How to assemble a wardrobe. Case Study

The sliding wardrobe is one of the most convenient and compact ways storage of things. It has small shelves for light items of clothing, and large ones for bulkier items, there are compartments for storing skis, a compartment equipped with a rod for placing outerwear, etc.

The compactness of the closet is made possible by sliding doors, which do not require space to swing open; they move on special rollers located inside the structure of the door itself. Even a person inexperienced in such matters can assemble such a cabinet, since the assembly principle is quite simple and does not require the use of special tools.

Read the instructions and sort the parts

First, you need to carefully read the instructions and understand the individual parts - find the lower and upper elements, side posts, internal partitions.

If you mix up even one part, you are guaranteed to have to disassemble it just now. assembled structure and install everything again. Therefore, it is so important at the initial stage to correctly determine the location of all parts of the cabinet.

Assembling the frame

First we install the base (bottom element).

As a rule, this plate is attached to stands located along the long side using confirmations (these are so-called Euroscrews that have a recess in the head for a special hex key).

Installing internal partitions

At the lower end of the partitions there are holes into which dowels must be inserted before installation.

A dowel (chopik) is a small piece of a round rod that serves to strengthen wooden joints.

There are blind holes in the bottom plate, which are intended for such dowels. Having aligned the dowels and holes, we install the vertical partitions in their place (an assistant will be needed here).

We fix the shelves

Now, in order to prevent the structure from becoming loose, we install shelves, which in this case act as stiffeners.

We secure them with confirmations.

At this stage, fasteners must be screwed in completely, leaving no free play.

We install the side racks and the top cover

Now the final part of assembling the frame is the installation of the side posts and the top cover. All three elements must be installed simultaneously.

Although this action depends on design features and the location of fastening points on these parts. First, we install the sidewalls, fastening them at the bottom with the base with confirmations.

Then we put the lid on top, align the holes in all the parts and also tighten the fasteners. Here you need to leave a little free play, since you will need to level the entire frame.

Aligning the structure

The alignment process consists of the following steps. It is necessary to use a tape measure to first measure one diagonal, then the second, and by the difference in values ​​determine in which direction you need to “press” (move) the top of the cabinet so that its corners are perfectly straight.

Now you can wrap the confirmations to the end with force.

We nail chipboard sheets

The next assembly step is to nail the fiberboard sheets to the back of the cabinet.

These sheets will not only serve as a back wall, but will also reliably keep the structure from loosening throughout the entire period of operation.

As a rule, the canvases have decorative treatment on the front side in the form of a laminated colored surface. The sheets are fastened using small nails, which must be driven into the ends of all cabinet elements (racks, partitions, shelves).

Here it is important to guess the place of nailing, because the cabinet parts are not visible from the back side, and damage resulting from wrong choice, negatively affect the appearance of the product.

We place the rails - guides

Now the most crucial moment is the installation of the lower and upper rails for the doors. The bottom rail has two grooves for the movement of rollers:

And the top is divided into two sections:

In both, you must first drill holes for screws to attach them to the base and cover.

The holes must be chamfered to allow the screw to be screwed in flush.

It is enough to make 4 holes in each plank. We fasten the bottom rail first, marking the corresponding fastening points.

The distance from the edge of the base to the leading edge of the rail should be 2.5 cm.

To ensure that the doors do not jam and they move evenly, it is necessary to install the cabinet strictly horizontally, which can be done using a regular building level.

The longer the level, the more accurate the horizontal indicators will be.

The top rail is attached in a similar way with the only difference being that you need to drill holes in a checkerboard pattern in both compartments.

Screws from the set supplied with the cabinet are used as fasteners.

From the front end of the top cover to the beginning of the edge of the rail, the distance should be 2 mm.

We install rods and fittings

The final construction stage will be the installation of a bar to accommodate outerwear.

First you need to mark the attachment points for one holder (it is secured with 3 screws), drill holes and tighten the screws.

Then install the second holder on the rod, pressing it with a screw.

The assembled structure must first be tried on, aligned horizontally, and then outlined and attached with the same screws.

We hang the doors

Before this stage, you need to check the gutters in the lower bar for the absence of debris that will interfere with the movement of the rollers, once again make sure that the planes are horizontal and check all connections for rigidity.

The door is first inserted into the top rail.

And then the end rollers need to be placed in the groove of the lower rail.

All 4 doors are installed in this way (the main thing is not to confuse the picture).

In principle, there is nothing complicated in installing a wardrobe. You just need to take a responsible approach to all stages of its assembly, and then you will not only receive advanced training as home handyman, but also certainly gratitude for preserving the family budget.

Assembly is complete - the result is in the photo

Furnishing the home is the final step that combines all renovation and design stages. IN modern furniture several important qualities must be combined: operational functionality, appearance as such, compliance with the general design idea.

Coupe systems or their elements are present in almost every home. The convenience and functionality of this furniture are undeniable, and for such designer styles, like minimalism, urban, hi-tech and completely irreplaceable. The article provides comprehensive recommendations for making your own wardrobe.

Advantages

Having considered the pros and cons of this class of furniture, we will get a complete picture of modern concept wardrobe with compartment door opening system.

Advantages
Ergonomics	Standard designs require “blind” areas for opening. In coupe systems, doors move in one plane along guides when opening and closing. Significantly saved space.
Capacity	The ability to arbitrarily configure the internal space (filling), which determines the capacity. The only requirement is ergonomic feasibility.
Versatility	Fits into any interior. Various ways design and finishing allow you to install a wardrobe in the bedroom, kitchen, living room, etc.
Functionality	Inside, unlike ordinary cabinets, you can store large items and household appliances. Embed various devices- ironing board, workbench, tabletop, etc.
Ideal solution for narrow spaces	For narrow aisles and corridors, a sliding wardrobe is often the only solution. Only it can be placed in such places and used comfortably.
Zoning	Dual functionality. Using such furniture, you can easily zone a room, that is, it can also serve as a partition.
Variety of designs	No restrictions on internal content. A large number of materials for the manufacture of facades, which allows you to realize any design idea.
Using a mirror	You can install a mirror on the facade. This will improve the functionality of the room and visually expand the space.
Reliability during operation	Doors that move along guides will last much longer than doors that open on hinges.

There are significantly fewer disadvantages, but they are there:

Flaws
Failure of the sliding system	This only happens if you purchase a low-quality sliding system.
Need for additional lighting	If the dimensions are large, additional lighting will be required; it significantly increases operational comfort.
The need to clean the guides	Over time, the lower guides become clogged, which can interfere with the movement of the roller. Therefore, sometimes you have to clean the grooves of the guides.
The mirror gets dirty quickly	If a mirror is used in the decoration, then it will have to be washed frequently to remove stains and hand marks.
No possibility of rearrangement	When designing, dimensions are related to the specific location of the cabinet. Not suitable for those who like frequent rearrangements.

Varieties by shape

There are several varieties, they have structural and external differences:

• built-in;
• free-standing;
• corner;
• diagonal-angular.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Built-in

When constructing such a cabinet, there is no top, back wall and base. Only partitions are manufactured. The entire structure is screwed directly to the ceiling, walls and floor. Metal corners are used for fixation.

This stationary design, and it is an invariable part of the created interior.

Standing separately

Has sidewalls, top, bottom, back and sliding doors. This is a complete separate piece of furniture. It can be moved and is not tied to any design elements.

Angular

Great solution for small apartments, where every meter is precious. Repeats the shape of the corner and allows you to rationally use the space of the room.

Diagonal corner

This is a type of corner, but the facade does not follow the shape of the corner, but is made diagonal. The increased capacity of this design determines its frequent use as a dressing room.

Material used

Furniture with sliding door systems is made from a variety of materials. The table shows the main ones:

Material
	The most common and frequently used. Chipboard, having a low price, is quite durable. Huge selection textures, colors, patterns allows you to produce a façade for any design solutions. There is one, but significant, drawback - it is difficult to finely process. For this reason, mostly simple structures are made from chipboard or laminated chipboard.
	Eco-friendly material, easy to process. The variety of facade coatings is no less than that of chipboard. Practical and affordable material.
	Expensive option, but natural wood will last a long time. A magnificent decoration in any interior.

Types by design

The classification according to design differences is as follows:

1. built-in;
2. case.

Built-in . There is no need for top, bottom or sides. Their function is performed by the walls, floor and ceiling of the niche. For manufacturing, you can use drywall, which will reduce the overall cost of the product.

Corpus . The main difference from a regular cabinet is the method of opening the doors. If necessary, you can move it. Transportation (moving) without disassembly is possible. Minus - increased consumption materials, since the side, bottom and top walls, and the rear part are made.

Now let's take a closer look at the organization of the internal volume of the cabinet.

Design features

When designing, ergonomic and operational specifics should be taken into account.

Let's look at the main structural elements wardrobe

Door width

The choice of door size depends on factors:

• Manufacturers of sliding systems are limited to certain sizes. Some systems make it possible to produce a sash up to 120 cm wide;
• The width is affected by the number of internal sections. Each section must be freely accessible;
• The choice is influenced by personal preferences. There are no special rules, unless it goes beyond the restrictions listed above.

The optimal width, worked out in practice, is from 600 to 900 mm. This size provides the most comfortable conditions use.

Sliding systems

Sliding systems are classified according to two main criteria:

1. profile material;
2. principle of extension.

To manufacture the profile of the moving system, aluminum or steel is used. The material of the sliding system is selected, as a rule, the same as that used for the door frame. Steel structures are cheaper, but in most cases aluminum is preferred.

Structurally, two types of systems are produced - bottom-mounted and top-hung. In the lower-support type, the door with rollers moves along a rail. In the top-hung system, its rollers move along the upper guides.

Height

The height is arbitrary. The only limitation may be the ceilings or the small stature of the owners of the apartment/house. Structures are made from ceiling to floor, as well as smaller heights.

The standard length of the material used for the walls is 270 cm. A standard apartment has a ceiling height of 260–270 cm. Almost identical dimensions make it possible not to saw or build up structural elements.

For ceilings higher than 270 mm (if you want to have a floor-to-ceiling closet) there are two solutions. First, the sheets of material are joined to the required length. Secondly, the mezzanine is assembled. You can join sheets at high-precision equipment companies specializing in such services.

Shelf depth

The depth of the shelves determines the everyday usability of the cabinet. The optimal and recommended figure is 60–70 cm. Usually in the closet there is a rod for hangers, the width of which is about 48 cm. A depth of 60 cm will completely eliminate contact between the inner surface of the door and clothes hung on hangers. Most furniture accessories (boxes, trays, etc.) have a width of 50 cm. The shelves should not be made deeper, since it will be inconvenient to get “under the wall” when placing things.

The dimensions of the premises do not always allow the installation of furniture with the maximum recommended shelf depth. But also minimum depth there are restrictions. The best option the depth may be 40 cm. Considering that 10 cm goes under the sliding door mechanism, you can purchase small hangers 30 cm wide. Alternatively, install a hanging rod(s) perpendicular to the doors and the rear wall, in this case, the width of the hangers placed is not limited .

This solution is much better than completely abandoning the installation of a cabinet, especially since even such a “narrow” design for small apartments- the ideal solution.

Length

When designing, the length of the cabinet is selected in accordance with the location of its further installation.

Height of shelves and rods

The height between shelves is 250–350 mm. The selection rule is simple: greater shelf depth - longer distance between them, less depth means less distance. This dependence is associated with ease of access to stacks of linen located deep in the shelf (near the back wall).

When designing a mezzanine, you should take into account the size of the things intended to be stored on it. If these are suitcases, then the height of the mezzanine should be equal height suitcases, plus a small supply.

The mounting height of the hanger bar is determined by the length of the clothing placed on it. The maximum height will be equal to the longest item. Average length of typical wardrobe items:

• shirts - up to 100 cm;
• jackets - up to 110 cm;
• long clothes - up to 130 cm;
• raincoats and fur coats - up to 150 cm.

These calculations are approximate, since the length of clothing depends on height, style and other parameters.

Video:

Schemes and drawings

The diagrams show various project options and furniture assembly technologies:

Device inside

When designing the filling of a sliding wardrobe, first of all, zoning is done internal space. The figure shows a universal diagram of the breakdown into storage areas for various things:

Buying ready product, you will have to agree with the filling configuration proposed by the manufacturer. Self-production will allow maximum consideration of dimensions, functionality, location of various zones and much more, which will ultimately ensure maximum operational comfort.

Below is a table with examples of frequently used elements of internal filling and zoning of a sliding wardrobe with their help.

Zoning
	Shelves are one of the main filling elements. They can be stationary and retractable, solid and ventilated, half and full depth, etc.
	Drawers are the second most important element of the cabinet.
	Hanging rod - necessary for clothes on hangers. The material used varies, most often metal.
	Convenient storage baskets. All things are clearly visible in them, which creates a certain convenience.
	This device is called a trouser. Pants are always ironed and ready to wear.
	A bar (hanger) for storing ties is convenient to choose, does not wrinkle, and proper suspension prevents them from changing shape.
	Convenient placement of belts, as an alternative - storage on a shelf in rolls.
	Compact and convenient storage of underwear.
	Placing bed linen, towels, and some clothes in piles on shelves.
	A significant part of the internal volume is allocated for storing blouses, light blazers, and short sundresses. A pipe with hangers is installed in the opening. You can make several such sections - for short and long things.
	Department for accessories - bracelets, watches, glasses, etc. It is recommended to store these items in drawers. Inside, the space can be divided into separate cells.
	Shelves for storing shoes. In the upper (mezzanine) part you can place shoes in boxes.
	Hooks, hangers, carabiners, rings and other accessories for bags.
Travel suitcases	Place rarely used (once a year during vacation) suitcases on the far (top) shelves or mezzanine.
	One of the options for bed linen. Shelf width up to 80 cm, height up to 60 cm.

Characteristics of the main filling elements:

• retractable and stationary shelves. For convenient use, the distance between them is from 350 to 450 mm;
• drawers. Two types - fully retractable (100%), partially retractable (80%). They can be equipped with closers that provide smooth semi-automatic closing of the drawer;
• mezzanines, known as hard-to-reach shelves. Located at the top. Rarely used and bulky items are stored on them;
• Barbells are needed for hangers. Mounted along the width of the cabinet;
• pantographs or special “furniture elevators”. Thanks to them, clothes are stored on required level and can be easily pulled out using a special rod. They can be electrical or mechanical;
• Baskets are convenient for storing small items. Equipped with rollers and guides.

Facades

The interior content, thought out to the smallest detail, will be in sharp dissonance with poorly chosen facades. It is the facades that give the entire cabinet a special finished look. Let's consider several options for their implementation.

Mirror

A mirror visually enlarges the space and makes the room brighter. Can be whole or divided into several parts. The large weight of the mirror determines the need to select high-quality and reliable rollers. Such a facade creates additional maintenance troubles - the mirror quickly gets dirty. It will have to be wiped and washed regularly, especially if the family has small children.

A variety of finishes are used for facade mirrors - sandblasting patterns and designs, spraying of various shades (silver, emerald, gold, etc.) for glass, printing color images and much more. For safety reasons, the inside of the mirror is covered with shockproof (armor) film. If the mirror breaks, the pieces will not fly away.

Glass

Glass is no less popular than mirrors; facades are equipped with unbreakable ones. Frosted glass with a pattern is mainly used. Vertical and horizontal stripes that divide the canvas into separate squares look original.

MDF and chipboard

These materials are laminated with film. The facades look massive and heavy. To install them you will need reliable roller systems. One of the advantages is a huge selection of colors, shades and patterns, texture - from matte to bright glossy.

On MDF and Chipboard facades You can apply photo printing.

These are the main types of facades used in the manufacture of sliding wardrobes. You can combine them with each other. This article contains photographs with a considerable number of original ideas for making facades.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Gluing the edge tape

After cutting all the elements, the edge tape is glued to the ends of the slab. Sequence of operations performed:

Instructions for gluing the edge to the end of the workpieces
	If you don’t have an assistant, you can use a simple trick. You will need a small box and a quick-release clamp. The clamp presses the board to the box, ensuring the stability of the workpiece and the convenience of gluing the edge tape.
	One side of the edge tape has an adhesive surface. By heating it to a high temperature it is easy to glue it to the workpiece.
	Cut the edge to the required length. Leave a margin of 1 cm at the edges. After gluing, you can cut it with ordinary scissors.
	For gluing, set the position of the iron temperature sensor to “2”.
	For safety reasons, wear left hand two gloves. There should be no pellets on the palm.
	Use the iron to move along the edge tape, and hold it with your left hand (flat).
	We carry out the iron in opposite direction, at the same time, with a gloved hand, firmly press (smooth) the edge tape.
	Use your hand to smooth the edge a few more times.
	Using a special roller. Iron on the edge tape and then roll it with a roller. Very comfortably.
	Once the tape has cooled down, carefully cut off the remainder from the end with a sharp knife.
	We get a cut like this.
	We repeat the procedure for all ends of the workpiece. We measure the tape with a margin of 1 centimeter, from each edge.
	Glue it with an iron and smooth it out.
	Cut off the cooled edge. The edge on the adjacent edge has already been glued; we make the cut very carefully.
	We cut off the longitudinal remains of the protruding edge on all sides.
	Result. We glue the edges of the remaining blanks with edge tape.
	All cuts are sanded with a special whetstone. The inside of it is filled with foam rubber, the outside is filled with fine-grained abrasive.
	Grinding of cuts is done only with longitudinal movements.

The processing of the main elements is carried out similarly.

Assembly

According to the project, the details are cut out. It is better to do this operation in a workshop on a special formatting machine. After cutting and gluing the edges, we assemble the cabinet:

Frame assembly instructions
	To work, you will need to assemble an additional device consisting of a metal strip and two pieces of board connected at an angle. It turns out a corner with a metal guide. You will also need two quick-release clamps. Using this device it is very convenient to connect workpieces at right angles.
	We check with a square - it should be 90˚.
	Set aside 70 mm from the top edge.
	In the example, a 16 mm slab is used, therefore, it is necessary to retreat 9 mm from the edge. Why not 8 mm? Because the plate protrudes 1 mm beyond the edge, forming a small side. The middle of the end of the adjacent plate is at a distance of 9 mm.
	Drilling mark.
	A similar mark is placed below.
	Using a drill, we make holes for the fasteners.
	A special drill replaces three at once. It allows you to make the main hole, the collar and chamfer in one operation.
	Drilling.
	We tighten the confirmation with a screwdriver.
	Having secured the sidewall, we mark the installation locations for the shelves according to the design.
	Next, using a square, place marks on both sides under the holes for attaching the shelves.
	Markings along which holes for confirmations will be drilled.
	The device assembled at the beginning of work is convenient to use for fastening shelves. Using a tape measure, measure 1/2 the thickness of the slab. The thickness of the plate is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the mark.
	At this level we install the shelf using quick-release clamps.
	Here you can clearly see that the mark is in the middle of the end of the workpiece. Everything is ready for drilling.
	Let's drill.
	We tighten the confirmations.
	We install the remaining shelves in the same way.
	We install the cross member. And we fasten each shelf with confirmations.
	Having fixed the cross member quick clamp, we twist it with confirmations from above and below, then we secure each shelf.
	So it's going Bottom part wardrobe We clamp the strip from the slab with a clamp and secure it at the end with a confirmat.
	We drill shallow holes from below for installing furniture legs.
	We tighten the metal sleeve with external and internal threads.
	Using a hexagon, tighten (recess) to the required position.
	We screw the leg with the plastic support into the sleeve. Thanks to this, the furniture can be moved and leveled.
	Two parts support leg assembly.
	After assembling the cabinet on it back side The fiberboard sheet is fastened with ordinary nails.
	We start fixing the fiberboard from the top. By tilting the cabinet from side to side, we achieve a 90˚ angle between the side panel and the top bar. We nail the sides and bottom of the fiberboard sheet.
	During assembly, no such plastic furniture corners were used. Why? The use of confirmat is much more practical, since it is screwed into the slab a few centimeters and reliably connects the structure, giving it additional rigidity.
	We close the confirmation hats with a decorative cap.

Using the same operating sequence, you can assemble a wardrobe of any configuration.

Video:

Making doors

The door consists of a frame, metal guides and a roller system. You should order it from a company that professionally deals with such systems. Specialized software Based on the given dimensions, it will calculate all the elements and issue a complete specification for assembly. Mirrors or slabs from other materials are cut to the size of the doors for mounting in frames.

Elements for sliding system
	Vertical posts/handles for the side parts of the door.
	Sealing rubber for the mirror.
	Self-adhesive brush to soften the impact of doors when opening/closing.
	Brackets for fixing doors in extreme positions.

The main parts for assembling the doors are made of aluminum. All metal components must be coated protective film, protecting them from scratches during transportation.

Assembling the sliding system

Let's consider step by step assembly door leaf. In our example there will be two mirror doors.

Ready wardrobe

Door assembly instructions
	The door is located in horizontal position and provides easy access from all sides.
	At the top vertical stand, which also serves as a door handle, drill two mounting holes.
	The lower one has a diameter of 6.5 mm.
	The top hole is 10 mm. The upper door profile and the roller will be attached through it.
	The lower part of the same vertical profile. The upper hole is 10 mm, the lower one is 6.5 mm. The distance from the edge of the first hole is 7 mm, the second is 43 mm. The lower roller will be attached closer to the edge. The second hole is for the screw connecting to the profile.
Profile installation	We fix the rubber seal on top with a profile, carefully inserting it.
	We perform the procedure sequentially on all faces. Rubber compressor We don’t cut it off at the corner, but lay it continuously around the entire perimeter.
Do not tighten it all the way	This screw does not tighten completely. Later the upper rollers will be installed into it.
	Install the upper rollers and tighten the screw until it stops.
	Rubber seal installed at the bottom of the door.
The screw with the top roller is also tightened	At the top we attach the second pair of rollers.
	Install the lower roller. We press the spring on the roller and carefully insert it into the hole, securing it with a screw.
	The screw is tightened with a hexagon.	Wardrobe with first door installed.
	We assemble and install the second door in the same sequence.

Additionally we install auxiliary elements- pipe for hangers, etc.

Video:

In the end it should look like this

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the diagrams and drawings. They will help you create your own project.

Video:

Video:

Photo

The wardrobe is one of the most functional pieces of furniture. It can be used not only to store personal items, but also as an element, allowing you to hide visually “unfavorable” interior details present in any living space.

Tools: Drill (screwdriver), caliper, awl, screwdriver, Forstner drill (35 mm), pencil, set of wood drills
Consumables: Dowels, euroscrews, PVA glue, silicone adhesive sealant

Next we will look at the process self-assembly a small hanging cabinet, which is used to “aesthetically transform” the distribution box - functional, but not very elegant in appearance.

IMPORTANT: Applying this method can be achieved best result, if the door (facade) of the cabinet turns out to be made in the same color or style with the facades of furniture sets in the hallway, kitchen, or living room.

Taking measurements

The first step is to take measurements. Using , determine exact values width and height of the distribution box.

Creating a sketch and diagram of the cabinet

Before making an exact diagram of the future cabinet, it is recommended to draw a simplified sketch of it by hand. This will help you determine the optimal configuration of elements and their location. It is better to make several sketches, and then choose the most suitable one.

Determine the number and location of shelves, the direction the door opens, and the location of fastening (corner elements are best fixed on both sides of the corner - that is, on two adjacent walls). In order to correctly determine the height of the shelves, imagine what items will be placed on them. If these are toiletries (bottles, cans, vials, etc.) - make the height of the shelves correspond to the longest of the intended items (Fig. 1). Determine how much the dimensions of your cabinet will exceed the dimensions of the distribution box - it is advisable to make the width of the cabinet a little larger for ease of attaching the hinges.

After the approximate sketch of the cabinet is ready, make a more accurate one assembly diagram, using the box dimensions determined earlier (Fig. 2). Such a diagram can be created using one of the many free design programs, in any graphics editor, or simply by drawing it by hand. When drawing up a diagram, do not forget to correctly design the places of the ties, determine which element will be located at the end and which plane.

Don't forget about the fasteners. It is extremely undesirable to place fastener caps on the front side of the product, even if decorated afterwards with plugs. for fastening elements from the front side it is recommended to use furniture dowels(spikes). In invisible places, you can use ordinary furniture corners, confirmats (euro screws) or classic self-tapping screws.

Cutting the material

The material for the cabinet is chipboard. It is the most accessible, easy to process and quite durable. You can purchase ready-made panels and cut them yourself using a miter saw or regular hacksaw. However, it is much more convenient to have all the elements cut by professionals. The cut edges will be smoother and more aesthetically pleasing, and you will not have to laminate the ends yourself, which is also quite difficult to do without equipment and certain skills.

Based on the diagram you completed earlier, create an order sheet (Fig. 3), indicating the size and required quantity each element, as well as the place of lamination (front sides). And, of course, do not forget to determine the color of your future cabinet.

Preparing cabinet elements for assembly

Making holes for tie rods

In our example, the elements are tied together using dowels (on the front side) and euroscrews on the opposite (support) side. The holes for fastenings, in turn, are located on the internal planes of the side walls and the ends of the ceilings (Fig. 1).

In order for the marking to be accurate, axial lines should be drawn on which the centers of future holes will be. Set the caliper to a size that corresponds to half the thickness of the sheet. As a rule, in the production of furniture, chipboard sheets with a thickness of 16 mm are used, so in our example, the size should be set to 8 mm on the scale.

IMPORTANT: To make markings on laminated chipboard (especially on light-colored surfaces), a simple pencil is best suited. It is chemically inert and can be easily removed from elements using a regular eraser.

Place the tool against the end edge of the element and mark the distance to the central axis. Do the same on the opposite edge of the end. Then draw a center line along the marked points.

Using a caliper, mark the same distance (8 mm) on the plane of the element on both sides. Use a ruler or draw a center line along the marks you made.

Center lines must be applied to all ends and edges of elements that will subsequently be tightened with fasteners.

After all the axes are drawn, mark the location of the mounting holes on each of them. To do this, set a size of 10-15 mm on the caliper, step back and mark this distance on the ends and planes of all elements.

IMPORTANT: The distance for all elements must be the same.

Using an awl, make shallow punctures at the marked points.

Using an electric drill or drill the mounting holes with a thin drill (2 mm) to a depth equal to half the length of the dowel or the length of the euro screw, reduced by the thickness of the chipboard (depending on what type of fastener is used for the screed). Try to hold the drill tightly, positioning the drill strictly perpendicular to the plane with the future hole.

IMPORTANT: To avoid making a mistake with the depth of the hole, use a strip of masking tape or insulating tape and wrap it around the drill bit at the required distance.

The full diameter of the holes is determined in accordance with the fasteners you use. In our example, the diameter of the dowels is 8 mm, the diameter of the Euroscrews is 6 mm, so for the final drilling of the holes, drills with a diameter of 8 and 6 mm are used, respectively. To work with confirmations, there are specialized drills that allow you to drill holes of a fixed depth in accordance with the diameter of the fastener. It is recommended to use such equipment for regular work.

Drill the preliminary holes to the desired diameter, deepening them slightly. It is enough to make the holes 1-2 mm deeper - this way you can tighten the elements better. A slight increase in depth is also necessary when using adhesive composition as an additional fixing factor.

When using Euroscrews to tighten, it is necessary to make through holes on the surface of one of the mating elements (in our example, on the side wall of the cabinet).

In order for the Euroscrew head to be in the same plane with the surface of the element (deeper into the material), the holes on the screw side of the Euroscrews must be countersunk to a depth of about 2-3 mm. For this, a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the Euroscrew head is used (in our example, the drill diameter is 10 mm).

Drilling holes to secure cabinet shelves

To fix the cabinet shelves, you can use special stops (shelf holders), or, as in our case, small furniture corners. Shelf holders allow you to easily rearrange shelves, thus changing the height of their location, furniture corners provide additional strength to the cabinet frame.

To determine the location of the corners, draw center lines corresponding to the lower boundaries of the shelves.

IMPORTANT: When marking, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the chipboard, as well as the location of the hinges and ease of installation. If your shelves are low enough, make sure you can fix them (Fig. 4). Do not place shelves too low and avoid placing fasteners too close to each other.

In our example, the bottom shelf is located exactly in the middle between the bottom screed and the top shelf of the cabinet (Fig. 6). To determine the height of the lower shelf (the position of its upper edge), you should divide the distance between the lower edge of the upper shelf and the upper edge of the lower screed in half, and then add half the thickness of the chipboard sheet (8 mm) to the resulting value. Measure this distance from the bottom edge of the top shelf and draw a center line (Fig. 5).

Attach a furniture corner to the drawn line and mark the centers for fastening the shelves at each of the support points (at the rate of two corners on each side of the shelf). The distance from the front edge of the shelf to the corner is chosen arbitrarily, but it should be taken into account that the fastenings should not be too noticeable when looking at the shelf from above.

In order for the marking to be more accurate, combine and fix all symmetrical elements of the cabinet (in our example, the side supporting walls), using long rule or . After this, carry out axial marking of all elements at once (Fig. 5). If you mark elements separately, errors are inevitable.

If the size of your cabinet is not too large, carefully assemble it on the floor (Fig. 6). The elements do not need to be fastened together with fasteners—it is enough to place them next to each other. This way you can check in advance that the cabinet is assembled correctly and, if necessary, correct any mistakes.

Drill the holes for the corners to a shallow depth (3-4 mm) with a thin drill.

Drilling holes for fixing the cabinet to the wall

The cabinet is fixed on both sides of the corner. At the side, fastening is done using two self-tapping screws, at the back - using one furniture corner (Fig. 2). The side holes are made in such a way that the fasteners move freely in them. In our example, their diameter is 4 mm. The location for placing the fasteners is chosen arbitrarily.

The rear support corner is located in the least visible place - under middle shelf(Fig. 2). Having attached the corner to the side wall of the cabinet in the right place, mark the mounting hole, then pierce and drill it with a thin drill to a depth of about 2-3 mm (Fig. 7).

Hanging cabinet hinges

Installing hinge cups on cabinet doors

If the facade you are using already has holes for hinges, you can skip this step. In our example there are no holes, so they should be marked and drilled.

IMPORTANT: When marking the places where the hinges are attached, take into account the cabinet configuration and the location of the metal distribution box. Don't forget - about 20-25 mm of free space is needed to place the hinge strikes. Also, you should not place the hinges in places that are difficult to access for installation, for example, close to shelves.

To drill the loop holes, a Forstner drill with a diameter of 35 mm is used. The holes should be located at a distance of 5-6 mm from the side edge of the facade and at a distance of 50-100 mm from its lower and upper edges (Fig. 8).

Using a caliper, measure the required distances from the edges of the facade and mark the centers of the hinge holes.

Indentation values:

35 mm / 2 + 5.5 mm = 23 mm- from the side edge;

99.5 mm + 35 mm / 2 = 117 mm– from the bottom (top) edge.

Since in our example a ready-made façade was used and assembly was carried out based on its size, the upper hinge was placed slightly lower due to the inconvenient location of the electrical box (Fig. 2).

Having marked the holes, pierce them with an awl strictly perpendicular to the surface of the facade.

Install a Forstner drill bit into the electric drill chuck and securely fix it. Drill the hinge hole to the desired depth. The hinge cup must fit completely inside the hole.

Never attempt to complete this job in one step. After drilling the hole to a depth of 5-7 mm, continue drilling gradually. When removing small layers of material 1-2 mm thick, apply a loop and check its position. Do not forget - the drill has a sharp protrusion at the end, which can damage the front side of the facade if drilled too deeply. Some craftsmen grind off this protrusion or even use two types of equipment, first cutting the contour with a regular drill, and then using a drill without a protrusion to drill the holes to the end. However, when correct use tool - the work can be easily done with a regular (sharp) drill, since the laminated chipboard sheet has sufficient thickness.

IMPORTANT: When drilling large-diameter holes, do not forget to place hard material under the facade to avoid tearing its front side.

Once the holes are made, clean them thoroughly. Install the hinge cups and level the hinges using a block, rule, or building level. Then mark the centers of the hinge mounting holes with a pencil

Remove the hinges. Pierce with an awl and drill the mounting holes with a thin drill to a depth of 3-4 mm.

Reinstall the hinges and secure them with the supplied self-tapping screws.

Marking holes for hinge strikes

Align the door and supporting side using the rule. Using a caliper, set a small technological gap (2-3 mm) along the entire length of the door edge (Fig. 8). The top and bottom edges of the elements must match.

Don’t be afraid to make a mistake when setting the gap; it can later be adjusted by 2-3 mm by adjusting the hinge strikers.

Mark the centers of the mounting holes for the hinge strikes on the side wall of the cabinet using a pencil. Remove the door with hinges, pierce it with an awl and drill holes to a depth of 2-3 mm using a thin drill.

Assembling and securing the cabinet

It is advisable to assemble wall-mounted furniture not only in accordance with the principles of fixing the elements, but also taking into account the method of fixing the entire structure to the wall. This will give you a more comfortable working environment (especially if assembly and fastening is done alone).

In our case optimal solution is the combination of assembly and fastening of the cabinet. Thus, the two parts of the cabinet are assembled in advance, and then pulled together at the place of fastening. This method will allow you to fix the top side of the cabinet to the wall of the electrical box using adhesive.

Assembling the first half of the cabinet

Assemble and tighten the first half of the cabinet (Fig. 9) using Euroscrews. Fasteners threaded through the through holes of the first mating element (right side wall), and then screwed into the end holes of the second (bottom tie) using a hex key or a screwdriver with a hex bit. The confirmations are tightened until their caps are flush with the plane of the material.

Assembling the second half of the cabinet

To assemble the second half of the cabinet, PVA glue is used as an additional fastener. Add a little glue to the mounting holes on the plane of the first mating element (left side wall) (3-4 drops in each), then tightly hammer the dowels into them using plastic hammer. Secure the rear mounting bracket to the side of the cabinet

Similarly, add glue to the end holes of the second mating element (top tie). Align the elements tightly and, if necessary, secure them with masking tape or supports.

Preparation for installation

First, install the first half of the cabinet close to the metal box and mark the side mounting holes. Since the marking is done through side wall- It is not advisable to use a pencil or marker. It is more convenient to do it using a nail or a drill with a small drill directly through the holes in the side wall of the cabinet.

Install the second half of the cabinet also close to the box. Mark the center of the rear mounting hole metal corner with a simple pencil.

Drill the mounting holes using drills corresponding to the diameter of the plastic dowels (most often, dowels with a diameter of 6 mm are used to fix small wall modules).

IMPORTANT: Be extremely careful when making holes in walls. Power supply lines connected to distribution box and those located near it should not be damaged by the drill. If you are not sure where the supply lines are located, use

Hello again. Today we will assemble our wardrobe, we will do this according to the instructions below.

So, we took the parts from the cut. We didn’t want to glue the edge ourselves, so we ordered gluing there, especially since the price of gluing is not that high.

We also purchased all the necessary fittings for the cabinet and the necessary fasteners.

The floor turned out to be not entirely level, so the cabinet had to be built not on the base, but on adjustable legs, accordingly, the detailing was slightly redone.

The introductory part is finished, let's start assembling.

Wardrobe assembly instructions

Our procedure for assembling the wardrobe will be as follows.

You need to start assembling from the bottom of the cabinet, namely by assembling the base and installing the legs.

We take a part called the bottom and mark its lower side for installing the base and legs as shown in the diagram below:

The plinth can be secured to the bottom using mini fixes (eccentrics, rasteks - whoever calls them), confirmats or ordinary plastic corners.

Since this will still be an invisible area, and the cabinet will not stand on a plinth, but on legs, I decided to secure the plinth using plastic corners. The legs were secured with 3.5*30 screws.

Just when you screw the legs, don’t overdo it (you can over-tighten it, and the sharp part of the screw will come out from the back side).

We attach the four parts of the base to each other using confirmations. For convenience, take yourself corner clamp. You can use it.

Do not twist the front plinth with corners, as To adjust the legs you will have to remove it.

We will attach the sides to the bottom and roof with minifixes. They are great for fastening perpendicular parts, and they also manage to completely hide the fastener.

If space allows, it is convenient to assemble the sliding wardrobe lying on the front part and fasten it using confirmations. But since I didn’t have any free space in my room, I had to assemble it standing up and use eccentrics (rastexes, minifixes) as fasteners.

On the bottom and roof of the cabinet (from the inside) we mark holes for installing the minifix rod.

Before installing the sides, using a level, the bottom of the wardrobe must be leveled as evenly as possible. Simply lean the level and adjust the legs to the maximum horizontal position.

Now you need to mark the sidewalls, the holes should exactly coincide with the installed rods on the bottom and roof. In the sidewalls you will need to do two different drillings in two different planes.

The first hole is made for a metal eccentric, which will tighten the rod, it is made in the inner side of the sidewall, with a special 15mm cutter, at a distance from the edge of the end to the center of 34mm (this is if the rod has a total length of 44mm, like mine).

In general, when fitting a part onto a rod, its head should protrude 6 mm. If this is your first time installing minifixes, practice better on rough parts, so you will feel more confident when assembling.

The second hole is made at the end of the part, with a 6-6.5 mm drill, strictly in the center (8 mm from the edge).

For a more detailed understanding of this assembly step, you can use our materials on.

• When you have made all the necessary holes, do not rush to install the sides and roof right away.
• To give the structure initial rigidity, immediately assemble the central partition with the upper shelf (we fasten it with confirmations).
• At the next stage we need to plant the sidewalls, back wall consoles and the assembled T-shaped partition onto the lower rods, tighten them with eccentrics, and secure the upper shelf to the sidewalls (with confirmations). Use an angle clamp for support.
• Next, we attach the roof and check the verticality using a level.
• If everything is fine, to provide additional rigidity, we install additional shelves using confirmats.
• Now, using 3.5*16 screws, we fasten the back wall of the fiberboard. Let's start with two upper corners, and after perfect alignment We begin to screw in screws throughout the box, in increments of 15-20mm. The fiberboard should also be secured to the central partition and the top shelf.

The most the hard part the work is finished. We put the cabinet in its place, once again check the position of the cabinet by level and proceed to installing shelves, hangers and drawers.

Shelves can be made either rigid (secured with confirmations) or removable (on shelf holders).

To have fewer plugs for holes on the visible side of the wardrobe, I decided to install the shelves on shelf holders.

Everything is simple here. On the sidewall we mark the required height, using a 4.5-5 mm drill we do NOT through hole, up to 8mm deep and hammer the shelf holder there.

Modern interior designs most often include the use of built-in appliances and furniture (cabinets, beds, tables, etc.). This solution helps to significantly save space even in the smallest apartment or house. Built-in wardrobes of various models, made from natural and artificial materials (plastic with metal frame, real tree). If you are renovating an apartment/house yourself, then you just need to know how to properly assemble a wardrobe yourself, without involving specialists. After reading the article, you will learn how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands (video and written step-by-step instructions), the advantages of this type of furniture, as well as some of the features of placing cabinets in a room.

Advantages of sliding wardrobes

The characteristics of such furniture, which are undoubtedly its advantages, can be depicted in a table:

Advantage	Description
Compact and spacious	In such a closet you will place twice as much clothes without the expense of the enormity of the furniture itself.
Possibility of conveniently placing a closet in the room different sizes and shapes	Some models of wardrobes can be transformed to suit the features of the room: the presence of a corridor, recesses in the wall where the wardrobe can be placed.
Room zoning	With the help of a wardrobe you will visually divide different zones in a room, for example, a working room from a recreation area.
Sliding door mechanism	To open the closet, you don't need to remove chairs or move other furniture
Convenient assembly and disassembly of the cabinet with your own hands	Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands is quite easy and anyone can do it simply by following the instructions.
Beautiful design	Compared to conventional furniture, built-in compartments are distinguished by a variety of shapes and a palette of colors. A huge selection of shades and color combinations, various designs and thematic images will give the room in which the compartment is located a special character and mood.

Why do you need knowledge and skills on how to assemble a wardrobe yourself?

You can easily assemble a sliding wardrobe with your own hands if you follow the step-by-step instructions. This will not only save you money and time, but you will also learn how to assemble a sliding wardrobe yourself and disassemble it whenever necessary. Also, if you have started remodeling an apartment/house, knowing how to assemble a wardrobe yourself will help you easily and quickly resolve the issue of moving this furniture. You will be able to help your family and friends with the assembly and disassembly of wardrobes, which will do them a huge service. The main “steps” for assembling sliding wardrobes with your own hands are indicated in the instructions, and clear example You can watch this process in the video.

What tools will you need to assemble a sliding wardrobe with your own hands?

To assemble/disassemble a wardrobe with your own hands at any time, you need the following set of tools:

• level: regular or laser (to avoid problems with measurements)
• angle - for the correct placement of parts in relation to each other, strictly perpendicular
• hammers: regular (driving dowels into walls) and rubber (to align cabinet parts “standing” next to each other)
• screwdrivers with a flat and Phillips nose for screwing in self-tapping screws
• tape measure, marker and pencil for markings
• hex wrench (for working with confermates)
• sandpaper for sanding
• iron to glue melamine edges to the open surfaces of the ends of the panels
• electric drill with wide functionality
• To screw in screws, you will need different attachments for a “bit” type drill to save time and not screw in screws with screwdrivers
• 35mm wood drill and counterbore
• special drills for working on metal (for 2-10 mm)
• Victory drill bit 1 cm to make holes in walls
• jigsaw (preferably powered by electricity) 600 kW, for quickly filing coupe parts)

Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The optimal option for assembling cabinets different models There is not just one method, since the difference in design requires different approaches to assembling and disassembling built-in furniture. How to assemble a classic type coupe is indicated in the following instructions.

Preparatory stage.

You need to familiarize yourself with all the details of the product (so as not to confuse anything during the assembly process and not have to start all over again), prepare the tools and the place where the assembly and installation will take place. Any furniture is assembled in a horizontal position.

The first stage is assembling the podium (base and legs).

On the part that is the bottom of the cabinet, we make markings at right angles (confirmations) so as to ensure optimal emphasis over the entire area. We mount the base with dowels and minifixes, then hammer in the support nails. If there is a baseboard, it will need to be trimmed as the podium needs to fit very tightly against the back wall.

The second stage is to install the side parts of the cabinet (if this model has them).

Initially, it is necessary to trim the sides so that they fit smoothly and tightly against the back wall (it is advisable to even sand the back walls of the ends). To place the side parts perfectly vertically, use a level.

If the coupe model does not have side parts and is designed to be placed between walls, then at this stage you need to make a marking under which the shelves will be attached, also using a level. Using a hammer drill, we make holes in the walls (below the level markings), insert fasteners into them and secure the corners. We place shelves on the corners and also secure them. Next, we install the rear racks at the level of the shelves.

The third stage is the installation of drawers and rods.

We install guides on the drawers, retreating from the edge by 10-15 cm, since in most models of sliding wardrobes the drawers are made with inset facades. We attach the response mechanism to the side panels. We install facades. We fix the bar on which clothes will be hung on hangers until the installation of the drawers is completed.

The fourth stage is installing the door.

We take measurements of the cabinet from the inside and mark the levels of fastening of the guides on the floor (podium) and the top panel. Before fixing the floor guide, we also insert a stopper into the holes of the marks to secure the door when closing.

We begin installing the door by fixing the guides - the top one needs to be raised a little and lowered onto the bottom. We adjust the rollers at the bottom through the end holes. That's it, the door is installed.

The final stage.

Attaching hooks to the outside on the side panels, if this is included in the cabinet design, as well as cleaning the furniture collection area. After this, you can safely place all the necessary clothes in the compartment without fear that something will fall off the furniture or clothing will be damaged - if you followed the instructions, such cases are not expected.

For each wardrobe model, the manufacturer provides an assembly diagram, so if you are not sure that you are performing the assembly steps correctly, check the diagram periodically. In addition, there are many demonstration lessons on how to assemble a wardrobe: videos, audio materials, etc. You can also consult with experienced specialist, if there are problems with measurements and the correct choice of placement of the product.

High-quality built-in furniture always fits well into the interior, so before you start collecting, decide on the place in the apartment where it (the furniture) will stand. Take advantage of the knowledge you acquired after reading this article, additional information materials, and the services of specialist consultants and easily assemble or disassemble cabinets of any model with your own hands.