How to age a pine board. Do-it-yourself wood brushing: how to artificially age wood

The need to achieve the effect of old wood can be caused by several reasons. For example, the desire to decorate (furnish, decorate) a room in original style, personal preferences of the owners, lack of funds to purchase antiques, or some other considerations. It is quite possible to age wood with your own hands if you understand existing technologies. This article will reveal several secrets of how to properly process wood to give it the look that is necessary for a specific interior.

Technique artificial aging There are several lumber, so the author will not separately stipulate which tools and preparations may be needed when implementing one or the other. After familiarizing yourself with each of them, the reader himself will understand, in accordance with his capabilities, what will need to be prepared before starting work.

Basic methods of aging wood with your own hands

Mechanical

This technique is called texturing, although it is better known as brushing (from the English brush). It is the tool with which wood is successfully stylized as antique. The essence of this method is that the “pulp” is removed. The result is a relief surface of the sample. Almost the same thing happens to wood over time - during its drying, under the influence of temperature, ultraviolet radiation, humidity and a number of other factors.

For mechanical processing of wood with your own hands, brushing is one of the most simple options. But not every species is suitable for this method of simulating old wood. The method is called texturing because the main task is to achieve a pronounced relief of the material.

What is brushed:

• larch, pine (and almost all other conifers);
• nut;
• ash.

Breeds that are not amenable to mechanical aging:

• maple;
• fruit trees (for example, cherry) and a number of others (expensive, exotic), less used in the decoration of apartments and houses.

Technology

For mechanical method aging wood will be needed. The work is not difficult, all you need is free time and patience. But this technique is suitable in cases where we are talking about a small volume of lumber.

If you need to age wood over a large area, then it is more advisable to use an electric drill or an angle grinder (“grinder”) with. Since speed already plays a role here, you should work in protective equipment and be extremely careful. The slightest awkward movement and the tree can be hopelessly damaged. It is especially important if the processing is subjected to ready product– table, stool, wardrobe and so on.

Chemical aging of wood

Pre-treatment is carried out sandpaper with abrasive of large fractions.

Option 1

Application of ammonia solution over the entire area. Perfectly suitable and ready ammonia, which is inexpensive. It causes darkening of the lumber, giving it nobility and originality. As a result, the wood takes on an antique look.

Peculiarity - this technology aging is only suitable for deciduous species. Their structure contains substances called tannins. They are the ones that cause the wood to darken.

Option 2

Using a polymer brush, the surface is “lightly” cleaned. The goal is to achieve a clearer appearance of the growth rings. After finishing The wood is covered with stain and varnish of the appropriate shade.

Option 3

The wood is treated with stain. But not just any one, but definitely water-based. After the required color of the wood has been achieved, the composition is partially washed off (preferably with a damp soft sponge). This is done not over the entire surface, but in its middle part. As a result, the edges remain darker, which is typical of old wood.

Option 4

Patching. This type of chemical aging is more difficult to implement, but the wood also looks much more luxurious, imitating antiques as much as possible. The essence of the technique is to shade the pores opened during mechanical processing against the background of the rest of the surface.

Technology

After cleaning the workpiece (a specific segment of the base), selected materials are applied to it. general interior compositions. The simplest of them is, although there are also special preparations used for patting wood. As a result, they fill the pores, which differ from the rest of the structure in a darker shade and contrast. This work is carried out in several stages and takes a lot of time, since each layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

When aging wood with your own hands, the technology can be simplified. To do this, the material is coated with color-matched paint. Without waiting for it to “grab”, you need to remove it upper layer. A brush is useless here - it is enough to carry out surface treatment of the wood with a “doll” made of soft fabric or a sponge.

Option 5

Coloring. The purpose of this technique is to create “bald spots” on the surface of the wood, simulating abrasions, which is one of the evidence of the considerable age of the lumber.

Technology

It is necessary to select two enamels that differ in color and consistency. After the wood is initially painted, it is dried. Next, a second layer is applied, but for this a more liquid paint is used. When this layer gets stronger, the lumber in some areas is processed with fine-grain sandpaper. The result is a shabby surface due to the fact that darker paint begins to appear in these places.

You can achieve a better effect with this artificial aging technique. For example, mark “false cracks”, which will further emphasize the age of the tree. Here you will already need the so-called craquelure varnish. It should be applied to the base before the initial painting of the surface.

Any DIY work requires at least minimal experience. Therefore, it is often impossible to achieve the desired result. What should I do?

• Sand the aged wood.
• If its surface has bends or depressions, then these places can additionally be coated with stain. And in 2 layers. For the first - a “water” composition, for the second - on any other basis (gasoline, naphtha, alcohol). After drying, the wood is treated with a wax-containing preparation and polished.

Thermal aging

In essence, this is complex wood processing.

Stages of work

First– firing over the entire surface or on separate area. This is necessary to remove all the “pulp” and make the structure, growth rings, knots, and cracks clearer.

Second- mechanical restoration. Use a metal brush to remove carbon deposits. In addition, it allows you to achieve the most pronounced relief of the tree.

Third(optional) – impregnation of wood with stain. Depending on the breed, this often allows for greater texturing effects. A single layer coating is sufficient.

Fourth– applying varnish. If aged wood looks great, then it is better to use colorless varnish. Its task is to protect the material from negative impacts atmosphere. In some cases, varnish produces additional tinting of wood, but in color.

• The author used in practice different sources open fire and during training came to the conclusion that the best option- gas-burner. If you work blowtorch, it is difficult to achieve uniform flame. As a result, when aging, scorch marks appear on the wood, which are quite difficult to level out, and sometimes impossible.
• Before you start surface treatment, you need to get your hands on it. Therefore, it is advisable to first gain at least minimal experience by training on junk lumber. There will always be some wood waste on the farm.

Restoring the appearance of wood

We have to face this need everywhere. If a piece of furniture has served for some time, and defects have appeared in a separate area or throughout the entire area, or the original decor has been lost, then this can be fixed relatively easily, with your own hands. In principle, this technology is one of the varieties of wood aging.

Operating procedure:

• Removing applied layers (stripping wood to the base). Skin is used. The grain size is selected based on the complexity of processing.
• The bare wood is covered (in 2 layers) acrylic paint(black).
• Any furniture has a unique configuration. Consequently, all protruding places (corners, bevels, segments around handles, etc.) wear out over time. After identifying these areas, they are rubbed with paraffin. It is not difficult to find a candle in the house.
• Painting wood in the required color.
• After the composition dries, the paraffin is washed off (cleaned off), and dark paint will appear on the areas treated with it.
• Finish.

The author reminds you that the article outlines only the easiest methods for artificially aging wood to implement with your own hands. There are quite a lot of them, as well as the tools and preparations used. But if the meaning of everyone is clear technological operations, then it’s easy to develop your own methodology. The specifics of the work and local conditions will themselves tell you what and how it is most expedient to do.

Brushing – unique technology, which allows you to age and structure the wood. This solution provides an opportunity to give new wooden products an aged, noble appearance. More and more people are choosing to create unique interior in a house or apartment using wooden finishing materials. As a rule, wood that has a more aged appearance looks very noble and luxurious. But not many people know that even new wood products can be given the luxury and nobility that wood acquires after many years of use. In this article we will look at a master class on brushing step by step.

Increasingly, when registering interior design at home, use wooden crafts, beams, ceilings, doors with the appearance of aged wood.

Tools for brooching wooden products:

• Grinder or electric drill with attachments;
• Iron and abrasive brushes;
• Bulgarian;
• Wide brush for varnish and oil.

Stage 1. Rough finishing of wood

We take a wooden blank, in our case a board made of soft breed tree. Next, using a grinder and a special wood disc, we make shallow notches, as shown in the photo below.

As a rule, this processing of wood with an angle grinder will already be sufficient for further use it on ceilings or in places where a person cannot touch it with his hand, since in this case, during the initial processing, burrs remain on it.

Stage 2. Finishing

In the case when you plan to use wood after the broaching process for window sills, doors, furniture and other interior items, you will need additional processing wood surface. First of all, you need to slightly smooth and level the surface of the wooden product. For this we will use a wire brush. It is worth noting that you need to work with such a brush on the surface without much effort, so as not to spoil the finished structure of the wood.

First of all, you need to install an iron nozzle with a coarse fraction on an electric drill. As shown in the photo below, we carefully go through the entire processed rough surface of the wooden workpiece without excessive force.

It is worth noting that iron brushes are used to smooth the surface of a wooden product, and burrs are removed using abrasive attachments. Thanks to this, the aging of wood looks not only believable, but also safe for humans, since the surface of the wooden product will be perfectly smooth without burrs.

Stage 3. Surface treatment with abrasive brushes

After the entire surface has been passed with an iron nozzle, we proceed to finishing abrasive attachments. When working with abrasive attachments, you should press with force to thoroughly remove all burrs from the wooden blank.

Stage 4. Finishing

After preparing the wood for finishing, you can use glaze or treat the surface of the wooden product with drying oil, oil, stain, or varnish.

In the photo below wooden facade the house was glazed.

Oil coating allows you to get the effect of “aged” wood. To do this we need a regular brush and oil for wood in the interior. Best choice of oil dark shades, in this case, wooden products will look more noble. Carefully coat the entire surface of the product with oil.

Stage 5. Giving the effect of “aged” wood

In order for the dark recesses to remain dark and the light ones to remain light, we will need to treat the surface of the product immediately after impregnation with oil. To do this, we take an ordinary cotton rag. By carefully wiping the entire surface of the product with a rag, we create the visual effect of “aged” wood, as shown in the photo below.

is a long and painstaking process consisting of mechanical processing of wood and working with paint and varnish materials. This finishing method is associated with leon42, a participant in the “Home and Dacha” forum, with naturalness, antiquity, and folk culture.

According to leon42, buying furniture and brushing it with a metal brush does not make it old, but simply scratches it or, at best, creates a textured surface. Furniture bought in a store - made of slats and “skinny” - is not suitable for texturing; it looks rather sad and defective.

leon42 believes that furniture for brushing should be rough and massive, capable of conveying natural beauty tree.

It is precisely the superficial approach to aging wood, according to a forum member, that forms in many people the opinion of products processed using this technology as “furniture of fire victims.” Meanwhile, the combination of aged wood with metal, stone or ceramics in the interior is always a fashionable and stylish technique that allows all the inhabitants of the house to touch eternity and feel like they are in the Middle Ages.

IN natural conditions Wind and moisture, sun and temperature changes “work” on the aging of wood. How to do something that takes many decades to do in a few days?

Preparation of material

For brushing, it is better to use soft and medium-hard wood with a pronounced texture, for example, spruce, pine or larch. In these types of wood, soft fibers are formed, as a rule, in the spring-summer period, when intensive growth of growth rings occurs, and they are more “loose”.

Wood with a uniform and unexpressed texture, such as beech and maple, is not suitable for aging.

Before working with wood, you should prepare its surface. Eliminate all defects and dirt, be it traces of sweat, grease or other stains that may appear during the application of the tinting composition. Treat any products (small architectural forms, furniture, etc.) after disassembling them: you will spend less time and can reach everywhere with a brush.

Brushing

Brushing (English brush - “brush”), or texturing wood, is giving it a relief characteristic of old wood. On initial stage Soft fibers are removed from solid wood. There are several processing options: light aging - a barely noticeable roughness is created on the surface, or deep and rough, when the depth of the unevenness reaches 2-3 mm (for decorative elements, sometimes for rough furniture).

You can pre-process any part, say a ceiling beam, with an ax: make notches, trim the edges without fear of spoiling it - no one but you knows what the result should be. In this case, you will receive a product with a deep micro-relief of the surface and irregularities on it up to 20 mm deep.

Don’t forget about the “traces” of the vital activity of bugs and worms. imitate them before finishing using a drill or drill. You can also apply simple elements carvings: braids, dragons, etc. – you will get “Scandinavian style”.

Sanding: tools and brushes

Large enterprises use machines and automatic lines, where everything is provided - from the feed speed of the workpiece to a powerful dust removal system. For an ordinary summer resident, such equipment is an expensive and, in general, unnecessary pleasure. If you will be doing this kind of work often, it is better to purchase a brush machine. The most common and widely available is Makita. The most economical and simple option is a grinder or drill, preferably with the ability to adjust the speed.

The entire brushing process can be divided into three stages:

1. Rough selection of soft fibers
2. Grinding
3. Polishing

Accordingly, each of them needs its own brush. At the first stage ( brushing) use metal (brushing). If you are making structures for the street - a gazebo, canopy, fence, etc., then most likely this will be your only brush.

When processed with a metal brush, scratches may remain on the annual rings themselves, which are difficult to get rid of during further processing.

When working with brush, you must adhere to the following rules:

• move the brush along the fibers, otherwise you will damage the annual rings and spoil the wood grain;
• the speed of movement of the brush and the pressure must be approximately the same, otherwise pits will form;
• the light source should be placed on the side at an acute angle, directing the light beam across the fibers - this way you can better see the surface being treated;
• do not press hard on the surface, do not overload the motor, otherwise this may cause premature equipment failure;
• the rpm speed should not be higher than 3000, preferably 2000–2500: the brush can quickly fly apart;
• be sure to wear glasses and do not neglect protective gloves: pieces of wire from the brush can fly several meters away, injuring others;
• take care of respiratory protection and dust removal: during this work, even your eyelashes become covered with “mealy mascara”, let alone your lungs;
• the new brush needs to be “run in”, otherwise it will strongly “whack” the workpiece, after a while it will begin to treat the surface cleaner;
• work only in one direction (rotation), do not turn on reverse - this will “kill” the metal brush;
• The humidity of the wood being treated should not exceed 15%, otherwise instead of a textured surface you will get a shaggy-hairy surface.

When processing stable and hard wood (larch, oak), be sure to use dust removal systems: the dust from these types of wood is considered carcinogenic and can cause lung cancer.

If you want to get rid of lint and get more high-quality finishing , you will need another brush - plastic (nylon), or more correctly - a grinding disc made of polymer-abrasive material. The most common grain size is 120.

An abrasive brush is a universal one, characterized by a more delicate surface treatment. If you use this brush, you can do without a metal brush, especially if the element being processed needs delicate treatment or if you want to avoid the specific scratches left by brushes.

The principle of working with an abrasive brush is the same as with a metal one. It is better to reduce the speed to 1500 to extend the life of the brush. The dust when working with a plastic brush is finer and stickier, so don’t forget about a respirator.

Surface treatment specifics:

• do not sand the edges and corners of the workpieces, especially if you do not plan to varnish them later: they will cling and chip;
• do not make deep relief on seats, tabletops and other horizontal surfaces– they will make it difficult to clean the surface: spilled drink stains, crumbs, etc. will get clogged between the fibers;
• In order to prevent clogging of dust and snags of the rag during cleaning, such surfaces must be sanded with an abrasive brush and fine-grained sandpaper.

The final stage of brushing is polishing or fine grinding: performed with sesal or other synthetic brushes. You can use fine-grained sandpaper, abrasive sponges, and steel wool, removing dust from the finished surface with a wide brush and vacuum cleaner.

Finishing operations

At the final stage, they do tinting (changing the color of the wood by several tones), patination (emphasizing the texture of the wood with special compounds that penetrate the pores opened during brushing), craquelure (the effect of cracking and drying out), and varnishing.

After brushing, the board will look like new, but with a textured surface. To give her old look, it is coated with various compositions, dark colors look more natural.

Exactly correct game with the color of brushed wood gives it an aged look. Areas with soft wood (pores or depressions) are unevenly painted in more dark color, from hard (ridges) - to lighter. IN Lately Popular options are those with light troughs and darker ridges.

The easiest way is to apply a generous amount of dark stain and immediately wipe the area with a rag or wide rubber spatula. In theory, the stain should absorb quickly into the soft surface, but more slowly on the ridges. However, in practice this often does not work out, so leon42 stopped at more in a complicated way: After complete drying, the ridges are sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. This method requires further treatment with varnish or colorless impregnations, so the exposed top layer remains without a protective coating.

Another option is to use paint of two contrasting colors: the surface is completely painted over with the first color, then the second is applied. While the latter is drying, run a wide rubber spatula, removing excess paint and exposing the ridges of the first layer.

Proper texturing is a simple but messy, time-consuming and unhealthy process.

As a result of difficult and hard work, you will receive decorative elements that carry the beauty of antiquity and at the same time have high durability. Every detail made with love with my own hands, will be unique.

Based on materials from a participant in the "House and Dacha" forum

Editor: Olga Travina

Due to the fact that wood has been used for the construction and decoration of housing almost from the very beginning of time, many different, at first glance even strange and illogical, methods of wood processing are known today. Various techniques processing have various purposes: in one case you need to protect the wood from rotting, in the other you need to make it more fire-resistant, simply change the color or give it a more expressive shade.

Important points

Recently, this type of processing, such as aging wood, has become increasingly common. Artificially aging wood is quite simple, and this is usually done exclusively with decorative purpose, because after aging the wood, the internal or exterior finishing, a house or furniture made from it looks like antique, ancient and worn out by time. In the eyes of connoisseurs and aesthetes, the aging of wood gives buildings and decoration greater value.

A sample of furniture using the wood aging technique.

There are several more or less simple techniques that are used to produce artificial aging. You can produce them yourself, having basic set tools and substances for wood finishing.

Materials and tools that will be useful to age wood yourself: a brush with metal bristles (or circular), sandpaper, antiseptic and solvent, as well as dark and white glazes, sponge or foam rubber.

Painting after removing soft fibers

This is one of the most simple methods aging wood with your own hands, which consists of first treating the required surface with a wire brush. The wood has a structure that is processed unevenly, because in winter, spring, summer and autumn, when the corresponding annual rings are formed in the pillars of wood, its plant vessels develop unevenly.

The wire brush thus removes soft fibers, while the harder fibers remain because they are more resistant to mechanical stress. It causes change relief surface wood, which is emphasized by further painting.

One technique for aging wood is called casting.

Before processing wooden surface with a metal brush, first pass over it with sanding paper. Only after sanding is brushing done.

Instead of a regular metal brush, you can also use a circular brush, which will require a special attachment from a sander. It is important to remember that brushing wood is carried out along the fibers, so they are easier to remove.

The formation of wood dust when processing wood is inevitable, so it must be removed with a special brush or brush, being careful not to injure your hand or introduce a splinter under the skin.

After this, the wood is coated with two layers of glaze. A translucent dark composition is applied to the surface and then removed by soaking with a sponge. After this, the surface can be varnished, left as is, or treated with a light translucent glaze and also blotted with a sponge.
In the second case, a pattern is created in the “a la Provence” style, which is often used for ceilings and floor beams, for example, in basements or attics, thus creating an atmosphere of antiquity.

Multilayer processing

To give the wood an even more antique look in the interior and at the same time look as if it is already quite worn out, multi-layer painting is best suited for aging.

Even before painting the wood, they try to make the surface as textured as possible, damaging it different instruments, for example, with screws, hammers, saws. This creates the effect of highly worn wood.

Already with a relief, the wood surface is covered with a layer of primer paint until completely dry. When it dries, a fairly thick layer of dye is applied on top, which can be used as tinting paint or antiseptic colored compounds, which gives the wood even more protection.

It is better to use for applying paint liquid formulations, which spread well and provide an even layer. After the paint has dried, a second stage of mechanical aging is carried out using tools.

At the second stage, the damage must be applied carefully so that it is small. This damage layer is also covered with a white translucent glaze, which, unlike primer, can have an uneven layer to create the desired relief effect.

The varnish gives the aged surface an even more noble appearance.

Then, after drying, the top layer of white glaze is completely removed with a metal brush. This allows you to give the wood a relief look with a fairly contrasting color pattern.
The quality of the aged surface depends on how well it was diluted white glaze. Before aging the wood, it is recommended to mix it with white spirit in a 1 to 1 ratio.

Other methods

Most quick way, how to age wood at home, without requiring special effort- This is aging wood using a brush and one type of glaze. First of all, a metal brush is used again, with which you need to scrape the grooves on the surface in the longitudinal direction.

Find out how to age wood with your own hands in the loft style at home with your own hands and you can use it anywhere in production: for wooden kitchen, Provence furniture, tables, etc. This makes a wonderful color that will enhance the decor of any home! Application in decoration modern wood is, perhaps, a win-win option.

This is an incredibly attractive, breathable, pleasant to the touch natural material. It has a beneficial effect on the formation of the microclimate in the home, has bactericidal properties, and is useful for human energy. Wooden wood will look great in any room. ceiling beams, individual elements decor.

This wonderful material lends itself perfectly to the most different types processing: it can be left in in kind, paint, age, and much more.

There is no specific, unambiguous answer to this question.

This procedure is carried out for different purposes, most often these are:

How to make wood look old: brushing

There are many in various ways for processing wood, allowing to obtain desired result. Brushing, or texturing, is one of the most actively used.

The word brush is of English origin and means brush. From this comes the name of the technique, which consists in using the mentioned object to remove soft, pliable fibers of the material. Very similar processes occur as a result natural aging, but in this case they occupy enough a large number of time.

This method is considered the closest to natural changes occurring in the material.

With its help, wood acquires a distinct woody texture.

What kind of wood can be aged: species Give the surface wooden material

An aged look using brushing is quite possible on your own, at home. The problem is that not every type of wood is suitable for such processing. Maple, cherry, beech, pear, selected varieties exotic plants

It is also not suitable for products and surfaces made of MDF. What to do if it's out of stock suitable material? You will have to use a different method, chemical. Wood coniferous trees It is best processed mechanically.

Brushing is a rather labor-intensive procedure. The main tool for its implementation is an elastic and durable metal brush. Quickly change appearance wood will not be made with its help, so you can speed up the process.

To do this, you will need a grinder or a drill with a special brush made of hard wire.

It should be noted that the use of electromechanical tools for wood processing can be very unsafe. The fact is that during the event quite strong vibrations occur, which can cause not only wood chips, but also metal elements to tear off and suddenly fly off.

Therefore, it is important not only to know how to age wood, but also to be able to do it safely, without risking your own health.

All activities are carried out in a special protective suit; eyes must be covered with camouflage goggles or a face shield. The airways are closed with a special respirator.

Chemical treatment during aging process Is it possible to age wood by hand without using special devices and tools?

You will need coarse sandpaper to clean the surface. Ammonia (ammonia solution) is applied to the prepared material, which makes the wood noticeably darker.

Thanks to this treatment, the wood texture becomes more distinct, while the noble darkening gives the material a touch of refined antiquity. Such processing can be superficial and fairly light in nature.

. In this case, a polymer coarse brush is used. If the tree is subjected to deep processing, even the annual rings of the wood become noticeable.

Chemical method

The main thing is not to overdo it when performing this operation. Otherwise, the result of the efforts spent will not be an elegant textured surface, but loose, indefinite wood.

Regardless of the chosen processing method, after rough initial cleaning, the wooden workpiece must be restored to its original aesthetics.

Mechanical processing alone is not enough to achieve the desired effect of aged wood. What to do with the material next?

You can coat the product with one of the types of varnish. The material looks very interesting after special processing - patination. It allows you to make the surface of the material even more embossed. Patina is a peculiar, unique gloss acquired by a material over time.

Applying patina: the process Recreating it with your own hands requires considerable effort, and is carried out in several separate stages.

What is the patination process?

This is the application of special stains and compounds to the surface being treated. In each case, they are selected individually, in accordance with the desired shade and color of the product. The compositions should be applied in such a way that they end up in the pores of the wood, which when machining

open. The essence this method is to make the deep pores of the material appear contrasting and dark against the general background, which is lighter. For

independent conduct

This procedure requires choosing a paint that matches the color. They completely paint over the prepared surface and, without waiting for it to dry completely, remove part of the top layer with a cloth or sponge. This wood looks noble and looks like antique. But patination is not the only way to achieve a similar or similar result. It is absolutely wonderful to age products using special enamels. This method will allow you to get a real work of art that looks little different from a genuine antique.

A layer of enamel of a certain color is applied to the surface.

When it dries, it’s time for the next coloring. For secondary application, you will need a composition of a different shade and a more liquid consistency.

When the treated rock has completely dried, its surface can be easily processed with sandpaper. In some places the initial layer appears, forming elegant abrasions. Toning and varnishing The patination process must be completed by tinting. To carry it out you will need

special compounds

And although the process is quite complex and time-consuming, anyone can master the art of working with wood.

The main thing here is to carefully study the technology, understand the sequence of steps, and strictly follow the instructions.

Secrets of high-quality brushing: how to age wood

How to competently carry out the brushing process so that the resulting result is pleasing to the eye? You need to know some of the nuances of the process.

Aged wood: use in the interior

Wood treated in a special way cannot be found in every home. The fact is that it is not enough to simply age the wood.

The ability to correctly use it for interior decoration is of great importance. But the use of the described brushing method allows us to produce completely unique products, actually exclusive.

These can be individual pieces of furniture, or entire sets and sets.

Chests of drawers, candlesticks, made from such material look especially interesting. bookshelves, antique sideboards, frames for mirrors and pictures, country furniture and kitchen sets.

This method of wood processing is excellent for making individual doors and partitions. The wood brushing method is great for giving a special effect to flooring and parquet board