How long do violets live? From a small leaf to a lush flowering plant, or how to grow a violet from a leaf.

Violets in the house: how long do they live, is it necessary to rejuvenate, how to rejuvenate and transplant a violet? Read today's article if the topic is relevant to you.

How many years does a room violet live

The plant “once and for all life” is about violet. miniature plant a real record holder among plants. By regularly renewing, repotting and rejuvenating a violet, you can spend decades in the company of your flower friend, the only question is how to properly develop and renew the violet.

In apartment conditions, the violet is put up on the windowsills, placed next to heating appliances , which can spoil the health of the flower - the leaves will fall off, the earthen lump will dry out. You can prevent diseases if you properly dispose of the location and update the shoots. Then the violet lives 10-15 years without problems and then the issue of re-care.

How to rejuvenate a violet:

• Cut off the apical part when the stem is exposed;
• Sprinkle with coal the remaining "stump";
• You can propagate cut cuttings;

Periodically, the violet will be exposed, opening leaves and shoots., which indicates a lack of nutrition, about the obsolescence of the root system, the need for transplantation or pruning. In this case, all blown leaves are removed from the plant. You can from time to time heal the soil by removing upper layer and pouring new earth. For a more serious update, a transplant is carried out: transfer the violet from the pot to the oilcloth, clean it of clods of old earth, inspect and, if necessary, cut off the root system.

New soil for planting room violets:

• 1 cm small pebbles on the bottom;
• 1 part sand;
• 1 part of leaf land;
• 1 piece of turf;
• A couple of pieces of sphagnum moss;

After transplantation, the rosette of leaves will be updated and the violet will return to its former lively, varietal color. After a couple of months, new roots will even grow, which will give, respectively, live shoots - up to 2-3 cm each.

How to feed a violet to live longer?

In addition to the standard mixture, we need top dressing that stimulates development. Violet is often fed "Uniflor-growth" or "Uniflor-bud", which has proven itself among flower growers. For additional leaf growth, constant daylight in the spring and illuminated with lamps in the winter.

Violet will live long

As it grows, the upper part of the violet will increase. We know that a pot is chosen just right for a plant - growth stops in a large one - but if development is proceeding rapidly, do not be afraid to change it. No matter how many years the room violet lives, she needs to provide suitable conditions , that is, take into account elementary needs: a pot, earth, watering, temperature, lighting.

In fact, the longevity of violets is based on the characteristics of the variety and the care of the flower. The last point lies entirely on the shoulders of the grower. Transplantation can be carried out no more than 1 time in 3 years, but the rejuvenation of the rosette of leaves, described above, once every 2 years. Removal of dead parts and leaves - if necessary. With care, you could very well make a violet the first 60 or 80 year old plant in the history of floriculture.

↓ Write in the comments how long does your room violet live? How do you update the plant?

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Buyer Admin Admin

Thank you very much for purchasing a varietal violet from us! I hope that this plant will delight you with its beauty and warm your soul.

leaf cutting

You brought home a stalk of your favorite Saintpaulia.

1. Immediately release the sheet from the packaging.

2. Rinse the sheet in the manganese solution.

3. Make an oblique cut on the handle. Leave a leg 2 cm long from sheet plate. Leave the stalk in the air for 1-2 hours so that the cut dries out a little.

4. In a small glass (plastic glass), put moistened (not wet) soil. Stick the cutting into the ground at an angle almost to the leaf plate. The sheet plate should not touch the surface of the soil, otherwise it may rot. Place the glass in a greenhouse (tie in plastic bag). Please note that the sheet does not touch the bag.

5. Optimum temperature for rooting a Saintpaulia leaf 21-23 C.

kids

1. About a month and a half after planting the leaf, the first babies appear. The time of emergence of children may be different, depending on the variety and conditions.

2. When the children appear, the greenhouse needs to be slightly opened every day for a while. So that the children do not rot, moisten the soil very carefully, water should not get on the young leaves. It is very convenient to use a syringe with a needle.

3. If the sheet does not give children for more than 3 months, then it must be stimulated. To do this, take a knife or razor (wipe with alcohol or manganese solution) and cut off the top of the sheet, about a third of the entire plate. Air dry the cut for 3 hours and cover again with a bag. After such a procedure, children soon appear.

4. Children are growing up, do not rush to separate them from the "mother". It is recommended to separate the children from the sheet when the first leaves reach the size of a two-ruble coin.

5. Plant the separated children in separate small pots (no more than 5 cm in diameter, you can use plastic cups). For the first three weeks, it is advisable to keep the "youth" in the greenhouse, for better rooting.

6. After a month, carry out the first feeding with a weak solution complex fertilizer.

blooming violet

1. It has been noticed that young violets bloom faster in small pots. How more pot, the more vegetative mass and fewer flowers.

2. The first flowering occurs after about 5 months (depending on the variety and conditions), after the rooting of the baby.

3. It is recommended to remove the first peduncles, leave one peduncle to see if the violet blooms by variety. Having cut off the first flower stalks, you lay the future for abundant flowering. Remove flower stalks from the sinuses, moving to the sides (Do not pull on yourself!).

4. Constantly remove the resulting stepchildren in the axils of the leaves.

5. Feed every three weeks with a solution of a complex fertilizer for flowering plants.

Rooting in peat tablets

1. Soak peat tablets in warm water for swelling.

2. We take a simple a plastic cup, make a hole in the bottom, insert a synthetic cord. Put the cord on the bottom in the form of a ring, part of the cord should hang from the bottom of the cup (about 5 cm).

3. Put a layer of moss (sphagnum) on the bottom of the cup with a cord, put two soaked peat tablets, lay the free space with moss.

4. Insert leaf cuttings into peat tablets (leaf plates should not touch each other).

5. In Plastic container pour a weak solution mineral fertilizer, cover with a lid in which a hole for the cord is made.

6. Place the cup on top of the container and dip the cord into the fertilizer solution.

7. With this rooting method, a greenhouse is not required.

Rooting in agroperlite

1. Wet agroperlite is applied in a zip bag with a layer of 2-3 cm.

2. The cut and dried sheet is stuck into agroperlite, the zip-pack is snapped and hung in a bright, warm place.

Rooting in sphagnum moss

1. Wet is placed in a cup moss - sphagnum, the cutting is inserted.

2. The cup is covered with a bag

Growing mixes

1. Peat soil.

The most common substrate for growing violets. Purchased can be used ready soil. And you can cook yourself. I would like to note that each violet grower uses his own recipe for preparing a land mixture.

We use the following: 2 parts of peat, 1 part of leafy humus, 0.5 parts river sand, 1 part chopped sphagnum moss. If desired, agroperlite can be added to loosen the soil.

2. Landless substrate

Landless substrates are used for wick cultivation. The substrate is made up of 1 part of riding (red, weathered) peat and 1 part of a mixture of vermiculite with perlite. Instead of peat, you can use coconut chips, after soaking and rinsing well.

top dressing

Most the best fertilizer for violets - Finnish-made Kemira Combi. Unfortunately, not so long ago the plant in Finland was closed, it remains to use Kemira domestic production. You can use other fertilizers, as long as they have a high potassium content.

Kemira is convenient to direct in the following way: 20 gr. Dilute dry fertilizer in 1 liter of water. Get a 2% solution. We take 25 ml of a concentrated fertilizer solution (5 teaspoons) and dilute it in 1 liter of water - a 0.05% solution is obtained, feed the violets every 10 days. Fertilizer concentrate has a very long shelf life.

I wish you success in growing violets!

Many people love and breed at home. These cute plants bloom very beautifully and for a long time, while most varieties are quite unpretentious in their care. There is a considerable selection of indoor violets various varieties with different sizes and shapes of leaves, a shade of flowers.

Indoor violets - types

When the violet was just beginning to be studied, there were about 20 species of it. Over time, new varieties were bred, which differ in color, leaf shape, and inflorescences.

According to the type of inflorescence, large-scale indoor violet flowers are divided into terry and fringed. The color of both can be very different, including one-color, multi-color, with patterns, with a border. At ampelous species with branched stems there are few inflorescences, in other species the inflorescences are heapy and there are many of them.

How to breed indoor violets?

If you suddenly saw pots of colorful violets at someone's house and really wanted to breed them at home, you just need to ask the hostess to break off one leaf from each plant for you.

You can either immediately plant them in the ground and cover the pots with polyethylene with holes, or put them in a glass of water with diluted in it activated carbon until roots appear.

If an adult plant already has daughter sockets, you can plant them in separate containers. propagate violets better in spring in March-April.

By the way, violets periodically need to rejuvenate. Few wondered how long room violet. It turns out that she also has a limited period, after which she degenerates, sheds her lower leaves and resembles a palm tree. This is harmful for her, her rosette grows thin, the flowers become smaller. Therefore, once every couple of years you need to do transshipment.

You need to transplant into large pots, for the first time covered with a film. When you notice intensive growth, polyethylene can be removed.

How to grow a violet from a leaf, at least theoretically, everyone who has ever grown violets at home knows. This breeding option for violets is considered the simplest and most understandable - growing a full-fledged plant from a small leaf is within the power of beginner growers, unlike other methods (stepchildren, peduncles or, even worse, seeds).

Selected leaf stalk carefully break it off by moving it away from the violet

Healthy adult plants with a well-formed rosette are suitable for cuttings. A leaf cutting is taken from the second or third row from the bottom of the outlet, choosing the most green, strong leaf without signs of rot and drying, without scratches and burn spots. Can't develop into good plant yellowed leaves due to the depleted supply of nutrients and leaves from the center of the outlet, which have not yet had time to accumulate enough vitality. For variegated varieties of violets, choose leaves that are dominated by green color.

Carefully break off the selected leaf stalk, moving it away from the violet. It is desirable that the leg remain at least four centimeters, but even if you accidentally break off the stalk shorter, nothing particularly terrible will happen - the leaf still has every chance to take root.

Now cut the leg obliquely to 3 cm using sharp knife or a razor. Scissors should not be used when trimming indoor flowers, as they pinch the capillaries of plants. Shank length crucial for the survival of the leaflet and the formation of children does not have. If you cut the stem shorter, when germinating in water, it will be more difficult to ensure that the cutting does not dry out and the leaf plate does not get wet. A long stalk will lead to a bend in the leaf, and when germinating in the substrate, it will need to be supported with something additional.

If you cut the stem shorter, when germinating in water, it will be more difficult to ensure that the cutting does not dry out.

To increase the chances of a leaf cutting to root successfully, dip it completely for a few seconds in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then leave it to dry for half an hour.

HOW TO GROW VIOLETS WITH WATER

The main advantage of germinating cuttings in water is that you can see with your own eyes how it develops. root system and control this process. As a container, it is best to use dark glass medicine bottles, in which the stalk will not rest against the bottom, and the leaf will not fall into the water. Opaque plastic cups or yogurt containers are also suitable, however, many people successfully grow violets at home in transparent cups and small jars. Just don't use crystal glassware- the cuttings will rot in it.

Having decided on the container, put a violet leaf stalk in it and pour boiled or settled water room temperature. Make sure that the leaf blade does not touch the water, otherwise it will begin to rot. Now you can cover the container with the violet leaf with a plastic bag and put it where it is light and warm, but not in direct sunlight. Water should not be changed, it is enough just to add it from time to time to the desired level. After two weeks or later, the first roots appear on the cut of the cutting.

In the autumn-winter period, the cutting is likely to rot, because it lacks light. Seeing that the cutting has rotted for some reason, cut it to a healthy tissue, process it with crushed activated charcoal, dry the cut in air and change the water in the container.

Further cultivation of violets in water is as follows:

Two weeks later or later, the first roots appear on the cut of the cutting;

When the roots grow to one centimeter, the stalk is transplanted into a cup with drainage holes, a layer of expanded clay or crushed foam and a loose earthen mixture;

A small depression is made in the ground, where a cutting with a root system is carefully installed at an angle;

The stalk is sprinkled with earth by 1.5 cm, without tamping;

The leaf is supported with a toothpick or a match;

A glass with a handle is covered with a bag and put back;

When the topsoil dries up, the plant is watered with warm settled water.

If you notice after a month and a half that small children have appeared at the rooted cutting, it means that you managed to grow a violet from a leaf! Young shoots will then need to be planted in different flower pots.

SECRETS OF SUCCESSFUL GROWING OF VIOLETS FROM A LEAF IN THE GROUND

Majority experienced flower growers tend to agree that growing violets from a leaf in a special substrate gives more successful outcome- cuttings rot less often, take root faster and give more babies.

Ready soil for violets, which is sold in any flower shop, is not really suitable for growing violets. In any case, you will need to add baking powder such as vermiculite, styrofoam, perlite or sphagnum moss to it. Better yet, prepare the mixture yourself by mixing perlite and vermiculite in equal proportions; it is not necessary to add nutrient soil. Perlite is an indispensable component for growing violets, since it provides air access to the roots, while vermiculite makes the soil mixture loose and absorbs moisture. The peculiarity of sphagnum moss is that, while absorbing moisture, it gradually gives it to the roots of the plant.

Perlite is an indispensable component for growing violets.

Technology, how to grow a violet from a leaf in a substrate:

Cut and process the violet stalk as above;

Fill a plastic cup with drainage holes with slightly moistened warm substrate (it doesn't have to be wet!);

Plant the violet stalk in the mixture, compacting it a little so that the leaf does not stagger;

To prevent the leaf stalk from falling, you can support it with something;

Watering the plant immediately after planting is not necessary;

Create a "greenhouse" - place a cup with a handle in a plastic cake box or cover with a new plastic bag (an individual bag for each plant).

For the first time after planting, the violet leaf may wilt a little - do not rush to pull it out of the ground, this is normal. Within a week or two, with the appearance of roots, the leaf plate will restore its elasticity. Water the planted stalk should be once a week, and then only slightly so that the damp soil does not turn sour. You should not fertilize the leaf with anything, then it will soon release roots in search of food. Once every three days, open the "greenhouse" for airing for ten minutes. The bag is removed from the plant after a month, when the children are visible.

There are no special wisdoms in how to grow a violet from a leaf, it is enough just to take into account the basic rules, and then you may well succeed the first time.

There are many options for planting a violet leaf. I want to remind you once again that these are answers to frequently asked questions "How to plant a leaf", "I'm afraid I won't be able to grow from a leaf ...". It is for those who have not yet decided to grow a violet from a leaf - these notes. This is my experience with leaf violets. I came to him after countless discarded leaves and mature plants. I hope you find it useful.

When to expect what? - all terms will be called from the date of separation of the leaf from the mother plant.
After 3 weeks - roots, after 5 - 6 weeks - children, after 12 weeks - seating of children from the mother leaf, after 5 months transplant into an "adult" pot, after 6 - 9 months - flowers. These are approximate dates!
The leaf stalk (leaf, it consists of a stalk-stalk and a leaf plate)) is separated from the mother plant. (We break off the sheet, taking it to the side). If the sheet is damaged, slightly scratched, notched - NOTHING WRONG!!! top(1/3) of the leaf plate is often cut off to speed up the emergence of babies.
Now we will cut the cutting, leaving 3 cm. If it accidentally broke off and remained shorter, the leaf will also take root perfectly.
Let's Cook Lightly warm solution potassium permanganate light pink. Completely put the leaf in this solution for a few seconds.

The leaf can be rooted in water: This option is more preferable - cuttings often rot in water, leaves placed in water often lose turgor. In any case, very often flower growers talk about the death of leaves rooted in this way.
The second option is rooting the leaf. And this way is much better!
The leaf can also be rooted in a light mixture.
Preparing the mixture - simply and quickly:
- A glass of vermiculite
- A glass of perlite
- a glass of any nutrient soil
You can do with only perlite and vermiculite, without adding soil.
Pour this mixture warm. boiled water.
We take a plastic pot with a diameter of 5 - 6 cm and fill it with the prepared mixture.
We plant a leaf in the mixture, deepening the cutting by 1 cm. If it falls, you can make a support from counting sticks, plastic tubes for a cocktail, etc. We put it in a greenhouse, or better just cover it with an individual bag.
There should not be water in the pan of the greenhouse, there is already sufficient humidity. The mixture was completely saturated with water, now the excess water must be poured out. No one has yet said that when rooting in this way, the leaves die. Well, what if the leaf is withered? Let's put it in wet moss, and be sure to put it in a greenhouse, or, more simply, under a bag. You can cover the entire leaf with wet moss. Secret in high humidity and warm. Well, of course, keep the leaves away from the windowsill! So, our leaf is sitting, and we are waiting for the roots.
The sheet does not need to be fertilized with anything. It has to look for food - then it puts out roots.
The roots of the leaf appear 2 to 3 weeks after separation from the mother plant. Sometimes after 4 is also acceptable.
When “babies” appear at the base of the leaf (after about 5-6 weeks), the greenhouse can be removed - at first gradually, for a few minutes a day, and when the “babies” are 2 centimeters high, they can be removed completely.

It doesn't really matter what soil you use for violets. The main thing is any soil that says “specially for violets, completely ready for use, with the addition of perlite, moss, etc.” in fact
not ready for growing violets.
Baking powder must be added to it. Best of all - sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite. Moss absorbs moisture and then gradually gives it to the roots, perlite provides "forced" air access to the roots, vermiculite absorbs moisture and keeps the soil loose. You can do without moss and vermiculite, but perlite must be present. You can get by with finely chopped foam.

Leaves and babies should be kept at a temperature of at least 20 degrees. Optimal - 24 - 26. Adult violets - at a temperature of at least + 18.
You can not germinate leaves or "kids" on the windowsill. Leaf or baby need minimum temperature+20 degrees. On the windowsill at night + 12 - 15. This is only permissible for adult plants (although very undesirable). Put the thermometer on the windowsill and see what the temperature is early in the morning.
So the kids grew up
each "baby" has 3 - 4 pairs of leaves, they have reached a height of about 4 - 5 centimeters.
We spread them. We take out the whole plant from the pot, not trying to shake off the ground. Let the roots of the "kids" remain with lumps of earth on them. Carefully separate the children from the mother sheet and from each other. Everyone learns this process only on their own in practice.
Each baby formed a small "wound" - a place of separation from the mother's sheet. We sprinkle this wound with crushed coal.
We seat the children in pots with a diameter of 4–5 cm. The diameter of the child (opened leaves) should be equal to the diameter of the pot.
For planting children, the mixture should contain more nutrient soil.
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a cup of vermiculite
- Two cups of nutrient soil
Pour the mixture with warm boiled water, put in a greenhouse for several days. The greenhouse must have holes for air. A fully sealed greenhouse should not be for leaves or for children.

When "kids" became "starters"
young plants, ready to lay peduncles (diameter 12-15 cm, leaves with a diameter of 3-4 cm, about 6-8 leaves)
- we plant them in pots with a diameter of 6 - 7 cm.
At the bottom of the pot we put drainage pebbles - expanded clay (or moss, or crushed foam) with a layer of 1 cm.
Mixture:
- Half cup chopped sphagnum
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a cup of vermiculite
- Three cups of nutrient soil
We also do not put these children on the windowsill. There are strong temperature fluctuations even in summer.
You can try to put it on the windowsill when 2-3 months have passed after the children were planted from the mother sheet. Better not to the south window. In general, a lot of trouble with the windowsill. Certain varieties can not stand the sun, you need to shade the plants. During the day they can "hang" the leaves. On window sills, plants are often attacked powdery mildew – white coating on flowers and buds, rot, fungal diseases. So, violets are best grown on a shelf under the backlight. A lamp (3 cm in diameter) 60 cm long at a distance of 25 cm from the crown of plants illuminates a shelf 30 cm wide. In this case, you need two thin Chinese lamps with a power of 20 watts (the diameter of such a lamp is 1 cm). Lamps are suitable for any, it's about the intensity of lighting. The light should be brighter than for reading.
Violet should receive bright light for 12 to 14 hours daily. On the windowsill, in any case, it receives enough light only from March to September. In October, normal light is only from 9 am to 5 pm - this is 8 hours, and even less in winter. That's why violets bloom on the windowsill by May - two months of normal lighting have passed
(March and April). 60 days is the normal period for laying the peduncle and its development.
On shelves under illumination, violets bloom for 2 months, then rest for 2-3 months. There are no seasons, and the leaves take root in any month.
Do not try to plant a violet in a spacious pot.
In a pot that is too large, the earth turns sour, the violet can “go away” into the leaves, and it will not bloom well. The maximum pot for an adult violet is 9–11 cm in diameter (for large varieties- 12 - 13 cm). the rule is that the diameter of the outlet is three times the diameter of the pot.
Watering - warm water, settled, boiled, or passed through a filter. Before watering, add a little boiling water to water at room temperature so that the water is slightly warmer than fresh milk.
Never reuse any components land mixtures or drainage! There are two reasons: Firstly, the soil has already given all its nutrients. Secondly, microorganisms have already begun to multiply there. By the same principle, they do not plant the same crop in the same garden for two years in a row in the garden.

Good luck to you! source http://fialki-flame.ru/start_first_steps.html