How to cut linoleum to a pipe. How and how to cut linoleum at home: a step-by-step description and recommendations Tools for cutting linoleum

Today, manufacturers floor coverings offer wide range of linoleum models, different in density, color, pattern. Linoleum has received wide recognition due to its attractive appearance, unpretentiousness and affordable price. In addition, anyone, even without building experience, can finish the floor with this material. How to do the job as efficiently as possible - read the article.

Regardless of the choice of linoleum according to its external characteristics, the result of repairing the floor in the apartment will depend on whether the material is laid correctly.

Linoleum flooring technology has a lot of nuances associated with the thickness of the coating, the base material, and the laying direction. Errors in flooring can lead to deterioration appearance linoleum, an urgent need to replace the coating due to the consumption of seams, the formation of bends, bumps, material breaks.

To get a smooth coating that will last more than one year, you need:

1. Lay the material only on a dry prepared base, otherwise the linoleum may go in waves, start to be squeezed in some places.
2. For laying linoleum concrete base, the floor should be carefully primed: this will strengthen the surface and ensure high adhesion of the treated surface with the following leveling or adhesive layers.
3. The wooden floor in front of the flooring should be covered with plywood sheets 50-60 mm thick.
4. Old parquet or laminate flooring. before laying the material, it is necessary to restore (where necessary), sand it, and cracks and chips in the base must be puttied.
5. Before laying, the material should be kept rolled out in the room for a day. Otherwise, the linoleum can change its size after the work is done, which leads to the consumption of seams, the appearance of waves.
6. If it is necessary to lay several strips of linoleum, then first you should lay a large piece, and lay the smaller one so that it overlaps the previous one by 50 mm.
7. Linoleum with a marble pattern is best placed perpendicular to the window: this way the pattern will be lost in the light of the sun's rays, and the coating will look solid.

There are several options for laying linoleum, which are selected depending on the purpose and size of the room.

Floor finishing: how to properly glue linoleum

The ideal way to lay linoleum at home is considered seamless, in which the roll is rolled out over the entire area of ​​​​the room and fixed with the help of skirting boards and sills. With this method, due to the lack of joints, the coating is smooth, attractive and wear-resistant. The seamless method is often used for laying linoleum in the kitchen, since rarely does the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis room exceed 20 square meters. In rooms with high traffic or non-standard shape, in order to increase the life of linoleum, the strips are glued to the floor. You can make such styling yourself.

For this it is necessary:

1. Prepare the floor for coating. The floor surface must be clean and level. If there are cracks or irregularities in the floor, they are eliminated with a leveling mixture.
2. Cut out the material. When cutting pieces of linoleum big size, you should leave a supply of material that will serve to compensate for its shrinkage. For sheets 5 m long, this is 20 mm, up to 11 m - 40 mm, over 12 m - 60 mm.
3. Lay out the rolls and lay one half of the material on the other so as to free up part of the floor (you need to bend the sheets in half).
4. Using a roller, cover the floor with glue and glue half of the material.
5. It is good to walk along the roll with a dry roller to expel air bubbles from under the material and achieve better adhesion of the linoleum to the floor.
6. Repeat the procedure with the other part of the roll.
7. Cut the material along the skirting boards with a special knife.
8. Install skirting boards and thresholds in doorways.

Linoleum can be glued in another way, applying the adhesive directly to the material using a notched trowel. Before furnishing a room, after laying linoleum on glue, you should wait a day.

How to cut linoleum at home

Cut linoleum with ordinary kitchen knife will not work. This will require special device, which can guarantee a clear cut. Experienced builders advise choosing a knife for a specific coating. The choice of tool depends on the thickness of the material and its density. So, you can cut linoleum using a clerical or construction retractable knife, a linoleum knife or floor coverings.

When cutting material, the following rules should be followed:

1. Cut the material, moving gradually, with small cuts. In this case, you should carefully mark the linoleum from the inside.
2. In order to finish internal corners, the material must be cut in a V-shape.
3. If the material has a pattern, you should lay it face up and mark it so that after cutting the picture does not turn out to be beveled. A mistake made during cutting cannot be corrected.

Two strips of linoleum can be perfectly matched by overlapping and cutting them together. But this requires firm hand and suitable for the material sharp knife, otherwise you can easily make a fringe from the edges.

Hook-shaped blades are used for the final trimming of the material, and trapezoidal blades are used for marking. Fitting the material to the wall is performed only after the main cutting of the material is completed. At the same time, the material should not reach the walls by 50-100 mm. In order to evenly attach the linoleum to the wall, use a wall marker or a metal ruler.

How to put a skirting board on linoleum

Today, in the building materials market you can find floor plinths different in width and color, material of manufacture (PVC, MDF, wood, veneered models). This allows you to perfectly match the skirting board to the color and texture of the selected linoleum. The method of mounting the skirting boards depends on this.

Experienced builders advise using PVC skirting boards for linoleum: their specifications the best way suitable for this type of flooring.

To fix plastic skirting boards to the floor, dowels 6x40 in size are used, which are mounted at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other (if the wall is uneven, then more often). Wooden plinth, mounted on self-tapping screws. The installation of the veneered skirting board is carried out using the installation clips that come with the product.

The plinth is mounted after the linoleum has completely subsided (one day after laying the material).

Before fixing the plinth, a connector or corner is put on the strip of the product (depending on the place of attachment and the length of the wall). Work is carried out starting from the far corner of the room.

How to lay linoleum (video)

Thanks to a wide selection of paintings, today, linoleum can be matched to the design of any room. Laying the material does not take much time and is not particularly difficult: you can lay the material yourself even without building experience. The main thing is to take into account the above recommendations for preparing the base and working with linoleum, and you will get an attractive coating that will last at least 25 years!

Linoleum is a practical and externally attractive floor covering that is found in houses, apartments, cottages, offices, shopping malls, public institutions ... Almost everywhere. How to lay linoleum, how to do it right - read on.

On what basis

Even when choosing a floor covering, the question arises of what to lay linoleum on. Is it necessary to prepare the base and if so, how seriously. The answer is simple: linoleum can be laid on any base. The main thing is that it be even, strong and clean. Preparation takes place and can be easy and quick if the ground is even. In this case, the floor is simply cleaned and dried. If the floor is with potholes, large irregularities, preparation takes longer. For correction, a screed or self-leveling mixtures can be used, a dry sheet screed is also used. building material(plywood, OSB, MDF boards). It all depends on the type of foundation.

Concrete and wood floor

You can easily lay linoleum on a concrete floor. In general, there may be drops on the surface, the main thing is that they are not local - small and deep pits and tubercles are excluded. Changes can be, but smooth. If there are significant irregularities, before laying linoleum, it is better to fill in the leveling screed.

Stack it up top coat and on a flat wooden floor. Many people think that under it the wood will rot. If the wood is dry, without signs of infection with fungi and mold, then nothing will happen to it. At correct styling a sealed layer is obtained, so that moisture does not penetrate inside. If there are seams, they are welded, so that moisture penetration into them is unlikely. To prevent water from getting under, choose wide models and press them well to the floor. More reliable way- lay a self-adhesive tape for sealing under the linoleum around the perimeter.

If the boardwalk itself is made correctly, with normal ventilation, then there is nothing for it to rot. If you are very worried, before laying linoleum, treat the floor with antiseptics.

If in plank floor there are noticeable gaps, they will be visible on the coating after a while. If they are small, they can be puttied, using grinding to level the surface. Sometimes the floorboards buckle, rising slightly at the edges. Sanding such a floor will not work - a lot of nails. In this case, or if the gaps are too large, it is recommended to invest over the boards sheet material- plywood, OSB, MDF. They are good because they do not have a very large thermal expansion, and the OSB does not yet absorb moisture (you can take moisture-resistant plywood), and this is important in wet rooms(in the kitchen, for example).

And fiberboard as a base for linoleum is not a very good option - with increasing humidity, they swell, fiberboard goes in waves. After drying, the original form is not restored, so that the linoleum laid on top is hunched and wrinkled.

Before laying linoleum, you need to lay or. This is necessary if the plank floor "plays", the boards sag. If you lay the coating immediately on the boards, it will crack in the places of deflection, and quite soon. And this means - the replacement of the flooring, and there may be problems with the boards - moisture can seep into the cracks.

That's what "with a run-up of seams" means

When laying any sheet material for leveling the floor under linoleum, it is placed with a run-out of seams - so that they do not match (as brickwork). Small seams are left between the sheets, which are then filled with elastic (non-hardening) mastic.

Is it possible to put new linoleum on the old coating

We must say right away that it is advisable to remove the old coating before laying linoleum. But this can be problematic and then flooring is allowed on top of an existing one. True only if the old floor is even or irregularities can be repaired New linoleum put on the old one, on the tile, on the parquet. If there are defects in the base - chips, dents, protrusions - they are eliminated, sealed with putty, cut off, the seams between the tiles are rubbed so that the surface is even.

Lay linoleum on parquet, tile or other linoleum. But only under one condition - the base must be even

With old linoleum, as with a substrate, there are usually no problems. If there are bumps, they are pierced, filled with glue, cracks are smeared repair staff- cold welding for type "C" linoleum or sealant. When laying new linoleum on the old one, there may be another problem - it will turn out too soft and significant depressions can form under the legs of the furniture.

On parquet, as well as on a plank floor, it is advisable to lay a substrate of sheet material - the planks can also “walk”, tearing the coating.

Glue or not

Before laying linoleum, you need to decide whether you will glue it or not. There is an opinion that it is not necessary to glue it in houses and apartments. It is pressed against skirting boards, furniture, large appliances, etc. All this "holds" him in place. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It usually works on hard semi-commercial and commercial types of coating, and does not work on softer household ones.

The thing is thermal expansion. In summer, when it's hot, linoleum expands "creeping out" from under furniture and appliances. In autumn, it shrinks to its previous size, but does not return under furniture. Waves and bumps form. Therefore, the majority agrees that it is necessary to fix it.

If you don't glue it, it might look like this

Just keep in mind that linoleum either does not need to be glued at all, or glued completely. Glue in some places - almost guaranteed to get humps and swellings after a while.

What to glue

Before laying linoleum, you need to figure out how to glue it. If the room is small, fit household linoleum in one piece on a smooth base (sheet material, old linoleum, etc.), you can fix it with double-sided tape. It is fixed securely, but due to thermal expansion, humps can form between the adhesive tapes. Therefore, if you glue linoleum, then glue it.

There are two types of adhesives:

The first option is more familiar to us, but when changing the coating, we have to suffer for a long time, tearing off the coating and glue residue from the base. The fixation holds “on shift” no less reliably, but allows you to calmly re-lay it several times (from 5 to 8, depending on the composition).

Fixations

Fixings are used for laying household and semi-commercial linoleum. If we talk about the price per liter, then fixing is much more expensive. But her consumption is much less (100-180 g / square), so gluing one square meter it will be cheaper. From all points of view, this is the best way. Here are a few normal fixers you can work with:

There are other manufacturers, new products appear every day. But, before buying, carefully read the instructions. See what can be used on your base, with your type of coverage.

Adhesive for linoleum

Definitely do not use glue with a solvent (neoprene). Technologies have changed so that such glue gives a color change (red spots appear). Only marmoleum (material based on natural ingredients) can be glued with this glue.

If you decide to use glue, here are brands that give good results:

If you need to save money, household linoleum “with pile”, on a jute or foam base, can be glued to PVA or Bustilat M. If it is placed on concrete, screed or other similar coating, first the glue is diluted with water (1 to 1), the surface is primed with this composition (possibly twice). After that, PVA or Bustilat is applied and the coating is rolled “wet”.

How to glue the joints of linoleum

To connect the joints of linoleum there is a special glue. It is called "cold welding for linoleum". These are small tubes with a sharp nose, which the composition is filled directly into the joint. It does not so much glue as it dissolves adjacent areas of the coating, creating an airtight seam.

There are two types of cold welding for linoleum:

When laying linoleum, of course, type A is used. Pay attention to the instructions for use. There are they different types require varying drying times.

If you haven’t worked with cold welding for linoleum joints before, practice on scraps beforehand. When you work out the technology, and understand what and how to do, you can start gluing joints indoors.

Another point: the glue for connecting the joints of linoleum emits until it polymerizes harmful substances. Therefore, windows and doors are opened in the room, providing ventilation. It is better to work with gloves, and a respirator will not hurt.

How to lay linoleum with your own hands

In order for self-laid linoleum to please the eye, not swell and wrinkle, it is necessary to complete several mandatory points. The first is related to the preparation of the foundation. You already know that it should; but be even. In addition, it must be dry and clean. No dust, no greasy or other stains. We collect everything with a vacuum cleaner, remove stains with a suitable agent, dry everything thoroughly. We do all this carefully: dust impairs adhesion to the base, debris particles will eventually come through the coating.

Second required condition: before laying linoleum, it must be “aged” for some time in a straightened state. Preferably on site. It is rolled out, left for at least 2 days, but better - for 5-7 days. So he straightens out, takes "working" dimensions. After that, you can start cutting.

How to crop

Let's start with how to cut linoleum. There are two options - a knife and scissors. Both of them can work normally, they just have to be sharp.

It is more convenient for someone to use a clerical knife, but a shoemaker's or a sharply sharpened kitchen knife is also suitable, although there are special ones. They have a retractable blade, like utility knives, but the handle is curved and the blade hardly bends.

On a clerical knife, the protrusions that hold the blade must be iron. In this case, the blade is more elastic and there is less chance that the cut will go to the side. That's precisely because the blade can "lead" some craftsmen prefer powerful scissors. To make it easier to cut, they make an incision, and then, without making cutting movements, they simply rip the coating along the intended line.

Now about where to cut. Roll out the linoleum so that it goes a little on the walls. If there are several canvases, an overlap of at least 5 cm is made at the junction. If there is a pattern, lay out the canvases in such a way as to achieve a match. Then the junction will not be noticeable.

Linoleum is cut in the corner, the joint remains overlapped and cut off after gluing the main part. The canvas is pressed to the floor, cut off with a knife or scissors. Please note that if work is carried out in a cool room, in summer the coating from high temperatures will increase in size. If you cut the canvas close to the wall, in the summer a roller forms near the baseboards. He then, with more low temperatures, can stretch, but spoils the view in summer. Therefore, when cutting, step back from the wall about 1 cm.

Glue to the base

If you decide to lay linoleum without gluing, it is usually fixed along the baseboards with double-sided tape. The same material is glued in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe doors. In this case, turn off the edges, stick adhesive tape on the base. We return the edges to their place, carefully level the coating. After making sure that it lies evenly, without distortions and waves, remove the protective tape from the adhesive tape and glue the coating.

If you work with glue, you act a little differently. We twist the coating to half the length. The composition is applied to the floor (strictly according to the instructions). If there is a joint, a strip about 35 cm wide without glue is left on both sides of it. After waiting for the time set according to the instructions, the linoleum is rolled out again, pressed well.

According to the technology, a pressure roller is required - a heavy cylinder (about 50 kg in weight), movably fixed on the handle, which squeezes out air and presses the coating to the base, ensuring good bonding. If there is no roller, they take a plastic trowel, which is used when and everything is pressed well with it. You can use a board wrapped in felt or felt, or something similar.

Then glue the other side. If the canvas was laid in one piece, we can assume that the laying of linoleum is over. It remains to fix the plinth. If there are joints, we continue.

Seam processing

If there are two or more canvases, the seams will need to be processed. There is a simple way - take a T-shaped metal bar and fix it at the junction (attached to self-tapping screws or dowels, depending on the type of base). The method is not very aesthetic, but reliable. This is exactly what they do if two pieces of linoleum with different colors are joined under the door.

A more aesthetic way is to use "cold welding for linoleum" glue. First you need to cut off the excess material at the junction. We take a metal ruler (a level or a rule will do), apply it at the junction, cut both sheets with a knife along it, remove the extra strips. It is very important to cut through both canvases at once. In this case, if the pattern is chosen correctly, the connection is imperceptible, since the two canvases match perfectly. If the base under the linoleum is hard, you can put something soft under the joint - a piece of felt, linoleum, etc. Then it will be easier to cut both canvases at a time.

We turn away the non-glued parts of the coating along the seam, apply glue, wait, if necessary, for time according to the instructions, glue the coating in place, roll it with a roller. We wait for the time required for the glue to dry (according to the instructions).

Next, we take cold welding for linoleum joints and wide masking tape. We glue the junction with this adhesive tape, then, with a clerical knife, cut it along the junction. This is necessary to protect the coating from accidental ingress of the composition. It is reactive and will melt the coating, leaving an unsightly stain. The next steps are:

If everything is done correctly, the joint is almost invisible. While it is not necessary to test it - several hours are required for the final polymerization. But that's all. Linoleum is laid and you know how to lay it with your own hands.

If you thought overhaul in the apartment, then an integral part of it will be a new screed and laying a new floor covering. And since on this moment linoleum retains the first place in distribution among floor materials, then we offer useful information on the cutting process of this type of coating. Laying linoleum is a simple task, accessible to everyone, difficulties can arise when cutting it, because, despite the variety of sizes of linoleums, it is impossible to pick up a piece exactly according to the size of the room.

It seems to many that cutting linoleum is quite simple, because it is quite dense and does not warp when moving. In fact, difficulties may arise in the process of cutting it, this is especially true for the joints of two pieces, when a perfect seam is needed. Cutting along the edges of linoleum is quite simple - sharp construction knife glides over linoleum like clockwork. The cut may turn out to be uneven, but this is not scary, because the edge will hide under the plinth, but at the junction of two pieces of linoleum, the seam may turn out to be uneven, and this will be striking.

Usually linoleum is cut like this: first one piece is cut off, and then they try to fit the edge of another piece under it. No matter how smoothly the masters try to draw a line and follow it exactly, the seam does not come out perfectly even, and the slightest gaps become visible. In this case, you need to do this: put two pieces overlapping each other and cut them together. Let's consider in more detail different cases cutting linoleum, and what tools you can use.

How to cut linoleum

In order to cut linoleum smoothly and quickly, it is important to choose the right tool. Of course, you can get by with an ordinary knife, but in this case there is a risk of getting jagged edges and notches. There are several options for cutting tools, here are the most common ones:

• Large stationery knife with interchangeable blades. As soon as it becomes noticeable that the tool has become dull, the blade must be changed. This option is suitable for thin linoleum.
• Special knife for linoleum with a fixed curved blade. It is possible to cut all types of linoleums.
• Knife for flooring (shown in the photo). Works well for cutting straight lines.
• Construction retractable knife. It is similar to a clerical one, but more powerful and reinforced, so it allows you to perform more species works.

Linoleum cutting technology

Now available for sale different linoleums, differing not only in pattern, texture and color, but also in the thickness and density of the protective layer. The last parameter directly affects how the flooring will be cut. If the linoleum is hard and dense, then you need to cut it with a more powerful tool and apply more effort, but it will not tear if you accidentally touch the edge. But cheap thin linoleum requires very careful handling, because the slightest negligence can damage it.

Linoleum is the most common of modern floor coverings. Such popularity is explained by the ideal surface quality, its artistic beauty, ease of installation and low cost of the material.

However, cutting linoleum often causes difficulties for untrained installers of this coating, so we decided to pay special attention to this topic.

Linoleum properties

Compound

Before talking about how to cut linoleum, you should dwell on its features and properties, which are determined, first of all, by the composition of this material. Known coatings, consisting of natural ingredients, as well as many synthetic analogues and substitutes.

The whole variety of linoleums can be divided into five main groups:

1. Natural coatings are made from linseed oil, fabrics, coniferous resin, wood chips or flour, dyes and other auxiliary components, it is the most environmentally friendly pure material for flooring, while natural linoleum is very wear-resistant, strong and durable, but subject to biological corrosion and decay, does not like excess moisture and afraid of mold. Used for flooring in public places, institutions and premises with high traffic;
2. Coatings based on polyvinyl chloride or PVC linoleums. It's artificial polymer coatings, which can be homogeneous and heterogeneous, have various properties and the degree of wear resistance, differ in the composition of the layers and purpose. These types are used in commercial premises, are relatively inexpensive and easy to install;
3. Rubber coatings, which are often called the word "relin". These are mats made from waste rubber, rubber and bitumen. They are distinguished by absolute resistance to water and moisture, increased elasticity and ease of installation, sufficient wear resistance and durability, they are mainly used in production shops and industrial premises;
4. Nitrocellulose linoleums, consisting of colloxylins and having a homogeneous single-layer structure. They are distinguished by increased moisture resistance and good elasticity, but at the same time they ignite quite easily and contain potentially dangerous components, therefore they are not used in residential premises;
5. Alkyd coatings have a mandatory fabric base and have excellent heat and sound insulation. They can change their geometric dimensions over time, while the width of the piece increases, and the length, on the contrary, decreases.

Important!
Of all the listed types of linoleum, we are interested in PVC linoleum and alkyd coatings, since others are either not used in residential premises, or their price and installation complexity do not allow us to classify these products as consumer goods, as is the case with natural materials.

Of the two remaining types - alkyd and PVC - the most popular and convenient is, of course, PVC linoleum. Therefore, we will talk mainly about him. And if so, then it's time to talk about the structure of this material.

Structure

Coating structure is divided into homogeneous and heterogeneous products. Simply put, these are single-layer and multi-layer mats.

With homogeneous materials, everything is clear: they consist of a single layer, most often it is a rather thin and cheap PVC or nitrocellulose mat, but we have already said that nitrocellulose is not used in residential premises, so this material can be forgotten once and for all.

To work with single-layer material, there is no need to use any special cutters for linoleum, it is enough to have a simple construction knife with replaceable blades or another simple cutter for linoleum.

Heterogeneous products can differ greatly in the number and composition of layers. There are two-layer, three-layer and multi-layer coatings, with a foam polymer substrate, sound and heat insulating underlay, fabric base, antiseptic or polyurethane coating, antistatic outer layer and other additional and special layers.

The heterogeneous structure is the most preferable, as it saves you from the need for separate selection, purchase and installation, sound insulation and insulation, since all these components are already included in the material.

Although cutting such a coating is somewhat complicated compared to homogeneous products, it is still done without any problems by hand without much effort.

Attention!
There are special brands of floor coverings equipped with additional layers to reduce wear, antistatic layers, chemically inert coatings, etc.
These varieties are not used in everyday life, but are used in laboratories, technical rooms, hospitals, sports complexes and other special purpose premises.

Peculiarities

In order for the cut of linoleum to turn out to be even and not cause any difficulties, when working with this material, some features inherent in this class of products should be taken into account.

pvc enough durable material, but if the edge of the sheet contains sharp depressions or small cuts in the direction of the main part, then the sheet may begin to tear along these cuts and depressions. Conclusion: the cuts should be as even and accurate as possible.

Polyvinyl chloride is very easy to cut with sharp tools, so any inaccurate or accidental movement immediately leads to deviations from the specified cutting direction and damage to the material. Conclusion: you should cut as carefully as possible, it is advisable to use a pattern or ruler of great length.

The coatings between themselves are produced by the method of cold chemical welding, and for it it is necessary to fit the sheets to each other as accurately and carefully as possible. This is also important from an aesthetic point of view, because a coating with inconspicuous neat seams looks much better than a sloppyly cut floor.

Therefore, before cutting linoleum, you should make sure that the measurements and the quality of sharpening the blade of the tool you are using are correct, and also exclude the possibility of the cutter deviating from the given trajectory.

You can cut linoleum only after it "gets used" to the room, that is, it accepts its temperature and humidity, finally changes its size and reaches stable rigidity. To do this, the material is delivered to the site in advance and wait for several days.

Important!
It should not be forgotten that the material does not like creases and kinks, as they greatly complicate the installation and spoil the external attractiveness of the surface.

Slicing rules

Tool

When laying PVC flooring and not only use a different tool for cutting linoleum. It can be a simple clerical or kitchen knife, a construction knife, a knife for carpets, a special cutter for floor coverings and other devices.

Advice!
If you are not a professional installer of floor materials and not a foreman at a construction site, you should not buy expensive cutting tools, just buy a good construction knife or a linoleum knife, since the effectiveness and cost of special tools is justified only for large amounts of work and constant use.

Of course, the best way to cut linoleum is determined by each installer based on the specific conditions and characteristics of the work, the material and their skills, preferences and experience, but knowledge of the range available funds and cutting methods have never bothered anyone.

Longitudinal straight cutting

If you have to cut a piece of the roll along the entire length or width, then the instructions for such work are very simple: mark on the wrong side or front side the line along which you want to cut, apply a ruler to it and cut the material along it with a knife or other cutter, suitable for such work.

Using a curved linoleum knife, you can do without a ruler, making a cut directly on the weight. But for this it is better to have a full hand and some experience. In any case, be as careful and accurate as possible, haste and neglect can cost you extra money and labor.

Advice!
If you have rooms of the correct shape (square or rectangle) and not very large, you can not suffer and order cut linoleum.
Such a service is available in most building supermarkets, often its cost is low or even zero.

Curved cuts

If your room contains elements irregular shapes, roundness, bay windows, columns, pipes, bends, etc., then you will have a complex pattern of material for the floor.

The contours of such lines are transferred to the coating using a pattern, stencil or “by eye”, and then a cut is made along this line with scissors or a knife, however, in our opinion, it is still more convenient to use scissors, especially for inexperienced installers.

Advice!
Before cutting linoleum for columns and bends, you should carefully measure these elements and accurately transfer their contours to the material or plywood pattern so that after cutting the sheet repeats all bends as accurately as possible.
Then the floor in the room will look especially impressive and harmonious.

Docking

Nonets, the most painful topic: joining sheets together. The quality of seams and joints directly depends general form coverage and beauty of your floor, so this issue should be treated with special attention.

In fact, everything is very simple. The sheets to be joined are placed on the floor with a pattern up, the patterns are matched by shifting the sheets relative to each other, then a small overlap is made (1 - 2 cm), the overlap is pressed with a ruler and both layers of material are cut under the ruler, as shown in the photo above.

Conclusion

Linoleum, especially modern, is cut quite simply with familiar and inexpensive tools. However, for successful work you need knowledge simple rules listed above, and problems should not arise at all. In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic." width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen">

As a result, the edges of the sheets match perfectly, in addition, the pattern on the front side continues smoothly and the transition is almost invisible. This perfectly meets the requirements of cold welding, which is used for gluing the joints of rolls and sheets of linoleum.

Conclusion

Linoleum, especially modern, is cut quite simply with familiar and inexpensive tools. However, for successful work, you will need to know the simple rules listed above, and problems should not arise at all. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

It gets boring all the time to live in the same rooms, I want to somehow diversify the apartment, and the repairs were done so long ago that no one even remembers when. And so the whole family decided to change the linoleum in the kitchen, in the corridor and in the hall, now you can find such original ornaments. Moreover, we have instructions - here it will help us cope with this task. Just how to cut it? Hey, we'll figure it out later!

Measurements made, went to choose. What you need to find quickly, paid for, the seller also offers knives for cutting it. Additional sales, what does he need? We cut it with an ordinary kitchen knife, it makes no difference, or with tailor's scissors, big ones, they lie somewhere. The material is dense, easy to use, will not wrinkle while we cut.

Well, let's get started? The knife is sharpened, now as oil will go, we’ll finish all the work in a day ... We coped with the kitchen, now we need to cut off a piece of linoleum for the corridor, here the joint turns out, we have to try, the edges turned out to be something not very smooth, with notches and as if a line was drawn along the pattern. Well, it doesn’t matter, we’ll still fix the new plinth, so it will cover ...

Is everything so simple?

In fact, it is a common misconception that you can evenly cut linoleum with an ordinary knife. If you want to connect two pieces of linoleum in the middle of the room, or when going into the corridor, then it is better to use special construction knives. Otherwise, even a slight unevenness or a millimeter bend will clearly show through the floor under the coating.

There is one secret of the masters, how to fit two pieces of linoleum to each other: put the edge of one on the edge of the other, with an overlap, and cut them together. So they will lie perfectly, butt-to-butt and without gaps. But in this case, there is a risk of spoiling both pieces - an insufficiently sharp knife and unsteady hands can turn these edges into a fringe.

Creative but ugly. We'll have to go back to that good soulful person, who wanted to warn us in advance against all these problems - to the seller in the store. He wanted the best. What are we? And we save.

He offered us the following:

• Construction retractable knife - it is made like a clerical one, only stronger and more powerful, as it is designed for dense materials.
• Linoleum cutting knife - its blade is sharp and fixed, such a knife is suitable for linoleum of any thickness.
• A flooring knife is more suitable for cutting in a straight line.

As an option, we were shown another large clerical knife with a supply of interchangeable blades. But it does not suit us, it can only be used for thin linoleum, and we took an expensive, thick, insulated one. As a bonus, the store gave us a small manual "How and with what to cut linoleum." Looking ahead, I will say that it was very useful to us, we advise you to use it too.

Actually, the choice of one or another tool for cutting the coating depends on its thickness and density. For thick, hard, dense linoleum, a construction knife is suitable, it will be easier for them to cut the material, although cutting will require more effort. To cut thin linoleum, without a protective layer and insulation, you can take any of the tools listed above, but the work will require more care in handling a thin coating.

Instructions for preparing and cutting linoleum

Necessary tools: cutting knife, rulers, square, spatula with teeth.

Preparation and execution of work:

1. 1. The new linoleum needs to be rolled out and left in the room for leveling for a while.
2. 2. It is necessary to cut the measured pieces, taking into account allowances for shrinkage of the material and cutting. So, for pieces up to 6m, you need to leave a 2cm allowance; up to 10m - 3-4cm; over 10m - 5-6cm.
3. 3. Finished pieces of linoleum must be left for 4-5 days for complete straightening in the form of a stack of sheets.
4. 4. Next, you can lay out the pieces on the floor. In places where you need to additionally cut off a small part in order to bypass pipes, ledges, columns, etc., we proceed in the following way: we make markings on thin paper, transfer it to cardboard or other dense material, and exactly according to this pattern we cut linoleum.
5. 5. If the room does not have any protrusions and the linoleum is a slightly larger rectangle, then we place the material on the floor and perform work, bringing the sheet to the desired size.
6. 6. At the base of the corners, the covering should be cut in a V-shape - it should be pressed to the floor with a ruler / corner and cut along the ruler.
7. 7. If the linoleum is patterned, then at first it is better to lay it face up and make notes on which it should be cut off so that the picture does not turn out to be beveled.
8. 8. Starting from the side near the wall, cut off the linoleum along a long ruler and fix the edge with a heavy object. On the resulting piece, they outline the line of the future joint.
9. 9. The next piece is overlapped on the finished one and both are cut along the intended line, then one is pushed back and joined back to back. The rest are cut in the same way.

The quality of cutting linoleum depends on the right knife. Do not take risks and choose a knife immediately with a coating, so that at the end of the work you really feel the uplift of the mood from the finished new “floor”, where the joints are not visible.