Flycatcher flowers: description and care. How to care for a Venus flytrap, and how to feed a "predatory" plant

Venus flytrap, referred to in "academic circles" - Dionea, usually causes a double feeling. On the one hand, this pretty plant, surprising with its unusual shape and coloring, and on the other hand, it frightens with a “toothy jaw” and a predatory, not at all flowery disposition. But in any case, the Venus flytrap will never go unnoticed and always attracts attention. And the owners of this exotic are proud of her no less (or even more) than orchids, azaleas, indoor bananas and pineapples.

Growing and successfully caring for a Venus flytrap is within the power of even beginner flower growers. Despite the exoticism, Dionea is not at all capricious plant and caring for her is a little more complicated than for the usual geraniums, hydrangeas or begonias.

Venus flytrap (Dionea): cultivation and care at home

Location and lighting of the plant

First of all, you need to take care of good lighting. Without getting enough light successful cultivation Venus flytrap is impossible. She absolutely cannot stand his lack. It is highly desirable to even receive some portion of direct sunlight. But especially to get involved bright sun do not do it. Although the bright rays of the sun may not harm the plant itself, the hot midday sun can greatly heat the pot along with the ground, and, accordingly, with the roots. Such overheating can cause significant damage to the flower. When choosing a place to place the Venus flytrap, first of all, you need to be guided by the consideration that for successful growth she needs at least four hours of intense light. Most best option, this place is near the east and west windows. South windows are also suitable, but in this case, shading will be needed especially during hours. scorching sun. The north side is completely unsuitable for keeping a Venus flytrap. But if there is no other way out, then the plant can be illuminated artificially. Special lamps to illuminate the plant are not required. It will be enough to place two fluorescent lamps of 40 watts of power at a distance of 20 centimeters from the flower.

Second important point when choosing a place for a Venus flytrap - an influx of fresh air. Stale, stale air is very harmful to her. In this regard, I would like to note that if the climate in your area allows, then for the summer it is better to take it out into the fresh air altogether.

Important! Before you take your Venus flytrap outdoors, choose permanent place, subject to sufficient lighting, protection from wind and precipitation. This is necessary so that you do not have to rearrange it. During the period active growth She does not love various kinds permutations and rotations.

Watering the plant

The watering of the dionea itself is normal - overdrying of the soil, as well as waterlogging, are undesirable. Let the topsoil dry out between waterings. Bottom watering can be used to avoid unwanted, accidental ingress of moisture into the mouths of the plant. The main thing to pay attention to Special attention when watering dionea - the quality of the water. Ordinary water from the tap is not good, even well-settled. The impurities contained in it, and not precipitated during settling, can seriously harm the Venus flytrap. Only well-filtered water can be used. Distilled, rain and pure snow water is also suitable.

Feeding the Venus Flytrap

If we are already growing a predator plant, then we must take care of feeding it. Almost everything you need useful material it receives from the sun, by photosynthesis. Top dressing is necessary for her mainly to obtain nitrogen. But its excess is no less harmful to the flower than its deficiency. Therefore, it is important not to overfeed. True, the "organism" of the Venus flytrap is designed in such a way that it simply will not accept excess food, but each extra triggering of the trap takes a lot of energy from the plant and weakens it. For the same reason, you should not tease your mouths for the sake of curiosity or mischief, forcing them to slam shut.

Very important!!! No fertilizers can be applied under the plant. For him, they are fatal!

The feeding process itself is the same as for other carnivorous plants (for example, a pitcher plant). That is, not all traps feed, but only one or two. When doing this, follow the order: at the next feeding, give food to other traps.

Note. Each trap feeds three times, after which it dies off, and the process of food processing takes quite a long time (about ten days).

Insects intended for feeding should not be particularly large and must be alive. Otherwise, the process of their processing will not start. The fact is that the traps of the Venus flytrap are equipped with very sensitive hairs. These hairs (the so-called triggers) play the role of indicators of movement and react to the movement of the victim. This allows the plant to distinguish between food and randomly trapped specks. For the same reason, you do not need to feed the Venus flytrap with pieces of meat, sausage and other "inanimate" food. She will not accept it, and that, in turn, will begin to rot in the trap, causing great harm to the flower.

In winter, Dionea retires and does not particularly need feeding, it is relevant only in summer, during the period of active wakefulness. If during this period it costs you fresh air, then she is able to take care of her own food, but the Venus flytrap standing in the room will need to be fed. But more than once every two weeks, this should not be done. It's okay if you suddenly miss a scheduled feeding. Dionea can do without feeding for a long time, about two months. Closed traps indicate that the plant does not need to be fed. Also refrain from it if the Venus flytrap looks sick, depressed, immediately after transplantation or acquisition, with a lack of light.

rest period

It comes at the end of autumn and passes very clearly. The leaves darken and fall off, the whole plant shrinks. Flower growers unfamiliar with this feature of the plant begin to panic and, mistaking a natural phenomenon for the death of the plant, simply throw it away. But this is not only a natural, but also an extremely necessary state of the flower. Wintering of the Venus flytrap should take place in very cool conditions (but not frosty). She does not need lighting at all during this period, so finding a cool place for wintering is not difficult. For this, an insulated but cool loggia, a dry basement, and indeed, any place where you store vegetables stocked up for the winter, is suitable. Even a refrigerator will do. If desired, you can leave it on the windowsill, if it is cool enough there in winter. During the entire dormant period, monitor the condition of the earth in the pot. Often watering the plant during this period is not necessary, and it is harmful. But it should not be allowed to completely dry out either. The ground should only be slightly damp.

Awakening usually begins at the end of winter (in February). It lasts slowly, and only in late spring - early summer does active development begin.

Venus flytrap transplant

Many flower growers do well without this event. This is due to the fact that the soil for the Venus flytrap is neutral, does not contain nutrients and there is no need to renew them. When using water that does not contain salts and the complete exclusion of top dressing, the soil does not become saline, and for this reason it is also not necessary to change it. The need for a transplant may arise during flooding (souring of the soil), plant disease and other troubles. In this case, you can transplant the dionea at any time. If you decide to just change the pot, then it is better to time the transplant to coincide with the spring awakening. Most right time- the end of April. In this case, by the time of active development, the Venus flytrap will come up strong and fully prepared.

As I have already noted, the land for transplantation (planting) should not contain nutrients. For this, either pure peat, or mixed with perlite or sand, is best suited. Choose a pot deep enough. The roots of the plant grow mainly in depth, and their twenty-centimeter length is not uncommon. Also, give preference to white pots. This will protect the earth from overheating during sunny hours.

Important! Be very careful when transplanting. Dionea roots are very fragile and easily damaged.

After transplanting, increase the watering rate and do not rush to immediately put it in a lighted place. Keep the plant in the shade for three to four days.

Reproduction of the Venus flytrap

babes

This is the easiest way to propagate this plant. But they should not be abused. From frequent divisions, Dionea is greatly weakened. You can divide the bush no more than once every three years. The division procedure is not complicated, but requires care and accuracy in order to avoid damage to the roots. The onion selected for separation is carefully cut off with a sharp, disinfected knife. Sections on the mother plant and the separated bulb in without fail sprinkle with wood powder, activated carbon or fungicide (for example - "Fundazol").

seeds

This method is also not particularly complicated and practically does not differ from the same method of propagation of other indoor or garden flowers. But it is used mainly by professionals for breeding purposes or mass production. The main problem of such reproduction, as it may sound strange, is the high probability of flowering of the plant. Although this is natural process, but when growing a Venus flytrap at home, it only harms the plant and can destroy it. The fact is that the development of a huge (half a meter or more) peduncle, the plant consumes a very large amount of energy. Therefore, to maintain a healthy plant, flowering should not be allowed. When a peduncle appears, cut it off without a shadow of a doubt. But at the same time, the flowering of the Venus flytrap can be used as an intermediate stage of reproduction.

Reproduction by peduncle

You can cut it when it reaches a height of 4-5 centimeters. Then it is planted in a pot of peat to a depth of one centimeter and covered with any transparent cap. During the rooting process, keep the soil constantly moist and ventilate it regularly by removing the cap for a few minutes. The rooting process itself is quite lengthy and can take up to two months. After a while, the peduncle may begin to fade and dry out, but this does not mean that nothing happened. Very often, after the withering of the peduncle, young plants sprout.

It is very popular among lovers of home exotics. indoor flower Venus flytrap ( Dionaea muscipula) is an insectivorous plant from the Droseraceae family. Its homeland is South Carolina (USA). Poor in composition and acidic soils forced this amazing flower provide themselves with additional food in the form of insects.

Venus flytrap flower. Home care

Appearance

The flycatcher is a small plant whose height is not more than 20 cm, has 4 to 7 leaves, formed on a bulbous underground stem. Traps are located at the end of each leaf - they are the ones that attract flower growers. Each of them consists of two wings, equipped with spikes along the edges. When they get inside the insect, they slam shut, not giving the victim a chance to get out. The color of the leaves is bright green, juicy. But from the inside, the traps sometimes have a reddish tint.

Blooming venus flytrap at home, usually 1.5-2 months. The flowers are white and rather small, located well above the traps so that the insects pollinating them are not affected.

At the end of flowering, a fruit is formed, which is a box with small black seeds.

The mechanism of action of the flytrap trap

Near the bristles located along the edges of the traps, there are special glands that secrete nectar, thus attracting insects. As soon as an insect enters the trap, it instantly slams shut, and the digestion mechanism immediately starts. After the end of this process, which lasts from 1 to 5 days, depending on the size of the insect, the trap doors open again, and the plant is ready to catch the next victim. After about seven slams (regardless of whether the victim fell into it or not), the trap dies off. Therefore, it is not recommended to force it to work. in vain by growing this plant at home.

Sowing seeds and growing a flycatcher

The flower-predator Venus flytrap is able to reproduce both by leaves, by dividing the bulb, and by seeds. The last way more time-consuming and is carried out in several stages:

  1. In order for the seeds to have a higher germination, stratification is necessary. Wrapped in gauze pre-soaked in solution fungicide(2 drops of the drug per 1 glass of distilled water), the seeds are placed in the refrigerator for 5-7 weeks. It is necessary at this time to ensure that the fabric does not dry out.
  2. After that, the prepared seeds are sown in small containers filled with soil mixture specially designed for predator plants. Seeds spread on the surface, lightly sprinkled with soil. Then the container with them is covered with a plastic transparent bag and placed in a warm, well-lit place.
  3. As soon as the first leaves appear, each plant is carefully transplanted in a separate pot.

Ground Requirements

The Venus flytrap flower prefers acidic soils that are poor in nitrogen. Such conditions ensure the growth of traps, since the plant receives the nitrogen necessary for protein synthesis from the caught insects.

Experienced flower growers are advised to prepare a mixture of peat and perlite(in a ratio of 2:1). In this case, perlite must first be soaked in distilled water for 7-10 days. You can prepare the soil from two parts of high-moor peat with the addition of one part of the washed quartz sand. It is not recommended to use sand other than quartz, as this will lead to the death of the flower.

Watering flycatcher

Caring for the Venus flytrap involves timely soil moisture, which should be done only with pallet. Watering from above often leads to compaction of the soil, and the roots may experience a lack of oxygen. Moss spread on it will help to avoid drying out of the topsoil.


How to grow a venus flytrap. A photo

Suitable for irrigation distilled water. You can also use for these purposes thawed or rain water, the main thing at the same time is to prevent it long-term storage in a metal container.

Lighting

AT vivo prefers to grow in well-lit places Venus flytrap. Caring for her at home requires providing at least 4 hours bright light during the day. Under such conditions, the leaves of the flycatcher acquire the most intense color. If it is not possible to get enough sunlight, it is recommended to use fluorescent lamps as additional lighting. In this case, a number of conditions must be met:

  • lamps must have a power of at least 40 W;
  • the distance to the flower is about 20 cm;
  • the location of the light source should not change;

Venus flytrap at home. A photo

Optimal location to place the flower is windowsill, located on the south side. In summer, you can take the plant out to the balcony for a while. It is important to avoid exposure to direct sunlight for a long time. To scatter light over the flower, gauze is stretched.

Temperature regime

At home, this plant feels great even when the air temperature rises to 40 ° C. However, the Venus flytrap at home can die if the air heats up to 30 ° C and above. In order for the flower to develop normally, it is necessary to ensure that the soil always remains cool. This can be achieved by periodically adding colder water to the pan.

To ensure a normal existence for the plant, it is necessary to create for it for 3-4 months rest period. In autumn, the air temperature is gradually lowered to 5°C. At the same time, daylight hours are also reduced to 8 hours. The best place to place a flycatcher for wintering is a glazed loggia or a greenhouse. Here, plant care will be to maintain the necessary lighting and humidity.

You can put the flower for the winter in the refrigerator, where the temperature should be from 0 to 5 ° C. The plant is pre-sprayed and placed in a bag with holes for ventilation. In this case, lighting is not required, and the substrate is watered no more than once a month.

top dressing

Caring for the Venus flytrap does not include any fertilizer, because this plant is able to get its own food. Only feeding with live insects is allowed, but not more than 3 times for the whole summer period. earthworms, tubifex, bloodworms are not suitable for this - a high moisture content in them can cause rotting of trap leaves. Also, do not feed the flycatcher with insects, the chitinous cover of which is too strong.

Diseases and pests

This plant is practically not attacked by pests, which greatly facilitates its care. Danger can only be aphids and spider mites against which spraying with special preparations is used.

Careful observation of appearance plants will help to recognize this or that problem in time. So, yellowing leaves mean that the water used for irrigation has too high hardness. If the leaves fall at the same time, then the plant does not have enough moisture. Brown spots appear as a result sunburn or as a result of fertilizer application.

One of the most unusual tropical plants is the Venus flytrap, home care for which is quite possible and very interesting. This plant is carnivorous, it eats insects, in features of easy flies, bees and similar species become prey for him. This flower comes from South America, most often it can be found in the peat bogs of South and North Carolina, in New Jersey and Georgia. Scientists believe that this plant should be included in the list of those species that are endangered. Therefore, in nature it is protected and certain sanctions are provided for the destruction of this flower.

Its name is translated from Latin as "mousetrap", but this is not quite the right name for it. Its second name is Dionaea Muscipula, it is believed that it was received in honor of Greek goddess Venus. There is a version that the outwardly opened leaves of the flycatcher are similar to the shell in which the goddess was. This is carnivorous plant quite popular all over the world, and it is planted more often as an exotic and unusual type of plant. In nature, it differs in its size and color of the traps.

But things are quite different with decorative species, this flower can be kept at home, it is more compact, and you can quite successfully grow new and young plants. It is interesting and unusual to observe this plant when it catches insects.

What does a flycatcher look like

The flower itself is small in height, the maximum can reach 15 cm. Each bush has up to 8-10 pcs. traps. They are a small flattened box with long fibers along the edge, outwardly they resemble the teeth of a predator. specific feature of this flower is the ability to close its box when a fly or other insect gets inside. This is how this predator receives the necessary feeding in the form of insects. Inside the traps, the cavity is lubricated with a special juice that secretes Dioneus, it is he who attracts different insects. As soon as the trap closes, the plant begins the process of digestion of food, this happens again with the help of specially secreted juice, which allows you to digest food in 10-12 days. Once the process is complete, the flower pod will re-open to hunt insects.

Dionea blooms late spring, usually it happens in May, its flowers are medium-sized, white color, located on a long handle and slightly rising above the bush itself. The flowering period lasts about 2 months, at the end, in place of the flowers, peculiar capsules are formed, filled with small black seeds. The leaves of this plant are distinguished by a special juiciness and brightness of color, they have a rich green tone.

Dionea has a specific appearance, and it certainly cannot be called a beautiful and sophisticated flower. But with all this, it is unusually interesting in its nature and the specifics of feeding. Precisely because of unusual look they plant a flower in their homes and offices, besides, it is quite unpretentious in its care, but it still requires certain knowledge in this matter.

Flycatcher care at home

Like any other plant, this species requires compliance with certain rules in the process of care and cultivation. For the successful growth of this flower, certain conditions must be observed.

Site selection and lighting

Since Dionea loves moisture and a lot of light in nature, it is necessary to create a similar climate for her at home. Initially, you should choose a well-lit place, it can be a window sill on the south or north side of the house or a glazed loggia. To maintain such a flower garden inside the room, it is worth additionally providing it with artificial lighting; fluorescent lamps are excellent for this. They are placed at a certain height, taking into account the fact that their light will scatter enough large area. In the summer, this predator will feel great on the street, it can be taken out into the garden and placed in a well-lit place, but during periods of intense heat it is better to put it in the shade.

Plant soil and watering

Watering is carried out according to certain requirements, the flower absorbs moisture from the pan, this allows you not to disturb the topsoil and not reduce the level of oxygen in the root system. So that the soil does not dry out, flower growers are placed on top layer moss, it will allow you to retain the necessary moisture. For irrigation use only distilled or settled water. room temperature. It is worth remembering that although the flycatcher loves moisture, constant dampness is detrimental to it, so you need to water the plant as the soil dries up. In the summer, the flycatcher is watered more often, but in the fall, watering is reduced, as the plant is preparing for a dormant period.

Dionea soil loves sour, it can be purchased ready-made in stores and flower shops, or you can make it yourself. To do this, mix 2 parts of peat and 1 part of perlite. The latter must be soaked in water for at least 7 days, this will reduce the level of mineral salts in the composition. You can also use a mixture of 2 parts peat and 2 parts coarse sand.

Transplant and top dressing

Optimal time for this event is early spring or early summer. It is important not to touch the traps during the transplantation process, otherwise they will slam shut for 10 days without getting necessary feeding. To do this, the bush must be held by the stems at its base. A recess is made in the soil and the bulb is placed strictly in the center, gently pouring soil around the circumference. The capacity is chosen spacious enough for the root system, as it likes to grow to the sides, and not in a ball down. Experts recommend repotting the plant once every 2 years, as it does not grow quickly.

Fertilization for this flower is not required, since the main type of top dressing is the insects that it catches. Dionea is able to catch no more than 3-4 flies during the active season. If a ornamental plant cannot get food on his own at home, then the owner should take care of this. It is also worth knowing that you do not need to provoke him to slam the flower, since he will be able to reopen at least a week later, besides, the digestion process will be started automatically, and it takes too much energy to release the juice.

In general, caring for a flycatcher at home is completely simple, even a novice florist can handle it. The main thing is not to violate the basic requirements and take care of the flowers with care and caution so as not to disturb them once again.

flycatcher breeding

For breeding, you can use 3 different methods, this is the division of the root system, reproduction with the help of leaves and seeds.

Separation of the root system should be carried out in the summer. At the beginning of this season, young growths in the form of slices appear at the bulb. As soon as roots appear on them, they can be divided. Each segment serves as a new planting material.

Venus flytrap seeds can be purchased at the store or collected from your flower. A seed is planted to a depth of 5 mm, the pot is taken initially small size, and some even use peat glasses. Moisture must be retained for the first time in the soil, and for this they put on a pot plastic bag. At proper fit these carnivores can give the first shoots in 15-20 days.

You can also use the next option. A leaf from a plant is placed in a glass of water and waiting for the root to appear, as soon as the first threads appear, it can be planted in a small container with sandy-peat soil.

Reproduction by dividing the bulb is considered less troublesome and more efficient.

Dionea wintering

With the onset of cold weather, the flycatcher goes into a dormant period. In order for this period not to be violated and the plant to restore its strength, the following must be done:

  1. It is necessary to provide a certain temperature regime. Optimum temperature it is considered from -10 to +2 ° С. It is not always possible to do this in an ordinary living room, so you can use a balcony or basement.
  2. Watering with sufficient air humidity is stopped completely or carried out once a month, adding water to the pan.
  3. For the dormant period, you need to provide good shading. To do this, special paper is glued to the windows or blinds are closed.
  4. With the onset of spring, they put the dionea in a well-lit place and begin to water it in normal mode. This will allow her to slowly come out of her sleep period.

It is important to remember that this is a rather fragile flower with a quick reaction, you should not disturb it unnecessarily. In the spring, you can independently put insects in traps, this will allow the plant to quickly gain strength for active growth. Before purchasing this exotic flower it is worth learning how to care for him and what features there are in this matter. If everything is done correctly, then the flower will delight with its size and protect housing from annoying insects.

The Venus flytrap flower is a species of carnivorous insectivorous plants of the monotypic genus, which belongs to the sundew family. In its natural habitat, this plant grows in the peat wasp swamps of Georgia, New Jersey, North and South Carolina. The Venus flytrap is listed as an endangered plant in the Americas.

Another name for the flower is Dionea. Dionea was first discovered in 1760. In the same year, the plant was named dionea in honor of the Greek goddess, the mother of Aphrodite - Venus. Among indoor plants The venus flytrap is a fairly popular plant around the world.

Let's take a closer look at the main types of Venus flytrap, as well as the features and care at home.

The flycatcher flower is perennial herbaceous and insectivorous plant, which belongs sundew family. The height of the dionea reaches 15 cm, no more. The flower has a bulbous stem, white inflorescences, which are collected on a long peduncle. Since in its natural habitat the Venus flytrap grows on soils with a low nitrogen content, various mollusks and insects, in particular slugs, serve as a source of this element for the flower.

On a Venus flytrap, as a rule, there are 4-7 leaves that grow from an underground short stem, forming a rosette. Dionea traps are formed after its flowering. The length of one trap can reach from 8 to 15 cm. Traps on a predatory plant Green colour, but in good light you can see their internal cavities of a red tint. These traps are formed at the ends of short petioles, which are assembled into rosettes. The closer to summer time, the longer these petioles become, which gradually take on a vertical position.

Venus flytrap traps consist of two flaps with sparse bristles along the edges, which can slam shut. Inside the trap itself there are glands that produce a special nectar that attracts the victim. Together with the bristles on the edges of the trap, there are 3 triggers, which close when irritated by insects, while the plant secretes a digestive secret.

Digestion of food in a Venus flytrap, as a rule, lasts from 5 to 10 days. After this time, the predatory plant opens its trap. The trap dies after digesting two or three victims, although there have been cases when one trap served as a grave for as many as 7 insects.

Main types

There are a huge variety of varieties of Venus flytrap, among which the most common are the following:

Venus flytrap: home care

How to grow?

It is immediately worth noting that the Venus flytrap can be grown both in a flower bed in the garden and on the windowsill. Growing process this plant has a high degree of complexity. Despite this, caring for a flower is not so difficult, unlike some other exotic plants. Speaking about the care of the Venus flytrap, first of all, it is necessary to organize optimal conditions for its development and growth.

Venus flytrap is recommended to be placed on the windowsill, which is located on the east or west side of the apartment. Every day a flower needs sunbathing, the duration of which should be 5 hours in the morning and / or evening. If the plant does not have enough light, then it is necessary to organize artificial lighting.

A predatory plant is often grown in florariums or terrariums, since this is how the necessary air humidity can be achieved. It should be noted, however, that in such cases artificial lighting is a necessity for the plant. For this, it is recommended to use lamps with a power of at least 40 watts. They are located above the predatory flower at a height of at least 20 cm. The lamps must work daily for 15 hours.

The Venus flytrap does not like stagnant air very much, and also needs constant ventilation. At the same time, drafts should not be allowed in the room in which the plant is contained. Also to be avoided midday sun with direct sunlight. In summer, the Venus flytrap can be taken out to the balcony or terrace. The flower pot does not need to be rotated around its axis in order to achieve uniform illumination, as many flower growers are used to doing with other indoor flowers, since the Venus flytrap does not tolerate any movement.

The most comfortable predatory plant will feel in the summer at an air temperature of 20 to 30 degrees. In winter, the air temperature in the room can drop to 7 degrees.

Watering

The root system of the Venus flytrap does not have the ability to process mineral salts from the soil, so the plants must be watered with soft rainwater. At the same time, it is not recommended to accumulate rainwater in metal containers; plastic buckets can be used for this. If you do not have the opportunity to collect rainwater, you can use distilled water for irrigation.

The soil in the pot of the Venus flytrap should be moist throughout the entire time. Lack of moisture is detrimental to plant traps. In order to moisten the substrate, the pot with the plant can be placed on a tray with enough water so that all the drainage holes located at the bottom are immersed in it. Thus, a predatory flower will be able to independently fill the necessary need for moisture.

Fertilizer

Speaking about caring for a Venus flytrap at home, you should pay attention to the fact that the plant does not need to add any fertilizer to the substrate, as it feeds on insects.

What to feed?

First of all, you need to know that the Venus flytrap is strictly forbidden to feed the following insects:

  • earthworms;
  • Beetles in a hard chitinous shell;
  • Gnawing insects that can damage the trap.

It is also strictly forbidden to feed the plant with meat or sausage, as the traps from this food begin to rot. For the entire growing season, 2-3 live medium-sized flies, mosquitoes or spiders will be enough for the plant. The plant also cannot be fed in the following cases:

  • If it is sick and weakened;
  • If it grew in poor light and in conditions of too humid air;
  • If it has undergone a transplant or other stress.

Feeding flycatcher insects should stop with the onset of September. Such fasting should continue until next spring.

Transfer

Venus flytrap, as a rule, at home it is necessary to transplant every 2-3 years, it is recommended to transplant in spring period. It is recommended to choose a pot for Dionea not wide, but deep, since its root system sometimes reaches 20 cm in length. Caution is recommended during transplantation, since the root system of a carnivorous plant is rather fragile.

  • The flower must be taken out of the pot, root system free from the old soil. If it does not move well from the roots, it must be soaked for several minutes in water. After that, the leaves are washed.
  • The substrate in the new pot should be 4 parts peat, 1 part quartz sand and 2 parts perlite. At the same time, it is worth paying attention to the fact that before mixing the substrate, perlite should be soaked in water for a week, and sand should be boiled in distillate.
  • The Venus flytrap does not need drainage.
  • After transplanting a Venus flytrap, it will take about 5 weeks to adapt to the new substrate, so the plant must be placed in partial shade and watered more frequently.

reproduction

Scientific classification: Area:
Kingdom: Plants
The Department: Flowering
Class: Dicotyledonous
Order: carnations
Family: Rosyankovye
Genus: Dionea
View: Predatory

Care and maintenance of Venus Flytrap (Dionaea muscipula, Dionea Muscipula)

Venus flytrap (lat. Dionaea muscipula) is a species of carnivorous plants from the monotypic genus Dionea of ​​the Rosyankovye family (Droseraceae).

It grows in a humid temperate climate on the Atlantic coast of the United States (Florida, North and South Carolina, New Jersey). Flowering time: from May to July.

This is the only species in the genus. Dionea is a perennial herbaceous insectivorous plant with a short underground stem. The stem is a bulbous rhizome. It blooms with white inconspicuous flowers, collected in an inflorescence on a high peduncle. To obtain seeds, the flowers must be pollinated manually. Leaves vary in size from three to seven centimeters, depending on the time of year, species, long trap leaves usually form after flowering. Grows in soils with a lack of nitrogen, such as sphagnum bogs. Lack of nitrogen is the reason for the appearance of traps: insects serve as a source of nitrogen necessary for protein synthesis. The Venus flytrap is a member of a small group of plants capable of rapid movement.
The leaves are elongated, at the end a cracker is formed, consisting of two flaps along the edges of which there are teeth. On the surface of these plates are sensitive hairs that react to the victim and give the command to collapse the trap. After closing the trap, the juice is released and the digestion process begins, which, depending on the size of the insect, can last from several days to several weeks. Each trap works several times (about 4-7 times), and then dies off.
By winter, the Venus flytrap falls into a dormant period, stops its growth and it seems that it is dying. Remove dried leaves and carefully water the plant, in the spring it will grow again.

Growing a Venus Flytrap step by step (Dionaea muscipula):

Watering. Watering the plant is carried out only in the pan (through the bottom). Water for irrigation should be only distilled (H20), or reverse osmosis (super purified without mineralization).

Tap water, boiled, frozen, from an ordinary filter, cooler, etc. - should not be used in any case - because of this, the plant will die.

Distilled water is available for bottling in pharmacies, in which they prepare their own medicines. This water can also be found in chemical and medical laboratories. Distilled water is sold in auto shops, at gas stations, but keep in mind that their water quality is somewhat worse than pharmacy water, so try to use pharmacy water if possible.

The Venus Flytrap is a swamp plant and does not tolerate dry soil. Do not be afraid to pour the plant - it will happily survive it. Be afraid to dry the plant - it will not tolerate drought.

For irrigation, it is necessary to use high pallets in which a large amount of water is placed. In summer, watering should be intensive. The water level in the pan can reach two-thirds of the height of the pot (ground level in the flowerpot). In the cool season - in autumn and spring, watering should be slightly reduced, and fill the pan by one third of the pot. As the water level drops, top up again. In winter, during the dormant period, moderate watering as the earth clod dries out.

Sometimes you can sprinkle the leaves of Dionea from above with distilled water from a spray bottle, just a little, so that this is not considered watering from above. In the summer it is allowed once a day, in the cool season - once every 5 days, but this is not at all a mandatory procedure.

The soil . should be prepared on the basis of acidic high-moor peat with an acidity of 3.0-4.0 pH. Perlite, before preparing the substrate, must be soaked in distilled water for one and a half to two weeks, draining and replacing the water 3-4 times a week. The substrate is prepared in a ratio of 2:1 or 1:1 (sour peat: perlite). Perlite passes water and air very well, and also does not allow mold to develop. If you do not have the opportunity to prepare such a substrate yourself, then you can purchase it from us. You can also add dry sphagnum to the substrate. Sphagnum will help the substrate retain moisture longer and prevent drying out, and it also acts as an antiseptic, disinfecting the soil.

Flowerpot. For growing Dionea, it is necessary to use only a plastic pot or, so that the water can easily circulate. Planting a plant in ceramic, clay pots is prohibited. The basis of the substrate for Dionea is high-moor sour peat. Ceramics, interacting with such peat, releases harmful salts, which have a very detrimental effect on the plant. Therefore, use only plastic or glass pots. The diameter of the plastic pot is 8-9-10 cm. Very large pots are not needed, since the root of Dionaea muscipula is not large. The plant only drinks with its roots, it receives all nutrition through the leaves. The diameter of a glass flowerpot for a florarium is limited only by the size of the plant and your imagination.

Lighting. Dionaea muscipula is very fond of sunlight. Therefore, a flower pot should be placed on the south window, south balcony, on the south side of the house. In summer, when the sun becomes very intense, you can make dissected lighting for the plant, that is, use mesh material to cut the sun's rays. To do this, you can use light shading nets, gauze, mosquito net and the like, otherwise, out of habit, the plant may have burns, but it will gradually adapt itself to the sun's rays, become strong, and in the second half of summer these nets must be removed. With a lack of light, the leaves of the Dionea can stretch unnecessarily, and eventually the flycatcher can stop growing crackers, become exhausted and die. Dissected sunbeams are acceptable, but not shading. At least a plant per day should receive 4-5 hours of direct sunlight and the rest of the daylight hours should be diffused bright light. But the more time the plant will stand in direct sunlight, the better.

If it is not possible to grow a plant from the south side, then you can illuminate it with very bright lamps, daylight or flora, with a minimum power of 3500 lumens - full daylight hours - 12-16 hours with a lamp, 8 hours - night, without a lamp. You can find high-quality lamps for the Venus Flytrap.

Predatory plants do not really like it when they are twisted around an axis, so it is advisable to make some kind of mark on the pot regarding the cardinal direction and always try to adhere to this direction.

Feeding. For any carnivorous plants, insects are fertilizers. In order for the Venus Flytrap to live and develop well, it does not need to eat so much, only 3-4 insects per year. If there is a desire to feed the plant, then you need to remember that you cannot overfeed it, because. it can be oversaturated with fertilizers from the eaten insects. You can feed it only with live insects. The insect must move by stimulating the sensors inside the firecracker. Only in this case, the plant will produce an enzyme that will draw out all the beneficial substances from the insect. In no case should you feed meat, cottage cheese, etc., from this the plant will die. You need to feed the Venus flytrap no more than once every 3-4 weeks - just one insect in one cracker! If the plant caught the insect on its own, violating the feeding schedule, then it is not necessary to select the prey. Prey is usually digested from 2 days to a month, depending on the size and density of the insect. The plant from the insect sucks the necessary nutrients, and chitin remains. After the plant has pulled out everything useful from the prey, the cracker opens and only a cracker from the insect remains in it. If the insect is very large and did not completely fit into the cracker, or at the time of eating there was a very high air temperature, then this cracker may darken, but you should not worry, the plant will still have time to get food and grow many new crackers.

Humidity and air temperature. Humidity 45-70%, as for most indoor plants. Home conditions are acceptable. The air temperature in summer is 25-35 °C, in winter +2...+7 °C. Needs a period of rest (wintering).

Wintering. Dionaea muscipula needs wintering (rest period). Dionea - plant temperate climate, so the change of seasons is inherent in it by nature. Without this dormant period, the plant will be weak and may die. It is best that wintering takes place in the shortest sunny days(late autumn-winter). You can also navigate by the weather - with the advent of cold weather, you can prepare for wintering. Up to this point, all these plants can live wonderfully outdoors all season (outdoors, in the yard, on the balcony, on the window). When the temperature drops to +7...+5, then it's time for wintering. Usually it is November. We treat the plant with a fungicide so that mold does not form - Fundazol is very suitable. To do this, it is enough to spray intensively the plant and soil from the spray gun. A pot with a plant without a pallet can be packed in a plastic bag, a zip bag or a plastic container, it is necessary to leave or make small holes so that a little oxygen enters. About once every 2 weeks you need to check the condition of the soil moisture and the absence of mold. The substrate in the pot should be slightly damp. Do not under any circumstances dry out. If there is not enough moisture, add a little water from above under the root. For wintering, plants can be placed in a cellar, basement, on a glazed balcony, etc. The main condition for wintering is a low temperature ranging from +2 to +7 degrees. Higher temperatures are not suitable as high temperatures the plant does not slow down the vegetation and it does not fully rest. The refrigerator is usually stable +5, so this is the ideal temperature. Lighting during the wintering period for Dionea is not needed at all, provided that the temperature is below +7 ° C. During the dormant period, Dionea can lose all her opened leaves - this is not scary. The most important thing in a plant is the health of the rhizome (bulb). As soon as she gets into heat and good lighting, she will begin to dissolve new firecrackers.

The wintering period for a baby is 1.5-4 months, for a teenager - 2.5-4 months, mature plant winters 3-4 months,
Exit from wintering - as soon as the plant has spent the necessary period at rest, we take them out to heat, put them in a pan with water in bright light and continue to care as usual.

Transfer. A carnivorous plant must be repotted once a year. It is most convenient to do this immediately after a period of rest. A transplant is needed in order to renew the soil with the necessary acidity, as soil deoxidation occurs over time. If over the past year the plant has given children, then you can plant them in separate pots.

Bloom. In spring, the adult Venus Flytrap blooms. The first peduncle must be cut off when it just begins to grow. The first flowering takes too much strength from young plant and it may die. Let the plant get stronger as much as possible, grow a larger rhizome, and next year flowering will not be so exhausting for Dionea. The second peduncle can be left, but then your plant will not be very large, since flowering and seed formation takes a lot of energy from him. If the peduncle is cut off, then the plant will be powerful with large leaves -

crackers.

Sheet change. Dionea has a constant change of sheet. Old leaves die from below, and new ones grow from the center. Leaves that have clapped their reserve of cotton also die off. Each flapper leaf fires 4-7 times, then dies off. Therefore, you do not need to make the plant clap crackers for fun. When the leaves die, they turn black and dry. It is not necessary to cut them without fail, but you can do this to make the plant look more aesthetically pleasing. It is useful to know that it is impossible to pull out blackened leaves, because. the leaf can come off with a part of the rhizome, so it will be damaged and will not give children. Blackened leaves must be cut off, leaving 0.5 cm from the beginning of growth.

The color of a healthy leaf in Dionaea muscipula can range from completely green to reddening of the "mouth" of the cracker. It depends on the time of year, lighting, substrate composition and temperature, in some cases on the Dionei variety. Temperature regime in this case, these are fluctuations in day and night temperatures. The greater the temperature difference, the more likely it is that the inside of the cracker will turn red.

Diseases. Dionea is constantly in humid environment and therefore prone to disease. various types rot and fungus.

Biofungicide for protecting plants from fungal and bacterial diseases.

Fungicide and disinfectant with a wide spectrum of action against a large number fungal diseases.

Insecticide of intestinal contact action. Very effective from small insects settled in the substrate.

If you grow Dionaea muscipula in accordance with the above conditions, then you will have strong healthy plants that will delight you. long years. At proper care Dionaea muscipula lives for 20-30 years and during this time it multiplies many times.

Growing from seeds

Plant seeds are very small and special care is needed when working with them.
Seeds of Dionaea require cold stratification for 4-6 weeks (temperature +2°...+7°C).
The seeds are placed on a cotton pad or a napkin moistened with a fungicide solution, placed in a closed container or a zip bag, tightly closed so that the humidity is as high as possible and the seeds are in a humid environment. Placed in the refrigerator and make sure that mold does not appear, periodically add a weak solution of the fungicide, or you can spray the container from the spray bottle to prevent mold. During this period, the seeds do not change outwardly, do not germinate and do not swell.
At the end of stratification, the seeds must be placed on the surface of the substrate in a pre-spilled fungicide. Do not bury seeds from above. Close the mini-greenhouse with a lid and put it in a pan with distilled water on a southern windowsill, or under a phytolamp (minimum 3500 Lumens) for 14-16 hours/day. Germinate at a temperature of 20-25 ° C, at high humidity air and good light for 4 - 6 weeks, germination may take up to several months. You need to water only in the pan. The plants are marsh, so it is necessary that there is always a little water in the pan, about 1-1.5 cm. After the seedlings have reached a size of 1-2 cm, they must be transplanted into separate pots. For transplanting, you can use tweezers and a toothpick.

Planting a plant

1. Wet the substrate thoroughly with distilled water or a fungicide solution based on distilled water.
2. Place the moistened substrate in a plastic pot, filling it to the very brim, to the top. It is not necessary to compact the substrate very tightly.
3. Make a deep hole in the center.
4. When transplanting a plant from a pot or from a mini-greenhouse - with tweezers, after loosening the substrate, carefully remove the plant with roots. Be careful, the roots are thin and long.
5. In the hole made in the substrate, carefully lower the entire root system and the rhizome of the plant (bulb, light part) in the center of the pot. It is very important that the rhizome of the plant is well buried. Try to touch the root of the plant as little as possible with your hands. For these purposes, it is very convenient to use tweezers or medical gloves.
6. Bury the remaining hole near the root and rhizome. The plant does not need to be fertilized. The substrate should be placed horizontally along the very edge of the pot. written permission from the administration. Otherwise, any reprint, copying and use of site materials (even with a link to the original) is a violation of the "Law on Copyright and Related Rights" and entails legal proceedings in accordance with the Civil and Criminal Codes of Ukraine.

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