Putting a log house from a log or timber is far from the whole task. It is also necessary to properly caulk this log house: close up the gaps between the crowns and the cracks that form during the drying of the wood. This is done so that the log cabin of the bath loses as little heat as possible. The quality of the assembly of the log house is determined by how the crowns were laid. It is important not only to correctly cut out bowls and grooves - between two rows of logs or beams, it is imperative to lay interventional insulation.
Insulation is laid at the stage of log assembly
What it will be - moss, tow or jute - is up to you, but such a layer must be present. When folding a log house from logs, it is necessary to lay the insulation in two layers:
Please note that when using moss or tow, you do not need to “tap” the material. When tapped with a hammer or an ax butt, the moss fibers break, and dents form on the wood, which are directed across the fibers. Such damage can lead, in the future, to the development of foci of decay. It is enough just to compact the fibers with the palm of your hand, leveling and probing the layer, if large foreign objects come across (cones or sticks are often found in moss) - just remove them.
When using tape insulation, you can fix it with a construction stapler - damage to wood from staples is minimal, and the material is held securely. It is advisable to lay the “insulated” crowns together, so that the ball can take the log from both ends and lower it overthrow so as not to move the insulation.
All materials for caulking can be divided into two main categories: natural (tow, hemp, moss, jute, etc.) and industrial sealants. Sealants apply faster and are easier to work with. Usually, to reduce the consumption of sealant, a cord is placed in the gap between the crowns, and only then, a sealant is applied over it, which, when wet, is leveled with a special spatula.
Synthetic sealants have a number of disadvantages:
Elastic joint sealant for wood from EUROTEX
The video shows how to use Eurotex sealant.
As shown in the video above, a regular tablespoon can be used as a tool for leveling and removing excess sealant.
If you decide to use one of the sealants, carefully read the instructions and description, make sure that it is compatible with the type of wood from which the log house was built, can be used in your region (temperature regime) and has the necessary qualities.
The use of sealant is justified in the case when it is used to seal caulked cracks: after double caulking the log house with tow, moss or jute, the log house shrinks completely and acquires operational dimensions, after which a cord is laid in the seams, and then sealant is applied.
Natural materials for caulking also have their advantages and disadvantages, in addition, each of them needs a certain preparation.
The most proven material for bath caulking is moss. It has been used for over a century. Today, many other materials have appeared, but they have not surpassed moss in performance. New (especially tape materials) are more convenient to work with. This is indisputable, but the qualities of moss remained unattainable for them. Chief among them is the ability to resist bacteria and high resistance to decay.
Not aesthetic but practical
Moss is first dried, then moistened again before use. This restores elasticity to the stems. The soaked moss is laid out in an even layer so that its ends hang down on both sides of the log / beam. After the completion of the collection of the log house, too long stems of moss are cut, everything else is tucked up and tucked into the slots of the log house - the primary caulking of the log house is made. Behind her, after six months and after a year and a half, there are repeated caulks.
Increasingly, jute is used in the construction of wooden baths and houses. And not just jute fibers, but rolled material. Jute fiber has good characteristics: it has good thermal insulation properties, due to the large amount of lignin - a natural resin that serves as a binder - it is practically not subject to decay and has low hygroscopicity. Even in high humidity, jute remains dry to the touch.
Jute insulation can be of several types:
Tow - waste that is generated during the primary processing of natural fibers. Tow is used for caulking log cabins from jute, hemp and flax. The characteristics of the material and its quality depend on the feedstock, the degree of purification of the fibers and their length. Construction tow is pressed into square blocks. For use when caulking a log house, a strip of material is pulled out from a common block, twisted into a bundle and placed in a seam. Combed tow, which is sold in rolls, is more convenient to use.
It is inconvenient to work with such material: it is difficult to achieve a uniform layer when used as an interventional insulation, and for caulking, the tow log house has excessive rigidity, which is why it is almost impossible to achieve a tight filling of the seam the first time and it is necessary to periodically carry out repeated caulking. If the choice is between moss and jute tow, then we can definitely say that moss is better for a bath - it has the ability to inhibit the development of putrefactive bacteria and fungi.
The log house has been assembled, when is the first time you can caulk a fresh log cabin of the bath? If the frame was assembled on moss or tow, then between the crowns stick out the remains of material of different lengths. In this case, it is possible to produce primary caulking immediately: cut too long fibers, tuck them in and fill them into the seams. There is no need to be zealous about it. These are preliminary works, the purpose of which is to remove the fibers. But you need to do this following the rules of caulking. If the log house is assembled on tape insulation, nothing needs to be done.
The first "serious" caulk is carried out approximately six months after the collection of the log house. During this time, logs / beams will lose most of the excess moisture, new cracks will appear, crowns and corners will basically “sit down” in place. At this time, the first caulk is carried out. After this process, doors / windows can be installed.
The second caulk will be needed about a year after the first. A year and a half has passed since the construction of the log house, the log house has settled down. Now all seams and cracks are checked, all shortcomings are eliminated. Depending on the material and quality of work, it may be necessary, after another five years, to caulk the seams again. But there have been cases (usually this is the result of the work of "shabashnikov") when the correction of caulking errors is carried out for several years in a row. Most often, such a need arises if the log house was folded without interventional insulation.
Any natural material for caulking is compressed many times during laying and a large amount of it can fit into a log house, even with good interventional insulation. No one can say exactly how much tow is needed for a bath: it also depends on what material the log house is made of and how the grooves in the logs are cut. When manually cutting grooves, as a rule, more material is used. Also, a sanded log requires more material than a round log. Less is required for a log cabin, but even here the amount of tow or moss that will be used to seal the cracks depends on the accuracy of the beam geometry and the depth / number of cracks that appeared during shrinkage.
Caulking a log house is not a very difficult task, but a long and dreary one. Everything needs to be done thoroughly and slowly, so it takes a lot of time - it took 10 days to caulk a small 5 * 4 bath (one worked for 7-8 hours).
The main thing is not to overdo it in the efforts applied when clogging the insulation, which can lead to the fact that the log house will rise by 15 cm or more.
Rules for caulking a log house:
Like every business, caulking requires certain skills. Since there is more than one such procedure, as a result you will have skills. As you gain experience, you will notice the flaws that you made at the beginning of your activity - here will be a chance to eliminate them. Actually, it is not the gods who burn the pots, but it is possible to caulk a log cabin more or less qualitatively even in the absence of experience.
The caulking of any wooden bath must be carried out in two stages: after the completion of construction and after a year of shrinkage. For work, the same insulation is used, which is laid between the links during construction. Traditionally, baths are used for caulking: moss, felt, tow, hemp. Readers will learn how to properly caulk a bath with their own hands, what tools are needed and the intricacies of the work, having studied the article to the end.
When assembling the bath box, a heater is laid between each log or beam. But wood shrinks regardless of chamber drying material or natural humidity. When shrinking, space appears between the logs, so it is necessary to caulk the bath for the first time to seal the seam and the second to eliminate the gaps that have formed.
It is easier to caulk a log cabin with the help of special tools: a caulk and a rubber mallet or mallet. If there is no caulk, then you can use a regular chisel.
For caulking a log cabin, a steam room uses natural heaters: moss, hemp, tow, felt. All materials are available, but each must be prepared in its own way.
Seam insulation with moss is a traditional method used by our grandfathers. Moss can be collected independently or purchased ready-made at a hardware store.
The price of moss is from 250 rubles, so it's cheaper to collect in the forest. The collected moss is laid out under a canopy and left to dry for 1-2 weeks. It is necessary to mix the moss every 2-3 days so that it does not rot. Using damp moss will cause mold and wood decay. But it is necessary to monitor drying, as overdried moss will be fragile and difficult to work with.
Moss Pros:
The material has more disadvantages:
Choosing moss to caulk a log house is necessary only as a savings. From the point of view of practicality and durability, it is better to pay attention to something else.
Felt is a natural material based on wool. But modern felt may be composed of smoked fibers. Moreover, the composition is: 60% wool and 40% artificial fiber, 70% artificial fiber and 30% wool. For a bath, they choose completely natural or with a high content of wool felt. The fact is that natural material does not burn, but simply smolders. Artificial felt is flammable.
Before work, the felt must be treated with a formalin solution, it will not allow moths to get divorced in the wool. After spraying, the felt is hung out in the sun and dried thoroughly.
The main advantages of felt include:
Tow does not need to be specially prepared before work. But moths and other insects like to settle in natural material, so the tow is impregnated with any protective compound, for example, formalin.
The main advantages of using tow:
Tow is an alternative to moss, since the price of the material starts from 70 rubles.
Modern insulation options: jute and flax fiber can also be used to caulk a log house. But despite the manufacturer's assurances about the naturalness of heaters, most of them contain artificial additives. They make jute and flax fiber durable, but environmental friendliness is reduced.
Natural jute is made from bast wood of the linden family. Jute has high strength, durability and resistance to moisture. Water, falling on the material, does not linger on the jute fibers, but quickly disappears.
Flax fiber is made from flax waste. The material performed well on construction sites. Does not rot and does not absorb moisture. But there are pitfalls, sellers offer the buyer flax wool instead of flax fiber. The materials are similar in composition, but batting has 40% artificial fiber. You can distinguish one from the other by color, lnovatin is light, and the fibers of natural insulation are darker.
Produced in the form of tape, cord. To caulk the log cabin of the bath, tape jute or flax fiber is used.
It is necessary to caulk the log cabin of your bath with a heater that meets your requirements and capabilities.
Caulking a bath is necessary in two stages:
It is difficult to re-caulk a log house from a profiled beam, since the lock will not allow the work to be carried out efficiently. Therefore, it is better to take a material with a profile chamber-drying or glued. So, shrinkage will be minimal and you won’t have to caulk again. All other types: a log, a simple bar, cylindering must be re-caulked. You need to work with special tools, as shown in the video:
To caulk a log house, various types of caulking are used:
A mallet (mushkel) is also needed. The tool is used to strike the caulk during work. The mallet can be replaced with an ordinary rubber mallet. We need a road builder, the tool helps to align the seam after punching with caulks.
You need to caulk the walls of the bath from the bottom up around the entire perimeter. Moreover, the work is first done by caulking one row from the inside and outside, then the second, etc. The fact is that when caulking, the bath rises by 5–15 cm. If you do not work consistently, then the structure will warp. By caulking the bottom groove along the entire perimeter, outside and inside, then the second, the bath structure will rise smoothly and evenly.
It is necessary to take care of the chimney before caulking the log house. The pipe is released at the junction with the ceiling and roof or removed for a while so as not to be damaged.
There are two ways to caulk a bath:
Let's consider each in more detail.
Caulking into the set is necessary when sealing large gaps and grooves. The selected material is twisted into a bundle of 15–20 mm and, for convenience, wound into a small ball. The tourniquet is substituted for the gap and hammered with a caulk and a mallet, as in the photo.
First from above, then from below. Align everything with the help of a road builder.
The insulation does not need to be twisted into a bundle. It is simply stuffed into the gap between the links, and then pierced with a mallet. Perform work until the insulation stops interfering between the logs of the log cabin of the bath.
It is necessary to caulk the log house slowly, carefully closing up every crack. Places where it is difficult to hit with a tool are simply foamed with mounting foam.
We answered the question of how to properly caulk a bath using various methods. After the log cabin of the bath has finished caulking, it must be sanded and coated with protective compounds. We'll talk about this next time.
For timber and log buildings, there is a traditional and effective method to keep the accumulated internal heat. It is the insulation of corners and interventional seams of a log house with heat-insulating materials. This process is called caulking or caulking.
It is difficult to overestimate the importance of such an operation, so it is important to know how to caulk a log house.
To insulate a log house, it is necessary to carry out the caulking procedure at least twice. The first time this is done immediately after its assembly, the second - after the initial shrinkage of the log building occurs, after about one year.
After a few years, a third caulk is sometimes made in order to make the thermal insulation more effective, because during this time the building will sit down completely.
For better insulation, the operation must be carried out not only from the outside, but also from the inside of the building. Remember that during the work the log house rises by about 5-7 cm. As a result, it is necessary to caulk a house or a bath before finishing the premises.
It is worth noting that a qualified craftsman can correct the resulting skew of the log house with only one caulk.
It is desirable to carry out work along the perimeter of a log building, starting the process from the lower crowns and moving to the top. If you work in a different sequence, for example, separately insulate each of the walls, then the log house may be skewed.
And now about how to properly caulk a log house. There are two types of this operation:
When caulking "in a stretch" a strand is formed from the heat-insulating material. It is applied across the fibers to the joint and pushed deep into it either by hand or with a special spatula, which is called caulking.
This must be done in such a way that 5-6 cm of the material remains free. Then a roller is made from the tow, it is wrapped in the free edge of the heat-insulating material, applied to the seam and tightly clogged with caulking.
With the “set-up” method, long strands are twisted from the tow. They are wound into a ball, loops are further drawn from it, which are pushed into the interventional joints.
Using a spatula, first hammer in the insulation at the top of the seam, and then at the bottom. The number of loops that are driven in depends on the size of the joints to be filled. In order for the seam to be even and look neat, then you can seal it with a special tool - a road builder.
Advice from the master!
Particular attention must be paid to the corners of the frame. It is very inconvenient to work on them. As a result, it is so important to concentrate and carefully process these places.
The caulking of any wooden bath must be carried out in two stages: after the completion of construction and after a year of shrinkage. For work, the same insulation is used, which is laid between the links during construction. Traditionally, baths are used for caulking: moss, felt, tow, hemp. Readers will learn how to properly caulk a bath with their own hands, what tools are needed and the intricacies of the work, having studied the article to the end.
In any case, you will have to caulk the bath. The main thing is to do the job carefully.
When assembling the bath box, a heater is laid between each log or beam. But wood shrinks regardless of chamber drying material or natural humidity. When shrinking, space appears between the logs, so it is necessary to caulk the bath for the first time to seal the seam and the second to eliminate the gaps that have formed.
It is easier to caulk a log cabin with the help of special tools: a caulk and a rubber mallet or mallet. If there is no caulk, then you can use a regular chisel.
For caulking a log cabin, a steam room uses natural heaters: moss, hemp, tow, felt. All materials are available, but each must be prepared in its own way.
Seam insulation with moss is a traditional method used by our grandfathers. Moss can be collected independently or purchased ready-made at a hardware store.
The price of moss is from 250 rubles, so it's cheaper to collect in the forest. The collected moss is laid out under a canopy and left to dry for 1-2 weeks. It is necessary to mix the moss every 2-3 days so that it does not rot. Using damp moss will cause mold and wood decay. But it is necessary to monitor drying, as overdried moss will be fragile and difficult to work with.
Moss Pros:
The material has more disadvantages:
Choosing moss to caulk a log house is necessary only as a savings. From the point of view of practicality and durability, it is better to pay attention to something else.
Felt is a natural material based on wool. But modern felt may be composed of smoked fibers. Moreover, the composition is: 60% wool and 40% artificial fiber, 70% artificial fiber and 30% wool. For a bath, they choose completely natural or with a high content of wool felt. The fact is that natural material does not burn, but simply smolders. Artificial felt is flammable.
Before work, the felt must be treated with a formalin solution, it will not allow moths to get divorced in the wool. After spraying, the felt is hung out in the sun and dried thoroughly.
The main advantages of felt include:
Tow does not need to be specially prepared before work. But moths and other insects like to settle in natural material, so the tow is impregnated with any protective compound, for example, formalin.
The main advantages of using tow:
Tow is an alternative to moss, since the price of the material starts from 70 rubles.
Modern insulation options: jute and flax fiber can also be used to caulk a log house. But despite the manufacturer's assurances about the naturalness of heaters, most of them contain artificial additives. They make jute and flax fiber durable, but environmental friendliness is reduced.
Natural jute is made from bast wood of the linden family. Jute has high strength, durability and resistance to moisture. Water, falling on the material, does not linger on the jute fibers, but quickly disappears.
Flax fiber is made from flax waste. The material performed well on construction sites. Does not rot and does not absorb moisture. But there are pitfalls, sellers offer the buyer flax wool instead of flax fiber. The materials are similar in composition, but batting has 40% artificial fiber. You can distinguish one from the other by color, lnovatin is light, and the fibers of natural insulation are darker.
Produced in the form of tape, cord. To caulk the log cabin of the bath, tape jute or flax fiber is used.
It is necessary to caulk the log cabin of your bath with a heater that meets your requirements and capabilities.
Caulking a bath is necessary in two stages:
It is difficult to re-caulk a log house from a profiled beam, since the lock will not allow the work to be carried out efficiently. Therefore, it is better to take a material with a profile chamber-drying or glued. So, shrinkage will be minimal and you won’t have to caulk again. All other types: a log, a simple bar, cylindering must be re-caulked. You need to work with special tools, as shown in the video:
To caulk a log house, various types of caulking are used:
A mallet (mushkel) is also needed. The tool is used to strike the caulk during work. The mallet can be replaced with an ordinary rubber mallet. We need a road builder, the tool helps to align the seam after punching with caulks.
You need to caulk the walls of the bath from the bottom up around the entire perimeter. Moreover, the work is first done by caulking one row from the inside and outside, then the second, etc. The fact is that when caulking, the bath rises by 5–15 cm. If you do not work consistently, then the structure will warp. By caulking the bottom groove along the entire perimeter, outside and inside, then the second, the bath structure will rise smoothly and evenly.
It is necessary to take care of the chimney before caulking the log house. The pipe is released at the junction with the ceiling and roof or removed for a while so as not to be damaged.
There are two ways to caulk a bath:
Let's consider each in more detail.
Caulking into the set is necessary when sealing large gaps and grooves. The selected material is twisted into a bundle of 15–20 mm and, for convenience, wound into a small ball. The tourniquet is substituted for the gap and hammered with a caulk and a mallet, as in the photo.
First from above, then from below. Align everything with the help of a road builder.
The insulation does not need to be twisted into a bundle. It is simply stuffed into the gap between the links, and then pierced with a mallet. Perform work until the insulation stops interfering between the logs of the log cabin of the bath.
It is necessary to caulk the log house slowly, carefully closing up every crack. Places where it is difficult to hit with a tool are simply foamed with mounting foam.
We answered the question of how to properly caulk a bath using various methods. After the log cabin of the bath has finished caulking, it must be sanded and coated with protective compounds. We'll talk about this next time.
Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can correctly caulk a log house, so you first need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study the methods of caulking, and correctly select interventional insulation.
The caulking of the log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after the erection and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with the laying of insulation during the assembly of walls or a one-time performance of work on completion of construction.
Perform the laying of the lower row of logs on the base.
Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, a second crown is laid, and again a layer of insulation. So repeat to the very top of the log house. After all the work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the sealant are hammered into the gaps between the bars with the help of caulks.
Caulking begins after the installation of the roofing system on the frame. Insulation (best of all, tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is stuffed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are tucked in, a roller is formed from them and hammered into the seam. Repeat the procedure in the next row and so on to the top of the structure.
The second stage of caulking is performed after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and tightly hammered inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it around the perimeter of the log house.
You cannot first caulk one wall, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from the inside to avoid distortions of the structure. The insulation raises the log house by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after the construction. During this time, the wood shrinks completely, and new gaps form.
There are two ways of caulking - "in a set" and "in a stretch". The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used for primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.
To work, you need tools - a set of caulks, a road builder and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make their own from hardwood.
Name | Description | What is it used for |
---|---|---|
Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm | The main tool for sealing gaps between crowns | |
Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm | It is used for sealing joints in corners and rounded sections of the log house | |
Caulking triangular shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm | Tool for forming even rolls from twisted strands of sealant | |
Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide | Expands narrow gaps, which provides more convenient filling with insulation | |
wooden hammer | Used for stuffing the sealant with wooden caulks |
Caulker blades should not be sharp, otherwise, when clogging the material, they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and pull back out of the seams.
The following materials are used as interventional heaters:
Material type | Description |
---|---|
Environmentally friendly material with antiseptic properties. With independent procurement of raw materials, the cost of warming the log house will be minimal. It is collected, as a rule, in late autumn, when there are no snails and fewer insects in it. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted out, clods of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. It is not necessary to dry strongly, otherwise the stems become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to facilitate styling. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: Difficult to find commercially, requires bird protection, requires pre-treatment before laying |
|
The tow is suitable for the primary caulking of the log house and for sealing the crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality is divided into bale and roll (tape). The roll consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to drive between the rims. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Cons: the complexity of laying, unaesthetic appearance of the seams after caulking. |
|
Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log cabins. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and vegetable fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not let in odors, provides good sound insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and environmentally friendly. Cons: prone to rotting, easily damaged by moths |
|
Traditional heaters are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is produced in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, as well as in the form of a tape. Ribbon jute is soft and pliable, evenly compacted, used for both primary and re-caulking. Jute fibers and ropes are more convenient to use after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, it is not damaged by moths and other insects, it does not rot, it provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material quickly caking, short service life. |
The whole process is divided into two stages - the laying of insulation between the logs during the construction of the log house and the caulk itself. The insulation is laid after the installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.
They take a large bunch of moss and lay it with fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close next to each other.
The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of the same thickness. Wood should not shine through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It is better to put in excess than not to report, because a thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.
If tape insulation is used, the installation is much easier and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and fixed with staples of a construction stapler. When the tape ends, the new segment is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row along the perimeter is covered with insulation, the installation of the second crown is performed.
So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, the walls can be caulked.
The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of the log house
It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then it is much faster to form a roller out of it. When twisting the material, it must be slightly stretched along the seam, which contributes to greater compaction and uniform distribution of the insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not enough to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After that, the thickened roller is hammered into the gap.
If during the construction process the insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It must be applied to the seams with fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the desired density, the material will not be able to firmly fix itself and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Too short edges are difficult to tuck, respectively, the quality of caulking will be low.
We insert the insulation into the seam
caulk
If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking "in a set" is used. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow, which are wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.
Start from the edge of the lower crown:
Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The denser the voids are clogged, the better the insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil the appearance of the wall, and secondly, birds can pull the sealant apart. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in the same way.
For a decorative log house, a jute cord can be hammered along the entire length of the seams.
The corners are caulked separately after the walls are completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.
Since the seams between the logs have a semicircular shape at the corners, you will need a crooked caulk.
Step 1. The tape is placed vertically. They take it by the edge, apply it to the fillet seam and press it inward with a caulk. They step back a little and again drive the material into the gap.
Step 2 As soon as the insulation is a little fixed, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and hammer them deeper into the cracks.
Step 3 After filling and leveling the upper seam, they move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened, and slightly stretched so that it lies more evenly.
This is how the entire corner is consistently compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the look will be sloppy.
The caulking of the log house with special sealants is gaining popularity, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing. If the log house is made of rounded logs or glued beams, and jute is laid as a heater between the crowns, only sealant and foam polyethylene tow can be used. The sealing of the seams is carried out not earlier than the shrinkage of the log house.
Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris, wiped dry with a rag.
Step 2 A primer-primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams with a brush or sprayer. If the work is carried out in winter, the primer must be chosen on a rubber basis, in the summer - on a water basis.
Step 3. After the primer has dried, a tourniquet of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.
Step 4 Apply sealant. The composition is used in tubes, which is applied with a mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. The latter option is very easy to use: on one side of the tape, remove the protective film, apply it to the seam, press it with your hand and roll it with a roller.
Step 5 After sealing all interventional joints, remove the outer layer of the film so that the sealant hardens. At the end, the joints are covered with a colorless varnish or a tinting composition is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.
When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed out and the excess removed with a damp cloth.
If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed in the traditional way, after which the seams are closed with a sealant. After such processing, the need for subsequent caulking disappears.
High-quality caulking is one of the most important guarantees of its reliable thermal insulation. It is highly not recommended to neglect this process, because the comfort and healthy microclimate of the steam room is at stake. But how to properly caulk a log house in order to avoid even the likelihood of voids that can nullify all the thermal properties of the structure? Let's take a closer look at this later: we will find out the features of materials for protecting the bath - jute, tow and moss, get acquainted with the rules and technologies of caulking, and also watch a video of direct work with a log house.
Moss, tow and jute are considered traditional materials for caulking a bath from a bar. Let's outline the main features of each of them.
Advice. It is not necessary to completely dry the moss, otherwise it will become brittle and completely unsuitable for caulking.
Materials for caulking
The main features of a caulking bath from a bar:
Advice. If you carry out caulking after the completion of the construction of the bath, do it before the external finishing of the object, as the sealing material will raise the frame by 5-7 cm.
Caulking process
There are two ways of caulking a log house - "stretched" and "set".
The "stretching" technology is appropriate if the voids between the timber are very narrow - almost imperceptible. The laying of the material is carried out as follows:
If the voids between the rows of timber are deep and wide, it is advisable to use the "in-set" caulking technology:
Advice. Where there are gaps of different sizes, gain the thickness of the filler by turning the strands or simply twisting them into loops. At the same time, first close the upper part of the voids, and then the lower one.
As you can see, caulking a bath is a painstaking process, the success of which depends on several factors at once: the quality of the material, the technology of its installation and the sequence of work. To cope with the task and provide good thermal insulation for the steam room, carefully consider each of the indicated nuances and stock up on endurance, because caulking is not in a hurry.
Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can correctly caulk a log house, so you first need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study the methods of caulking, and correctly select interventional insulation.
The caulking of the log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after the erection and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with the laying of insulation during the assembly of walls or a one-time performance of work on completion of construction.
Perform the laying of the lower row of logs on the base.
Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, a second crown is laid, and again a layer of insulation. So repeat to the very top of the log house. After all the work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the sealant are hammered into the gaps between the bars with the help of caulks.
Caulking begins after the installation of the roofing system on the frame. Insulation (best of all, tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is stuffed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are tucked in, a roller is formed from them and hammered into the seam. Repeat the procedure in the next row and so on to the top of the structure.
The second stage of caulking is performed after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and tightly hammered inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it around the perimeter of the log house.
You cannot first caulk one wall, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from the inside to avoid distortions of the structure. The insulation raises the log house by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after the construction. During this time, the wood shrinks completely, and new gaps form.
There are two ways of caulking - "in a set" and "in a stretch". The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used for primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.
To work, you need tools - a set of caulks, a road builder and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make their own from hardwood.
Name Description What it is used for
Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm | The main tool for sealing gaps between crowns | |
Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm | It is used for sealing joints in corners and rounded sections of the log house | |
Caulking triangular shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm | Tool for forming even rolls from twisted strands of sealant | |
Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide | Expands narrow gaps, which provides more convenient filling with insulation | |
wooden hammer | Used for stuffing the sealant with wooden caulks |
Caulker blades should not be sharp, otherwise, when clogging the material, they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and pull back out of the seams.
The following materials are used as interventional heaters:
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Environmentally friendly material with antiseptic properties. With independent procurement of raw materials, the cost of warming the log house will be minimal. It is collected, as a rule, in late autumn, when there are no snails and fewer insects in it. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted out, clods of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. It is not necessary to dry strongly, otherwise the stems become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to facilitate styling. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: Difficult to find commercially, requires bird protection, requires pre-treatment before laying |
The tow is suitable for the primary caulking of the log house and for sealing the crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality is divided into bale and roll (tape). Roll consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to drive between the rims. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Cons: the complexity of laying, unaesthetic appearance of the seams after caulking. |
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Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log cabins. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and vegetable fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not let in odors, provides good sound insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and environmentally friendly. Cons: prone to rotting, easily damaged by moths |
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Traditional heaters are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is produced in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, as well as in the form of a tape. Ribbon jute is soft and pliable, evenly compacted, used for both primary and re-caulking. Jute fibers and ropes are more convenient to use after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, it is not damaged by moths and other insects, it does not rot, it provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material quickly caking, short service life. |
The whole process is divided into two stages - the laying of insulation between the logs during the construction of the log house and the caulk itself. The insulation is laid after the installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.
They take a large bunch of moss and lay it with fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close next to each other.
The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of the same thickness. Wood should not shine through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It is better to put in excess than not to report, because a thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.
If tape insulation is used, the installation is much easier and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and fixed with staples of a construction stapler. When the tape ends, the new segment is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row along the perimeter is covered with insulation, the installation of the second crown is performed.
So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, the walls can be caulked.
The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of the log house
It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then it is much faster to form a roller out of it. When twisting the material, it must be slightly stretched along the seam, which contributes to greater compaction and uniform distribution of the insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not enough to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After that, the thickened roller is hammered into the gap.
If during the construction process the insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It must be applied to the seams with fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the desired density, the material will not be able to firmly fix itself and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Too short edges are difficult to tuck, respectively, the quality of caulking will be low.
If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking "in a set" is used. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow, which are wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.
Start from the edge of the lower crown:
Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The denser the voids are clogged, the better the insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil the appearance of the wall, and secondly, birds can pull the sealant apart. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in the same way.
For a decorative log house, a jute cord can be hammered along the entire length of the seams.
The corners are caulked separately after the walls are completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.
Since the seams between the logs have a semicircular shape at the corners, you will need a crooked caulk.
Step 1. The tape is placed vertically. They take it by the edge, apply it to the fillet seam and press it inward with a caulk. They step back a little and again drive the material into the gap.
Step 2 As soon as the insulation is a little fixed, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and hammer them deeper into the cracks.
Step 3 After filling and leveling the upper seam, they move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened, and slightly stretched so that it lies more evenly.
This is how the entire corner is consistently compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the look will be sloppy.
The caulking of the log house with special sealants is gaining popularity, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing. If the log house is made of rounded logs or glued beams, and jute is laid as a heater between the crowns, only sealant and foam polyethylene tow can be used. The sealing of the seams is carried out not earlier than the shrinkage of the log house.
Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris, wiped dry with a rag.
Step 2 A primer-primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams with a brush or sprayer. If the work is carried out in winter, the primer must be chosen on a rubber basis, in the summer - on a water basis.
Step 3. After the primer has dried, a tourniquet of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.
Step 4 Apply sealant. The composition is used in tubes, which is applied with a mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. The latter option is very easy to use: on one side of the tape, remove the protective film, apply it to the seam, press it with your hand and roll it with a roller.
Step 5 After sealing all interventional joints, remove the outer layer of the film so that the sealant hardens. At the end, the joints are covered with a colorless varnish or a tinting composition is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.
When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed out and the excess removed with a damp cloth.
If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed in the traditional way, after which the seams are closed with a sealant. After such processing, the need for subsequent caulking disappears.
The caulking of any wooden bath must be carried out in two stages: after the completion of construction and after a year of shrinkage. For work, the same insulation is used, which is laid between the links during construction. Traditionally, baths are used for caulking: moss, felt, tow, hemp. Readers will learn how to properly caulk a bath with their own hands, what tools are needed and the intricacies of the work, having studied the article to the end.
When assembling the bath box, a heater is laid between each log or beam. But wood shrinks regardless of chamber drying material or natural humidity. When shrinking, space appears between the logs, so it is necessary to caulk the bath for the first time to seal the seam and the second to eliminate the gaps that have formed.
It is easier to caulk a log cabin with the help of special tools: a caulk and a rubber mallet or mallet. If there is no caulk, then you can use a regular chisel.
For caulking a log cabin, a steam room uses natural heaters: moss, hemp, tow, felt. All materials are available, but each must be prepared in its own way.
Seam insulation with moss is a traditional method used by our grandfathers. Moss can be collected independently or purchased ready-made at a hardware store.
The price of moss is from 250 rubles, so it's cheaper to collect in the forest. The collected moss is laid out under a canopy and left to dry for 1-2 weeks. It is necessary to mix the moss every 2-3 days so that it does not rot. Using damp moss will cause mold and wood decay. But it is necessary to monitor drying, as overdried moss will be fragile and difficult to work with.
Moss Pros:
The material has more disadvantages:
Choosing moss to caulk a log house is necessary only as a savings. From the point of view of practicality and durability, it is better to pay attention to something else.
Felt is a natural material based on wool. But modern felt may be composed of smoked fibers. Moreover, the composition is: 60% wool and 40% artificial fiber, 70% artificial fiber and 30% wool. For a bath, they choose completely natural or with a high content of wool felt. The fact is that natural material does not burn, but simply smolders. Artificial felt is flammable.
Before work, the felt must be treated with a formalin solution, it will not allow moths to get divorced in the wool. After spraying, the felt is hung out in the sun and dried thoroughly.
The main advantages of felt include:
Tow does not need to be specially prepared before work. But moths and other insects like to settle in natural material, so the tow is impregnated with any protective compound, for example, formalin.
The main advantages of using tow:
Tow is an alternative to moss, since the price of the material starts from 70 rubles.
Modern insulation options: jute and flax fiber can also be used to caulk a log house. But despite the manufacturer's assurances about the naturalness of heaters, most of them contain artificial additives. They make jute and flax fiber durable, but environmental friendliness is reduced.
Natural jute is made from bast wood of the linden family. Jute has high strength, durability and resistance to moisture. Water, falling on the material, does not linger on the jute fibers, but quickly disappears.
Flax fiber is made from flax waste. The material performed well on construction sites. Does not rot and does not absorb moisture. But there are pitfalls, sellers offer the buyer flax wool instead of flax fiber. The materials are similar in composition, but batting has 40% artificial fiber. You can distinguish one from the other by color, lnovatin is light, and the fibers of natural insulation are darker.
Produced in the form of tape, cord. To caulk the log cabin of the bath, tape jute or flax fiber is used.
It is necessary to caulk the log cabin of your bath with a heater that meets your requirements and capabilities.
Caulking a bath is necessary in two stages:
It is difficult to re-caulk a log house from a profiled beam, since the lock will not allow the work to be carried out efficiently. Therefore, it is better to take a material with a profile chamber-drying or glued. So, shrinkage will be minimal and you won’t have to caulk again. All other types: a log, a simple bar, cylindering must be re-caulked. You need to work with special tools, as shown in the video:
To caulk a log house, various types of caulking are used:
A mallet (mushkel) is also needed. The tool is used to strike the caulk during work. The mallet can be replaced with an ordinary rubber mallet. We need a road builder, the tool helps to align the seam after punching with caulks.
You need to caulk the walls of the bath from the bottom up around the entire perimeter. Moreover, the work is first done by caulking one row from the inside and outside, then the second, etc. The fact is that when caulking, the bath rises by 5–15 cm. If you do not work consistently, then the structure will warp. By caulking the bottom groove along the entire perimeter, outside and inside, then the second, the bath structure will rise smoothly and evenly.
It is necessary to take care of the chimney before caulking the log house. The pipe is released at the junction with the ceiling and roof or removed for a while so as not to be damaged.
There are two ways to caulk a bath:
Let's consider each in more detail.
Caulking into the set is necessary when sealing large gaps and grooves. The selected material is twisted into a bundle of 15–20 mm and, for convenience, wound into a small ball. The tourniquet is substituted for the gap and hammered with a caulk and a mallet, as in the photo.
First from above, then from below. Align everything with the help of a road builder.
The insulation does not need to be twisted into a bundle. It is simply stuffed into the gap between the links, and then pierced with a mallet. Perform work until the insulation stops interfering between the logs of the log cabin of the bath.
It is necessary to caulk the log house slowly, carefully closing up every crack. Places where it is difficult to hit with a tool are simply foamed with mounting foam.
We answered the question of how to properly caulk a bath using various methods. After the log cabin of the bath has finished caulking, it must be sanded and coated with protective compounds. We'll talk about this next time.
What is a caulk? In fact, this is the process of compacting the log house with fibrous materials - moss, tow and others; in this case, heat-insulating material can be used as an interventional insulation - flax-jute fiber, polyurethane foam, for example. But it’s not so easy to caulk correctly - you will learn about all the intricacies and features of this process from this article. So, how to caulk a log house - with moss, tow, tape and sealants.
As soon as the log house is laid, it is still impossible to caulk it - after all, there is shrinkage ahead. One can understand, of course, the desire of those building a bathhouse to earn money, which is why they offer to caulk everything right there, but this should be done only at least six months later.
So, as soon as the log house has shrunk, you can start caulking it - from the bottom up, from the lowest crown. You need to do this like this: one seam is caulked, strictly along the perimeter of the entire log house - outside, then inside. It is impossible to caulk each wall separately - otherwise the log house will warp over time. The same applies to a separate caulking of the outer and inner sides - because of this, a dangerous vertical deviation of the walls can easily occur.
Caulking is a carefully, laborious business. At the same time, the master is obliged to constantly monitor the log house so that there are no distortions of the walls. And it’s bad if, after caulking, the whole log house has risen to a whole crown - this will invariably lead to falling out of logs from dowels or locks, and therefore it is better not to allow this.
So, here are the most common materials for caulking a log cabin bath:
Moss is an environmentally friendly material that has healing properties. It resists temperature changes and drying well, absorbs moisture, but does not rot. And most importantly - it has antimicrobial and tonic properties, and at the same time it serves for a long time.
This material for caulking has been used since ancient times. To date, it cannot be called the best, but many owners of baths use only it during construction.
So, when laying, you can use only highly moistened moss - then after the log house has dried, it will turn into a homogeneous dense mass that will fill all the cavities and cracks. Therefore, you won’t have to caulk the bath anymore. However, experienced builders are not advised to attach particular importance to the historical experience of its use - such a finish is still quite expensive.
Tow caulking is the most difficult. When the log house shrinks, it will gradually gain moisture and eventually rot, turning into dust. And then you will have to clean out this insulation, re-caulk everything and tightly fill the devastated cavities - and this will take a lot of time and effort.
Sealants for a log cabin are much more expensive than tow, but they also have their undeniable advantages. Sealants as a means of caulking are suitable if the frame is rounded, or well cut from an ordinary log, and the groove in it is semicircular. And if there is a jute cloth between the logs. In this case, you can really get by with one sealant. But, if the frame was made with the help of a chainsaw, and the groove in it is triangular in shape, then it is already necessary to fill the void, i.e. caulk for real.
If you use a sealant with tow, then everything should happen according to this scheme: the bath is caulked with tow twice, and after its complete shrinkage, the seams are sealed. And in order to save the sealant, it is advisable to lay a cord of insulation in the grooves.
Moreover, for seams of different widths - different types of sealant. But the seams are light and neat. Yes, and there is no risk of subsequent caulking.
One of the easiest ways to caulk is to caulk with tape. It does not need to be cut into strips, which makes the whole process much easier. And you need to do it like this:
So, if the insulation stuffing has become dense, like wood, the caulking went well. By the way, the masters advise taking at least 10 mm jute - and the thicker it is, the better.
It is easiest to consider the process of caulking a log house in more detail on a step-by-step video:
As for the caulking tool, in ancient times it looked exactly like this:
But today, a Chinese instrument is considered to be a quite worthy alternative, which is not expensive and is quite acceptable in quality.
By the way, if you use a solid tool for caulking, you cannot avoid chips and dents - because it will slide off. It is more difficult to use a soft caulk, but you can make it right on the spot, with your own hands. Wooden caulks with curved edges are also being made today, which are quite easy to penetrate into the depth of the seam, but skill is needed to use them.
In general, everything is within the power of a Russian person!
A log bath is a tradition that has not lost its relevance even after several hundred years. Wood has the highest level of thermal insulation among building materials, while the weight of a log structure does not go beyond the permissible limit. The only conditional disadvantage of this technology is the presence of gaps between the stacked logs.
When laying and fitting logs between individual elements, horizontal through-holes will inevitably remain along the entire perimeter of the bath, and before its operation it is necessary to caulk them.
To learn how to properly caulk a bath, you need to understand all the intricacies of this case. The process of caulking cracks in itself does not contain any difficulties, however, there are several special points that need to be taken into account.
This article will describe step-by-step instructions and highlights on the topic - “how to caulk a bath with your own hands”. In addition to describing the technology, it will also provide detailed information about how the bath is caulked, since in this case the correct choice of material plays a decisive role in the success of the entire process.
Forest moss is the most traditional material that our great-great-grandfathers used for caulking the log house. This is the most environmentally friendly material of all analogues used, as it is of natural origin, hand-picked and not processed with chemicals. It has bioactive properties - moths and mold do not start in it.
Moss is especially valued for its antiseptic properties - it does not rot even under the influence of high humidity. At the same time, moss caulking is not only not subject to decay, but also protects nearby areas from damage, which is especially important for warming a bath.
Also, the use of moss as a material for caulking can significantly save on the purchase of material, since it can be collected in a nearby forest with your own hands. Even if this is not possible, its price in stores is quite affordable. Natural moss is the most rational solution to the question, what is the best way to caulk a bath?
The most common material for caulking is a log house due to its cost, but linen has the lowest quality characteristics. Before caulking a bath with flax, it should be taken into account that there are practically no natural antiseptics in its composition - in connection with which, putrefactive bacteria, which wet wood contains in excess, will quickly destroy the formed seam, after which nearby areas will undergo degradation.
It quickly collapses under the influence of high humidity - its service life is from 1 to 3 years, after which the seam begins to crumble. Insects love it - moths, beetles, in the raw state, mold and fungus start up quite quickly. Without chemical treatment for the next season of operation, you can find a large number of insect larvae in it.
Note!
Some of the shortcomings of this material can be leveled by chemical impregnation, but this will negatively affect the atmosphere of the bath.
Of all the analogues used, flax can be called the most undesirable solution to the question: how to caulk a bath?
Recently, the opinion of experts on the issue of what is better to caulk a log cabin of a bath? - is increasingly inclined in favor of jute fiber, which has recently appeared on the domestic market.
And this is not without meaning - natural jute is a durable material containing a large amount of natural lingin, which gives it water-repellent properties. Also, jute is much less damaged by insects than flax.
Note!
Not to be confused with jute felt, which contains a certain proportion of flax, and, accordingly, all its negative qualities are present.
To distinguish them from each other is quite simple - 100% jute has a gray color.
In this process, there is practically nothing difficult - the main thing is to choose the right material for sealing the seams. You will need a mallet (wooden mallet) and a set of caulks. There are two technologies by which caulking of seams is made - stretched and set.
The correct selection of material and our helpful tips will help you carry out these manipulations without any difficulty. You can learn more clearly about the process of caulking a bath by watching the video in this article.
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