Correct caulking of a log house. Bath caulk: step-by-step instructions

Look beautiful wooden houses. They are warm because during construction, insulation is placed between the crowns of the logs. But after shrinkage, cracks may appear different sizes, the cracks that spoil it appearance, makes it cold. In addition, cracks can become a place for rot and mold to appear. To prevent this from happening, after the structure shrinks, the log house is caulked with moss or other material.

A house or bathhouse made of logs shrinks in the first 2 years after construction. In the first year, the shrinkage of the log house reaches up to 20 cm. This factor should be taken into account when designing a house. This is due to loss of moisture and drying out.

During shrinkage, loose junctions appear in those places where everything was previously sealed. To eliminate this, resort to caulking. It is necessary to take measures to seal the cracks so that there is no heat loss or drafts. These activities are carried out only after the structure has settled.

Material for sealing cracks

Caulking material

Inter-crown insulation - material for thermal insulation of seams wooden houses. Insulation is often made from natural materials, which are distinguished by their environmental friendliness and ability to “breathe”, which provides sound and heat insulation. To fill the cracks, the following materials are used: tow, felt, mosses (red, white). Each has advantages and disadvantages.

Each owner of a log house independently chooses the type of material, taking into account the quality, financial capabilities, and availability of the material.

Caulking technology

Before caulking, the moss is dried. However, before starting the caulking process itself, it is wetted, otherwise it will crumble in your hands and it will be impossible to do any work with it. Caulking with moss is carried out with special tools: caulking, mallet.

The caulking tool is made from the same wood as the log house. This is done so that the tool and the log have the same hardness upon contact. Then there will be no traces left on the log house. A wooden hammer is used to strike the caulk, which makes it possible to push the moss into the crack with force and tightly fill the space.

Caulk with moss begins from the bottom row, passing along the perimeter. This approach avoids distortions. The crown passes completely from the outside to the inside. Before use, “Kukushkin flax” is formed into 100 mm strips, laid parallel to the log, and cracks and cracks are sealed using special tools. White moss Before work, fluff it up a little. The laying is done perpendicular to the log with hanging fibers on both sides of the log by 100 mm, which are then pushed into the gap with tools.

Caulking moss at a log house is not a difficult job, but it requires care. We must ensure that the house does not warp, that the seams are complete, that the logs do not fall out or tear apart from each other. What is needed in this matter is perseverance, time, and patience.

Putting up a log house from a log or timber is not the whole task. You also need to know how to properly caulk this log house: seal the gaps between the crowns and the cracks that form when the wood dries out. This is done so that the log house of the bathhouse loses as little heat as possible.

Basic principles

The quality of the log house's assembly is determined by how the crowns are laid. It is important not only to cut out the bowls and grooves correctly - between two rows of logs or beams, be sure to lay inter-crown insulation.

The insulation is installed during the assembly stage of the log house

What it will be - moss, tow or jute - is up to you, but such a layer must be present. When building a log house, you need to lay insulation in two layers:

• on the lower crown so that the edges of the insulation protrude beyond the edges of the bowl by 3-5 cm, the width of the insulation, in general, is taken 5-10 cm more than the width of the bowl;
• Insulation is also placed in the bowl of the upper crown; its edges protrude beyond the bowl by 3-5 cm.

Please note that when using moss or tow, there is no need to “tap” the material. When tapped with a hammer or an ax butt, the moss fibers break and dents form on the wood, which are directed across the fibers. Such damage can lead, in the future, to the development of foci of rotting. It is enough to simply compact the fibers with the palm of your hand, leveling and probing the layer; if you come across large foreign objects (cones or sticks are often found in moss), simply remove them.

Laying moss when assembling a log house

When using tape insulation, you can fix it using a construction stapler - damage to the wood from the staples is minimal, and the material is held securely. It is advisable for two people to lay the “insulated” crowns so that they can take the log from both ends and lower it so as not to move the insulation.

How to caulk a log bathhouse

All materials for caulking can be divided into two main categories: natural (tow, hemp, moss, jute, etc.) and industrial sealants. Sealants are applied faster and easier to work with. Usually, to reduce the consumption of sealant, a cord is placed in the gap between the rims, and only then a sealant is applied on top of it, which, when wet, is leveled with a special spatula.

When caulking, it is not appropriate to have a spatula-scalpel at hand. Working part The tool is made of hardened carbon steel

Synthetic sealants have a number of disadvantages:

• some of them do not tolerate exposure to ultraviolet radiation - when irradiated, they lose their properties, crumble and are blown away by the winds. The problem is solved by strengthening strips that will cover the seams from ultraviolet radiation;
• Some sealants for log houses, when dry, form a monolith, which, when the wood expands/contracts (depending on weather conditions) interferes with the process and contributes to the destruction of adjacent wood fibers. For this reason, it makes sense to use flexible sealants.

If you decide to use one of the sealants, carefully read the instructions and description, make sure that it is compatible with the type of wood from which the log house is built and can be used in your region ( temperature regime) and has the necessary qualities.

The use of sealant is justified in the case when it is used to seal caulked cracks: after caulking the log house twice with tow, moss or jute, wait for the log house to completely shrink and acquire operational dimensions, after which a cord is laid in the seams, and then the sealant is applied.

Natural materials for caulking also have their advantages and disadvantages, in addition, each of them requires certain preparation.

Moss

The most proven material for caulking a bathhouse is moss. It has been used for centuries. Today, many other materials have appeared, but they have not surpassed moss in terms of characteristics. It is more convenient to work with new materials (especially tape materials). This is undeniable, but the qualities of moss remained unattainable for them. Chief among them is the ability to resist bacteria and high resistance to rotting.

Not aesthetically pleasing, but practical

The moss is first dried and then wetted again before use. This restores elasticity to the stems. The soaked moss is laid out in an even layer so that its ends hang down on both sides of the log/beam. After completing the collection of the log house, too long stems of moss are trimmed, everything else is tucked in and tucked into the cracks of the log house - the initial caulking of the log house is performed. This is followed, after six months and after a year and a half, by repeated caulking.

Jute

Increasingly in construction wooden baths and jute is used in houses. And not just jute fibers, but roll material. Jute fiber has good characteristics: it has good thermal insulation properties, because of large quantity lignin - a natural resin that serves as a binding element - it is practically not subject to rotting and has low hygroscopicity. Even with high humidity, the jute remains dry to the touch.

Jute insulation can be of several types/
Jute tow
When making this material, the fibers are not torn, but combed, asking them required direction. With this processing, jute retains its properties to the maximum extent. But such material is inconvenient for caulking: it is hard and not dense enough, working with it is quite difficult, caulking has to be done several times: firstly, the birds pull the fiber into nests (the material is natural), secondly, it shrinks and becomes compacted ( due to the rigidity, it is not possible to immediately achieve the required seam density in one go).

Jute tow

Jute felt
This is a material consisting of 90% torn jute fibers and 10% long flax fibers. The material is dense and flexible at the same time. It is much easier to work with, but if the fibers are not long enough, it tends to clump and fall out. When choosing jute for caulking, pay attention to the length of the fibers - only fibers longer than 2 cm will provide the required elasticity. Material made from shorter fibers will become denser and lose most of its properties, and short fibers will simply spill out or be blown away by the winds. Another disadvantage is that this material often becomes a breeding ground for moths. Therefore, before use, it is advisable to treat it with impregnation against moths and rot.

Jute for baths - jute felt

Flax-jute
Combined tape material, consisting of half soft flax fibers, half hard jute fibers. This combination attracts many builders, but this material is prone to rot and is often attacked by moths. So, just like jute felt, flax-jute requires treatment against rotting and moths before use.

Tow

Tow is waste that is generated during the primary processing of natural fibers. For caulking log houses, tow made from jute, hemp and flax is used. The characteristics of the material and its quality depend on the source raw materials, the degree of purification of the fibers and their length. Construction tow is pressed into square blocks. For use when caulking log houses made of common block a strip of material is pulled out, twisted into a rope and placed into the seam. Combed tow, which is sold in rolls, is more convenient to use.

Tow for a bath

It is inconvenient to work with such material: to achieve a uniform layer when used as interventional insulation difficult, and for caulking a log house, tow is excessively rigid, which makes it almost impossible to achieve a tight filling of the seam the first time, and you have to periodically re-caulk it. If the choice is between moss and jute tow, then we can definitely say that moss is better for a bath - it has the ability to inhibit the development of putrefactive bacteria and fungi.

When to caulk a bathhouse

The log house is assembled, when is the first time you can caulk a fresh log bathhouse? If the log house was assembled with moss or tow, then remnants of material stick out between the crowns different lengths. In this case, you can perform the initial caulking immediately: trim the overly long fibers, tuck them inward and tuck them into the seams. There is no need to be zealous about this. This is preliminary work, the purpose of which is to remove fibers. But this must be done following the rules of caulking. If the log house is assembled on tape insulation, nothing needs to be done.

Bath after initial caulking

The first “serious” caulking is carried out approximately six months after the collection of the log house. During this time, the logs/beams will lose most of the excess moisture, new cracks will appear, the crowns and corners will basically “sit” in place. At this time, the first caulking is carried out. After this process, you can install doors/windows.

A second caulk will be needed about a year after the first. A year and a half has passed since the construction of the log house, the log house has become stable. Now all seams and cracks are checked, all defects are eliminated. Depending on the material and quality of work, it may be necessary, in another five years, to caulk the seams again. But there have been cases (usually this is the result of the work of “shabashniks”) when caulking errors are corrected for several years in a row. Most often, this need arises if the log house was built without inter-crown insulation.

How much tow do you need for a bath?

Any natural material for caulking, it is compressed many times during installation and a large amount of it can fit into a log house, even with good interventional insulation. No one can say exactly how much tow is needed for a bathhouse: it also depends on what material the log house is assembled from and how the grooves are cut out in the logs. At manual chopping grooves usually go away more material. Also, a sanded log requires more material compared to a rounded one. Less is required for a log house, but even here the amount of tow or moss that will be used to seal the cracks depends on the accuracy of the geometry of the beam and the depth/number of cracks that appear during drying.

Caulking rules

Caulking a log house is not a very difficult task, but it is long and tedious. Everything needs to be done thoroughly and slowly, so it takes a lot of time - it took 10 days to caulk a small 5*4 bathhouse (one worked for 7-8 hours).

The main thing is not to overdo it in the efforts made when hammering in the insulation, which can lead to the log house rising by 15 cm or more.

Rules for caulking a log house:

• You need to start with lower crown, moving along the entire perimeter, first from the outside of the building, then caulk the same crown from the inside. And only after that start processing the next crown.
• When caulking, pay attention Special attention at the corners - this is where the most significant gaps are often found.
• At primary caulk, first you need to pick up the hanging material, bend it down and tuck it into the gap. The tool should be used as needed. Perform this operation on a section about a meter long, then move on to the next section.
• In the same area, use caulk and a wooden mallet (sometimes a hammer is used, but the mallet does not knock off your hands so much) to compact the material. You need to hit the caulk until the material begins to spring back. Then move on to the next section.
• After compaction, a gap formed. A piece of insulation is again placed in it. If it is tow, you need to roll it into a tourniquet required thickness or tear off a piece of the required length from the tape. This piece is also hammered with caulk and a mallet until a springy effect appears. Repeat this operation until the gap is completely filled and move on to the next section.

Like every business, caulking requires certain skills. Since there will be more than one such procedure, you will eventually gain skills. As you gain experience, you will notice the mistakes that you made at the beginning of your activity - this will be your chance to eliminate them. Actually, it is not the gods who burn the pots, but it is possible to caulk a log house more or less efficiently even if you have no experience.

Even if all stages of construction wooden structure done professionally, this does not guarantee that there will be no drafts in the house. Firstly, the used workpieces (beams, logs), characterized by a large length, cannot be adjusted to one another with pinpoint precision. Secondly, wood is constantly in the process of deformation (under the influence of moisture, temperature, and also due to natural shrinkage).

Even inter-crown insulation cannot eliminate the problem of emerging cracks and gaps; only caulking, as a way of additional thermal insulation of the log house. It is quite doable with your own hands if you know how to do it and what you may need during the work.

Caulking is not a one-time event. For the first time, it is carried out either immediately after the completion of construction, or in parallel with the construction of the log house. Secondary - the next year or after 2 - 3, depending on local specifics (climate in the region; location of the building on the territory; its protection from the winds; grade of wood used, which determines the intensity of its shrinkage and a number of other factors). The third time - after the final removal of moisture from the material. As a rule, 5 years are allotted for this. But this does not exclude the need for unplanned caulking, as cracks form in certain areas.

Any material that can be used to seal the gap is not suitable for these purposes. Its choice is determined by the following criteria:

• optimal combination of elasticity and density;
• low thermal conductivity;
• non-susceptibility to destruction by microorganisms;
• hygroscopicity, approximately identical to this indicator of wood. That is, the caulking material must be characterized by the ability to equally absorb moisture and release it;
• "ecological cleanliness";
• resistance to external negative factors. That is, the caulk should not be deformed, much less destroyed under the influence of the atmosphere (changes in humidity, temperature, and their limit values).

When insulating a log house, you must adhere to a certain scheme. Caulking is done in levels along the perimeter of the building. It starts from the bottom crown, and only after high-quality sealing of the 1st row spacing should you begin to process the 2nd. Failure to follow this recommendation leads to the fact that under certain conditions there is a risk of the log frame warping.

The specifics of caulking of timber and log buildings are somewhat different. The picture explains this well.

Caulking is always carried out before any work on finishing (cladding) the building begins. When insulating, the material is forced into the gaps with force, which leads to the “lifting” of the entire frame. In total terms for one-story house- approximately 10 cm.

Cannot be used when caulking different materials. The reason is differences in hygroscopicity, which determines the degree of deformation when absorbing liquid. It is also not recommended to caulk only on one or two sides. Failure to comply with these requirements leads to distortion of the structure.

If this happens, it is not critical. You can correct the distortion with additional caulk. The main thing is to correctly determine the area where secondary installation of insulation will eliminate this defect.

There are quite a lot of them. You don’t need to be an expert in the field of construction to understand that natural materials are the best.

Moss

It practically has only advantages. You don’t have to purchase it, but assemble and prepare it yourself, although this option is not available to everyone. “Ecological cleanliness” is a priori beyond doubt. Another significant advantage is that moss has antibacterial properties. Consequently, in places where cracks are sealed, it provides high-quality protection of lumber from fungi and mold. Experts note only one drawback - high cost purchased moss.

Tow

It’s the opposite – the cost is low, but it’s difficult to work with this material, and it’s not particularly durable. Firstly, tow is fibrous in structure, and therefore absorbs moisture very actively. And she gradually moves onto the tree. This, in turn, complicates the removal of rotted insulation from the gaps, especially if the compaction was done to a great depth (which is typical for log cabins). Another disadvantage is that moths are very fond of tow, which gradually spreads throughout the house. And the quality of thermal insulation quickly decreases when the layer is damaged.

Lnovatin

Enough the new kind insulation. It is a tape obtained by pressing crushed flax. The material is good (heat-saving indicators are high, does not absorb moisture and is not subject to rotting), but is only suitable for sealing large cracks.

Jute

The main characteristics are identical to flax wool. The advantage is the variety of assortment. Jute is produced in ribbons or cords, so this material can be considered universal. High price- This is the only drawback of the product.

Sealing compounds

Categorized into three groups, but general characteristics- ease of insulation of the log house. The use of these heat insulators does not require professional skills; In addition, the time savings are quite noticeable.

Paste in tubes. It is easy to match the color of the wood, so when filling small gaps it is the best option caulking. If necessary, this place is varnished.

Briquettes. Their use requires a special gun. Convenience in the variety of attachments, which allows you to process cracks both large and relatively small.

Cords, harnesses made of polyethylene foam. They are pressed into the gap using special devices. It is advisable to use for sealing long gaps.

Tools

Since caulking is carried out in various areas that differ in the parameters of the cracks, and therefore in the complexity of the operations, it is advisable to use a set of devices for such work. It will not be possible to insulate a log house with just one. The tool will not be needed only if soft (paste-like) sealants are used.

A correctly selected tool will not only optimize work in various areas, but also expand (if necessary) the gap and insulate a log site with complex geometry. Therefore, you should not limit yourself to only the devices shown in the figures.

Basic caulking technologies

Stretch

Usually, this method implemented in areas characterized by a large extent. Accordingly, the material is selected - cords, tapes, harnesses. The meaning of the operation is to uniformly push the insulation into the gap with a gradual displacement work surface tool sideways. The peculiarity is that it does not most of material remained outside the frame. At the last stage, the excess is tucked in (that is, a kind of roller is formed) and forcefully driven into the gap. This ensures its complete sealing.

Included in the set

This technology is suitable for large gaps, since in this case a narrow tape (cord) cannot provide high-quality insulation. Or in difficult areas, when the width of the gap changes many times. The material is disassembled into individual strands; they are twisted (into balls, loops) and driven into the gap. The work is more painstaking, requiring time and accuracy.

Sometimes the edges of the inter-crown insulation protrude somewhat from the frame. Experienced craftsmen This is exactly what is done during the installation of the structure, taking into account its subsequent shrinkage. In this case, all that remains is to tuck in the excess and push it into the gap.

In principle, there is nothing complicated about caulking a log house. You just need to correctly assess the specifics of the work, the parameters of the cracks and choose the right material and the best way thermal insulation.

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IN modern world the meaning of the expression - my home is my fortress - takes on slightly different shades and is not limited only to the strength of the walls and the reliability of the castle. Increasingly, in order to increase productivity and reduce the cost of materials, manufacturers are resorting to dubious schemes, adding various fillers to their construction products, which, when decomposed, release harmful substances.

This factor, together with the unfavorable environmental situation of the current world, makes a negative contribution and can pose a real danger to human health.

To protect yourself and your loved ones, as well as to eliminate the possibility of harmful effects, you need to use proven and reliable materials that will help in the construction of your home and various outbuildings. Wood is not only an environmentally friendly product of nature, but its use will contribute to the long-term presence of any building on the list of fashionable and modern objects. The reason for this factor is that, despite centuries of experience in using wood, this material is a classic, and has long deserved its place of honor, which cannot be influenced by anyone. alternative opinions, nor fashion trends.

In addition to the environmental and external components, one of the main advantages of wood is its thermal conductivity. Houses made from this material are distinguished by the warmth of their rooms and internal comfort. But in order to achieve such indicators, it is necessary to carry out a certain type of work, especially this must be done when the construction of a log house is carried out using logs, since cracks and various holes are a constant companion of such walls.

Despite the fact that most experts try to eliminate this issue during the construction of a log house, it still remains relevant for a long time. The reason for this phenomenon is the fact that the insulating layer laid between the wooden elements loses its properties and original advantages during the shrinkage of the house. For this reason, it is necessary to additionally caulk the entire building. It is better to carry out this process in 3 stages, which fit within the following time frame:
immediately after construction;
1-2 years after its completion;
4-6 years after the construction of the house.

The need for repeated actions lies in the tendency of wood to change its physical parameters under the influence of external influences. Wood can change its configuration not only due to pressure during the shrinkage process, but also due to changes in moisture levels, leading to the formation of cracks.

Among the many materials that can be used in these matters, the most frequently used and with a sufficient number of advantages is tow. So the question is: How to properly caulk a log house with tow? – quite often found among people who dream of their own home made of wood.

To successfully resolve this issue and do everything efficiently and reliably, you need to take into account several rules leading to achieving the desired result.
You need to caulk along the entire perimeter, starting from the lower levels. Intensifying the process in one direction can lead to displacement of the frame and aggravate the situation.
It is best to caulk before final finishing buildings because this process may raise it a little general level. This technique will allow for more rational use finishing material, and will eliminate the danger of having to redo such work.
After insulating the outer perimeter of the building, it is imperative to switch to inner side, which will strengthen the overall positive picture.

These points, in most cases, are the main guarantee of a high-quality result and solution to the question: How to properly caulk a log house with tow.

Besides general rules It is worth familiarizing yourself with the technology of insulation using tow. You can caulk with this material in 2 ways - in a stretch and in a set.

In the first case, a strand is made from tow, which is applied to the problem area. The strand is driven into the slot using a special tool called a caulking tool. The caulking chisel, as this product may also be called, really has the shape of a chisel with hallmark in the form of a wide and flat ending. The tow should be packed as tightly and deeply as possible, without the possibility of self-extraction. The edges of the insulation should protrude from the wall at a distance of 5-6 cm, as they will serve link for the next formation, the edges of which will need to be intertwined and driven into the gap.

Insulation in a set is used in cases where the dimensions of the cracks are large enough, and the use of strands does not lead to positive result, as a result of which it is inappropriate. In this case, the tow is divided into separate strands, from which a roller is subsequently formed. This roller is driven into the gap, and this process must begin from the upper part, and bottom part send it into the depths of the crack last. Thanks to this technique, a seal of tow will be formed on the surface of the tree, which will be difficult to remove and also to influence mechanically.

One of the main measures for insulating a bathhouse from a log house is caulking (caulking). Caulking involves filling the gaps between the crowns of a log house with environmentally friendly insulating materials. In this article we talk about how to caulk a log house yourself and what materials and tools are required for this.

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Purpose of log caulk

After all the crowns of the bathhouse from the log house have been laid, inserted and the roof is covered, it is necessary to proceed to the process. Log houses have been insulated since ancient times, and this process has remained virtually unchanged until today. The only thing that has changed is the materials and tools for caulking (we'll talk about them a little later).

It is necessary to caulk a log house for the following reasons:

• A well-insulated one will require less time to warm up the steam room and other rooms
• The log house tends to dry out, as a result of which gaps form in the bath structure that will need to be filled
• If heat escapes from the bathhouse, condensation will form outside the log house, which will lead to rotting of the log house.
• Heating a well-insulated bath will require less fuel (coal, gas, wood or even electricity)

As you can see, caulking a log house is a very serious and at the same time useful undertaking.

When is it necessary to caulk a log house?

As we know, it takes at least one year for a log building to shrink. Based on this, there is a lot of disagreement about the time to caulk a log house.

The first caulking of the log house must be carried out immediately after laying all the crowns and covering the roof.

The second caulking of the log house is carried out after the bathhouse has partially settled (in about a year). Despite the fact that during the first caulking all the gaps will be tightly clogged, after a year there will be room for another insulation of the bathhouse in the inter-crown cracks.

Well, the last caulking of the log house should be carried out at the moment when the bathhouse is completely seated, no later than in 5 years.

We draw your attention to the fact that caulking of a log house with your own hands must be done both from the outside of the bathhouse and from the inside. Another important point: during high-quality caulking, the bathhouse can rise by about 7-10 cm, so it is better not to fix it with the roof, so that it does not become deformed during this time.

Materials for caulking a log house

Today, to caulk a log house with your own hands, you can use moss, tow, special sealant, jute and flax wool. Let's briefly consider the advantages of each material.

Moss

Previously, the log house was caulked with moss. This material for caulking is still used by some builders, but most specialists prefer more modern materials.

The advantages of moss are that it is a 100% environmentally friendly material that has antimicrobial properties and is highly durable.

The disadvantage of caulking a log house with moss is the high cost of this insulation.

Moss for caulking should not be too dry, but at the same time it should not be too wet.

Tow is also often used for caulking log houses, but this material is not recommended. Firstly, caulking a log house with tow is a very labor-intensive process. Secondly, tow absorbs moisture, so after a few seasons it can begin to rot, thereby damaging the crowns of the log house. Thirdly, it is very difficult to pick out rotten tow from the inter-crown cracks, especially since re-caulking is not a very pleasant process. And fourthly, tow is a delicacy for moths.

Jute is environmentally friendly pure material plant origin. It is often used for caulking a log house with your own hands, because... this material has the following advantages:

• The material has high strength
• Jute practically does not absorb water, which means it does not rot.
• Jute has good thermal insulation properties

We draw your attention to the fact that construction stores often offer an analogue instead of jute - jute felt. We do not recommend using jute felt for caulking a log house, because... this material has a proportion of flax, and this significantly reduces the strength and increases the hygroscopic properties of the material.

Caulking of a log house with jute is carried out during the construction of a log structure. The material is placed on top of the crowns and secured with a construction stapler.

Flax batting is also used for caulking log houses. This material consists of compacted flax dust, which is made in long strips. Linen wool, like jute, has high strength and heat-insulating properties.

Sealant

Special sealants for caulking log houses are also actively gaining popularity. They are most often used together with jute. Exist different kinds sealants depending on the width of the cracks. We draw your attention to the fact that it is advisable to use the sealant together with jute or linen, this will make the thermal insulation of the bathhouse more effective.

Today, the following set of tools is used to caulk a log house with your own hands:

• Stacked caulking
• Crooked caulk (requires skill to operate, but is more effective)
• Road worker (used together with caulk)
• Breaking caulking (narrower, in some places it is more convenient to work with it)
• Mallet (used for hammering caulk into cracks)

It is recommended to use soft caulking (for example, made of wood), because... they will not damage the surface of the log house. The only problem is that soft caulking is more difficult to use, but with a few insulations you will definitely adapt to this tool.

Do-it-yourself log caulking technology

The technology for caulking with your own hands is quite complicated, although you can’t tell from the outside. As we said earlier, when caulking a log house, the structure becomes 7-10 cm higher, so you need to caulk it evenly and correctly.

You should know that no finishing activities should be carried out before caulking the log house, because... during lifting of the structure they will be immediately damaged.

Proper caulking of a log house involves insulating the inter-crown space in tiers (from lower to upper). First, we caulk the very bottom joint (between the first and second crown). This must be done along the perimeter, starting from one corner and ending with it. As soon as the tier is insulated, you need to move to the overlying crown.

We draw your attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to carry out isolated caulking (for example, only one wall), because The log structure may become noticeably warped.

It should be noted that experienced builders can straighten a skewed frame using only caulking.

When caulking a log house, it is necessary to carefully hammer in the insulation at the corners, because These nodes need this the most (due to the presence of locks and complex grooves).

There are two ways to caulk a log house with your own hands: “stretch” and “set”. The first method is used if the gaps between the rims are small, respectively, the second is intended for wide gaps. Let's take a closer look at each of the methods.

To caulk a log house "expanded" you will need a strand of insulating material for the length of the entire crack. First, you need to tamp one side of the strand into the gap, then bend the other side (as shown in the picture) and carefully hammer it in with a breaking or type-setting caulk.

This method of caulking a log house with your own hands requires much more insulation material, but it insulates a log bathhouse better. The caulking technology proceeds differently: a strand with a thickness of at least 15 mm is prepared. Next, you need to gather the strands into the loops and hammer each loop into the gap one by one (so that the strand goes across the gap, as shown in the picture). It is necessary to hammer the strand using a breaking caulk, tamping the material from above and then from below. After the strand is completely hammered into the cracks, it is recommended to make a final compaction using a road builder.