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Features of insulation of the facade of a wooden house. All the nuances of warming an old wooden house, what materials to choose and how to mount it yourself Scheme of warming wooden walls outside

In order to keep the warmth and comfort in the house, it is necessary to add a heat-insulating layer to the outer walls. Particular attention is paid to buildings that have been in operation for a long time and have experienced many negative impacts. Therefore, many owners are interested in the issue of warming an old wooden house.

A house made of wood has the ability to let vapors through, so that it is always comfortable to be in the premises. If you choose the wrong material for insulation, you can completely close the exit of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts say that the best insulation for an old wooden house cannot be found. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

Retains heat very well.
Isolates the interior from extraneous sounds from the environment.
Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
Fire and environmental safety.
Rodents do not use to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

protection from moisture is necessary, therefore mineral wool is torn with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and a windproof film, on the other;
requires mechanical fixation.

But such shortcomings are easy to deal with, because this option is suitable for an old house and or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the class available. Therefore, it is in demand among all construction companies and private developers. In addition to this positive moment, there are a number of others:

Good thermal insulation properties.
Has soundproofing.
Does not absorb moisture.
Withstands small mechanical loads.

But a small set of disadvantages makes the polystyrene unsuitable for insulating a village house from a log house:

lack of steam capacity;
rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
Styrofoam ignites easily, and then smolders with the release of caustic substances.

The tree already burns well, and if the finish is such that being in such a house will be life-threatening.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is a close relative of polystyrene. But manufacturers have slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost has also increased. What are the characteristics of penoplex?

Improved thermal insulation properties. If a foam plastic 10 cm thick is needed to insulate the house, then 5 cm foam can be replaced.
Withstands high mechanical stress.
Doesn't absorb moisture at all.
There are also soundproofing properties.
Penoplex is produced with the addition of flame retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting under the influence of fire. Therefore, compared to polystyrene, foam is safer.

Sometimes it is used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of steam capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively store heat inside the house. Therefore, we consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to isolate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, which allows it to be removed from the base much faster. If you insulate the walls from the inside, you can cause quite the opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze through.

For wall insulation, we choose hard mats of mineral wool. If there are material opportunities, you can take the foil version. The foil layer will repel heat from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all the cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material, we tightly caulk the interventional space or cracks that can form on the logs.

Ceiling

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling:

from the side of the room;
from the attic side.

Both the first and second methods are effective. Harder materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which a sheet insulation is placed. Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool, and even polystyrene. A more rigid material must be laid on top of the insulation. It can be chipboard, which will protect the insulation from bursting.

There is an option when bulk heaters are used, for example, sawdust, gravel. But such materials need a lot, which can be even more expensive than using modern heaters.

Floor

The choice of insulation technology for a dilapidated house depends on whether there is a basement or not. If there is a basement, then first insulate it. It is possible that after this it will not be necessary to further isolate the floor.

But if such a need has already been determined, then the following options are chosen:

Underfloor heating (electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, as it requires reliable electrical wiring.
The use of thermal insulation materials. They choose only hard options, but be sure to make a plank floor or cover with chipboard or OSB boards, and then decorate with the selected floor material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, do not neglect the possibility of isolating the floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The tree must be specially treated before any outdoor work can be started. Especially if the design is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and carefully adhere to the insulation technology if you do everything yourself.

And if you trusted the masters, then do not forget to control the team. It often happens that employees want to get the job done earlier and mess around a bit. This can lead to premature failure of the structure.

Surface preparation

Let's prepare the base first:

Remove all dirt and stains, traces of insects or fungus.
Remove old decorative coating.
Remove hinged structures that will interfere with all work.
Close all cracks.
Cover the wooden structure with protective compounds. These are antiseptic impregnations or mastics and moisture-repellent compounds. This will significantly extend the life of the foundation.

If the packaging says that it is desirable to make several layers, then it is better to do as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, you may regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier

After the impregnation is completely dry, proceed to laying the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to freely pass through the insulation and go outside.

start laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
each subsequent strip finds, on the previous one, by 10–15 cm;
joints are fixed with adhesive tape;
the membrane itself is fixed with a construction stapler.

Lathing installation

For the frame, wooden bars or metal profiles are used. If a wooden frame is chosen, then its parts also require special treatment in order to last as long as the decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means that you will have to put pegs or chop off in some places.

With metal, everything is much simpler - we take and install. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the shortcomings. But such a design will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether the heater will be used or not, and also on what decorative material it was decided to install on the facade.

The approximate plan is:

first we do the markup. The step between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
screw elements;
we check how evenly the parts are installed using the building level.

Installing a heat insulator

The material that acts as a heat insulator is placed between the elements of the crate. Mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that there are no gaps. Mineral wool should not bulge.

If such flaws appear, then they will later become cold bridges, which partially or completely levels out the work on insulation. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying the wind protection film

It is customary to lay a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. This material will protect the mineral wool from the penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The laying principle is the same as for the vapor barrier film:

Let's start from the bottom.
We make vertical stripes.
We lay in an overlap of 105-15 cm.
We glue the joints with tape.
The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the crate.

It is also appropriate to use mushroom dowels here. This mechanical fastener will additionally fix the insulation and the membrane.

Installation of the crate for fixing finishing materials from the outside

An additional crate also creates a ventilation gap, which allows you to remove the steam coming out of the interior. The size of the gap can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulation material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As a finishing material for a wooden house, you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the condition of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the house is too old, do not choose heavy material, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

fully follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
fix the details to the elements of the crate;
choose dry weather;
carry out the insulation of a wooden house only in the warm season.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating an old wooden house, be sure to check how durable the structure is. If necessary, walls and foundations need to be strengthened. For those who have never done such a thing, it is better to take care of the construction team, and not start experiments.

And for those who nevertheless decided to do everything on their own, you should strictly adhere to the instructions and not lose sight of anything. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose a heater and finish.

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners for a lot decades and even often cross the century boundary. But sooner or later, the time comes when the insulation of a wooden house from the outside becomes a necessary measure, because, being under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the details of the walls dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold enters the rooms without much difficulty. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and it will pay off in the first winter.

Having spent the exterior, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the exterior design of the building.

But, before buying material and starting work, you need to find out which of the modern heaters is best suited for a wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to carry out its installation.

At the moment, the most popular materials for insulating wooden buildings from the outside are expanded polystyrene in panels and mineral wool of various types, made in the form of mats or rolls. But, besides them, in recent years, sprayed insulation compounds, such as penoizol or ecowool, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulation layer, but also a decorative finish, have been increasingly used.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. It has good performance characteristics, makes it possible to significantly save on heating.

Expanded polystyrene is produced in panels of various thicknesses, 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m in size, with a density of 15 to 40 kg / m³. For insulating outdoor work, medium-sized material is usually used. density - order 25kg /m³ and thickness from 50mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density expanded polystyrene is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is light, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, therefore it becomes a good barrier to both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has a low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees the long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and fix on the wall. It is resistant to temperature extremes and ultraviolet, and almost does not absorb moisture, so it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, polystyrene foam has its own significant disadvantages:

low mechanical strength - the material breaks and crumbles quite easily, therefore, after fixing to the wall, it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and a decorative coating;
ordinary expanded polystyrene cannot be called non-combustible, and when exposed to high temperatures, it turns into a fluid burning mass and releases substances dangerous to the human body. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered non-combustible, or rather, self-extinguishing, and it is recommended to use it for warming wooden buildings.
if you plan to fix the boards with glue, then you need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for use with polystyrene foam, as some substances destroy this material.

Styrofoam rating for facade

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2			⭐ 99 / 100
#3			⭐ 98 / 100
#4			⭐ 96 / 100
#5			⭐ 95 / 100

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Characteristic:

quantity in the package 10 pcs;
dimensions 100×120 cm;
thickness 100 mm;
the area of one sheet is 1.2 m²;
area in the package 12 m²;
applied
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.048 W/(m⋅K).

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Characteristic:

quantity in the package 7 pcs;
dimensions 118×60 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of one sheet is 0.7 m²;
area in the package 4.9 m²;
for internal and external works;
grooved plate;
minimum operating temperature -50 °C;
maximum operating temperature 75 °C.

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Xcharacteristics:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in a package 8 pcs;
dimensions 118.5 × 58.5 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of one sheet is 0.7 m²;
area in the package 5.6 m²;
for internal and external works;
scope: for a floor, for walls, for overlappings, for a roof;
grooved plate;

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Characteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in a package 8 pcs;
dimensions 240×60 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of one sheet is 1.4 m²;
area in the package 11.2 m²;
for external works;
scope: for a floor, for a roof;
grooved plate;
maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Characteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity per pack 20 pcs;
dimensions 120×60 cm;
thickness 20 mm;
the area of one sheet is 0.7 m²;
area in the package 14 m²;
for internal and external works;
minimum operating temperature -70 °C;
maximum operating temperature 75 °C;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.032 W/(m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the crate or directly on the plane of the walls using glue and fasteners - "umbrellas" ("fungi"). The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house is built of timber and its walls have smooth surfaces, you can use both options, but it's easier to get by with glue.

Before installing the insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If there are any, then they need to be repaired. The process can be carried out in various ways - this is plugging cracks with tow treated with lime or sealing with modern materials, such as sealant or building foam.
After that, the wooden surface must be treated - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold spots.
When the antiseptic dries, you can proceed with the installation of insulation. To make it stick well to the wall, you can lightly walk on its surface with an iron brush.
Installation of insulation begins at the bottom corner of the wall. For ease of fastening and evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width corresponding to the thickness of the material.

The slabs are smeared with a solution of special building glue, pointwise and along the edge, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be pressed tightly against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and fixed to the wall, they must be sealed with mounting foam.

After removing the first row, the subsequent rows are fastened according to the brickwork system, in a dressing.

After waiting 3-4 days after mounting the plates to the wall, they must be fixed with the help of “fungi” fasteners. Each plate must be fixed with 5-6 similar elements. Fasteners should have a leg length several centimeters longer than the thickness of the insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the "fungus" must be chosen with a leg of 100 mm. When clogging, the cap should enter the styrofoam plate flush with its surface.

Fixing the mount - "fungus"

When all the insulation is installed, you can begin to reinforce the expanded polystyrene - this is done using a fiberglass sickle mesh.

At all corners of the building, you need to install special corners with a grid fixed to them, they are fixed with glue.

Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka

A wide mesh is fixed to the rest of the surface, which is sold in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm also on the adhesive mass. Serpyanka should, as it were, drown in glue. Having fixed it on the surface of expanded polystyrene, they pass it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries, the wall must be covered with a primer mixture - decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, you can only make decorative plaster finishing - siding or there will simply be nothing to fix the lining. But on plastered walls, you can fix a light finishing material, for example, plastic tiles under brick or stone.

Find out detailed information with instructions, how to, from our new article.

Since installation work according to the second option (on the crate) is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, they will be discussed below.

Why you should insulate your home

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not a new insulation material, it has been tested by time, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost its popularity at all.

One of the best insulation materials is mineral wool.

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers fastened together with special compounds. Three different types of mineral wool are produced, and they differ in the base material of manufacture - these are stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they also have other differences - this is moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to some external influences, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

slag wool

This material is made from blast-furnace slag, which, after processing, is drawn into fibers with a length of 10 to 20 mm and a thickness of up to 10 microns.

When choosing a heater for the facade, this option should be immediately abandoned, since it is hydroscopic. Moisture on it can lead to mold inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to the metal profile, an oxidative reaction may occur, since slags have residual acidity in their composition.

Slag wool has a sufficiently high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic, it is also not quite suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.

glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting glass mass, the length of the fibers of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is not more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it has a small weight and good elasticity. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, packages do not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and more durable. It not only insulates the walls well, but also perfectly protects from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install it between the bars of the crate.

The disadvantage is that during its installation it is necessary to carefully protect the eyes, face and hands, respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they get on the tissues, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

stone wool

Basalt rocks serve as raw materials for the manufacture of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures, so it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of cotton wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Due to all its positive characteristics, it is excellent for insulating facades.

Basalt (stone) wool - the material is practically without flaws

Basalt wool is available in the form of rolls or slabs, it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

All of the above types of mineral wool have a hardness classification. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for facade insulation. For such work, you need to choose the material of the brand PZH-175 - this is a rigid plate, or PZH-200, which means increased rigidity of the plate.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Installation of a mineral wool insulation layer is carried out with a crate installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with polystyrene foam. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
In this case, a crate made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which a slab or roll insulation is fixed.

In order to achieve the best effect of insulation and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is advised to pre-fix the vapor barrier material under the crate.
It must be remembered that the lathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be 5 cm less than the width of the insulation. This is required so that it fits snugly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be mounted in two layers, then it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the installed bars - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

There are several ways how to fix the crate, and which one to choose - the owner of the house decides, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
After installing the lathing bars, between them, starting from the bottom row, insulation mats are laid. In order for them not to slip, you can connect all the bars from below with a supporting rail.

In the event that roll material is used, laying starts from the top, securing the upper edge to the “fungi”. The remaining fixing elements will be installed later.
Then, the laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. She often completely covers the entire wall, fixing it on the bars with brackets. Sometimes it is laid only on a heater, but the first option is preferable.

Further, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is fixed with “fungi” to the wall.
A decorative finish is fixed on top of the crate - it can be siding or lining. The rules for the installation of such a finish are considered separately, in other publications.

A decorative coating is mounted on top of the crate - siding, block house or other materials

If the crate is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It happens otherwise - with two layers of insulation. First, the first crate is made horizontally, then, after laying the first layer of insulation, the second crate is mounted along the bars, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool - everything is the same as described above.

Video - An example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Sprayed heaters

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, recently they began to use liquid heaters that are sprayed onto the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such a heater, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can be an excellent alternative to mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

polyurethane foam

A wooden house covered with polyurethane foam can be considered protected from the negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures for many years.

Modern method of thermal insulation - polyurethane foam spraying

However, this spraying method is rarely used, as it requires special equipment and good skills, and inviting a professional with special equipment is quite expensive. Nevertheless, it must be taken into account that the service life of this material reaches fifty years, while other heaters become unusable after a shorter period. Therefore, having once spent on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to almost any external influence.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

excellent adhesion during application;
lack of fasteners;
the material penetrates into all small holes and crevices of the wall, preventing cold air from entering the building;
compatibility with any materials;
the formation of a seamless coating on the surface, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;
the coating does not require repair and renewal for many years;
mold does not appear on it and rodents do not damage it.

Application of polyurethane foam

Any surface for mounting sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of such a size are nailed onto its surface, with what thickness it is planned to arrange a spray layer - this will become a kind of beacon. Protruding frozen sections of the foam will be cut off along these guidelines.

When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure - more than 100 atmospheres. The master with the help of a pneumatic gun sprays the material on the surface of the wall. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2-3 seconds. Setting and the beginning of hardening of polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve the desired effects of heat and sound insulation, the coating should be sprayed in three layers.

Sprayed polyurethane is divided into materials for internal and external use. For application outside, we use "Ecothermix 300", "HEATLOK SOY"

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane on wooden walls from the inside of the house. The process of spraying from the outside is practically no different.

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is an insulating and soundproofing material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its manufacture is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid, which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like a gray powder.

Another method of thermal insulation of walls is ecowool spraying.

The ecological purity of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds and petroleum products, other substances that can emit fumes hazardous to human health.

When applying the material to the surface, it fills all the holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Additives from borax and boric acid are excellent antiseptics for insulation, which do not allow any forms of biological life to breed in its thickness.

An important positive quality of ecowool for a wooden building is its heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Application of an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - a crate of the right size is fixed on it - it will regulate the thickness of the spray. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that not completely frozen material does not slide out from under its own weight.

To spray ecowool on the walls, a special installation is required, in the bunker of which dry material is poured. There it is loosened and moistened, and through a special pressure gun it is applied to the surface. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video - The technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the materials and technologies described above, to date there are many other heaters. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy bills every day, then you can always find a material that meets all the criteria.

How to deal with the required thickness of insulation?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness of the wooden walls and the climatic features of the region of residence.

Knowing the right thickness of insulation is important. An excessive “fur coat” can only damage a wooden house, and an insufficient one will not allow you to create comfortable living conditions. In addition, this parameter directly affects the design of the frame - it is important to know how far from the wall its guides should be placed under the outer one. Making independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The point is, what total resistance to heat transfer of a sandwich wall structure R should not be less than calculated for a particular climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values are plotted on the map of the Russian Federation. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the log house itself, but also the interior finish (if it exists and is it planned, a layer of thermal insulation and exterior finish of the facade (important - external finish, made according to the principle of a ventilated facade) is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal index is calculated resistance.

An example is the following diagram:

1 - wooden wall (beam or log). There is a nuance - the thickness of the log wall (on the right) can be somewhat smaller than that of the timber. It is worth paying attention to this when measuring and further calculations.

2 - walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the rooms are left unsheathed - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they may well be sheathed with drywall (for painting or wallpapering), plywood, natural clapboard or wood composite panels, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - A layer of thermal insulation - it is precisely its thickness that must be determined.

The design may have several layers. So, if a sheathing is provided outside without a ventilated gap, close to the thaw material (for example, using a natural board or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also shows:

4 — vapor-permeable diffuse membrane.

5 - frame details ( battens).

6 - siding or lining, mounted according to the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). Here is such a finish, as already mentioned, no matter what material it would be made of, it will not make any tangible contribution to the overall thermal resistance of the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, in order to determine the required thickness of insulation, it is required to know the thickness of each layer and the coefficient of their thermal conductivity.

Rn = Hn / λn

hn is the thickness of a particular layer.
λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form

Hu = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3 … ) × λу

Well- the thickness of the insulation.
λу- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the selected thermal insulation material.

It is not difficult to find coefficients for various materials in the reference literature - a lot of it is posted on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of existing layers is also not difficult.

A wooden house attracts many owners due to its ability to "breathe" and good thermal insulation properties. But often people think about warming their homes, especially when the harsh winter comes.

In addition, the use of additional insulation of wooden walls allows you to reduce heating bills and increase the lifespan of a tree. Then the question arises - how to carry out the insulation of a wooden house from the outside in a quality and correct way.

External insulation, in contrast to the internal method, involves the preservation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe house space. It also contributes to the formation of condensate in the ventilated area. As a result, in winter, the log house does not lend itself to freezing, and in the summer season it does not rot.

But in order to achieve such an effect of a wooden house, the following rules must be observed:

all work should be carried out in dry weather, when there is no dampness on the walls;
thermal insulation is carried out on a clean repaired area that does not contain moss and moldy areas;
use a steam and layer on both sides of the insulating material;
how to insulate a wooden house is decided by the owner himself, but it is worth focusing on vapor-permeable products;
arrange a ventilated space between the finishing and insulating elements.

Before starting the insulation of the walls, it is worth checking their surface for the presence of bark beetles, which can subsequently destroy the surface of a wooden house both outside and inside. Carrying out work on the insulation of an old dwelling, it is possible to obtain additional heat insulation. You can also give an old wooden house a new look and reduce heating costs.

Material options

Saving heat inside the home and the duration of the operation of the house largely depend on the choice of material. The market for building materials and materials offers a wide range of products to insulate walls.

Expanded polystyrene (foam)

The use of such material on the outer walls of a wooden house is due to its advantages:

strength;
does not give in to rotting and influence of water;
favors the preservation of heat, not reacting to temperature changes;
ease of installation;
incombustibility;
long service life.

Insulation of the house with foam plastic also has several disadvantages:

they can insulate dwellings from a bar when the walls are even, and the insulation of a log house is complicated due to the construction of a ventilated facade;
high price of products;
low permeability for air masses, which leads to the effect of a "greenhouse";
rodents love it.

This material is better for floor insulation in a log cabin or attic floor. Water resistance does not imply the use of a waterproofing layer in this case. But there is an exception if you want to apply material for a wooden floor in a bathroom or kitchen.

A variety of expanded polystyrene is its sprayed form, which allows you to quickly insulate the desired surface. When using sprayed products, it is worth noting that after prolonged use they are difficult to separate from the surface of the walls.

Therefore, repairing the insulated area will not work. But such materials are used to keep warm in a house with an old floor. In this case, the material is applied without dismantling the floors. Moreover, the composition applied on top additionally strengthens the base.

Styrofoam

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam, if you want to preserve the property of wood to conduct air. In this case, this will not work. After all, this type of insulation is characterized by the absence of air transmission.

And also other negative consequences are possible if you want to insulate the facade of a wooden house with this material:

increases the likelihood of fire due to the flammability of the foam elements;
wall insulation from the outside can be carried out for a long time and of poor quality, since the foam does not have high strength;
additional waterproofing of the insulating material will be required.

Styrofoam consists of small balls resistant to water. But between them there are gaps that can accumulate water. Subsequently, the water freezes and expands, causing the foam boards to crumble.

Therefore, it is better not to use polystyrene on the outside of the log structure. But with the help of it you can insulate the floor in a wooden house. More foam products are attached to the attic floors of wooden houses and other buildings.

Warming a wooden house with mineral wool is considered a popular way. This is justified by its advantages:

the insulation scheme is easy to install;
low cost;
the ability to remove water vapor;
duration of operation;
does not deform under temperature changes;
incombustibility.

When the owner decides to insulate an old wooden house, it is worth considering that mineral wool quickly absorbs moisture. This can lead to rapid decay of a building that is no longer new. Therefore, it is important to use waterproofing agents.

Mineral wool has several varieties: slag, stone, glass wool, ecowool. They differ in technical characteristics and manufacturing methods. But they are considered acceptable for thermal insulation of walls.

When installing mineral wool, work should be carried out using gloves and goggles, as the material causes irritation. Also, inhalation should be avoided.

The use of ecowool when insulating a wooden house from the outside, unlike other types of wadded material, helps to maintain thermal insulation when water enters. This is based on the property of ecowool to absorb moisture and then give it away.

In order to properly insulate with such a product, special installations should be used for uniform distribution. But this technology is expensive.

Thus, there is an answer to the question of what is the best way to insulate a wooden house. This is to apply mineral wool. After all, this material has good vapor permeability, has a small weight and allows the tree to "breathe".

The material is considered easy to install, since anyone can insulate a wooden house from the outside with the help of such a product. But before insulating a wooden house, you need to purchase insulation and prepare a structure from the outside for its location.

Warming technology

The procedure for wall insulation includes several stages. It is important to go through all the steps and follow the recommendations to obtain high-quality insulation. Indeed, in the future, the log house should retain heat for a long time.

Surface preparation

The use of mineral wool outside involves preliminary cleaning of the surface and cutting off protruding areas. The next step is to close holes, gaps, cracks with foam. After the applied foam has dried, remove the remnants of the product with a knife. After that, you need to treat the outer surface with special compounds. These are flame retardants and antiseptics.

When choosing special processing compounds, it is necessary to take into account the ability to penetrate deep into the structure of the tree. But at the same time, the composition should not cover the pores intended for the passage of air.

All preliminary preparation operations are carried out in dry weather.

Laying a vapor barrier

The vapor barrier layer is designed to self-regulate the microclimate of the tree and simultaneously protect it from water. How to properly lay this layer. The first step is to choose the right product.

The following vapor barrier products are sold on the market:

isospan;
polyethylene;
ruberoid.

When choosing, it must be borne in mind that the product must pass air so that the tree does not succumb to decay. Therefore, it is better not to use polyethylene products.

It is possible to mount the vapor barrier material on top of the wall surface using stapler brackets. But in the presence of uneven surfaces, it is better to equip the crate on which the vapor barrier will be attached. And also the constructed structure creates a ventilation space. For the construction, slats with a minimum width of 2 cm are selected. The gap between the slats is 1 m.

After arranging the crate, a vapor barrier is laid, fixed with a stapler. The joints of the material are sealed with adhesive tape.

Material laying

Mineral wool is laid on the vapor barrier layer. But first, it is necessary to make a frame crate for it. Reiki is selected with a size of 40x100 mm. The basic rule of the frame is that the width of the groove formed should be less than the width of the plate used (approximately 15 mm).

When choosing metal slats or wooden bars, it is better to choose the latter. This is due to the fact that the wooden house is insulated. To fasten the frame, use nails to ensure the “walking” of the tree.

After arranging the frame, the stage of laying the cotton material begins:

Mineral wool is available in the form of slabs or rolls. The rolled material is cut with a knife into the necessary elements.
When laying on even surfaces, mineral wool does not need to be fixed from above. If the plates are mounted on sloping sections or recesses, then the material is fixed with anchor nails.
Laying is done from the bottom up.
When laying two layers of insulation, the second layer should be placed offset, avoiding overlapping joints.

In case of improper installation, the material can be easily dismantled.

Location of waterproofing

The waterproofing layer is designed to prevent moisture from entering the structure. For this, a special windproof membrane is selected. The use of polyethylene film is impractical due to the fact that it will allow water to accumulate in the insulation.

Please note: fit in accordance with the instructions.

The membrane is attached with a stapler or nails. Docking areas are sealed with adhesive tape. A counter-lattice is superimposed on top of the membrane, which makes it possible to achieve air ventilation. The width between the waterproofing and the facade to be installed is at least 5 cm.

All work on the insulation of the material is completed by the installation of a facing coating. Mineral wool is suitable for outside insulation under siding, lining or brick. In the case of repairs, the removal and renewal of the material is easy.

Other insulation materials can be used on the basement or foundation, which is located above the ground.

Now many will know how to insulate the facade of the house. With a competent approach, the warmth of a wooden house will not come out, but will remain inside. Moreover, all the work can be done by hand.

04.09.2016 0 Comments

The popularity of houses made of wood is only increasing every year. And for good reason. This is due to the ease and speed of construction work, as well as the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. However, the latter fact does not at all exclude the expediency of warming, especially in areas with a harsh climate. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what? The advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances of doing this kind of work with your own hands will be revealed further.

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Insulation options

Warming a wooden house from the outside has a lot of advantages:

the dimensions of the interior rooms remain unchanged;
lack of debris and dust inside the room;
there is no need to rearrange the furniture or perform any internal work;
additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
for old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to ennoble, transform the appearance of the building.

Note! Improper performance of work on the insulation of a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, damage and decay of the wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Despite the constant discoveries and developments in the field of construction and building materials technologies, 3 options for insulation materials have confidently gained a foothold on the market:

Mineral wool.
Styrofoam.
Penoplex or polystyrene.

All of them have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own characteristics and disadvantages, which are extremely important to consider. A detailed consideration of each material will allow you to decide how best to insulate a wooden house.

Mineral wool, features of insulation

Mineral wool is compressed particles of artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for a log house, and does not undergo deformation. This material has proven itself in construction and is widely used to insulate the walls of a wooden house.

The advantages of mineral wool with confidence include:

ease of installation;
environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
guarantees additional protection against fire;
democracy, affordability;
durability;
the structure does not deteriorate, does not change under the influence of temperature changes;
the material has a high melting point, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is better than many.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although there are few of them:

the need for additional protective equipment (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, so high-quality hydro and vapor barriers are required.

When choosing mineral wool as a heater, consider the following tips:

Before warming, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
Completely exclude the possibility of moisture penetration to the mineral wool. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a heater and a layer of waterproofing.
It is necessary to mount the material with a call to half of the previous sheet of material, spaces between the elements are not allowed.
Additionally, you can limit the shift of mineral wool using anchors.
You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Styrofoam as a heater

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, you can insulate a wooden house with your own hands using foam. Outwardly, it is an accumulation of a large number of air, foam balls of plastic mass. In terms of insulating qualities, polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) is in no way inferior to mineral wool.

The advantages of this material include:

ease and convenience of installation;
lightness of the material;
dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
increased soundproofing qualities;
resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

Warming the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is no more difficult than with mineral wool. Rather, on the contrary, a sheet of material is easily transferred, adjusted to the required dimensions by trimming. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

It is necessary to lay the material end-to-end.
To process gaps at the joints of polystyrene sheets, a diffusion membrane is used. It is attached to the surface with a stapler directly to the light.
The diffusion membrane must be at least 10 cm wide to ensure complete insulation of the foam joints.
Use tape to connect the membrane pieces.
Despite the stable ratio of foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders are categorically against the use of foam as a heat insulator. Because if the work is not properly organized, it will accelerate the development of the fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the structure wall and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Foam insulation (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a colleague of polystyrene. It is also a cellular, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene balls, but exceeds its predecessor in technical characteristics.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

increased technical characteristics;
good surface strength;
does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
perfectly retains internal heat;
does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
ease of installation;
environmentally friendly material;
does not burn;
enjoy a long service life.

The disadvantages of penoplex are as follows:

The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or polystyrene.
The need for high-quality protection from ultraviolet exposure to sunlight. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
Sensitive to solvents and similar substances.
Easily damaged by rodents.

As for the insulation process, it is identical to foam.

Note! A prerequisite for foam insulation is the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

Log house insulation technology outside

Now consider how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, in stages:

Prepare the surface of the walls of the house. To do this, clean them of dirt, and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
Seal gaps, holes and cracks in the wall with mounting foam. When the foam dries, cut off the remnants with a sharp knife.
Wet walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
To lay the vapor barrier layer, make a crate of wooden slats. The step between the slats should be 1 m. The crate should guarantee the presence of a ventilation space within 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of moisture drops on the tree, followed by decay, damage to the wall surface.
Install vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing material. Fix the vapor barrier on the rails, and seal the attachment points with adhesive tape to seal the coating.
Make a frame for the heat insulator, also using wooden planks 40 × 100 mm. A heater will be mounted in its grooves. Therefore, in order to achieve maximum joint density, the distance between the laths should be 15 mm less than the width of the sheet of material used. Wooden planks are installed only on the edge.
Using the building level, monitor the evenness of the crate to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other shortcomings.
Lay the insulation in the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
The next stage of the "pie" is the laying of a layer of hydro-windproof membrane. It must be fastened with nails or a construction stapler to a wooden frame. Again, treat the joints with adhesive tape for tightness.
The final stage is the installation of decorative trim on the facade of the house. Use siding, lining, brick or other building materials for this purpose.

Often there are situations when the walls in a wooden house lose one of their tasks, such as heat retention. In this case, they resort to warming the walls of the house from the outside. The insulation becomes a protection against cold air.

This approach also has several other advantages: the wall of the building gains additional protection from sunlight and moisture and will last longer.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

External insulation of the house has several advantages:

The main one, of course, is the preservation of heat. This type of insulation prevents a sudden drop in temperature. The wall, reinforced from the outside, retains high thermal protection.
Unlike internal insulation, with external insulation there are no zones in which there is no heat, the so-called "cold bridges" since with this type of insulation it is possible to install heat-insulating material at the junction of the ceiling to the outer walls.
Also, external insulation prevents the penetration of moisture into the walls of the house.

Do not forget about the shortcomings of external insulation. Such a process of warming wooden houses is quite complicated and time-consuming.

Warming methods

There are several types of insulation:

The insulator is attached to the wall with adhesive solution.
Facade ventilation. The wall is protected by waterproofing, a heater is attached on top, a windscreen is installed, after which the sheathing with siding or other material is installed on the frame.
Three-layer non-ventilated wall. The insulation is fixed with mortar, the outer wall is mounted in one brick, while observing the air gap.

It is natural that for each type of material there are subtleties in execution. It should not be ruled out that there are combined insulating materials on the market of insulating products or such materials for which it is necessary to adhere to the technology developed in-house.

What material is better?

There are several types of materials for thermal insulation, and before deciding which insulation would be best for you, you need to know their characteristics.. So, let's figure out how you can insulate the walls of a wooden structure.

Mineral wool

The most common material. It has a fibrous structure, which is formed as a result of spraying molten glass, rocks, slag.

The advantages of mineral wool insulation include good throughput, heat resistance, high stability index, guarantees noise protection, high service life.

But this type of insulation has a significant drawback - mineral wool can release phenol dangerous to humans.

Windproof plates Isoplat

Isoplat is a fibreboard made from softwood fibers without the addition of chemical components and glue. Such plates are natural and effective as the tree itself. In terms of thermal insulation properties, 12 mm board = 44 mm solid wood. Plates are available in various thicknesses. In addition to excellent insulating properties, they provide additional sound insulation.

The advantage of Isoplat is that the material does not deform over time, does not wrinkle or tear. In addition, being a "breathable" material, Isoplat protects walls from fungus and mold.

Installation of plates is very easy - press against the wall and nail. Above is a ventilated façade. Such insulation of a wooden house can be easily done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.

polyurethane foam

A type of plastic filled with gas. It has a cellular structure and is filled with carbon dioxide, air or other gases.

The advantages of PPU are high thermal conductivity and vapor permeability, high waterproofing properties, high safety, non-toxicity. The disadvantages include low fire resistance. Also material is quite expensive and ages over time, which has a bad effect on its heat-insulating properties.

Basalt slabs

Manufacturing method - molten rocks. Advantages - high vapor permeability, the presence of water-repellent properties, chemical and biological stability, sound insulation.

The big plus is safety. Such a heater is environmentally friendly. The only downsides are high price.

Styrofoam

A material filled with gas, like polyurethane foam. It is obtained from polystyrene and its derivatives. Such material is vapor permeable, absorbs water well, biologically stable, long service life. These are definitely positives.

Of the minuses - highly flammable, which makes it a rather dangerous material.

The most popular material for external insulation of wooden houses. It has a cellular structure. cells are isolated, polystyrene has good thermal insulation, which is definitely a plus.

Styrofoam insulation also provides good sound insulation, no need for additional waterproofing, ease of installation and durability.

Like all materials, polystyrene also has its drawbacks: it is unsafe. when burned, caustic substances are released, has low strength.

When choosing a thermal insulation material, you should pay attention to its service life, safety. The choice of material for insulation should be approached responsibly, to study all the pros and cons. Preference should be given fireproof and environmentally friendly materials.

We warm a wooden house with our own hands

The insulation technology begins with the installation of a frame on which the insulation will lie.

Bars are nailed to the wall being processed made of wood measuring 50x50 mm, keep in mind that the distance should be no more and no less than 580 mm of security. The material must be laid so that there are no gaps between the wall and the bars.

Next stage - providing vapor barrier. For this, aluminum foil, polyethylene film or vapor barrier film is used. The need for vapor barrier is eliminated if the house is made of round timber.

When the plane is smooth, then the slats are stuffed, on which a layer of vapor barrier is mounted. It must be taken into account that between the slats from below and above there should be a stomata of 20 cm in diameter for ventilation. The fastening points of the vapor barrier material are sealed with adhesive tape in order to protect against moisture.

The stage of vapor barrier is followed by the stage of thermal insulation. The material must be installed so that there are no gaps or gaps between the frame boards. The material is laid in two layers of 50 mm each. so that the joints of the first layer are aligned with the middle of the second.

For the secondary layer of thermal insulation bars are nailed across walls, perpendicular to the main row of the frame.

Next is waterproofing. The waterproofing film must easy to pass steam and hold water well. The waterproofing layer is superimposed on the heat insulator layer. It is nailed to the frame.

Next is the stage of installing a secondary layer of the frame. On the first layer (on top of the waterproofing layer), slats 50 mm wide and 30 mm thick are stuffed.

The installation of the next layer of the frame is carried out for free air movement between the vapor barrier layer and the skin, so that the moisture that has fallen on the waterproofing layer is dried.

The space formed below must be closed with a dense metal mesh from the penetration of rodents and insects.

At the last stage, the house is sheathed with appropriate material (siding, wall paneling, facade panels, and others). It should be taken into account that wall thickness will increase by 20-25 cm and accordingly, it is necessary to think over the protection of the insulation from the window openings.

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house outside with your own hands and what is better?

How can you insulate a wooden house from the outside? How to do it yourself? Varieties of material.

Proper insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, you need to correctly select all the materials. The building made of wood has its own characteristics. First of all, it is worth remembering why wood still retains its popularity. There are several reasons for this:

good thermal performance;
providing a comfortable microclimate in the building;
environmental friendliness;
security;
the ability to pass air (the tree "breathes").

The insulation of a wooden house from the outside should be chosen so that all materials do not reduce the useful properties of wood. But sometimes it is difficult to do so. To choose a good insulating material, you will need to spend your time and study the basic information on the issue.

pie wall

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the composition of the wall. After that, you can begin to select all the necessary materials. The technology of warming a wooden house from the outside provides for the following layers:

Vapor barrier and waterproofing are required to protect the material from moisture. Many types of thermal insulation are destroyed or cease to perform their function when exposed to water.

The choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside? The most popular materials in the construction market are:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages that you need to consider before deciding how and with what to insulate your own home.

Insulating a wooden house from the outside with your own hands in this case will be the cheapest. It can be bought almost everywhere. There are different types depending on the strength. Polyfoam has good thermal insulation performance, but the disadvantages include:

combustibility;
low strength;
resistance to mechanical damage.

Insulators for the walls of a wooden house of this type are not recommended for one reason: the foam practically does not let air through. This means that all the useful properties of wood, for which it is so valued as a material for building cottages, are coming to naught.

Insulating a house made of wood with polystyrene foam is a rather pointless procedure. Yes, the room will be warm, but at the same time, the temperature and humidity regime will be disturbed due to lack of ventilation. The natural air exchange in the room is blocked, the arrangement of forced ventilation or air conditioning is required. Both options involve additional (and not small) costs, both during the construction process and during the operation of the building.

Also, the foam needs careful protection from moisture. Manufacturers claim that the insulation of wooden walls with foam plastic does not absorb water, but this is not so. The polystyrene beads themselves are resistant to moisture, but it can accumulate in the space between them. Freezing water expands. The well-known law of physics does not apply here: water is the only substance that increases in volume with increasing temperature.

As the water expands, the pressure inside the material increases. This will eventually cause the styrofoam to crumble into individual balls in the first or second winter. To replace the external insulation will have to make a lot of effort and spend money.

For all the above reasons, insulation of walls outside a wooden house with foam plastic is not recommended. But you can consider using it for other structures, for example, basement and attic floors. In this case, special attention should be paid to waterproofing. The reason for this recommendation has already been stated.

Extruded polystyrene foam

To perform the insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside, you can consider using Penoplex. It is the closest relative of polystyrene, but is devoid of most of its shortcomings.

First of all, the insulation of wooden houses with such material has greater strength. Penoplex is resistant to stress and mechanical damage. The second positive property is moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture. This insulation for walls and ceilings can be used even without vapor barrier and waterproofing.

The benefits can also include:

high energy efficiency;
ease of installation;
ease of processing;
safety and environmental friendliness.

But the disadvantage again becomes poor air permeability. Without additional ventilation, the greenhouse effect in the house is guaranteed. Read more about the insulation of a wooden house with Penoplex.

It is not recommended to use Penoplex for houses outside, but it will be an ideal option for floors. Such material is not afraid of loads. On top of it, it is enough to make a cement screed with a thickness of 30-50 mm. It can be used both for the floor of the first floor and for the attic floor. Also, very often expanded polystyrene is bought for floor insulation on the ground.

Scheme of floor insulation with Penoplex

Due to the resistance to moisture, insulation can be dispensed with. But for wet rooms (bathroom, bathroom) it is recommended to put waterproofing. Such additional measures will protect the ceiling and insulation from water during various leaks. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the principles of floor insulation with Penoplex in more detail.

Mineral wool

What kind of insulation is better to protect the walls of the building? The answer here will be unequivocal. For both an old wooden house and a new one, mineral wool will be the best option. It not only allows you to save the beneficial properties of wood, but also smoothes out its shortcomings.

If you insulate the walls of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool, you can prevent a fire. Most of the materials in this group are non-combustible. This property distinguishes cotton wool from polystyrene and polystyrene foam.

Wall insulation in a wooden house outside with mineral wool conducts air well. When using it, you do not need to resort to additional ventilation measures: with the right choice of finishing material, the walls will continue to “breathe”. But this very finishing needs to be given special attention, otherwise you can ruin everything at the last stage.

The main area of application of the material in a wooden house is walls and roofing. It is strongly not recommended to lay cotton wool in ceilings. It has a fairly low strength and shrinks over time. This will lead to a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics and damage to floor structures. It is possible to insulate the structure of the attic floor with mineral wool. It will also be very effective to insulate the roof with mineral wool.

You can insulate the walls of a wooden house using different types of material:

Stone (the most common option is basalt). It is produced in plates and has the highest rigidity compared to other types. It is quite convenient to work with this type of insulation. It is safe and easy to cut.

stone wool

Glass. Is issued in rolls (mats). Its rigidity is not so high. The disadvantages include inconvenience during installation. Glass fibers can cause a lot of inconvenience to workers: they penetrate the lungs and get on the skin, causing severe itching and irritation. Before insulating an old wooden house (or a new one) with such material, you need to prepare a set of protective clothing: a suit, mask, gloves.

glass wool

Slag. The cheapest and most undesirable option. Thermal insulation of this type is made from industrial waste. Poor-quality cotton wool or a fake will pose real harm to the health and life of the inhabitants of the house, as it may contain hazardous substances. Such a heater for the outer walls of a wooden house should be bought only from trusted responsible suppliers who are responsible for the quality of their products.

slag wool

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? It is important to firmly remember one thing: the vapor barrier is laid on the side of warm air, and the waterproofing is on the side of cold air. Both the outer and inner material can be produced in the form of films and membranes. For a building made of wood, it is recommended to choose the latter option. The films practically do not let air through, and the membranes “breathe”.

Arrangement of steam, wind and moisture insulating layers

Before insulating an old wooden house from the outside, it is worth checking the condition of the walls, ceilings and roofs, and if necessary, reinforcing them and protecting them from mold and fungus. A combination of such measures will extend the life of the building. Also, the insulated structure must be cleaned of dirt and dust.

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside: not difficult and not expensive

Proper external thermal insulation of the walls of a new or old wooden house requires strict adherence to technology. We will talk about it in this article.

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

KakPostroit.by > Exterior decoration > How to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

Insulation options

Warming a wooden house from the outside has a lot of advantages:

the dimensions of the interior rooms remain unchanged;
lack of debris and dust inside the room;
there is no need to rearrange the furniture or perform any internal work;
additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
for old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to ennoble, transform the appearance of the building.

Note! Improper performance of work on the insulation of a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, damage and decay of the wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Mineral wool, features of insulation

The advantages of mineral wool with confidence include:

ease of installation;
environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
guarantees additional protection against fire;
democracy, affordability;
durability;
the structure does not deteriorate, does not change under the influence of temperature changes;
the material has a high melting point, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is better than many.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although there are few of them:

the need for additional protective equipment (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, so high-quality hydro and vapor barriers are required.

When choosing mineral wool as a heater, consider the following tips:

Before warming, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
Completely exclude the possibility of moisture penetration to the mineral wool. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a heater and a layer of waterproofing.
It is necessary to mount the material with a call to half of the previous sheet of material, spaces between the elements are not allowed.
Additionally, you can limit the shift of mineral wool using anchors.
You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Styrofoam as a heater

The advantages of this material include:

ease and convenience of installation;
lightness of the material;
dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
increased soundproofing qualities;
resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

It is necessary to lay the material end-to-end.
To process gaps at the joints of polystyrene sheets, a diffusion membrane is used. It is attached to the surface with a stapler directly to the light.
The diffusion membrane must be at least 10 cm wide to ensure complete insulation of the foam joints.
Use tape to connect the membrane pieces.
Despite the stable ratio of foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders are categorically against the use of foam as a heat insulator. Because if the work is not properly organized, it will accelerate the development of the fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the structure wall and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Foam insulation (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a colleague of polystyrene. It is also a cellular, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene balls, but exceeds its predecessor in technical characteristics.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

increased technical characteristics;
good surface strength;
does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
perfectly retains internal heat;
does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
ease of installation;
environmentally friendly material;
does not burn;
enjoy a long service life.

The disadvantages of penoplex are as follows:

The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or polystyrene.
The need for high-quality protection from ultraviolet exposure to sunlight. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
Sensitive to solvents and similar substances.
Easily damaged by rodents.

As for the insulation process, it is identical to foam.

Note! A prerequisite for foam insulation is the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

Log house insulation technology outside

Now consider how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, in stages:

Prepare the surface of the walls of the house. To do this, clean them of dirt, and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
Seal gaps, holes and cracks in the wall with mounting foam. When the foam dries, cut off the remnants with a sharp knife.
Wet walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
To lay the vapor barrier layer, make a crate of wooden slats. The step between the slats should be 1 m. The crate should guarantee the presence of a ventilation space within 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of moisture drops on the tree, followed by decay, damage to the wall surface.
Install vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing material. Fix the vapor barrier on the rails, and seal the attachment points with adhesive tape to seal the coating.
Make a frame for the heat insulator, also using wooden planks 40 × 100 mm. A heater will be mounted in its grooves. Therefore, in order to achieve maximum joint density, the distance between the laths should be 15 mm less than the width of the sheet of material used. Wooden planks are installed only on the edge.
Using the building level, monitor the evenness of the crate to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other shortcomings.
Lay the insulation in the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
The next stage of the "pie" is the laying of a layer of hydro-windproof membrane. It must be fastened with nails or a construction stapler to a wooden frame. Again, treat the joints with adhesive tape for tightness.
The final stage is the installation of decorative trim on the facade of the house. Use siding, lining, brick or other building materials for this purpose.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside: how to properly and the better to insulate

Instructions for warming a wooden house outside with various materials. How to make it with your own hands, and the better.

How and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside - the choice of materials and installation rules

It would seem that the question is quite simple - and the methods have long been worked out, and the choice of thermal insulation products is significant. But this is not about any building, but about a wooden house. Regarding its insulation, there are a number of nuances that cannot be neglected.

It's all about some features of such a building material as wood. First of all, it is its susceptibility to decay, the ability to "breathe" and retain heat well. The last two properties allow you to maintain comfortable conditions in the premises, as a rule, without significant additional costs. For example, for the purchase (and professional installation) of climatic equipment, due to the increased consumption of en / resources (including fuel for the boiler). At least, the indicated devices are not used as intensively in wooden houses as in brick or cellular concrete buildings. So, let's consider in detail how and what is the best way to insulate a wooden house.

Helpful information

To make the technology of work clearer, it should be explained why insulation from the outside for a wooden house is the only right solution. This method of reducing heat loss is the main one for any buildings, as it has a number of advantages. For example, does not reduce the usable area. This is one of the disadvantages of arranging this protective layer from the inside. But for a log house, something else is more relevant.

It's all about the so-called "dew point". The external installation of the insulation takes it outside the perimeter of the house, and condensate forms in the ventilated space. Consequently, in cold weather, the tree does not freeze, and in warm weather, the process of decay does not begin. If the insulation is laid on the walls of the premises, then the “point” shifts inward. As a result, the logs (beams) remain unprotected, and the condensate settles in the thermal insulation material, which initiates the development of mold and fungus not only in it, but also in the rooms.

How to insulate a wooden house

If you delve into the details, then the choice of materials is not so big.

Styrofoam boards

They differ not only in the correct geometry, but also in "rigidity". Therefore, to fix them, it is necessary to carefully align the base. It is still acceptable for a beam, especially if the walls were erected by professionals. And what about logs? In addition, foam plastics do not let in not only moisture, but also air. Therefore, the main attraction of a wooden house - climate control - will be completely leveled.

Spray formulations

Usually polyurethane. There are even more disadvantages, besides, special equipment will be needed. But the companies providing this service (for PU insulation) are silent about another rather significant disadvantage - the low maintainability of the layer. After all, it sticks to the surface on which it is applied. If, in the literal sense, it can still be “picked out” from a brick or concrete goods, then what about the tree? After all, it is quite malleable to mechanical stress, and damage to logs or timber in this case cannot be avoided.

There are other types of insulation for wooden buildings, which are advised to use the authors of some articles. But all the listed materials (chipboard, flax fiber, etc.), taking into account the specifics of the log house and in terms of durability, hardly deserve attention.

Warming the house from the outside - how to do it

Surface cleaning

This is where any repair or finishing work begins. For a wooden house, the initial inspection is especially important. It is necessary to identify all foci of damage to wood, determine their nature, methods and means to eliminate defects.

Processing with special / preparations

For a wooden house, both are equally relevant - flame retardants and antiseptics. Features of their use and formulation are indicated on the packaging. It is clear that it is desirable to do this in positive weather and clear skies.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

Its main purpose is to ensure the ability of wood to self-regulate the microclimate and at the same time protect the material from direct contact with moisture. There are many varieties of films and membranes on sale. If the first option is chosen, then it must be taken into account that all samples differ in their execution, and therefore, in the specifics of use. The film is cheaper, but the usual modification of polyethylene cannot be used for vapor barrier. It is hermetic, and together with water does not let air through. It is worth considering when choosing products.

Mounting on the outside of a wooden house is quite simple - using a construction stapler (staples). It is only necessary to take into account that the strips must be mounted with a slight "overlap", and the joints must be closed with adhesive tape (adhesive tape).

The construction of the supporting frame

It is also called a crate. What is its peculiarity in relation to a wooden house? The coefficients of thermal expansion of the materials to be bonded should be taken into account. Metal rails are much more convenient for installation, but since the house is made of wood, it is not advisable to use them. Only wooden bars of the appropriate length and section.

The dimensions of the seats (cells of the crate), as well as its design, are selected based on the geometry and design of the insulation. Mineral wool is sold in slabs or rolls, so it is not difficult to draw up a sample laying pattern.

Another nuance concerns fasteners. Self-tapping screws or screws should not be used for fixing elements of the crate. They "tightly" grab the supporting structure, and this should not be. A wooden house “plays” somewhat under the influence of external factors (a feature of the material), therefore, fastening the crate to it is only with nails.

What to consider

The reliable position of the insulation is ensured by the fact that during the laying in place, the samples are slightly compressed. Then, due to their elasticity, they straighten out somewhat, which determines their reliable "hitch" with the slats of the supporting frame. When calculating its parameters, it is necessary to choose the cell sizes so that they are slightly smaller than thermal insulation products. Then you do not need any of their additional fastening on the outside of the house.

Laying insulation material

There is nothing complicated about this, especially if the scheme is drawn up correctly. Mineral wool is well cut with an ordinary knife, they bend, so there will be no problems.

On problem areas of the walls (complex configuration, slope, etc.), it is worth additionally fixing the thermal insulation with special nails - anchors.
The gaps at the junction of the insulation to the frame rails are sealed with the same construction tape.
Installation of thermal insulation is carried out in the direction from the bottom up, in rows.
In regions with frosty winters, insulation (depending on the thickness of the samples) can also be laid in 2 layers. In this case, the plates for the second are cut so that after installation their joints in the rows do not match. That is, a mount with a slight offset.

Calculator for calculating the amount of insulation

Hydrowind protection layer

Since we are talking about a wooden house and mineral wool, traditional waterproofing is clearly not enough. It is advisable to mount a membrane (or a film of the corresponding modification) on top of the insulation. The order of laying (which side is inside) depends on the version of the product and is indicated in the accompanying documentation.

Using a conventional p / e film will lead to the fact that moisture will begin to accumulate in the insulation. There is nothing to comment here.

Control grille

It is necessary to create the so-called ventilated space. In most cases, it alone is enough to ensure effective liquid removal due to the natural circulation of air currents.

Details of the counter-lattice are rigidly fixed on the rails of the supporting frame. Their elevation above the latter, as well as what exactly to use as these structural elements, depends on the finishing material of the wooden house. It can be both cutting bars and a metal profile. In this case, thermal expansion is unimportant.

Warming the walls of the house from the outside is only a partial solution to the problem of reducing heat loss. We must not forget about such parts of it as the basement and the foundation (if it rises above the ground). This is where expanded polystyrene comes in handy, and spraying can be done, given the small coverage area, with your own hands. There are special devices, and they are not so expensive. And although in fact they are one-time use (despite the fact that the manufacturers claim otherwise), given the reasonable price, it is possible to implement such an option for warming outside the lower part of a wooden house.
When choosing a variety of mineral wool, it is advisable to focus on products of the "eco" category. From all points of view, for houses made of wood - this is the best option.

How and how to insulate a wooden house from the outside - from materials to installation

Do you have a wooden house? Do you want to figure out how and how it is better to insulate it from the outside? This article explains everything in detail, step by step and gives a number of useful recommendations.

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Features of insulation of the facade of a wooden house. All the nuances of warming an old wooden house, what materials to choose and how to mount it yourself Scheme of warming wooden walls outside

Mineral wool

Styrofoam

Penoplex (polystyrene)

What is the best way to insulate?

Wall insulation

Ceiling

Floor

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

Surface preparation

Laying a vapor barrier

Lathing installation

Installing a heat insulator

Laying the wind protection film

Installation of the crate for fixing finishing materials from the outside

Exterior wall decoration

Possible problems with insulation

Styrofoam

Styrofoam rating for facade

Expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

Mineral wool

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Video - An example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool prices

Sprayed heaters

polyurethane foam

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Video - The technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

How to deal with the required thickness of insulation?

Material options

Expanded polystyrene (foam)

Styrofoam

Warming technology

Surface preparation

Laying a vapor barrier

Material laying

Location of waterproofing

Insulation options

Mineral wool, features of insulation

Styrofoam as a heater

Foam insulation (polystyrene)

Log house insulation technology outside

Advantages of external thermal insulation

Warming methods

What material is better?

We warm a wooden house with our own hands

Proper insulation of a wooden house from the outside

pie wall

The choice of insulation

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

Insulation options

Log house insulation technology outside

How and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside - the choice of materials and installation rules

Helpful information

How to insulate a wooden house

Warming the house from the outside - how to do it

Calculator for calculating the amount of insulation

What else to read

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