Primary caulking of a log house. Caulking a log house, step-by-step instructions from professionals

Putting up a log house from a log or timber is not the whole task. It is also necessary to properly caulk this log house: to seal the gaps between the crowns and the cracks that form when the wood dries out. This is done so that the log house of the bathhouse loses as little heat as possible. The quality of the log house's assembly is determined by how the crowns are laid. It is important not only to cut out the bowls and grooves correctly, but also to lay inter-crown insulation between two rows of logs or beams.

The insulation is installed during the assembly stage of the log house

What it will be - moss, tow or jute - is up to you, but such a layer must be present. When building a log house, you need to lay insulation in two layers:

• on lower crown so that the edges of the insulation protrude beyond the edges of the bowl by 3-5 cm, the width of the insulation, in general, is taken 5-10 cm more than the width of the bowl;
• Insulation is also placed in the bowl of the upper crown; its edges protrude beyond the bowl by 3-5 cm.

Please note that when using moss or tow, there is no need to “tap” the material. When tapped with a hammer or an ax butt, the moss fibers break and dents form on the wood, which are directed across the fibers. Such damage can lead, in the future, to the development of foci of rotting. It is enough to simply compact the fibers with the palm of your hand, leveling and probing the layer; if you come across large foreign objects (cones or sticks are often found in moss), simply remove them.

When using tape insulation, you can fix it using a construction stapler - damage to the wood from the staples is minimal, and the material is held securely. It is advisable for two people to lay the “insulated” crowns so that they can take the log from both ends and lower it so as not to move the insulation.

All materials for caulking can be divided into two main categories: natural (tow, hemp, moss, jute, etc.) and industrial sealants. Sealants are applied faster and easier to work with. Usually, to reduce the consumption of sealant, a cord is placed in the gap between the rims, and only then a sealant is applied on top of it, which, when wet, is leveled with a special spatula.

Synthetic sealants have a number of disadvantages:

• some of them do not tolerate exposure to ultraviolet radiation - when irradiated, they lose their properties, crumble and are blown away by the winds. The problem is solved by strengthening strips that will cover the seams from ultraviolet radiation;
• Some sealants for log houses, when dry, form a monolith, which, when the wood expands/contracts (depending on weather conditions) interferes with the process and contributes to the destruction of adjacent wood fibers. For this reason, it makes sense to use flexible sealants.

The video shows how to use Eurotex acrylic sealant for wood.

As a tool for leveling and removing excess sealant, you can use a regular tablespoon.

If you decide to use one of the sealants, carefully read the instructions and description, make sure that it is compatible with the type of wood from which the log house is built and can be used in your region ( temperature regime) and has the necessary qualities.

The use of sealant is justified in the case when it is used to seal caulked cracks: after caulking the log house twice with tow, moss or jute, wait for the log house to completely shrink and acquire operational dimensions, after which a cord is laid in the seams, and then the sealant is applied.

Natural materials for caulking also have their advantages and disadvantages, in addition, each of them requires certain preparation.

Moss

The most proven material for caulking a bathhouse is moss. It has been used for centuries. Today, many other materials have appeared, but they have not surpassed moss in terms of characteristics. With new ones (especially tape materials) more convenient to work. This is undeniable, but the qualities of moss remained unattainable for them. Chief among them is the ability to resist bacteria and high resistance to rotting.

The moss is first dried and then wetted again before use. This restores elasticity to the stems. The soaked moss is laid out in an even layer so that its ends hang down on both sides of the log/beam. After completing the collection of the log house, too long stems of moss are trimmed, everything else is tucked in and tucked into the cracks of the log house - the initial caulking of the log house is performed. This is followed, after six months and after a year and a half, by repeated caulking.

Jute

Increasingly in construction wooden baths and jute is used in houses. And not just jute fibers, but rolled material. Jute fiber has good characteristics: it has good thermal insulation properties, due to the large amount of lignin - a natural resin that serves as a binding element - it is practically not subject to rotting and has low hygroscopicity. Even with high humidity, the jute remains dry to the touch.

Jute insulation can be of several types:

Tow

Tow is waste that is generated during the primary processing of natural fibers. For caulking log houses, tow made from jute, hemp and flax is used. The characteristics of the material and its quality depend on the source raw materials, the degree of purification of the fibers and their length. Construction tow is pressed into square blocks. For use when caulking log houses from common block a strip of material is pulled out, twisted into a rope and placed into the seam. Combed tow, which is sold in rolls, is more convenient to use.

It is inconvenient to work with such material: to achieve a uniform layer when used as interventional insulation difficult, and for caulking a log house, tow is excessively rigid, which makes it almost impossible to achieve a tight filling of the seam the first time, and you have to periodically re-caulk it. If the choice is between moss and jute tow, then we can definitely say that moss is better for a bath - it has the ability to inhibit the development of putrefactive bacteria and fungi.

When to caulk a bathhouse

The log house is assembled, when is the first time you can caulk a fresh log bathhouse? If the log house was assembled with moss or tow, then remnants of material stick out between the crowns different lengths. In this case, you can perform the initial caulking immediately: trim the overly long fibers, tuck them inward and tuck them into the seams. There is no need to be zealous about this. This is preliminary work, the purpose of which is to remove fibers. But this must be done following the rules of caulking. If the log house is assembled on tape insulation, nothing needs to be done.

The first “serious” caulking is carried out approximately six months after the collection of the log house. During this time, the logs/beams will lose most excess moisture, new cracks will appear, the crowns and corners will basically “sit” in place. At this time, the first caulking is carried out. After this process, you can install doors/windows.

A second caulk will be needed about a year after the first. A year and a half has passed since the construction of the log house, the log house has become stable. Now all seams and cracks are checked, all defects are eliminated. Depending on the material and quality of work, it may be necessary, in another five years, to caulk the seams again. But there have been cases (usually this is the result of the work of “shabashniks”) when caulking errors are corrected for several years in a row. Most often, this need arises if the log house was built without inter-crown insulation.

How much tow do you need for a bath?

Any natural material for caulking is compressed many times during installation and a large amount of it can fit into a log house, even with good inter-crown insulation. No one can say exactly how much tow is needed for a bathhouse: it also depends on what material the log house is assembled from and how the grooves are cut out in the logs. At manual chopping grooves usually go away more material. Also, a sanded log requires more material compared to a rounded one. Less is required for a log house, but even here the amount of tow or moss that will be used to seal the cracks depends on the accuracy of the geometry of the beam and the depth/number of cracks that appear during drying.

Caulking rules

Caulking a log house is not a very difficult task, but it is long and tedious. Everything needs to be done thoroughly and slowly, so it takes a lot of time - it took 10 days to caulk a small 5*4 bathhouse (one worked for 7-8 hours).

The main thing is not to overdo it in the efforts made when hammering in the insulation, which can lead to the log house rising by 15 cm or more.

Rules for caulking a log house:

• • You need to start from the bottom crown, moving along the entire perimeter, first from the outside of the building, then caulk the same crown from the inside. And only after that start processing the next crown.
  • When caulking, pay attention Special attention at the corners - this is where the most significant gaps are often found.
  • At primary caulk, first you need to pick up the hanging material, bend it down and tuck it into the gap. The tool should be used as needed. Perform this operation on a section about a meter long, then move on to the next section.
  • In the same area, use caulk and a wooden mallet (sometimes a hammer is used, but the mallet does not knock off your hands so much) to compact the material. You need to hit the caulk until the material begins to spring back. Then move on to the next section.
  • After compaction, a gap formed. A piece of insulation is again placed in it. If it is tow, you need to roll it into a rope required thickness or tear off a piece of the required length from the tape. This piece is also hammered with caulk and a mallet until a springy effect appears. Repeat this operation until the gap is completely filled and move on to the next section.

Like every business, caulking requires certain skills. Since there will be more than one such procedure, you will eventually gain skills. As you gain experience, you will notice the mistakes that you made at the beginning of your activity - this will be your chance to eliminate them. Actually, it is not the gods who burn the pots, but it is possible to caulk a log house more or less efficiently even if you have no experience.

In principle, the answer to this question is obvious. Log caulking needed to eliminate inter-log cracks and gaps by sealing them various kinds insulation.

This process is repeated multiple times:

Directly when laying logs on logs during the construction of a structure, during country house construction with your own hands.

12 months after installation of the log house.

Not less than four years from the previous log caulking.

Due to the fact that log houses tend to shrink (albeit not always significantly) throughout their life, when cracks appear, the log house must be caulked.

2. Methods for caulking a log house.

Also, do not forget that you need to hammer in the insulation carefully, since you can greatly raise the height of the log house. And yet, the walls are caulked on both sides. Or you may get skewed again. If you use moss, it should be moist and not crumble into dust.

Fig.3 Caulk of a log house with tow

In the case of tow and moss:

1. The material is twisted into a bundle.

2. It is pushed as far as possible into the cracks between the logs.

3. Caulking is applied to the resulting tourniquet.

4. And slowly hammer it in with a hammer or mallet.

This is the so-called “stretch” method, which is used for not very large gaps. Otherwise, the tourniquet does not stretch along its entire length, but is formed into loops and then clogged. Here, the same area will require much more insulation. This method is called "set".

Fig.4 Caulk of a log house with jute or flax wool

At log caulking flax or jute:

1. Fixed top part insulation.

2. Tucks up Bottom part top down.

3. Carefully hammered into the cracks.

Fig.5 Caulk of a log house in the corners

Both methods are also used here, depending on the size of the gap.

Fig.6 We caulk the frame with sealant

In case of caulk the log house with a special sealant:

1. First, the sealing cord is pushed in.

2. Use a special gun to squeeze the sealant into the cracks.

4. What to do after caulking the log house.

When the process log caulking finished with your own hands, in any case, you will cover it with some kind of product, of which there are a huge variety now. So, in order to prevent the birds from pulling the insulation out of the cracks, and they really like to use it as building material your nests, we recommend:

Or cover all joints with jute rope, which will give an even more aesthetic appearance to your home.

Or, when painting, additionally go over the seams with a brush several times so that the outer part of the insulation hardens.

In our opinion, the first method is more interesting. Of course, it is more expensive, but it is done only once and again looks very beautiful. The second method is less reliable and will require periodic touch-ups.

In general, as you understand log caulk You can completely do it yourself. Everything is quite simple if you know some of the nuances that we have already talked about. But in general, the process is quite tedious.

Everyone knows that the grooves formed between the logs of a log house should be caulked. The essence of such work is to seal the gaps remaining between the logs and in the corners of the log house using moss, tow or any other sealing material. The instructions on how to properly caulk a log house indicate that the seal should protrude from the grooves by 3-4 mm on both sides of the wall, which will protect future home from blowing and will reduce heat loss during the frosty period by 5-6%.

The process of caulking (caulking) a log house is as follows:

• Evenly distributed fibrous material should be applied across the gap and, using special device(the so-called “caulk”), with strong blows hammer it into the existing grooves. In order for the walls to retain heat better, they need to be caulked both from the inside and from the outside. outside log house
• When organizing these works, it should be taken into account that uneven caulking of the walls can cause distortion of the log house. That is why caulking work is carried out immediately along the entire perimeter of the felled structure; in this case, the crowns are processed sequentially, starting with the lowest one.
• To the caulking internal surfaces walls are transferred immediately after finishing treatment of the external walls.

In construction, two methods of insulating log houses are used, which are called stretch caulking and caulking in a set.

Caulking in a stretch

This method is recommended for caulking existing grooves and cracks in the log house. small size. When sealing a gap, a strand of tow is applied to it and pressed inward using a sealing blade (“caulking”) until the entire space in the groove is filled with material. After that upper layer the tow is carefully compacted using a special type-setting “caulk”. Then a dense roller is twisted from tow, which is placed in the groove between the crowns so that it adheres to the fibers protruding from the groove and is driven in with force.

The roller must be captured by adjacent strands hanging from the grooves, because otherwise, it may simply fall out of the groove.

This method of insulating a log house is usually used when it is necessary to seal large cracks and wide grooves. When selling it, small strands are prepared from hemp or tow, which are then collected into a ball to form (set) a loop, which is driven into the grooves as a seal. It is quite natural that the thickness of the assembled loop depends on the size of the existing groove. The resulting layer of tow is compacted first along the upper cut of the crack, and only then along the lower one. All this work is carried out using a special “road caulk”.

Required Tools

It was previously noted that log houses are caulked using special tools, so-called “caulkers,” made of metal. The main tool for carrying out compaction work is the so-called “caulking machine”, which is a flat spatula with a blade about 100 mm wide and about 5-6 mm thick. In addition to it, the following tool can be used when carrying out work of this class:

• curved “caulk” with a blade width of about 50-60 mm and a working part thickness of about 5 mm (used for caulking the corners of a log house);
• road caulk with a blade up to 170 mm wide and about 8-15 mm thick with a groove along the length of the blade up to 10 mm deep (used to form rollers from twisted strands of tow). There are three types of “road builder”, which are used to work with wide, medium and narrow seams;
• breaking wedge up to 30-35 mm wide; used for breaking (cutting) too narrow grooves, making it easier to stuff tow into them.

The blade of the tool used must be smooth and slightly dull, otherwise it will simply chop the sealing material. To hammer in tow with metal caulking, you can use any hammer of suitable weight.

The following tips will provide you with additional help in deciding the question of “how to caulk a log house correctly”:

• If you use moss as a sealant, you must first moisten it in a special solution prepared from 200 grams of soap and 500 grams of oil dissolved in one bucket of water. Before use, it is advisable to soak the tow in any strong disinfectant, which will protect it from pests.

• If the roller twisted from fibers is not voluminous and dense enough, it is necessary to add strands to it from stocks of insulating material. The spare strand is hooked onto the ends of the tow hanging from the wall and hammered between the logs.
• When driving insulation into the cracks, the crowns can be slightly raised. In this case, the insulation, shaped like a roller, is hammered into the resulting gap using a mallet.

Repeated caulking should be carried out 2 years after the manufacture of the log house, after the latter shrinks and cracks form between the logs again. It is usually performed using the “set” method.

Video

We invite you to watch the process of caulking a log house on video.

There is almost no reduction in the number of people wanting to build own house made of wood. Moreover, wooden buildings have many advantages in comparison with frame, concrete and brick buildings.

But often many people forget that a wooden frame, whether it is built from logs, rounded logs or timber, has such significant drawback or rather a feature like shrinkage and high deformability wooden elements. For this reason, construction wooden house is always more time consuming - first you need to wait for the frame to shrink, and only then can you start finishing work.

But it leads not only to a change in the geometric dimensions of the logs, but also to the appearance of cracks and leaks, which subsequently need to be sealed. Without this, the house will be cold, damp and uncomfortable. To eliminate defects that have arisen, caulking of the walls is carried out.

What is caulking

The process of caulking is to eliminate gaps between the elements of the log house thermal insulation material, which is designed to prevent cold air flows from entering the house.

This one would seem simple work requires patience, accuracy and quite a lot of time from the performer. Caulking technology has remained virtually unchanged over the past centuries, so many developers prefer not to do caulking themselves, but use the labor of professionals.

The caulking process has several purposes:

• correction of defects made during the assembly of the log house;
• by eliminating cold bridges;
• elimination of gaps that inevitably arise in the crowns, corners of the house, between windows and the frame;
• giving the house a finished look.

You should not think that it is enough to caulk the house once and all problems will be solved.

Only at the first stage - during the construction of a house - caulking is carried out twice:

• after the initial shrinkage of the log house (about six months after its assembly);
• before starting finishing work.

In ancient times, the main materials for insulating a log house were moss and wool. They are still used today, but other materials have appeared on the market, varying in price and raw materials. Therefore, anyone, even those limited in funds, will be able to find suitable material to insulate your home.

In order to choose the right material for caulking, you need to know the properties that it should have (or at least most of them).

These are properties such as:

All materials used to insulate a log house are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic.

• tow;
• hemp;
• felt;
• flax wool;
• jute.

• mineral wool;
• foamed polyethylene;
• foam;
• sealants.

Of the artificial insulation materials, only sealants deserve attention.

Other insulation materials should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences:

• good insulation, but she is afraid of moisture and can lead to the development of allergic reactions in some people;
• foamed polyethylene is a closed-cell material that retains heat well, but does not breathe, which can lead to rotting of the log crowns;
• foam rubber and other materials with open pores are not able to protect the seam from freezing, since air and water get into the pores (in addition, foam rubber sags under the weight of logs and decomposes in the light).

Seams can also be sealed using sealants. This process is much simpler and faster than traditional caulk. Some sealants (for example, Neomid) have good adhesion to wood and high elasticity. Sealants are applied using a construction gun. The seams obtained in this way are not afraid of moisture, do not decompose under the influence of UV rays, do not turn yellow or mold.

But no matter how good they are modern sealants, most owners prefer to carry out caulking at home natural materials.

Moss- this is the most ancient and to this day quite effective insulation for a log house.

It has such necessary properties as:

• excellent hygroscopicity (capable of absorbing moisture in a volume 20 times its own);
• the presence of lignin in the structure of the fibers, which resists deterioration of both the moss itself and the logs;
• bactericidal properties - moss is able to destroy microorganisms.

Before caulking, dry moss is moistened in a solution prepared from 200 g of soap and 500 g of oil, dissolved in a bucket of water. Of all the types of moss, only two types are used as caulk: forest moss (cuckoo flax) and red swamp moss.

The moss is not laid after the frame is assembled, but during it. To do this, the moistened material is distributed in a layer of at least 10 cm along the crowns with the stems across. The ends of the stems, 10–15 cm long, are released outside for subsequent caulking. The disadvantage of this method is the high labor intensity of preparing moss (it must be cleaned of soil residues and dried) and quite difficult process caulking.

Tow It can be used, but it is not advisable.

There are several reasons:

• it is difficult to twist tow so that it does not fall apart;
• it absorbs water vapor well, so it is almost always wet and deteriorates;
• in the heat, the material crumbles into dust;
• Birds love tow and use it to build nests.

Thus, the log house will have to be caulked too often. The tow is first treated with a formaldehyde solution and then dried. This protects it from pests. Working with tow is not very convenient, because it is too hard and it is very difficult to achieve a dense filling of the seam.

Hemp– made from hemp stem fibers, which are highly durable and resistant to various influences.

– non-woven material, made from felted wool. For caulking, it is cut into strips. Needs to pre-treatment protective compounds, because it is easily damaged by moths and other pests. Currently, you can purchase impregnated felt that has already been treated with bitumen or resin.

Linen– it is advisable to use dry wood or wood to insulate the house. The material does not have high density and is afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, which can cause rotting processes in it. The shade of flax caulk is usually gray.

Lnovatin– made from flax and jute, which together form good insulation. The material is resistant to external influences, has good density and the ability to restore its size. After the wood dries, leading to the formation of cracks, the material reliably fills all the resulting voids.

Jute- its properties resemble moss, but it is much easier to work with. The material has sufficient density to keep the cold out and keep the heat out of the house. Jute is a breathable, hygroscopic material. In addition to all these positive properties, jute has a beautiful golden hue, which greatly decorates the house.

Insulation technology for log walls

From ancient times to this day, two main technologies have been used to insulate wooden walls.

Stretching - used mainly for caulking narrow cracks:

• a strand is formed from the selected insulation, placed in the slot and pushed through with a spatula, leaving an edge of the material about 5 cm long outside;
• then a thin roll is rolled out of the insulation, which is wrapped into the left free edge of the insulation and carefully, using a chisel, hammered into the groove.

Included in the set – used for caulking large grooves and cracks between logs:

• the sealant is twisted into long strands up to 15 mm thick and wound into balls;
• then it is carefully unwound, while simultaneously hammering the material into the cracks using a caulking chisel;
• if there are gaps different sizes, then for larger ones the required thickness of the insulation is gained by twisting it into loops.

• caulks (they are different: type-setting, curved, broken);
• wooden mallet or rubber mallet with a wide head.

Caulking tools have a steel blade that must be soft and smooth, otherwise it may damage the seal.

Work order:

• The caulking process itself begins from the bottom, from the very bottom crown and continues upward. It must be taken into account that caulking the seams changes the height of the log house.
• One seam must be caulked along the entire perimeter of the log house, first from the outside, then from the inside. This will avoid distortions in the walls of the house.
• Then the next highest seam is processed. And so on until the very top.

Caulk separate walls This is not possible, this may cause the wall to deviate from the vertical.

As you can see, the process of caulking a log house is not that complicated, but it requires great care and careful execution of all operations. Then your home is on long years will be protected from atmospheric influences, and the facades of the house will take on a finished look.

After installing the log house, there is still a lot of work to be done, including caulking the bathhouse. This must be done to close the gaps between the timber or logs and to insulate the walls. Without proper caulking, the bathhouse will be ventilated, and the heat will quickly leave the room. In addition, logs or beams will soon become unusable, crack and become damp.

You can easily caulk a bathhouse with your own hands, since this process not very complicated. But it is important to choose the right materials and carefully follow the technology. Let's find out how to properly and what is the best way to caulk a bathhouse made of logs or timber.

Features of bath caulk

It is important to perform this procedure correctly, otherwise installation errors will cause the walls to warp or cause serious cracks and cracks. This simple process, but quite long and monotonous. Therefore, you need to be patient! Caulking is done six months after the installation of the log house, when most of the shrinkage of the tree has passed. After this caulking, you can already install windows and doors.

If a second caulk is needed, the procedure is performed a year after the first (1.5 years after installation of the log house). Depending on the quality of work and material, another caulk may be required after 4-5 years. In any case, this procedure is very important for wooden buildings.

Bath caulk performs the following useful functions:

• Reliably closes cracks and gaps in wooden walls between crowns and ceilings, logs and crowns, in window and door frames;
• Eliminates cracks in wooden log house, which are formed during the shrinkage process. Caulking prevents the growth and appearance of new cracks;
• Enhances the thermal insulation qualities of wood and retains heat indoors for a long time, which is especially important for a bathhouse;
• Protects the room from wind penetration, internal wooden walls- from negative impact moisture;
• Seals cracks in an already built house or bathhouse.

Among the materials for caulking, there are natural and synthetic types. Natural jute, tow and moss - traditional means which have been used for a long time. From modern artificial materials use industrial sealants. Each product has its pros and cons, and which one to choose is up to each owner to decide. Also among the tools for caulking you will need a hammer, a 20 mm chisel and a rubber mallet.

Natural materials for caulking

The oldest and most proven method is to caulk a bathhouse or house with moss. It is eco-friendly and safe material, which will save natural properties and aesthetics wooden structure. It effectively resists negative impact bacteria and prevents the formation of fungus or mold, quickly absorbs moisture and does not rot. However, it is not very convenient to use. Moss is optimal for baths and sealing cracks in a wooden house.

Processing with jute is also good for baths, as this environmentally friendly material saves natural properties and tree safety. This fiber is distinguished by high strength, thermal insulation, resistance to moisture and decay. Roll material with an even structure it is easy to lay between the crowns. However, jute often becomes a breeding ground for moths, so it is recommended to treat the material with a moth repellent before use.

Tow represents waste after the primary processing of natural fibers of jute, flax or hemp. This is a very difficult and inconvenient material to work with. In addition, when a log house shrinks, it gains moisture, rots and turns into dust.

As a result, this rot has to be cleaned out and the bathhouse frame caulked again. Among the advantages of tow, we note the environmental friendliness and safety of the fiber, high antibacterial and thermal insulation properties. However, due to its complexity and fragility, tow is not recommended for caulking baths or at home.

Sealants

Modern sealants have long been filled construction market. These are quick, convenient and easy to use products that are well suited for independent work. However, in this case, it is important to choose high-quality sealants from a reliable manufacturer, since some do not tolerate exposure to sunlight and wind.

As a result they lose beneficial features and are blown out. Additionally, some types of sealants can damage the wood fibers when they dry. To avoid this, use elastic products (acrylic) that contract or expand with the wood.

At the same time, sealants have big amount advantages, including not only easy and quick installation. Such products are characterized by high thermal insulation qualities, resistance to moisture, cold and temperature changes. In particular demand today warm seam using acrylic sealants. This product contains rubber, which gives elasticity and prevents small hidden cracks from cracking further.

Acrylic sealants are safe and environmentally friendly, making them ideal for processing wooden bath or at home. They do not emit toxic substances and allow the wood to “breathe”. These products can withstand high temperatures, do not have unpleasant smell, are distinguished by quick and easy finishing. They do not allow wood to rot and have a wide selection color range. Read more about acrylic sealants and “warm seam” technology read.

Features of caulking using different materials

If you are using moss, the material must first be completely dried and re-moistened before use. To do this, soak the material for 30-60 minutes and squeeze thoroughly. The soaked moss is laid out between the crowns in an even layer so that the ends of the material stick out on both sides of the log or timber. After this, the too protruding and long parts of the material are trimmed and tucked into the cracks of the log house. After a year, re-caulking must be done.

When using tow, it is better to choose rolled tow, as it is easier to use. If you choose tow in blocks, a strip of material is pulled out of the block and a rope is twisted, which is then placed into the seam. Take jute with a fiber length of more than two centimeters. Short fibers fall out easily and are blown out.

Caulking with natural materials is carried out using two methods. The “stretching” method assumes that the material is divided into separate strips and placed in the gaps between the rims. The insulation remaining outside is rolled into a roller and driven into the groove. The “set” method means that the fibers are separated into strands and wound into a ball, and then pushed into the spaces between the logs or beams.

When choosing a sealant, first lay a heat-insulating cord made of polyethylene or jute fiber in the cracks. This will reduce the consumption of the main product and increase the thermal insulation properties of wood. And then sealant is applied over the cord in a wet state with a layer thickness of 4-6 mm.

Then the layer is leveled with a spatula or spatula, and the remains are cleaned with a rag. The sealant is left to dry for two days, while it is important to protect the seam from moisture. Detailed instructions Directions for use can be found on the packaging of each product.

Bath caulking technology

• Before starting work, logs or beams are cleaned of dust and dirt. Can be closed wooden surface construction tape or masking tape so that the insulation does not get on the walls of the log house;
• Start with the bottom crown and move around the perimeter of the bathhouse, first from the outside, then work the bottom crown around the perimeter inside. Only then move on to the next crown! Each crown should be caulked in turn, without skipping rows;
• Pay special attention to the corners of the bathhouse, as in these places there is a large number of cracks and large gaps;
• During the process, carefully monitor the evenness of the walls of the log house and check how the insulation fits. The material should lie tightly, evenly and not form bubbles;
• Do not use under any circumstances polyurethane foam for caulking a wooden bathhouse or home! It violates the naturalness and environmental friendliness of materials, reduces the service life of insulation;
• After completing the work, check the quality of the work. To do this, try removing the material or piercing it with a sharp object. If you can remove an entire strip or pass a sharp tool through the insulation, the work was not done well.

When laying insulation, it is very important to follow the technology, otherwise incorrect actions will not allow you to get maximum efficiency from caulking. The room will be ventilated, and the caulking itself will have to be done again every two to three years. In addition, mistakes can lead to skewed walls, rotting of logs or beams, and lumber falling out of locks!

To avoid possible problems and get quality work, turn to professionals. The masters of the MariSrub company will reliably and quickly carry out caulking and insulation of the log house of a bathhouse or house. We provide a full range of services for the construction and finishing of wooden buildings.

The scope of work includes the production of lumber and the creation of a project, installation of a log house, installation of the roof and foundation, installation and connection utility networks, finishing. We provide high-quality insulation and caulking of log houses, and seal seams!