Installation of a door in a log house. How to insert a door into a log house wall - cutting out a doorway How to put a metal door in a wooden log house

It is common for every person to sink into the routine of everyday life. Sometimes you want to forget everything and just enjoy the quiet moments of life. Having a country house, you can build a bathhouse with your own hands, because this is not only a place where people come to wash, here you can pleasantly relax your body and soul. Proper installation of the door to the bath with your own hands will not be a time-consuming process if you know where to start and how to finish.

Some subtleties when choosing a door to the bath

Usually, when building a bathhouse, the location of two doors is provided: one leads to the bathhouse itself, the second leads to the steam room. Installing doors to the steam room has its own characteristics. The door must retain its structure and be resistant to heat, high humidity and temperature changes. The door should not only look beautiful, its main function is to insulate the room.

Therefore, the best solution for a Russian bath is to install a door to the bath with your own hands made of wood. Initially, the doors are divided: single-leaf and double-leaf. In baths with a “white firebox”, single-leaf doors are popular, and for a smoky bath it is better to choose a double-leaf door to get rid of smoke, opening only one half. But the choice always depends on the owners.

For Turkish baths, where the level of humidity is almost one hundred percent, glass doors are installed.

How to install a wooden door in a log cabin

There are two ways to install a wooden door:

1. Install a spike in the opening on the log and then put on the jamb;
2. Make a groove in the opening for the bar on which the doors will be held.

The width of the opening should be 1-2 cm larger than the door frame, after which the perpendicularity is checked using a plumb line and a building level. The opening is cut to the last log, then a threshold will be cut in it.

After the opening is ready, it must be leveled or plumb. The cutout in the opening should allow the bar to freely enter, but at the same time it should not hang out. Further, a jamb is nailed to the installed bar. After the door leaf is installed and all the cracks are sealed.

How to install a metal door in a log cabin

The block of a metal door is made of a box and a cloth. Such doors, as a rule, are installed in baths made of brick, wood or foam concrete. The gap between the block and the wall should be 2-2.5 cm.

The first step when installing doors to a log cabin bath is to make a pigtail with an upper gap of 10 cm.

The entrance door to the bathhouse should open outward, this is necessary to prevent the difficulties of evacuation during a fire.

Preparatory work for the installation of metal doors

Before proceeding with the installation of doors, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, and the whole process is as follows:

• The opening is being prepared;
• Customized sizes;
• The box is fixed to the opening;
• The gaps are closed;
• The door leaf is installed.

It is customary to install the block flush with the wall and fix it with anchor plates. If desired, the block can be made buried in the opening and it can be fixed with anchor bolts or steel pins. The inserted door frame in the opening is bursting with wedges of wood to fix the product in the desired position.

The position of the box is adjusted using the building level, the position is adjusted by shifting the blades to the side or in depth. After adjusting the desired position, the box will be firmly fixed, and will not move during the drilling process.

After that, the canvas is put on and its course is checked, which should be free when opening and closing the doors. Next, you need to remove the door in order to fix the lintel with a threshold from the porch side and put it on again, checking the move again. Correct the position of the box by tightening or loosening the nuts.

After completing the installation of the box, it is left without a canvas to seal the technological gaps with mounting foam, having previously sealed it with construction tape. Excess mounting foam is cut off and closed with cash.

How to make and why you need a pigtail

When installing the doors to the bath, a pigtail should be made and the installation of the upper bar is not done, since the lintel of the frame will act as a support. To avoid warping the doors, they are attached to carriages inserted into the groove.

If openings were originally provided during the construction of the log house, then there should be a gap of at least 10 cm between the lintel and the doorway, and 6 cm on the sides.

Holes for bolts are made before installation: two holes each on the lintel and threshold, and three holes each on the feigned and hinged jamb. After the bolts are inserted, the nuts are tightened.

The timber for the pigtail should be 100x150 cm. According to the height of the doors, carriages are sawn off and a groove 5 cm deep is cut along the axis of the timber on one of the selected sides, and a groove of 5 cm is made on the fourth part of the width of the wall on both sides of the frame. The resulting comb-shaped structure is finished with a chisel.

Further, a tape tow is fixed on the ridges, gun carriages are installed and then metal doors. The carriage gaps should remain 1 cm, and the upper gap of the door opening - 10 cm. The box is attached only from the side of the carriages and the threshold with self-tapping screws.

Technological gaps and cracks in a new log house are not recommended to be sealed with mounting foam, but tow is used for this. After three years, tow can be replaced with foam, but earlier this may lead to loss of tightness.

How to install interior doors to the bath

The installation of interior doors to the bath does not differ much from the front door:

• A box is being assembled;
• The canvas and the box beam are equipped with fittings;
• The position of the box is adjusted, after which it is fixed;
• The canvas is put on;
• Separated by platbands.

A wooden house or bath is constantly changing in size - it “sits down” a little, then rises again. Therefore, simply taking and rigidly fixing windows and doors into the openings will not work: either the frames will bend or the walls will “hang” - they will not be able to sit down when shrinkage. To prevent this from happening, a wooden casing box (casing or pigtail) is installed in the opening, which is held only by friction. It is already possible to attach a window or door frame to the elements of this box.

First, let's deal with casing profiles. Fixation due to the force of friction is provided by an elementary thorn-groove lock. In one case, a spike is made on the logs / timber of the opening, in the other, a groove is cut out.

If you have a wooden bath - a log house made of logs or timber, then the technology for installing windows and doors will be exactly the same as in the house. No difference. So everything described applies to the bath.

Monolithic casing boxes

The counterpart is often made from a single piece of wood. They are also called monolithic or finishing. Depending on whether the groove is cut out or a spike, the counterpart is made P or T-shaped. Please note that when installing windows or doors, fasteners should not go into the beam / log of the wall. To ensure proper reliability, the frames are mounted in the "thickest" parts of the casing.

The casing is made from a bar in which a groove is selected or a spike is cut. Accordingly, casing / pigtail profiles are P or T shaped

The material for the casing is a monolithic or glued timber. The use of glued beams in baths is not welcome: when using non-moisture-resistant glue (and this usually happens), the glue is destroyed by constant changes in humidity, the beam crumbles. Therefore, it is better to use a monolithic beam of the required size. Just note that the timber must be dry - no more than 12% moisture. Wet will crack or lead. Order at the sawmill a lumber of the required size for chamber drying, or dry it yourself in the shade in a draft for 4-6 months.

This type of casing is called monolithic or capital. You can already attach a window or door frame to it. If the windows/doors are plastic, the "face" of the casing can be left flat. If you plan to install wooden products, choose a quarter for them.

Which of these two casings / pigtails is considered the best? Properly done, both normally perform their tasks. Everyone chooses what is easier for him to do.

How to make a spike on the opening

There are two options - first cut a spike in the doorway, then make a casing under it. The second option is to mark the spike along the finished groove. In any case, markup is applied first.

The width and depth of the tenon should be 4-5 mm less than the dimensions of the groove. The casing is “planted” on a heater, and a place is required on it. The width is marked at the end of the logs / timber, the depth - on the side surface of the walls. When marking, it is important to maintain the verticality of the lines.

Next, they take a circular or chain saw, and cuts are made according to the marked marks. At the same time, it is important to maintain the required depth of cut on the side surfaces and not cut off the spike completely. If you don’t own a chain saw very well, it’s better to use a circular saw - you won’t be able to cut very deep there.

An example of the formation of a spike, see the video.

We make a groove in the opening

It is safer to make a groove: even if you have made too deep cuts, you can not remove the entire core, in extreme cases, make the spike on the pigtail larger.

Everything is simpler here: mark the width of the groove at the end. In this case, it is 4-5 mm larger than the groove on the casing / pigtail. Make two cuts, and remove the middle between them. There are virtuosos who do it with a chainsaw, but mostly they work with an ax, then they earn extra money with a chisel.

Casing box manufacturing

The casing box consists of two sidewalls (side racks), the top - the upper board and the window sill or threshold (also called the bottom). I must say that the lower part is not always present: it is often not done in interior doors. In some cases (when installing PVC windows, for example), they do not make a window sill, but simply a lower mortgage board, to which a “regular” window sill is then attached.

Also note that the tip does not rest against the top edge of the window or doorway. Between them there is a gap of 5-7 cm - for the shrinkage of the log house. This gap is then filled with insulation and closed with platbands, finishing materials.

Most of the questions arise when forming the locks necessary for joining the parts of the casing. These elements are especially difficult if a quarter is to be sampled. It is difficult to explain in words, here are the drawings. Take a look at them and see what's what. But the final understanding will come in the process: when you put the bottom and attach the side racks. They are circled with a pencil, then gradually cut out. In this process, it is important not to cut off the excess - it will not work to grow and there will be ugly gaps.

Before installing the casing, the window / doorway is treated with an antiseptic. Then lay two layers of insulation. The design is "dressed" on it. The procedure for assembling the casing on the windows is as follows:

• The lower part is installed.
• Put two sidewalls, check the accuracy of the coincidence of the locks. Hit the sides well.
• Set the top. Often he "does not climb" - the racks are closer than necessary. Do not immediately take up the saw. Take the spacers of the length that the opening should be, and use them to bring the window to the required dimensions. First, put it obliquely, then, aligning it, leveling it. The sidewalls crush the insulation and take the necessary position. After that, the top is in place.

Rough casing or in a mortgage bar

One of the varieties of pigtails, when a groove is cut in the opening, is into a mortgage bar. It differs from a monolith in that it consists of two parts - the actual embedded bar, which is inserted into the spike, and a separate casing board. The casing board is attached to the embedded beam, and the door frame can already be attached to it (it can also be attached directly to the mortgage).

Please note that the mortgage bar and the spike under it do a little more than in the monolith. This is necessary to make the fastening more reliable. When fastening windows / doors, fasteners must be chosen so that they do not go into the wall.

Of course, this option is much easier to implement. But they don’t like him very much: his reliability is still much lower than that of a monolith. But it can also be used - for light doors and for any windows. Another possible use is as a temporary option only for the time of shrinkage after the openings have been cut down and the log house has been left to dry. If the openings are not fixed, the walls can twist. In this case, a mortgage beam is an excellent solution.

They cut out / cut out a groove into which the timber is driven. It is no longer held on by anything - no nails, screws

Photo report on the production of a finishing pigtail

The work was carried out in a log house that had settled for a year. We used a purchased chamber-drying beam and the remnants of profiled construction, which dried for a year along with the house. The casing is monolithic U-shaped. The width of the spike turned out to be approximately 45 mm. This distance remains if you make a cut with a circular saw on both sides of the wall. In order not to modify later with a chain saw, it was decided to make the spike wider. Its height is 35 mm. The spike under the bottom / window sill is 1 cm high. Its task is to prevent the occurrence of a draft.

We start with the preparation of openings. First, cuts were made in the side planes of the walls with a circular saw. There were no problems with vertical cuts, and when cutting horizontally, the saw kept trying to go up and down. Be careful in this part.

Then we take a chain saw and finalize the spike. This is the most responsible and delicate work. We make the first pass from top to bottom. Its depth is only 1-2 cm. All subsequent ones - from the bottom up, gradually increasing the depth. In order not to mess up, a step-by-step algorithm was used: first, they cut it with a circular saw, stepping back from the cut 0.5-1 centimeter, they cut it with a chain saw, and brought it to the desired depth with a grinder and a planer. Long, but reliable.

The opening is ready. Let's start making a casing. First we make the bottom0-sill. In it we make a groove with a depth of 10 * 45 mm. Also, do not forget about the protrusions: the window sill should "go" onto the wall.

Now let's make the sides. They are from a bar 200 * 100 mm. It was adjusted to the dimensions and polished. The groove was molded using a milling cutter. It could have been done with a circular saw - it would have been faster, but less accurate.

After a circular saw, a quarter was made - its size is 70-30 mm.

Next, you need to cut out the locks. On the sides, those that go into the bottom are simple. All that is needed is to cut off 20-40 mm from three sides. If, like mine, there is a quarter, then on this side we cut out less to the depth of a quarter, i.e. cut out 10 mm (40 mm - 30 mm = 10 mm). Here is the finished spike.

Next, put it on the bottom, trace the outline with a pencil, remove all unnecessary. The castle is ready. Having installed everything in place, we see pretty decent cracks. Now the task is to bring them to a minimum by gradual adjustment. The main thing here is not to cut off the excess, since it is impossible to build up. Therefore, we gradually grind and try on, grind and try on.

When the lower locks are ready and fitted, you can cut the sidewalls. They should not reach the top of the opening by 6 cm. With this calculation, we cut it.

We make the top itself in the same way as the side racks, then we cut out a quarter in it. You'll have to fiddle around with the lock. There are two conditions:

• The distance above should be the same as below. We adjust all the dimensions of the spike based on this postulate.
• Then we also circle it, but the shape here is much more complicated. It is desirable to cut it so that there are no through connections, so that there is no way for air to freely enter from the street.

Therefore, we make stepped cutouts.

When the form is ready, the adjustment with the help of grinding begins again. We work slowly, slowly. When the proper result is achieved, we disassemble the box, grind, round the edges. In general, we bring beauty.

After grinding, we cover all parts (including openings) with antiseptics. After drying, the elements of the casing can be painted in the desired color. In any case, you can go through the paint once.

While everything dries, we lay a jute tape in the opening. There is no tape for the entire width of the casing; it was laid in two parts with an overlap in the area of ​​the spike. We apply a layer of sealant over the insulation.

First, they laid the bottom (it was not possible to put it on jute - it was torn off during installation, but the voids were filled later). Sidewall sat down, but with difficulty. The top part didn't fit at all.

We take a spacer, first we put it obliquely, then with a hammer - more horizontally. The sidewalls move a little. As a result of these manipulations, the upper part also sat in place.

After installing the spacer "village" and the upper part of the casing

To prevent it from moving, we install wedges. They are removed after the installation of window or door blocks. Here's what happened as a result.

A log house is the most common version of a suburban structure in middle and high latitudes. This is due to the characteristics of the material, which is characterized by a uniquely low thermal conductivity and provides warmth and a healthy oxygenated atmosphere even in the most severe winters. A log house is alive, “breathes”, changes in accordance with the seasons, and despite the abundance of building materials on the market, only wood can create such a level of comfort and coziness.

Features of doorways in a log house

However, precisely because of the ability of wood to change, equipping a log house with doors and windows is not an easy task. Modern designs - a door block, a metal-plastic window, require rigid fixation and a snug fit of the elements to the slopes of the walls. But it is in the log house that the walls give serious shrinkage - up to 1 cm per year, which does not allow the use of conventional installation methods.

Exactly the same difficulties are encountered and, if necessary, to install the doors to the bath. However, as a rule, a wooden door block is mounted in the bath extension, and from the same wood that was used for the construction, and this greatly simplifies the task. The entrance door to a residential log house requires sufficient strength and reliability, which a panel wooden door cannot provide.

The problem is solved with the help of a casing box - a structure made of thick wooden boards, taking into account the possibility of vertical displacement. This method provides, on the one hand, a fairly tight fastening, and on the other hand, due to the tolerance created, it prevents deformation and damage to products under the action of the log mass.

In any case, it is possible to install a door in a log house only a year after its construction, when the most active stage of shrinkage is completed.

How to insert a casing

There are three most common ways to assemble the casing. The choice depends on the financial capabilities or the amount of time the owner is ready to install the door with his own hands.

Casing box with an end tenon - casing is installed in a ready-made doorway on the spot, it is not necessary to fasten the structure in advance. The width of the board should be equal to the depth of the opening.

1. It is understood that the construction of the opening was carried out with the expectation to use casing on spikes - its width should take into account the presence of a spike. The latter is cut along both vertical slopes.
2. In the side posts of the casing, a groove is made corresponding to the size of the spike.
3. The spike is covered with an interventional sealant, then a side board is attached to it,
4. a horizontal jumper is installed, and then the second side board. The crossbar serves as a spacer for the sidewalls. There is a gap of at least 5-7 cm between the upper crossbar and the log house for wall shrinkage.

Casing on a mortgage beam - involves installation on the so-called sliding bars. For the latter, bars with a section of 5 * 5 cm are used.

1. In the slopes of the opening, a vertical groove is made according to the size of the board.
2. The bars are installed. Previously, it is recommended to lay heat-insulating material in the groove, for example, tow.
3. The assembled casing frame should be inserted between the sliding bars and attached to them with self-tapping screws.
4. The horizontal crossbar, as in the previous case, should be at a distance of 5–6 cm from the horizontal lintel of the opening. In the photo - casing.

Installation on bars - this method is used in order to save money. It differs from the above described by the absence of casing, the installation of the door is carried out directly on the sliding bars. A technical gap of 5–6 cm is maintained between the door frame and the lintel of the opening. The method is recommended for small buildings, for example, for baths or one-story log cabins. For large buildings, it is recommended to use the first two.

How to put a door in the casing

Installation is carried out in the usual way, but fastenings are made not to the walls of the house, but to the boards of the casing.

1. First, a door frame is installed without a leaf - or with it, if we are talking about metal entrance doors.
2. Using the building level, the position of the vertical and horizontal racks is aligned. Position adjustment is carried out with the help of wooden wedges placed in the gap between the frame uprights and the casing.
3. When the verticality of the frame is reached, the door frame is fixed with anchors.
4. Then you should hang the canvas. If necessary, the gaps between the casing and the frame are foamed.

The video on how to insert a door into a log house is described in more detail.

One of the most pressing questions that arise during the construction or repair of a wooden house is: “Do I need a door frame in a wooden house?”.

This question is far from being idle, since the time and money spent on the window and door locks are very significant and, oddly enough, are often not provided for in the original design of the house.

In our opinion, the answer to it is obvious: it is definitely needed, and the main proof of this is the age of this technology. For hundreds of years in Russia, wooden houses were built without milling cutters, band saws and electric drills, spending many times more time on each operation. And, nevertheless, doors and windows in a wooden house were always installed in a casing frame.

Consider what reasons determine the need to install window and door casing, and what designs exist.

Wood is a good and environmentally friendly building material, but it has one significant drawback - its linear and volumetric dimensions are not stable and depend on the level of humidity.

In turn, the moisture content of wood changes not only with time (due to natural drying), but also depending on climatic conditions.

For a new log house, the total changes in its geometric dimensions can reach 100-150 mm during the initial shrinkage and up to 7-10 mm during the rest of the operation period (due to seasonal humidity fluctuations).

We emphasize right away that moisture changes in dimensions always occur, even after the end of the shrinkage period.

So that dimensional fluctuations are not transmitted to those structural elements of the house, the dimensions of which must be unchanged, they are installed in special casing boxes, also called "casing" or "pigtail".

The connection of the casing with the rest of the structure of the house is always sliding. That is, the logs in the frame are displaced, and the dimensions of the frame remain constant.

The basis for disputes on the topic “Do I need a door frame in a wooden house?” is the assumption that when using modern methods of stabilizing wood (special modes of drying, impregnating with oil, etc.), seasonal fluctuations in dimensions in a wooden house are negligible and doors and windows can be installed in an old house without a pigtail.

To some extent, these judgments are correct. A wooden house built from profiled or glued beams, which has undergone special drying at the factory and treated with water-repellent agents, will indeed maintain stable dimensions in the first 5-10 years.

Impregnations and protective coatings also have a certain "shelf life" and even in the instructions for their use it is written that the coating needs to be updated (every 3-5 years). But in practice, this requirement is rarely met, especially in cases where the log house is sheathed on the outside with clapboard.

Summarizing the above, let's summarize: the installation of doors in a wooden house without casing can be performed only in temporary buildings, and even then, only under certain conditions, but the house for yourself and your family must be reliable and built with the installation of casing.

Types of pigtails for doors

Let's consider what types of casing for doors in a wooden house are in terms of labor costs and cost, since it is in this perspective that most builders who are faced with the need to make a pigtail consider this issue.

Mortgage beam

The fastest and cheapest way to prepare an installation site for wooden or metal doors is a pigtail in a mortgage beam.

In this case, the power frame is made from a conventional rectangular beam and is laid into the grooves punched in the ends of the openings.

The height of the casing frame under the door jamb should always be less than the opening by the shrinkage height of the log house (that is, by 60-100 mm).

The laying of the timber in the groove is carried out on a soft fiber seal (jute tape or lnovatin). No additional fastening is required - the frame should move freely in the grooves.

This technology is especially convenient in a log house, where logs can be supplied with ready-made grooves in the ends.

But since the door frame should be installed only within the casing frame - and its thickness is only 50-70 mm - this scheme is rarely used for mounting external doors. The optimal scope of the casing in the embedded timber is the pigtail of interior doors.

Okosyachka in a monolithic spike

In practice, for the installation of wooden and metal doors, a T-shaped casing is used in a monolithic spike. The difference from the previous version lies in the fact that the end of the opening is closed with a solid board, rigidly connected to the spike.

In general, door and window openings in the walls are arranged immediately after the installation of the log house. This is done initially by the construction team according to the project. But there are situations when it is necessary to make a door or window opening in a wooden house that is already fully built. Most often this is due to the need for an additional doorway in order for warm air from the system to quickly penetrate into all rooms of the house. Well, or just wanted to cut an additional window opening.

It is quite natural that the more solid the wall, the easier it is to arrange an opening in it. More precisely, not so much easier, but faster and at the lowest cost. It all depends on .

Door and window openings in a wooden house made of logs or timber

Indeed, in order to arrange door or window openings in the walls of a wooden house made of logs or timber, it will not take so much. This is a plumb line, a long ruler (The longer the better. A meter straight rail will do), a marker or pencil with a thick lead, a hammer, nails and an ordinary chainsaw or electric saw.

Just in case, it is also worth preparing bars of 100x100 mm. in the height of the room, that is, 2-2.5 meters long - about them a little more later.

There are cases when, when sawing through a door or window opening, the wall of a wooden house begins to bend in one direction or another. In the event of such a problem, through holes for bolts are drilled in these bars and the wall of the house at equal distances from each other. Then the prepared bars are attached to the wall of the house on both sides (it happens only on the inside) from the deflection, and the protruding part of the masonry of the house wall between the bars is pulled together with bolts.

Then, work on sawing the opening in the wall of the wooden house is resumed, and after the installation of the pigtail, these bars are removed, since the pigtail itself strengthens the window or doorway.

Note. If your wooden house is made of logs, then the openings must be arranged, leaving not the whole, but 1/5 or 2/3 of the logs above and below the opening. This is done so that the window and door openings will be correctly completed in the future.

Read more about the installation of a pigtail (casing) of window and door openings, about the use of a cranial bar and about installing windows and doors in a wooden house, read in.

Important. Before sawing the opening, make sure that solid logs or beams are located above the future opening, which will evenly distribute the future load on the walls on opposite sides of the opening.

Note. If the frame of a wooden house is assembled from glued beams, then when sawing, peeling of the boards glued together is possible. To avoid this problem, boards are nailed to the walls of the house on both sides of the opening being arranged.

Door and window openings in a timber frame house

In order to make an opening in the wall of a frame house for a door or window, in the place of the intended opening, you will first have to get rid of the cladding, both external and internal, and remove the entire internal pie from heaters, etc. That is, in fact, you only need to leave a frame of bars .

Then, between the supporting vertical posts, a frame is arranged for the future window or door, and the remaining sections of the wall are sewn up again.

As you can see, if you have the necessary tools, skill and desire, it is not at all difficult to arrange an additional door or window opening in a wooden house. The main thing here is the right place in the wall, a firm hand, slowness and the help of one or two people.

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