Assemble a boat from wood. The legendary pirate ship "Francis Drake": making a wooden model with your own hands

Making ship models is the oldest of man's "technical hobbies": for almost six thousand years people have been immortalizing their ships in miniature. The oldest model found during excavations - a ritual silver boat with oars from a tomb in Mesopotamia - is dated by archaeologists to the beginning of the fourth millennium BC.

Russian professional ship modeling is much younger, but it is already three centuries old. The production of ship models began with the Petrovskaya “model chamber”, in which the “Admiralty” models of all new ships under construction were stored. These were exact, detailed copies of the hull design with the plating partially removed, serving as visual aids for ship carpenters who were poorly versed in drawings.

In fact, Peter I himself was the first serious Russian modeler. At the age of seventeen, having returned from the “Grand Embassy” to Europe, he built such a model of a frigate. By order of Peter, all models were kept as samples for posterity. The collection of our Naval Museum at one time began with the collection of this very “chamber”, located on the site of the current fountain in front of the Admiralty.

Probably, many people, and especially those living in St. Petersburg, with its history and traditions, at least once had the desire to build a model of some sailing ship with their own hands. However, without the necessary skills and tools, this can hardly be done at home, guided by special literature and ship-modeling sites. The technologies described there are often quite complex, requiring special equipment, materials and almost always already presuppose the presence of a certain experience, so making a ship is not a simple task. As a result, for someone whose skills are limited to school labor lessons and folding paper boats, the difficulties that arise during work are more likely to discourage desire than to create interest. It can be difficult to find recommendations that allow you to create something significant, starting from scratch. But still, if you wish, it is quite possible to build a fairly decent model, having at your disposal the simplest tools available in any house where there is a man with “hands”, and a minimal set of materials. You just need to initially set yourself up for the fact that everything will work out, definitely (!), but almost never right away. That a failed operation, a screwed-up part (it’s good if there’s only one!) is the norm, a necessary acquired experience, and not an emergency.
Serious professional modelers, whose works, sometimes costing tens of thousands of dollars, take first place at international exhibitions, as a rule, have a rather skeptical attitude towards models made of papier-mâché. This is understandable - paper, even well-glued, will still remain paper. But for someone who is trying his hand at modeling for the first time, this working technique will be the most preferable. She doesn't require any expensive materials, no tools, and as a workplace allows you to limit yourself simple table with a piece of plywood placed on it and a grill for the bathroom, so as not to create dust in the room. It’s great if you have an electric drill with a tripod that can be mounted on fresh air. But if not, then the conditions described above will allow you to start, and most importantly, finish your first model. All the models presented in these photographs - from a Roman galley to an armored cruiser - were built using this technology and precisely in these conditions. Fifteen years ago, after an injury, suddenly finding himself isolated from environment, I had to remember my childhood hobby and try to turn it into a profession. After reading a fair amount of literature, I realized that none of the techniques given there in their pure form suits me. As a result of many trials and experiments over the years, a technology has emerged that allows it to work independently of any external circumstances. However, with all the accessibility of the method, it still won’t hurt to acquire something before starting work. The most important thing, of course, is what and how all this will be built. So, what is needed in order to make a ship out of wood with your own hands:1.1

MATERIALS

Array- i.e. ordinary wood, necessary primarily for making spars. For mast columns, pine slats of the appropriate section are best suited. Birch is worse: it is more difficult to select even sections from it and more difficult to process. The thinner parts of the masts - topmasts and flagpoles, yards, the rest of the spar are perfectly made from birch kebabs, which can sometimes be bought in various super-hypermarkets. It is worth paying attention to the fact that they exist different thicknesses: I came across 3.5 and 3 and 1.8 mm. For the smallest parts, it is good to use wooden toothpicks. Other wooden parts; in theory, and in theory, those made from solid wood are easier and better obtained from 2-3 layers of veneer of the corresponding species glued together by “Moment” in 2-3 layers.

Glue. Optimally - furniture PVA. Proven - Novgorod PVA-M "Akron". If there isn't one, another one will do. The main thing is that the purpose should indicate “for gluing” wood products, and not “for gluing” - this one holds much worse. When buying, ask to try it - glue two pieces of veneer together by squeezing them with a clothespin, wait 30 minutes until it dries and try to tear them apart. If the glue is good, the veneer will tear, but not the glue. In addition, apply a smear to the surface - a matte, but absolutely homogeneous, transparent film without a milky tint should form. Estonian PVA is good, but sometimes it doesn’t stick to our dried one and falls off. Those. Having started working with one, it is better to continue with it. And, of course, the ordinary “Moment” is also irreplaceable.
Varnishes, paints. Varnish is best suited "Aqua" - i.e. on water based. Dries quickly and does not leave streaks on paper and cardboard. And, which is essential when working in an apartment, there is practically no smell. It makes sense to purchase both colorless and tinted to match dark wood. Paints - after trying several options, I settled on acrylic ones. Of these, the most necessary is gold. Proven - "Inca Gold". Where possible, it may be easier to stick on the colored paper mentioned above instead of painting. In general, in the traditions of the Russian modeling school, painting models was not very common. Unlike Europe, where they strived for one hundred percent similarity with the original even in shades, in Russia they tried to select valuable types of wood so that their color, although not exactly, approximately, would correspond to the color of the painted original.

Fabric and thread. Any white cotton fabric is suitable for sails. Naturally, the thinner the thread and the tighter the weave, the better. The main thing is that there is no synthetic admixture, otherwise it will not stick well. The same applies to threads. Pure cotton, however, is now difficult to find, but if the percentage of synthetics is small, then you can try them. For standing rigging you need black threads, for running rigging it is better to use light beige threads. In terms of thickness, all possible numbers are useful: from the maximum - 10 or even 0, if you can find it, to 40 - 50. In the literature, it is sometimes recommended to tint the fabric with a weak solution of tea for authenticity. I tried it and didn’t like it: it may be more reliable, but the pure white sails look much nicer. And here are the threads, if you can’t find them desired color, it’s better to lightly tint it with wood stain.

Wire and foil- preferably copper or brass, but any will do, even from tubes. Small nails, plasticine, self-adhesive film, etc. - This is not an exhaustive list; new ideas can come to mind at any time during the entire work process.

TOOLS

Besides standard set tools that do not need comment, such as a plane, pliers, wire cutters, a screwdriver, clamps in pairs - larger and smaller, a hammer, a hacksaw, chisels, etc., there are several specific things that are worth mentioning separately. Electric drill. If you have an idea to get down to business seriously, and not limit yourself to one test copy, you should definitely get a drill. It is advisable to choose something more powerful - 500 watts, no less. Very good if with a tripod and adjustable speed. Extremely useful thing- grinding disc. Those. not a sharpening one (that wouldn’t hurt either), but a grinding one - on the surface of which you can attach sandpaper. Saws. A jigsaw is a useful, although not essential, thing. A hacksaw for metal will come in handy more quickly (albeit for working with wood). It’s good to have two blades for it: small and large. Files. Four or five pieces different shapes and it’s worth having notches, but, from my experience, the main and almost irreplaceable ones are flat, small, the largest you can find. It’s also a good idea to have a set of needle files. Knives. Your favorite and necessary knife(pictured) I made myself about 25 years ago from canvas on metal. There are no such things on sale. There is no work without it - only it can cut veneer into strips with high quality. It was about five (!) centimeters longer - it was worn down... So, if you make a similar one, then with a margin in length. When choosing a blade for a blade, try to bend it: if it remains bent, it is too soft. If it breaks, it will fit. You can make it out of the debris. Take a longer blade so that it goes almost through the entire handle. The rounding at the end of the handle is also not accidental: it is convenient for them to rub in parts being glued (especially on the “Moment”), and to simply smooth out unevenness.
Pay attention to the sharpening - it is one-sided, but ground off Right side blades - that is, if you cut with it along a ruler, leading like a pencil, then the flat side is pressed against the ruler, and the ground chamfer faces away from the ruler. Blade angle - approximately 30, sharpening - 15-20. From the same cloth it is worth making small thin cutters, like chisels, different widths: 4, 6, 8, 12mm - although not immediately, but gradually they will all come in handy somewhere. You can find wood carving kits with semicircular cutters on sale. They, too, sooner or later, will definitely be needed. Awl. Ordinary shoemaking. But you will have to do one more thing yourself - from a long thin nail or from a thick sewing needle (conveniently a machine one) on a long (15-20cm) handle. Well, while we're on the subject, a set of sewing needles different sizes will also be needed. Brushes. It’s worth getting a dozen and a half at once - all sizes: from 2 to 20mm, different hardness for different needs. Sometimes, instead of a glue brush, for small jobs it is convenient to use a thin wire wound to a stick.
Scissors. It is worth having at least two, and preferably three pairs: a separate one for fabric, for foil, and for paper, veneer and cardboard. Sanding paper. A minimum of three numbers is required: from the largest for leveling the body blank for veneering to the smallest for sanding for finishing. Well, the average one is for intermediate work. Sharpening stones for cutters - it’s worth getting three of them, including the smallest whetstone for final finishing.
Little things - necessary, and simply convenient to use: drawing supplies, large tweezers, small pliers with long thin jaws, clothespins, rubber bands "for money", a crochet hook, a table vice, a transparent plexiglass ruler 50 cm long, indelible black and brown markers, wood stain. Yes, you never know what else you can come up with creative approach to the point!
And forward. So, having acquired all of the above, or being confident that you will get what you need at the right time, you can, inspired, get started! I won’t advise you where to get the drawings - there is a lot of literature, the Internet is huge and dynamic - sites are born and die. And I myself Lately I wasn’t interested in this direction... In any case, since you got here, you can get to the drawings. Study several projects of different ships, comparing their designs and details. Often details missed in one set are perfectly presented in another - for a similar ship of the same class, and vice versa. Their stories are worth reading too. It’s good when the debut is not the first thing that catches your eye, but the fact that as a result of the selection you like more than everyone else - it will be much more interesting to work. Such a model has a much greater chance of being finished - it would be a pity to leave it unfinished... Well, let's start, of course, with the body.
Author - Dmitry Kopilov
Exclusively for the site

Create a model old ship you can do it yourself without buying a ready-made structure for assembly. To achieve a high-quality result, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.

Materials

To make a historical ship with your own hands, prepare:

• plywood or balsa wood;
• thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
• wood glue;
• paper;
• pencil.

In this model of the ship, not plywood was used as a base, but balsa wood. The choice was due to the ease of working with the material. Unlike plywood, where you need a saw to cut, with balsa wood everything was simple sharp knife. You can also take thin strips for work from any material, they just have to bend well. Wood glue should not be replaced with hot glue, much less super glue.

Step 1. On paper you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can print them if you find suitable layouts on the Internet. Please note that your ideas may undergo slight changes as you work. This is not critical if you just want to build a ship in old style, and not repeat an exact copy of a specific vessel.



Step 2. For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. The ship itself was also assembled. Most of the time was spent making the central part of the ship. Then the front, rear and deck parts with the mast were made.

Step 3. First of all, using the existing sketches, make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure that all its edges are symmetrical. If there is a slight deviation somewhere, correct these flaws. Check that when attaching the ribs, they are exactly at an angle of 90 degrees.





Step 4. Once the skeleton is ready, start decorating its sides. To do this, glue a long strip along the center line of the side part. Continue to focus on it when you glue the rest. It is better to glue the slats in stages to make your work easier. Apply enough glue, but make sure that it does not flow down the slats. Additionally secure the slats using clamps, leaving them in this form until the glue has completely dried. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and continue gluing the slats in the next area.







Step 5. Work out all the places where gaps form between the slats epoxy resin. When ready, coat all parts of the ship with wood varnish.



Step 6. After the main work, move on to finishing. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, carefully glue slats over areas with obvious defects to hide them. You can make it from rattan horizontal line, emphasizing the smooth shape of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.



Step 7. Masts need to be made from wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. There will be two masts in the ship. Adjust the rods in advance to the calculated dimensions. To attach the masts, cut two pieces of wood measuring 4 x 2 cm. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. Make a reinforcing lattice from small rods and assemble the entire structure.





Step 8. Make a template for the ship's deck from paper and, based on it, build a deck part from wooden strips. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill holes for attaching the masts. Insert and glue the masts. Use plywood to make the side rails of the ship.





Step 9. Glue the wooden strips at the front and back of the ship in the same way. They need to be glued to the side and in the deck part, and rods and handrails should be made from pieces of plywood. All parts are fastened with wood glue. back part Don't forget to raise the ship with steps.

Probably each of us read books about pirates in childhood. These were sea robbers who plied the seas and oceans, attacked merchant ships, and dumped all their loot in port taverns. These books were filled with intrigue, a special romanticism and a sense of adventure. For some people interested in the subject of piracy, their childhood hobby has grown into a permanent hobby, which is expressed in the manufacture of wooden models sailing ships. This is an extremely interesting activity, and ready-made models act as an excellent element of interior decoration. For example, you can make a miniature copy of the famous pirate frigate on which the famous pirate Francis Drake sailed, who went down in history as one of the most famous corsairs of all times.

Who is Francis Drake?

In the Middle Ages there were a huge number of pirates, however, only a few managed to preserve the memory of themselves. One of the famous corsairs was the Englishman Francis Drake, who received the nickname “Iron Pirate.” He began his pirate career at a very young age as a ship's chaplain, after which he served as a sailor, and at the age of 16 he became a ship's captain. During his life he visited large quantities sea ​​campaigns and was able to win no fewer battles, including those with the English Royal Navy, so among the pirates he was considered a very successful, experienced and formidable captain.

Drake commanded several ships, among which the flagship was a galleon with three decks and five masts, which was called "Golden Hind", which translated means "Golden Hind". The captain chose this name personally because the ship was so fast that it could overtake any merchant ship and escape pursuit by warships. It is thanks to its high speed and excellent maneuverability that the ship gained its popularity.

A little about modeling

The creation of miniature ship models occurs in stages. Each stage is aimed at creating individual elements sailing ships, which are subsequently united into single design. This process is very painstaking and requires from the creator not only extreme concentration and perseverance, but also the manifestation of imagination, since very often it is necessary to change the materials used or replace them with others that are more suitable for specific model. In addition, in order for the model to be more realistic and copy the original as best as possible, you should be careful with the size of the originals, which takes a lot of time to find and transfer to the model.

Making a wooden model of a ship: what is required for this?

To create models of sailing ships you can use various techniques However, the most common is the production of prefabricated parts cut from wood. This process is quite complex and requires a certain set of tools. In order to make a model of a ship from prefabricated parts you will need a knife, a hammer, a chisel, a drill with a set of drills, wooden block, a piece of thin fabric for sails, a rope, a wooden spire of the required length, wood glue, and when making models large sizes It would be a good idea to stock up on a saw.

Carving of a ship from wood

At the first stage of modeling, blanks are made from which the model will be assembled in the future. To do this, you will need a chisel and a hammer, with which you need to remove the old bolts, as well as sandpaper or a file to make the block perfectly smooth. Next, you should clean the bark from the bark. In order for the work to go quickly, and to avoid injury during its execution, it is necessary to hold it towards the plane.

When the blank for the future ship is ready, you can proceed to the next stage of modeling. On the block you need to draw a sketch with the markings of the future ship, and then cut out the ship’s hull from it. It is worth noting that this will require a well-sharpened knife, the blade of which should be at an angle of 10 degrees with respect to the block. Despite the fact that this part of the work is one of the easiest to model, it is nevertheless the most responsible, since when performing it you have no right to make a mistake. Therefore, slowly remove the wood in small layers, trying to keep the workpiece symmetrical.

Carving of the bow and sides of the ship

When the preliminary model of the ship's hull is ready, you can move on to the jewelry part of the work. On the blank you need to draw the side parts of the hull, as well as the bow and stern. This is done in a similar way as described above. First, everything is drawn with a pencil, and then cut out with a knife. At the same time, you must try to make all parts even and smooth so that the model resembles the ship as closely as possible. When making the bow, one of the sides of the block is slightly filed, after which it is given the shape of a saw cut.

Preparing the model and installing ship rigging

The ship "Golden Hind" had three masts, so on the model you need to drill three holes for them, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the thickness of the spiers. The distance between the holes should be the same and sufficient to ensure that the block does not crack during drilling. If suddenly a crack appears, then it is better not to glue it, but to redo the model again, since cracks will ruin the entire appearance ship. To ensure that the masts stand securely and do not fall, it is better to place them on wood glue.

Raise the sails!

At the final stage, the sails are installed. Since our galleon model has only three masts, only six sails are required - one large and one small for each of them. To make them, you will need thin material, from which you need to cut the sails to the specified dimensions. The sails must be trapezoidal in shape. Before installing them on the mast, you need to make notches on the spiers, after which the sails are set with glue. Both edges should be glued strictly in the middle of the sails. To ensure that the process is as comfortable as possible, and the result does not disappoint you, it is better to start installing the sails from the rear mast, gradually moving towards the bow.

To decorate the sail, you can use a flag or a top sail, which is called a flying sail. Everything is clear with the flag and no one will have any problems with its production, so there is no point in describing the process of sewing it. But the flying sail deserves special attention. To make it, you need to cut a diamond out of fabric, its shape resembling a kite. Next, two perpendicular threads are glued to the part, which connect the opposite corners decorative element, and a thread is attached to one of the corners, with the help of which the flying sail is fixed with reverse side main sail. It is worth noting that a flying sail can be made both for the stern mast and for all others. It all depends on your wishes and perseverance.

Once the ship model is completed, it can be painted in Brown color and open it with varnish, after which it can either be used to decorate the interior or even be launched into the water.

DIY ship models represent a very exciting hobby, which is now an honorable and prestigious activity.

Not everyone can assemble a model of a ship, no matter what its dimensions. But what comes out in the end can be a true reason to be proud of yourself. If you are interested in this topic, then our diagrams and tips will be timely and useful. When starting to engage in mini-shipbuilding, it will be useful for you to know that this activity is not a boyish whim.

Ancient crafts in the form of fine work from wooden planks, which represented different types large ships were found in the tombs of the pharaohs. It is logical that they did not send just anything on the last journey with the ruler. Accordingly, the conclusion suggests itself that either the ruler himself liked to spend his free time this way, or he was given gifts that were very dear to him personally.
Buy ship models yourself maybe ready-made. There are many craftsmen on the Internet who present ready-made works with price tags to the public. This item is purchased by collectors or those who want to give a special gift. Indeed, it will be very expensive, because you will have to “kill” a lot of time. To begin with, we advise you to acquire the necessary literature, which clearly shows each stage of the creation of your work of art. For the first test, you should always take material that you don’t mind spoiling. It could even be a ship made of papier-mâché, the main thing in this matter is that the hand does not tremble. Everything else will come with experience. Well? Good luck!

How to make models of sailing ships with your own hands?

To get started, we suggest collecting everything necessary materials, which will be useful to you in your work.

This is definitely a veneer that you need to look for in furniture workshops. Even waste is ideal for you, you just need to look at the size and quality. There are a huge number of varieties, get what you can if possible. It’s good if the wood is soft, it will be easier to work with. Take whatever thickness you find, because wood is needed both thin and thick. In any case, the supply does not bring trouble, so do not hesitate to ask for more. After the veneer, start looking for good cardboard. Its thickness should also be varied: from book covers to regular children's cardboard in sets. In order to finally finish DIY ship models, you will need wrapping paper, old, unnecessary wallpaper and a set of colored paper (impregnated with paint on both sides). If you are making a sailboat, you will also need slats on which the sails will be attached directly. The glue is PVA, which can glue furniture and super glue when you can’t wait any longer. To finish individual parts of the model you will need paints, which should be purchased water-based. Also, for those who are especially partial, a varnish will be needed to secure the entire process. Finishing touch- these are threads, fabrics. You choose the color of the sails and the fabric accordingly. It is desirable that it be cotton, without any synthetics. You should choose regular sewing threads, but of decent thickness (numbers 10, 40, 50). Sometimes some people advise putting wire next to the work, because it will come in handy where the awl is too thick or the needle is too thin. In general, this is everything you need for full-fledged work on the first construction.

DIY wooden ship models: diagrams and drawings

The first thing to start working with is to decide on the size of the future ship, because this will make it easier to work with the drawing. Here is the most basic drawing that will help you organize the stages of work.

When everything is ready, it’s time to start assembling the structure, either as a whole, starting from the bottom, or step by step, working through each section. You will need patience when you need to wait for each sizing to dry, because you cannot pile new structures on a base that has not yet dried. Finishing is the most final stage, which requires almost more patience than all previous work. Here you need to be extremely careful, because an incorrectly made smear will ruin the whole impression. Feel free to ask questions on the relevant forums where experienced specialists will always tell you correct solution. We wish you good luck and are waiting for your photos finished work, such as in this image.

Sheets of compressed and glued wood veneer are the main material for all modeling enthusiasts. This material is easy to cut, well processed, and you can find drawings of ships made of plywood on the Internet, since it is from plywood patterns that many craftsmen begin to get acquainted with this art.

Creating ship models yourself is not the easiest task, but it is doable. You will need some knowledge and skill. In this article we will tell you about the basic techniques, and if you wish, you will hone your skills yourself.

Necessary materials

If you want to make a small ship model, you will need the following materials:

1. Wood - linden, walnut, cedar or other species, preferably non-fibrous and soft. Wood blanks must be smooth, free from damage and knots. Wood can be used as a material for the main parts of the model - the deck and hull, as well as for small elements.
2. Plywood. This material is most in demand. For ship modeling, balsa or birch plywood is used, as they are less susceptible to chipping when cut. Model ship plywood usually has a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.
3. Veneer – thin plates natural wood expensive breeds. As a rule, they are used for veneering, that is, gluing surfaces made of inexpensive materials.
4. Fastening elements - laces, thin chains, brass and copper nails, threads, etc.

You will definitely need wood glue, tracing paper and cardboard to transfer the templates. Small parts are made of metal. As an alternative to metal, you can use colored polymer clay.

Every job must begin with preparation, and modeling is no exception. First you need to decide what you plan to build. If you have not encountered the art of ship modeling before, we recommend that you first find drawings of a plywood ship on the Internet: they usually contain the information you need and even a beginner can understand them.

On sale you can find ready-made kits that allow you to assemble a ship from ready-made parts. Beginners should be interested in such kits, although they are sometimes quite expensive. It is better to master the technology from the very beginning.

Print out the drawing and make templates for the main elements based on it. We transfer the templates to plywood, and then proceed to sawing.

Cutting out parts

Blanks can be cut with a manual or electric jigsaw. The latter is more expensive, but with it you will have less hassle when cutting out small elements:

1. We do it in plywood sheet starting hole and insert a blade or jigsaw file into it.
2. We cut out the part, moving along the intended contour.
3. We process the created workpiece using a file, removing small chamfers along the edges and removing burrs and chips.

When working on one part (sides, deck, keel, etc.), you need to immediately cut out everything necessary. This way you will spend less time and the work will move faster.

When everything is prepared, you can begin assembly.

Assembly sequence

Work must be carried out in the following sequence:

1. First, we put transverse frames on the keel (longitudinal beam). At the bottom of each of them there is usually a groove for attaching to a plywood keel.
2. For connection you can use standard glue, but you can use special adhesive mixtures, which are intended for ship modeling.
3. We fix the upper parts of the frames on the deck. U simple models The deck of ships consists of one sheet of plywood, but for complex ones it can be multi-level.
4. After the glue has dried on the frames, you can begin covering the side with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should not exceed 1.5 mm, since only in this case can you bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
5. To bend veneered plywood, it can be heated and moistened. After this, the material bends easily, and over time takes on a stable shape.

You can cover the body for painting with a continuous sheet. To imitate plank cladding, it is better to use strips up to a centimeter wide, depending on the scale.

Secure the glued plywood with clips and clamps and leave to dry.

Final finishing

Once the case is assembled and dried, you will need to do the following:

1. Make deck superstructures from thin plywood and secure them.
2. The sides must be built up so that they protrude above the plane of the deck.
3. We cover the surface of the deck with wooden veneer or line it with an awl, imitating plank cladding.
4. Make and install all the small elements such as the steering blade and steering wheel.
5. Attach the masts with additional devices (spars), set the sails and stretch the structure using rigging threads.

Finally, the plywood elements must be treated with stain and varnished. This will provide the souvenir with at least a couple of decades of complete preservation.

conclusions

The first thing you need before creating a wooden ship with your own hands is desire. Almost anyone can make a simple plywood boat with their own hands - you just need patience and minimal skills with a jigsaw. If you decide to implement a complex drawing with many small details, you will need to work hard. This is why we recommend starting with the simplest models. Gradually improving your skills.