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A simple six-plank punt. DIY boat: best projects and tips on how to make a wooden or plywood boat

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Powerboat DIY plywood is of interest to many of our compatriots for two reasons - creative nature and lower cost. Despite the apparent complexity of the project, it can be understood and brought to life.

But for this, a factor such as your desire to do this is extremely necessary. In addition, what you did yourself will be more valuable to you morally, so stay with us and we will show you a video in this article.

We make a small-sized watercraft

Note. We will not consider a specific design, for example, do-it-yourself drawings of a folding plywood boat.
Our goal is to tell you about general principles and methods for making small watercraft.

Required materials and tools

Plywood selection:

to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, you will naturally need this same plywood, only of different thicknesses;
for the hull you will need a sheet thickness of 5 mm, but for the keel and frame you will need 10-15 mm thickness(select the length of the panel depending on the length of the case);
as you understand, high-quality products are needed here, therefore, you will have to choose either elite E or 1st grade for work– the price, of course, will be higher, but the quality will rise along with it;
in addition, it is important, on which the water resistance and strength of plywood depend - the most the best brands here we can call FSF or FSF-TV (flammable), FB and BS (aviation - also used in shipbuilding).

Solid wood:

to decorate the sides, install seats and arrange spacers inside the boat hull, you will need solid wood;
best suited for this purpose edged board made of pine - it is lighter than larch, but due to its resin content, it tolerates wetness well.

Suture material:

to tighten the body and connect other parts into a solid structure, you will need suture material;
for this you can use thin knitting steel or copper wire, thick nylon fishing line or plastic clamps.

Sealing:

in order to prevent the boat from leaking, all seams must be sealed with water-repellent glue - on at the moment there are a lot of them sold;
as practice shows, compositions based on polymer resins are best suited for this purpose;
To seal seams, fiberglass is also used - a tape made from it is placed on the glue along the joint;
You can also use fiberglass for this purpose, covering the sides and bottom with it;
to protect against swelling, water-repellent varnishes and adhesives are used, impregnating the body and jumpers with them - for this you can, for example, use bakelite varnish or glue;
In addition to impregnation, you will also need polymer paint, which will complement moisture resistance and decorate your boat.

Tools:

to make a boat with your own hands from plywood, you will, of course, need tools and, first of all, this circular saw and/or electric jigsaw(a hacksaw will also come in handy);
a set of hand carpentry tools in the form of a hammer, chisels, pliers, etc.;
disc or belt sanding machine;
tape or steel clamps;
paint brushes for applying impregnations and paints and varnishes.

Select a drawing

Important!
Before you start assembling, find the drawings that are suitable for your case - how to make a boat from plywood with your own hands, it could be a flat-bottomed fishing boat that you will use on weekends or a kayak for hiking during your vacation.
But if you are already experienced in “shipbuilding”, then you can try to draw such a project yourself, but here it is very important to calculate the carrying capacity so that the watercraft does not capsize during operation.

Talking about building a wooden boat is very important in any plan, because it component our domestic fishing, its history, and we must remember and honor our master boatmen. Unfortunately, there is practically no continuity in this matter. The overwhelming majority of masters are already elderly, and young people are in no particular hurry to take up the baton. But let’s hope that boat craftsmen who create truly excellent fishing vessels will not be lost in our country.

For anyone who wants to make a wooden boat with their own hands, it is important to immediately decide what shape it needs. By and large, the choice comes from only two main options - keel and flat-bottomed. Everything else is nuances. Keelboats are valuable for their speed and require less effort from the rower. But the advantages specifically for fishing are not the most significant, especially in small bodies of water, and keel models have plenty of disadvantages. They are more difficult to manufacture, less stable, and have a higher chance of capsizing under some circumstances. On rivers, it is more difficult for keelboats to maintain a course in a fast current. In addition, they are poorly suited for fishing with wiring - the stream, escaping from under the keel, forms whirlpools at a great distance that interfere with normal fishing, and careful bites are hardly noticeable.

I, like most DIYers, make punts. The bottom is oval, with a curve towards the sides. This is the best universal option for lakes and rivers, very stable, quite easy to use. It all starts with choosing the right boards. In my opinion, of the most affordable wood, spruce is the best choice. Also good option- put spruce on the bottom and aspen on the sides, which, when it dries well, is light and quite durable.

My boat is within five meters long, and for the sides I will need four six-meter boards with a thickness of 30mm. I consider the optimal side to be 40-45cm high. Accordingly, two boards (about 25cm wide) are just enough for one side. Of course, it is advisable to take boards without knots, although this point is not as important as is often stated. Yes, if a knot is literally pushed out with your finger, then the board is not suitable, but often there are tightly seated healed knots that hold tightly, with such “semi-defects” the board is suitable.

Another more important point is to calculate outer side boards and the inner one, only then will it bend as expected. Here I look at how the growth rings are located at the end of the board - the convex part should look outward, it is on this side that the outer part of the board will be. The board bends towards the concave part of the annual ring. If you bend it the other way around, the board may crack. The bend of the growth rings is visible the worse the boards are cut from thicker wood, and if in doubt, it is safer to contact an experienced carpenter to tell you where the outer part of the board is. By the way, if you know an experienced joiner or carpenter, it is useful to get advice on incomprehensible aspects of working with wood, even if he doesn’t really know anything about making boats. He can tell you a lot.

An important question is to build a boat from dried or raw boards. This is a double-edged sword: it is much easier to bend everything from a damp one, but there is a higher chance that somewhere the boat will move after drying, if something is assembled incorrectly. I myself assemble the sides from raw wood without any problems - nothing happens to them, but I learned to make the bottom from dry wood. Moreover, I assemble the bottom in a non-standard way. Usually the boards along the bottom are laid along the boat; this technique gives a minimum number of cracks. I went the opposite way - I lay it across the longitudinal axis of the boat. This option gives the structure greater rigidity, and the boat can be made with a less powerful frame, reducing costs and, more importantly, weight.

If the boat will be operated without a motor, then when laying it transversely, ordinary spacers are sufficient to prevent the sides from moving apart (their angle of inclination is about 30 degrees), and due to the bottom, the entire structure turns out to be quite rigid and reliable.

The always “sore” question is about the joints through which water can leak, destroying the wood. I let the side boards overlap, the top one extends about five centimeters behind the bottom one. First, I draw this line and connect the two side boards strictly along it. You need to draw it perfectly, otherwise, God forbid, you put one board a centimeter higher or lower, in the end there will be a difference of half a meter... Before connecting the side boards, I coat the joints with drying oil or something else protective composition. If you have doubts about the tightness of the connection, you can also use a sealant to make sure.

But I don’t have any cracks on the sides. I connect these boards with screws (hardened, black), hold them tightly, and select the length so that they don’t go right through. If somewhere the boards are not pressed tightly, I take a six-piece wire, cut a thread on both sides, drill a hole in the boards, insert a pin and tighten it tightly with nuts through washers on both sides, remove the protruding ends of the pin with a hacksaw, and smooth the ends with a file. As for the bottom, here, on the contrary, I try not to lay the boards tightly together, I make a gap as thick as a match. During the assembly process, I fill these gaps with suitable twine. If you fold the boards tightly, the bottom may subsequently move. In a well-assembled boat, the bottom seams may not be sealed, and there will be no leaks; it’s just advisable to treat the joining areas with some kind of protective agent, then the boat will last longer.

I do the final processing of all the wood when it is completely ready. I paint both the inside and outer part. Simple will do oil paint. It is advisable to first coat it in the old fashioned way with well-heated drying oil so that the paint adheres better. Once a season it is useful to carry out maintenance on the boat. As a rule, this is a small touch-up of peeling areas, and it is always useful to pre-paint the seams to ensure against leaks.

Usually the width of my boat is about 1.2 m in the center, in the stern area it is 80 centimeters. I make the stern wide - two men can sit comfortably. In addition, a punt of this configuration is more stable and quite maneuverable, but I still always use two oars - with one oar, try to turn around somewhere on the spot, in the same reeds!

Project, drawings, sketches and description of manufacturing technology
boats made from one sheet of plywood

I present to your attention project, sketches and description of the technology for making a boat from a single sheet of plywood. The design and technology were developed by me based on the experience of building and operating more than 50 similar boats. If you do as written, avoiding long smoke breaks, then you can build this boat in two weeks, or even faster. In general, this is a fishing boat for the “not rich Pinocchio”, who also does not have the experience of a master carpenter for which his dad Carlo was famous. The cost of basic materials (a sheet of plywood measuring 3x1.5 m; slats, paint and epoxy) was only 625 rubles.

Basic materials needed to build a boat:

coin (no matter what denomination or what country);
waterproof plywood brand FSF - 1 sheet measuring 1500x3000 mm and thickness 4 mm;
slats for sides: 3-meter with a section of 10x40 mm - 4 pieces;
meter section 25x50 mm - 2 pieces;
slats for the bottom: 2.5-meter with a section of 20x40...50 mm - 2 pieces;
90-centimeter sections 10x40 mm - 6 pieces;
boards: semi-bulkhead - stop for a can (dimensions 1200x125x15 mm) - 1 piece;
jar (dimensions 1200x250x25 mm) - 1 piece;
transom trim (dimensions 1000x140x20 mm) - 1 piece;
support for the rower's feet (dimensions 1000x50x25 mm) - 1 piece;
epoxy glue - 5 kg;
dye;
fiberglass - 3 m (with a width of 0.9 m);
copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, nails, screws.

Tools: saw, drill with drills, clamps, plane, emery cloth.

P.S. It is necessary to purchase oarlocks (Fig. 1). I make these myself from stainless steel. So far there have been no complaints about their quality.

Technology for building a boat from one sheet of plywood

I want to say right away that we will build a boat with flat bottom. This design is simpler and more reliable.

1. Take a sheet of plywood and mark the bilge line and part of the transom of one starboard side according to the sketch using a strip (line ABC in Fig. 2). You can hammer nails into the “reference” points. The dimensions are given in millimeters out of habit; they could also be given in centimeters. Yes, and dimensional accuracy is not particularly needed here. A little more or less... The main thing is that the bottom pattern is symmetrical.

2. We cut out part of the transom and the right cheekbone along line ABC (see Fig. 2).

3. We place the resulting trimmed part (in Fig. 2 - the right side) on the left side, fasten the latter there with clamps or nails so that it does not move, and with its help, as if using a template, we mark the bottom separately and the transom separately. In this case, the symmetry of the bottom and transom will be fully observed. Note that as a result of the cutting operations carried out, we were left with two pieces from the plywood sheet, which will be used to make the sides, and the transom.

4. Along the edge of the stern, bottom and the corresponding edge of the transom, we drill holes with a diameter of 1.6 mm every 150 mm.

5. We fasten the transom to the bottom with wire (using holes).

6. Place the bottom on a stool and three chairs (Fig. 3). Using classical techniques and classical literature(“Queen Margot”, “War and Peace”) we create the required bottom deflection of 100 mm and the desired transom inclination. (It is good to place slats under the bottom, which will then go on the sides, especially if the plywood is 4 mm thick).

7. On one of the remaining pieces of plywood we mark the contours of the side, taking into account the inclination of the transom. To do this, the blank for the side is pressed against the cheekbone of the bottom. For convenience, you can drill holes in the top of the transom and screw the workpiece to it with wire, but still, to mark the side you will need an assistant who will hold bow blanks for the future side, and draw with a pencil the remaining line of contact between the blank and the bottom and the line of the stem.

8. We cut out the side, and then, using it as a template, we cut out the other side. We remove the resulting irregularities with a plane or, better yet, with a coarser piece of sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block. They try to make the sides as identical as possible.

9. Along the edges of the bottom and the corresponding edges of the sides, drill holes with a pitch of 150 mm, coat the boat with an anti-rotting liquid, for example, “Senezh”, which will significantly increase the service life of the boat, especially if the plywood is birch, and sew the boat together copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm. We form the twists from the outside. Please note that when docking with the bottom, the side is placed on the bottom. The transom is also placed on the bottom and placed inside the sides.

10. We upset and tap the wire of the paper clips with a hammer.

11. We insert the can and the bulkhead, temporarily securing them with screws, and glue the strips along the sides. Short strips, in the middle of which there will be holes for oarlocks, are pre-cut on the side and glued between the inner side rail and the plywood side. The center of the hole for the oarlocks is 300 mm away from the can (seat). We glue the brackets (the structural elements of the ship's hull for connecting individual parts housings located at an angle to one another), fixing them temporarily with clamps, nails or screws on the “Flies”. “Fly” or “Crusk” is a wooden or plywood washer of any shape for a temporary nail (screw) to make it easier to remove later.

12. We glue the joints of the bottom and sides from the inside with fiberglass in three layers. In this case, the width of the inner strip is 25 mm, the middle one is 40 mm, and the outer (top) strip is 50 mm. Before gluing these joints on the outside, the paper clips should be bitten off. Using a plane and sandpaper we smooth out the unevenness and round the cheekbone from the outside. We drill holes in the brackets so that an anchor rope, mooring line, fish tank, etc. can be tied to the ends. We finally glue the can, and attach a coin “for good luck” to the bottom with glue. Although I don’t believe in omens, I noticed that the “coin” helps even those who don’t believe it. We glue the stop and strips under the legs and on the bottom to protect the paint and, accordingly, the plywood from scuffs and getting wet. We place these strips across the inside of the body, and along the outside.

13. Cut and glue the board onto the transom.

14. We hammer dowels into all the holes left from the “temporary” screws and nails ( wooden nails), lubricated with epoxy. When the epoxy has hardened, the excess is cut off, and the location of the dowel is puttied and cleaned. It is better to paint the boat with pentaphthalic paint for external surfaces. Just check if the anti-rot liquid used is compatible with this paint. In general, it is useful to read what is written on the paint can.

15. The distance from the edge of the can to the hole for the oarlock, as already mentioned, is 30 cm. We drill a hole with a diameter of 17 mm in a thick rail. If you don’t have a drill with a diameter of 17 mm, then you can drill a hole of a smaller diameter, and then widen it with some suitable piece of hardware. A stainless steel or brass tube of suitable diameter (aluminum will quickly wear off, iron will rust) approximately 70 mm long with a wall thickness of at least 1.5 mm is inserted into the resulting hole. Before inserting the tube into the hole, it is wrapped with fiberglass soaked in epoxy. The top of the tube is recessed flush with the side so that the fishing line or net does not cling to it. If the tube is larger in diameter than necessary, the inner rail will have to be thicker. It is desirable that these tubes be the only metal parts in the entire structure (not counting, of course, paper clips). You can raise the subkey higher with the help of a “pillow” - a block 30...40 mm thick, which will have to be glued to the gunwale and secured with dowels. Then the tube should be taken in a straight line. It will be more convenient to row, but those who use nets claim that such a “cushion” gets in the way.

Oars. There are many options for making oars. They are made from solid boards, slats, and pipes. English boatbuilders recommend assembling an oar spindle from 14 slats of ash grown on open area southern slope, and only slats cut only from the northern part of the trunk are suitable! I got a result that satisfied me by making a spindle and oar handle from a 2-meter beam with a section of 50x50 mm. True, the same beam, but glued from an inch board, turned out to be better. As a blade, I inserted plywood measuring 400x200 mm and 6 mm thick into the spindle slot. At the blade, the spindle is extended to a diameter of 35 mm. In front of the handle I left the section square. It is easier to control an oar if the center of gravity of the oar is closer to the oarlock. Sometimes lead is even put into the handles for this purpose. The paddle is 220 cm long, the blade is secured in the slot with glue and two homemade (made from wire with a diameter of 4 mm) aluminum rivets. Do not make oars shorter than 2 m, as it will be very difficult to row against the wind and current with such oars. You can buy oars, I came across oars with plastic blades in a store, but they cost 750 rubles, and the materials for the whole boat were only 625 rubles.

P.S. Don't forget to glue the coin.

What and why can be changed when building a boat

Bottom. If you swim not far, there are no waves on the pond, and every cm of sediment matters; the bottom can generally be made straight (without curvature). But on such a boat, the stern will begin to pull water along with it and rowing will be difficult. In this case, it is better to make the bottom of a 120 cm wide boat wider (about 1 m) with a transom width of 80 cm.

If you have to wade through the reeds, you can make the bottom narrower, but if its width is less than 70 cm, you won’t be able to shoot and you will have to cast the spinning rod carefully. Especially if the water is cold!

For those interested build yourself a boat from one sheet of plywood, shaped like ordinary wooden keelboat , in Fig. Figure 4 shows the design of the “keel”, which is formed when the bottom is formed from two plywood blanks connected at an angle of 100°...120°.

Nose. If the bow of the boat is made rectangular, like the “optimist”, its carrying capacity and stability will increase. Three people can swim on it if you behave carefully. But rowing against the waves and wind, and also making your way through the reeds will be more difficult. You will also need to find a piece of plywood or a plank for the bow, which will also increase the weight of the boat.

Motor. If the transom is reinforced, you can also hang a 5 hp motor on it. s., but it is much safer to use a motor with a power of no more than 2 liters. With. or the Snetok electric motor, for example. But again, this is additional weight.

Feed can. A permanent stern bank, of course, will increase the weight of the boat, but after a long rowing and fishing, every extra gram of the boat seems like a kilogram. You can store some things in jars in the form of boxes, but remember, in order to get something from there, you need to get up from the jar, and this is not always safe.

Keel. A similar fin at the stern of the boat (its dimensions: length 1 m, height 7 cm, thickness 25 mm) will help, especially for an inexperienced rower, to keep the boat on course, but will be a hindrance when the boat moves away from the shore with a sandbank. Actually, I advise you to make a keel, but if it gets in the way, then the plane has already been invented, but I don’t advise you to make a keel with an axe.

Sail. For our boat, a sail, rudder and centerboard from an “optimist” are quite acceptable. The result will be a small “Ochakovskaya scow”.

However, when starting to modernize a boat, remember that any improvements and adaptations entail a whole load of problems and additional materials. Maybe it will be easier to find a design for another boat. On the website, for example, there are a lot of them, and. The advantages of this project: minimal cost and labor intensity, absence of special requirements for the qualifications of the craftsman, and very satisfactory (!) consumer qualities of the boat.

What and with what can be replaced when building a boat

Plywood of the FSF brand will completely replace plywood of the FK brand, only the latter, after gluing, will have to be oiled with hot linseed oil and painted over more thoroughly. There are examples where, with careful care, boats made of such plywood served for many years. If there is no wood for slats coniferous species, then wood is quite suitable for such purposes hardwood. After all, you don’t have to go around Cape Horn, and in a few years, maybe even the birch slats won’t rot. Remember, they are made from soft aspen and poplar, but they serve for many years. True, from hardwood it is better to take ash (slats) and linden (planks).

If there is no plywood the right size, one or another can be assembled from separate pieces. In this case, options are possible. For example, if the length of the bottom turns out to be shorter than required by only 20 cm, and your own weight is less than 90 kg, you can limit yourself to this length. I note that there is no need to tuck the edges of the plywood to be joined; it is easier and more reliable to simply glue them end to end. WITH inside on the joint, you will need to put a strip 10...15 mm thick and 5...7 cm wide, and a strip of fiberglass on the outside. Next, the joint is sewn together with wire, and if there is no wire, you can use thread or twine (preferably synthetic). Holes for the wire can be drilled or made with a triangular awl, for example. And if you get holes with a diameter of not 1.6 mm, but larger, it’s okay, the epoxy will seal them up anyway.

What can you save on?

If there is a shortage of fiberglass, strips of it can be cut narrower, but still at least 3 cm wide, and two layers will allow you to reliably seal the joint. If necessary, epoxy will be completely replaced by any waterproof glue, but at the same time, at the bottom along the cheekbone, you will need to glue a strip with a cross-section of 30x25 mm and organize the fastening of the bottom with the sides on screws, placing the latter in increments of 100...150 mm. In this case, the rail is first glued to the side (with a protrusion of about 5 mm over the edge), and then “removed”, that is, it is pulled through to fit tightly to the bottom.

The slats can be attached to the sides without glue (only with nails or screws, after having coated them with paint). But then you will have to increase the cross-sectional dimensions of the slats by about a third, and the size of the booklets - by two times, cutting them out of boards at least 30 mm thick (it is known that a glued part works as one whole, and from knocked together parts, like collective farmers on a collective farm ( seems to be together, eh...).

Good sub-keys can also be made from a steel tube, which will need to be welded to the bar and screwed with M8 bolts. If there are tubes of too large a diameter, then inserts from plastic bottles. With such liners, the rowlocks do not creak, and it seems to me that even rowing becomes easier with them. The diameter of the oarlock axles should not be greater than 12 mm, and less than 10 mm is somehow not entirely practical.

Plywood (if the required format is not available), as already mentioned, can be joined without pressing, but simply end-to-end, placing one strip of fiberglass on the outside and a 20x50 mm strip on the inside.

Mistakes when building a boat

If your weight is 90 kg or more, the slats provided for in the project will not hold the bottom. It will bend downwards under your feet, and bend upwards with water (the draft has increased). The service life of the boat will decrease quite significantly, so in this case you will have to use thicker plywood for the bottom (at least 6 mm). Or you will need to glue transverse slats (flora) with a cross-section of at least 20x50 mm to the bottom. Such slats are glued with an edge in increments of 30 cm. Although one of my friends (net weight - 105 kg) two years ago, having taken a boat from me, vowed to go on a diet and lose weight to 80 kg. I lied, of course. However, the boat still serves, but he rarely fishes.

It is clear that when marking the bottom and sides, it is impossible to lay the rail - bend it equally, using only three starting points. Therefore, to prevent the boat from turning out crooked, follow the proposed cutting technology. Of course, a crooked boat will also float on the water, but...!

Using nails when building a boat is faster and cheaper, and with the help of screws the work can be done more accurately, if you do not forget to drill a hole for each screw and lubricate the screw itself with some kind of oil (even vegetable oil). Otherwise, you won’t be able to unscrew this screw later. When attaching slats to fix them in the desired position, it is advisable to use at least two clamps, for example, from a regular meat grinder. After all, it’s difficult to hold the slats with your hands properly. To fasten the planks, it is better to take larger screws 20...25 mm long with a semicircular head for a flat-blade screwdriver. And place “flies” or metal washers under them.

They begin to fasten the slats from any selected point, subsequently acting in one direction (it seems to me that it is more convenient to begin fastening the outer slats from the middle, and the inner slats from the transom). In this case, nails (screws) are installed in a row, since otherwise “bubbles” may result. And so that the boat does not turn out to be crooked, when attaching symmetrical slats to the sides, nails are hammered alternately into the slats on one side, then into the slats on the other.

You cannot “save” epoxy by applying too much epoxy to the surfaces to be bonded. thin layer resin. In this case, the epoxy will simply be absorbed into the wood and nothing will remain on the adhesive layer. Let me remind you that the approximate consumption of resin should be about 200 g per 3-meter strip or strip of fiberglass of the same length. Epoxy is applied with a brush or spatula; if, after compressing the parts to be glued, excess resin is squeezed out, then everything is correct. By the way, if you hurry, you can use the “excess” resin to glue the seams, apply it to the body instead of varnish, and fill the holes from knots. Based on own experience, I can say that usually it is not possible to use more than 200 g of resin at a time (and this despite the fact that everything is ready for assembly). In a word, hurry up! Otherwise the resin will harden or boil. In the summer, in the sun, the resin in a jar hardens or even boils in a few minutes. Especially ED-16. On the standard packaging of epoxy it is written that you need to work with it with gloves, so don’t skimp on them. Well, if you don’t have gloves, then first lubricate your hands with oil, preferably vegetable oil, and sprinkle them with powder, for example, talcum powder or flour, so as not to stain the parts being glued with greasy hands. Or you can simply soap your hands and then let the soap dry. It is also better to wipe your hands from resin using vegetable oil and rags, and almost any solvents are suitable for this (acetone, 646, solvent). Gloves will also last longer if you soap them, dry them, and wash them with soap and water after work.

Your safety when building the boat and then!

Protect your face and eyes from the resin, and most importantly, from the hardener. As you know, there are different types of hardeners, but the ones I came across included cyanide. I hope it's about properties potassium cyanide heard everything.

Plywood, of course, does not sink, but its buoyancy reserve is minimal, and it is clear that a boat filled with water will not keep you afloat with its load. So it is useful to have pieces of foam or plastic bottles with a capacity of at least 10/7. It is best to place them under the can on the bow side in a bag that should be securely tied to the boat - lifeboats used to have sealed tanks (made of galvanized sheet) with air under the seats. In the stern it is good to have a foam plate 5...10 cm thick and 40x50 cm in size as a seat for a passenger, and also for buoyancy. And it’s convenient to put something on it that requires a dry place. You can make the jar lower, for example, 100 mm high, which will allow you to sit higher in good weather by placing the same foam plate on the jar (on which, by the way, it’s warmer to sit). To prevent the foam from crumbling, sew a bag for the stove from an old shirt. The bag with this plate must be tied to the jar. And it is more convenient to tie the stern plate to the footrest.

The distance from the edge of the can to the footrest is average and is 70 cm, but it is wiser to glue the footrest at a distance that is convenient for you.

Remember also that the boat is twice as heavy as you, and it is very easy to turn it over if handled carelessly. In fact, the boat is quite stable, so over time there is a feeling that it is not able to capsize at all. However, this is not at all true.

Fiberglass fabric is impregnated (oiled) at the manufacturer to prevent glass dust from flying off it. Therefore, in order to glue it more reliably, the fabric must be degreased, which I do using an electric hot plate with an open spiral. I warm the fabric until the smoke stops coming out. You can also burn the fabric in the oven. electric stove, but there will be smoke in the kitchen! There is no need to anneal special shipbuilding fabric; the composition with which it is impregnated does not interfere with adhesion, but you are unlikely to get it. Just in case, I’ll tell you the brand of this fabric - T-11-GVS-9.

A fishing boat is a small boat that allows you to fish in a quiet, cozy place remote from the shore, store and transport fishing gear and equipment, and, if necessary, transport cargo. Many fans of fishing prefer products made from natural material, for example from wood. They are bought ready-made, ordered, or made by hand.

Brief instructions on how to make a wooden boat will help a fisherman who knows how to use carpentry tools to make it himself.

Wooden boats have the following advantages:

made from environmentally friendly pure materials(usually from softwood logs);
light weight;
durability and reliability afloat;
maneuverability;
buoyancy;
noiselessness;
possibility of installing an outboard or stationary motor, sails, use with oars;
long service life if properly stored;
low cost compared to other devices.

There are 2 types of wooden boats:

oblique, or keeled;
flat-bottomed.

Punts are in great demand among fishing fans. They are convenient and comfortable; gear and accessories are located near the fisherman. The boats are highly stable and safe, they turn freely on the pond and do not capsize.

Skewed boats with a keel bottom have better maneuverability in difficult places, are distinguished by speed and practicality. In order not to scoop up water over the side, you need to learn how to correctly distribute the center of gravity.

Buy or make it yourself

Wooden boats are rare on the domestic market. More often they are made to order by craftsmen. The work is completed within 4-5 days, sometimes faster. Price vehicle will be determined depending on what length and width you want the boat to be: it can be made single or multi-seat. Before ordering a vessel self made receive information about the artist, look at previous products, and communicate with other clients.

If the process of manufacturing wooden boats is carried out on your own, it is possible to reduce financial costs. In addition, you can get great pleasure from the work done.

Manufacturing process

The construction of a fishing boat consists of 5 stages, these are:

Design of the structure.
Preparation necessary materials(boards, tools).
Manufacturing and assembly.
Boat tarring or caulking.
Conducting tests.

Drawings

Getting started self-production, it is better to purchase special literature on the topic of how to build a wooden boat, study the main components, design diagrams and drawings. Experts recommend making patterns on sheets of paper or using 3D modeling programs. The structure is divided into subassemblies and units. Details from the drawings must be readable, designations and dimensions must be shown, and the scale must be maintained.

Based on the parameters of the main parts of the boat, the amount of material required is calculated.

Materials and tools

To work, you will need to purchase wide and long spruce or pine boards. Cracks, burrs, and knots are not allowed.

Some craftsmen advise purchasing logs earlier, then laying them on a dry flat surface under pressure for a while to avoid deformation

List of required tools:

Roulette.
Ruler.
Square.
Plane.
Screwdriver.
Fastening elements (self-tapping screws, screws, nails or screws).
Hammer.
Chisel.
Jigsaw.
Hammer.
Bulgarian.
Clamping vice.

List of materials that will be required for work:

Putty.
Oil paints.
Oil varnish or drying oil.
Antiseptic.
Glue.

Do not forget about safety measures during the manufacture of the structure. For this purpose, use protective plastic glasses and comfortable, well-fitting gloves.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

A wooden boat consists of the following parts:

Rear side.

To make the nose part, the following operations are performed:

Take boards without defects and measure the length according to the calculated dimensions.
The edge is sawed off at 45° and planed.
A chamfer is removed near the sawn edges. When pressing the boards, there should be no gap between them.
The ends are coated with a protective antiseptic substance.
The base of the bow is made of triangular timber, taking into account that the length should be 1.5 times the height of the vessel. The timber is planed and treated with an antiseptic.
2 sides and a base are assembled, lubricated with wood glue and fastened with nails or screws.
All excess protrusions are cut off.

Algorithm of actions for building a tailgate:

Choose a board 5 cm thick.
The sides are made from boards. A margin is left at the top and bottom for subsequent processing.
Stiffening ribs are inserted between the structures according to the boat diagram with your own hands. Their length is equal to the width of the craft, their height is similar to the height of the sides, otherwise the side elements will burst when bent.
To bend the sides you will need 2 assistants. The edges of the side boards are attached to the stern; at this time, assistants carefully bend the side parts using a rope. Marks are made where the chamfer needs to be removed so that there are no gaps. Then they chamfer the marks, try them on and adjust them.
The joints are treated with an antiseptic and connected with glue, screws or self-tapping screws.
Excess material in the lower part of the stern is sawed off and the top is formed.
In wooden boats, holes are made with a drill for the engine on the rear side, seats and permanent spacers in the sides. Then the jumpers and seats are installed. The engine is attached after assembling the entire structure.

To create a bottom in a wooden boat, use a galvanized sheet fits better everything. The frame is placed on it with the bottom down, outlined with a pencil with a margin of 1.5 cm and cut out with a special tool. Then the craft is turned over, chamfered from the side parts and spacers adjacent to the bottom, and treated with an antiseptic.

After the impregnation has dried, silicone sealant is applied from below, tow or wire threads are placed on it in 2 rows to prevent leakage.

After leveling metal blank The bottom is attached with self-tapping screws to the press washer; you can use nails, moving from the center of the vessel to the edges. In areas with metal protrusions of more than 5 cm, trim and bend the sheet to the sides, tapping with a hammer along the entire perimeter. Sheet metal is mounted to the bow to protect against corrosion.

A mooring beam is glued along the sides along the upper edge, protecting it from damage when mooring to berths and other vessels. The keel, which ensures safety when turning, especially in devices with motors, is mounted to the bottom and placed along the centerline. It can be made from several slats.

After complete assembly the structure must be tarred or caulked, then painted. Resin treatment occurs only inside the vessel. This requires heated resin. To improve viscosity add a little machine oil. The resin is poured into all cracks, previously cleaned of dirt, and left to dry for 12 hours. Then it is treated with drying oil. Painting is done after the product is completely dry.

Final testing of the boat

The final step is to conduct leak tests. Testing is carried out both at home and in the pond. If it is possible to install a boat on a support on the territory of a private house, it is turned over and flooded a large number water from the hose, then set to its original position and checked for leaks.

When testing on a river or pond, you should not swim to great depths for about 1 hour. After a control check and there is no water in the fishing boat, it is ready for operation.

Before you start building a wooden boat, you need to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the smoothest, longest, wide enough boards that are made of spruce or pine.

Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. The boards for this part of the boat must remain in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.

Choosing boards for work

Before production begins, it is necessary to once again ensure that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board you need to measure the required length and carefully cut them at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.

After this, you need to plan them and check that the boards connected to each other do not have any gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.

The next step is to prepare the bow of the boat, using a triangular block. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The timber is also planed and covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to select a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the supply, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to search and start all over again.

Boat assembly

When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to begin assembling the product. You should start from the bow. Both sides and the triangular block must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to immediately cut off the protrusions at the top and bottom so that they do not interfere in the future.

The next step is very important and responsible, since it is necessary to give the future boat its shape. You need to decide on the width of the boat and place a spacer in the middle. Choose a board for the spacer that is the same size as the height of the boat, so the sides will not burst.

Once the brace is properly installed, you can begin to shape the boat, call a few people to help or stock up on ropes to hold the structure in place.

Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern to make the boat so that when connected back wall and there were no gaps or cracks left on the sides.

When the backdrop is installed, cut it off the extra part below, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next we work on the spacers, which will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats, which are installed on top of the spacers. You can determine the number, as well as the location of these elements yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.

We align everything on the bottom in one plane and process protective layer the entire surface. When the glue dries, start making the bottom of the boat.

The best option for the bottom would be a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find a sheet that matches the size of the boat.

How to make the bottom of a boat with your own hands

Put future boat onto a sheet of metal and trace its borders with a marker, do not forget to take a few centimeters extra just in case, the excess can always be trimmed.

The next step is to cover the connection between the boat and its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it has dried, a cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary to ensure that the bottom of the boat is airtight and does not let water inside.

When this process is completed, we move on to connecting the bottom to the frame. Carefully place the bottom of the boat on top of it. bottom part. Use nails or screws to connect.

Start connecting from the middle and move towards the edges of the boat. Do the work as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.

We cut off the excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the bow of the boat from external factors using the same metal. Cut a rectangle of tin to the size of the boat.

Wherever wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to go through with sealant and lace. By this time, before you start “wrapping” the bow with metal, you need to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.

Be sure to make a fastening on the bow for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, since it will attract attention on a body of water. special attention due to its novelty.

Before you build a boat, think through and look at all the ideas that you can use to make a boat. Perhaps you will choose a special material for yourself that will be more convenient for you to work with, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.

Don't forget to cover the bottom with reverse side special paint, since galvanized metal is destroyed over time when in contact with water. The wooden parts of the boat must be coated with several layers of special impregnation and the boat must be left to dry in the shade.

For convenience, inside the boat on its bottom you can lay out wood flooring. This way the bottom will not rattle when you move along it.

At this point the boat will be ready. Read more articles on how to make the best homemade boats with a description in order to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future buildings.