Bathroom interior ideas. Ideas for Modern Bathroom Design

The decoration of the walls inside the premises of the apartment, as well as the facade of the house with decorative bricks or material imitating brickwork, has never gone out of fashion. However, unfortunately, it is not always possible to use real brick for interior decoration of housing, as it will make the floor slabs of multi-storey buildings heavier. In addition, it is not so easy to make an ideal masonry “for jointing”, because this requires at least a minimum experience of a bricklayer.

It is much easier to use other interesting ways to achieve the desired result. Imitation of a brick for can be made in different ways and, which is typical, is available for installation by anyone, even a novice finisher.

The main types of brick imitation and the technology of working with them

Given the fact that brickwork has been popular for decades and has been used in reproducing various interior styles, manufacturers have not missed this moment and have developed several types of material that can replace natural brick.

Such a finish is made in different forms - it can be flexible or rigid tiles that have the size of the end side of a brick, or large wall panels that cover an entire section of the wall at once, made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), MDF or fiberglass.

Flexible tiles "under the brick"

Flexible tile that imitates brickwork is great for interior and exterior wall decoration. This modern material is not only decorative, but also a protective coating for surfaces and has a number of positive qualities - this includes resistance to external atmospheric influences, impact resistance, vapor permeability, inertness to microorganisms, as well as to ultraviolet radiation, and, of course, aesthetic appearance and a fairly simple process of processing and installation.

"Flexible brick" is easily mounted not only on straight flat surfaces, but also perfectly bends around the outer and inner corners of the premises.

A similar material is used for wall decoration inside apartments and houses, in particular, rooms such as hallways, corridors, kitchens, living rooms, loggias. It is also suitable for external, facade walls. It is very convenient to use such tiles for facing columns, fireplaces, small architectural forms, as well as in any areas where such a design is conceived. Regardless of the complexity of the surface configuration.

The tile can be used to finish the entire wall completely or fixed to its individual sections. Since the material has many colors, it is possible to make the finish monophonic or use tiles of different shades, harmoniously combining them with each other.

Installation of "flexible brick"

Installation of flexible tiles does not require complex electrical tools. It will only be necessary to prepare:

- smooth spatula 120÷150 mm wide - for mixing and applying glue;

- notched trowel with a comb 4 mm high and 150 ÷ ​​200 mm wide;

- building level with a length of 1000 ÷ 1500 mm;

- a ruler with a length of 1000 ÷ 1500 mm;

- marking colored cord for beating lines;

- a simple pencil;

- powerful scissors;

- a brush with a width of 12 mm for leveling the mortar in tile joints.

From materials other than tiles, you will need a primer for walls and a special

For installation, a dry mortar can be used - ordinary tile adhesive, but it is more convenient to use a ready-to-use composition packaged in plastic buckets. In any case, when purchasing a tile, you should immediately consult with the seller about the adhesive suitable for a particular material.

In order for the masonry to be even and neat, the wall must be put in order before installation begins, by cleaning and leveling its surface. After the leveling mortar has dried, the wall must be primed with an antiseptic compound, which will give the materials higher adhesion and prevent mold from appearing under the cladding layer in the future. When the primer is dry, you can proceed to the installation of tiles.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the fact that installation work must be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 degrees, otherwise the adhesion between the materials will be insufficient, and the tile may subsequently begin to peel off from the surface of the walls.

Brick imitation prices

brick imitation

• The first step is to draw the surface of the wall into even zones, along which glue will be applied and the tile will be fixed. If the entire wall is to be completely lined, then it is imperative to beat off the upper and lower limiting lines.
• The glue is not applied to the entire surface, but to separate lined zones, which are about 1000 × 500 mm. The layer of adhesive mass should be approximately 2 ÷ 3 mm - it is applied with an even spatula, and then distributed over the entire area to be lined with a notched trowel to obtain grooves of the same height.

• The tile is glued in order, and if the first of the rows starts with a whole tile, then the second - with a half or one third of the "brick", depending on the desired location of the masonry joints.

Dividing a “flexible brick” into parts at any angle, without the use of any power tools, is quite simple: it is marked and cut along the line with ordinary scissors.

• The seams between the rows can have different thicknesses - this parameter will depend on the preference of the master, but usually the clearance is left at 10 ÷ 12 mm. The selected size of the seams is taken into account immediately when marking the wall into zones for installation.

• "Flexible brick" easily bends around ledges formed at any angle, as well as internal corners or rounded walls, if any, on the finished surface.

• When the intended surface area is tiled, you must immediately level the mortar in horizontal and vertical joints, otherwise the glue will seize and accurate alignment will not work. The smoothing of the solution is carried out with a relatively thin brush of medium hardness, lightly moistened with water.

The fact that flexible tiles do not require additional purchase of grout for joints can also be safely called the advantage of the material, since you do not have to make extra costs.

Video: flexible facing tiles with excellent imitation of clinker bricks

Rigid facing tiles "under the brick"

Clinker tiles

Clinker tiles are not used for interior wall cladding as often as other types of material that imitate brick, as it has a fairly high price. It is often purchased for facades, given its highest performance. However, it can also be used for interior decoration, especially if you have to line a stove or fireplace.

It is made from natural highly plastic clays, without the use of artificial dyes and plasticizers. The raw material is pressed and fired at high temperatures reaching up to + 1150÷1200 degrees. Thanks to this, clinker tiles are an environmentally friendly material with unsurpassed natural qualities of durability and reliability, which are multiplied during the production process.

Such a finishing material is excellent for both interior and exterior cladding. It has a very low moisture absorption coefficient, high frost resistance and wear resistance, inertness to temperature extremes and almost any chemical attack.

The decorativeness of clinker tiles is not inferior to its physical and technical characteristics, since the variety of design options allows you to choose the material for every taste and style of the interior of the premises or the facade of the building. Finishes can have a rough, glazed or natural, unfinished surface. On sale are tiles of different sizes and shapes, and this factor also allows you to realize the most daring design ideas.

Installation of facing tiles "under the brick"

As mentioned above, all tiles that have a certain rigidity are mounted on the wall in approximately the same way. The work will require the same tools as for the "flexible brick", and in addition, to cut this material, it will be necessary to prepare a hand circular saw or a grinder with a stone disc.

The work on laying the cladding from this type of material is more complicated, since the finish already has a significant weight, and after installation it requires careful sealing of the joints between the tiles.

The lining process is carried out in the following order:

• Laying should be carried out on a prepared, primed and relatively even wall.
• The marking of the wall surface takes place in the same way as for the installation of any piece facing material: straight lines are beaten off along the upper and lower levels of the masonry, then, it is recommended that the entire distance between them be calculated and divided horizontally so that the intended number of rows can be accommodated in this area masonry, with the obligatory consideration of the thickness of the seams between them. It is especially important to carry out this process if there is not enough experience in wall cladding - marking will help to make the masonry perfectly even.

When marking, 10 ÷ 12 mm should be allocated for each of the seams between the rows.

• Further, the adhesive mass is prepared, which is selected in accordance with the type of material on the basis of which the finishing tiles are made.

• The laying starts from the bottom row, which is carefully verified by the building level, since the accuracy of the entire wall cladding will depend on its horizontalness. If the first row starts with a whole, then the second and all subsequent even rows with ½ or ⅓ tiles.
• Further, glue is applied to the wall with a spatula with a layer of 3 ÷ 4 mm. After that, the mass is distributed with a notched trowel, which leaves grooves of equal height, ensuring the most even distribution of glue when pressing the tile. When laying some heavy types of tiles (the same clinker), it is additionally recommended to apply glue on the back side of the facing material. Therefore, before starting work, you should definitely study the instructions attached to the package, which clarify the nuances of installing a particular material.

• During the installation process, it is necessary to control the evenness of each of the stacked rows.

• To ensure that the width of the seams between the tiles on the entire surface to be lined is the same, some craftsmen use special calibrator tabs of the same size. They are temporarily installed between the rows, and after the adhesive mass has set, they are removed and installed again, but already on the upper rows. As such calibrators, you can use a wooden glazing bead or silicone posts.

• For facing external corners, special curly elements are used that are able to mask existing chips and make the corners neat and protected.

• Upon completion of the masonry and after the glue has completely dried, the seams between the tiles must be securely and accurately sealed with grouts specially designed for this purpose. You can fill the seams in different ways:

- Use ready-made formulations in tubes, using a special gun.

- Place the mixed grout in a plastic bag, and then cut obliquely one of its corners to the width of the seam and gently squeeze the grout into the gaps between the rows.

Unlike PVC panels, MDF trim is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity, but it is perfect for leveling the walls of hallways, corridors, insulated balconies, and living rooms.

Manufacturers also thought about the design of the corners, making special curly elements for this.

Fiberglass panels

Special mention should be made of fiberglass panels. This facing material is made on the basis of ordinary cement with the addition of glass fiber fibers, which increases the strength of the plates tenfold. For external finishing, panels can additionally be reinforced with metal elements, which increase the weight of the structure, but make it resistant to mechanical stress.

Reinforced only with fiberglass, the panels have a not particularly frightening weight, and dimensions that are relatively compact in thickness. The solution for their manufacture is colored in bulk, so the plates are not afraid of small chips and abrasions. Some manufacturers in the production of molding sand add colored fiberglass to it, which is somewhat darker or lighter than the main tone, but in perfect harmony with it - this gives a very interesting effect. In addition, additional application of paint on the surface of already finished and assembled products is allowed.

Well suited for interior decoration, but still more often it is used to transform the facade of the walls of the building.

Environmentally friendly plates do not make the walls heavier, as they have a small mass. They perfectly protect surfaces from moisture and mechanical influences, as well as from the penetration of radio emissions into the house, and have a number of other attractive advantages. However, the cost of such facing materials is quite high, so not every owner can afford such a finish.

Installation of panels "under the brick" on the wall

If the wall surface is sufficiently flat, then the panels can be fixed to it without installing a frame structure. Lightweight PVC boards are glued to a cleaned and primed surface using one of the polymer adhesives. For example, "liquid nails" are well suited for this.

Finishing panels based on MDF have a much greater weight, therefore, in addition to glue, they are fixed on the wall with dowels in four to five places.

Fiberglass panels can be fixed to a flat wall with cement-based tile adhesive.

In the event that the wall surfaces have significant distortions, they are corrected by fixing the frame structure, consisting of metal guides or wooden beams, set exactly in the desired plane according to the building level. Some manufacturers make special subsystems for their products, mounted on a wall or on an installed frame. In this case, panels are hung on special elements of subsystems.

Subsystems can have different designs, therefore, when purchasing cladding plates and their fastening systems, it is necessary to check compatibility and the presence of the attached installation instructions.

It is clear that if it is planned to mount the panels on a subsystem, the frame elements must be located in accordance with the feature of this model.

The simplest type of fastening is plastic panels made according to the principle of siding construction. They have a special perforated mounting plate in the upper part, through the holes of which the plate is fixed on the wall or frame. In this case, horizontal elements of the crate are fixed to the wall surface, at a distance of the visible part of the slab.

Facing brick prices

facing brick

Installation of any cladding panels starts from the bottom of the wall, usually from the corner elements.

Homemade options for decorating walls under brickwork

If you want to save money by making an imitation of brickwork on one of the walls of an apartment or house with your own hands, you can use the original techniques developed by craftsmen.

There are several options that do not require special costs for the purchase of facing plates or panels, and also do not create any particular difficulties in installation:

• Independent production of tiles from expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 10 ÷ 12 mm. For this purpose, it is recommended to use extruded material with higher performance than conventional white foam.
• Creating a brickwork relief using a stencil.
• Reproduction of the desired pattern on the wall using masking tape.

Tile "under the brick" of expanded polystyrene

If it is planned to use the process of melting the edges of the foam plastic in the manufacture of tiles, then work should be carried out outdoors, protecting the respiratory tract with a respirator, since this material is combustible, and when burned and melted, it releases toxic substances.

• The first step on the prepared leveled and primed wall surface, with the help of a ruler, a plumb line, a building level and a simple pencil, is the marking of the “brickwork”. The wall is drawn into horizontal stripes and vertical partitions, which determine the size of the brick and the seams between them and the masonry rows.
• The second step is to mark the expanded polystyrene sheet on tiles of the selected size.

• Then the material is cut into individual elements with a clerical knife. The number of such blocks should correspond to the number of bricks required to decorate a certain section of the wall on which the markup was made.

• Further, in order to achieve the most reliable effect of imitation of a brick, you need to work on the resulting tile - this can be done in different ways. Its surface is treated with sandpaper in different or one direction, with a knife or other sharp instrument, notches and grooves are made on it. You can also use a heated soldering iron for this purpose.

Another option is to melt the edges and outside of the tile with a regular lighter or burner. In this case, the front surface acquires soft smoothed shapes.

• After painting the tile in the selected color, its relief will be more pronounced. The application of paint can be done before the installation of the tiles or after the wall cladding is fully completed.

Coloring can be done with a brush or by spraying the coloring composition from a cylinder. The main thing is that the paint does not cause the dissolution or softening of expanded polystyrene - it is better not to experiment with organic-based compositions, preferring water-soluble ones.

• Styrofoam tiles are laid according to wall markings using liquid nails glue, which is applied to the back surface with three points 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.
• The final step will be the design of the seams between the bricks and rows.
• It should be noted that if the design does not provide for the selection of tile joints in a different color, then the lining can be painted even after the grout solution has dried.

Imitation of brickwork using a stencil

In order to make an imitation of brickwork using a stencil, you will need a cement-based mortar. It is best to purchase it in the form of a ready-made dry mortar for plastering, as it already has all the necessary additives that make it plastic and easy to work with.

The solution can be made independently from two materials - it is a plaster and adhesive cement mixture, which are taken in 1: 1 proportions. To increase the plasticity of the solution, add a tablespoon of liquid detergent to 5 kg of the finished mixture.

• The wall must be well cleaned, primed and dried.
• The solution can be applied to its surface with a wide spatula or simply with a rubber-gloved hand. The thickness of the applied layer should be equal to the thickness of the stencil strips. This moment will depend on what surface the brick should have - smooth or rough.
• Further, so that the stencil does not have “stickiness” with the layer of the applied solution and is easily separated from it, it should be moistened with water - this can be done with a sponge or a damp cloth. If the stencil is made of rubber, then you can simply dip it into a basin of water, but in this case you need to wait until its excess stacks, otherwise excess moisture can ruin the whole job.
• After that, the stencil is pressed against the applied fresh plaster and gently pressed, so that the relief of the brickwork remains on it.
• Further, the stencil is removed and applied further, next to the freshly pressed relief. Here you need to try and attach it so that the masonry is even, and its horizontal seams do not skew.
• When the relief is applied to the entire surface, it is left to dry completely.
• After drying, the wall should be completely covered with one color - usually light shades are chosen for this, since it will be easiest to apply any color on them, as well as highlight with a dark shade or leave all the masonry seams light.

Painting imitation brickwork is already a creative process, so you can afford various fantasies. In this case, of course, it must be borne in mind that the chosen color will set the mood for the entire interior of the room.

Creating a brickwork relief using plaster and masking tape

For this technology of reproducing brickwork imitation on the wall, the composition of the cement plaster mortar and masking tape already mentioned above will be required. Some masters even use electrical tape, however, it sticks worse to the wall, and high-quality masking tape has excellent adhesion to any surface.

The width of the tape should be no more than 14 mm, and if you could not find an adhesive tape of this width, you will have to buy a wider one and carefully cut it right in the skein along the width in two. If its edges are not perfectly even, this is not at all scary, since this factor will not affect the accuracy of the relief, but rather, it will play into the hands.

• The first step is the prepared surface of the wall to be lined under the brickwork.

• Further, masking tape is glued along all the marked lines on the wall. It should be fixed in such a way that the edges of the horizontal segments of the adhesive tape extend beyond the edges of the surface being formed, and the solution should not be applied to them, and the vertical segments should be well glued to the horizontal ones, always on top of them.
• Then, on the surface of the wall, over the pasted lattice of adhesive tape, using a wide spatula, a solution is applied, with a layer thickness of 5 ÷ 6 mm - the height of the relief will depend on this parameter. Do not apply too thick a layer, otherwise you will have to cover the seams with grout.
• After applying the solution completely to the entire wall, it can be walked over with a wet rubber glove to create a surface texture. If you plan to leave the surface of the “bricks” even, then you should not touch the mortar layer.

• The most interesting stage in this method of imitating brickwork is the removal of masking tape, since after this operation the relief of the wall will be immediately visible. Several strips of adhesive tape are picked up from one of the free sides and begin to gently peel off from the wall, and as a result, seams between the “brick tiles” form in place of the peeled off tape. After removing the tape from the entire surface, the wall must be left to dry completely.

• It is recommended to dry the wall before painting - this operation will make the surface more pliable for the next stage - painting, as the paint will lie on the surface evenly and will not be absorbed into the plaster layer. What shades to choose for the wall - it already depends on the preference of the master.

Video: How to imitate brickwork with plaster and masking tape

From all of the above, we can conclude that the construction market has an overabundance of various materials that ideally imitate brickwork or other stone surfaces. Sometimes the quality of the imitation is such that, when finished, it cannot be distinguished from real brick in terms of texture and color. Well, if the finished tiles or panels do not fit into the family budget in any way, then it is quite possible to use one of the more economical methods and decorate the wall using affordable materials for this.

Brickwork, made by the hands of a master, looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. Many home owners decide that she will decorate their house not only outside, but also inside.

But over time, it may require either repair or some kind of external refinement to match the overall style of the interior. This article will describe several ways to ennoble a brick wall on your own.

Brick wall repair

Repair of brickwork is necessary if cracks appear on it, the seams crumble, and the brick itself begins to stick poorly or collapse from time to time. Just plastering the wall is not an option, since you want to preserve the original appearance of the surface.

Preparatory work

Methods for eliminating defects depend on their type and degree of wear, but in any case, careful preparation of the surface for repair is necessary first.

You will have to do the following:

• Remove a layer of old paint or plaster, if any;
• Clean cracks and seams from mortar residue, dirt and dust using a stiff brush;
• Rinse the wall with clean water;
• Dry thoroughly.

The most difficult of the above is cleaning the walls of plaster, protruding from the mortar joints and adhering cement.

There are two ways to clean brick from cement:

• Mechanical. Before starting work, the surface is well moistened with water - so the solution is easier to clean. Flat spots are cleaned off with a spatula or trowel. You can also use a metal brush, but it scratches the surface, especially sand-lime brick. Volumetric pieces of cement are chipped off with a chisel and a hammer. To finally remove all contamination, use sandpaper or a grinder.

• Chemical. Special tools for softening cement mortar can be bought and used for their intended purpose, following the manufacturer's recommendations. And you can dilute sulfuric or hydrochloric acid with water in a ratio of 1:10, and apply the solution on the wall for 10-30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the cement. After that, remove it mechanically, and rinse the surface with water. Of course, you must remember to protect your eyes and skin.

Note! This method is only suitable for red ceramic bricks, but not for silicate. Cleaning solutions contain acids that corrode it. But if aging and painting of silicate bricks are planned in the future, you can try it.

Restoration of old masonry

The most difficult question may be how to repair the brickwork if the brick crumbles and does not hold well in its place. A crumbling stone is subject to mandatory replacement, since moisture penetrates into the masonry through it, which will eventually lead to larger-scale negative consequences.

Therefore, such bricks are removed from the wall, for which the seams around them are embroidered to the maximum depth with a chisel and a hammer or perforator.

If necessary, adjacent stones are also removed. Those that have not been destroyed should be tried not to hurt and left in place. After removing the defective elements, the surface is prepared for restoration as described above.

Note. It is rather difficult to match the new brick to the old masonry in terms of color and texture. It may have to be artificially aged with your own hands. How this is done will be discussed a little later.

The whole process looks something like this:

Image	Description
	After excavating the brick, we remove the remains of the mortar and dust from the resulting niche. Wet the surface.
	At the bottom of the niche with a layer of 1-1.2 cm we lay the solution.
	We dip the brick into the water, and on all faces, except for the bottom and front, we apply the solution.
	We install the stone in a niche and sink it, align it flush with the wall by tapping the mallet on the front edge.
	We remove the excess solution and embroider the seams.
	Rub the seams around the new element with a damp sponge.

The instruction at first glance is very simple, but in the process there may be surprises with the destruction of large sections of masonry. If you are not sure that you can handle it yourself, it is better to invite a specialist.

Seam restoration

Quite often, the repair of the brickwork of buildings requires only the restoration of seams and the sealing of small cracks. To do this, you need to embroider them as deeply as possible with a hammer and chisel, clean them of dirt, moisten and fill with fresh mortar.

The question is which one exactly? The fact is that old walls can be built on lime mortar, which is “not friendly” with cement. In this case, you will have to prepare a similar one.

If you could not determine the composition of the old solution, prepare a mixture of the following components:

• White Portland cement - 1 part;
• Fine sand - 6 parts;
• Lime - 2 parts;
• Water.

Or use clay by pressing it into the seams with a block of wood of the appropriate thickness.

In the case of cement mortar masonry, you can take a ready-made cement-adhesive mixture and add a little gypsum to it. It compensates for the shrinkage of the seams and accelerates setting.

Deep seams should not be filled in one go - it is better to do it in stages, waiting for each layer to set. Excess solution from the surface is removed immediately, until it has set, with a wet sponge.

Upon completion of the repair work, it is desirable to treat the walls with a deep penetration primer, varnish or other protective agent.

Three Ways to Change the Look of a Brick Wall

Brickwork can become a highlight of the interior, if you work on it a little. Among the options for its transformation, the most popular are cladding, painting and artificial aging. The choice will depend on the initial quality of the surface and the style in which the entire room is designed.

Brick paneling

Often, even after professional repair, the old wall looks unsightly, although there are no complaints about strength. In the event that you do not want to lose the texture, but it was not possible to bring the surface into a decent appearance, you can veneer it with decorative panels that imitate masonry.

This can be a brick basement siding, PVC, MDF or gypsum panels, as well as clinker tiles or thin facing bricks. And thermal panels are perfect for finishing and insulating external walls.

The installation method for these materials is different:

• Wall panels are attached to the frame;
• Facing tiles are glued to the surface with glue.

See some examples of such materials and their applications:

Do not be afraid to experiment with materials, but always pay attention to their characteristics and scope. For example, brick basement siding can be used for interior decoration. But gypsum tiles for exterior cladding are not suitable.

Painting

You can save the relief by transforming the perception of space by painting the masonry. This technique is very common among designers, as it allows you to design a room in different styles, depending on the chosen color and method of painting.

But it should be remembered that subsequently it will be impossible to return the wall to its original appearance, getting rid of the paint layer. Therefore, before making this decision, think carefully and look at examples of such interiors.

Accent wall in the bedroom

Of great importance is the choice of finishing composition. When deciding how to paint a silicate brick outside, pay attention to the following paint characteristics:

• Waterproof. It should protect the facade from precipitation and humid air.
• Vapor permeability. The wall must "breathe", otherwise it will be damp, which will lead to mold.
• Resistant to fading under UV rays.
• Resistant to alkaline environments, since masonry mortar containing alkalis can destroy the coating.

For interior paints, the requirements are softer, so the choice is almost unlimited. The only thing that can upset you is the high price. But if instead of silicone or latex coatings you choose acrylic, or ordinary slaked lime, the result will be no worse.

Advice. The brick is very hygroscopic, therefore, before painting, the masonry must be treated with an acrylic-based penetrating primer. This will save on paint.

One more piece of advice. Don't paint new walls. It is necessary to wait at least a year for the leaching process of the solution to end, and the masonry to dry out and shrink. Before painting, the walls must be cleaned of dust, dirt, salt deposits and mold and dried.

Aging

Many interior solutions require you to turn a new, smooth and even masonry into an old one, battered by time. As you know, breaking is not building, and the task of how to age a brick wall is much easier to solve than the reverse.

To do this, use the following methods (all en masse or selectively):

• Surface treatment with abrasives- coarse sandpaper, a wire brush or even a sandblaster.

• The device of chips and cracks. They can be made along the edges and corners of a brick or on its faces in a chaotic manner. Tools - chisel and hammer, perforator.
• Imitation of efflorescence with white paint applied with a sponge or swab, also in random order. Or imitation of the remnants of plaster.

• "Soiling" of the surface. Excellent black spots and stripes that will not crumble and stain clothes are made with a blowtorch, with which the walls are burned until the color changes.

After such processing, the walls will need additional protection. So that they do not collapse and easily endure cleaning, they are coated with a special oil or water-based varnish.

Conclusion

Brick walls in the interior look very impressive if they are correctly “fitted” into the overall design style. Knowing how brickwork is repaired and visually transformed, you can also make your home design unique. And the video in this article will help you with this.

Today, the use of brick or its imitation in design is very popular. It is used in various rooms and styles: loft, industrial, Scandinavian. Many people like the idea of ​​giving wall coverings an imitation of real brick, and there is nothing complicated in its implementation.

Finishing methods

There are two ways to do this finish. The first is gypsum tile cladding, which fakes brick and is applied over wet plaster. The second way is to imitate brickwork when creating a relief surface. This semblance of masonry will bring originality and freshness to the interior.

The surface of the walls, finished in brick, unites the strict lines of the rows and highlights the special decor of the texture of each square. The natural surface of a brick is rough and uneven, so many people use its imitation. This method of decoration is preferred to natural brickwork, and it belongs to the loft architectural style.

Peculiarities

When choosing a material for this finish, the following criteria are taken into account: aesthetics, pricing and harmlessness.

In this case, brick imitation plaster is the most suitable option, which has a number of advantages:

• The purchase of this material does without large financial investments.
• Wall cladding takes relatively little time.
• Such a coating is applied in a thin layer, and you do not have to worry about narrowing the room.

• It is easy to apply such a coating with your own hands, without involving specialists and avoiding additional expenses.
• Brick plaster can decorate not only the surface of the wall, but also an apron in the kitchen, corners or doorways.
• Such plaster imitates the finishing of expensive clinker tiles.

How to choose plaster

Before starting work, it is necessary to purchase all the necessary materials in advance. In terms of imitation of brickwork, gypsum plaster is most acceptable, while When buying, you should pay attention to the following characteristics of the material:

• It should be easy to apply and have elasticity.
• It is important that there is no shrinkage property after hardening.
• Before application, there should be no preliminary and additional puttying of surfaces.
• The material must be environmentally friendly and harmless.

But still, preference should be given to ready-made mixtures, they have greater elasticity and ease of use. This material, diluted to the desired consistency, is sold in a ready-to-use form. Such a mixture is a homogeneous mass that can be applied immediately. The advantage of such plaster is also that the container with the remaining mixture is tightly closed, and it can be used even after a long time.

Dry mixes can be varied and heterogeneous. They include various components, for example, an additive in the form of large stone chips. To do this, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging for which surface this composition is suitable.

For the primer of the working surface, a lot of different compositions are also produced in liquid and pasty form. But before this type of work, it is better to treat the wall with a deep penetration liquid composition.

Application process

Before you start creating a simulated brick surface, you need to find out if the walls are suitable for such work. They must have a flat surface and not a "littered" state, a suitable wall relative to the floor has an angle of 90 degrees. It is important that there are no large pits, bumps and failures. If there are any, using cement mortar, beacons and plaster mesh, leveling should be done.

You can evaluate the state of a surface by applying a long rule to it. If gaps of more than 3 cm per meter of length appear between the rule and the wall surface, proceed with leveling.

If there are small defects (cracks, small irregularities) on a straight wall, there is no need to plaster it, just close the imperfections with cement or putty. After complete drying, it is necessary to treat the surface with a deep penetration primer, having previously mixed glue into it. Priming is required, otherwise the decorative layer of plaster will begin to flake off and fall off over time.

Plaster mortar must be applied before work, prepare an auxiliary tool so that it is always at hand if necessary: ​​a skein of adhesive tape, a wide and narrow spatula, a rule or a laser level and a lace for displaying beacons. It is very convenient to direct the mixture with a drill, on which the mixer is attached - a special nozzle for thorough mixing. In order not to spoil the flooring, lay an oilcloth.

After fulfilling all the necessary conditions, you can start laying the plaster mixture. The simplest and most applicable method involves the addition of color to the induced solution. You just need to dilute the dry solution, as indicated in the instructions for use, add the coloring element there and mix everything thoroughly using a mixer.

If you have never encountered such work, in this case, you should not direct too much solution. After some time, you need to try to work it out, otherwise it will seize and become unusable for application. It is necessary to direct the solution to a certain viscosity until it acquires the consistency of thick sour cream and begins to slide off the spatula evenly, without falling in pieces.

The induced solution is taken on a spatula and thrown onto the surface, while smoothing upwards. If you want the surface to imitate brick, do not try to level the applied mortar too smoothly. The brick does not have a smooth surface, it is usually uneven and rough.

When decorating a brick, it is necessary to take into account the width of the seam; if this condition is not observed, the appearance of the finished surface will be unnatural. In this case, the dimensions of the most common brick are not very important, since this material is made both elongated and square.

Currently, textured and embossed non-standard bricks are produced. And this type of plaster can imitate. Starting to perform such work, it is preferable to have some experience gained when finishing by imitation of ordinary standard bricks.

When applying seams between falsified bricks, use a ruler, or better, a rule. Then the line will be perfectly flat. If you want a curved line, you can draw it by hand. The seam must be done before the solution hardens on the surface. When carrying out the strips, excess will appear, which are well cleaned with a dry cloth.

Thus, each applied pattern is “drawn” in turn. A prerequisite is that the coating must be wet, the decor must be applied even before the mortar sets or hardens. After this process, the surfaces are allowed to harden and should not be touched during drying. To obtain the original texture of the bricks, you can draw on the decor with a dry and hard brush.

After the wallcovering has dried and gained strength, use sandpaper and sand the decor, but this depends on your preference. The last point is the removal of all unnecessary plaster elements that spoil the pattern. The subsequent processing of the resulting decorative surface will depend on the type of solution used and the presence of coloring elements in it, which are not always added.

Colour

It does not make sense to leave a plaster imitating brick in a natural light gray tone. That's why they paint it. In this process, there are many design options and complete freedom of choice, it all depends on your taste. Natural brick has different shades, so you can mix several options for color pigments, achieving the best visual similarity.

You can first apply a layer of paint of one color, and after a few minutes create a different color or give individual bricks a brighter look. In natural brickwork there is a variety of shades, therefore, a decorative coating that imitates brick can have many tones.

You can experiment with colors without fear of spoiling it., bricks are currently produced in a variety of colors - from bright to dark. And few people will be able to guess that the “masonry” is fake. Spoil the look of the interior can only be a discrepancy between the imitation of masonry in color with furniture or flooring. Therefore, when covering, select matching tones.

Also, a decorative coating that imitates brick is made by hand using adhesive tape. For this process, construction tape is required in width equal to the seam during masonry. Then, on the wall covering, which is finished with plaster imitating brick, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn along the ruler corresponding to the connecting seam. In this case, it should be taken into account that the vertical lines through one horizontal row are shifted by half a brick. The drawn strips are painted over the entire length with a paint similar to the color of the applied mixture, and after drying, adhesive tape is glued to the painted lines.

Be sure to first glue the horizontal, and only then - the vertical stripes, in a different order, it will be difficult to remove them later.

Then a layer of decorative plaster is applied to the glued adhesive tape, while smoothing it and leveling it. Smoothness will depend on your preference for embossed or perfectly flat decor.

As soon as the applied solution begins to harden, remove the adhesive tape. A little effort is enough to pull the horizontally pasted strip, and the whole structure will peel off easily. After complete drying, you can apply any method of finishing the decorative wall under the brick.

A decorative brick wall looks more realistic when painted in a tone that is lighter than the material itself. After drying, the paint becomes darker.

An expensive option for decorating walls is not for everyone, and if you have to work with your own hands, then decorative plaster can become the most affordable. You can’t do without preliminary alignment of the walls, but at the same time you will save the usable area in the room.

First, as expected, remove a layer of old plaster from the wall, or wallpaper - in a word, the old finish. If during the inspection you find cracks, potholes, they need to be filled with cement mortar. If necessary, the corners are aligned.

The entire surface is treated with a deep penetration primer. This is necessary for good adhesion and surface disinfection. Masters advise adding a little PVA glue to the primer to improve the quality of the primer.

Of the tools and materials you will need:

• Mix container;
• spatulas;
• masking tape;
• Master OK;
• Level or rule;
• Painting mesh;
• Drill for mixing mortar;
• Lace or thread for lighthouses;
• Stucco mesh.

And cover the floor with oilcloth before work, do not forget to protect your hands with gloves.

Preparing walls for plaster (video)

Do-it-yourself brick wall from plaster: technology

The process, of course, is laborious, but, what pleases, it is creative. If you do it yourself, and even for the first time, strictly follow the sequence of steps.

Technology for applying plaster under a brick:

• Wall marking is needed if you are doing such an imitation of brickwork only on a fragment of the wall, and not on the entire surface. With a simple pencil, draw the outlines of the bricks. And masking tape will be needed in order to limit the space for work.
• Prime the wall, preferably with an acrylic primer. It is easier to do this with a foam roller. In hard-to-reach places, it is better to prime with a brush.
• In order to make the finishing mass, you need to prepare water and gypsum plaster. The mixture should be thick so that it does not flow down the wall. If you want, add dye to the solution to make the future "brick" look more realistic.
• Plaster only the area that can be covered only at one time. Carry out the next step until the solution has dried.
• A surface covered with wet plaster is ideal for making bricks. Take any sharp object such as a knitting needle, and use it to push through the strips that look like gaps separating one brick from another.

You can even make an imitation of texture on the wall surface with your own hands. To do this, with a dry hard brush, draw over an almost dried-up imitation of masonry.

The grouting of the wall with fine sandpaper completes the work. Decorative plaster is painted with a roller, choose shades according to the color as reminiscent of natural brick as possible.

Brick plastering technology (video)

Imitation of brickwork with putty

An alternative method of brick imitation is to use putty and special narrow construction tape.

DIY brickwork imitation:

• On a plastered dry wall, mark the seams so that the rectangles of each subsequent row move to the rectangles of the previous one.
• Carefully paint over the marked seams with the desired paint, wait for it to dry.
• On top of this layer along the lines of horizontal seams, glue strips of construction tape, and stick short vertical strips of tape on top of them.
• On top of this adhesive tape, apply a fairly thin layer of putty on the wall, smooth the surface of this layer, and leave the irregularities such that they are enough to create the desired texture.
• After the putty has hardened, remove the adhesive tape. To do this, you can simply remove the horizontal stripes, and the vertical ones will be removed along with them.
• Wait until the putty has completely hardened.

Brickwork: ways to imitate

If you are not satisfied with the option where only one plaster works, the brick can be made in a different way. For example, corrugated cardboard is often used, which is cut in the right amount to fit the sides of the brick sides. You must smear each such cardboard brick with PVA glue with your own hands. To complete the image of masonry imitation, paper napkins can be used, the top layer of which will perform the function of decoupage - if you need a decorative finish for a wall fragment, this is a very good option.

What else, if not just plaster? Brick can also be made by embossing with a stencil. This work is carried out on fresh plaster. How to do this - you use a polymer or rubber flat stencil, it has an embossed pattern of brickwork on it. Moisten the stencil with water and press it against the plastered wall. And then it is taken away from the wall, and in front of you is brick after brick.

This option is easier than scratching out each brick, but more expensive. After all, not only plaster is required, but also the stencil itself. However, the surface will be like after the work of a team of craftsmen - everything is accurate and even. This cycle must be repeated for as long as you get the entire surface with imitation of brickwork.

Do-it-yourself decorative brick plaster (video)

A brick wall is always beautiful, stylish, modern. And imitation of such a wall is not the worst option, and not the most expensive, which is very important. Choose the way you like and do everything step by step.

Happy repair!

Brick is a strong, durable material used mainly for the construction of walls, interior and exterior decoration. But it is not always possible to apply it - voluminous, thick bricks will make a small room very cramped. Therefore, high-quality imitation of brickwork is used for finishing work in residential and office premises. There are a great many options for its execution, they differ in the degree of complexity, similarity with natural brick.

In the interior of which rooms you can apply the decor of brickwork

The execution of the facades of the building, the interior of the brick - it's always beautiful. But real bricks cannot be used everywhere - they significantly increase the weight of the floors, and not everyone has the skills of a bricklayer to make high-quality masonry.

Decor that imitates masonry of red, white, any other brick looks good in almost any room. For spacious rooms, dark, cold, saturated colors are suitable, for cramped, dimly lit rooms - lighter, warmer ones.

This design is most often used in loft, industrial, art-believe interiors, less often in classic, modern, minimalism, Provence. Fake masonry indoors can cover all the walls of the room, frame window openings, door frames, look like narrow, wide, medium dividing strips. Also, with its help, separate logical zones are distinguished, a fireplace, arched structures are made out.

The more spacious the room being designed, the larger images of bricks are used for it and vice versa.

In the hall

The front or hall is a kind of “face” of the apartment, all interior design “dances” from it. Here, brick finishing is acceptable on all walls, with rare interspersed with decor that is suitable in meaning - painted ivy branches, decorative cracks, etc. An excessively long corridor is zoned with vertical brick lines, arches located at the same distance from each other - this is how its shape and size are adjusted , height.

In the living room

In the hall, most often, not the entire room is decorated with brick props, but only one of its walls. A fireplace or a false fireplace looks organic here, looking as if it was made of real brick, several zoning partitions. If the living room is completely combined with the kitchen, then only the kitchen or living room is finished with bricks. Suppose the option of creating a brick dividing strip between separate zones. Bottles, boxes, with colored bricks painted with acrylic, pictures applied using the decoupage technique, made using ordinary putty, will organically complement the overall picture.

In the bedroom

In the bedroom, not only the walls are finished with brick decor, but also the podium (if any), on which the sleeping place is located. The same design will allow you to beautifully zone a large room, finishing with a brick only a mini-study or dressing area. Wall murals are best suited, ceramic tiles are not recommended - they are too cold.

Even a minimally embossed imitation of a brick becomes voluminous with the right arrangement of the backlight.

In bathroom

Special requirements are imposed on the imitation of brick in the bathroom - it must be moisture resistant, not collapse, not deform in direct contact with water. Ceramic or flexible rectangular tiles, polystyrene foam painted with moisture-resistant paint are suitable here. The color depends on the size of the room - the tighter it is, the lighter the coating is chosen.

During installation, waterproofing materials, silicone sealants, etc. are used.

In the kitchen

An imitation of a brick for this room is made out a kitchen apron made of plastic, glass, with a pattern applied to it. All materials must be waterproof, which is especially important for the area near the sink, gas stove, easy to clean from grease without the use of harsh abrasives, aggressive detergents.

On the balcony, loggia

Insulated, glazed balcony, spacious loggia can be combined with any room - bedroom, kitchen, living room through the same coverage with the main room. As an option: the room is finished with white or yellow painted bricks, the balcony - with a darker imitation of plaster. Here, plastic panels are most often used along with foam insulation, polyurethane, mineral wool, etc.

In the nursery

For children, brick decor is rarely used, it looks no less organic than in other rooms. This design is often used in teenage rooms - industrial, loft, pop art and similar styles almost in their purest form look most organic there. You can decorate the room in this way with the children, simply by depicting the bricks with acrylic paints, watercolors, gouache, markers. The effect of an old brick will turn out if you draw small cracks in some places with a gel pen.

Soft, flexible tiles - advantages, disadvantages of the material

Soft tiles are one of the most “believable” variations in creating realistic masonry. The flexible option is water-resistant, which is important when used in wet areas of the bathroom or toilet, home pool, greenhouse. This material has significant impact resistance, durability, it is vapor permeable, resistant to mold, fungus, easy to process, does not change color from exposure to the sun, and has a beautiful appearance. Also, the positive properties of flexible tiles include the fact that it will be mounted not only on perfectly flat walls, but also on convex, concave interior elements - arches, internal, external corners, window slopes, brackets, fireplaces, round columns, small architectural forms, having a complex configuration.

Necessary tools, installation steps

To finish the interior with “soft bricks”, you will need some tools that are available in almost every home:

• a metal spatula, 13-17 cm wide, with which it will be stirred, an adhesive composition will be applied;
• spatula 16-19 cm wide, with teeth, about four mm high;
• a ruler made of wood, plastic or metal 100-150 cm long;
• building level 100-150 cm long;
• center cord of bright color, for beating straight lines;
• large sharp scissors;
• a simple construction pencil for marking;
• medium-hard brush 10-13 mm wide. To align the seams between the tiles.

From the materials you need:

• the flexible tile itself is of a suitable color, size;
• tile adhesive - a dry mix in a paper bag or a finished composition in a plastic bucket;
  quality primer.

Step by step process:

• the surface, which it is decided to decorate, is preliminarily well cleaned of old coatings, leveled;
• after the wall with the leveling compound applied to it dries, it is primed with an antiseptic so that fungus and mold do not “wound” under the lining, and adhesion is maximum;
• after drying the layer, the tiles are directly installed. It is important to do it at a temperature not lower than five to seven degrees, since in the case of a lower one, the adhesion of the tile to the wall is reduced. This will negatively affect the appearance of the finished surface, individual parts in general can quickly fall off;
• then the wall should be drawn into identical rectangles, where tile adhesive will subsequently be applied. If it is supposed to decorate the entire wall completely, the limiter lines at the top and bottom are necessarily beaten off;
• the adhesive composition is not uniformly applied everywhere, but only on separate zones, 50 by 100 cm in size. The layer thickness is two to four mm. The application is made with a flat spatula, after which the surface is “passed” with a spatula with teeth to make furrows;
• the bricks themselves are usually made with parameters of 25 by 12 cm or 10 by 15 cm - the material is easily cut with simple scissors. With serial laying, the first level begins with a whole “brick”, the second - with half or one third. Before cutting, the material is marked with a pencil and a ruler;
• during the installation process, it is important to observe the same width of the joints between the tiles - usually it is nine to thirteen mm, but other values ​​\u200b\u200bare acceptable. The horizontality of the rows is periodically checked with a level - the tile should not “walk”, move excessively up or down;
• when the row "rests" against the inner or outer corner, the tile is carefully bent, sticking like everyone else. Rounded, wavy elements, columns, fireplaces are faced in exactly the same way;
• each time when another area of ​​about one square meter is pasted over with tiles, the tile joints are smoothed out with a wet narrow brush. This must be done before the glue grabs, completely hardens;
• special grout for the space between flexible bricks is not required, which significantly reduces the cost of finishing.

Options for hard facing tiles, their advantages, disadvantages

Rigid tiles are made of gypsum, ceramics, cement, mounted on a concrete, plasterboard wall, or other suitable structure. As part of this decor, various pigments, fiber fibers, and plasticizers are often present. The elements are mounted on an adhesive composition suitable for one or another option. The finished finish looks as close as possible to real bricks, especially if they are painted in the right color.

Before starting finishing work, it should be noted that solid tiles have a fairly large weight, creating an additional load on the foundation, the walls of the room.

Gypsum

Gypsum decor has a very diverse design. This material is light, parts can be cast independently using silicone, plastic molds. Gypsum is not recommended for use in damp areas, as it is excessively hygroscopic. In the living room or bedroom they are often decorated with fireplaces - the microclimate in such a room will be as favorable as possible. The low price of gypsum allows you to create a noble finish at the lowest cost.

Gypsum elements are allowed to decorate internal and external walls. Curly details are taken to process the corners, giving the finish a neat appearance, protecting the walls from chips and mechanical damage.

Gypsum-based glue is used for installation, for

sealing seams using a special grout.

Cement

Cement decor also has a low price, it comes in a variety of colors - gray, red-brown, white, black, etc. Such an artificial brick is used even in winter in unheated rooms, as it consists of one part of high-grade Portland cement, two or three parts of sand. It is cast in silicone molds - it is permissible to paint the solution at this stage, or with a roller, sponge, brush, decorate a finished product, which is a wall masonry element, under a brick or stone detail. Artificial bricks are textured, feel like real ones.

Clinker

Clinker is relatively expensive, so it is rarely used for interior decoration. It is very durable - it is this option that is recommended for lining stoves, fireplaces, and the outer walls of the building. Clinker tiles contain highly plastic clay, pressed, fired at high temperatures - 1100-1300 degrees. Artificial pigments, plasticizers are not added - this material is the most environmentally friendly, reliable, will last a long time without losing its performance, attractive appearance. Clinker is wear-resistant, has high frost resistance, practically does not absorb water, it is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, strong chemicals, detergents.

Clinker tiles are very decorative - they are available glossy and matte, covered with transparent glaze or with a natural rough surface. The variety of shapes, colors, sizes, textures will allow you to choose it for almost any interior style.

Installation, painting tiles

It is possible to glue rigid tiles from various materials in almost the same way. In addition to tools for marking, applying adhesive, you will need a circular saw for sawing tiles, a grinder with stone discs. The process of laying rigid tiles is more time consuming than flexible tiles, due to its large weight, the need for careful sealing of the joints between individual tiles.

Working process:

• installation is carried out on the most even surface, previously cleaned of previous coatings, dirt, grease;
• marking is done with an ordinary pencil, a ruler, the recommended tile distance is 9-13 mm;
• the composition of the adhesive mass depends on the material used to make the tiles;
• laying is usually done from one of the lower corners. Odd rows start with a whole tile, even rows start with half;
• glue is applied to the wall, distributed with a notched trowel. For heavy clinker tiles, it is recommended to apply an additional layer of mortar on the back wall of each element;
• each subsequent row is checked by a level - until the glue has hardened, you can make some adjustments. If desired, use direct calibration inserts, which are wooden, silicone strips, about one centimeter wide, inserted between the rows;
• for internal, external corners, special curly details are used to make the corners look neat;
• when the installation is completed, the seams must be filled with grout. For its application, a special gun and a ready-made mixture in a tube are used. As an option, the grout is diluted to the desired degree of density, placed in a tight plastic bag, the corner of which is cut off, the solution is gently squeezed out into the aisles;
• avoid getting grout on the front surface of parts, especially with a rough surface - it will be extremely difficult to remove it;
• to align the filling of the seams, a special stitching tool is used. This should be done before the grout becomes hard - for about 20 minutes;
• painting is done with a decorative composition of a suitable color scheme.

Characteristics, pros, cons of interior panels

Panels for the original interior design "under the brick" are made of a variety of materials:

• hardboard;
• fiberglass concrete;
• chipboard and others.

They differ in the degree of similarity to real bricks, size, color, thickness, durability. The installation of most types is very simple - the wall is literally assembled like a puzzle or the parts are stacked end-to-end.

Panels can be wall, ceiling.

PVC, MDF panels

Parts made of polyvinyl chloride are the most popular in modern times, because of their environmental friendliness, safety, relatively affordable cost. In second place are panels made of modified fiber boards. Shops offer the widest range of such “antique” decor, “wild stone”, etc. MDF is cut with an electric jigsaw, a hand saw, PVC with sharp scissors, a paper knife.

The main advantage of the materials described above is that it is easy to finish even the most uneven walls with them, which do not need to be pre-prepared, leveled, putty. In cases where it is necessary to hide engineering communications in spacious rooms, the panels are mounted on a metal or wood frame. PVC panels are used in rooms with different temperatures and degrees of humidity. For sound and heat insulation, a layer of insulation is used in parallel with the panels. MDF is not used in wet rooms - it is suitable for living rooms, there are also corner pieces in the assortment.

Embossed panels made of hardboard, fiberglass, fiberboard, gypsum, etc. are mounted in approximately the same way.

Fiberglass panels

Glass fiber cement parts are durable and beautiful. The composition of the material includes high-quality cement, fiberglass (including non-ferrous), many times increasing the strength of products, in the production of outdoor work, reinforcement with metal structures is often used, which increase the total mass of the structure, increasing its mechanical resistance to any influences. The material is environmentally friendly, they protect the house from radio emission, but its cost is high, therefore it is not available to everyone.

Technology, methods of fastening panels

Interior panels are attached to a flat wall with any polymer adhesive, for example, “liquid nails”. For curved, “humpbacked” surfaces, a metal frame with a special hinged system will be required. Heavy MDF panels are additionally mounted with dowels in three to five places. Fiberglass structures are attached to a flat surface using cement tile adhesive.

Wallpaper for brick coating

Brick-like wallpaper is the cheapest, most economical, but not very durable option. Their main advantage is that special skills, tools for installation are not required, as well as invitations of highly qualified specialists. The usable area of ​​the rooms does not decrease at all, after the completion of the work there is practically no garbage left. Paper, vinyl wallpapers do not make the structure heavier, even thin drywall can withstand them. Liquid wallpaper is easily applied to the wall of any curvature, their implementation resembles the installation of cement mortar tiles.

Homemade wall decoration options

There can be several ways to decorate a homemade "brick" wall:

• details are drawn by hand directly on the wall surface;
• you can use a stencil, templates made of plastic, plywood;
• from corrugated cardboard, pasted over with decoupage napkins;

Styrofoam is a cheap, easily processed material. You can get ordinary polystyrene from cardboard boxes from under furniture, household appliances. Blocks of dense polystyrene foam are purchased in the construction markets. The work process is simple: bricks of a suitable size are cut out of this material, irregularities are polished with sandpaper. Details are glued to the wall, ceiling with tile glue, "liquid nails", PVA glue, painted with acrylic, other water-based paint. Irregularities are pre-created with a soldering iron, a clerical knife.
Tip: the preferred size of the bricks is 250 by 120 mm, the distance between them is one to two mm.

The use of a stencil in imitation of brickwork

The stencil is cut out of a thick sheet of cardboard, rubber, linoleum, bought ready-made in the store. Applying paint, plaster is carried out using a smooth spatula, spray can, brush, sponge, fabric roller. The wall is marked out, retreating from the floor three to seven centimeters, leaving room for seams of 10-15 mm. The most common size of a purchased template is 6.5 cm by 20 cm, almost any can be made at home.

If not a solid, but a partial imitation of a brick is planned, the layout is graphically depicted on paper.

A detailed master class on creating a brickwork relief using masking tape, plaster

One of the options for finishing an old or fresh “brick-like” wall is concrete. For work you will need:

• primer mixture;
• high-quality plaster;
• narrow masking tape;
• stationery knife;
• putty knife;
• containers for breeding compounds;
• a drill with a special nozzle, another tool for mixing the solution.

The wall is pre-cleaned of the previous decor - wallpaper, paint, plaster, etc., if necessary, it is leveled, and then primed. At the initial stage, marking is very important - a marking cord or an iron tape measure is used for it. It is desirable to mark with respect to pre-filled strictly horizontal profiles under the ceiling.

Next, a narrow adhesive tape is glued onto the wall so that something similar to bricks is obtained. Plaster, tile adhesive, rotband are applied over the tape and the entire wall with a layer of five to eight millimeters. After the solution has slightly set, the adhesive tape is carefully peeled off, the gaps are leveled with a wooden stack, a hard brush.

Instead of plaster, ordinary tile adhesive is often used; it is recommended that all work be carried out with gloves.

Conclusion

Decorating an apartment with fake, painted, pasted bricks is a very popular type of decoration. The simplest options are easy to reproduce with your own hands, for more complex ones you will need not only the advice of specialists, but also their direct participation. Various variations of fake brickwork are selected for almost any popular interior style - from classic to loft. It will be possible to decorate with bricks both the entire house and a small area in the room.