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Furnace for mining from a gas cylinder drawing. Do-it-yourself stove for working out: drawings, videos and design features

The stove from the gas cylinder will be more economical and more efficient than its equal in complexity of manufacturing from other improvised materials. The very shape of the gas cylinder will help. The quality of the furnace is largely determined by its furnace. Ideal in all respects, the firebox is spherical. Considering that the furnace must have at least 2 openings - an inlet, for loading fuel and air supply, and an outlet, for exiting exhaust gases into the chimney, the optimal shape of the furnace is not a very long and narrow cylinder with rounded ends, but such a cylinder is. Its shape is chosen based on the need to keep more pressure when minimum flow metal, but the result is the same.

What oven can be made from a cylinder?

Since the shape of the firebox is optimized to the highest common grounds, then furnaces from cylinders can be very different - from fiery combustion to sophisticated designs, from which even an experienced heating engineer, as they say, turns his eyes back. This article discusses several furnaces, built in ascending order of manufacturing complexity; their purpose is also taken into account:

for residential premises.
Heating for non-residential premises.
Summer cooking.
Universal small-sized portable emergency; oven just in case.

The need to minimize the cost of additional materials and the ability to make a do-it-yourself oven without complex tools and/or technological operations. Of course required condition– sufficient convenience and safety of use. Unfortunately, recommendations on the legalization of home-made stoves cannot be given: fire rules for them are very strict. Here everyone needs to resolve the issue on the spot, as anyone can. Or not to decide at all: building furnaces yourself is not prohibited anywhere, but possible consequences will be fully borne by the author/owner.

Note: the requirement of maximum simplicity and cheapness does not apply to the rocket furnace described at the end. However, this stove not only heats a large room on twigs, but also allows you to get at home the real warm bed without building a brick oven. And the cost of materials and labor for it is required several times less.

Which balloon to look for?

First of all: for the furnace you need an all-metal cylinder. Composite explosion-proof are unsuitable, they are not heat-resistant. A 5-liter household cylinder (pos. 1 in the figure) is definitely not suitable for the main part of the stove: it is too small. The ratio of its surface to volume will give such own heat losses that it will not work to burn any fuel completely. To make additional thermal insulation - the game is not worth the candle. The complexity of the work, the cost of materials, the dimensions and weight of the furnace will increase so much that all the work loses its meaning.

Note: only possible application A 5-liter cylinder is a fuel tank for a liquid fuel stove. Two of these will be discussed below.

12 and 27-liter cylinders (pos. 2 and 3) allow you to make a stove just in case, which can also be stored in the pantry of a city apartment. With a 12-liter oven, a heat output of 2-3 kW can be removed, and with a 27-liter - 5-7 kW.

The best blank for the furnace is the most common 50-liter propane tank with a diameter of 300 mm and a height of 850 mm (pos.4). Its volume is already sufficient for efficient combustion any fuel in any known way, and the weight and dimensions do not complicate the work. In addition, there are many such cylinders in everyday life that are still quite serviceable, but have exhausted their resource according to specifications; they can be bought cheaply. Most of the furnaces described below are made from such cylinders.

Note: if there is a choice, a cylinder with a valve should be used, not a valve. From the valve, an excellent power regulator of the furnace is obtained by supplying air (air throttle).

As for common 40-liter cylinders for industrial gases(pos. 5) with a caliber of 240 mm, they are not suitable for the furnace: although the walls of thick, durable metal will ensure the durability of the furnace, the cylinders themselves are too narrow, heavy and bulky. A good powerful oven, up to 100 kW or more, could be made from a 12- or 18-inch professional cylinder, but they are rare, expensive, and not every healthy man can shoulder such an empty one.

From small 2-10 liter industrial balloons, in principle, one could make camp stoves, but again - the metal is thick, durable, it is difficult to work with it, and the stove itself will come out too heavy. There are, however, in the population of small special balloons some exotic individuals, from which excellent ones are obtained; later we will talk about them.

From simple to complex: balloon potbelly stove

You probably guessed even earlier that the simplest home-made stove from a gas cylinder is emergency backup, 12 or 27 liters. You can put a 50-liter stove on it, but such a stove will no longer fit in the city pantry. A balloon potbelly stove will not be able to regularly heat several generations: the relatively thin metal of the case domestic cylinder burn out. But it is quite possible to heat a shed with it from time to time or hold out on it until it is warm.

The design is extremely simple, see fig. Of the purchased units, only a furnace door or a monoblock from a furnace / blower is needed. Here, the theoretically optimal form of a plump, curvy cylinder works to the maximum: a balloon potbelly stove does not need a grate with an ash pan, internal partitions all sorts. One thing that is necessary, like any potbelly stove, for good heat transfer is a horizontal chimney elbow made of a metal pipe with a length of 2-2.5 m.

Note: the diameter of the chimney of a 12-liter potbelly stove is 60 mm, 27-liter 80 mm, 50-liter 100-120 mm.

balloon cooking

Gas cylinders make good grills,. They also burn fuel, but these are no longer stoves, but culinary technological equipment, and quite a lot has been written about it. Therefore, we will no longer expand on gas-balloon cooking. However, those who are interested, as they say, without departing from the cash register, to learn how to make a brazier-barbecue from a balloon, can watch the video:

About pyrolysis

In all the following designs of furnaces from cylinders, pyrolysis is used to one degree or another - decomposition under the influence of high temperature of heavy organic compounds into light, volatile and combustible ones. Pyrolysis allows you to burn everything that, in principle, can burn, completely - up to carbon dioxide and water vapor. It is hardly possible to build a furnace with an efficiency of more than 70% without pyrolysis.

One of the main parameters of the pyrolysis process that must be taken into account when developing a furnace is the degree of its complexity. Simply put, this is the number of thermochemical reactions necessary to break the original complex and heavy molecules into capable of burning to the end.

Pyrolysis of heavy combustible liquids (eg used motor oil) occurs, as a rule, in 2-3 stages. Wood fuel decomposes into easily combustible gases already in many stages, and its complete pyrolysis takes 5-6 times more time than in a liquid fuel furnace.

Since the exhaust gases move from the combustion source to the chimney under the action of draft, pyrolysis ends at a certain distance from the furnace. For oil ovens it is insignificant, about 10-15 cm, and in them pyrolysis can be combined in space with afterburning of pyrolysis gases. This condition is also true for coal-fired ovens; the volatile components of coal are released and decompose easily.

For the full pyrolysis of wood fuel, the length of the gas-flame path is already about 1 m, and in its space it is necessary to distinguish, physically or implicitly, 3 zones (chambers): the furnace itself (gasifier), where the fuel burns and primary pyrolysis gases are released, the secondary gasifier (reactor ) with a supply of secondary air (secondary), where the pyrolysis is completely completed, and an afterburner, also with a secondary supply, where light gases are completely burned. These conditions must be taken into account when designing a wood-burning stove.

Oil garage

The next in complexity, cost and labor intensity is from a balloon. This product is in great demand: you can heat a garage with such a stove for nothing, but there is no large-scale production, firefighters forbid it. Let us briefly recall the principle of its operation.

Oil is quietly burning in the fuel tank, air is supplied here in a dosed manner using an air throttle. Here, the heat of its combustion goes mainly to evaporation. The vapors rise into the vertical gasification column, or reactor. The walls of the reactor are perforated; outdoor air because the pressure in the entire tract of the furnace due to the draft of the chimney is below atmospheric.

The influx of air sharply increases the combustion of oil vapor, the temperature rises and pyrolysis begins. The products of pyrolysis also begin to burn, due to which the temperature rises even more; in the middle part of the reactor, it can reach 1300 degrees. At this temperature, nitrogen oxides are formed in a noticeable amount. Nitrogen oxidation is an endothermic reaction, it consumes a significant part of the fuel energy. Nevertheless, nitrogen oxidation is useful in this case: it protects the furnace from overheating and explosion; the rate of formation of nitrogen oxides increases sharply with increasing temperature, according to a power law.

In the upper part of the reactor, the pyrolysis gases have almost burned out and there is a large excess of air. For complete afterburning in the column, it would be required to make it several meters high and deaf, without perforation, but then nitrogen oxides would skip the peak of their temperature instability and carry away a significant fraction of the fuel energy into the pipe. To avoid this, the gases from the reactor are released into the afterburner or afterburner.

The afterburner is divided approximately in half by an incomplete partition. Directly in front of it, pyrolysis gases burn out, maintaining a temperature that excludes the stabilization of nitrogen oxides. Behind the partition, all the oxygen in the air is already used up, but the temperature here is even higher than 700 degrees. Now nitrogen oxides decompose with the release of energy back into nitrogen and oxygen, which goes to the afterburning of the remains of pyrolysis gases; the energy release of these 2 processes maintains an approximately constant temperature in the afterburner.

The exit to the chimney from the afterburner is located away from the partition, but it is enough to take it 15-20 cm away from it: thermochemical reactions in oil gases proceed quickly. Already completely burnt gases with a temperature of about 400 degrees go into the chimney, which ensures the efficiency of the furnace up to 80% and above.

Usually, a propane 50-liter tank is used for furnaces for working out from cylinders, sawing it in a ratio of 2: 1, a third goes to the tank, and 2/3 to the afterburner, pos. 1 in fig. Up to 30 kW of heat can be removed from such a furnace, but there are plenty of emergencies with a severe outcome from them.

However, in the magazine "Behind the Rulem" the design of a garage furnace for working out with a power of 5-7 kW with a reservoir of a 5-liter cylinder was published quite a long time ago. With such a low power, it was possible to combine the reactor with the afterburner into a single fully functional column:

In the lower cone of the column, the gases expand and the temperature drops to a value sufficient for pyrolysis, but almost eliminating the oxidation of nitrogen.
The perforation of the column is rare and the air flow through it with a slight excess.
In the upper cone, the gases are again delayed for a time sufficient for complete combustion at a power of up to about 8 kW.

Nitrogen oxides are still formed in this furnace, but in an insignificant amount, providing only automatic adjustment of the furnace mode. Operational power adjustment is provided by a rotary valve on the filler neck, which is also an air throttle.

This furnace can be significantly improved if there is a 10 or 12 liter industrial bottle with a caliber of 150 mm and a height of 800/900 mm. In these most often they sell helium for inflating balloons. The profitability of the balloon business reaches 400%, but it is most often carried out on temporary promotions, and the shelf life of a helium-filled cylinder is limited and short: helium is the second fastest diffusion record after hydrogen. Therefore, quite serviceable helium cylinders are often sold on the cheap.

Note: we do not recommend trying to do business with helium alone. All over the world, the floral and festive mafia firmly laid its paw on him, which, they say, even Cosa Nostra bypasses.

The design of the "helium-propane" 2-cylinder furnace for mining is shown in pos. 4. The thick walls of the cylinder distribute heat more evenly along its height, and the dome at the top and narrow, 60-80 mm, exit to the chimney trap gases more efficiently than the cone. Therefore, the perforation of the column and, accordingly, the air inflow can be increased by obtaining a power of 10-12 kW. The maximum filling of 3.5 liters is enough for 3-4 hours of operation at full power.

At the same time, you can improve the fuel-air system. A regular cylinder valve is perfect for the throttle, it only needs to be built up from the inside with a thin-walled steel tube, pos. 4a. You can simply screw it, as much force as you can, onto the part of the fitting protruding inward: the fitting thread on it is tapered, so it will grab it tightly.

It is better to make the filling fitting retractable sliding in the neck, pos. 4b. Through the extended fitting, the furnace is ignited and the fuel level is controlled. And it is relatively safe to add oil to the retracted one while the furnace is running.

If the stove is constantly heated, then it is still advisable to remember the sappers, for whom the most dangerous is not the first, but some N-th mine. You can be completely guaranteed against an emergency with a stove by arranging the fuel supply from a separate feed tank or just a feeder, pos. 5. The height of the feeder must not exceed the maximum acceptable level fuel in the tank (for a 5-liter tank, this is about 2/3 of its height), and the feeder must be carried at least 0.5 m from the furnace. So you can control the fuel level and refuel the stove as you like. In addition, the volume of the feeder can be any, only its height is limited, so it is quite possible to adapt a tank with refueling for a day or more under it.

"Long" stoves

In this case, this metaphor does not mean stoves from recumbent industrial bottles, but from ordinary 50-liter wood-burning stoves. In mode long burning wood is subjected to pyrolysis, which greatly increases the efficiency and duration of heat transfer of furnaces. Fuel in them (from dry sawdust and weeds to debris antique furniture) burns thin layer from the surface, which is why "long" stoves are sometimes called surface burning stoves.

Pyrolysis can occur either in a physically limited separate volume with subsequent burning of pyrolysis gases in an afterburner (these are separate combustion furnaces), or pyrogases immediately escape into a large, well-heated buffer chamber, where pyrolysis is completed and pyrogases are burned, these are combined combustion furnaces. To provide high efficiency both those and others are highly desirable to heat the air entering the pyrolysis zone.

Bubafonya

An example of a long-burning furnace with separate combustion is the well-known. In it, pyrolysis is concentrated under the yoke - "pancake". The bubafoni device diagram is shown in fig. on right; as the fuel burns, the air duct with the pancake goes down. A lot has already been written about the principles of operation and features of making bubafon, so we note only the following:

The efficiency of homemade bubafoni can exceed 85%, and the duration of heat transfer from one fuel load can reach a day.
Fuel for bubafoni needs room-dry with a moisture content of up to 12%
It is permissible to load fuel into the bubafonya on the move, but it cannot be stopped; for maintenance / repair work, you must wait for the load to completely burn out.
The diameter of a 50-liter tank of 300 mm is the minimum allowable for bubafoni, so this stove must be made from it carefully and with a full understanding of the matter.

Bubafonya - the stove is very economical and is well suited for heating garages and households. premises. Its design is simple and affordable for making at home. On the trail. rice. the main stages of the workflow and dimensions are shown specifically for a balloon bubafoni with a power of up to 5-6 kW. It is only necessary to add that the gaps for air supply between the main (closest to the air duct) ends of the blades must be kept the same. When welding, instead of a conductor, it is convenient to use suitable trimmings metal - pieces of rod, etc. The blades are first grabbed from the outside, and then, having removed the “conductors”, they are welded to the end.

Note: bubafoni power can be adjusted over a wide range, up to 10 times, but only manually, because. air throttle can only be installed at the upper end of the duct, which is movable.

Slobozhanka

Even simpler in design and not inferior to the bubafon in terms of parameters, the Slobozhanka combined combustion furnace, the diagram in fig. on right. But it is hardly worth making a Slobozhanka from a cylinder, because its minimum allowable diameter is about 500 mm and a balloon Slobozhanka will not show good efficiency. In addition, all Slobozhanka stoves have very serious drawbacks:

The device of the furnace "Slobozhanka"

Extremely toxic gases accumulate under the roof of the furnace, opening the lid of the furnace on the go, you can be poisoned to death.
There is no way to stop the Slobozhanka: if you close the throttle, the stove, before choking, will draw air back through the chimney. The pressure in the furnace will exceed atmospheric pressure and the poisonous mixture will go out.
On the hearth or grate of the furnace, a hard, dense soot settles, as in all "long" furnaces. About a year later (this is good fuel) it grows up to the mouth of the duct, and it is difficult to knock it down and in places that are easily accessible.

A beautiful stranger

Most other homemade "long" stoves are no better, but more difficult than bubafoni. But there is one, almost purely pyrolysis oven (which is rare on wood) that deserves attention, its drawing is shown in fig. In addition, this stove is also a bunker, which is also rare for wood stoves.

According to the principle of operation, the “stranger” is a simplified and truncated rocket furnace, about which see next. sec. Delay of pyrogases in the afterburner under hob is achieved by a diaphragm in the chimney, in exactly the same way as the washers distribute the coolant from the heating main to consumers. In the furnace business, such a constructive technique is rare, because. any weakening of traction degrades the quality of the furnace, but in this case, the creators turned evil into good.

How? Power limitation: this is an exclusively summer-country cooking stove. It is only enough for cooking, although several times more can be squeezed out of a 50-liter bottle. But the “stranger” works on any combustible garbage that can be pushed into the bunker; best of all - on fairly long chips, branches and dry stems, and it is much more economical, cheaper, simpler and lighter than the simplest brick slab. The foundation here, of course, is not needed, and the chimney is sufficient with a height of 1.5-2 m.

You can’t refuse the authors of the “stranger” in the knowledge of heat engineering, but they are a little too smart with metal: separate, and even removable for furnaces and the roof of the gasifier (bottom-grate and partition in the original) are simply not needed here. The hearth can be the bottom of the 50-liter cylinder itself with the same 20 mm hole in the center, and the ash pan can be arranged in its skirt. The outlet pipe of the gasifier is welded onto the dome of the cylinder, and the afterburner can be made from cutting a 300 mm pipe or sheet metal. At the same time, it is quite possible to clean the stove through the fuel hopper and the gasifier outlet.

The crown of creation, or...

Emelya never dreamed

The crown of balloon-furnace creativity is, without a doubt, the rocket furnace, see fig. But not only and not so much because to make it according to all the rules requires considerable (albeit simple) work, attention, quick wit and accuracy. The main thing is that the rocket stove, as if on purpose, was created for a 50-liter tank, although most often it is made from a barrel. Not only the shape, but also the dimensions of a 50-liter propane cylinder are optimal for this furnace: if a rocket from a barrel heats up a horizontal section of the chimney in a stove bench (burs) up to 6 m long, then a balloon one, with a four times smaller drum capacity (see below about it) - up to 4 m. It is unlikely that anyone will need a bed of this length, but the rocket burr can be made from thin-walled metal corrugated, laying it in a wave-like manner in the array of the bed. This, of course, will greatly increase both the efficiency of heating the room and the duration of heat transfer after heating, which can reach 12 hours.

The advantages of the rocket stove are not limited to this:

This furnace is not only long, but also continuous burning. Additional loading of fuel is possible on the move of the furnace without restrictions.
The rocket stove can also be stopped and re-ignited without restrictions, and the ignition itself is elementary simple: with paper, straw or shavings, like a fire.
The rocket stove breathes, as does the .
Unlike brick stoves, rocket stoves are almost insensitive to long breaks in the furnace during the cold season.
Acceleration of a newly built or standing rocket furnace is also simple: heating with paper, shavings or straw until the couch warms to the touch.
The foundation of the rocket furnace is not needed: although its weight is under a ton, the support area is large and the load from the furnace on the floor does not exceed 250 kg per square meter allowed by SNiP. m.

There are only 2 shortcomings in the rocket stove, and, as they say, they are not fatal. Firstly, after kindling and, possibly, in the process of burning, it is necessary to set the furnace mode by adjusting the air supply. If the oven hums a lot, this does not mean that it heats better. On the contrary, in this mode, the gas-air path quickly overgrows with soot; a correctly heated stove quietly whispers.

Secondly, the power of the furnace is regulated only by the amount of fuel loading. Operational power adjustment is generally impossible; only the oven mode is set by the air supply. On the move, fuel can not only be loaded to increase power, but also separate smoldering chips can be pulled out with tongs and immediately extinguished, but this is a fire hazard.

Note: if the “whisper” of the stove seems that it heats up weakly - it doesn’t matter, wait, the heat goes into the battery. The stove will give it away later, cooling down after heating. If you need to warm up quickly, without thinking about fuel consumption yet, open the air until it buzzes. It is undesirable to bring it to a loud roar, soot inside will strongly settle.

How does a rocket work?

The device and principle of operation of the rocket furnace. Here we recall the most important.

The idea of a rocket furnace "on the fingers" is as follows: imagine 2 physically connected processes with an efficiency less than 100%; let's say 90% each. For the flow of the 2nd, the products of the 1st are needed. If they are launched together at once, then due to mutual interference due to entropy, the final efficiency will not exceed 65%. And if you “scroll” the 1st one first, save its results somewhere and then run the 2nd one on them, then the maximum overall efficiency will be slightly more than 80%.

In the most general sense, this is a universal law. It is thanks to him market economy with all its cumbersome and gluttonous financial, administrative and security superstructures, it turns out to be more efficient than subsistence farming. In the rocket furnace, this law is technically implemented by the sequential inclusion of 2 furnaces, generating heat and accumulating and heating.

The generator stove consists of (see Fig.) a blower 1a with an air supply regulator (they put the furnace into operation), a fuel hopper 1b with a blank cover, a channel for supplying secondary air 1c that ensures complete combustion of the fuel, a flame tube (fire pipe) 1g and internal or primary chimney - riser - 1d. The fire pipeline cannot be made too short or long: on the one hand, it must heat the secondary air well, without which it is not possible to achieve complete combustion of wood pyrogases. On the other hand, in a too long fire pipeline, the gases themselves will cool down and pyrolysis will not reach the end. The entire generating stove is securely wrapped in high-quality thermal insulation with the lowest possible intrinsic heat capacity. All that is required of the primary furnace is to completely burn the fuel and release a stream of burnt hot gases from the riser.

Note: in terms of efficiency, the optimal inner diameter of the riser is 70 mm. But if you strive maximum power furnace, then the riser pipe is needed already with a diameter of 100 mm; then its shell is needed not 150, but 200 mm. In this case, the efficiency decreases slightly. Further, when describing the technology for building a furnace, dimensions are given for both cases.

The basis of the heating and storage part of the furnace is a high-capacity heat accumulator, but it is impossible to immediately release gases from the riser into it, their temperature is about 1000 degrees. There are good heat-resistant heat-storing materials, but they are very expensive, so the authors of the rocket furnace used adobe as a storage medium. Its heat capacity is huge, but it is not heat-resistant, so the secondary furnace must begin with a converter of high-grade heat into medium-grade heat, with a temperature of up to 300 degrees. In addition, part of the primary heat must be transferred to the room immediately to compensate for the current heat loss.

All these functions are performed by the furnace drum, and a 50-liter cylinder will go to it. The gases from the riser enter under the cover of the drum 2a with the hob 2b. The metal drum is thin-walled, it gives off heat well to the room. Having rolled over under the cover, the gases enter the annular lowering of the drum between its tube 2g and the metal shell of the riser insulation 2v. Under the drum 2d is also metal; metal does not let flue gases into the insulation of the primary furnace.

The fact is that inexpensive and high-quality insulating materials are porous. Let flue gases into them - their pores will be drawn in, quickly clogged with burning, and all the insulation, and with it the efficiency of the furnace, will go down the drain. Saman is also porous and is also very readily spoiled by soot. Therefore, the first task in the construction of a rocket furnace is to ensure complete tightness of the gas-smoke path.

In the drum, about 1/3 of its height from the top, the gases have already cooled down enough to give up their heat to the accumulator. From this height to the bottom, the lining (coating) of the entire furnace with adobe begins. In the drum, the flue gases give off, to the outside and into the accumulator, about half of the heat generated by the generator, but it is still too early to let them into the heat exchanger: from the drum, through its outlet 2e, the gases enter the secondary ash pan 3a with a sealed cleaning door 3b, and then into a long horizontal section of the chimney (boars) 4. From the boar, the gases that have almost completely given off heat to the adobe couch are released into a conventional external chimney.

Why do you need a secondary ash pan? The gases coming out of the drum are not very hot and chemically already neutral, because. burnt to the end. But they still contain a large number of solid suspension; mainly - microparticles of the mineral components of wood. And the hog, as mentioned above, is made of thin metal corrugated and even laid with twists, and this whole pipe is tightly walled up, so it is impossible to clean the hogs. Let dirty gases into it - the gap will soon become overgrown with soot and the bed will have to be broken. And in the secondary ash pan, the suspension settles. Once or twice a year it will have to be raked out, but the stove will now last for many years.

So, now we know enough to start building a rocket furnace. What will we do.

Building a rocket

To begin with, we need to stock up on 5 types of lining. However, their components are either inexpensive or completely underfoot, and preparing the mixture yourself is not difficult:

5a - the most common adobe: clay, thoroughly mixed with finely chopped straw and mixed with water until the dough is thick. Because the couch did not blow or sack, except for its weight, it is not loaded with anything and is in the room, the quality of the clay of great importance does not have, you can take a self-digging ravine.
5b - main heat insulator. Medium-fat oven clay in half with crushed stone from the lung fireclay bricks SHL. Water - until the density of the dough.
5v - heat-resistant gas-tight mechanically strong coating. Ordinary chamotte sand with furnace clay 1:1 by volume. Water - to the consistency of plasticine.
5g - self-dug sand, river or ravine, or very thin sandy loam. Washing or calcination is not needed, it is enough to sift through a sieve with a mesh of 3 mm.
5d - medium-fat oven clay.

Some explanations. It is better to introduce grass straw into adobe (meadow cereal hay), with it the strength, which we do not really need, will be lower, but the heat capacity will also be greater. As for the recipes for making adobe - choose any suitable one, this is not essential for a rocket stove. You can do it as in the video below, only we don’t need to build a house completely.

Video: making adobe

In mixture 5b, crushed stone (not sand!) And only ShL are needed. Other chamottes (SHM, ShV, etc.) are good heat accumulators themselves, it is not without reason that furnace fireboxes are made of them. But in this case, a large heat capacity will only harm. It is advisable to set more rubble ShL, if only the clay sticks it together.

The purpose of the 5v mixture is to extend the life of the furnace. All metal structures in it are steel with a wall thickness of up to 3 mm, so it is necessary that the rocket “fly” as it should. But in the flame path, thin metal will quickly burn out. However, by that time, the 5v coating will have been fired, and over time, the sections steel pipes spontaneously replaced by ceramic ones. True, then the stove will have to be cleaned carefully (the riser, although slowly, but still overgrown with soot), is fragile after all.

In the composition of 5g there is a rather large admixture of alumina. In building sand, it is undesirable, so they get rid of it. But alumina is just right for the lining of the riser: the heat capacity of the mixture is minimal, and, when sintered, it will also gain some strength. And raw materials are available for free.

Note: lining the riser can also be done with composition 5b, but, firstly, it costs money. Secondly, the work will take a very long time - the lining will have to be layered, with the previous layer completely drying, otherwise the coating will dry in the shell for an unreasonably long time and will definitely crack inside.

Stage 0

First you need to make a bed for the stove, see fig. - durable wooden trestle bed of the required configuration. Its frame is made of intersecting cut-in quarter lags (beam 100x100 mm) with a mesh of at least 600x900 mm under the stove and at least 600x1200 mm under the bed itself. The oblong cells of the frame are oriented along the couch. The curved edges of the frame are brought to the contour by trimming timber and boards.

Note: it is not necessary to raise the bed higher, taking into account the power of the bed lining, it will be so convenient.

The frame is covered with 40 mm grooved boards. The deck board joints should be oriented perpendicular to the long sides of the frame cells. The ends of the timber and boards that protrude beyond the desired contour of the bed are sawn in shape immediately, but its outer contour remains free for now, it will be sheathed with drywall, etc. upon completion of the furnace.

Before assembly, the parts are first impregnated with a biocide, and the entire structure is impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion. The frame parts are fastened at the crosshairs with diagonal pairs of 6x90 mm confirmations, and the decking boards are attached to the frame with longitudinal pairs of 6x60 mm confirmations, a pair in the board for each longitudinal log.

Then on the spot permanent installation mineral cardboard 4 mm is laid on the floor of the furnace with some margin for cutting along the contour, and the place above which the furnace itself will be is additionally covered with a sheet of roofing iron; it must be cut in shape in advance, taking into account the fact that the offset in front of the furnace furnace must be at least 100 mm, this is enough for a rocket.

Now the bed is moved into place. They immediately arrange an exit to the outer chimney, somewhere at the rear edge of the stove bench. Its lower edge should be 70-90 mm above level A of the furnace lining (see Fig. with the main diagram), i.e. 120-140 mm from the bedding level.

Stage 1

On the bed along the entire contour, a solid formwork is made with a height of A, according to the main scheme of the furnace (40-50 mm), with a smooth upper edge. If the bed is adjacent to the wall, the formwork is brought to the walls, and the level of its top is beaten off with a cord. Then the formwork is poured with adobe and its surface is smoothed with a polisher - a flat, smooth board with a rounded corner. If the formwork is incomplete and it is inconvenient to lead the far end along the mark, beacons from plywood strips can still be leaned against the walls; they are removed when the adobe dries up, and the cracks are covered.

Stage 2

While level A dries, let's make a drum from a cylinder, see fig. First, cut off its top so that a hole with a diameter of 200-220 mm is obtained (do not forget to bleed off the remaining gas!), It is closed with a steel round 3-4 mm thick, this will hob. Then a cut is made below the upper welding seam of the cylinder by 40-50 mm, this is almost a cover.

A thin sheet metal skirt is welded to the lid. Its side seam also needs to be welded, it will greatly lead the skirt away from the seam connection. Cooked at a direct current of 60 A with a 2-mm electrode. I must say that it is difficult to keep the arc in this mode, you need to be a fairly experienced welder. After mounting the skirt, holes are drilled in it for M4-M5 bolts, 3-6 holes. evenly around the circumference, 20-25 mm from the bottom edge.

The third cut of the balloon is below the bottom seam, where the tube begins to pass into the rounded bottom. The remnants of the balloon skirt do not need to be removed, so it will only hold on tighter in the stove. Now, at the bottom of the tube, we make a cutout for its exit in the form of a horizontally elongated rectangle. Its height is 70 mm and the width depends on the selected riser tube, see inset on the top right of the main diagram.

The next operation is laying the sealing gasket. For her, a braided asbestos cord is needed; untwisted shaggy twine is not good. The cord is glued with superglue or, better, with Moment. Then the glue, of course, will burn out, but the gasket will also stick to the remnants, especially since the cover will have to be removed once a year, not every year.

Having laid the gasket, immediately, as soon as the glue has seized, we put on the lid and put a load of 2-3 kg on it. Under load, we mark the holes in the tube in place. After removing the cover, drill and cut the thread. Now we insert the tube into the inverted cover and measure the depth of the drum, this is necessary to clarify the height of the riser pipe. We take apart the lid with the tube so that the gasket is not soaked through with glue and the cord does not lose elasticity, stage 2 is finished.

Stage 3

Level A will dry for a week or two, and at this time we will deal with the furnace part of the furnace. Details 1a, 1b and 1d from a professional pipe 150x150 mm; riser pipe 1d round. When marking blanks, it is necessary to observe the distance indicated on the main diagram from the rear, if viewed from the side of the blower, the edge of the bunker to the front edge of the drum. Within the specified limits, it is arbitrary, based on the location of the furnace and its design. The removal of the blower forward is also arbitrary, but, of course, within reasonable limits. It is also not necessary to push the blower under the bunker, the valve will be hot. The best option is to cut off the blower flush with the front edge of the bunker, as in the diagram.

After cutting holes for the hopper and the riser pipe, the first step is to weld the partition of the secondary air channel 1c, at a height of 30 mm from the bottom of the furnace. A solid seam is not needed, 2 tacks through the not yet welded rear end of the firebox are enough, 2-4 through the hole for the bunker and 2 through the blower. Material - sheet steel 1.5-2.5 mm.

Note: the angle of inclination of the hopper can be within 45-90 degrees from the horizontal. But at an inclination of 45 degrees, rough chips can get stuck, and if the hopper is vertical, then when reloading fuel, the hand is dangerously close to the hot drum. Therefore, a slope of 60 degrees was chosen.

The rear edge of the air baffle should be flush with the front edge of the riser tube opening. Its front edge should protrude outward by 20-25 mm. This shelf is needed so as not to litter when cleaning the stove: this design does not allow the use of a grate with a retractable ash pan, and the ash will have to be raked out with a scraper into the tray; its edge is slipped under the shelf. However, the ash rocket oven gives nothing at all.

It is better to make a blower valve with a vertical stroke in grooves with flat springs, a swing door will not provide the proper smoothness of adjusting the furnace mode, and it is more difficult to make a throttle with a rotary damper. The cover of the bunker is bent from galvanization. Complete tightness is not needed here, as long as it fits snugly.

When the furnace metal structure is ready (do not forget to weld the riser pipe and weld the rear of the flame tube!), it is lined with composition 5c with a layer of 10-12 mm, as shown in the diagram. A continuous coating is given only on the bottom. The top and sides of the blower from its front edge to the bunker are left free. Ofuterovav, put to dry.

They are dried by putting on a pole with a blower part. At first, they regularly inspect: if the coating slips, it is removed and a new portion of clay is made fatter and with less water. Do not rely on chance, this is a responsible operation!

Stage 4

The furnace part will dry out soon (2-3 days), and during this time it is quite possible to make a formwork for insulation and lay its bottom layer, because. Level A The adobe has already dried up enough to hold a little weight. The formwork design is clear from Fig. The meaning of what is marked in red will become clear later. Formwork is made of boards or plywood with a thickness of 20-25 mm. It is not necessary to firmly fasten the parts, because. the formwork will then have to be disassembled. Enough staples of thin wire on the outside at the corners; you can just wrap it with duct tape.

The formwork is put in place with the outer edge of the front bar flush with the edge of the bed and exactly along the axis of the future furnace. You need to put it carefully, with measurements, otherwise the details of the furnace will not converge later. From accidental displacement, you can fix it with thin pointed pegs by sticking them from the outside into the adobe. Beacons, on which the lower layer of insulation will be aligned - from any material, but their height must be exactly equal to that of the front formwork bar.

Stage 5

The formwork is filled with a mixture of 5b to level B. The surface of the fill is leveled with a polisher along the beacons and the front bar.

Stage 6

While the insulating pad dries up and the furnace part dries out, we make the riser shell and under the drum. With the shell, everything is simple: either a pipe segment, or we bend it from a thin (1-2 mm) sheet. Both, of course, steel. If the shell is made of sheet, the seam can be folded, a perfect circle is not necessary here.

Note: no need to make a shell below the riser pipe and then round the top of the riser with clay (see below). The stove works better if the gases roll into the downhill with a break.

Under the drum, as can be seen in the diagram, it is inclined. This is necessary for a better swirling of the flow in the secondary ash pan, see below. But if you thought: “Well, now cut an ellipse in an ellipse!”, Then in vain. With a tilt of 10 degrees, the major axis of the ellipse is as much as 304.5 mm, and we need a smaller one, 5-7 degrees.

That is, the outer diameter of the hearth blank (steel sheet 2-3 mm) is 4 mm less than the inner diameter of the drum, and the diameter of the cutout for the shell is 3 mm larger than its outer diameter, and will fall like a native. We will smear the slots along the outer and inner contours (marked with green circles in the diagram) after installing the hearth with clay 5d, bringing the sausages into the fillets with just a finger.

Stage 7

Check if level 5B is completely dry. This can be done by temporarily removing the front formwork bar. If not, we smoke (sorry, we are struggling with nicotine. We drink juice.) for a day or two.

If it is dry, we put the furnace part in the formwork, its coating is probably already dry. It is also necessary to set it exactly along the axis of the furnace, vertically and horizontally, with measurements: the drum and the shell should ultimately be concentric plus or minus 2 mm, and the top of the secondary ash pan (see below) should fit tightly under the upper edge of the drum outlet. The front edge of the blower is set flush with the outer edge of the formwork and, accordingly, the bed. At the same time, it will protrude from the insulation to the thickness of the formwork board, which is just enough to smear it with adobe from the outside: the insulation used is effective, but also sensitive to air humidity.

We fix the exposed furnace part with pegs, as well as the formwork. Let them remain in the mass of isolation, it's okay. Now we put additional front shields and fill the formwork to the top with a mixture of 5b, we have reached the level D of the lining. It is no longer necessary to level completely, so as not to hook the bunker that accidentally protrudes from the solution. It is enough to iron with a polisher, leaning on the edges of the formwork, in the area where the drum is located, marked in pale gray on the formwork diagram. But here you need to align to smoothness.

Stage 8

We dry level G. This is also a responsible operation, it is impossible to rely on the microclimate of the room and ordinary drying by natural evaporation outside, the oven will come out bad and short-lived. It is necessary to create more or less stable conditions inside the drying mass.

It's done ordinary light bulb incandescent at 40-60 watts. It (turned on, of course) is thrust into the furnace so that the flask is under the riser pipe. It is only necessary to provide for some kind of mini-tragus under the lamp socket so that the bulb does not touch the metal, otherwise the glass may burst. The top of the G level will dry out enough to withstand further operations while we make the secondary ash pan, see next.

Note: the light bulb will have to burn continuously for a total of approximately 30 days, taking into account further stages of drying. During this time, a 60-watt one will eat 24x30x0.06 \u003d 43.2 kW / h of electricity, and a 40-watt one 28.8 kW / h, which will cost 129 rubles, respectively. 60 kop. and 86 rubles. 40 kop. Whether such an expense is exorbitant is up to you. However, on either side, it is better to take a 40-watt one. Drying will last longer, but it will come out better and less sensitive to the quality of raw materials.

Stage 9

We make a secondary ash pan, or for short, just an ash pan, because. There is no primary in this oven. Here it is similar in appearance to the same unit in the American prototypes of rocket furnaces, but differs fundamentally from them.

For Americans, an almost laminar flow of gases enters the ash pan through the wide outlet of the drum, and here it twists for deeper cleaning, see next. stage of the installation scheme of the ash pan. The cause of eddies is the rotation of the Earth; more precisely, the Coriolis force caused by it, the same one that spins the water flowing from the bath.

Note: military-historical curiosities. At the end of World War II, the Nazis developed the V-3, an ultra-long-range multi-chamber cannon with a gradual acceleration of the projectile, to bombard London. They punched adits in the rock, assembled the entire system. And then it turned out that the Germans, famous for their thoroughness ... forgot to take into account the rotation of the Earth! All projectiles would have missed. So the V-3 never fired, giving rise only to panic in the Western intelligence services and a wave of myths that has come down to our days. Later, Saddam Hussein ran around with the same idea. He was going to shoot from his desert in Berlin, Paris and the same London. His specialists have already calculated everything accurately and conducted successful experiments on small models. But, again, after all, it turned out that all modern technologies are unable to create precision-accuracy gun barrels 200-300 m long. In general, work loves a fool. Even if the fool is smart and knows a lot.

The drawings of the ash pan are shown in fig. Size L is measured from point A (marked in red on the formwork diagram) along the perpendicular (red arrow in the same place) to the edge of the bed. Dimension H - the sum of the formwork heights measured in place and the exit window already cut in the drum (70 mm, if cut accurately). The bevel of the top of the ash pan back is arbitrary within reasonable limits, if only then it would not stick out from under the coating of the drum with adobe.

The immured ash pan box is made of a thin steel sheet or galvanized 0.6-1.2 mm. The front panel (face) is made of steel sheet 4-6 mm, because it can be exposed to the outside and has M5 threaded holes for attaching the cover. Cutout for chimney burrs - along the outer diameter of the existing metal corrugation; 150-180 mm is suitable for this furnace. Its location is arbitrary, you just need to observe the dimensions A, B and C on the drawing of the ash pan. All parts except for the hog are connected by welding with a continuous seam in the same mode as for the skirt of the drum cover. See below for connecting a hog.

The cover of the cleaning hole with a size of 180x180 mm is also made of steel with a thickness of 4-6 mm. The sealing gasket under it is made of mineral cardboard. Mounting bolts - from M5x8 to M5x15 with hexagonal heads. Bolts with any slots should not be used: the ash pan from the inside is overgrown with a thin layer of dense soot. The thickness of its layer will soon stabilize, but the bolts for removing the cover have to be unscrewed with a socket wrench with a knob.

Note: it is undesirable to use a hinged door with a latch - it will not provide tightness forever. You won’t notice this right away, but the appetite will increase at the stove and inside it will begin to overgrow with burning. And you have to open the ash pan for cleaning at most once a year, if the stove is heated with room-dry wood.

Stage 10

It must be assumed that while we were fiddling with the ash pan, the level G had already dried up. You can check it by temporarily removing the formwork wall, as well as level B. If you are ready, we mount the drum and ash pan.

We put the drum tube without the lid in place. We monitor the concentricity of it and the riser pipe, and also so that the exit window is in the right place, see the inset at the top right in the general diagram of the furnace and the diagram in Fig.

We put a little mixture 5b inside the drum and use a spatula to form a wedge from it with an inclination of 5-7 degrees, converging to the exit window. Now we put it in place under, with a stick we press it to the solution. We select the mortar from the cutout under the shell, otherwise you won’t put the shell, the mortar is on rubble. Next, install, slightly turning, the shell. We coat the gaps along the outer and inner contours with clay 5d, as described earlier.

Stage 11

There is no need to wait for the insulation under the bottom to dry, we immediately line the riser. The shell is filled in layers, only in 5-7 layers, with a composition of 5 g (self-dug sand or lean sandy loam). We tamp each layer with a rolling pin with a flat end and spray from a spray bottle until a crust forms. Not reaching 5-6 cm to the top, we form a cork from clay 5d. When it dries, thin cracks form between it, the pipe and the shell, but it's okay: when the furnace is fired, they will soon overgrow with soot of concrete density and strength.

Stage 12

Immediately after mounting the drum, we install an ash pan; We will cover the cleaning hole with a lid later. Its installation is simple: on the lower and large side surfaces we apply a layer of clay 5d 2-3 mm thick. We insert the ash pan into place, press and press down. Then we coat the contour of the output window of the drum (it is also the input ash pan) on the outside with the same clay 5d. Smear the sausages squeezed inside with your finger into fillets. Do not lose sight of: the edge of the hearth protrudes into the ash pan with a narrow segmental shelf, you also need to form a fillet under it. In general, the transition from the drum to the ash pan must be sealed both inside and outside (green oval on the general scheme of the furnace).

Stage 13

If the level G of the insulation is not completely dry yet, we wait for it to dry. To speed it up, the formwork can already be removed. If so, we also remove the formwork (drying continues, the light in the furnace is still on!) and apply insulation with a 5B solution to level C. We apply it without formwork, with our hands. Manually, without much accuracy, we form a semicircular vault at level B.

Stage 14

Without waiting for level C to dry, we make a formwork along the contour of the bed, as when forming level A, but already to level G. Now we specify its value according to the measurement data: there should be at least 80 mm above the upper edge of the burr hole in the ash pan. It is also undesirable to do more than 120 mm, the heat transfer of the furnace after heating will be sluggish. For brevity, we will call the new level G G1.

Stage 15

We fill the new formwork with adobe to the lower edge of the hole for burs in the ash pan, on one side. On the other hand, to the lower edge of the exit to the outer chimney. Roughly, with our hands, we level, but you need to make sure that there are no dips, and, accordingly, U-shaped sections of the hog. If you read carefully at first, you will understand that we will be able to lift the hog from the ash pan to the chimney by 10-30 mm. It is necessary for uniform heating of the couch, but sections of the hog inclined downwards are undesirable in any case.

Stage 16

We stretch the prepared corrugation to its full length. We introduce one end of it into the ash pan by 15-20 mm and flare it from the inside with a flat screwdriver through the cleaning door. We coat the outer contour of the input of the hog into the ash pan with clay 5d, as already described.

Further, the beginning of the hog, counting from the ash pan, is covered with adobe for 15-25 cm, it will keep the corrugation from being pulled out during the following operations. Now we lay the burs in a bed with bends, but not coming closer than 100 mm to any edge. As you lay, lightly press down, slightly pressing into the adobe. Having laid, we introduce the far end of the corrugation into the exit hole into the chimney and along the contour, again, coat with clay 5d.

Stage 17

We manually wrap the hogs with adobe so that there are no dips and niches under the bottom of the corrugation. Then we fill the formwork with adobe, smooth its surface with a polisher. If the adobe is thick, heavy, made of greasy clay, you can immediately form the rounding of the upper corners, see the inset at the bottom right in the main diagram. It is convenient to do this with a galvanized strip bent by a trough to a quarter of a circle. If the adobe is light, you will have to dust with a cutter or around the stone during the final finishing.

Stage 18

We put in place, already constantly, the lids of the ash pan and the drum. The lamp in the firebox burns everything, dries! We attach the drum lid with cone-head screws: tightened tightly, they will tightly compress the gasket between the lid and the tube.

Stage 19

We form the adobe coating of the drum, as already mentioned: 1/3 of its top remains free, and counting down from half its height, the adobe layer should be no thinner than 100 mm. For the rest - as God puts it on your soul, here the rocket stove will endure any design.

Stage 20

At the end of drying (this is about 2 weeks), we remove the formwork and round, if necessary, the remaining corners. The last operations before kindling - we paint the drum with heat-resistant enamel at 450 degrees (750 degrees is much more expensive), and cover the bench with acrylic varnish in 2 layers; 2nd after complete drying of the 1st.

The lacquering will not interfere with the stove's breathing, the breath will go through the bedding. But, firstly, the varnish will not allow the adobe to dust. Secondly, it will protect it from accidental moisture ingress. Thirdly, it will give the stove a noble look of glazed clay.

Stage final: rocket launch

In a dry oven, we put it in the grooves, without pushing it, the blower valve (of course, there is no light bulb there anymore), close the lid of the bunker and drown it with paper, straw, shavings, etc., all the while supplying fuel through the blower. When the couch warms up a little to the touch, add more light fuel, and load the standard fuel into the bunker. After waiting for a fairly strong hum of the stove, we cover the blower "to a whisper." That's it, the rocket stove with a stove bench is ready! Now - to the start! That is, in bed.

Finally

There is a direction in balloon-furnace creativity that is still being developed only by smokers, and then somehow: the construction of furnaces from 2 or more cylinders. And from the point of view of heat engineering, his prospects are quite serious.

The old non-autonomous diving equipment was divided into 2 classes according to the number of helmet attachment points: three-bolt with a soft suit for working at a depth of up to 60 m and heavy hard 12-bolt deep-water. The profession of a shallow-water diver had a completely official name - a three-bolt diver. In this regard, it is interesting what hidden meaning the trolls and goblins of Runet would see in the name, well, let's say: "Society of Multi-Cylinder Stove Makers"?

It is always nice to use junk materials with benefit. And if it concerns fuel and heating, it is also very profitable. Waste oil heating stoves are a prime example. They can use any oil that can burn.

Transmission, diesel, machine, confectionery, vegetable ... Really any. There are no problems with fuel for such units. What they found, they poured. Moreover, the furnace for working out with their own hands is also made from waste materials: an old gas or oxygen cylinder, pipe sections of different diameters or pieces of metal.

2. The principle of operation of homemade stoves

If any used oil is simply set on fire, the smoke will be merciless and “smell” even more actively. Therefore, direct combustion is not used. First, volatile substances evaporate, then they are burned. This is the basic principle of design development. Therefore, in some embodiments, the furnace has two combustion chambers connected by a tube in which holes are made.

In the lower chamber, the fuel is heated and evaporated. Combustible vapors rise up. Passing through a pipe with holes, they mix with oxygen dissolved in the air. Already in the upper part of this pipe, the mixture ignites, and burns out in the second chamber. Moreover, the combustion of vapors occurs with the release of much more heat and less smoke. With the right technology, there is practically no smoke, as well as soot.

The second method of separating "heavy" fuel (oil of any origin) into "flammable" components is more efficient, but also more difficult to implement. For efficient evaporation, a metal bowl is installed in the lower chamber. It heats up, the droplets of mining that fall on it instantly turn into volatile combustible vapors. In this case, the glow is obtained (in the correct mode) blue-white, as in the case of plasma combustion. From here came another name for this design - with a plasma bowl.

To achieve the greatest efficiency of fuel combustion, used oil must be fed into the lower chamber in very small portions. In some cases - drops, sometimes - a thin stream. That is why this technology is called drip feed.

These are the basic principles of the "operation" of home-made heating units. There are a very large number of their combinations and variations. A few of them are described below.

You can see an example of combustion in a plasma bowl in the video below. This is a Gecko mining furnace, it has a built-in water heater and can work as a heating boiler.

5. Advantages and disadvantages

The main and main plus is that used fuel and oils are used, which otherwise would have to be disposed of. If the technology is followed, the combustion is so complete that practically no harmful emissions into the atmosphere occur. Other advantages are no less significant:

Simple construction;
high efficiency;
low cost of equipment and fuel;
works on any oils, organic, synthetic, vegetable origin;
the content of up to 10% of pollutants is allowed.
There are also serious drawbacks. And the main one is that if the technology is not followed, the combustion of fuel occurs incompletely. And its vapors get into the room, and this is very dangerous. Therefore, the main and main requirement: furnaces operating on waste oil are installed exclusively in rooms with a ventilation system.

There are more cons:

To ensure good draft, the chimney must be straight and high - at least 5 meters;
regular cleaning of the bowl and chimney is required - daily;
problematic ignition: you must first heat the bowl, then supply fuel;
hot water options are possible, but their independent design is a difficult task - you can’t greatly lower the temperature in the combustion zone, otherwise the whole process will fall apart (as an option, install a water jacket on the chimney, it definitely won’t interfere with the decay of the fuel).
Due to such features, such units are rarely used for heating residential buildings. If they are installed, then in separate rooms and in a modified form.

6. Application area

In the basic version, a homemade waste oil stove heats the air. They are also called heat guns, heat generators or heaters. It is rarely used for heating residential premises in this form: the air dries out, oxygen from hot metal walls is burned out. But to maintain normal temperature in industrial or technical premises, such units are very effective: they quickly raise the temperature. They can be seen at service stations, car washes, garages, production shops where there are no combustible materials, warehouses, greenhouses, etc.

Many options can be improved: they can install a coil for heating water or make a water jacket. Such equipment already belongs to the category of water heating and can be installed in a water heating system. Without automation, a mining furnace with a water circuit requires constant monitoring, but for summer cottages, farm buildings with livestock, etc. this is a great option.

7. How to make a waste oil stove

Today there are already more than a dozen different designs. They use different techniques extraction of thermal energy, have a different structure.

8. Furnaces for burning mining from a pipe

It is easier to make an oven if the body is already ready. As such, you can use a gas or oxygen cylinder, a thick-walled barrel or pipe. The diagram below explains how to make a waste oil stove from a pipe.

The operation of this unit is based on evaporation in a plasma bowl. It can produce up to 15 kW of heat (on average, it can heat 150 square meters). Greater heat transfer due to any changes (the size of the furnace or an increase in the air supply) is impossible: the thermal regime will be disturbed and instead of more heat, more fumes will be obtained, and this is unsafe.

The build order is:

1.) We make the case.
a.) We take a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 210 mm, a wall thickness of 10 mm. Height 780 mm.
b.) We cut out a bottom with a diameter of 219 mm from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm and weld it on one side. This is the bottom.
c.) Legs are welded to the bottom (they can be made from bolts).
d.) A viewing window is made at a distance of 70 mm from the bottom. Through it, it will be possible to monitor combustion and heat the bowl at the “start”. Dimensions, respectively, make it convenient for you. The door itself is made from a cut piece of pipe, having welded a thin collar. But everything should be closed tightly, because an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter of the door. You can use furnace casting, then the dimensions of the hole are cut out for it. You can fasten it with bolts directly to the body (an asbestos cord is required here too).
e.) On the opposite side of the body, stepping back from the top 7-10 cm, weld a pipe to drain flue gases. Its diameter is 108 mm, wall thickness is 4 mm.

2,) We make a cover.
a.) A circle with a diameter of 228 mm is cut out of metal 5 mm thick.
b.) A collar is welded along the edge from a strip of metal 40 mm wide, the thickness of the metal is 3 mm.
d) A hole with a diameter of 89 mm is cut in the center of the cover, the second with a diameter of 18 mm is cut out from the side. The smaller hole serves as another viewing window, a cover is made on it, which is also used as a safety valve.

3.) We make a pipe for supplying air and fuel.
a.) We take a piece of pipe with a diameter of 89 mm, with a wall thickness of 3 mm, and a length of 760 mm.
b.) Stepping back from the edge of 50 mm around the circumference, drill 9 holes of 5 mm in diameter.
c.) Two more rows of holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are made 50 mm above these holes, 8 pcs in each row.
d.) Having risen even higher by 50 mm, make the fourth row of holes 3 mm in diameter. There should be 9 of them.
e.) On the same side, along the edge of the grinder, cuts are cut with a thickness of 1.6 mm and a height of 30 mm. Around the circumference of the pipe, they need to be made 9 pcs.
e.) From the other end of the pipe, stepping back 5-7 mm, cut a hole with a diameter of 10 mm.
g.) Insert the fuel supply pipe into the cut hole. Its diameter is 10 mm, wall thickness is 1 mm. It ends at the same level with the air supply pipe. The length and angle of the bend depend on where the fuel container will be located.

4.) The finished air and fuel supply pipe is welded to the cover. It is set so that it does not reach the bottom of the case by 120 mm.

5.) We make a bowl for fuel
a.) Now a piece of 30 mm is cut off from a pipe with a diameter of 133 mm, with a wall thickness of 4 mm.
b.) We cut out a circle with a diameter of 219 mm from sheet steel 2 mm thick.
c.) Weld to a piece of pipe. It turned out a bowl where fuel is supplied.

6.) Assembly.
a.) A bowl is installed inside the body at a distance of 70 mm from the bottom. It can be observed (and kindled) from the lower inspection hatch.
b.) Install the cover with the fuel / air supply device.
c.) A chimney is installed on the chimney. Pipe with a diameter of 114 mm, a wall of 4 mm. Its height is at least 4 meters. The part that remains indoors may not be insulated; it is better to insulate it outside. Chimney - only vertically upwards, inclined sections are excluded.

After installing the oil tank, you can start testing. First, a little paper is placed in the bowl, a flammable liquid is poured, everything is set on fire. After the paper has almost burned through, the oil supply opens.

This drawing of a waste oil furnace is not in vain given with such an accurate indication of the materials. These are the parts you need to use. As a result of work homemade oven, with a consumption of 1-1.5 liters of fuel per hour, you can heat the room up to 150 "squares".

10. Drawing of a furnace from a pipe or cylinder in video format

A furnace using waste oil from a cylinder (oxygen or gas) is presented by the author in the video. The design is similar to the one described above, but with original modifications (and it is a little simpler)

11. Do-it-yourself mini oven for working out

This home-made stove, with a small size and weight (10 kg), fuel consumption of about 0.5 lira per hour, produces 5-6 kW of heat. It is possible to melt it more strongly, but it is not necessary: it can explode. The design is loved by motorists: the garage heats up quickly even in extreme cold, it consumes oil economically, and it is also compact. Therefore, it can be called "garage".

The fuel tank of this small air gun is assembled from the bottom and top of a standard 50 liter gas bottle. It turns out very robust design(keep at least one circular seam from the cylinder - there is an o-ring that will give greater strength. You can make a tank from any other container of similar dimensions: 200-400 mm in diameter and about 350 mm high.

In addition to the fuel tank, you need to make a pipe in which the fuel-air mixture is mixed. The wall thickness here is at least 4 mm. You can use a pipe suitable diameter. The cones are made from structural steel no thinner than 4 mm.

The dimensions of the waste oil furnace indicated on the drawing can be adjusted up or down, but only by 20 mm - no more. Especially carefully it is necessary to boil the seams in the places of funnels: here the fuel-air mixture lingers for a long time, which is why the temperature is considerable.

The length of the chimney pipe is no more than 3.5 meters. Otherwise, due to too good traction, the fuel will be pulled into the pipe, which will significantly increase consumption and reduce heat transfer.

The figure on the right shows a hot-water version of a homemade stove. Around the upper part of the afterburning zone, several turns of a steel tube are made through which water is passed. In order for the temperature of the gases not to drop much, the coil is closed with a heat-reflecting steel casing. Cold water is fed from below, passing in a spiral, heats up and goes into the system.

12. Miracle oven in development

This option is very popular with summer residents and in garages. A convenient small stove, which is made with round or square burning zones. The design is so successful that there are even industrial options. For example, one of the enterprises sells it under the name "Ritsa". The diagram shows all the required dimensions.

13. A video report on how to assemble this oven will help you navigate the order of work.

Waste oil furnaces are made not only by the artisanal method, they are also produced by the industry. And there are both imported and Russian ones. But the type of construction they have is different.

European or American mining boilers belong to the category of liquid fuel furnaces. They use the principle of pressurization: oil is sprayed into small droplets, combined with an air stream. And the fuel-air mixture is already ignited. Imported factory stoves use the same principle, only a special burner is installed in which the fuel is heated before spraying.

To appreciate the difference in technology and structure, watch the following video. The device is completely different.

In Russian-made furnaces, most use the first principle - there is a hot (plasma) bowl in which liquid fuel turns into gaseous, mixes with air and burns. According to this principle, the following units are built:

Gecko. Produced in Vladivostok. They make units with a capacity of 15, 30, 50 and 100 kW / h. This - hot water boilers, which are built into the water heating system. Prices from 70,000 rubles for a 15 kW boiler.
Typhoon. They are produced by Belamos. These are heat generators: they heat the air. There are two options - Typhoon TM 15 and TGM 300, they give out 20-30 kW / h (price: 45,000 rubles and 65,000 rubles, respectively).
Herringbone-Turbo, there is 15 kW, there is 30 kW. These units heat the air, but it is possible to make a water jacket.
Furnaces "Teplamos" with power from 5 kW/hour to 50 kW/hour. They belong to the category of heat guns (heat the air). The work begins with the electric heating of the plasma bowl, when the required temperature is reached, the fuel supply begins and the forced air supply to the combustion zone is turned on. The price of these installations is from 30,000 rubles per unit with a capacity of 5-15 kW.

17. Drawings and diagrams

There are many models of furnaces that use waste oil. And below are a few schemes that can give you an idea, and a do-it-yourself oven for working out will be efficient, economical and safe.

20. At the most in the garage there is a fat sooo not even anything.

Many enterprises in the process of economic activity use various types of oils - motor, transmission, transformer and even vegetable, which, after processing, need to be put somewhere. Such mining can become an excellent type of fuel if used in a special furnace. Yes, and it is easier for enterprises to give away or sell cheaply to consumers used oil than to recycle it. This article will discuss what are the types and advantages of using furnaces for mining, and how to make them yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of using mining for heating

It is worth noting that in terms of thermal power, a mining furnace can be compared with an electric heater of 15 kW, while about 0.5-2 liters of fuel per hour will be required.

The principle of operation of the furnace for mining from a gas cylinder is direct heating air. It is advisable to use such units in large premises - winter gardens and greenhouses, garages, warehouses and repair shops. If in a car service, for example, there is always a large supply of used oil, then it can be used for heating - and there is no need to throw it away, and saving on resources.

Benefits of working out include:

lack of soot and burning during combustion;
fire safety - only vapors burn, not the used oil itself;
ease of use.

This fuel also has a number of disadvantages, in particular:

Untreated used oil from a car service cannot be used in boilers due to the large amount of impurities, since the main elements of the unit will become clogged. This is fraught with serious consequences, up to an explosion. At home, cleaning is impossible. Therefore, you need to purchase a special prepared oil.
By law, all enterprises that accumulate a large amount of used oil must conclude agreements for its disposal with special firms. This paid services. Therefore, it is unlikely that it will be possible to take working out from them completely free of charge.
At negative temperatures, mining freezes. Therefore, you need to find a place for storage for it, or deepen the container with oil into the ground, below the freezing level of the soil.

Types of waste oil boilers and furnaces

The greatest demand is for mining furnaces with a pyrolysis type of combustion and turbo burners. Pyrolysis ovens have two chambers. In the first chamber, the oil is heated and decomposed into components in the absence of air. The resulting vapors move to the second chamber, where, with full access to oxygen, they burn out, releasing a lot of thermal energy. By adjusting the oxygen supply to the chamber, the pyrolysis temperature can be controlled. Such ovens need periodic cleaning, and maintaining the desired temperature in automatic mode is impossible.

As for turbo burners, they work like diesel engines. Oil is injected into the combustion chamber, vapors are released and ignite. However, this type of boiler is extremely sensitive to the purity of the oil, moreover, it must be preheated.

Depending on the design, mining furnaces can be:

with drip oil supply;
with blowing;
made from a gas bottle.

Furnaces from gas cylinders

The most simple design at the furnace on waste oil from a gas cylinder. You can also use carbon or oxygen cylinders. Their main advantage is the large wall thickness, which ensures durability of the structure.

Such a furnace is designed for heating a room up to 90 m 2 in area. If desired, a water circuit can be connected to the heating boiler. Air injection is not needed, and the oil will spontaneously drain into the boiler. The height of the boiler body must correspond to the height of the flame so that the boiler does not overheat during operation.

To make an oil stove from a gas cylinder, you will need:

chimneys with an internal section of 10 cm, walls up to 2 mm thick and a length of 4 meters;
fuel tank with a capacity of 8-15 liters;
burner pipes;
metal corners;
welding with a set of electrodes;
drill and drills;
Bulgarian;
file;
tape measure and level.

Assembly technology

You will need a standard 50-liter seamless cylinder with walls no more than 1.5 cm thick. A thicker metal simply cannot warm up well so that the oil begins to evaporate. Inside the combustion chamber, the temperature will reach 600℃.

To get rid of foreign odor, the container must be rinsed several times. After that, it is filled to the top with water and placed in a container or buried in the ground to securely fix it.

Using a grinder, cut off the top of the balloon. After cutting starts, water will start to flow out of it. When it drops to the level of the notch, you can continue to work. The lower part will be the combustion chamber of the stove for mining from a gas cylinder, and the upper part will become a lid.

From below, legs from corners of 20 cm in length are welded to the cylinder and placed vertically. 10-15 cm should be retreated from the upper edge of the lower part of the cylinder and cut a hole for the pipe with a section of 5-8 cm by welding. The length of this segment can be 2-4 meters. It is inserted into the hole in the cylinder and welded parallel to the floor.

As a chimney, you can use a pipe with thin walls, from 4 meters long, which must be located strictly vertically. In this pipe, you need to make a small window with a damper so that you can control the access of oxygen to the furnace on oil from a gas cylinder.

A hole with a cross section of 5-8 cm is also cut in the chimney in order to dock it with a pipe section already welded to the cylinder. The hole should be at a height of about 1 m from the floor.

From the bottom of the cylinder, 10 cm retreat from the place of welding and a hole with a cross section of 2-3 mm is cut by welding. Next, with an indent of 5 mm, you need to make 9 more holes up, so that the last one will be at a height of 50 cm from the bottom.

Oil will be poured through the top cover into the boiler from the gas cylinder, so in this part you need to make a hole 5-8 cm in diameter.

Please note that only refined treatment should be applied in a gas bottle waste oil stove, as the fuel Low quality with impurities and alcohols can cause an explosion.

If you want to be able to heat food or water on the stove, you can weld a small square or rectangular platform made of steel sheet on the top cover of the cylinder. In addition, such a tray can also be attached to a pipe located parallel to the floor.

Operating procedure

The cylinder is filled with 2/3 working off, a sheet of paper is set on fire, placed on top of the oil and the furnace lid is closed. As soon as the temperature inside the oven reaches the desired values, the oil will begin to evaporate and the vapors will ignite.

Please note that for safety reasons, in no case should you add fuel to a working furnace. In addition, flammable materials, such as gasoline and kerosene, are also prohibited in such a unit.

When the fuel burns out and the stove cools down, residues are removed from it, and soot is removed from the lid by tapping on it.

Creating a boiler from sheet steel

Mining furnaces made of steel sheets are in demand among consumers. Their advantages are in compact dimensions (70 × 50 × 35), low weight, as well as the ability to connect to the heating system of the house. In addition, such designs are quite efficient in conditions of negative temperatures. On the surface of the oven, you can heat up or cook food.

The following consumables and tools are prepared for work:

sheet steel - 2 sheets of 4 and 6 mm thick;
chimney with a length of 4 m, an internal section of 10 mm, walls 4-5 mm thick;
steel, copper or tin pipe for the burner;
4 metal corners 20 cm high;
welding machine with electrodes;
Bulgarian;
file, hammer;
roulette, level;
blueprints.

The procedure for manufacturing a furnace from steel sheets

First of all, you need to choose a suitable detailed drawing with dimensions. According to him, blanks for the furnace are made.

The elements of the fuel tank are made of steel 4 mm thick, but the tank cover and the bottom of the fuel chamber must be made of 6 mm steel.

The steel sheet is laid on a flat surface, markings are applied to it and the details are cut out with a grinder right size. Scale and sagging are cleaned off with a needle file.

A strip of 115 mm wide is cut out of steel 4 mm thick, which is bent on a machine into a pipe with a section of 34-34.5 cm. The ends of the sheet are welded by welding - this will be the pipe of the oil reservoir.

A lid for a container with oil (a circle with a cross section of 34.5 cm) is cut out of the same steel. This cover must be welded to the pipe. In addition, 4 legs from the corners are welded onto it.

A strip 6 cm wide is cut out of steel 6 mm thick. This strip is twisted into a ring with a section of 35.2 cm. A circle of the same diameter as the ring (35.2 cm) is cut out of the same steel. In the center of the circle, a hole with a cross section of 10 cm is cut for the chimney. Stepping back from it 4 cm, cut out another hole, with a cross section of 5-6 cm for pouring oil. The prepared circle is welded to the ring. This will be the oil tank.

Another circle with a section of 35.2 cm is cut out of steel 6 mm thick. Stepping back a little from the edge of the circle, you need to cut a hole 10 cm in diameter. There should be about 11 cm between the center of the circle and the center point of the hole. A pipe will be inserted into this hole for docking with the chimney.

The branch pipe is made from a 10 cm pipe, its length is 13 cm.

Next, you need to cut a rectangular plate 7 cm wide and 33 cm long from 6 mm steel. It will serve as a barrier. The plate is welded inside the ring with a section of 35.2 cm closer to the hole for the nozzle. After that, an exhaust pipe 13 cm high is inserted into the hole.

The next step is the manufacture of the burner. On the pipe in the lower part, you need to make 48 holes 9 mm in diameter, placing them in 6 rows of 8 pieces each with an indent between them of 6 cm.

This pipe is inserted into the cover of the oil reservoir, which is cut from 4 mm steel. It is important to make sure that the pipe is level and tight. If necessary, you can adjust the level with a grinder and a file. After that, the parts are welded together, and the seams are cleaned.

An exhaust pipe 16 cm long is inserted into the oil filling tank.

Now the upper and lower parts of the tank can be connected, but not welded - just by inserting into each other. For strength, an o-ring with a cross section of 35.4 cm is put on top of the container. The level will help to check the horizontalness of the structure and the accuracy of matching parts.

Next, the burner pipe is welded to the oil filling tank. On the other hand, a structure connected by a ring must be welded to it. Before starting welding, it is worth checking the levels and correct installation of the elements. A round valve must be attached over the oil filling hole.

A pipe 4 m long will serve as a chimney. Outside the house, the chimney must be located only vertically so that the wind does not blow into it.

Please note that the chimney cannot be mounted in a horizontal plane. Provided that the chimney is too long, it can be fixed with brackets or steel bends.

How to use the oven

To decorate the stove and make it more attractive in appearance, you can make a special paint. The proportions of the ingredients are as follows: per 500 g liquid glass you will need 200 g of aluminum powder and 20 g of chalk. There is a lot of paint, so you can proportionally reduce the amount of ingredients.

After vigorous shaking, all components are mixed, and the paint can be safely applied to the oven with an ordinary brush.

Pay attention to a number of safety rules during the operation of the furnace:

install the unit away from drafts;
flammable objects and substances should not be left near the stove;
there should be about 50 cm of clearance on all sides of the oven;
it is important to avoid getting water into the oil container, as this will cause the boiling fuel to splash through the burner;
the chimney must be hermetically connected to the unit;
only technical oil can be fuel for such a furnace.

The oven warms up to operating temperatures within 5 minutes. Mining is poured into the fuel tank for 2/3 of its capacity, and about 20-30 g of solvent or gasoline is poured on top. They set fire to the wick on the wire and through the hole for filling the oil, they set fire to gasoline with it. So the oil will heat up faster so that evaporation begins. When the vapors ignite in the burner, you can see a steady flame fueled by the incoming oxygen. With the help of a blower, you can slightly adjust the intensity of combustion.

Please note that a burning stove must not be left unattended.

The mining stove has its advantages, since a heating device of this type is often used. They are used for heating

garages;
greenhouses;
shops and workshops.

In addition, they can heat retail space, warehouses and other industrial premises. The working furnace has such advantages as saving on fuel raw materials, high environmental friendliness, complex structure.

The principle of operation of the furnace

The stove for mining from a gas cylinder works on the principle of double combustion. For this, the stove is equipped with two combustion chambers. In the first chamber, vapors are generated from the combustion of spent fuel. After that, the vapors are fed into the second chamber, where they are mixed with air and burned. During this, heat is released, and the oven heats up to very high temperatures.

In order for the furnace to work out according to the scheme, it is necessary to provide air supply to both chambers. In the chamber where mining is burning, a regulator is installed that controls the amount of air.

The working furnace has several types:

from gas cylinder;
supercharged;
with drip fuel supply.

A gas cylinder stove can be made of metal. First, two combustion chambers are taken and boiled on top of each other. Legs are attached to the lower chamber. Previously, the chambers were connected by a pipe with holes. But for a welder to make such a design for a long time, especially since it requires high welding skills. Therefore, later they developed a stove for testing with a gas cylinder. The cylinder has a sufficiently thick surface, so it is fireproof and can be used long time. The service life of the cylinder is virtually unlimited.

When making a furnace (it doesn’t matter if it is a furnace with a cylinder or a pipe), there are several rules that must be followed:

The first chamber must be equipped with a regulating damper, which is responsible for controlling the air supply.
The chamber into which oil enters during mining is made collapsible so that it can be cleaned.
There must be a chimney at least 4 meters high.
The location of the chimney must not have inclined and vertical sections, that is, the chimney must be strictly vertical.

The balloon can also be used in different ways.

The simplest type of oven

Necessary materials and equipment:

used gas cylinder;
chimney pipe;
electrodes;
metal sheet for dampers;
a drill with drills for metal or a hammer and a nail;
welding machine;
Bulgarian.

Exist various options the use of a cylinder in the manufacture of a furnace for testing. The simplest one looks like this:

The top and bottom of the balloon is cut off.
A collapsible chamber is made from the cut parts, where the waste oil is burned.
Metal legs are welded from below.
A hole is made in the upper part, and a pipe is inserted there. A plate is installed in this pipe. Air and fuel will be supplied through this pipe for operation.
A hole is also made in the center, to which the other end of the pipe is connected, connecting both chambers.
The pipe must be perforated, that is, equipped with holes for air supply.
The middle part will be needed to make another chamber, it is welded to the pipe.
Finally, the chimney is installed.

Installing the oven will be easier if you make height-adjustable legs.

This is the easiest way to use a gas cylinder. There is another more complex furnace design, but for its manufacture you also need to follow the rules:

fill the combustion chamber by a third so that the oil does not splash out during working out;
if mining boils, you need to reduce the air supply;
it is necessary to clean the oil tank and chimney every week, otherwise the draft may deteriorate;
soot and soot can be easily removed by tapping the top of the unit.

If the stove is used for heating, then it can be easily attached to heating system. To do this, a tank is installed on the stove, the upper part of which is connected to the heating system.

In addition, unlike pyrolysis furnaces and solid fuel furnaces, the mining stove is fireproof, since the fire burns out along with the vapors and it cannot grow further.

How to fire up the stove?

Any waste oil is used to kindle the furnace. To kindle it, you need to put paper in the chamber, pour 1 liter of oil and light the paper. As the oil heats up, it will begin to boil, releasing heat energy. When operating during combustion, it is necessary to add oil to the chamber 5 liters at a time.

The cover that is used to supply air and oil must turn well on the bolts. The chimney is set strictly vertically to a height of 4 m. In the upper part, the furnace heats up the most, so over time, the metal burns out in this part. In order for the metal not to burn out quickly, the furnace is blown with a fan during operation. The stove can be painted with paint based on liquid glass, ground chalk and aluminum powder. The paint is prepared in compliance with the following proportions:

0.5 l of silicate glue;
200 g of aluminum powder;
20 g of chalk.

The indicators of the furnace when filling the used oil MG-10 are as follows:

at least 0.5 liters of oil and a maximum of 2 liters of oil are consumed per hour;
Efficiency - 75%.

When heating a room with an area of 80 m², the temperature inside the stove is kept at around 18 - 220 ºC. Such a stove can be made from a fifty-liter gas cylinder. The oil supply is automatic, the air is also supplied by natural draft. A stove from a conventional 50 liter gas cylinder.

If the stove is conceived with air, then the principle of operation is slightly different. Heat is received by a circuit with antifreeze and a heating radiator. The fan supplies additional heat with air. The circulation pump installed in the circuit allows you to avoid tilt rules heating pipes. Expansion tank must be either open-mouthed or half-open-mouthed. It is difficult to determine the power of such a furnace, but with its help a room of 150 m² is easily heated. At the same time, little fuel is consumed (about a liter per hour). At an ambient temperature of 0 ºC, the oven heats up to 150 ºC. The temperature can be raised with a damper, but fuel consumption will also increase.

When installing the furnace, there are several safety points:

you can not install the stove in places where there is a draft;
can not be installed in places where there are objects prone to fire;
when installing the stove, it must have a free space of half a meter around it.

The mining stove is made of sheet or heat-resistant metal. Top part of such furnaces is a heater. The middle part is a burner that replenishes the gas with oxygen, the lower part is an oil tank. The stove has openings on the front side for pouring fuel.

When ignited, the oil in the lower chamber begins to boil. The resulting vapors enter the burner. Here the gases mix with oxygen and burn completely. Residues during combustion exit through the chimney. The stove should only be placed on flat surface. Indoors, the stove may have a chimney at an angle, which increases heat dissipation.

Manufacturing costs

Usually, craftsmen assemble a stove from parts that can be easily found in any garage. Accordingly, the cost is very low. You just need to find or buy an old gas cylinder. The simplest oven, with a minimum number of components, can be assembled on a budget of $20.

Considering the fact that fuel costs almost nothing, it is safe to say that a do-it-yourself device will be one of the most economical among other heating equipment.

By their design, mining furnaces do not have any complex components. For manufacturing, no regulating and controlling devices are required.

This circumstance makes the furnace durable and reliable at minimal cost.

Most Popular Blog Articles of the Week

The mining stove has its advantages, since a heating device of this type is often used. They are used for heating

garages;
greenhouses;
shops and workshops.

In addition, they can heat retail space, warehouses and other industrial premises. The mining furnace has such advantages as saving on fuel raw materials, high environmental friendliness, and simple design.

The principle of operation of the furnace

The working furnace has several types:

with a gas cylinder;
supercharged;
with drip fuel supply.

A gas cylinder stove can be made of metal. First, two combustion chambers are taken and boiled on top of each other. Legs are attached to the lower chamber. Previously, the chambers were connected by a pipe with holes. But for a welder to make such a design for a long time, especially since it requires high welding skills. Therefore, later they developed a stove for testing with a gas cylinder. The cylinder has a sufficiently thick surface, so it is fireproof and can be used for a long time. The service life of the cylinder is virtually unlimited.

When making a furnace (it doesn’t matter if it is a furnace with a cylinder or a pipe), there are several rules that must be followed:

The first chamber must be equipped with a regulating damper, which is responsible for controlling the air supply.
The chamber into which oil enters during mining is made collapsible so that it can be cleaned.
There must be a chimney at least 4 meters high.
The location of the chimney must not have inclined and vertical sections, that is, the chimney must be strictly vertical.

The balloon can also be used in different ways.

Back to index

The simplest type of oven

Necessary materials and equipment:

used gas cylinder;
chimney pipe;
electrodes;
metal sheet for dampers;
a drill with drills for metal or a hammer and a nail;
welding machine;
Bulgarian.

There are various options for using a cylinder in the manufacture of a furnace for mining. The simplest one looks like this:

The top and bottom of the balloon is cut off.
A collapsible chamber is made from the cut parts, where the waste oil is burned.
Metal legs are welded from below.
A hole is made in the upper part, and a pipe is inserted there. A plate is installed in this pipe. Air and fuel will be supplied through this pipe for operation.
A hole is also made in the center, to which the other end of the pipe is connected, connecting both chambers.
The pipe must be perforated, that is, equipped with holes for air supply.
The middle part will be needed to make another chamber, it is welded to the pipe.
Finally, the chimney is installed.

Installing the oven will be easier if you make height-adjustable legs.

Back to index

This is the easiest way to use a gas cylinder. There is another more complex furnace design, but for its manufacture you also need to follow the rules:

fill the combustion chamber by a third so that the oil does not splash out during working out;
if mining boils, you need to reduce the air supply;
it is necessary to clean the oil tank and chimney every week, otherwise the draft may deteriorate;
soot and soot can be easily removed by tapping the top of the unit.

If the stove is used for heating, then a heating system can be easily connected to it. To do this, a tank is installed on the stove, the upper part of which is connected to the heating system.

In addition, unlike pyrolysis furnaces and solid fuel furnaces, the mining stove is fireproof, since the fire burns out along with the vapors and it cannot grow further.

Back to index

How to fire up the stove?

0.5 l of silicate glue;
200 g of aluminum powder;
20 g of chalk.

The indicators of the furnace when filling the used oil MG-10 are as follows:

at least 0.5 liters of oil and a maximum of 2 liters of oil are consumed per hour;
Efficiency - 75%.

If the stove is conceived with air, then the principle of operation is slightly different. Heat is received by a circuit with antifreeze and a heating radiator. The fan supplies additional heat with air. A circulation pump installed in the circuit makes it possible not to follow the rules for inclining the heating pipes. The expansion tank must be either with an open or ajar neck. It is difficult to determine the power of such a furnace, but with its help a room of 150 m² is easily heated. At the same time, little fuel is consumed (about a liter per hour). At an ambient temperature of 0 ºC, the oven heats up to 150 ºC. The temperature can be raised with a damper, but fuel consumption will also increase.

When installing the furnace, there are several safety points:

you can not install the stove in places where there is a draft;
can not be installed in places where there are objects prone to fire;
when installing the stove, it must have a free space of half a meter around it.

The mining stove is made of sheet or heat-resistant metal. The upper part of such furnaces is a heater. The middle one is the burner that replenishes the gas with oxygen, the lower part is the oil tank. The stove has openings on the front side for pouring fuel.

When ignited, the oil in the lower chamber begins to boil. The resulting vapors enter the burner. Here the gases mix with oxygen and burn completely. Residues during combustion exit through the chimney. The oven must only be placed on a level surface. Indoors, the stove may have a chimney at an angle, which increases heat dissipation.

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Stage 1

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Stage 3

Stage 4

Stage 5

Stage 6

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Stage 11

Stage 12

Stage 13

Stage 14

Stage 15

Stage 16

Stage 17

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Stage 19

Stage 20

Stage final: rocket launch

Finally

Advantages and disadvantages of using mining for heating

Types of waste oil boilers and furnaces

Furnaces from gas cylinders

Assembly technology

Operating procedure

Creating a boiler from sheet steel

The procedure for manufacturing a furnace from steel sheets

How to use the oven

The principle of operation of the furnace

The simplest type of oven

How to fire up the stove?

Manufacturing costs

The principle of operation of the furnace

The simplest type of oven

How to fire up the stove?

What else to read

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