How to install plastic windows with your own hands. Installing a plastic window with your own hands: let's look at installing a plastic window step by step

To independently install a plastic window in your apartment or house, you do not need to have any special skills or special tools. Even a self-taught installer can insert it correctly into the opening and secure it with anchor bolts. It is enough to know how to handle a building level and a hammer drill. Only the installation must be carried out strictly according to the rules prescribed in GOSTs and instructions from manufacturers of PVC window products. Otherwise, this transparent structure will not last long.

Required tools and materials

Installation of a plastic window is carried out in five stages:

1. Removing the old window frame.
2. Preparing the opening.
3. Installation and level adjustment new frame with doors.
4. Drain mount with outside window.
5. Foaming the installation gaps and installing a window sill with slopes.

In addition to a hammer drill and a level, to install a window you will also need a hammer, a screwdriver, a water sprayer, a spatula, metal scissors and a pry bar. From Supplies You need to purchase mounting foam, silicone, anchor bolts or metal plates with dowel screws and plastic construction wedges in advance (or prepare small pieces of wood).

Required tools for installation

You will also need vapor-permeable self-adhesive and waterproofing tapes. Plus, the PVC window kit should include slopes, a stand profile, a window sill and a metal sill. If all this is available, then you can begin installation.

Window design

Dismantling an old PVC window and preparing the opening

To get rid of an old wooden or plastic window, you need to remove the sashes and make a cut on the side of its frame with a hacksaw. Then, using a pry bar, one of the resulting parts is pulled back and, by hand, pulled out of the wall together with fasteners. Afterwards, the procedure is repeated with all remaining fragments of the deleted window. Then the insulation is removed from the opening (if it is there) and everything that can fall off (for example, mortar).

Design plastic windows in section

As a result, only bare and even ends of the walls made of brick, concrete or wood should remain. If there are chips, cracks or gouges on these surfaces with a depth and size of more than 1 cm, then they must be repaired concrete mortar. There is no need to do anything special to align it with the new plastic window; all the same, then the small cracks and recesses will be filled with polyurethane foam. However, it is not worth leaving deep noticeable defects without repair.

Possible errors with measurements

Before you continue to work and install a plastic window with your own hands, you need to remove dirt, dust and oil stains from the surfaces in the opening. If you have to install a window structure in winter, then you also need to remove snow and frost, and then warm up the ends of the wall construction hairdryer to remove moisture.

Window installation

Installation of PVC windows with fixation in the opening can be done in two ways:

1. Anchor bolts through the frame profile.
2. Plates secured to the side of the frame with self-tapping dowels.

The first option is more reliable. However, with this technology for installing plastic windows, the frame profile turns out to be drilled through. As a result, its thermal insulation efficiency decreases. If a window unit needs to be installed in a building erected in a region with a cold climate, then it would be best to abandon this method.

The second option for fastening plastic windows is considered less reliable and is not recommended in the presence of strong wind loads. But in winter, the heat will definitely not escape from the house through the holes in the profile into the street.

Installation of windows with different options slope

Holes for fastening PVC windows are drilled in the wall with a distance of 15–25 cm from the corners of the opening. Plus one or two more holes on the sides, bottom and top are made in the middle with a step of no more than 70 cm between them.

The new window is directly positioned in the opening using the stand profile and adjusting wedges. Plus, you will need to glue a vapor-permeable gasket (PSUL) around the outer side of the frame in advance. And you should not tighten the bolts or screws all the way immediately after leveling the structure in the opening using a level. First, you also need to secure the ebb and flow to drain rainwater and waterproofing.

How to position the window frame correctly

Drainage

The next step in installing a plastic window with your own hands is to attach the drainage system. It must be installed in any situation. Without this external element of the window unit, all the rain water will fall onto the foam and under the frame. The inevitable result will be the destruction of the installation seam and the formation of gaps between the profile and the wall.
The ebb is fastened with self-tapping screws not to the window itself, but to the stand profile under the frame. In this case, the waterproofing tape is first laid. And then a drainage system is placed on top of it and fixed in place. Then under this metal bar it is splashed polyurethane foam.

How to position the drain correctly

Assembling a plastic window

Before installing a plastic window in the opening, you have to remove all opening sashes from it so that they do not interfere installation work. Plus, the double-glazed window from the blind part of the structure is also removed. To do this, you need to pry up the plastic beads with a spatula and knock them out of the groove.

Reinstallation of sashes and double-glazed windows in plastic windows is carried out before foaming the gaps around the frame. If they are not put back in place, then the foam cannot be blown out. After spraying, polyurethane foam expands 1.5–2 times. Moreover, this happens with the creation of quite strong pressure on the frame profile. It can easily be bent so that later it is simply impossible to insert the sashes back.

Window sill installation

Installing a window sill on a window largely follows the same technology as installing a drainage system. Only instead of a waterproofing tape, a vapor barrier is used indoors. If the waterproofing on the outside prevents moisture from entering the assembly seam, then the vapor barrier on the inside is designed to evaporate it into the house.

Installation of windows with and without waterproofing

The foam in the gap should not get wet or freeze; this will instantly destroy it. The window sill is laid on wooden guide supports located perpendicular to the window and along its entire length in steps of 30–40 cm. In this case, an inward slope of 2–3 degrees must be maintained. This is necessary so that the resulting condensate drains from the window sill and does not stagnate in the corners.

Waterproofing joints

After alignment and alignment of the window sill, it is inserted with pressure under the lower edge of the frame. Then the gap is foamed from below and on top plastic plate severity is established. Once the foam has hardened, it is securely fixed in place.

Plastic windows are very popular. They protect the room well from cold and wind, and retain heat well inside the room. It is important to know how double-glazed windows are installed, because its correctness determines whether the window will function as planned. If a glass unit is damaged, it is quite possible to replace it yourself.

What do you need to prepare before installation?

Play an important role preparatory work: Without them, it will not be possible to install according to all the rules, which can lead to a violation of the window seal.

If you have an old window installed and you want to replace it with a new product, you will need to start by dismantling it, then you will need to clear the opening of debris and level it if necessary. If you want to replace only a double-glazed window, it will be enough to carefully remove the damaged one from the frame: it is secured with special glazing beads. Leftovers broken glass must be carefully removed. Wear gloves when working, as the edges may be sharp.

Before installation, it is necessary to take correct measurements to determine whether there is any horizontal or vertical displacement

Which design should you choose?

Installation begins not with installation, but with measurements. They must be accurate, otherwise new design will not fit in size. If you are afraid of taking measurements incorrectly, invite a measurer. It’s good if it comes from the same company that will manufacture the double-glazed windows for you.

It is better to give preference to proven manufacturers whose product quality has proven itself well in the market.

The configuration is selected based on the number of sashes of the future window and the method of fastening. This determines how the glass unit will be attached. Usually there are two methods:

• Fastening through the frame in the same mounting plane.
• Using support reinforcement. Such fittings are already present in the frame and are placed there by the manufacturer.

Most often, the first method is used during installation, since it is easier to do it yourself, the weight of the structure is reduced, and installation takes less time. If the sashes are solid, you will need to remove the internal double-glazed windows. In the case of fittings, the scheme itself is a little more complicated, however, despite this, you do not risk damaging the double-glazed window during installation, accidentally damaging the frame or breaking the glass. You can install double-glazed windows hermetically, which is not always possible when self-installation the first way.

If the window is under warranty, you should not change the glass unit yourself: this will deprive you of warranty service. If the glass is damaged, contact the installation company.

How the window works

How is a double-glazed window installed?

The work takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare the place: clean it, move the furniture away from it so as not to interfere with work; if the opening is uneven or there is debris, it needs to be cleaned and leveled using cement mortar.

Removing an old window

Preparation of the opening

After this, you can move on to preparing yourself. To do this you will need to remove the flaps. U Installation of a double-glazed window into the frame should not be carried out by weight; for installation, you will need to remove the glazing beads, for which you can use a chisel and a hammer. The work should be done carefully so as not to accidentally break the glass.

The beads need to be placed in the same place where they were previously, so it is better to number them right away.

The lower and side elements should be pulled out first, the top one last. The glazing bead should fit tightly, but not tightly; if it does not fit into place, try another one: you probably have the elements mixed up. If the sequence is violated, the double-glazed window will not hold firmly, small gaps will form, violating the tightness of the window. There is no need to remove the frame to install the glass unit.

Installing the frame in the opening

After the first steps have been completed, you can proceed to the direct installation of the double-glazed window. Even with minimal experience, you will spend a little time on these actions. The installation is carried out as follows:

• In order for the installation of the frame to be smooth, special bars made of wood or plastic are placed at the bottom of the window. Most often, these elements are sold in the same place where plastic windows are sold. The top edges of the substrates must be horizontal; this can be checked using building level appropriate length or use for this purpose laser level. If the line is skewed, the window will also skew and it will not be able to function properly.
• After this, the structure is secured using anchor bolts or polyurethane foam. There is no need to rush to pull out the bars: this should be done two weeks after the window is fixed.
• To prevent the frame from bending, pegs should also be installed on the sides or in the center. They will hold the structure in an upright position.
• Check whether the glass unit is horizontal or not using a building level. If it is not level, you need to add pegs to level the structure to the desired plane. In order to find out whether the window is vertical, use a plumb line.

Installation of double-glazed windows

It is more convenient to fasten the frame first from below, on both sides of the corners. After this, you can move on to other attachment points. If fastening occurs using anchor bolts, they should be tightened to the end only when the structure is perfectly level. Otherwise, there is a high risk of its deformation.

• Some structures are attached using the included metal ears: they already have holes for anchor bolts. Make sure that the hole drilled in the wall coincides with the hole on the eyelet, and that the metal element itself fits against the wall as tightly as possible: this will eliminate unnecessary gaps.
• After this, a window sash is installed, into which a double-glazed window has already been inserted, and the cracks are sealed.

Knowing how to install double-glazed windows, you can save a lot if you need to replace the glass and do the work yourself. This does not require any construction skills or the purchase of expensive tools.

The PLASTOK company manufactures windows and installs them to the highest standards in accordance with GOST and with a 5-year guarantee. We offer installation of plastic and aluminum windows as well as glazing of balconies

Prices for installing plastic windows

* Dismantling is free only when ordering and installing windows
** Minimum installation cost is 2500 rubles.
** Installation costs for windows of non-standard shape are calculated individually.

To get a durable and high-quality installation, you need to call a measurer who will measure the window opening, not only taking into account your wishes, but also taking into account the characteristics of the building itself and the increase in the opening after dismantling. If you follow all the rules for dismantling and installing a plastic window, you will receive durability, quality, reliability, warmth and comfort in your home.

Video of the installation process

Main stages of installation of plastic windows

The PLASTOK company performs high quality installation using modern instruments and materials. Installation teams consist of trained qualified specialists. The company conducts systematic training courses for employees.
PLASTOK is quality assurance installation work performed.

Preparing access to the window opening

Checking the size of new PVC windows and preparing them for installation

Before starting installation in mandatory a control check is carried out to ensure that the window dimensions correspond to the window opening, the order contents and its compliance with the technical specifications are checked.

The sashes are removed from their hinges and the blind windows are unglazed. Holes are drilled in the frame or anchor plates are secured in accordance with the requirements approved by GOST, taking into account the type of house and the indicators specified in the measurement sheet. When determining the locations of fasteners, installers are guided by the following requirements:

• distance between fastening elements - no more than 700 mm,
• distance from internal corner window block boxes to the fastening element - 150-180 mm (but not less than 2 fastening elements on one side),
• the distance from the impost connection to the fastening element is 120-180 mm.

Removing old window frames

After knocking down the slopes, the old frames are removed from the window opening. During installation working space kept clean and large construction debris removed.

Before installing the frame into the opening, 3 types of tapes are installed on it, which provide hydro, heat and sound insulation of the room.

1. PSUL tape- self-expanding pre-compressed sealing tape. The material is a self-adhesive polyurethane foam tape, which is impregnated with a special neoprene composition. It glues easily and has the ability to expand, filling all the defects and unevenness of the window opening. The tape not only hides these defects, but also perfectly protects the assembly seam from exposure to weather conditions. PSUL tape is glued to the side and top parts of the frame, taking into account the quarter turn.
2. Vapor barrier tape made from aluminum foil, reinforced with high-strength synthetic thread, designed for internal vapor barrier assembly seams.
3. Waterproofing tape will reliably protect the external assembly seam from aggressive atmospheric influences. It is made on a polypropylene base with a butyl adhesive strip that firmly adheres to the opening or slope, and the adhesive mounting strips are easily fixed to the window or door profile.

Preparing the window opening and installing the frame and sashes

Before installing a new window, the opening is thoroughly cleaned and prepared. Then, using technological wedges, taking into account the gaps on the sides, the frame is aligned relative to the vertical and horizontal. Plates or dowels are fixed on the sides of the window frame. During the installation process it is necessary to carry out control measurement deviations. Installed window sashes and the blind parts are glazed.

When the frame is fixed, the installation seam between the frame and the wall is sealed with foam sealant.

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At what stage of construction should windows be installed?

Wooden windows must be installed after all wet work has been done inside the house finishing works- plasters and floor screeds.

House before installation wooden windows It should dry out at least a little. Otherwise, high humidity indoor air (up to 96%) causes wood to swell, moisture condensation on glass further moistens wooden parts windows As a result, deformation and unsticking of parts occurs, damage paintwork wooden profiles window.

Finishing walls with plasterboard, instead of plaster, significantly reduces the release of moisture into the air in the room. Wooden windows can be installed after the installation of screeds, before finishing the walls with plasterboard.

Plastic PVC windows are not afraid of moisture. They can be installed before finishing work begins on the house.

If the walls are finished with dry plaster - plasterboard, then the windows in any case must be installed before finishing work begins. Drywall can be damaged by atmospheric moisture entering the house through unfilled window openings.

If finishing of premises is carried out in winter

Often work on the construction of walls and roofs of a private house ends in the fall. Interior decoration The owners decide to make their homes in winter. In this case install plastic windows and turn on the heating in the house. It is better to finish walls in winter using plasterboard. Cladding with plasterboard does not greatly increase the humidity in the premises and allows you to quickly complete the following finishing stages.

In case of installation of wooden windows Finishing work in winter must be carried out using dry plaster.

To quickly reduce humidity, in a house with installed windows it is recommended to increase the intensity natural ventilation, installing electric fans in the ventilation ducts, and keeping the windows slightly open.

The temperature in the premises during finishing work, as well as until the plaster and screed has dried, is necessary Constantly maintain above +5 o C.

The amount of construction moisture in the house can be further reduced, and the completion of finishing can be accelerated, if, when installing floors in all or part of the premises, instead of a monolithic concrete screed, a dry prefabricated screed is used.

If the house is being decorated in the summer

If finishing work in the house begins in the spring, then It is better to install plastic windows before starting work.

After installing the windows, first plaster the slopes and corners window openings. Then the walls are leveled with plaster.

In case of using wooden windows their installation must be completed after all wet finishing work has been completed.

During finishing work, to eliminate drafts in the house, window openings are covered with film.

First, the walls are plastered without touching the window slopes. It is better to wait some time to allow the house to dry out from construction moisture. Then wooden windows are installed.

After installing wooden windows, you will have to once again invite finishers to plaster window slopes or facing them sheet material, for example, plasterboard.

When to finish the facade

For single-layer walls(without insulation) can be applied facade plaster both before and after window installation. But it is better to finish the facade after installing the windows. In this case, the joint between the window and the wall will be properly sealed, window slopes will be immediately made, and external window sill drains will be installed.

If you finish the facade before installing the windows, then you will have to return to plastering the slopes again. The plaster applied later will differ from the previously completed one, which will be noticeable.

For double-layer walls Installation of insulation and finishing of the facade is carried out after installing the windows.

In a two-layer wall with facade insulation, windows must be installed before installing the insulation boards. This will allow you to properly finish the window slopes from the outside.

When finishing the facade with plaster on insulation, the insulation boards should be 2-3 cm. overlap the window frame. Insulation boards are placed without joints in the corners of window openings. To do this, the insulation board is cut, giving it an L-shape, and installed with a cutout around the corner of the window.

It is recommended to close the windows while finishing (plastering) the façade. plastic film, securing it with adhesive tape. Protect window profile Regular masking tape is not recommended - marks may remain after removing the tape.

The protective film on the frame outside the window is removed immediately after installation. Otherwise, under the influence of the sun, the film will stick so that it cannot be removed.

The protective film on the frame indoors can remain on the window for no more than one month from the date of installation.

Window installation - rules

To place an order for the manufacture of windows, it is very important to correctly determine the dimensions of the window unit. If the dimensions of the block turn out to be too large, then during installation it will not be possible to correctly make the slopes, install the window sill and ebbs. If the size of the window block is too small compared to the dimensions of the opening in the wall, the load on the fastening elements increases, difficulties arise with high-quality sealing of the joint between the wall and the window, which will create problems during the operation of the window.

It can be profitable to order window manufacturing in the winter - manufacturers give discounts on prices during this period. Before installation, windows purchased in advance must be stored in a dry place, away from exposure to sunlight.

In winter, it is not recommended to install plastic windows at outside air temperatures below -5 o C. Although, according to the standards of window manufacturers, their installation is allowed at air temperatures down to -10 o C. At lower temperatures, the plastic becomes brittle, increasing the risk of cracks and chips in window parts .

Polyurethane foam, even “winter” foam, may not have good adhesion to the wall at subzero temperatures. In a new house, the surface of the wall in the opening is often covered with a thin crust of ice invisible to the eye. At low temperatures, foam hardens very slowly. It is better to postpone installation of windows until the warm season.

Attaching the window to the wall

The window block is installed in the window opening on spacer bars and leveled horizontally and vertically.

The window block is attached to the wall in two ways: with steel anchors or frame dowels.

One end of the anchor, a galvanized steel plate, is fixed to the window block, and the other end is screwed to the wall. The anchor is attached to the window as recommended by the window manufacturer.

Using steel anchors, you can attach any type of window to a wall made of any material and different designs(single-layer, multi-layer).

Fastening a window to a wall with a frame dowel is not so universal.

To fasten the window with a frame dowel, a hole is drilled in the window profile. Through this hole in the profile a hole is drilled in the wall. A steel frame dowel is inserted into the resulting channel and the dowel screw is tightened. The end of the dowel in the wall opens and fixes the structure to the wall.

This method of fastening forces you to interfere with the design of the window. Excessive twisting of the dowel leads to deformation of the window profile and limits the movement of the structure when temperature changes. It is necessary to follow the window manufacturer's recommendations for attaching them to the wall using dowels.

The most important thing when installing a window is to ensure a high-quality seal at the joint between the wall and the window. Be sure to supervise the work of the installation team in filling the joint with polyurethane foam.

When exposed to ultraviolet rays from the sun, polyurethane foam breaks down over time. That's why outside connection between window and wall protected from weather conditions with special tape or liquid sealant for outdoor use.

The seal between the window and the wall protects the joint from the penetration of rain, wind and ultraviolet radiation.

From inside the room The space between the window frame and the wall is sealed with vapor-proof tape. Sealing allows you to prevent the penetration of steam and its condensation at the junction of the wall and window.

Window location in the wall

Position of window and door in thickness outer wall should ensure minimal heat loss through the wall in the slopes around the perimeter of the window (bypassing the window).

Window in a single-layer wall without insulation

In a single-layer wall there is a window or outer door It is recommended to place it along the thickness of the wall, closer to its middle. In this position, heat loss in the slopes at the junction will be minimal.

In the figure: 1 - seam reinforcement (if necessary); 2 - additional ceramic block; 3 - thermal insulation 10 cm; 4 - window; 5 - masonry made of large-format ceramic blocks; 6 - reinforced concrete lintels; 7 - reinforced concrete belt; 8 - frequently ribbed ceiling; 9 - heat and sound insulation slabs; 10 - concrete screed 5 cm; 11 - compensation tape.

Window location in a double-layer wall

In a two-layer wall with facade finishing with siding or plaster over insulation (“ wet facade") the window block is installed flush with the outer surface of the wall masonry.

The insulation layer on the facade of a two-layer wall should cover the joint between the window and the wall, and overlap the window profile by 2-3 cm.

Window location in a three-layer wall

In the picture: 1 - horizontal waterproofing with a turn on the wall; 2 - hole in the vertical seam between the bricks for water drainage and ventilation; 3 - reinforced concrete lintel in cladding, covered with clinker tiles; 4 - silicone sealant or sealing tape; 5 - window, located in the thickness of the heat-insulating layer; 6 - reinforced concrete lintel in the load-bearing layer of the wall.

In a three-layer wall, with the insulated facade facing with brick, the windows are installed in the insulation layer, closer to the masonry of the load-bearing part of the wall. The gap between the cladding masonry and window block filled with elastic tape pos. 4. The seal between the window and the cladding protects the joint from the penetration of rain, wind and ultraviolet radiation.

In the figure: 1 - clinker window sill (shaped brick or tile); 2 - joint sealing; 3 - window box; 4 - groove - drip; 5 - ventilated gap.

Window in a timber wall

Correct installation windows in the wall made of timber: 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 - interventional insulation; 8 - shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall beam (pier); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Roller shutters for windows

From the outside to the windows of a private house It is recommended to install roller shutters. Closed roller shutters not only protect windows from burglary, but in severe frosts they reduce heat loss through the windows, and in the summer heat they reduce overheating of the house from the sun's rays. It is better to provide for the installation of roller shutters on windows in advance, at the stage of designing a house or placing an order for the manufacture of windows.

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The desire to improve the exterior of your home and save money on heating prompted you to shop at a hardware store and now you want to know how to install plastic windows yourself? That's right, because it is very irrational to pay a lot of money to professional builders for something that you can do yourself in just a couple of hours.

The technology for installing plastic windows is simple, even a child can handle it (if you support the structure in the opening). All you need to do is learn a few basic steps this process and remember simple tips masters Now we will look at a typical installation of a plastic window according to GOST, starting with dismantling old frame and ending with finishing of slopes and installation of fittings.

How to get the necessary measurements to order a window?

Let's say you are just going to replace old and scary windows with new and thermally efficient ones. To do this, you will need to correctly measure the window opening so that you don’t have to sit and expand the walls of the house with a chisel and a hammer drill. The easiest option is to call a master measurer, which is provided by many construction companies and window sellers. It’s clear that this costs money, even if they don’t charge you a penny for it (the amount is already included in the cost of the window). The second option is to find a plumber or carpenter with straight arms at the entrance and supply him with 0.5 liters of Stolichnaya.

In fact, measuring and installing plastic windows with your own hands is a simple matter. First you need to get the exact width and length of the window opening without taking into account debris ( wooden frame, plaster, dirt). According to GOST, along the perimeter window design us 20 mm should be left for thermal insulation, an additional 35 mm should be left for the window sill. That is, measure the width and height of the opening and tilt it 50 mm each– this will give you the necessary parameters for the new window.

There is also such a miracle of construction as quarter windows. What it is? A window with a small protrusion that increases heat loss around the perimeter of the window. Most often, such miracles can be found in houses made of foam concrete. Here we measure everything at the narrowest point and add 30 mm to the window width when ordering.

The technology for installing windows involves fixing the frame not in the center, but with a recess of 30% of the width of the wall in depth (looked from outside the house). In fact, you can move it anywhere. The main thing here is to take into account the width of the future window sill and the ebb, because you can arrange it in such a way that the ebb will cover the entire window, but there is nowhere to even put a vase inside. Fastening plastic windows according to GOST requires adding another 50 mm to the width of the window sill and ebb, but here it all depends on the characteristics of your home. Please note: the radiator should only close halfway.

Tip: keep in mind that when installed, the window sill and ebb will extend under the window by about 3 centimeters, as well as into the walls by 4 cm, so it is better to buy them with a length reserve of at least 70 mm and make them a little wider. You can always shorten it on the spot, the overpayment there is not much, but making something longer won’t work.

Dismantling old windows along with the frame and preparing for work

You measured the opening, bought everything necessary materials and are ready to install, but there is one in front of you little problem, which must be removed using a hacksaw and hammer or - frame. There are 2 options for removing it - loyal and interesting. The first involves prolonged loosening, cutting and removal of the frame using a hacksaw, nail puller or pry bar. The second method involves active work with an ax or hammer.

Next, you need to remove the mounting foam, insulation, cement and other construction wonders that were used to secure the old window. A vacuum cleaner will not hurt, since installing windows yourself requires cleanliness. better adhesion materials. You can blow out the dust with a compressor or immediately go through the sink, if possible.

Tip: polyurethane foam adheres much better to a damp surface, so heat loss will be much less after it hardens. It penetrates the structure of the material and does not interact with the layer of dust that covers the concrete or brick base.

Of course, a big advantage would be to knock out the window moderately carefully so that Basic structure was not damaged. The smoother the window opening, the easier it will be for you to align everything and secure it.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows in a brick house

There is no need to break your back - call 1 auxiliary worker who will help lift this difficult structure and support it while you perform all the necessary operations with the frame and double-glazed windows. Don't shoot protective film from the window until the installation is completed. If there are sashes, you can remove them, it will be easier, and then put them on after the frame is level. Now let's look at the step-by-step installation of a plastic window.

STEP 1: install wooden blocks on the bottom and sides. Using a hacksaw, cut wooden rectangles 20 mm high and 5 centimeters long (the dimensions may be slightly larger, depending on the desired gap). It would be advisable to secure the bars (glue, foam) so that they do not all fall out while you are placing the window in the opening.

Important: wedges and bars must be installed near future anchors. This way, you can avoid frame deflection when installing plastic windows with your own hands, since measuring the pressure of the tool and tightening is almost impossible. You can screw an anchor or screw directly through wooden block, but no further than 30 cm from it.

STEP 2: insert the frame into the opening. First, simply place it on the bars, then adjust and move the wedges until the entire structure is level. Measure it not only horizontally along the window sill, but also vertically using a plumb line along the slopes.

STEP 3: make markings for anchors or screws. You need to insert a nail through the holes in the window frame and draw a mark. Next, take a drill and make holes around the entire perimeter of the window at the locations of the marks, drill directly through the frame, or you can remove it for convenience - at your discretion.

STEP 4: installation of plastic windows according to GOST. We install the frame in place, measure the technological indentations of 20 mm, according to building codes, then we “bait” the anchors without tightening them too much. If you wish to use anchor plates, then you simply need to bend them so that they touch the window. If fastener protrudes 1 mm above the plastic - this is the optimal tightening. You can twist it a little harder so that it is flush with the surface. Check everything with a level after screwing, loosen or tighten the sides according to the readings of the device.

Correction: the instructions for installing plastic windows with your own hands are slightly different from those described above, if you have wooden house. Several operations are automatically eliminated, since fastening is carried out with ordinary long screws, which are screwed through the frame into wooden beams or logs. But they must be tightened with little effort and evenly along the entire perimeter of the frame so that it does not deform anywhere.

STEP 5: blow out everything with foam. Before installation plastic window sills It is necessary to fill everything around the perimeter of the window with foam, sparing no material (the excess can be cut off later). Make sure that it does not get on the window - it is difficult to wash. Wait 30 minutes and place the window sill under the window to a depth of 25 mm. Can be done minimum slope, let's say 3 degrees. Blow foam under the windowsill over its entire area so that there are no voids.

IMPORTANT: make grooves or grooves in the wall in advance for the window sill and remember that it is needed 8 centimeters longer than the window opening (it will extend 25 mm under the window and about 4 centimeters into the wall on the right and left).

At this step, the installation of plastic window sills ends; now you need to place 4 jars of cucumbers evenly across the entire window sill (so that it hardens evenly) and let the window rest from you for 3 days so that the foam finally hardens. You can put 3 bricks, it doesn’t matter, the main thing is to apply pressure of 10 kg or more. At an air temperature of +25, hardening will take 40 hours, but if it is cold and wet, then you should wait a little longer.

Do-it-yourself installation of ebbs and slopes on plastic windows

It is very easy to secure the ebb. We calculate its dimensions in exactly the same way as for the window sill, the only difference is a large slope from the window, so that the water does not linger and disappears immediately after entering. Fastening can be done with polyurethane foam or ordinary self-tapping screws; the ebb is screwed to the stand profile (the one on which the entire window stands). Do-it-yourself installation of the low tide can be considered complete; nothing else is needed, except to seal the gap between the low tide and the plastic with silicone if desired.

Now we smoothly move on to the slopes. They must be beautiful and thermally efficient, so we (and not only us) recommend using sandwich panels for this purpose (you can use drywall - it’s cheaper). If you think that it is very difficult to install a slope on a plastic window with your own hands, then you are mistaken. We take tape and foam. We blow out the entire sidewall or top with foam, lean the slope and tape the sandwich panel to the walls e. Seal the seam between the window and the panel with silicone or another miracle device that prevents heat loss and does not allow moisture to pass through.

Now all that remains is to install the fittings and blinds on the plastic windows with your own hands and you can start using the structure in 30 hours. It is necessary to wait until the polyurethane foam polymerizes and does not deform the sandwich panel and other elements of the plastic window.

And by tradition, we suggest watching a good video of installing a window with your own hands; it describes the process in detail and clearly shows all the fasteners: