Knife from an old disk. Circular saw blade

Do you want to create unique knife? Do you need a wood chisel or a sharp blade for hunting? Do it yourself good product more than real. The main thing is to have the skill of working with metal and know what you want.

Making a knife: where to start?

Prepare everything first necessary details and tools, put them in one place. Decide exactly what material you will use. If you need a sharp and durable product, make a knife from a saw.

Take the blank. A wood or metal saw blade is best suited for this purpose. As a material for making a handle for a blade, use wood (any wood you wish), textolite, or plexiglass.

What tools are needed in the knife making process?

To get started and make a knife from a metal saw, you will need:

• file;
• electric drill;
• marker;
• ruler;
• sandpaper;
• surface polishing paste;
• copper or aluminum for rivets.

How to make a blank?

Let's figure out how to make a knife from a saw. Prepare a metal sheet for making a blade. Draw a blank of the future tool on it, using a marker for this purpose.

Remember that a knife is considered a bladed weapon if the length of the blade exceeds 2/3 of the total length of the product. If you incorrectly construct a knife from a saw and it is regarded as a bladed weapon, expect punishment.

Having outlined the outline of the future product, start cutting out the shape. It is important to draw the shape so that the cutting part of the future product is located in the area of ​​the saw teeth. Due to the alignment of the saw, if you make a butt in this place, you will have to do additional work to grind down the bulge.

What to consider when getting started

Don't start sharpening your knife without practicing. Take an ordinary piece of metal and try to process it. Damaging a piece of hardware is not as scary as losing it good preparation. You must not only regulate the pressure when turning, but also monitor the temperature so as not to overheat the iron. High temperature not only spoils the appearance of the metal. Even if it does not change in appearance, its structure may be seriously damaged: the metal will become much softer and more fragile. A knife made from low-quality metal will have to be sharpened more often.

To check whether the iron has started to overheat, drop a couple of drops of water on the workpiece. If it evaporates immediately, quickly cool the workpiece for the future blade. To avoid possible troubles associated with overheating of the metal, place a container of water near the machine and periodically cool the future knife from the saw.

Working with a workpiece

Having formed the basis of the future knife, proceed to the most important and difficult stage of the work - removing the slopes. The bevel is a surface on a knife that gradually tapers towards the blade. The purpose of the knife directly determines the angle and width of the bevels. Therefore, choose the average value if you want to get out of the saw.

Before starting to work on the machine, draw the expected slopes on the metal sheet using a marker. Grind carefully, slowly, so as not to spoil the future knife. It is recommended, as in the previous step, to practice on a spare part. The slopes must be symmetrical and lie at the same angle on both sides. In this case, the blade should not be sharpened: leave an indent of approximately 0.25 mm.

To sharpen the blade, use sandpaper of 8-10 hardness number for such purposes. It is better to sharpen a knife from a metal saw on a wooden block. To prepare a makeshift sharpener, take a block and glue sandpaper to it.

Using coarse sandpaper, you will give the blade the necessary sharpness, and using a finer sandpaper, you will polish the metal blade completely.

At the final stage of processing, polish the blade. Same wooden block cover with felt or leather, rub and polish until you achieve the desired effect.

How to make a knife handle

The easiest way is to glue a handle from two cut and prepared pieces of wood or plexiglass. It is much easier to make than attaching it to the tail of a knife. Naturally, you can choose a simple option and wrap the handle with electrical tape, but why try so hard to end up ruining the aesthetic appearance of the knife?

And now comes the most crucial stage of work. Since you will have to drill in the shank of the knife, the blade can easily burst. Therefore, be vigilant and careful.

Steel is a hard, but at the same time brittle material. If the pressure is evenly distributed when the saw is in operation, it is almost impossible to break it. But with spot drilling, the pressure increases and the metal can easily crack. Therefore, it is better to drill a hole at low machine speeds and do not forget to add oil to the drilling site. In this case, the screwdriver - perfect tool to achieve the set goal, since it has fewer revolutions, the possibility of the part breaking is not so high.

After completing the previous step and making holes in the handle, drill the same holes in the halves of the handle. Make a copper or aluminum rivet. For insurance, you can glue the area where the rivet will be located with glue, but it is better if you have epoxy resin.

Is it possible to simplify the process?

Craftsmen say that the hole can be made without the use of drilling tools. The blade together with the shank is covered with a layer of varnish. Where there should be a hole, you need to clean the surface of the varnish. You should place a knife from a wood saw in an electrolyte solution and lower a wire with a negative charge into the container with the workpiece, and connect the positive one to a power source, which can be used as a regular battery.

As a result of such an impact, you will get a hole in the metal, although it will not be perfectly round, but you definitely won’t be able to damage the blade in this way.

Other part processing methods

If for some reason you can’t make a knife out of it, no required material- replace it. Well suited for blade making car spring, the metal of which is softer than that of a saw. To process such a workpiece, you do not have to use a sharpener, but you will need a metal saw to cut out the shape of the blade. Since metal is easier to process, the edges of the workpiece can be adjusted with a file. It will take longer to make a knife this way, because each stage of processing involves manual work.

Making a knife from a saw is a labor-intensive process, but the result is worth it. By making a knife from a saw with your own hands, you will receive a high-quality and unique blade.

: manufacturing features

Want to create a unique knife? Do you need a wood chisel or a sharp blade for hunting? Making a good product with your own hands is more than possible. Main. have the skill to work with metal and know what you want.

Making a knife: where to start?

First, prepare all the necessary parts and tools, put them in one place. DIY saw blade knife. Do-it-yourself fultang knife. How to drill a bellows saw. Decide exactly what material you will use. If you need a sharp and durable product, make a knife from a saw.

Take the blank. A wood or metal saw blade is best suited for this purpose. As a material for making a handle for a blade, use wood (any wood you wish), textolite, or plexiglass.

What tools are needed in the knife making process?

To get started and make a knife from saws for metal, you will need:

• file;
• electric sharpener;
• electric drill;
• marker;
• ruler;
• sandpaper;
• surface polishing paste;
• copper or aluminum for rivets.

How to make a blank?

Let's figure out how to make a knife from a saw. Prepare a metal sheet for making a blade. Draw a blank of the future tool on it, using a marker for this purpose.

Remember that a knife is considered a bladed weapon if the length of the blade exceeds 2/3 of the total length of the product. If you design a knife incorrectly from... saws and it will be regarded as a bladed weapon - expect punishment.

Having outlined the outline of the future product, start cutting out the shape. It is important to draw the shape so that the cutting part of the future product is located in the area of ​​the saw teeth. Due to the alignment of the saw, if you make a butt in this place, you will have to do additional work to grind down the bulge.

What to consider when getting started

Don't start sharpening your knife without practicing. Take an ordinary piece of metal and try to process it. Ruining a piece of hardware is not as bad as losing a good piece of equipment. You must not only regulate the pressure when turning, but also monitor the temperature so as not to overheat the iron. High temperature not only spoils the appearance of the metal. Even if it does not change in appearance, its structure may be seriously damaged: the metal will become much softer and more fragile. knife from circular saw made from low-quality metal will have to be sharpened more often.

To check whether the iron has started to overheat, drop a couple of drops of water on the workpiece. If it evaporates immediately, quickly cool the workpiece for the future blade. To avoid possible troubles associated with overheating of the metal, place a container of water near the machine and periodically cool the future knife from the saw.

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Working with a workpiece

Having formed the basis of the future knife, proceed to the most important and difficult stage of the work - removing the slopes. The bevel is a surface on a knife that gradually tapers towards the blade. The purpose of the knife directly determines the angle and width of the bevels. Therefore, choose the average value if you want to get a universal knife from saws.

Before starting to work on the machine, draw the expected slopes on the metal sheet using a marker. Grind carefully, slowly, so as not to spoil the future knife. It is recommended, as in the previous step, to practice on a spare part. The slopes must be symmetrical and lie at the same angle on both sides. In this case, the blade should not be sharpened: leave an indent of approximately 0.25 mm.

To sharpen the blade, use sandpaper. For such purposes, sandpaper of 8-10 hardness is best suited. It is better to sharpen a knife from a metal saw on a wooden block. To prepare a makeshift sharpener, take a block and glue sandpaper to it.

Using coarse sandpaper, you will give the blade the necessary sharpness, and using a finer sandpaper, you will polish the metal blade completely.

At the final stage of processing, polish the blade. Cover the same wooden block with felt or leather, rub it with GOI paste and polish until you achieve the desired effect.

How to make a knife handle

The easiest way is to glue a handle from two cut and prepared pieces of wood or plexiglass. It is much easier to make than attaching it to the tail of a knife. How to make a knife from a saw with your own hands? Features of making tourist knives from a circular saw blade and a metal saw. Naturally, you can choose a simple option and wrap the handle with electrical tape, but why try so hard to end up ruining the aesthetic appearance of the knife?

And now comes the most crucial stage of work. Since you will have to drill in the shank of the knife, the blade can easily burst. Therefore, be vigilant and careful.

Steel. hard, but at the same time brittle material. If the pressure is evenly distributed when the saw is in operation, it is almost impossible to break it. But with spot drilling, the pressure increases and the metal can easily crack. Therefore, it is better to drill a hole at low machine speeds and do not forget to add oil to the drilling site. Circular table from a hand-held circular saw with your own hands. In this case, a screwdriver. an ideal tool for achieving the goal, since it has fewer revolutions, the possibility of part failure is not so high.

After completing the previous step and making holes in the handle, drill the same holes in the halves of the handle. Make a copper or aluminum rivet. For insurance, you can glue the area where the rivet will be located with glue, but it is better if you have epoxy resin.

Is it possible to simplify the process?

Craftsmen say that the hole can be made without the use of drilling tools. The blade together with the shank is covered with a layer of varnish. Where there should be a hole, you need to clean the surface of the varnish. You should place a knife from a wood saw in an electrolyte solution and lower a wire with a negative charge into the container with the workpiece, and connect the positive one to a power source, which can be used as a regular battery.

As a result of such an impact, you will get a hole in the metal, although it will not be perfectly round, but you definitely won’t be able to damage the blade in this way.

Other part processing methods

If for some reason you are unable to make a knife from a metal saw, you do not have the necessary material. replace it. A car spring, the metal of which is softer than that of a saw, is well suited for making a blade. To process such a workpiece, you do not have to use a sharpener, but you will need a metal saw to cut out the shape of the blade. Since metal is easier to process, the edges of the workpiece can be adjusted with a file. It will take longer to make a knife this way, because each stage of processing involves manual work.

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The first cutting tools made by man were made of stone. The ancestors of modern knives were very fragile and required a lot of time and labor to manufacture. The metal blade is devoid of these main disadvantages. Steel is relatively easy to process and has good physical characteristics.

A knife made by yourself is the pride of the owner. At self-production those characteristics that are necessary are selected. First of all, this is the shape of the blade and handle. The highest quality blades, such as damask steel or Damascus steel, are made by forging. The blade material has the necessary hardness and carbon content.

But forging requires certain tools and skills. What should you do if you want to make your own unique blade, but only have a minimal set of tools at hand? In this case, you should pay attention to a circular saw as a blank for the blade. The metal from which the canvas is made circular saw It lends itself well to hardening and has the necessary elasticity, so the saw will be the optimal workpiece for making a knife with your own hands. A homemade knife made from a circular saw holds an edge well, does not break, and can easily compete with industrial knives.

Creating a knife layout

The first step is to create a model of the future knife from a saw. At this stage of work, you can decide on the shape of the blade of the future blade and the shape of the handle. The layout is best made from thick cardboard or thin plywood. You can also use thick plastic. A rigid pattern will allow you to understand how a knife from a circular saw will lie in your hand and how convenient it will be to use.

When making a layout, it is important to adhere to the following rules:

• Right angles must be avoided. A right angle is a place of stress concentration. The blade of the knife most often breaks or cracks in this place.
• The shape of the blade must be chosen based on the purpose of the future knife. The most versatile forms are those with straight or descending butts. Such a blade can cut and stab equally well.
• The dimensions of the layout must correspond to the size of the circular saw blade.

When making a model, you should also remember that a knife can be classified as a bladed weapon. It all depends on the shape and size. Manufacturing and possession of bladed weapons is criminally punishable. Therefore, in order not to fall under the article of the criminal code, it is necessary to create a layout that complies with the following rules:

• The length of the blade or cutting part should not exceed 9 centimeters. Exceeding this length even by 1 mm will allow you to classify a homemade blade as a bladed weapon.
• A knife with a blade thickness of more than 2.6 mm is also a bladed weapon. This parameter can be neglected, since the thickness of the saw blade is usually 2 mm.
• Hardness should not be more than 42 units. This parameter relates to hardening, so we also skip it at the stage of making the pattern.
• The handle should have a limiter that protrudes beyond its limits by no more than half a centimeter. If there is no limiter, then the sub-finger recess should be less than 4 mm deep.

Once a layout that satisfies the letter of the law and personal preferences has been drawn, you can proceed to transfer the layout to the saw blade. The pattern is applied to the saw blade and outlined with a marker. It's best to use a fine marker. A thin line will allow you to cut the workpiece more accurately and avoid unnecessary filing of the workpiece.

Cutting and primary processing of the workpiece

The fastest way to cut a workpiece is with a grinder with a thin metal cutting disc. If it is not possible to use a grinder, you can use a hand hacksaw for metal. It is important to correctly install the file into the hacksaw. The teeth of the saw should be directed forward and the hacksaw should cut while moving away from you.

First, the approximate shape of the knife is cut out using straight cuts. Then the bends are cut out. The easiest way to cut them is with several oblique cuts converging at one point. It is important to leave an allowance of 2-3 millimeters to the drawn outline. This is due to the fact that when using a grinder, the metal at the cutting site overheats. By grinding off 2–3 mm using a file and sandpaper, you can remove the overheated edge of the metal.

Giving the workpiece its final shape

The rough workpiece is brought to its final shape using a file or emery. To avoid overheating of the future knife from the saw, when processing it with sandpaper, it is necessary to periodically lower it into a container with water. This will allow the workpiece to cool. When processing a workpiece with a file, no additional cooling is required. The most optimal way would be to roughly process the workpiece on sandpaper, and then fine-tune it with a file.

During final processing, you should special attention pay attention to the smoothness of the bends. It is important to ensure that the bend is smooth, without depressions or bulges. Miniature depressions can be easily checked with a file. To do this, use a marker to paint over the end of the workpiece being checked. Next, apply a file with light pressure along the workpiece along the entire bend. There are depressions in the places where the marker trace remains.

Processing continues until not a single depression remains.

Next, the workpiece is cleared of burrs and sanded using sandpaper. You can start with 60 grit and finish with 320 grit. The workpiece will still be subjected to heat treatment, so finishing the blade will be polished later.

Shank drilling

The handle on the shank can be secured with rivets or glue. The most reliable option for attaching the handle is to use rivets. To install them, you need to make holes in the shank. The holes are marked on the shank so that they are located approximately in the middle of the future handle. To prevent the drill from slipping on initial stage drilling - punching holes.

Due to the fact that the circular saw is made of alloy tool steel, it will not be so easy to drill. Regular drills for metal they won't last long here.

Drilling should be done with cobalt drills or a ceramic drill with a pobedite tip.

During the drilling process, it is important to add oil to the drilling area and not allow the drill to overheat.

Drilling through hardened steel is quite a difficult task. Therefore, it is possible to produce holes in the shank using an electrochemical method. To do this, attach a wire to the workpiece, then completely cover the shank bitumen mastic or plasticine. In places of future holes protective layer scratch down to bare metal. Next, getting ready saturated solution table salt, into which the blade shank with a wire and an unnecessary metal plate, also with a wire, are lowered. Both wires connect to the battery or car charger. A “plus” is applied to the future knife from a circular saw, and a “minus” is applied to the plate. The etching process is accompanied by the release of gas. In 30–50 minutes the holes will be ready.

Forming the cutting edge

Before you start forming cutting edge, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. It consists of applying markings on the edge of the workpiece. The markings are placed exactly in the center and serve as a guide for making a symmetrical descent.

To do this, paint over the edge that will be cutting with a marker and, using a drill equal in thickness to the workpiece, scratch the markings. The drill has a conical sharpening. Therefore, if you place the drill and the workpiece on the same plane, the tip of the drill will be exactly in the middle.

Then, using a coarse file, you can begin shaping the cutting edge. If you do not have the proper skill to create a smooth edge, you can use simple device. It consists of a base, an angle and a guide with a platform for sandpaper. 180-grit sandpaper is glued onto the platform with the guide. Several holes must be pre-drilled vertically one above the other in the corner. The knife is fixed flat on the base and the guide is inserted into the hole at that height so that the angle between the plane of the base and the platform with sandpaper was the one chosen to form the slopes. A universal angle is from 22 to 30 degrees.

Having made an even descent to the middle of the thickness of the workpiece, turn the knife over, then make the same descent on back side. Using such a simple device, you can easily form an even blade.

Thus, a finished blade with a given sharpening angle is obtained. But at this stage the blade is only conditionally ready. It does not have the necessary hardening to confidently hold an edge. And also it has not undergone a tempering procedure to reduce fragility. Essentially, this is a semi-finished knife from a saw, which you can already use, but it’s better to take a few more steps.

Hardening

Heat treatment will give the knife the necessary hardness; it will not become dull during use.

To harden the knife from the saw, it is necessary to heat it to a temperature of 750–920 degrees. If you do not reach this temperature, the steel will not be hardened, and if it is heated too much, the blade will be too brittle.

At home, it is not possible to determine the exact temperature. However, there is a way out. A simple magnet is suitable for temperature control. As soon as the blade blank stops being magnetic, it is heated to the required temperature.

After the temperature of the workpiece has reached the required limits, it must be kept in this state for approximately 1-1.5 minutes for every 1 mm of thickness. In case homemade knife from the saw, the holding time for hardening is 3–5 minutes. This will be enough. Next, the workpiece is lowered into a vegetable or preheated to 50 degrees machine oil. This procedure should be performed carefully. Oil vapors can ignite from a hot workpiece, so you should have a fire extinguisher on hand.

A little about the hardening forge. If you use industrial equipment is not possible, then the forge can be made with your own hands. To do this, it is necessary to build a fire of such a size that it is possible to evenly heat the workpiece. Next, as the firewood burns and coals appear, a homemade knife is placed on them. You can use a household hair dryer or a pump for inflating mattresses as bellows.

Vacation

After hardening, the blade must be released. This procedure is carried out with the aim of reducing fragility, as well as giving the saw blade high elasticity. To temper, the blade is cleaned with sandpaper from scale formed during the hardening process and placed in regular oven, heated to 190 degrees. There the blade is kept for an hour, then the oven heating is turned off.

The knife should cool smoothly to room temperature.

After this procedure, the workpiece has the necessary hardness and elasticity.

Sawing out the handle blank and preparing for gluing

To finish working with the knife, you need to make a handle. There may be different variations of materials used as a handle. Most popular material- this is a tree. The wooden handle is impregnated linseed oil to prevent the harmful effects of moisture on it.

Select a flat plank from the wood of your favorite species. The thickness of the board should be at least half a centimeter for convenience. A thick board can be sawn lengthwise. Using the knife blank as a template, markings are applied to the board, including holes for rivets. For a good fit of the future handle to the shank, it is necessary to create a plane of contact using sandpaper.

Forming the upper part of the handle

The upper part of the handle is prepared in advance for the reason that after gluing the handle to the shank, processing the upper part will be difficult. Also, during the processing process, you can scratch the blade, which is extremely undesirable. Holes for rivets are drilled according to the markings made during the preparation process. A rod is inserted into them suitable diameter. It allows you to firmly connect both parts of the workpiece and will not allow them to move during processing.

Forming occurs using files and sandpaper. At this stage it is important to remember permissible dimensions limiter, sub-finger notch.

The final processing is carried out using 800-grit sandpaper. Before gluing, all parts must be thoroughly degreased. This can be done with acetone or solvent. Once the degreaser has dried, glue or epoxy can be applied.

Manufacturing of rivets

The adhesive attachment of the handle to the shank is not reliable. To avoid breaking the handle, the wooden plates must be fastened with rivets. The rivets are made of metal that is not subject to corrosion. These can be alloys of non-ferrous metals or stainless steel. You can also use a copper or brass tube as rivets.

A blank for the future riveting is sawn off from a rod of suitable length. It should be 2–3 millimeters longer than the thickness of the handle. Holding the rivet in a vice, use a hammer to flare one end. It should look like a mushroom at one end of the rod. Next, the rivet, pre-lubricated epoxy glue, is inserted into the holes in the handle and is also flared on the other side of the handle. To flare a rivet made from a tube, it is best to use a ball from a bearing.

Giving the handle the desired shape

After the glue has dried, begin processing the handle. First, using a needle file, grind off the protruding parts of the riveting. Then the piece of wood is shaped using a coarse rasp. First, the profile of the knife handle is formed. Grind down the wood until the metal of the shank appears. Then the sharp corners are ground down and the handle is given a shape that fits well in the hand.

Sanding and varnishing a knife handle

Final sanding is done using sandpaper. Gradually increasing the grain size, it is necessary to remove all rough marks from paper of a larger grain size. It is enough to complete the process of sanding the knife handle with 600 grit paper. The last step in making the handle will be its impregnation.

There are several ways to impregnate a handle to better preserve it. This is oil impregnation, wax impregnation or varnish coating.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, wax must first be melted by heating it, and heating has a detrimental effect on the strength of the glue that glues the handle. Oils must be updated periodically. And the varnish serves only the function of surface protection.

The final feature when making a knife from a circular saw will be its final sharpening. For this, it is best to use a sanding block made from a wooden plank. Sandpaper of 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit is glued onto smooth boards, one grit on each side. A piece of leather is also glued to the board for straightening the sharpening. With a little practice, as well as gaining skill, you can sharpen a knife so that it will cut paper by weight and shave hair.

Just like that, having a minimum of tools and skills, but possessing necessary knowledge, you can make an excellent knife from a circular saw. The characteristics of a homemade knife from a circular saw are often higher than store-bought analogues in the budget segment. Is there still space left on the saw blade after making one knife? We should make another knife!

How to make a knife from a saw with your own hands

Making a knife from a saw with your own hands, you can have at your disposal a cutting device whose performance is much better than its factory counterparts. Making a knife with your own hands, he is given exactly the form that best suits the owner. Factory knives are beautiful, but not always reliable. There is no guarantee that they will not fail at the most crucial moment.

Household knife with disk A wood hacksaw or metal saw will last for many years, regardless of storage and use conditions. Think about how to make a knife from metal parts factory production, what is necessary for this and what needs to be given special attention.

Tools and materials

The raw material for making a homemade knife can be any new or old cutting part made of hardened steel. It is better to use metal cutting blades, hand-held and pendulum saw blades as workpieces. A good option is an old chainsaw. From your chain you can forge and cut a blade of quality and appearance that is not inferior to the famous Damascus steel.

To make a knife with your own hands, you will need the following equipment and materials:

• Bulgarian;
• meat grinders;
• electric drill;
• ruler;
• hammer;
• sandpaper;
• grinding rods;
• files;
• core;
• epoxy glue;
• copper wire;
• marker;
• bucket of water.

Separately, you need to think about the handle. The finished product should fit comfortably in your hand.

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To make a handle, it is better to use:

• non-ferrous metal (copper, bronze, brass, silver);
• wood (oak, alder, birch);
• organic glass (plexiglass, polycarbonate).

The raw materials for the pen must be intact, without cracks, rotting or other defects.

Rules for working with metal

In order for the blade to be strong and elastic, during its manufacturing process it is necessary to follow the rules of working with metal. They are as follows:

1. Forms must not have visible or hidden damage. Before making a knife, you need to check and seal the gaps. A solid part sounds sonorous, but a defective part sounds boring.
2. Angles must be avoided when designing the blade shape. In such places the steel can break. All transitions must be smooth, without kinks. Interface sections, handles and fuse must be grounded at right angles.
3. When cutting and honing, the steel cannot be overheated. This leads to a decrease in its strength. An overheated blade becomes brittle or soft. During processing, the workpiece must be constantly cooled by completely immersing it in a bucket of cold water.
4. When making a knife from a saw blade, you must remember that this product has already gone through a hardening cycle. Factory saws are designed to work with the hardest alloys. As long as you don't overheat the blade during the turning and finishing process, you don't need to soften it.

knife from circular DIY Tiger saws

How to make a knife from disk saws

The blade shank cannot be too thin. It is on this part of the product that the greatest load will be placed.

Making a knife from canvas

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If the canvas is large and does not have much wear, then you can make several blades from it for various purposes. The energy and time spent are worth it.

Knife from circular saw performed in the following sequence:

1. Fabric is placed on the canvas and the contours of the blade are outlined. Scratches or dotted lines are placed over the marker. This way, the design will not be removed when cutting the workpiece and adjusting it to the desired shape.
2. The blanks are cut from a circular saw blade. To do this, it is better to use a crusher with a metal disk. Leave at a distance of 2 mm from the outline. This is necessary to remove material burned by the Bulgarian. If grinders are not at hand, then the workpiece can be cut using a vice, hammer and chisel, or a hacksaw for metal.
3. On grinding machine everything unnecessary is worn out. This process will take a long time to avoid hitting the steel. To prevent this from happening, the workpiece should be regularly immersed in water until it cools completely.
4. Blade is planned. Here you need to be careful to maintain the contour of the knife, not burn it and maintain a 20º angle.
5. All straight sections are aligned. It is convenient to do this by applying the workpiece to. The transitions have a rounded shape.
6. The part is cleared of burrs. The blade is ground and polished. To do this, the grinding machine uses several interchangeable wheels.

Separately, we must dwell on how the feather is made. If wood is used, a monolithic fragment is taken, in which longitudinal cuts are made and through holes. After this, the disk is inserted into the blade, holes for fixation are marked in it. The handle is fixed to the blade using rivets or bolts using nuts. In the case of a bolted connection, the equipment covers are heated in the wood and filled with epoxy adhesive.

When the handle is assembled from plastic, 2 blocks are used, which must be symmetrical. To give the knife originality, the plastic pads are painted on the inside. In the overlays you can make cavities filled with ornaments, items made of non-ferrous and precious metals, small compasses and photographs.

Once secured to the blade, the handles are sanded until they have the desired shape and smoothness.

Chainsaw knife

Saw chains are made of high-quality alloy, which perfectly withstands long-term friction and high temperature. The process of making the blade is long and time consuming, but the result is a beautiful, unique and very durable knife. Requires a heavy anvil, barbecue and charcoal. To make it easier to handle a hot part, you need to buy forging tongs.

Making a chainsaw blade should be done in the following order:

1. Prepare clothes and mittens made of thick fabric and protective mask. Fill the fireplace with coal and light it with a special liquid.
2. Fold the workpiece from a single chain. In the place where the handle will be, you can add several parts from the chain. It should be remembered that the result of the work should be one monolithic product. The handle for the knife is not produced separately.
3. Place the workpiece on the coals. Provide air supply to raise temperature. Wait until the steel turns dark red. In this state, it becomes fake without losing its quality characteristics.
4. Remove the hot chain from the fire and place it on the anvil. Some strong blows, to smooth it out so that the joints merge together, becoming one monolithic piece.
5. Step by step, heating the workpiece in the oven and shaping it into the desired hammer shape, forge a knife pointing to the handle and blade. After cooling the workpiece, grind and polish it.
6. Harden the product. To do this, it must be heated again and lowered into cold water. After this you can finish the knife. For this purpose, acid and an engraving machine are used. The finished blade is polished again and washed in a warm soapy solution.

Very useful project With detailed video the process of making a knife from a cloth of old circular disks. All manufacturing stages are present here, including hardening and sharpening. I especially liked the forge made from a regular hair dryer. The author’s tenacity is surprising - the entire manufacturing process was completed without the use of electric tools. Well, he had such a fantasy. On the other side good experience. With some persistence, such a knife can be made almost “on your knees.”

My friend and fellow YouTuber wanted to make a joint video. We bounced around some idea and eventually decided to film ourselves in making knives. The catch was that I would do it by hand (minus the drill and oven) and he would do it with power tools. We both started with the same blade, same steel, but the rest of the design aesthetic was left to us. I wanted to do this too because I read many times all that you need to use a knife to make some files and a drill or something like that. I was wondering how long it would take me to make a knife by hand and to see if I could do it without cheating and using my tools. So I realized that this was a great opportunity to try it. It was fun to build, took a lot longer than I expected, and gave me a whole new appreciation for people who make knives entirely by hand. Overall I'm very happy with how the knife turned out and I hope this helps someone out there who wants to give it a try.

Step 1:

I tried to increase the size of the knife with the design used for the saw as much as possible. I made a paper template using cardstock, which is simply a heavier paper weight so that I could easily trace the paper template onto the saw blade. I used a fine-tip marker, although this is a small detail in my opinion it is very important. The fine tip marker leaves fine lines to cut or over-file unlike a regular marker tip. The cut line may become ambiguous if it is too wide, which may affect general shape and lead to irregularities in form and more problems, down the road.

Step 2:

With the saw blade clamped onto the workbench I started by cutting out the rough shape of the blade using straight line segments. If you have never used a hacksaw, first make sure the blade is correct, with the teeth pointing forward or away from your body. The cuts are for thrust so make sure to position the blade correctly.

Step 3:

In order to cut out the curved parts of the handle, I made several perpendicular cuts in the relief along the entire length of the curved part of the handle. Then using a hacksaw at a slight angle, I would cut out each small area. Reducing the reset makes it easier to follow the curve as you cut.

Step 4:

I needed to refine the shape of the blade, so I attached a piece of scrap 2x4 to my workbench and clamped the blade into the 2x4. This allowed me to work the molds from my file and the blade felt nice and secure. I also used the file to evaluate which areas needed extra work. The spine design was slightly inclined and I could use the flat part of the file to check the progress on the curve. If the spine has a flat spot it will be visible.

Step 5:

I used multiple files to get the shape or as close to the line as possible. At this point it starts to look more like a knife and imperfections are harder to detect by eye. If I notice that an area needs work, I like to use a marker to re-draw the shape and then file with that new line. It served as a guide, so I'm not out to get it right and mess up the design. The last painting of the blade after it has been filed and sanded the shape. I don't have any pictures of me sanding the blade, this is the final step to shaping which removes any file marks. I would start with 150 grit and work my way up to 220.

Step 6:

I had originally planned to plunge with a nice high bevel, but my modest skills weren't up to the challenge. saw quite thin material, and I don't think I can extend the blade to reach the line of the plunge and tilt I was after. More on this topic later. At this point I also measured the pin center placement and punched and then drilled the holes with my drill.

Step 7:

Using a marker I marked the entire length of the blade. Then, using a drill bit the same thickness as the blade I scored a line down the center of the blade. The last picture shows, on the line it is not clearly visible in the picture, but it is there. This line will come in handy when filing the bevel blade; it will keep me from crooked and lopsided edges.

Step 8:

I used a bastard file to define the bevel, which is when I realized I didn't have the skills to make a nice plunge line by hand. So I chose a smoother angle and moved the working blade my way from the edge to the spine. I'm new to this and inexperienced, so I took the more conservative route in terms of removal. Once I was happy with the bevel, I sanded the entire blade to 220 grit.

Step 9:

Here is the blade after all the shaping, filing and grinding, ready for heat treatment.

Step 10:

Before I go I would like to say that while you can heat treat the blade with the wood burning fireplace Personally I don't recommend it. This is one of those cases where I really don't feel safe performing the operation. And I wasn't confident in the heat it took so I ended up using my mini forge (here's my Instructable on how I made my mini forge http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to- Make-a-Mini-Forge/) in heat instead of treating the blade. If you don't have a mini forge you can actually send your blades to have them heat treated. There are several companies that offer this service for a fee, of course. With that said, I'll explain my setup. I built a fire. Then, using a hair dryer with a pipe attached to it to act like a bellows, I turn on the hair dryer and eat the coals red hot. It won't take long. I put the blade in the fire and warmed it up until it was magnetic, then put it out in a container of peanut butter. The last peak shows that the blade looks like it has been hardened. Although heat treatment on an open flame is possible, it is not recommended.

Step 11:

Now it's time to harden the blade, but first I sanded down all the hardening scales. Then in my oven I set the temperature to 375 degrees Fahrenheit (in my oven, setting it to 375 degrees Fahrenheit will reach 400 degrees Fahrenheit I suggest testing your oven to see what temperature to set so that it reaches 400 degrees Fahrenheit) and placed the blade in the oven for 1 hour. At the end of 1 hour I turned off the oven and let the blade spin inside with the oven door closed until it was cool enough to handle. You can look at the blonde-ish or light bronze-ish color that the blade turns out after hardening. After quenching I sand the blade to clean it using 220 grit and work up to 400 grit. Last time I figure I use a block of wood with 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around it and sand from the handle to the tip of the spatula in one direction only. This leaves even sanding lines on the blade.

Step 12:

Using the blade as a template I trace the handles of the shape onto the wood. This piece of nut was given to me by one of my neighbors, a piece was cut off, which he ground down. Here again using my 2x4 scrap piece and clamps I sawed two 1/4 thick pieces. In my excitement, I rushed to cutting wood, if I took some time to think about my operation I could do it easily and possible with best results. My first mistake was cutting off the waste material. I could use this material to clamp the piece down and then cut out two handles. Here again is my inexperience, in this case with hand tools, rears its ugly head. I managed to make two useful pen parts, but I'm sure I worked a lot harder than smarter to make them.

Step 13:

In order for the handles to attach to the blade with a tight fit I made sure to sand one side of each handle as flat as possible flat surface and sandpaper. This will ensure that there are no gaps after gluing. At this point I decided what the handle shape would be and drew a reference line onto the blade to make sure I liked it appearance. I then traced the blade handle back into the woods. Using a jigsaw I rough out the shape on one handle and then take the handle and trace it onto the other handle. This will ensure that they are approximately the same shape, which will be useful when gluing on the handles. The last peak is a test coming up to make sure they cover all the Tang.

Step 14:

Time for more polishing and refining of the shape. It is important at this point to finalize the shape to support the section, or rather the top of the handle, because once it is glued to the knife, it will not be easily accessible. And any further work in this area after gluing may cause scratches on the blade. So I sanded down to 800 grit sandpaper and made sure the special section was finished in terms of sanding and finishing.

Step 15:

When drilling pin holes through the wood, I made sure after the first hole was drilled that I used a drill bit the same diameter as the hole to index that hole. In other words, it keeps the blade from moving or getting mixed up when drilling another hole. I used the same indexing process for the opposite side to ensure that all the holes would line up when inserting the pins.

Step 16:

I used 3/16" pins from stainless steel, which I cut from a stainless steel rod. Before sealing the mask, the blade and clean everything with acetone or alcohol to remove any dirt, dust or oil.

Step 17:

After everything is dry from cleaning. I got confused epoxy resin and slathered on a generous amount of pens and pins. Then I clamped everything together and let it cure for 24 hours.

Step 18:

Once the resin has cured I cut off the pins with a hacksaw. Then, using a rasp tool, I began to shape and outline the handle.

Step 19: