How to choose a membrane for the roof and install it yourself. Types of construction membrane films

Membrane roofing is a modern and, perhaps, the most advanced solution for installing a soft roof. The combination of reliability, increased resistance to climatic and atmospheric influences, elasticity, ability to preserve quality characteristics within a wide temperature range puts this material among the most advanced and high-quality.

Usage polymer membranes when installing soft roofs, this is already a guarantee of the quality of the coating and its durability. Repair of membrane roofing subject to the right technology Laying the coating is required much less frequently than with other materials. Its maintenance-free service life ranges from 30 to 60 years.

The biggest advantage of such roofs is considered to be resistance to extreme temperatures, which allows the membrane to be used in a wide variety of conditions.

What types of membranes are there?

The roofing membrane is a film polymer material. It is quite difficult to name its exact composition, since the components may not be the same from different manufacturers. To obtain higher quality samples, it includes modified bitumen, fiberglass, various plasticizers, and more.

Today the market offers three ways to install such a roof:

– it is based on plasticized PVC, reinforced with polyester mesh for strength. Its plasticity is provided by volatile plasticizers; this is about 40% of the composition. by welding the sheets with hot air into a single sheet. Work is performed using special equipment. It is resistant to UV radiation and fire. However, bright colors fade somewhat over time, and the material is not resistant to oils, bituminous materials and solvents. One more negative factor is the release of volatile compounds into the atmosphere by the fabric.

TPO – the base is made up of thermoplastic olefins, which are reinforced with either glass fiber or polyester (unreinforced products are also available). Due to the absence of volatile plasticizers in the composition, it is not so elastic, which makes installation difficult. It, as in the case of polyvinyl chloride, is performed by welding the sheets with hot air. The service life of the resulting coating reaches 60 years, it is characterized by great strength and reliability even with low temperatures. Installation can also be carried out in winter.

EPDM – the synthetic rubber underlying it is reinforced with polyester mesh for strength. The product is characterized by the highest elasticity and relatively low price. mainly on glue, and although it provides sufficient strength to the connection of the EPDM coating, the joining seams nevertheless remain “problematic” in terms of water leakage.

Advantages of membrane coatings

• Durability. The service life is about 60 years.
• High installation speed, since the coating is laid in one layer - work productivity is approximately 600 m 2 /shift.
• The ability to choose the width of the rolls allows you to cover roofs of various configurations, with the least number of joints.
• High-quality and uniform seam, which is ensured by hot air welding.
• High elasticity, frost resistance, UV resistance, operational and chemical resistance.
• High fire safety class - up to G-1.
• Exceptional lightness of the coating, which does not additionally overload the supporting structures.
• The technical characteristics of polymer membranes make it possible to install them all year round without changing technology.

With so many advantages, the only inconvenience of membrane coating is its price. They cost one and a half to two times more than their competitors.

Roofing methods

Depending on the roof structure, installation is performed in one of three ways.

Mechanical – used for roofs with a large angle of inclination. Fastening is carried out using special fasteners, and the joints are hermetically sealed with special equipment.

Ballast– suitable for roofs with a slope of less than 10⁰. Ballast can be, say, crushed stone.

Adhesive– used for roofs of buildings located in areas of high wind loads. The canvas is simply glued to the plane.

How to repair a membrane coating

Although over the entire service life the membrane shrinks within 0.5%, however, this may be enough to cause stress and depressurization in seam joints. The coating can be significantly damaged when performing all kinds of work, installation on the roof additional equipment or when carelessly clearing the roof of snow and ice.

To repair seams or repair minor damage, it is, of course, not economically feasible to rent special equipment. Moreover, old membranes partially lose their elasticity, so they weld much worse. The cost of welding work increases by 20-25%.

The ideal solution for such cases are modern repair technologies EternaBond, which provide a strong connection of homogeneous membranes. This technology is based on chemical stimulation of adhesion, which ensures the solidity of the adhesive joint, that is, not only tightness, but also exceptional strength of the seam. Externally, it is a rolled tape, on which an adhesive layer is applied on one side - it enters into an active reaction with the structure of the membrane.

The restored fragment can serve at any temperature for up to 30 years.

I would like to warn you right away that this topic is not entirely on the subject of Habr, but in the comments to the post about the element developed at MIT, the idea seemed to be supported, so below I will describe some thoughts about biofuel elements.
The work on which this topic is written was done by me in 11th grade, and took second place at the international conference INTEL ISEF.

A fuel cell is a chemical current source in which the chemical energy of a reducing agent (fuel) and an oxidizing agent, continuously and separately supplied to the electrodes, is directly converted into electrical energy
energy. Schematic diagram fuel cell (FC) is presented below:

The fuel cell consists of an anode, cathode, ionic conductor, anode and cathode chambers. On this moment power bio fuel cells not enough for use on an industrial scale, but BFCs with low power can be used for medical purposes as sensitive sensors since the current strength in them is proportional to the amount of fuel processed.
To date it has been proposed big number design varieties of fuel cells. In each specific case, the design of the fuel cell depends on the purpose of the fuel cell, the type of reagent and the ionic conductor. A special group includes biofuel cells that use biological catalysts. Important distinctive feature biological systems is their ability to selectively oxidize various fuels at low temperatures.
In most cases, immobilized enzymes are used in bioelectrocatalysis, i.e. enzymes isolated from living organisms and fixed to a carrier, but retaining catalytic activity (partially or completely), which allows them to be reused. Let us consider the example of a biofuel cell in which an enzymatic reaction is coupled with an electrode reaction using a mediator. Scheme of a biofuel cell based on glucose oxidase:

A biofuel cell consists of two inert electrodes made of gold, platinum or carbon, immersed in a buffer solution. The electrodes are separated by an ion exchange membrane: the anode compartment is purged with air, the cathode compartment with nitrogen. The membrane allows spatial separation of the reactions occurring in the electrode compartments of the cell, and at the same time ensures the exchange of protons between them. Membranes suitable for biosensors different types are produced in the UK by many companies (VDN, VIROKT).
The introduction of glucose into a biofuel cell containing glucose oxidase and a soluble mediator at 20 °C results in a flow of electrons from the enzyme to the anode through the mediator. Through the external circuit, electrons go to the cathode, where ideal conditions in the presence of protons and oxygen, water is formed. The resulting current (in the absence of saturation) is proportional to the addition of the rate-determining component (glucose). By measuring stationary currents, you can quickly (5 s) determine even low concentrations of glucose - up to 0.1 mM. As a sensor, the described biofuel cell has certain limitations associated with the presence of a mediator and certain requirements for the oxygen cathode and membrane. The latter must retain the enzyme and at the same time allow low molecular weight components to pass through: gas, mediator, substrate. Ion exchange membranes generally satisfy these requirements, although their diffusion properties depend on the pH of the buffer solution. Diffusion of components through the membrane leads to a decrease in the efficiency of electron transfer due to side reactions.
Today, there are laboratory models of fuel cells with enzyme catalysts, which in their characteristics do not meet the requirements of their practical application. The main efforts in the next few years will be aimed at refining biofuel cells and further applications of the biofuel cell will be more related to medicine, for example: an implantable biofuel cell using oxygen and glucose.
When using enzymes in electrocatalysis main problem, which requires a solution, is the problem of coupling the enzymatic reaction with the electrochemical one, that is, ensuring effective electron transport with active center enzyme onto the electrode, which can be achieved in the following ways:
1. Transfer of electrons from the active center of the enzyme to the electrode using a low-molecular carrier - mediator (mediator bioelectrocatalysis).
2. Direct, direct oxidation and reduction of active sites of the enzyme on the electrode (direct bioelectrocatalysis).
In this case, the mediator coupling of the enzymatic and electrochemical reactions, in turn, can be carried out in four ways:
1) the enzyme and mediator are in the bulk of the solution and the mediator diffuses to the surface of the electrode;
2) the enzyme is on the surface of the electrode, and the mediator is in the volume of the solution;
3) the enzyme and mediator are immobilized on the surface of the electrode;
4) the mediator is sewn to the surface of the electrode, and the enzyme is in solution.

In this work, laccase served as a catalyst for the cathodic reaction of oxygen reduction, and glucose oxidase (GOD) served as a catalyst for the anodic reaction of glucose oxidation. Enzymes have been used in composite materials, the creation of which is one of the most important stages creation of biofuel elements that simultaneously perform the function of an analytical sensor. In this case, biocomposite materials must provide selectivity and sensitivity for determining the substrate and at the same time have high bioelectrocatalytic activity, approaching enzymatic activity.
Laccase is a Cu-containing oxidoreductase, the main function of which under native conditions is the oxidation of organic substrates (phenols and their derivatives) with oxygen, which is then reduced to water. The molecular weight of the enzyme is 40,000 g/mol.

To date, it has been shown that laccase is the most active electrocatalyst for oxygen reduction. In its presence on the electrode in an oxygen atmosphere, a potential close to the equilibrium oxygen potential is established, and oxygen reduction proceeds directly to water.
A composite material based on laccase, acetylene black AD-100 and Nafion was used as a catalyst for the cathodic reaction (oxygen reduction). A special feature of the composite is its structure, which ensures the orientation of the enzyme molecule relative to the electron-conducting matrix, necessary for direct electron transfer. The specific bioelectrocatalytic activity of laccase in the composite approaches that observed in enzymatic catalysis. The method of coupling the enzymatic and electrochemical reactions in the case of laccase, i.e. a method of transferring an electron from a substrate through the active center of the laccase enzyme to an electrode - direct bielectrocatalysis.

Glucose oxidase (GOD) is an enzyme of the oxidoreductase class, has two subunits, each of which has its own active center - (flavin adenine dinucleotide) FAD. GOD is an enzyme selective for the electron donor, glucose, and can use many substrates as electron acceptors. The molecular weight of the enzyme is 180,000 g/mol.

In this work, we used a composite material based on GOD and ferrocene (FC) for the anodic oxidation of glucose via a mediator mechanism. The composite material includes GOD, highly dispersed colloidal graphite (HCG), Fc and Nafion, which made it possible to obtain an electron-conducting matrix with a highly developed surface, ensure efficient transport of reagents into the reaction zone and stable characteristics composite material. A method of coupling enzymatic and electrochemical reactions, i.e. ensuring efficient transport of electrons from the active center of GOD to the mediator electrode, while the enzyme and mediator were immobilized on the surface of the electrode. Ferrocene was used as a mediator - electron acceptor. When an organic substrate, glucose, is oxidized, ferrocene is reduced and then oxidized at the electrode.

If anyone is interested, I can describe in detail the process of obtaining electrode coating, but for this it is better to write in a personal message. And in the topic I will simply describe the resulting structure.

1. AD-100.
2. laccase.
3. hydrophobic porous substrate.
4. Nafion.

After the electors were received, we moved directly to the experimental part. This is what our work cell looked like:

1. Ag/AgCl reference electrode;
2. working electrode;
3. auxiliary electrode - Рt.
In the experiment with glucose oxidase - purging with argon, with laccase - with oxygen.

The reduction of oxygen on soot in the absence of laccase occurs at potentials below zero and occurs in two stages: through the intermediate formation of hydrogen peroxide. The figure shows the polarization curve of the electroreduction of oxygen by laccase immobilized on AD-100, obtained in an oxygen atmosphere in a solution with pH 4.5. Under these conditions, a stationary potential is established close to the equilibrium oxygen potential (0.76 V). At cathodic potentials of 0.76 V, catalytic reduction of oxygen is observed at the enzyme electrode, which proceeds through the mechanism of direct bioelectrocatalysis directly to water. In the potential region below 0.55 V cathode, a plateau is observed on the curve, which corresponds to the limiting kinetic current of oxygen reduction. The limiting current value was about 630 μA/cm2.

The electrochemical behavior of the composite material based on GOD Nafion, ferrocene and VKG was studied by cyclic voltammetry (CV). The state of the composite material in the absence of glucose in a phosphate buffer solution was monitored using charging curves. On the charging curve at a potential of (–0.40) V, maxima are observed related to the redox transformations of the active center of GOD - (FAD), and at 0.20-0.25 V there are maxima of oxidation and reduction of ferrocene.

From the results obtained, it follows that based on a cathode with laccase as a catalyst for the oxygen reaction, and an anode based on glucose oxidase for the oxidation of glucose, there is a fundamental possibility of creating a biofuel cell. True, there are many obstacles on this path, for example, peaks of enzyme activity are observed at different pH levels. This led to the need to add an ion exchange membrane to the BFC. The membrane allows for spatial separation of the reactions occurring in the electrode compartments of the cell, and at the same time ensures the exchange of protons between them. Air enters the anode compartment.
The introduction of glucose into a biofuel cell containing glucose oxidase and a mediator results in a flow of electrons from the enzyme to the anode through the mediator. The electrons travel through the external circuit to the cathode, where, under ideal conditions, water is formed in the presence of protons and oxygen. The resulting current (in the absence of saturation) is proportional to the addition of the rate-determining component, glucose. By measuring stationary currents, you can quickly (5 s) determine even low concentrations of glucose - up to 0.1 mM.

Unfortunately, I was not able to bring the idea of ​​this BFC to practical implementation, because Immediately after 11th grade, I went to study to become a programmer, which I still do diligently today. Thanks to everyone who completed it.

We will show you step by step the process of replacing a faulty accumulator membrane. When our accumulator failed, the space between the membrane and the housing filled with water. The purpose of the bottom flange is to hold the edges new membrane in the accumulator housing. When we unscrewed the flange, water flowed out of the housing.

Removing a faulty membrane

First, we carefully unscrew the bolts from the flange, remove the flange and wait for the water to drain.

Slightly loosening the edges of the membrane, remove the remaining water.

In this model of a hydraulic accumulator with a volume of 150 liters, membrane fastening is also provided in the upper part.

This is a threaded fitting with external thread. Carefully unscrew the nut from it and pull out the faulty membrane along with the threaded fitting through the hole in the lower part of the housing.

After removing the membrane there is nothing left in the housing, so at this stage it is recommended to clean it thoroughly inner surface housings.

The membrane is shaped like a pear. Please note that the new membrane must completely match the original. Don't buy cheap options with a different specification, it will end up being more expensive. Take an old membrane to the store as a sample or copy its specification from the plate on the accumulator body.

Helpful advice: it is advisable to wash the new membrane in a non-aggressive cleaning solution before use. We insert a threaded fitting into the membrane to secure it from above and slowly screw it into the hole in the membrane.

Installing a new membrane into the housing

We insert the new membrane into the accumulator housing through the lower hole in the housing.

We push the membrane to its protrusions at the bottom.

Now our task is to straighten the membrane inside the housing and get the threaded fitting into the hole in its upper part. For a larger model you can use special devices or tie a rope to the fitting in advance and pull it through the hole.

Screw the nut onto the threaded fitting.

Inside the fitting there is a recess for a hexagon. Use an adjustable wrench to slightly tighten the nut. If you do not plan to install control automation, a pressure gauge or an air release valve on the hydraulic accumulator, then the upper hole in the flange can be plugged with a metal cap suitable diameter. You can use fum tape or flax as a seal.

We wind 5-6 turns of fum tape and install the cap.

First we tighten it by hand, then tighten it with an adjustable wrench.

We install the lower pressure flange on the body. This flange secures the membrane to the body, pressing its edges. Install and tighten the bolts on the flange according to the same rules as for tightening the wheels of a car. Depending on the number of bolts, you can use a “criss-cross” or “star” pattern. We must try to install and tighten the bolts from opposite sides - this way we will achieve uniform pressure on the flange and membrane. When all the bolts are installed, tighten them one by one with a socket wrench.

Connecting the accumulator to the water supply system

We connect the hydraulic accumulator using a gasket and a union nut to the water supply system. There's a fair amount of hand effort involved here.

Before starting the accumulator, additional air pressure must be created. To do this, unscrew plastic cover from the nipple and connect the pump.

Using the pressure gauge, we monitor the increase in pressure in the tank. Typically, the accumulator plate indicates the amount of preliminary air pressure. In our case it is 1.5 bar.

If the value is not specified, set the pressure to 1.5 - 2 bar. After this, you can open the tap and supply water to the accumulator.

All rights to the video belong to: DoHow

One of the most difficult topics, which often baffles those who want to build frame house with your own hands - these are films and membranes, vapor barriers and thermal insulation frame house.

In a frame house, it is very important to correctly apply various films in their places and on the right side, otherwise the durability of your frame house will be greatly reduced, and living in it will be very uncomfortable.

What kind of films are used in a frame house?

Vapor barrier film

Vapor barrier in a frame house is needed in order to stop moisture coming from the house to the street through the insulation, that is, it is only installed FROM INSIDE Houses. Moisture occurs according to the laws of physics, since it is colder outside than inside.

Accordingly, if the outside of the room is warmer or the same temperature, then it is not necessary to install it (for example, between the first and second floors of one identical heated building). If we do not stop this moisture, the insulation will stop working and insulate our house, it will become completely wet. We remember that a frame house must have a thermos in order to be warm.

For the role of a vapor barrier, ordinary polyethylene film 200 microns thick (the thickest of those sold). The rest of the newfangled films, which are just a marketing product, are not necessary to use for vapor barrier in a frame house.

In addition, the usual plastic film easy to find and buy.

It must be remembered that the vapor barrier should be maximum hermetically sealed. If you need to make holes in it (for sockets, for the passage of ventilation pipes, etc.), then you need to seal these places with special tape or sealant (butyl rubber). Perfectionists also glue holes from any fasteners in the wall, I have not done this yet.

Where is vapor barrier film used?:
Within the walls of a frame house - from the inside
In the floor of a frame house (lower ceiling) - from the inside
In the ceiling of a frame house ( upper ceiling) - from the inside

Installation vapor barrier film Finns on video:

Membrane in a frame house

1. Waterproof, vapor-permeable membrane

This film is completely different in properties from the vapor barrier. She does not let in moisture from the outside of the house into the insulation and onto the wooden parts of the house, while releasing steam from the inside. Despite the fact that we covered the insulation from the inside with a vapor barrier, a little residual steam still passes into the insulation and we need to release this steam. For this purpose, the membrane and vapor permeable.

In addition, these membranes are usually windproof and at the same time protect the insulation from heat blowing out.

Where is hydro-windproof film used in a frame house?:

The walls of a frame house are outside (or under the counter-lattice under wooden facade or immediately under the siding using OSB-3)
In the floor of a frame house (lower ceiling) - below, under the insulation, so that the wind does not blow ()
In the ceiling of a frame house (upper ceiling) - on top of the insulation so that the insulation does not blow out (if it is ecowool or sawdust, etc. bulk insulation)

This film differs from the previous one in that it is cheaper, but can still protect the insulation from condensation(not from ten liters of water), and also release excess steam from it.

Where is anti-condensation film used?:
In a cold attic - under the counter-lattice, that is, from inside the cold attic.

Use films correctly, and your frame house will last a long time and make you happy! If you have any questions, ask, or you can immediately contact us to select a team for you.

Sometimes it’s much easier to hire trusted builders than to understand all the intricacies of building a house yourself, so get in touch.

13.03.2017

All today's pumping stations, operating in almost every private home, require water supply, which, in turn, includes two components. This is, first of all, a pump intended for pumping water, and a hydraulic accumulator that accumulates it and maintains the required pressure in the network. By the way, it is quite possible to install a hydraulic accumulator separately from pumping equipment, but in this case the volume of the tank must be large.

Perhaps the most important detail of this reservoir is the membrane for the hydraulic accumulator - what it is, what it is used for and what it can be will be discussed in today’s article.

What are the advantages of using a hydraulic accumulator?

If you install a hydraulic tank, say, in a water supply system autonomous type, then it will perform the following important functions.

• It will maintain the required pressure in the line.
• It will extend the life of the pump because it limits its activation/deactivation.
• Will compensate for liquid leaks from the water supply network.
• Protects the line from water hammer when the pump is turned on.

Obviously, the hydraulic tank is an extremely important component of any autonomous system water supply, and therefore the functionality of the entire water supply network depends on how stable it works.

What does a hydraulic accumulator consist of?

This device includes the following structural elements:

• flange with valve;
• metal body;
• actually, a membrane.

Note! The membrane in this case is the most important element, which means she should always have a special role!

How does the membrane for a hydraulic accumulator work?

Outwardly, it is very similar to a simple medical heating pad, if we are talking about a small-sized hydraulic tank (no more than 100 liters). If the tank is larger (over 100 liters in volume), then the described product will be more shaped like a bottle or pear.

But this does not affect the essence in any way: regardless of the volume of the accumulator, the membrane is always made of an elastic material. It is placed inside an iron case so that it seems to divide it into two parts. The first (that is, inside the membrane itself) contains water, and the second contains air, which is pumped inside the device. What is all this for? And in order for the pump to pump liquid into the membrane after switching on, it will fill until certain point, that is, until the pressure in the system reaches the maximum permissible value(if the network is for domestic use, then this is usually 1.8-3 atmospheres). This indicator is set in advance on the pressure switch.

After that pump equipment turns off. The liquid will still be under pressure, and therefore will be able to flow from the taps of the plumbing equipment with normal pressure. And it’s not surprising, because she will already be under the influence compressed air located inside the hydraulic tank.

Note! All this will allow you to save on electricity and significantly extend the operating life of the equipment (the pump itself will be on for much less time). Moreover, the use of a hydraulic tank in a water supply system is also good because it minimizes sudden pressure drops that inevitably accompany the inclusion of pumping equipment.

Main types of membranes for hydraulic accumulators

There are several classifications; let’s look briefly at each of them. So, according to its purpose, a membrane for a hydraulic accumulator can be:

• for water supply systems;
• For heating systems.

Let's take a closer look at each of the varieties. So, membranes for hydraulic accumulators, which are used in water supply systems, have the following characteristics:

• they are made of rubber;
• designed for a pressure of no more than 7 atmospheres;
• immune to bacteria;
• can be used at temperatures ranging from 0-70 degrees.

As for products intended for heating systems, these have slightly different characteristics:

• they are made of EPDM material ( special rubber, which is produced using special technology);
• designed for a pressure of no more than 8 atmospheres;
• can be used at temperatures not exceeding 99 degrees.

The hydraulic accumulator membrane described in this article, like any other device or element, has its drawbacks. We are talking, first of all, about its instability to the following negative factors:

• sudden temperature changes;
• sudden/frequent compression;
• too much heat(more than 70 or 90 degrees, respectively);
• too high pressure (although this moment is not very relevant for water supply/heating, since the operating pressure household pumps small).

However, it is almost impossible to avoid negative impacts altogether. So, in the evening, water consumption increases - when we all get home, we want to cook dinner, take a shower, and so on. Because of this, the water accumulated in the tank is quickly consumed. A similar situation is observed in the morning. Therefore, despite the fact that manufacturers claim a five-year guaranteed service life of the membrane, in reality it requires more frequent replacement(we'll talk about this in more detail at the end of the article). Ideally, its integrity should be checked at least once a year.

Note! The volume of the hydraulic tank deserves special attention, which is not surprising, because, in essence, it is key characteristic. Modern models are produced with a volume of 8 liters or more.

For household use Most often, products with a capacity of 24-80 liters are purchased (the largest options can hold up to 2,000 liters, but for an ordinary private home this is not relevant for obvious reasons). In addition, products for 100-200 liters are quite popular (in particular, for houses where 4 or 5 people live).

Classification of membranes by design

In accordance with this classification, the product can be:

• flat;
• balloon

Let's look at each of the varieties in more detail.

Flat products

Each such membrane for a hydraulic accumulator is fixed inside the tank, dividing it, as we have already described above, into wet and dry zones. When the pumping equipment is turned on, water begins to be pumped in, causing the membrane to compress and create excessive pressure in the dry compartment. When this pressure reaches a certain level, the pump will be turned off, and the membrane, in turn, will begin to push the accumulated liquid into the pipeline. When the pressure drops to the minimum permissible value, the pumping equipment will turn on again and the cycle will repeat.

As we can see, electricity is really saved, as well as the resource of the pumping station itself.

Balloon type products

They are also a rubber container shaped like a can or pear. The principle of operation in this case is not complicated and looks something like in the following way: first, the pump pumps liquid inside this cylinder, then, when excessive pressure forms between its walls and the walls of the accumulator, it will push water out into the water supply after the pump turns off.

Note! It is obvious that balloon products significantly reduce negative impact water hammer on the water main.

Popular models of membranes for hydraulic accumulators and average prices

Let’s immediately say that there are a great many different models, as well as manufacturers. Therefore, we will give a small rating of only the most popular options for this product. For the convenience of our visitors, all information below is presented in the form of a summary table.

Name, photo	Short description	Average market price, in rubles per piece
1. UNIPUMP 24 liters (EPDM)	Product domestic production, the volume of which, as you might guess from the name, is 24 liters. Made of elastic rubber (ethylene/propylene, synthetic origin).	2200
2. UNIPUMP 5 liters (EPDM)	The characteristics in this case are almost the same, with the exception of the volume - here it is only 5 liters.	2100
3. “Gillex” 24 liters	This hydraulic accumulator membrane is also produced in Russia and can hold up to 24 liters.	2100
4. UNIPUMP 300 liters (EPDM)	The description and characteristics are the same as those of the first two options, only the capacity already reaches 300 liters.	9900
5. “Gillex” 300 liters	Designed for a water temperature of no more than 99 degrees, it can hold up to 300 liters of water.	8200

As you can see, despite the great variety, the products of the two manufacturers mentioned above are the most popular in the country. Well, we’ve sorted out the features and other introductory points, so let’s move on to the most important thing!

Checking and diagnosing hydraulic tank problems

Let's start with the fact that the normal functionality of the entire plumbing system largely depends on the operation of the hydraulic accumulator. And if the water supply fails, then you are obliged to find the cause as soon as possible and repair it. high-quality repairs. Otherwise, this can lead to more serious breakdowns, which, in turn, will inevitably lead to the failure of all equipment. And the most common reason is the membrane for the accumulator.

Let's look at how to find out, how to diagnose and replace this element.

As a rule, all problems can be easily fixed with your own hands. Let's get acquainted with the main “symptoms” and what needs to be done in a particular situation.

The pump malfunctions and turns on/off frequently

Most likely the membrane has failed. To diagnose this malfunction, disconnect the hydraulic tank from the water supply system, and then start draining the liquid. If air escapes during this, it means that there is mechanical damage to the membrane. The problem can be solved by replacing the failed membrane with a new one.

Water leaks from nipple

This is also evidence of membrane failure. The diagnostics in this case are the same, but replacing the damaged element can solve the problem.

The faucet is leaking intermittently or there is a leak behind the air valve.

Everything here is the same as in the previous two cases.

Water pressure is weak

In this case, there are two possible reasons– failure of the pump or incorrectly selected volume of the accumulator. In the first case, the problem is solved by installing a new pump, and in the second, by carrying out calculations and replacing the product with a more suitable one.

The system pressure is too low

Everything is simple here: either the nipple is broken, or there is simply no compressed air in the container. Therefore, to solve the problem it is necessary to replace the nipple or pump up the pressure to the required level.

Water is leaking from under the flange

The reason, apparently, is a violation of the tightness of the connections. You just need to tighten the fastenings or replace the worn element.

Note! To extend the service life of the hydraulic accumulator, mandatory periodically inspect and diagnose the main components, and also monitor the pressure in the water supply system.

1. Every month inspect the device, check whether its operating parameters correspond to the standard (the latter is individual for each specific model tank).
2. If the accumulator will not be used for some time, it must be kept in a dry place, taking care that it does not come into contact with any heating devices (otherwise the membrane material may dry out and collapse).
3. Check to see if there are any rust spots at the connections or on the body.
4. Check the membrane to ensure its integrity approximately every six months.
5. In addition, regularly check whether there are any wet surfaces or smudges on the connections.
6. Finally, if you experience any device malfunctions or malfunctions, fix them immediately!

You are also probably wondering how to check the initial pressure inside the hydraulic tank? There is nothing complicated here - just follow the instructions.

Step one. First, disconnect the accumulator from the main line.

Step two. Drain all the water from it.

Step four. If the pressure gauge readings are lower than those set by default, then using, for example, a compressor for a car, pump up the pressure to the required value.

Note! If your accumulator membrane needs to be replaced, then be sure to purchase a new product with the same characteristics! We are talking about volume, dimensions, maximum temperature of the liquid, neck diameter, material used in manufacturing, and so on.

How much will a replacement cost?

As noted earlier, the membrane is the element of the equipment described in the article that breaks most often. And it’s not surprising, because it constantly stretches and contracts. As for the specific cost of replacement, it depends, first of all, on the manufacturer, the type of membrane and the hydraulic tank itself.

If you continuously use the plumbing system, we recommend that you give preference to a more expensive membrane that can withstand a large number of operational cycles. Also note that an imported membrane will cost about the same as half of a new hydraulic tank. But the service life of such a product is several times longer than that of cheaper options.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the membrane

So, first, go to a plumbing supply store and purchase a new membrane. Perfect option– you will remove the old woman’s membrane and take it with you to the store. Note that membranes may differ depending on the specific manufacturer, and primarily in the diameter of the neck. After arriving at the store, show the old membrane and ask that they pick up the same new one for you. If the volume of your tank is 24 liters, then you will be given the same membrane - the same for 24 liters. The situation is similar with a 100 liter hydraulic tank.

Important information! Large models of hydraulic accumulators have a pair of inlet/outlet holes, therefore, the membranes for them must also be different.

After purchasing a suitable product, you can proceed directly to the replacement procedure.

First, unscrew the six flange bolts (there is a chance that your hydraulic tank will have more of them). Remove the previous membrane - it will most likely be worn out and torn, and therefore it must either be immediately sent to a landfill, or used to make something useful on the farm.

Having removed the previous one, proceed to install a new membrane inside the hydraulic tank. In this case, it is important that the edges of the neck of the product are located exactly on the neck of the accumulator.

When installing the flange, be extremely careful, otherwise the membrane neck may move and you will need to disassemble everything again. Next, carefully tighten the bolts (it is recommended to do this in different places in order to evenly press the product against the hydraulic tank). You don't have to tighten them too much.

After screwing the flange to the hydraulic tank, begin pumping air around the membrane. For these purposes, take the car pump already mentioned above, for example, and pump it up. IN in this example the pump pumps up to approximately three atmospheres, and therefore the internal pressure around the membrane was about two atmospheres.

But first, it is advisable to pump only one atmosphere, so that the pressure inside the water supply (which is three atmospheres) presses the product inside the hydraulic tank, despite the fact that the flange presses the edges of the neck. By the way, it is for this reason that in this example the masters decided to upload more high pressure so that the membrane is not pulled into the tank under the influence of water pressure.

Features of sealing a damaged membrane

To repair the described product, the vulcanization method can be used. Thanks to the latter, the operational life of the membrane can be extended by another couple of weeks - this should be enough to search for, purchase and install a new model. However, any renovation work in this case, this is only a temporary measure, because a new membrane will still have to be purchased.

What about a hydraulic tank without a membrane?

In addition to standard hydraulic accumulators industrial production, there is one more Alternative option– make a similar device with your own hands. In fact, a hydraulic tank without a membrane will be a simple reservoir for water, since it was it (the membrane) that was “engaged” in maintaining pressure in the plumbing system. However, it is much easier to purchase a ready-made hydraulic tank - even the most inexpensive one.

To make such a hydraulic tank yourself, you will need the following equipment and materials:

• fitting;
• container with a volume of at least 30 liters;
• nipple;
• ball valve;
• gaskets made of rubber;
• 1/2 inch tap;
• sealant for sealing;
• nuts and washers for fasteners.

After preparing everything you need, you can proceed directly to the work process. The latter is not complicated, and the algorithm of necessary actions is presented below.

Step one. First, make holes in the tank - in several places (on the side, on the bottom or lid).

Step two. Install a 1/2-inch tap into the hole located on the lid, and be sure to use sealant and rubber gaskets to seal the connection, and at the end securely secure it with washers.

Step three. Place a tee on this faucet.

Step four. Take stopcock 3/4 with the tee on and install it in the bottom hole.

Step five. There is only a hole left on the side - install the ball valve here.

Note! Once again, we note that all connections should be treated with sealant for more reliable fixation.

As a result, we emphasize once again that if the hydraulic tank is faulty, the plumbing system will not be able to function normally. And the cause of the malfunction is, as a rule, the membrane for the accumulator. But if you follow our tips and instructions, you can easily fix any problem that arises!

Do not forget about timely prevention - it will help extend the service life of the hydraulic tank and the pipeline itself!

Video - Instructions for replacing the hydraulic tank membrane