulation heating devices is as follows:

1. A tap is attached to each device, which allows precise and at the same time smooth adjustment. In this case, the use of ball valves is not allowed.
2. First of all, it is necessary to open all available locking devices and select the coldest room. In the selected room, you will need to continue all further actions.
3. After that, the valve opens completely.
4. To simplify the temperature control procedure for each individual room, you should purchase a separate thermometer (heat sensor) and install it.
5. With the help of a thermostat, the boiler heats up to the required temperature. You also need to pay attention to the aspect that cold rooms need to be warmed up a little more than others.
6. As soon as the temperature is normalized in the coldest rooms, it will be possible to move on to other rooms and perform similar actions using the regulator. To do this, you should screw on the taps on the heaters so that the air can be heated further. As soon as the required thermal regime is created, it is necessary to set the temperature on the boiler.

Conclusion

So, now you know how to regulate the temperature of the heating battery correctly. However, in order for the regulation to be of really high quality, it is necessary to purchase good thermostats from well-known manufacturers. Then the heating system will serve for many years.

To install a thermostat, it is preferable to seek help from qualified specialists who have been professionally engaged in this business for a long time in order to prevent serious troubles in the future. You can get advice about the equipment you have chosen in any specialized store.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

The old-style heating system does not always provide uniform heating of all rooms. In some it may be too hot, in others - on the contrary, it is cool so that you have to dress. To create a comfortable temperature in each room, you should perform a simple upgrade: install a thermostat on the radiator.

Why do you need a thermostat?

The temperature regulator, installed on radiators, allows you to control the amount of heat entering a particular room by increasing or decreasing the flow of the liquid coolant. With it, you can not only set a comfortable temperature in each room, but also save money if the apartment is equipped with a heat meter.

In apartment buildings, when the temperature in the room is too high, the owners are forced to open the windows, while heating the street. If you have to pay for heat in accordance with the standards, as often happens in Khrushchev houses, then this is not so scary. But in the presence of heat meters, the money of residents literally fly out the window. And another situation: there is no point in full program heat the apartment when no one is at home.

The position of owners of autonomous heating systems is more advantageous. They can regulate the heat supply to the apartment at the exit from the boiler. But without the use of thermostats, it will not be possible to ensure a comfortable temperature regime in all rooms.

Why a thermostat?

In addition to the thermostat, it is possible to limit the flow of coolant into the battery using a ball valve or cone valve. But their use is associated with significant inconveniences:

• designed for operation in only two modes: open or closed. When working in intermediate positions, it will quickly fail.
• Regulate the flow warm water both devices need to be done manually and quite often. At in large numbers The rooms are long and uncomfortable.

Installing thermostats on heating radiators will solve this problem. The thermostat after installation and adjustment will automatically maintain the set temperature, regulating the flow hot water into the battery.

With cast iron radiators more difficult. Due to the high thermal inertia of the material (cast iron heats up slowly and cools down just as slowly), it will not be possible to quickly and accurately adjust the temperature.

Device and types of thermostats

The thermostat is selected based on the size of the pipe attached to the device and the type of heating:

1. Valves marked RTD-G are designed for installation in single-pipe systems with natural circulation.
2. Devices marked RTD-N are used in two-pipe systems. They are also necessary if a pump is installed for forced circulation of the coolant.

More information about all types of devices designed to adjust the temperature of radiators is written in. There you can find ways to increase the heat transfer of batteries.

Choice of places for installation of thermostats

The operation of these devices is badly affected by:

• Direct sunlight.
• Appliances that generate heat during operation.
• Difficult air circulation: the thermostat must not be covered with curtains, curtains and decorative grilles.

It is not always possible to install thermostats on all heating radiators in an apartment. Where to put them in the first place in this case:

• In private high-rise buildings- on the batteries on the upper tiers. The warm air in the room rises, so the temperature on the second and third floors will be higher than on the first.
• in apartments and one-story houses first of all, thermostats are placed on batteries located closer to the heating boiler.

If access to the device is difficult, it is closed by interior items, then choose a product with a remote temperature sensor.

Installing a thermostat

It is important not only to choose the right model, but also to put it correctly. The heating system must continue to operate when the supply of coolant to the radiator is interrupted. For this:

• In a single-pipe system, a special jumper is additionally connected - a bypass. The valve is mounted on the top pipe. To replace or repair the battery or thermostat, install on the upper and lower pipes Ball Valves.
• In a two-pipe system, only shut-off valves at the inlet and outlet of the radiator are sufficient.

Due to their low cost and simplicity, bellows thermostats are the most commonly used. They are installed as follows:

• The device is guided by the arrow marked on its body. It shows the direction of movement of the coolant. First, its fixed part is mounted, on which the rotating head is then put on.
• The valve is attached to the supply pipe with the help of an “American” (coupling with a union nut): it is easier to remove it if necessary.

The valve must be installed horizontally! Otherwise, warm air rising from the pipe will heat the bellows, which will lead to incorrect operation of the device.

• Connection to the battery is carried out by means of a threaded connection. Tightness is achieved with sanitary flax or special sealing tape.
• After removing the protective cap, install the bellows head. It is fixed with a nut, which is tightened with a spanner wrench. Another option is snap-on heads. They can be easily put on by turning to the maximum opening position and pushing until you hear a click.

At the final stage, the piping is assembled to the end and the entire system is checked for leaks by filling it with coolant.

The installation steps are shown in the video.

Content

The question of how to install a thermostat on a battery is of interest to both people living in apartment buildings and owners of private housing with autonomous system heating. The temperature control device allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises, and in the second case, it also saves energy costs.

It makes sense to put the thermostat on batteries of any type, with the exception of cast iron ones - they are characterized by high thermal inertia, which makes the adjustment ineffective.

Thermostat for heating battery

Adjustment features

The heating of the radiator occurs due to the circulation of the liquid heated by the heating boiler. The heat carrier gives a significant part of the thermal energy to the heating device, which provides heating of the air in the room.

The less hot liquid passes through the battery per unit time, the weaker it will heat up. The principle of quantitative adjustment is the basis for the functioning of the thermostat. Before the invention of the thermostatic valve, a plumbing valve was used for this purpose.

Note! The ball valve is designed to work in only two positions - fully open and fully closed. When using a ball valve as a valve to regulate the flow of coolant, it will quickly fail.

The principle of operation of a modern thermostatic valve is the same as that of a valve - a special device in the housing limits or completely blocks the flow of the coolant. The main difference lies in the principles of control - in the case of using a plumbing valve, the temperature of the batteries has to be adjusted by turning the knob, while the thermostat for a heating radiator works without human intervention, it is enough to install and configure it correctly.

Thermostat design

The thermostat is a valve equipped with a thermal head that controls its operation.

The valves differ in the design of the body, depending on the characteristics of the installation site, the valve is used:

• standard straight;
• angular horizontal;
• angular vertical;
• angular, in which the head and nozzles are located along three perpendicular axes (left and right versions).

Note! Valves for a one-pipe heating system (marked with the letter G) are characterized by increased throughput, because of which their body has a larger volume. They are also suitable for two-pipe systems with natural circulation. If the system is equipped with a pump for forced circulation of the coolant, valves marked with the letters N or D are required, they are designed for high pressure.

The corrosion resistant alloy body has a valve seat that can be fully closed by the poppet valve when it is fully lowered. When the height of the plate is changed, the amount of fluid passing through the valve per unit time changes.

The poppet is mounted on a stem, which is actuated by a pusher pin, its upper part protrudes from the valve body. As standard, the pin is covered with a cap. It is removed and the selected valve control mechanism is installed.

Important! It is recommended to install valves made of brass, stainless steel, bronze. Silumin is fragile and unreliable. When choosing a product, also pay attention to the mounting dimensions of the nozzles - they must correspond to the parameters of the pipeline.

Choice of control mechanism

The thermostat for radiators must be equipped with a suitable control mechanism:

• locking handle;
• bellows type thermal head;
• servo head;
• electronic thermal head.

Locking handle

It turns the thermostat into a regular valve. The handle is usually used when it is necessary to securely close the valve for carrying out repair work or to replace the heating device. It can be considered as a removable auxiliary attribute.

Thermo head with bellows

Looking at the disassembled thermostat, you can see a bellows - an elastic container filled with a liquid or gas with high thermal sensitivity. If the air temperature in the area of ​​the thermal head rises, the bellows expands and presses on the pusher pin, causing the poppet valve to move down. When the bellows is cooled, the process is reversed. The thermostat of this type installed on the radiator is non-volatile, it is enough to set it once, and the heating level of the battery will be maintained automatically with a fairly high accuracy.

Servo head

The valve stem moves up or down a miniature electric motor, which receives the appropriate signals from the electronic control unit. Such a system allows for very precise control of the heating of the coolant. The installation requires cabling for motor power and control signals. The device is suitable for use as part of the "smart home" complex.

Electronic thermal head

The heater, equipped with an electronic thermal head, changes the heating level of the room depending on the set program. For example, work during the day in an economical mode and heat the air to the desired values ​​​​by the arrival of the owners of the house from work. Such a thermal head with an electronic display works autonomously, batteries provide power.

Installing a thermostat on a heating radiator

Consider how to mount and configure a bellows thermal head - this is the most popular option due to its affordable cost.

Most thermal valves in the upper part have a thread for the M30x15 nut - it is with its help that an automatic mechanical thermal head is installed. Its fixed part is attached to the valve body, and the upper part rotates freely around its axis. Holes are provided in the plastic head to allow air to enter the bellows, causing it to contract or expand.

The installation of the thermal valve is carried out at the stage of connecting the heating radiator to the pipeline. It is placed on the supply pipe, fixed with an “American” adapter - such a connection is easy to disassemble if necessary. The direction of the coolant flow is indicated on the body of the device - this must be taken into account. Before installation, study the product passport - if the thermal valve does not have the function of completely blocking the flow, a ball valve must be installed on the supply pipe before it.

Note! The thermal head must be located horizontally, otherwise the heated air rising from the radiator will constantly affect the bellows.

The valve is connected to the battery with a free pipe. Then the protective cap is removed from the thermal valve and the bellows thermal head is installed by tightening the corresponding nut with a spanner wrench. If the model provides for snap-in installation, the head must be turned to the “max” position, attached and pressed until it clicks.

After installation, adjustment is carried out. The position of the stem, pusher pin and bellows relative to the body of the thermal valve can be changed by rotating the moving part of the head. It has a temperature scale and a mark for reference, which makes it possible to set the required temperature to the nearest degree. A suitable battery mode is determined by practice.

Important! Manufacturers of thermal heads offer various options for presetting - using pins or a special key, immediately after installation, the permissible temperature range of the radiator is set. This avoids the problems associated with overheating of the premises or the complete cooling of the system as a result of the intervention of small children or due to accidental contact with the moving part of the thermal head.

There are different versions of the thermal head.
If the radiator is blocked by thick curtains, furniture or structures, when installing the regulator, you can use a thermal head with a remote sensor-probe. The sensor, connected to the bellows by a capillary tube, is placed up to 2 meters from the battery.

The thermostat for the heating battery can also be equipped with a remote control panel that can be mounted in any convenient place. This model is equipped with two bellows (on the valve and in the control panel) connected by a capillary tube.

Installation of a thermostat is not difficult to do on your own when it comes to an autonomous heating system. In a house with central heating, this is possible in a situation where a ball valve is installed on the supply pipe after the bypass. Otherwise, it is required to call specialists and agree on a temporary shutdown of the coolant supply through the riser.

In a well-planned, well-installed and well-adjusted heating system, everything must work so that even on the most adverse weather days, the generated heat would be sufficient to maintain optimal microclimate indoors, but at the same time - thermal energy was not wasted when the need for its quantity decreases. The bragging of some owners, who say that they have such good heating that they do not close the windows even in the most severe frosts, is puzzling - it is so hot in the rooms. Meanwhile, this is a typical example of an absolutely inefficient use of energy (and, ultimately, Money), and there is certainly nothing to brag about. And if we add to this the drafts walking around the rooms, which are not particularly beneficial for health, the picture turns out to be completely bleak.

The problem is solved quite simply - you need to install a thermostat for a heating radiator. This very compact and, in principle, inexpensive device will help maintain the set temperature in the room, regardless of the weather outside and the time of day, and such adjustment will be carried out automatically, without constant human intervention. Any owner who has basic skills in plumbing installation should be able to install a thermostat. Low costs, a couple of hours of work - and a pleasant microclimate sets in in your house, the countdown of the saved funds for energy carriers begins.

When designing a heating system, starting from a boiler and ending with heat exchange devices (radiators or convectors), specialists proceed from a number of evaluation criteria that take into account the specifics of the construction region, the location of the building on the ground, the nuances of its design, the layout of both the entire house and each of premises separately. The result of such calculations is the value of the thermal power of the boiler and the layout of the radiators in the rooms.

Try to do the calculations yourself

Similar thermal calculations can be carried out on your own, according to a somewhat simplified, but very accurate algorithm. The procedure for carrying out calculations and are placed in the appendix to this publication.

It should be understood correctly - these calculations give a result with a fair operational margin, that is, calculated for the most unfavorable conditions, for the lowest temperatures outside the window.

But think for yourself, how long are the "Epiphany frosts" on the street? - usually the peak of winter cold falls on a ten-day week - another. The rest of the time it is much warmer, and often in winter it comes to outright thaws. An even greater contrast between the calculated heat output and the actual demand in it is shown by the “off-season periods” - the end of autumn and the beginning of spring.

Further, even during the day, at night and daytime, the amplitude of temperature differences can be measured in a dozen or more degrees. The Sun should not be discounted either. Although it is considered “cold” in winter, its rays in south-facing rooms on a clear day can make very tangible adjustments to the microclimate of the room - it can get too hot in it. The windows that are wide open for this reason do not solve the problem, but rather bring more negative than good.

The existing central heating systems are characterized by great inertia, and with all the desire, they are simply not able to respond flexibly to changes in such current conditions. In addition, in old city houses, these systems were once designed according to the standards in force at that time. It means that monotonous radiators were installed, no one dared to think about any, except for standard wooden, window frames. Modern life I've made some adjustments here as well. Very often, homeowners change old batteries for improved appliances with more significant heat dissipation. Windows with double-glazed windows are installed en masse, which, along with the reduction of heat losses, at the same time "clogs" the premises, blocking the natural ways of air from outside. All this also leads to frequent redundancy of heat supply to the rooms.

So, you have to take the issue of thermoregulation into your own hands.

It is somewhat easier in this regard for owners of private houses with an autonomous heating system - it is much easier to respond to changes in external parameters, especially if modern equipment equipped with appropriate automation is installed. But their problem may lie in a different plane.

So, for example, in a room on the north side of the building, daily temperature fluctuations may not be felt at all, unlike the south. In some rooms, the owners prefer to set some kind of individual mode, for example, cooler in the bedroom, warmer in the nursery. Separate utility rooms, for example, food storage, large heating is not required at all, and it is generally desirable to transfer temporarily unused rooms to the minimum heat consumption in order to save money.

In any of the situations shown, it is desirable to have some kind of device that would maintain a certain stable temperature in a particular room, regardless of changing conditions. Obviously, he must "manage" the operation of heat exchange devices, making the necessary adjustments in the "real time" mode to the output thermal power. It is this role that the thermostats for the heating radiator will perform.

On what principle is the operation of a thermostat for a heating radiator based?

The fluid that circulates through the circuits of heating systems (in most cases water is used for this) was not in vain given the name "coolant" - this term almost unambiguously describes its function. Having a high heat capacity, the liquid is able to accumulate the thermal potential transferred to it in the boiler equipment and transfer it to heat exchange points - radiators or convectors. And the amount of heat carried by water depends on the temperature of its heating and the volume flowing per unit time through the heat exchange device.

It suggests quite obvious solutions for adjusting the heating level of heating batteries.

• So, for example, you can vary the temperature of the coolant - this is called a quality adjustment. There are similar systems, but they are more expensive, more difficult to install, and therefore the consumer often makes a choice not in their favor. As a rule, in such schemes, the principle of mixing the cooled coolant from the return flow back into the supply flow is implemented.

By the way, changing the heating temperature on the boiler itself is also a qualitative adjustment, but it will initially concern all heat exchange devices, and in this case we are more interested in the possibility of precise settings on a specific battery.

• The second option is to change the volume of coolant flowing through the radiator, that is, to regulate the intensity of its flow. This method is called quantitative adjustment. It is much easier to organize it, and it was she who formed the basis of the most popular thermostatic regulators for radiators.

It should not be assumed that such an adjustment is some kind of new development - in the same way you quantitatively adjust the flow of water daily by turning the handwheel of a water tap. Yes, and in heating systems, the principle of such control of the heating of radiators has been used for a very long time. Proof of this - antique cast iron batteries, a hundred or more years old - as a rule, on each of them you can see a characteristic tap for changing the intensity of the water flow through the radiator.

By the way, this method of adjustment is often used by the owners of houses and apartments at the present time. Without acquiring a seemingly expensive, automatic thermostat, they install a conventional tap at the inlet to the battery, with which they change the intensity of the coolant flow. Well, this can also be considered a solution to the problem, but only all the adjustments will have to be done by yourself, that is, there is no need to talk about any flexibility of the room heating system - everything will depend on the speed of the manual changes made.

By the way, it would be appropriate to make one important remark. If for some reason it seems to the owners that this method of controlling the heating temperature is quite enough for them, then at least a high-quality faucet must be installed. So, many people use ball valves for this, which are recommended to be installed at the inlet and outlet. It should be correctly understood that the function of these shut-off devices is the complete disconnection of the battery in cases where it must be temporarily taken out of operation, for example, for repair work or replacement. But the design of ball valves itself does not provide for intermediate positions necessary for fine adjustment - the coolant flow will very quickly "eat" either the spherical valve itself or the polymer seat-seal surrounding it.

And if a decision has already been made to save money and limit ourselves to installing a conventional plumbing faucet for adjustment, then install a valve. It will last longer, and the accuracy of setting the coolant flow passing through it will be much higher. By the way, most thermostatic devices operate on the principle of a valve valve - with a progressively moving stem, at the end of which there is a valve.

So, the principle of quantitative adjustment can be implemented without purchasing an additional thermostat, but the convenience of this approach is extremely doubtful. The owner of the house or apartment will have to independently "monitor" the change in external parameters and timely change the position of the valve in one direction or another in order to ensure the stability of the temperature in the room. It is much more convenient to entrust this to automation, so that the device itself changes the intensity of the coolant flow through the radiator.

Compact regulators with a thermostatic head successfully cope with a similar task. They were patented in Denmark back in the fifties of the last century, and DANFOSS was the first to master their mass production. The products of this brand remain at the peak of popularity today, it is considered one of the recognized "trendsetter" in the field automatic systems management for thermal equipment. By the way, two DANFOSS production lines have also been launched in Russia.

The range of such thermostats is very wide. But there are not very many fundamental differences in the models of different brands.

Automatic thermostatic device for a heating battery

Typical set of thermostat for a heating radiator

Let's first take a look at a typical set of thermostatic regulator for a heating radiator, and then consider the design of its main components.

1 - This is a metal thermal valve, the operation of which is similar to the operation of a valve valve. As a rule, for ease of installation, such a valve is immediately equipped with an “American” union nut.

2 – a protective cap that protects the adjusting part of the valve with a protruding stem in the transport position or before installing the thermal head. Very often, such a cap can also serve as an adjusting handwheel that changes the valve setting in manual mode. But this, as they say, is a “light option”, which can only be justified in extreme cases, for example, before purchasing a thermal head. In any case, such use is not regular: it is both inconvenient and not informative, and besides, it is unlikely that a plastic cap will last long in a similar role with constant adjustments.

3 - balancing valve (valve). It is placed at the outlet of the radiator, and serves to fine-tune the heat exchange device when starting the heating system. In principle, it can also serve as a locking device to shut off the radiator if it is necessary to remove it (instead of a ball valve). The adjustment of such a balancing valve is usually carried out with a special key, after which the adjustment socket is closed with a plug. By analogy with a thermal valve, it usually comes with a union nut. The balancing valve is indirectly related to the operation of a thermostatic valve, and will not be considered further in this publication.

4 - thermostatic head, that is, the main control element of the entire thermostat. It is installed on the thermal valve instead of the removed protective cap. It may vary in principle of operation and complexity.

The illustration only showed an example of a kit. But it should be correctly understood that both valves and thermal heads can differ in configuration, and, by the way, are sold separately. As a rule, manufacturers of such devices follow a single standard, that is, for example, you can first purchase a valve, and then match it with a thermal head of the required level of automation or the desired layout. All this will be discussed below.

How is the thermal valve itself arranged?

Consider a typical thermal valve device in the diagram below:

The body of the thermal valve (pos. 1) is made of metal with corrosion-resistant qualities. It can be brass (usually plated with a layer of chrome or nickel plating) or stainless steel. No attractive price should encourage the consumer to purchase a valve made of silumin alloy - these "cheap" ones, perhaps, are quite attractive in appearance, do not differ in long life and reliability.

The threaded part at the inlet (pos. 2) serves to “pack” the valve with the supply pipe. For some models, instead of such a thread, a fitting is provided for connecting to the corresponding metal-plastic pipe.

At the opposite end of the valve (at the outlet) - section external thread(pos.3). It serves to screw on the “American” union nut (pos. 5) - to connect the valve to the heating radiator. The fitting (pos. 4) is screwed into the battery. It turns out a detachable connection - if necessary, you can always close the heat exchange device and quickly dismantle it and reverse installation without resorting to complex operations. As a rule, a fitting with an "American" comes with a thermal valve. Moreover, often the fitting itself has a special internal configuration, the so-called leveling nozzle - to normalize (calm down) the coolant flow after passing through the valve.

A box is screwed into the valve body from above (pos. 6), outwardly similar to an ordinary box water valve. A progressively moving rod (pos. 7) passes through it, and the necessary seals are assembled inside and a return spring is installed that holds the rod, when there is no external influence on it, in the extreme upper position.

From below, the stem is connected to a poppet valve (pos. 8), on which a nipple made of high-quality sanitary rubber (pos. 9) is installed. When the stem is lowered, the nipple begins to gradually block the clearance for the passage of the coolant flow (shown by wide pink arrows). In the lowest position, when the stem is completely lowered, the nipple fits snugly against the metal seat of the valve (pos. 10), completely burying the passage.

A protective cap is screwed onto the threaded part in the upper part of the assembly (pos. 11) in the "stowed" position, in the working position - the thermal head coupling. However, on many models such a thread is not provided, and the installation of a thermal head is assumed using special latches with latches.

A similar principle of the device is characteristic of almost all thermal valves of this purpose. But design features can still be:

• So, valves can be designed for installation in one-pipe and two-pipe heating systems.

— For one-pipe systems where it is extremely important not to allow too high performance hydraulic resistance, valves with a larger body are used due to the expanded passage in the area of ​​​​the valve seat - this is noticeable even visually. Such devices usually have the letter “G” in the marking (for example, RTR-G), and their regular protective cap is light gray.

- In two-pipe systems organized according to the principle of forced circulation, the requirements for hydraulic resistance are not so categorical, and the valves are more compact. For their letter marking, the symbols "N" or "D", or any combination using these letters, are usually used.

• It is clear that valves can differ in connection dimensions - the range includes devices with threaded connections for ½, ¾ and 1 inch.
• Depending on the specific application, valves are selected with a completely identical control box, but with a different inlet and outlet configuration. There are models with a direct flow, and there are models with a change in direction to perpendicular. It is clear that the final choice of model will depend on the planned piping to the heating radiator and on its specific type.

The illustration above shows an example of a possible relative position the same valve part with inlet and outlet pipes

1 - a straight valve, such as shown in the sectional diagram above.

2 - angular vertical.

3 – angular horizontal

4 - with a triaxial arrangement of the valve itself and branch pipes. This model is available in two versions - right and left execution.

• Thermal valves for two-pipe systems often have an adjusting ring to allow presetting of the maximum capacity.

This feature allows you to somewhat narrow the range of valve operation exactly within the required limits. As a result, unnecessary stress on the thermal head stem is reduced, which increases its durability, and automatic temperature adjustments are performed faster and more accurately.

Adjustment is simple - the ring is pulled up, rotated to the desired position and then lowered. Recommendations on the necessary installation parameters must be attached to the product passport, and these parameters depend on the thermal power of the battery on which the valve is installed, and on the temperature regime of the heating system.

After installing the thermal head, this adjusting ring turns out to be hidden, and it no longer takes part in further temperature adjustments.

• Thermal valves with the letter “D” are also equipped with a dynamic flow stabilization system (this was already mentioned in passing above). This is a special configuration of nozzles and channels that minimizes the possible pressure drop, providing a stable flow of coolant through the radiator.

Thermostat control device - thermal head

So, on any thermal valve, we see a stem protruding from it, spring-loaded in the upper position. It is through this rod that the control force will be transmitted, which leads to a change in the cross section of the passage for the coolant and, ultimately, to a change in the heating temperature of the battery. And this control force, respectively, comes from the thermal head put on the valve.

The design of thermal heads can vary quite a lot.

• The simplest solution is to install an adjusting (shut-off) handwheel on the valve. In principle, this is almost exactly the same flywheel that is placed on plumbing valves or faucets.

Everything is extremely simple - the rotation of such a handle along the threads gives it a translational movement up or down, which is transmitted to the valve stem. No automation - all installations are carried out exclusively by hand.

It is possible to change the heating level of the radiator, but it will no longer be possible to achieve temperature stability in the room, that is, in fact, it would be wrong to call such a nozzle a thermal head. And manufacturers usually present it only as a locking device. For example, it is required to carry out dismantling or other actions with the battery for which it is necessary to disconnect it from the circuit. To do this, the thermal head is removed, such a handle is placed, the valve is securely closed - and further operations can be performed. This, by the way, gives one more "preference" - you can not put shut-off ball valves in front of the radiator (although they are strongly recommended). That is, the presence of such a handle “just in case” can only be welcomed, but considering it as an adjustment mechanism is the ultimate simplification of the radiator control circuit.

• Among the most popular devices are thermal heads, inside of which there is a so-called bellows, which reacts to changes in external temperature by increasing or decreasing its volume.

These changes in "geometry" are transmitted to the pusher, from it - to the valve stem. Thus, the change in the cross section of the channel for the passage of the coolant is performed automatically. Below, the device of the bellows head will be discussed in more detail.

• Finally, the thermal head may have a built-in servo drive that provides translational movement of the stem pusher up and down. The control voltage to the drive is generated in an electronic remote control unit that monitors the temperature in the room and changes in external parameters.

Such devices are used in complex automated systems climate control, usually managing the maintenance of a comfortable microclimate in all areas of the house. Due to this complexity, they have not gained wide application - for normal adjustment, much simpler and inexpensive bellows heads are sufficient.

The device and principle of operation of the bellows thermal head

Someone. at first glance, the device of such a device may seem tricky, but in reality it is a very simple and effective automation scheme, which, moreover, does not need power at all.

Everyone knows the property of materials to expand when heated and decrease in volume when the temperature decreases. It is this principle of thermodynamics that is the basis for the operation of such devices. Let's look at the diagram:

An angle thermal valve is shown at the bottom of the diagram, and we have already considered its device, so we will not return to this.

A thermal head is installed on the thermal valve - in this case, it is used for this union nut M30 (pos.1). There may be other mating options, for example, latches or special adapters, but it is this threaded one that is most common.

The thermal head can be conditionally divided into two sections. The fixed part is attached to the thermal valve and is the base, around the central axis of which the movable block (pos. 2) rotates, usually made of impact-resistant plastic. Channels (slotted or otherwise) are provided on the body of this rotary unit - this is necessary to ensure contact between the air in the room and the bellows element.

The bellows itself (pos. 3) can be considered the main element of this scheme. This is a hermetically sealed reservoir filled with a substance (agent) that is sensitive to temperature changes, that is, it has a noticeable volumetric expansion when heated. The agent may be liquid or gaseous.

The bellows body has the ability to change its volume - most often this is achieved by the presence of corrugated walls (pos. 4). And the work of the thermal head is based on this.

When the room temperature rises, the bellows expands, transferring force to the piston (pos. 5), from it to the pusher, and then to the valve stem, which, of course, are located coaxially after the installation of the thermal head. The movement of the rod narrows the clearance for the coolant or even completely blocks the flow of fluid. The temperature in the room has dropped - the bellows has decreased in volume - the spring-loaded valve stem moves up, slightly opening the channel for the coolant flow through the radiator.

The movable part of the thermal head is combined with a fixed base by a threaded connection (pos.6). This means that during rotation, the distance along the center line from the head pusher to the thermovalve stem changes. This allows you to set the required temperature values ​​at which the thermostatic control will work. And for visual control of the adjustment, the thermal head is equipped with a scale (pos. 7) with one or another graduation (on the rotating part) and a fixed pointer (pos. 8). This makes it possible to very accurately set the desired temperature level in the room.

This is the basic, most commonly used scheme. But some design features of bellows thermal heads are also possible.

So, sometimes it is better to control temperature indicators not directly at the heating radiator, but at some distance from it. In this case, you can use a thermal head with an external sensor, which is connected to the bellows by a thin capillary tube, the standard length of which reaches two meters.

Another option is when the location of the radiator itself is such that it becomes difficult or even simply impossible to change the settings of the thermal head. It's okay - there is a solution for this situation.

You can install a kit in which the thermal head does not have any controls - it only performs the function of a drive. To set the required values ​​and to control the temperature in the room, the set includes an external unit connected to the head with the same capillary tube. The block can be placed on the wall in any convenient place within the length of the capillary. It is clear that in such a system there are already two bellows - one control, located in the remote block, and the second - "power", that is, transmitting mechanical force to the thermovalve stem.

Thermal heads with electronic control

Recently, more and more often you can find thermostats for radiators on sale, which stand out sharply against the general background by the presence of a digital display and push-button control. If you look at it, then only the thermal head itself is electronic here, and it is docked with the same standard mechanical thermal valve.

Here, too, a wide variety is possible. Some electronic heads, simpler, combine mechanical and push-button control, allow only presetting one current temperature stabilization mode in the room. Others are also equipped with a programming function, that is, the owners can plan the operation of radiators by time of day and by day of the week. This is especially convenient if the heating system works offline (gives considerable savings on energy), or if there are heat meters in a city apartment - you will have to pay only for the consumed energy. For example, it does not make much sense to maintain a temperature of +20 degrees during the working day, when there are no tenants in the apartment - it can only be “adjusted” to the arrival of the owners home. You can reduce the heat even at night - in a cool atmosphere, you sleep much better. Well, by the "morning wake-up" automation will do its job - there will be optimum temperature. For weekends - to provide specific modes of operation.

In addition, such thermal heads often carry special settings in their memory, the name of which speaks for itself - “freeze protection”, “holiday”, “economy”, etc. Switching the room heating system to this mode is just a matter of pressing the corresponding button.

You can go even further - to combine the management of all heating radiators in a single "center", to which all the climate equipment in the house is subordinated. For this innovative approach, special thermal heads are also produced, equipped with a wireless communication system with a control unit.

It is clear that not everyone can afford such a luxury. Who knows, it is possible that in five years such a system will become an accessible routine. In the meantime, at least at first, it makes sense to install a conventional bellows thermal head. You just need to choose the right one to get started.

What criteria are followed when choosing a thermostat for a heating battery?

Choosing optimal model for your heating radiator, the following must be taken into account:

• It is not necessary to purchase a ready-made kit. If you can simply choose a thermal valve and a thermal head separately according to the cost criteria, you can do so. In addition, there are situations when buying a complete set at once seems too expensive. This means that it makes sense to first install a thermal valve and manage it manually, and from the next salary, already purchase an automatic thermal head.
• It has already been mentioned above that the design of the valve must correspond to the type of heating system. Among the assortment presented in stores, most valves are designed for two-pipe systems, but if you have a single-pipe system, then such a replacement is unacceptable! Will have to search...
• Going to the store for a thermostat, the owner should already have a clear idea of ​​​​how he has connected to the radiator, what pipe diameter is used, and where it is planned to install the thermal valve. It has already been shown above that the configuration of the product depends on this. Important - the regulator should only be installed on the supply pipe.

Moreover, there are certain requirements for the location of the thermal head itself. If you put it vertically, then the bellows will fall into the flow of warm air rising up from the supply pipe, and the operation of the bellows will not be correct.

It is clear that this requirement does not apply to thermal heads with a remote sensor or outdoor unit management.

The dimensions of the threaded connection of the thermal valve depend on the diameter of the supply pipes.

• There are a few more recommendations for choosing the location of the thermostat. So, you should not put it where direct sunlight is likely - the device will begin to "lie". The proximity of large household appliances, from which thermal radiation is possible, can also have a negative effect. A device located in a constant draft zone will not work correctly. The presence of any of the listed obstacles forces you to purchase a thermostat with a remote sensor or with an external control panel.

Radiators will also require a similar approach, which, for reasons of interior design, are hidden in niches, behind blackout curtains or under decorative screens, as well as hidden convectors.

• From the above, it is probably clear that a thermal head with automatic control is much more advantageous than a conventional valve installed on a valve. But in some cases the opposite is true. So, it does not make much sense to spend money on a bellows thermal head if you plan to install a regulator on cast iron batteries. The high heat capacity of this metal and big mass radiators make them excessively inertial, and the thermostatic unit is unlikely to work correctly. It is quite possible to confine yourself to installing a conventional mechanical handle on the thermal valve.
• Thermal heads can be equipped with liquid or gaseous agent bellows. Which is better? It is generally accepted that gas-filled bellows have greater accuracy, increased speed of response to changes external conditions. They have one more advantage - they are not so "capricious" for the presence of any third-party heat sources. But the price for them is significantly different from the cost of heads with a liquid bellows, simply because of the increased complexity in production.

Judged objectively, the advantages in terms of speed of response and accuracy in terms of practical application- are hardly noticeable, and it will probably still be more profitable to buy a cheaper liquid bellows. Moreover, there is not much difference in terms of reliability and durability.

To the number performance characteristics refers to the accuracy of regulation. This includes the value of hysteresis - this is a change in the external temperature, causing a response of the automation of the device. It is clear that the lower this indicator, the more sensitive the thermostat. The temperature setting accuracy can be indicated (this is especially true for electronic components). For mechanical devices, scale graduation matters. The “length” of this scale is also important, but, as a rule, for most devices it is maintained in the range from +5 ° С (anti-freeze mode) to +30 ° С. Usually, a position is also provided in which, if such a need arises, the thermal valve is completely closed.

• The thermostat head, like a beautiful toy, can attract the attention of a child, and he will be tempted to twist it while there are no adults nearby. It is probably worth considering this possibility as well. Troubles can be avoided if you immediately purchase the so-called anti-vandal casing, which will not allow unauthorized access to the tuning flywheel.

Yes, children - sometimes an adult family member can "take the initiative" by knocking down installed settings. Therefore, some thermal heads provide for the presence of mechanical limiters for the rotation of the adjusting handwheel, within the minimum required range. At least amateur intervention won't end up with a setting too low or too high. high temperature in room.

• It is probably unnecessary to explain that it is unreasonable to purchase devices of this type from hand or in obscure outlets. Manufacturers of thermostats (especially for thermal heads) give a guarantee for their products, but it will be valid only if there is a mark of a specialized store in the product passport, and you can only check the originality of the product there.

When buying, it is better to focus on reputable brands that have proven by practice the reliability and durability of thermostats. These include Danfoss, Teplokontrol, SALUS Controls, Royal Thermo, Oventrop, Caleffi. In a word, there is a choice, and it makes no sense to give your "hard-earned money" for a completely unfamiliar trademark, whose origin is generally unknown.

A small overview of popular models of thermal heads

The table below shows the main characteristics of several models of thermal heads that are in great demand among Russian consumers.

To this must be added the cost of the thermal valve. In high-quality performance, for example, the original Danfoss valve, it can cost, depending on the specific model, another 1200÷2600 rubles.

Video: expert advice on choosing a thermostat for a heating radiator

How to independently install and configure a thermostat for a heating battery

Mounting the thermal valve and installing the head

Masters who undertake to install a thermostat on a heating radiator often charge an unreasonably high fee for this, and plus they require an “additive” for the initial adjustment of the device. But all this can be done independently, unless, of course, there are plumbing installation skills. If there is no experience, then it is probably not very reasonable to consider the installation of a thermal valve as a training session. Therefore, read the basic installation rules - it will be easier to assess your capabilities in advance.

• The installation of thermostats with their subsequent adjustment is usually started from the top floor of a private house, since it is there that warm air rises. If the house is one-story, or the installation of the regulation system is planned in the apartment, then first of all you should pay attention to the premises, which are characterized by the greatest amplitudes of temperature fluctuations. These include the kitchen, rooms facing the sunny side, as well as rooms where it is usually celebrated the largest number of people.
• If there are several heating radiators in the room, then installing a thermal head on each of them is an unnecessary luxury. In addition, they will even create a kind of interference with each other. It is enough to mount it on the one that is more powerful, and if they are equivalent, then on any, but better on the one where it will be more convenient to make settings.
• The thermal valve is always installed only on the supply pipe, regardless of the radiator connection scheme. The direction of movement of the coolant is indicated by an arrow on the body. At the inlet, the thermal valve has an internal thread section - for connection with the supply pipe. At the outlet, a threaded fitting is provided for the union nut, which, with its own fitting, should be included in the kit. The “American” fitting is packed into the radiator, but the connection between the thermal valve and the radiator, therefore, turns out to be detachable.
• Before starting installation, make sure that the coolant from the system (or in this section of the system) is drained, the pipes are empty.
• The thermal head should not even be taken out of the package until the valve is completely ready. And the valve itself should be installed with a protective cap on - there is less chance of accidentally damaging the protruding stem during installation.
• As already mentioned, the valve must take such a position that after installing the head, it is located horizontally. This requirement does not apply to devices with a remote temperature sensor.
• There are no ready-made "recipes" for connecting the valve to the supply pipe - it all depends on the type of pipe, the proposed installation technology (through a squeegee or an additional "American" - for metal, fittings for metal-plastic, welding for polypropylene, etc.). The one who performed the plumbing installation understands what the conversation is about.
• Do I need a ball valve upstream of the valve? In principle, it is possible to do without it, however, the crane is not so expensive as to be neglected. It is undesirable to consider a thermal valve as a locking device - let it work only for adjustment, without experiencing unnecessary loads. If you compare the prices of valves and taps, everything should become clear.

But “sculpting” a ball valve between the valve and the radiator is completely wrong.

• In the event that the radiator is included in a single-pipe heating system (or in its single-pipe section - this also happens), the thermal valve will not work correctly without interfering with other heat exchange devices if a bypass is not installed in front of the radiator.

A bypass is a jumper between the supply and return pipes. It performs several functions, and one of them is to prevent the imbalance of the entire system when the coolant flow through the radiator is limited or completely closed.

If there is no bypass, then it should be in without fail install. In this case, they are usually guided by the rule that the diameter of such a jumper should be one step smaller than the diameter of the supply pipes. The bypass must be installed up to the stopcocks so that turning off the radiator does not stop the entire system. But it is not recommended to mount a tap on the bypass itself.

• Upon completion of the installation of the thermal valve, the system is filled with coolant, the circulation pump is started - it is required to check the quality of all created connecting nodes to prevent leakage during use. In addition, attention is drawn to the place where the stem leaves the valve body - there should not be a “tear” there. If even a small leak is detected there, it means that not everything is in order with the stuffing box seal of the valve, and it makes sense to urgently replace it in the store with a serviceable one.
• Valves with a setting ring are pre-installed. The optimal value is determined in accordance with the recommendations specified in the product data sheet. The installation itself is very simple - the ring is pulled forward, which is removed from the stopper, rotated until the risk matches the desired value, and then stops again.

• And only now it is possible to finally assemble the thermostat, that is, install the head on the valve. As mentioned above, the options for fixing it may vary - but this must be specified in the product passport and taken into account even when buying. Some manufacturers practice special clamps - it is enough to push the head onto the valve body until it clicks. Another common option is to use an M30 union nut.

Before installation, the thermal head is positioned so that its scale is clearly visible. No tool is required to tighten the nut - finger force is sufficient.

Setting thermostats on heating radiators

The passport gives a decoding of the divisions of the thermal head scale - products for this purpose undergo an appropriate calibration at the factory. But laboratory conditions can be very different from real ones, so it is recommended to calibrate your own heating system and actual operating conditions. That is, to get a visual representation of the correspondence of the values ​​on the scale with the air temperatures in the room.

• This will require a conventional thermometer - it is better to rely on its readings than on own feelings, which, by the way, different members Families may not be the same.
• To set up, it is necessary to close windows and doors, that is, to prevent drafts.
• The first step is to open the thermal valve completely. To do this, the head rotates counterclockwise to its end position. Encountering virtually no resistance in the valve, the coolant ensures maximum heating of the radiator at a given temperature regime heating systems.
• When completely open valve the air temperature in the room begins to rise rapidly. They wait until it reaches the upper threshold (enough, for example, 28 ÷ 30 degrees), and then turn the head in the opposite direction (clockwise) to transfer it to the extreme right position, at which the valve is closed.
• After a while, the temperature starts to drop. This is where more attention is needed. When the temperature level approaches the most comfortable feeling or the intended reading of the thermometer, I begin to turn the thermal head very smoothly counterclockwise. It is necessary to catch the moment when the valve opens. This can be manifested by the appearance of a slight noise of the coolant passing through the valve and heating of the body in the area of ​​the outlet pipe. This is the position of the thermal head and will correspond to the actual response temperature. For control, the experiment can be carried out several times - for different levels temperature, recording the readings of the thermometer and the corresponding divisions of the scale. As a result, the owners will have a clear picture, which, by the way, will be useful to check with the data of the thermal head passport. Now there is all the necessary data for the normal operation of the thermostat.

Summing up…

To summarize the information - a few words about the preferences that homeowners receive who have installed radiator thermoregulation devices.

• The cost of thermostats does not look frightening, the installation also does not differ in great complexity, that is, a big gap in family budget such an optimization of the heating system will not break through. And both newly created and systems that have been in operation for a long time are quite subject to modernization - there is not much difference.
• The room always maintains a stable level of comfortable temperature set by the owners, regardless of changes in external conditions.
• Heat is distributed throughout the premises rationally, evenly, which is especially important for single-pipe heating systems, which are often characterized by a persistent decrease in the temperature of the coolant on the radiators as they move away from the boiler room.
• The operation of thermostatic regulators of this type is simple and does not require any energy costs. On the contrary, there will be an effect of energy savings (sometimes even up to 25%), and the purchase of such devices usually pays off very quickly.

At the same time, it should be correctly understood that the operation of such thermostats is one-sided, and is always aimed only at reducing the temperature in heating radiators. It would be completely naive to believe that if there is not enough heat, the thermal head will “perform a miracle”, and the temperature in the room will rise. No, radiators must always have an operating power reserve, and the task of the valves is to take exactly as much heat as is required at the current moment.

And if the power is not enough, you will have to look for the cause and eliminate it. The options here may be different - a “weak” boiler, incorrect or poorly executed circuit wiring, erroneously calculated parameters of installed radiators, or even insufficient insulation of the house.

And since we are now talking about the correct selection of radiators by power, we offer the reader as a "bonus" a convenient program for calculating this parameter.

Appendix: Program for calculating the required power of a heating radiator

When designing a heating system and each of its elements, they proceed from the considerations that its power should be sufficient to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the premises under the most adverse conditions. In fact maximum performance or are never achieved at all, or are in demand for an extremely short time. This is where the importance of thermoregulation systems manifests itself in the most obvious way - they seem to smooth out the discrepancy between the existing capabilities of radiators and the actual need for heat at the moment.

But the operational reserve, nevertheless, must be laid down.

And how to determine the required heat output of radiators? An often recommended counting technique when square meter 100 watts of heat is “assigned” to the area, which is very far from reality, since it does not take into account a lot of important nuances. Therefore, we offer our own calculation algorithm, which is implemented as an online calculator.