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How to make a stove from a barrel with your own hands. A simple heating furnace from a barrel in a vertical loading

An old metal barrel of 200 liters is an excellent material for making a simple potbelly stove. The resulting stove is suitable for heating any non-residential premises, from garages to outbuildings. The stove from a 200-liter barrel has a simple design and does not cause difficulties even for novice craftsmen. Let's understand the features of this simple heater and discuss the assembly instructions.

Benefits of a barrel stove

When assembling homemade stoves, artisans often use old gas cylinders or sheet metal. It is problematic to get both, and even almost for free. To the greatest extent, this applies to sheet iron, which is most often simply bought. Barrels of 200 liters are more affordable raw materials for the construction of heating equipment.

200 liters is quite a decent volume. A large amount of firewood will fit in a firebox organized in a barrel, which is necessary for the implementation of long burning. There will also be room for a large ash pan. In other words, an old metal barrel will still serve for the benefit of a person, providing him with warmth and comfort.

A barrel stove is an excellent solution for heating non-residential premises of any type. It will fit in the garage, give warmth to a small workshop, and allow you to heat the basement. Its assembly does not take much time, but you need to pay attention to the choice of source material. The selected barrel should not be rusted through - the thicker the metal, the longer the stove itself will last. Therefore, there is no need to save on assembly materials.

Other advantages of a barrel stove:

A volume of 200 liters is enough for the normal burning of the flame in the furnace.
The ability to organize a capacious and easy-to-clean ash pan.
Unpretentiousness to fuel - the furnace will be able to work on everything that burns.
Easy to operate.

A potbelly stove from a 200-liter barrel is in some demand among those who need inexpensive and easy-to-assemble heating equipment.

There are also disadvantages:

High case temperature.
Low efficiency - part of the heat simply flies into the chimney.
Thin walls - durable furnaces require metal 3-4 mm thick.

You should not try to heat the stove from the barrel with coal - it has a high combustion temperature and can thin the metal.

Assembly sequence

A barrel stove is easy to assemble and requires an equally complex tool. We will need:

angle grinder (grinder);
welding machine;
a hacksaw for working with small parts (it’s more convenient);
Grinder.

Supporting materials will also be required:

pieces of sheet metal - for scalding doors;
door hinges;
metal for the chimney;
metal for legs;
brick and cement for organizing the base for the stove;
fittings for creating a grate.

Prepare cutting wheels for the grinder and electrodes for the welding machine (if electric welding is used).

Making a potbelly stove from a barrel is not the most difficult task, the main thing is to follow our instructions exactly and observe safety precautions.

Initial barrel preparation

Making a stove from a barrel with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. The first step is to prepare our "source". A barrel of 200 liters must be cleaned of paint (if it has been painted). Those who neglect this step will have to inhale the aromas of burning paint. Our task is to make the barrel shiny, and at the same time get rid of rusty spots. Use a grinder to grind metal.

In the next step, arm yourself with a grinder and carefully cut out two rectangular windows in the barrel. Work with the tool carefully, as the cut out rectangles will be useful to us as doors. We process the edges with the same grinder or file so that they are not so sharp. The door for the firebox should be larger than the door for the ash pan. In addition, the ash pan door will serve as a blower.

Cut off the top of the barrel completely. We will need to assemble and place a grate inside the 200 liter barrel. Therefore, the absence of a top cover will ensure the convenience of its installation.

Assembling the grate

For the manufacture of a grate, use fittings. The diameter of a standard barrel of 200 liters is 571.5 mm. Therefore, the lattice must be smaller in diameter in order to pass through the internal volume. At the level between the firebox door and the ash pan door, we make arbitrary protrusions - the grate itself will rest on them. For example, you can make them from sheet metal and weld them to the inner walls.

The potbelly stove from the barrel will generate quite a lot of ash falling into the ash pan. Therefore, it must be large - the recommended height is 100-130 mm. Do not make the door too narrow, otherwise there will be problems with ease of cleaning.

We prepare the doors

The doors of our stove will be clearly smaller than the boot and ash windows. Therefore, they must be scalded around the perimeter with pieces of sheet iron about 20 mm wide. We also saw out handles from sheet iron, rivet or fasten them to the doors. At the next stage, we carefully weld the hinges, after which we weld the doors to the stove itself - now our 200-liter barrel is almost ready to serve a second life.

Making the foundation

For our 200 liter barrel, it is desirable to make legs. Adapt pieces of thick reinforcement for this or make them from metal corners 2-3 mm thick. The optimal distance from the bottom of the barrel to the base is 100 mm.

Intending to make a potbelly stove from a barrel, think about the place of its installation. You will need a reliable non-combustible base. It is best to make it out of brick or pour a concrete screed. The space in front of the stove is made of non-combustible material - for example, from sheet iron laid here. If the floor in the heated room is concrete, just lay a sheet of iron on it and place a barrel on it.

We prepare the chimney

The design of the stove from a barrel of 200 liters implies the obligatory presence of a chimney. It would be nice if it was removable - a pipe-in-pipe system is suitable for this. That is, we weld a pipe of a smaller diameter with a height of 100-150 mm to the stove, and already we put on the main chimney pipe of a larger diameter on it. You can also use ready-made factory collapsible chimneys. The bottom line is that the stove can be quickly cleaned by removing it from the base - a volume of 200 liters does not mean at all that it will never become clogged with soot and soot.

Final assembly of the furnace

We take our 200-liter barrel with legs welded to it, install it on a pre-prepared base. Inside we lower the grate. At the next stage, we weld the top cover with a short chimney. Next, we put the main chimney on it and go for firewood.

Put some paper and small wood chips on the grate, kindle a fire, achieve a steady flame. Now start laying the main firewood - it is best if they are dry. Wet logs burn worse, and even smoke, clogging the chimney. Close the firebox door and adjust the intensity of combustion with the blower. Do not forget to periodically add more and more portions of fuel until the set temperature is reached.

Structural modernization

A barrel with an internal volume of 200 liters can produce a decent amount of heat. But the heat transfer efficiency will be small. Part of the thermal energy will completely fly away into the pipe. Therefore, the stove needs to be slightly retrofitted. This is done in the following ways:

These steps will help you make your barrel stove more efficient. If you don’t find a sample for 200 liters, you can take 150 liters - there will be a little less space in it, so you will have to throw firewood more often.

Brick walls are being built to the right, left and behind the barrel - they will work as a kind of heat accumulator.
The stove is scalded with round pipes of small diameter (for example, ¾ inch) - a convector is formed, which will cause air circulation in the room and effectively remove heat from the stove.
By extending the horizontal part of the chimney - run it through the entire room in order to take away the maximum thermal energy from the combustion products.

We will offer you some more ideas for upgrading the stove from a 200 liter barrel. For example, you can line its inside with refractory bricks. To organize the hob, use the cast-iron insert in the top cover. Try to make a stove with increased heat dissipation - weld two barrels together in height. There are also modifications with a horizontal arrangement of barrels.

Interesting potbelly stove with stone masonry

A barrel of 200 liters can serve as the basis for another interesting stove - with masonry inside. To assemble it you will need:

the barrel itself;
thick metal wire or fittings;
large rounded river stones;
chimney pipes.

There is no ash pan in such a stove, so there will be some difficulties with cleaning. We immediately recommend that you make the firebox door at a level with the bottom of the barrel - it is more convenient to rake out the ashes. We make a kind of grate from reinforcement or thick metal wire. Only here it will fulfill a different role - it will support the masonry.

To assemble the stove, it is necessary to cut off the top cover from a 200-liter barrel and equip it with a pipe for connecting the chimney. In the lower part we cut out a door for laying firewood with a height of 150-200 mm. We fix a grate at a height of 250 mm, on which we pile stones to the top. Please note that it is precisely large stones that are needed so that combustion products pass quietly in the space between them.

Colleagues, hands suddenly itch (growing you know where)!
There is a need to sometimes burn a certain amount of combustible waste in the garden. Cardboard, branches, sticks and other rubbish. To use a brick barbecue for this purpose is not comme il faut. A barrel was previously used, but it has two disadvantages:
1. Too much flame, sheaves of sparks and smoldering leaves flying away with streams of warm air.
2. Too nervous neighbors, whom point 1 is too annoying.
I thought about converting an already available 200-liter barrel with a lid into a kind of garden stove for recycling various cardboard, branches, sticks and other rubbish. The main idea of the idea consists of the following:
A. Eliminate the howl of neighbors by eliminating streams of sparks and flying leaves.
B. Put on the site not a charred barrel, but a decent looking device.
D. Dispose of combustible fuel as efficiently as possible so that as little ash as possible remains.
At first there were ideas:
I. Make a gas-generating furnace (pyrolysis) out of a barrel. But all the models of stoves that I found on the Internet are too tricky to maintain, you need to load them in full, give firewood with lids, etc. I want to give up the idea, although I really like it, but I didn’t find any implementation options without dust and noise. In principle, there is only one version of the furnace on the network, but it is called differently.
II. Make a vertical oven. There are only two advantages here - you can easily pile branches on top, and it will take up little space. But it seems to me the approach is not very interesting.
III. Make a vertical tandoor oven. Cover the inside of the barrel with a brick with fireclay, sprinkle with pebbles. I want a tandoor, but I feel that there will be problems with efficiency, sparks, and a small volume of the furnace.
IV. Make a horizontal oven with a pipe. If then my hands itch again, then I’ll put a tandoor on top.
So far I figured out this option for the stove:
Everything seems to be simple. The only thing that fundamentally worries me now is how to make an oven. With grate or without?
The advantage of the option with a grate is that all the ashes remain in the furnace, but at the same time, the volume of the furnace decreases slightly and the amount of work is greater. If you make a furnace without a grate, then in the lower part of the furnace, I will weld several round holes, air will be sucked into the furnace through them. It is easier to do this, but efficiency may decrease due to the fact that some of the firewood will not be saturated with fresh air and they will not burn out completely. Yes, and the soil under the stove will be too saturated with ash, which can adversely affect plants growing nearby.
Now in detail on the stove itself. I will be glad to comments:
1. The firebox door will be made in the bottom of the barrel. I plan to cut around the perimeter with an electric jigsaw with metal files. I would cut it out with pleasure with a grinder, but I’ll never know how to saw a grinder in a circle and evenly. The lower part is sawn flush with the wall of the barrel, so that it would be convenient to remove the ash later. The sawn-out part sits on the door hinge and is screwed to the upper, non-cut-out part. That is, a small gap will remain around the perimeter of the door, about 1-1.5 mm.
2. The current cover will be put on from the side of the pipe and either clamped with a native clamp (if I find it), or stupidly welded (if I don’t find it). Better of course with a clamp, then you can do cleaning from both sides.
3. What is the height of the pipe?
4. I plan to make the grate from thin reinforcement by cutting it into slices, followed by welding into a mesh.
5. At what height should the grate be made? (if at all?)
6. What should be the ratio between diameter (pipe capacity) and fresh air intake holes? 1 to 1? Or should the fence be calculated less, in order to compensate for leakage due to leakage?
7. Welding the metal of the barrel with goats or something else (suddenly needed) given the thickness of the metal of the barrel ~ 1-1.5mm? I haven't made it this thick yet. Will there be holes? Or is it better not to take risks and rely on threaded connections and gravity?
8. I plan to paint the stove outside with heat-resistant paint. There are options up to 600 degrees based on silica for adequate money. But, interestingly, inside to paint or not? The purpose of painting is to give an aesthetic appearance and protection against increased corrosion.

A potbelly stove from a 200 liter barrel can be installed in different rooms: in a garage, in a country house, a warehouse, etc. Its main advantage is a high heating rate. It quickly heats the air in the room and cools down just as quickly due to the properties of the metal case.

Collapse

The most popular home-made model is considered to be a potbelly stove from a barrel. For its manufacture and installation does not require expensive materials and special skills. It is arranged so simply that it can be easily assembled by hand.

About design

A home-made potbelly stove from a barrel has a height of 89 cm, a diameter of 60 cm and a weight of 21 - 25 kg, has a blind hearth and a fairly high chimney. Sawdust, shavings, dry firewood and fuel briquettes are used as fuel. Due to the rather thin metal walls and the height of the body, the efficiency of such a furnace does not exceed 15 - 20%.

The principle of its operation is quite simple: the wood is laid in the firebox and ignited. When burning, firewood releases a large amount of thermal energy, which is transferred to the body of the potbelly stove. The heated metal gives off heat to the surrounding atmosphere and heats the room. The amount of heat is increased by a long chimney, through which hot smoke moves to the street.

Expert opinion

Nikolai Davydov

Baker with 15 years of experience

For the correct flow of gas-dynamic processes in a potbelly stove from a 200 l barrel, the blower should be located as low as possible. Otherwise, the lower part will take a significant part of the thermal energy and redirect it to the ground. If the blower needs to be placed higher, then you can wall up the lower part of the tank with a brick.

Choosing a quality barrel

For the manufacture of a stove stove, you can use any steel barrel used in the petrochemical, paint and varnish, chemical, metallurgical industries for storing and transporting technical products:

bulk - oils, solvents, paints, diesel fuel, sodium liquid glass;

pasty - thick lubricants, bitumen;

loose - caustic soda, various plasticizers.

They are produced in two types - with open and closed tops, they also differ in the thickness of the bottom, lid and shell.

Any of these containers can be adapted for a potbelly stove, if you first clean and rinse its inner surface well. However, the thinner the walls of the container, the faster they will burn out, and the stove will fail. Therefore, you need to choose a product with a metal thickness of more than 2 mm for a potbelly stove.

Expert opinion

Nikolai Davydov

Baker with 15 years of experience

Well, the best option is a stainless steel barrel. High-alloy stainless steel is the most resistant to high temperatures in the fuel combustion zone, which means that the furnace made from it will last longer.

Additional materials

For the construction of a heater, in addition to the 200-liter metal barrel itself, the following additional building materials and furnace fittings will be required:

small steel sheet

fireclay brick for a vertical model or a reflector for a horizontal one;

a small section of the channel;

steel pipes for the chimney;

fittings for the grate;

sand, clay for making mortar;

asbestos cord;

furnace door;

blower door;

basalt wool for chimney insulation.

Required Tools

In order to qualitatively build a potbelly stove from a 200 liter barrel with your own hands, you need to prepare a minimum set of tools, consisting of:

welding machine;

grinders or hacksaws for metal;

standard hammer, pliers and chisel;

steel brush;

drills with a set of drills;

measuring instruments: tape measure, level and plumb.

We also need personal protective equipment for welding: a protective mask, dielectric gloves, overalls made of dense fabric and closed shoes.

Crafting Instructions

During the operation of the stove, its body is strongly heated, therefore, such a heating device must be placed on a monolithic fire-resistant surface. It can be a layer of concrete, asphalt concrete, a metal sheet, or just earth. The stove must have its own chimney; connecting the appliance to the chimney of other heating devices is prohibited.

There are two options for assembling such a furnace: with a horizontal and vertical arrangement of the barrel.

Vertical model

Vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

Scheme of a vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

The manufacturing process of a vertical furnace model looks like this:

Prepare an opening on the side surface of the barrel to enable loading firewood;

The door can be bought in advance or the cut-out part of the wall can be adapted: hinges and a handle can be welded to it, which provides convenience when closing and opening the combustion chamber;

A little lower than the furnace door, cut another hole for mounting the blower door. For the manufacture of the blower itself, a thick-walled pipe is used, cut along. It should be able to move along the metal rails, but not be removed completely;

At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the tank, install grates - a metal plate with holes or a welded cellular reinforcement structure. For their fixation, an ordinary steel corner is used.
Option 1 - mesh grid

Option 2 - fittings

From the bottom of the barrel, you need to weld metal legs or simply install the structure on bricks;

The role of the hob will be played by steel wire, which can be welded to the top cover of the oven;

Brick lining (optional)

To protect the walls of the container from burning through, the inner surface of the furnace can be additionally lined with refractory bricks, giving it a semicircular shape with the help of a grinder. Masonry should be carried out on a furnace solution, which includes 1 part of oily clay and 2 parts of sand. The mixture is made with a minimum amount of water and should have a thick consistency;

Next, we make a chimney (more details below).

A hole for a chimney with a diameter of at least 15 cm is cut out on the side of the tank in its upper part (or on the side). The height of the pipe must be at least 4 m. When installing it, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

it is advisable not to install the pipe strictly vertically, the presence of horizontal and inclined sections increases the amount of heat received, however, the number of turns should not exceed 3 times;

the bending angle should be 30 degrees, and only in exceptional cases reach 45 degrees;

horizontally located chimney elements cannot be longer than 1 m;

to prevent the appearance of condensate, the part of the chimney facing the street should be insulated with basalt wool;

to reduce the load from the appliance body, the chimney must be attached to the wall.

On the chimney of the potbelly stove, you can install a rotary valve or a valve moving along the guides. With the help of this element, it is possible to adjust the intensity of the removal of heated smoke and completely block the chimney during the period when the stove is not heated.

Horizontal model

The efficiency of a potbelly stove stove from a 200-liter barrel will be higher if it is made and placed horizontally.

Potbelly stove from a barrel - horizontal version

Scheme of a horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The algorithm of actions for horizontal placement of the tank will be as follows:

Nikolai Davydov

Baker with 15 years of experience

Flammable things should not be placed near the stove, and when moving, beware of accidental contact of exposed skin with its body in order to avoid burns. The room where the potbelly stove is installed should be well ventilated, at least naturally.

Operation features

During the operation of the furnace, it is necessary to alternate the cycles of its kindling, including:

bookmark fuel;

ignition of the furnace;

directly furnace process with space heating;

cleaning of ash products from the furnace and blower section.

The most responsible stage can be attributed to the stage of laying fuel, which must be laid in a certain order to facilitate the ignition process. First you need to put paper and thin dry firewood on the grate, light a fire and close the door.

After the kindling material has ignited, larger logs can be added. The wood must be loaded carefully to prevent the fire from dying out. At the end of the full laying of firewood, you need to tightly close the furnace door.

The draft in the potbelly stove can be adjusted with a valve on the chimney or by slightly opening the blower door.

In the process of burning the furnace, do not touch its body, so as not to burn yourself.

To restore draft after a long period of burning, it is necessary to periodically disassemble the chimney and clean its elements from accumulated soot.

Conclusion

A potbelly stove is a fairly simple heating device, and it is for this quality that it is considered a brilliant invention. How to make a potbelly stove from a barrel can be understood from the instructions and build it yourself. The potbelly stove will bring considerable benefits: it will solve the problems of heating outbuildings and country houses remote from the central gas supply lines. In addition, it is easy to transport and install, if necessary, it can move to another room.

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Take a look at the prototype first, if I may say so about the factory long-burning boiler Stropuva of Lithuanian manufacturers.
In the self-made long-burning wood-burning stove we are describing, the principle of burning wood or other fuel from above is borrowed from the barrel, with the fire lowering down as the wood burns, which just gives the effect of prolonging the process. It was made for the first time a few years ago by a man named bubafonya ( bubafonja-his nickname on the forum where he presented his idea). Therefore, his design and stoves made by others following his example were called “bubafoni oven” or simply “bubafonya” in Internet discussions. The stove is really interesting and it is worth studying in more detail how the master created it. At the end of the article, videos with bubaphones of other masters will also be posted.

We make a stove from a barrel with our own hands

We will break the whole work into successive steps.

First we make the body:

1. At the top of the receptacle, remove the weld, align the sharp edges. So, we got a cylinder and a cover for it.

2. Using a hammer, we bend the edges of the structure inward, and the upper element outward.

3. Turn the cover over and put it on the cylinder.

4. Using a chisel in the middle of the cover, we cut an opening into which we insert the blower pipe. The hole diameter is 102 mm. This is quite enough for the free passage of a rolled metal product.

If the barrel had a cork, the hole needs to be welded. However, some prefer to leave it, creating the possibility of controlling the combustion process: unscrew the plug and look inside.

5. In the upper part of the barrel, we cut out an opening where we weld a piece of a chimney 25 cm long. An overflow damper must be installed inside the product.

For better rigidity, the edges of the pancake must be bent. So it will not deform under the influence of high temperatures.

In the middle of the circle, it is required to cut a hole into which the blower pipe is welded.

The channels are attached to the underside of the pancake.

The air supply device is ready. Now we place it inside the cylinder.

Construction assembly

In the upper part of the blowing pipe, an adjusting damper is installed, the diameter of which coincides with the size of the rolled metal product. The threaded stud is welded into the pipe. It needs to be placed vertically. On the side of the damper, it is required to cut a hole in such a way that the valve, falling on the pin, tightly closes the pipe.

After the damper is installed, it is required to tighten it with a wing nut. By loosening this element, it can be moved. Loosening and tightening the fastener allows you to adjust the flow of air masses into the furnace.

The last step is to install the cover. Now the furnace structure is ready for operation.

Chimney installation

At the final stage, a channel with a diameter of 150 mm is installed. It is necessary to adhere to this value, otherwise there is a possibility of incomplete removal of combustion products.

A pipe with a length of more than 5 m provides good traction. It should be installed directly next to the oven. It is desirable that she stand on her feet. The lower part of the pipe is welded.

To provide for the drainage of condensate formed in the pipe, a ball valve must be welded under the knee. It is worth noting that the presence of this element is a prerequisite. If the condensate freezes, the weld seam may break. In addition, there is a possibility of liquid entering the combustion device.

How to drown

When the Bubafonya stove is assembled from the barrel, you can start heating the room. How to do it right? It is required to remove the cover, take out the device that supplies air, and put firewood, but not above the lower edge of the chimney elbow. If the logs are placed in a vertical position, they will fit more, and even large firewood will burn to the end.

We lay a layer of chips on top, on them - a rag or paper, which needs to be lightly poured with kerosene.

After the fuel is laid, it is necessary to put a pancake on the air supply device, and then the stove cover. Next, we open the blower damper, throw inside the pipe supplying air, a set fire to a rag or paper. It will not be possible to ignite with matches because of the strong traction that extinguishes them.

When the firewood flares up well, it will begin to crackle. Then it is required to completely close the blower damper, which will provide the unit with a long burning.

How to legally burn garbage in the country

Now that we have dealt with the theory, let's find out what places and methods of burning garbage are available to an ordinary summer resident who wants to get rid of branches, leaves and other plant debris in compliance with the laws.

Waste burning barrel

Most often, summer residents use metal barrels with or without a bottom to burn garbage. It is not difficult to get such a container - they are inexpensive, and they can work for several seasons. Of course, in a couple of years the barrel will burn out and, according to the Ministry of Emergency Situations, will become unsuitable for burning garbage, but in this case it will always be possible to buy a new one.

Such a barrel should be installed 25 m from buildings and groups of trees, it is not necessary to prepare a mineralized fire strip, but something else will still have to be taken care of additionally. Firstly, according to the norms, the bottom of the barrel will have to be cut off and installed on a hole dug in the ground. Secondly, it is necessary to prepare a lid that can close the entire barrel and stop the draft. And finally, you will need to have water or sand on hand to quickly extinguish the fire.

Homemade garbage incinerator

For some, the barrel seems too sloppy and short-lived option. In this case, home-made metal incinerators made of steel tanks, used gas cylinders, metal circles and other materials are used. The main task of such a furnace is to be roomy and airtight.

The easiest way to make a stove is by welding a capacious box with a lid, blower and chimney from thick metal sheets. You will need to install it on brick or block supports, and dig a hole under the bottom.

Stone or brick incinerator

A stone incinerator is durable, aesthetic, multifunctional and spacious. True, it will not work to move it, so immediately think about in which part of the site you do not plan to build buildings over time.

However, if you already have a stone oven, for example, in a summer kitchen or a bath, then you can burn plant residues in it, while preparing dinner or heating the room.

Branded incinerator

The easiest (but not cheapest) way is to buy and install a branded incinerator with a chimney. Similar stoves can be found in hardware and garden stores or at construction markets, and they cost from 9,000 to 16,000 rubles. There are also portable options without a chimney - they will cost the summer resident only 5000-7000 rubles.

Such a furnace allows not only to burn garbage on the site, but also to conveniently remove the ash, do without a fire strip, or change the location of the furnace several times a season. By the way, on some models there is also a special tile for cooking.

Waste incineration pit

If you don’t have a barrel or stove, and you need to burn the garbage, prepare a special pit according to the recommendations of the Ministry of Emergencies.

Move away from buildings and groups of trees at 50 m.
Dig a hole with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm.
Clear the area within a radius of 10 m from the pit from dry wood, logging residues, dry grass and other combustible materials.
Prepare a 40 cm wide firebreak along the edge of the cleared area (remove the sod or fill it with sand).
Prepare tools and water to put out the fire and then start burning garbage in the pit.

Of course, this is a rather laborious method, complicated by the fact that it is difficult to find a site on the territory of summer cottages where nothing has been built and nothing is growing. Therefore, a pit where garbage is burned can be organized together with neighbors, in a wasteland.

As you can see, there is no ban on burning garbage, there are only rules that must be followed. It is possible to equip a place in accordance with the requirements of the law in one day, and, having spent this time, you will look into the eyes of the fire inspector and neighbors with a clear conscience.

Barrel for burning garbage in the country

In practice, three variants of such furnace devices made from barrels that do not have a bottom have been used.

In the first option, first, a small fire is made on a metal pallet from some kind of dry waste (birch bark, wood chips, etc.). After our fire flares up, bricks or stones are placed next to it, on which our barrel-pipe without a bottom is placed on top. From below, air enters the holes formed, which helps combustion. Waste burning is intense and it is constantly necessary to ensure that our flame does not rise too high and does not throw sparks into the area. But there is also a drawback in this option, with each use it is necessary to put and remove the barrel.
The second option based on the same barrel is simpler, it does not have the disadvantages of the first option. For its device, you first need to prepare the site. Pour a layer of sand 10-15 centimeters thick on the chosen place, lay a metal sheet on it, on which a fence-support is made of bricks in the form of the letter P. On top we lay a metal grate-grate, and at the end we install our barrel (of course, also without a bottom) . So from above we fill our stove with waste, and we arrange a fire from below, between the bricks. The resulting ash, after burning the waste, we calmly rake out from below. During rains, so that the ashes do not get wet, the top of the barrel must be closed with a lid.
The third version of our device is a little close to the second, it is only necessary to cut a window about 450x200 mm in size at the bottom of the barrel, and additionally punch several side holes for blowing air. The bottom of the barrel also rests on bricks with a grate, which can be made from perforated metal sheet. Unlike the second option, here 40x60mm holes are cut out on top of the barrel and a metal lid is installed, where you can pre-dry the garden waste. All these minor additions provide more favorable conditions for the combustion of garbage than the first or second option. And here the combustion occurs more evenly and intensively. At the same time, the time required for burning garbage is significantly reduced.

Whoever wants to tinker can make it more functional and more beautiful. If you do it well and for a long time, you can use a piece of used water pipe with a large diameter and weld a reliable stove that will last you for many years. One thing - it's too expensive!

Garden fireplaces and waste incinerators (garden waste)

I would especially like to note - these are garden fireplaces, which can be increasingly found in our garden plots. Such fireplaces perform not only a utilitarian function, but also a decorative one, thereby decorating. The designs of such fireplaces are very diverse, but, as a rule, each of them has three nodes that ensure safety in operation. This is a platform for burning waste, well protected from different winds, an arched vault and a high chimney that reliably extinguishes sparks.

In conclusion about burning garbage in the country

By the way, in many regions, employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations often began to conduct raids and fine for burning household waste in the garden that emit TOXIC substances! Remember this and be careful!

However, it is better to dispose of garden waste in other ways, for example:

branches, foliage and other organic matter will go well for warm beds;
diseased plants or with signs of damage can be buried in a separate pit, if possible, then outside the site;
cardboard, paper - can be used for mulching beds;
well, polyethylene, plastic, cans and other trifles can be taken to the city, in a bag and disposed of in a garbage container.

These garden tricks are used by our gardeners to get rid of garden waste.

And remember, NEVER BURN PLASTIC PRODUCTS, as they release toxic substances that are very harmful to the environment, and your body too!

How do you dispose of any trash in your yards?

Interesting potbelly stove with stone masonry

A barrel of 200 liters can serve as the basis for another interesting stove - with masonry inside. To assemble it you will need:

the barrel itself;
thick metal wire or fittings;
large rounded river stones;
chimney pipes.

Please note that it is precisely large stones that are needed so that combustion products pass quietly in the space between them.

The stove will need a solid non-combustible base with a metal sheet in front of the firebox - it will be quite weighty, so the legs must be strong or absent altogether. The barrel is placed on the base before stones are placed in it. Otherwise, you won't be able to move it later. After installing the stove in a regular place, weld the cover and connect the chimney - you can start kindling. To improve traction, it is recommended to drill several holes with a drill with a diameter of 4-5 mm - air will be sucked through them.

Ways to burn garden waste

To date, there are several ways to incinerate such waste.

Burning garden waste on an open fire

The first and predominant way of our summer residents is to burn garden waste on an open fire. This is especially noticeable in early spring and autumn. On garden plots, blazing fires can be regularly found, and columns of smoke rising high above the ground.

BUILDING AN OPEN FIRE IS VERY DANGEROUS, and also harmful to the soil, because under the influence of high temperatures from a fire, the earth loses its fertility, all soil microorganisms that are in the combustion center die.

And if you do not have the opportunity to make a fire in another place, then still arrange it on a thick metal pallet, which is best raised above the ground with the help of some kind of lining: stones, bricks and other improvised materials.

Do not start a large fire right away, as there is a high probability of losing control over it.
It is better to toss in small portions, but more often, and the combustion will be more efficient this way.
In windy weather, it is better to refuse this event.

Burning garden waste in an old barrel

The second method is devoid of the disadvantages of the first and consists in the fact that a wide variety of containers are used for burning, which have already served their time and can no longer be used for their intended purpose.

The most suitable option for waste incineration is an old metal barrel.
Such a container will take up little space.
It can be installed in a permanent place, away from trees and various buildings.

In order to use the barrel, it must first be prepared. Everything is simple, the bottom is removed with a chisel, and then all uneven and torn edges are bent with a hammer.

Crafting Instructions

There are two options for assembling such a furnace: with a horizontal and vertical arrangement of the barrel.

Vertical model

Vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

Scheme of a vertical potbelly stove from a barrel

The manufacturing process of a vertical furnace model looks like this:

Prepare an opening on the side surface of the barrel to enable loading firewood;

The door can be bought in advance or the cut-out part of the wall can be adapted: hinges and a handle can be welded to it, which provides convenience when closing and opening the combustion chamber;

At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the tank, install grates - a metal plate with holes or a welded cellular reinforcement structure. For their fixation, an ordinary steel corner is used.

Option 1 - mesh grating

Option 2 - fittings

From the bottom of the barrel, you need to weld metal legs or simply install the structure on bricks;

The role of the hob will be played by steel wire, which can be welded to the top cover of the oven;

Brick lining (optional)

Next, we make a chimney (more details below).

the bending angle should be 30 degrees, and only in exceptional cases reach 45 degrees;

horizontally located chimney elements cannot be longer than 1 m;

to prevent the appearance of condensate, the part of the chimney facing the street should be insulated with basalt wool;

to reduce the load from the appliance body, the chimney must be attached to the wall.

Horizontal model

The efficiency of a potbelly stove stove from a 200-liter barrel will be higher if it is made and placed horizontally.

Potbelly stove from a barrel - horizontal version

Scheme of a horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The algorithm of actions for horizontal placement of the tank will be as follows:

Set the barrel on its side;

For the stability of the structure from the bottom of the tank, it is necessary to weld legs from a steel angle or pipes of small diameter;

In the upper part, cut an opening for laying fuel in the full width of the barrel, so that it is more convenient to get the grate and reflector;

Install a metal reflector inside the tank, which will separate the furnace section from the chimney and the grate (it can be made independently from reinforcement bars;

Cut another opening lower for airflow to enter the furnace and clean the furnace from ash, or make it a separate structure by welding an ash pan. As a result, the design will look like this:

Inside view

Weld hinges on one side of each hole and install doors of the appropriate size. For tightness, it is recommended to cover them with an asbestos-cement cord;

In the back of the tank, make a hole for the chimney and weld the pipe. Further installation of the chimney is carried out in the same way as for the vertical model.

On top of the barrel, you can also weld a sheet of metal and use it as a hob.

The final version of the design

Two barrel oven

One of the highest quality do-it-yourself barrel ovens based on the large capacities available to us. The stove for kindling firewood consists of two barrels: one for 200 liters, the second for 100 liters. A certain novelty, which not everyone will think of, is to increase heat transfer due to an additional container, the walls of which are heated by hot air rising up to the pipe. In the second barrel, the fuel burns out as well.

The stainless steel pipe is made from truck exhaust. The pipe is specially made curved to increase heat transfer to the room.

Looking at the previous video, the thought arises: what if we use the second additional barrel as an oven? The next model just implemented such an opportunity!

What does the law say about burning trash in a barrel?

Before using a barrel for burning garbage in the country, it is better to carefully study the law.

Important! Russian legislation establishes a ban on burning garbage in the city and in summer cottages (ST 20.4 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation). . Environmental services also talk about environmental damage caused by burning dried plants.

Burning plant waste, especially in spring, often leads to numerous fires, which sometimes cover vast areas and end very badly. Fires for burning grass, planted in the city, have a negative impact on many residents with hypertension, asthma and other diseases.

Environmental services are also talking about damage to the environment as a result of burning dried plants. Burning plant waste, especially in spring, often leads to numerous fires, which sometimes cover vast areas and end very badly. Fires for burning grass, planted in the city, have a negative impact on many residents with hypertension, asthma and other diseases.

Often, employees of various environmental services and fire safety inspectors carry out raids on personal plots in order to identify violators of fire safety and conduct explanatory work with them. However, many "arsonists" neglect warnings up to the moment of bringing them to administrative responsibility.

The prohibition of waste incineration is prescribed in the Federal Law "On the Protection of Atmospheric Air".

Note! It is forbidden to burn plant and other waste in open areas of summer cottages, it is also forbidden to use barrels, bins, containers for burning garbage. . For non-compliance with the provisions of the law, a citizen can be held liable with the imposition of a fine on him.

For non-compliance with the provisions of the law, a citizen may be held liable with the imposition of a fine. The following fines are provided for different categories of persons:

for ordinary citizens - 2,000 - 3,000 rubles;
for citizens who are officials - 6,000 - 15,000 rubles;
for individual entrepreneurs - 20,000 - 30,000 rubles. (or suspension of business activities for up to 90 days);
for legal entities - 150,000 - 200,000 rubles. (or suspension of activities for 90 days).

The amount of fines may vary depending on the region of the country and the time of year (for example, during the established period of the fire regime in May, the amount of fines increases for all persons).

In addition to such monetary compensation, those whose garbage burning led to the fire will have to pay certain amounts of money for the environmental damage caused.

Employees of environmental services recommend summer residents to use compost pits for the disposal of plant waste. For the disposal of other waste, it is necessary to resort to the services of specialized companies for the removal and / or processing of household waste.

About the ban on burning waste in summer cottages, about how violators are identified by service employees, they talk in this video

Having studied the legal aspects, we can say that it is still possible to burn plant debris in the country, but at the same time, all the requirements of the fire safety rules established by the Ministry of Emergencies must be met without fail, and the places for burning must be agreed with the fire department .

Structural modernization

Brick walls are being built to the right, left and behind the barrel - they will work as a kind of heat accumulator.
The stove is scalded with round pipes of small diameter (for example, ¾ inch) - a convector is formed, which will cause air circulation in the room and effectively remove heat from the stove.
By extending the horizontal part of the chimney - run it through the entire room in order to take away the maximum thermal energy from the combustion products.

Types of furnaces

Most often, you can make 2 simple models from a barrel with your own hands.

Vertical model

The barrel is installed on legs vertically.

For the door, it is advised to use the cut out part of the barrel. It is mounted on hinges that are attached to the barrel and to the door. The hinges are riveted as follows: one part on the barrel, the other on the door. Moreover, the loops are located outside. Door latch is prepared from two parts: a handle is welded onto the door, a valve is welded onto the barrel, made from corner.
Then comes the installation of grates: a metal plate with holes. Ordinary corners are suitable for fixing them. The blower should be made from a dense pipe into which a damper is inserted. She must move but not completely removed. The damper is adjustable with bolts, with a quarter turn turnover. The blower opens to maximum when ignited. Close the gate at night almost to the minimum, then the stove just heats up, but does not go out and does not increase the power of fire.
A round hole is cut in the upper part of the barrel, there welded chimney pipe. It is better to cut the hole in the form of triangles, going at the corners from the center to the beginning of the cutout. When they are bent, a hole will appear, and metal remains for riveting.
A grate is installed inside the barrel - a grate. It is needed to maintain the integrity of the bottom. The grate will prevent it from burning out and help retain heat for a long time.

Additionally, steel wire is welded on top of the barrel. She will play the role hob. You can boil the kettle, heat up or cook food. The vertical model is quite simple to manufacture and has many options for use: in the country, in a private residential building, in a summer kitchen, in a hunting or fishing lodge.

The size of firewood is selected according to the size of the firebox. The entire manufacturing process is shown in the video. The wizard shows all the stages and reveals the possible nuances that arise during the work. The video shows how a barrel that had color loses it. It will burn out quickly enough, almost immediately after the first firebox. The oven will have the color of metal. To strengthen the front, metal can be welded on top, the door can be made from a dense piece of metal.

Horizontal model

Barrel 200 liters is installed horizontally on the surface, in the prone position. It is recommended to immediately install the future oven on legs or on another support. The height of the racks on which the barrel will be installed, manufacturer chooses. It focuses on the size of the room where the potbelly stove will be used. How to make this model with your own hands, told and shown in the video. Almost most of the steps are similar to the vertical method.

In the bottom of the future furnace are drilled ash holes.
A container for ash is bent from a metal sheet - an ash pan, and welded at the bottom of the barrel. The size of the ash pan is approximately 1/3 of the height of the barrel.
At the ash container should must be a door to clean the ash, it will affect the strength of the fire in the furnace.
The doors for the furnace firebox are made of cut barrel bottoms.
The chimney pipe is installed on the back wall of the barrel or on the top. If a for pipe insertion chimney chose the top of the barrel, it is better to place it closer to the back wall.

All difficult moments or issues of installing a horizontal model can also be considered on the video. They often seek to make it with their own hands for installation in garages. In addition, the stove is easy to heat in a car with an open awning, in a tent, on the street. Such a potbelly stove will heat the area about 30 sq. m. A good model for a camping bath, for a long stay in the forest.

How to make a potbelly stove from a barrel with your own hands

Probably more than one person is wondering how to make a potbelly stove with their own hands? and how to make a potbelly stove?

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove is a small oven, which is made of metal sheets. Such a stove can heat up a room very quickly (if it is not very large), but it also cools down just as quickly after the fuel stops burning.

If we talk about their shape, then they can be very different (round, square, rectangular, conical or in the form of something), it depends on the imagination of the person who makes it.

But in this article we will focus on a hexagonal potbelly stove from a barrel. Have you ever thought about how to make a potbelly stove out of a barrel?

1 - casing (barrel)

2 - fuel tank cap

3 - outlet pipe

5 - cover handle

6 - oven

7 - damper

8 - firebox

9 - blower compartment (ash pan)

10 - supporting bricks

11 - felt pad

12 - metal sheet.

In the picture you see a potbelly stove, in the development of which publicly available materials were used. First of all, we needed a barrel, the capacity of which is 200 liters, the height of the barrel is 850 millimeters. and the diameter is 600 millimeters. A hexagon, the side of which is equal to 290-300 millimeters. This makes it possible to install standard furnace appliances with virtually no additional work.

Such an oven is very different from many homemade ovens of the same class. It differs as follows:

the furnace has a volumetric firebox
has an increased area due to the fact that the fuel combustion chamber is hexagonal
volumetric ash pan with air regulator
volumetric oven with lining
the oven retains heat for a long time.

In addition, this oven has a good convection effect, which is the transfer of heat through the air that passes through the channels located between the fuel block and the casing.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - assembly procedure

We will cook the fuel block, therefore, in order to avoid mistakes, it is necessary to make a template that can be cut out of thick paper (cardboard) or plywood.

1 - oven

2 - lining compartment

3 - fuel tank body

4 - front panel of the blower compartment

5 - corner of the frame of the oven door

6 - upper plate of the lining compartment

7 - lining niche

8 - top stop

9 - side panel of the fuel block housing

10 - support rod

11 #8212 intermediate plate

12 - corner of the frame of the firebox door

13, 14, 15 - bottom plates of the firebox

16 - grate saddle

17 - asbestos gasket

18 - door shell

19 - side wall of the ash pan

20 - door fastening bolt

21 - bottom rack

22 - damper mounting bracket.

The template should be in the form of a regular hexagon, the sides of which are 290 millimeters. Having made a template, you will not have any problems with assembly, you will only need to assemble everything according to the template, bait, and you can start welding.

oven
lining compartment
blower compartment.

1 - bottom

It is necessary to burn garbage as far as possible from dry vegetation and combustible materials.
The hearth must not be left unattended.
Do not get carried away with burning plastic and polyethylene: combustion products emit toxic substances.
Do not burn garbage in dry, hot or windy weather.
Near the hearth there should be a “set” for extinguishing a fire - sand and water.
Do not place the hearth on dry grass, boards or other flammable materials.
Access of animals and young children to the hearth should be limited.

Burning should be carried out as far as possible from buildings, dry vegetation and combustible materials.

Operation features

During the operation of the furnace, it is necessary to alternate the cycles of its kindling, including:

bookmark fuel;

ignition of the furnace;

directly furnace process with space heating;

cleaning of ash products from the furnace and blower section.

After the kindling material has ignited, larger logs can be added.

The wood must be loaded carefully to prevent the fire from dying out. At the end of the full laying of firewood, you need to tightly close the furnace door

The draft in the potbelly stove can be adjusted with a valve on the chimney or by slightly opening the blower door.

In the process of burning the furnace, do not touch its body, so as not to burn yourself.

To restore draft after a long period of burning, it is necessary to periodically disassemble the chimney and clean its elements from accumulated soot.

Method one. Upgraded barrel

Agree, the options described above using a metal barrel are hardly able to decorate your site. Therefore, you can do it differently.

First, you need a diagram of the future design, we draw it up. It will look something like this.

Preparatory activities

As for the materials, they will need more than in any of the methods already known to us. So, in addition to the barrel, you need to prepare:

5-meter metal profile (we will cut it into five equal segments);
5 meter steel bar;
a pair of loops;
1 m2 of welded mesh;
spark catcher (the diameter of its fasteners should be 11.5 centimeters);
200 grams of wire;
1.5-meter tin pipe with a diameter of 11.5 centimeters;
degreaser;
a handle on which a wooden nozzle is put on;
bolts - 6 pieces, the same number of nuts;
electric jigsaw, nail files for metal to it;
20 self-tapping screws with wide caps;
drill for metal with a diameter of 1.2 centimeters;
grinder, circles to it - emery and for metal;
Bulgarian herself;
refractory paint;
brushes (as an option - we can use a spray);
electric drill;
jigsaw.

Having prepared everything you need, we begin to build a garbage stove in the country with our own hands.

The working process

Cut out the door. To do this, draw a straight line on the bottom to which this door will be attached. We cut along the line with a grinder, while doing our best not to touch the side walls.

We make a hole in one of the corners of the formed cut. It is important that it is close to the side wall of the structure and directly on the cut line. From this point we will move forward with a jigsaw.

We insert the jigsaw saw into the hole and carefully cut out the bottom of the barrel. At the same time, we do not touch its upper part. We move extremely close to the edges of the barrel. Bulgarian, of course, will not work for this - only a jigsaw.

We make several holes in the door through which air will flow. We make them at the bottom, you can in any order.

If necessary, we clean the barrel of paint or rust using a grinder with an emery disc.

We build goats. We use five pieces of a metal profile for this. The goats will consist of a pair of crosses connected by a rod. We connect the profile strictly at an angle of 90 degrees, for which we make a pair of holes in each of them and tighten them with bolts.

We degrease and paint the barrel, while not forgetting about the elements of the goats. It is advisable to carry out these procedures in a disassembled state. We paint all the elements in several layers, after each layer we wait for the paint to dry completely.

Collecting goats. We start this a day after painting. Be sure to put washers under the nuts, securely tighten all structural elements. The resulting strength is quite enough for the barrel and the extra weight, which is garbage.
Install hinges and handles. To do this, we use a screwdriver and self-tapping screws with wide caps.

Note! It is advisable to install the hinges with an assistant, since the door will constantly fail. .

We form a hole for the chimney. At the top of the barrel, draw a circle with a diameter of 11.5 centimeters.

We equip our garbage stove to the cottage with our own hands with a chimney. We install it on the "petals" so that they are inside. After that, in several places we fasten the pipe to the “petals” with self-tapping screws so that it does not come off.

We mount the grate. We do everything as shown in the image below.

We install the cover. We fasten it with clamps, although we can resort to such a home-made construction from bolts.

As a result, we got such a design. Everything, the garbage stove is ready, you can start operating!

How to make a Russian stove with your own hands

Earlier we talked about how to make a real Russian stove on your own, in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information.

Choosing a quality barrel

For the manufacture of a stove stove, you can use any steel barrel used in the petrochemical, paint and varnish, chemical, metallurgical industries for storing and transporting technical products:

bulk - oils, solvents, paints, diesel fuel, sodium liquid glass;

pasty - thick lubricants, bitumen;

loose - caustic soda, various plasticizers.

They are produced in two types - with open and closed tops, they also differ in the thickness of the bottom, lid and shell.

Expert opinion
Nikolai Davydov
Baker with 15 years of experience

Estonian barrel in a Kuban farm

Of the thousands of personal subsidiary farms in the Kuban, the farmstead of the Filippovsky pensioners in the Kalininsky district is one of the most visited. And not only because the spouses Vera Ivanovna and Vladimir Vasilievich successfully grow a variety of fruits, vegetables, berries and all kinds of living creatures, from rabbits to ducks. The very ways of managing the household of these inhabitants of the Boikoponur farm arouse the interest of visitors - zealous and modern.

For example, drip irrigation has been established in greenhouses. And in order to save money on heating them, Estonian barrel technology is used. Once Vladimir Vasilievich read about her in a magazine. And now I remembered the advice and made a simple unit myself. The stove is made of a metal barrel with a capacity of 200 liters for 24 hours without additional loading. One load takes three small (from under bananas) boxes of firewood. Everything can burn, even raw logs, but the better the wood, the more heat.

Firewood is put into the barrel tightly, in a “well”, up to the chimney opening No. 2, where a pipe is installed to remove smoke into the chimney. If the connection in this place is loose, the gaps must be covered with clay or asbestos. Chimney draft should be checked with a match. If it is clogged, the stove will not work, the smoke will go in the opposite direction. Therefore, it is advisable to take a chimney pipe of a larger diameter, from 150 to 250 mm, made of light steel, as for drainage or ventilation.

- For ignition, - says the owner of the farmstead, - you need to put wood chips or paper near the chimney. I myself water this place (in the drawing it is indicated by the number 3) with diesel fuel. When the smoke goes into the chimney, an air pipe with a cross is placed on the firewood, as for a Christmas tree. Air enters through pipe No. 1 with a diameter of 60-100 mm and is supplied to the sides through the crosspiece. The cross can be made from a channel, or it can be made from the corner of an old bed - two pieces per side to make a channel with the ribs down. A cover made of tin is put on and welded onto the crosspiece. The diameter of the lid should be 40-50 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel to create a gap between the lid and the walls through which the smoke rises and heats the barrel. Burning is slow, heat is given to the walls of the barrel. There is no open flame, so the stove is safe to use. It can be placed in a chicken coop, greenhouse, workshop.

According to Oleg Solovyov, manager of the Kalinin branch of Rosselkhozbank, the Filippovskiys are one of the Bank's best clients in the region. Three times they took out loans for the development of their economy, which financial support helped to grow in new directions. Their farmstead can be called exemplary. By the way, the regional deputies who visited the Filippovsky farm before discussing the issue “On the state of development of small forms of management in the agro-industrial complex of the Kalinin region”, decided to generalize and promote their experience. And the chairman of the Legislative Assembly of the region, Vladimir Beketov, recommended to the deputy, the head of the Krasnodar compressor plant, to establish industrial production of a furnace based on the Estonian barrel technology. But Vladimir Vasilyevich continues to improve the design and soon, perhaps, its improved model will appear.

Dear readers, if you have invented or improved and successfully use any equipment or device in your household, share your experience. We will be happy to publish your invention in this section of the Agro-Sputnik website. Description, photos and mandatory signature of the author are ready to be accepted by e-mail This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any equipment, the Bubafonya oven has both positive and negative sides. Among the advantages are the following:

long burning period;
uncomplicated operating conditions;
simplicity of design;
low cost of fuel raw materials;
cheap components;
the availability of self-assembly of equipment, subject to the availability of skills in working with a welding machine;
easy transportation due to small size and weight.

The disadvantages include the following points:

Difficulties in care: it is inconvenient to clean the bottom of the tank, remove combustion products, namely soot, ash.
The appearance of condensate on the walls of the pipes, which leads to a decrease in efficiency.
The classic version of the furnace is characterized by insufficient heat accumulation. To correct this moment, it is necessary to construct an additional water jacket, sheathe the furnace with heat-insulating material or make brickwork.
Heating the bottom of the fuel tank requires laying non-combustible material under it or building a small foundation.
The need for ventilation in the room.

So, we examined the main points of operation and characteristics of the Bubafonya furnace. Now let's talk about how to make such a model with your own hands.

Rules for installing a potbelly stove

In order for you to have no problems with the stove and all sorts of troubles, it should be installed, adhering to certain safety rules:

The oven should only be installed on a fire-resistant surface. It is possible to make it yourself using tile tiles or using bricks. The walls located in the vicinity of the stove must also be protected from overheating. The best effect can be achieved when using specialized drywall, as well as any other non-combustible material;
In no case should flammable materials be placed near the firebox;
You should also equip an excellent ventilation system in the room in which the stove will be located. This is a very important factor, since the concentration of carbon monoxide in the room must be reduced to zero;
In order to make a potbelly stove, you need to use only high-quality material.

Video: do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a barrel

Making a potbelly stove is absolutely simple, as you have seen. For such a thing, you only need improvised materials, which are often found in the garage or in the country house of almost every person. A potbelly stove will delight the eye if all the details are thought out to the smallest detail and made very carefully.

The chimney is an important element of the entire furnace. It should consist of two parts: vertical and inclined (horizontal). In the inclined part of the chimney, the remains of smoke exhausts burn out. This part gives warmth to the room, it is calculated that almost a quarter of the heat comes from the pipe. To avoid burns from accidental contact with the chimney, it is separated by a grid or a cylinder. It is also recommended to close the pipe heat-insulating material.
A grate in a barrel design. Due to the correct approach to the grate, it is possible to transform a conventional model into a slow burning design with efficient heat transfer. To do this, it is required to remove the grate during use of the furnace. Burning will become slow and even. If you plan such actions, the grate is made of light metal or from a set of cast iron small gratings.
The simplest model of a potbelly stove is gas. A gas burner is installed in the furnace. A stove on such an economical fuel will be a profitable device. The products of combustion will fly away through the pipe, giving off heat to the room.

The appearance of the oven can be ennobled. There are several various ways:

Brick lining.
Welded metal structures for finishing the barrel base with a specific pattern, carved legs and doors.

Potbelly stoves are a fairly simple product, but it is precisely for this quality that they are considered a brilliant creation of man. After watching a video on making a furnace, you can simply repeat everything that its authors offer. DIY work beneficial to the economy, will solve many problems and problems. The stove is useful for a fisherman, a hunter and just a summer resident. It is not only easy to make, but also easy to transport. The product will not be difficult to store and install.

First furnace

Well, when almost everything is ready, we make the first kindling of the stove, because you need to check if there is traction. We threw in some firewood, unscrewed the cork, it blew, after all, we will modernize it a little later. Of course, we are already beginning to understand that in vain we did not first burn the barrel of paint.

At first, the smoke poured into the garage, since the stove was not warmed up, and the draft was too weak, later, for kindling without smoke, I warm up the air inside the stove with a gas burner, and then I kindle the wood, and there is no smell of smoke inside the garage when kindling. So in the photo the first firebox of the stove, now it will start to burn from the paint. We put in sheets of iron to protect our unfinished walls in the garage.

After 15-20 minutes, the barrel of the stove heated up, and began to burn, terribly smelling of burnt paint, all doors and gates were wide open

Everything burned somewhere within 30-40 minutes, while it became warm in the garage, even with the gates open, excess heat from the stove on the face, although it was not cold outside. somewhere around -5 degrees.

Furnace assembly procedure

From the video film you can understand how to properly assemble the potbelly stove.

Prepare a life-size cardboard product template. Sample is a hexagon.
Gather all items in drawing.
Carry out welding of the components of the furnace. There are 3 of them in the design: an oven, a lining and a blower compartment.

The lining compartment consists of a rear wall, two sidewalls, a bottom and diagonal inserts connecting the rear wall with the sidewalls. The oven has a box and 4 supports.

The blower compartment is a more complex part of the furnace. It consists of the following parts:

2 side walls;
back wall;
saddle for grate;
the bottom of the ash pan;
Front Panel;
frame for fixing the door.

All the details are easy to do with your own hands, having studied the recommendations and advice of the masters on the video instructions.

Do-it-yourself DIY CD for any life occasion

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Preparatory work for the production of the furnace

Initially, you need to prepare the necessary materials, equipment and tools.

Barrel selection

For such a design, it is better to use stainless steel cylinders or barrels with thick walls. But such materials are difficult to find, and they will be expensive. Therefore, we will consider the option of using the simplest 200-liter steel container with stiffeners on the body.

The thickness of their side walls is sufficient, and for the bottom we will use a grate made of reinforcement. Stiffeners will strengthen the walls. The simplicity of design and work will allow you to quickly replace a burned-out furnace after 7-10 years of its use, during which time all the work will pay off many times over.

But when buying at a metal recycling center or if you find a barrel in a landfill, be sure to make sure that gasoline or oil was not stored in it. Such a vessel will need to be pre-washed and cleaned of fuel residues. Only after making sure that there are no flammable liquids and gases, you can start working.

200l barrel

Consumables and their quantity

You will need to prepare a number of blanks for the grate and attaching the grate to the compartment with stones.

These are just the basic materials for the work. We will need to prepare a refractory brick for lining the inside of the firebox. A piece of pipe suitable for a sandwich - chimney pipe. All these materials can be purchased before installing the stove and bringing the chimney to the roof.

Instruments

For the production of work, prepare:

welding machine:
welding mask and clothes;
electrodes for welding structural steel;
grinder with a cleaning and a supply of cutting discs;
metalwork tool;
trowel and container for mixing the solution.

Scheme

The scheme of the furnace from the barrel for the bath

Many make such a stove with the ability to open the lid and pour over stones for steam. But in this case, carbon monoxide is released into the room. We are making a variant where the lid of the furnace will be recessed into the body by 100 mm and a row of stones will be laid on top. In this case, steam lovers will be able to splash water from the bowl onto the bricks without opening the lid.

Attach the hot water tank to the side. Such a container can be found at a purchase or made independently from sheet steel. The container will be fixed on the side wall. A hole is made in it for pouring water and a pipe is welded for winding a water tap.

We make a stove from a barrel

So far, the pipe has been finished, it’s up to the stove, I took a 100 liter metal barrel for these purposes, I think it’s enough for the garage, the size is quite suitable for firewood. I will make a door, and in order not to take away the metal, I decided to make a frame for the door, and weld it to the barrel itself. In general, an estimate of the corner in the photo below.

I cut out the corners for the frame, it remains to adjust and file a little what is in the way.

I cut it in such a way that the corner was on the same level, and there was no gap between the frame and the barrel, because the door in the stove should close tightly.

I grabbed a corner right on the barrel itself, it remains to cut out the door, but first I scalded the frame from all sides to the barrel, including from the inside.

After that, they drank the opening of the stove with a grinder, the firewood should fit in without problems, and the ashes also have the opportunity to clean up.

Next, I took a piece of sheet iron 3-4 mm somewhere, cut it to fit the opening, and welded a hinge, the usual one used for interior doors. He welded it as if standing, rested it with its end against the corner, and scalded it.

General view of the door

Law on burning garbage and making fires on the site

Burning garbage in dachas, garden plots and territories adjacent to private houses is regulated by paragraph 218 of the Rules of the Fire Regime of the Russian Federation, article 20.4 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation and the order of the Ministry of Emergency Situations dated January 26, 2016. The last document is most important for summer residents, because it tells in detail, in in what situation it is forbidden to burn garbage, and when and how it is still possible. The full text of the order can be found on the website of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, and we will analyze the main postulates.

Burning tires, bags, plastic bottles, film and other materials of artificial origin is prohibited.

So, if you are going to burn garbage on or near the site, then you need to equip the place in accordance with the requirements of the Ministry of Emergencies and invite a representative of the Fire Inspection for approval. The place itself must comply with a number of standards.

When making an open fire, the following rules must be observed:

open fire can be made in a pit with a depth of at least 30 cm, with a diameter of not more than 1 m;
fire must be removed from all buildings by 50 m, from coniferous forest - by 100 m, from deciduous - by 30 m;
the site on which the fire is located must be cleared for 10 m from dry branches, logging residues, dry grass and other combustible materials;
along the edge of the site there should be a mineralized fire-prevention strip with a width of at least 40 cm;
the site must have the necessary tools and materials to extinguish the fire;

After burning, it is necessary to fill the site or container with water or fill it with sand until the combustion / smoldering stops completely.

If you use a closed container made of non-combustible materials (barrel, stove, etc.) for waste incineration, then the requirements change:

the container for burning garbage should be 25 m away from all buildings, 50 m from coniferous forest, 15 m from deciduous forest;
the site on which the container is located must be cleared of dry branches, logging residues, dry grass and other combustible materials by 5 m;
there is no need to set up a firebreak;
next to the container there should be a metal sheet capable of blocking it from above and restricting air access to the fire;
the person controlling the burning must be on the site until the end of burning (smoldering).

An absolute ban on burning garbage and making fires applies: on peat soils; when a special fire regime is introduced in the relevant territory; under the crowns of coniferous trees; in relation to containers whose walls have a through burnout; with wind gusts above 5 m/s (for open fire) and 10 m/s (for containers).

Other oven options

It is possible to make a potbelly stove from a barrel of a more complex design with your own hands, these include a hexagonal potbelly stove. For its basis is taken the same barrel of 200 liters. A hexagon from the components of the future potbelly stove is inserted into it.

If we describe the device of the furnace from the bottom up, then the order location will be as follows:

Felt lining for softness and stability of the construction.
Asbestos, or another that protects against fire.
A metal sheet. It protects the floor from possible fire and heating.
Support bricks. They are the legs of the potbelly stove.
Blower compartment. This is a place where ash accumulates.
Fuel tank. A place to kindle firewood, coal and other selected fuels.
damper.
Oven. Place for cooking, air heating.
Lining compartment.
Outlet pipe for the chimney.

All parts of the hexagon are inserted into the barrel. On the front panel (part) of the barrel, doors for the blower compartment, oven, lining compartment are welded or riveted.

Stoves are a practically free or very cheap material, but at the same time, they can make large stoves, including long-burning ones.

Manufacturing progress.

First, remove the top of the barrel, then cut through the sidewall for the door.

We take welding and attach the door of the future stove. We measure 200 mm from the bottom and put the grate.

Under the ash pan, it is desirable to install another door for traction control.

You will need refractory bricks to protect the walls. We lay them out from the inside.

For chimney bricks, we install the structure, as in the figure below.

Bricks are laid out on the furnace mortar. The composition of the furnace solution is 1 part clay to 2 parts sand, the mixture is kneaded with a minimum amount of water to a very thick consistency.

The thickness of the joints for masonry should not exceed 5 mm.

To increase the heat transfer of the furnace, you can install another barrel on top. Under the chimney, you need to make a hole in the barrel and weld a piece of pipe under the chimney.

Two barrel oven

The stainless steel pipe is made from truck exhaust. The pipe is specially made curved to increase heat transfer to the room.

Looking at the previous video, the thought arises: what if we use the second additional barrel as an oven? The next model just implemented such an opportunity!

Three barrel cooking oven

The oven for cooking on the street is already made up of three barrels. In the video you will see how bread is baked in one of these barrels.

We made a stove for burning garbage in the country

Another stove for burning leaves, firewood in the country, and at the same time you can cook food on it. This oven is much simpler than those described above, but simplicity in manufacturing is simply necessary in some cases, and this is its advantage.
There is a big advantage of burning garbage in a barrel. It's convenient and safe. A domestic barrel of 200 liters was used for the furnace. Its top is cut off by 16 cm. Firewood is laid and kindled in the blower, and then leaves are thrown over the top. The author made a special bottom for the firebox from fittings and a hoop from a barrel. The bottom is placed on the protrusions-corners in order to bring the fire from the wood to the top of the stove. A lid with a pipe is placed on top. You can cook food.

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How to make a stove from a barrel with your own hands. A simple heating furnace from a barrel in a vertical loading

Benefits of a barrel stove

Assembly sequence

Initial barrel preparation

Assembling the grate

We prepare the doors

Making the foundation

We prepare the chimney

Final assembly of the furnace

Structural modernization

Interesting potbelly stove with stone masonry

About design

Choosing a quality barrel

Additional materials

Required Tools

Crafting Instructions

Vertical model

Horizontal model

Operation features

Conclusion

We make a stove from a barrel with our own hands

Construction assembly

Chimney installation

How to drown

How to legally burn garbage in the country

Waste burning barrel

Homemade garbage incinerator

Stone or brick incinerator

Branded incinerator

Waste incineration pit

Barrel for burning garbage in the country

Garden fireplaces and waste incinerators (garden waste)

In conclusion about burning garbage in the country

Interesting potbelly stove with stone masonry

Ways to burn garden waste

Burning garden waste on an open fire

Burning garden waste in an old barrel

Crafting Instructions

Vertical model

Horizontal model

Two barrel oven

What does the law say about burning trash in a barrel?

Structural modernization

Types of furnaces

Vertical model

Horizontal model

How to make a potbelly stove from a barrel with your own hands

Operation features

Method one. Upgraded barrel

Preparatory activities

Choosing a quality barrel

Estonian barrel in a Kuban farm

Advantages and disadvantages

Rules for installing a potbelly stove

First furnace

Furnace assembly procedure

Do-it-yourself DIY CD for any life occasion

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Preparatory work for the production of the furnace

Barrel selection

Consumables and their quantity

Instruments

Scheme

We make a stove from a barrel

Law on burning garbage and making fires on the site

Other oven options

Two barrel oven

Three barrel cooking oven

We made a stove for burning garbage in the country

What else to read

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