Whitewashing trees, how to whitewash trees, when to whitewash trees, how to whitewash trees correctly, useful tips. Whitewash trees - how, when and why (Whitewashing trees in spring and autumn video) When to whitewash the trunks of fruit trees in the fall

Autumn season In the garden they finish by whitewashing the trees. It would seem that there is nothing simpler than this work, however, it raises many questions among gardeners, especially beginners. Which we asked the candidate to answer biological sciences Raisa Matveev.

When to start autumn whitewashing? And what's the deadline?

The optimal period is from mid-October to mid-November, in dry, clear weather.

Does whitewash heal wood?

If the trunk of an adult fruit tree is “dressed” with coarsened bark with formed folds, cracks, and roughness, garden pests can hibernate in them. In this case, whitewashing is not

only protects the bark from sunburn, and at the same time disinfects and protects the plant from wintering pests, fungal diseases, and also fights mosses and lichens.

Is it necessary to remove old bark from a tree before whitewashing?

The trunk and main skeletal branches of the tree are conductors nutrients. They should thicken evenly and match each other. Their uniform thickening depends on the condition of the cortex. Diseased, rough bark compresses the conductive vessels and thereby prevents the supply of nutrients from the leaves to the roots and vice versa. In addition, dead bark again becomes a refuge for pests. Therefore, it and the mosses and lichens that settle on it must be removed from the tree annually using metal scrapers and wire brushes on an oilcloth previously laid under the plant. After this, all cleaning is burned, and the trunk and base of the crown are whitened.

What if the barrel is damaged? Whitewash the wound?

First, you need to heal the damage - strip it down to living tissue, disinfect it, apply garden varnish, and only then whitewash it.

Do young trees need to be whitewashed?

Undesirable: the solution clogs the pores of the bark and slows down gas exchange. For the entire standard of young people fruit trees, starting with newly planted ones and ending with 6-8 year olds (i.e. until the plant forms a coarsened bark), for protection, including from mice and hares, overlap spruce branches (or roofing felt, roofing material), tie them tightly twine.

Is it necessary to re-whiten trees in the spring?

In the second half of February, the amplitude of daily fluctuations in cambium temperature in trees can reach 30-40 degrees. Solar heating the trunk can provoke the beginning of vegetation of the bark, and night cold can cause its death. During this period, solar thermal burns may occur. To prevent damage to the bark, in the second half of February it is necessary to restore the whitewashing of the trunks and branches. This is done at a temperature not lower than -5 degrees.

4. Is it possible to whitewash wood completely? When whitewashing Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the places where skeletal branches depart from the trunk, where pests usually overwinter and foci of fungal diseases are located. But if possible, I recommend treating the entire tree with lime mortar.

How much whitewash is needed per tree?

It all depends on the care of the gardener when applying whitewash and the age of the tree. For one mature tree You may need 1 kg.

What is the composition according tosquirrelsbetter?

For autumn whitewashing, as well as for February or March, a solution is prepared in the following way: 2-2.2 kg of freshly slaked lime is diluted in 10 liters of water and 0.4-0.5 kg is added copper sulfate, previously dissolved in water. For better adhesion, add 1-2 tbsp to the lime mortar. milk.

FIRST – DISINFECTION

Before whitewashing, as a preventive measure against diseases, I treat the trees in the garden with an ash-soap infusion: 2-3 kg of ash and 50 g laundry soap I dilute it in 10 liters of hot (not boiling!) water. I dip a rag in this warm infusion and wash the trunk and branches with it. This results in disinfection and fertilization at the same time.

Vladimir BUBNOVICH, Novogrudsk

LIKE SOUR CREAM

The husband whitens trees in dry, clear weather with a solution: 2-2.5 kg of slaked lime, 250-300 g of copper sulfate, 1 kg of fatty clay, 1-2 shovels cow dung dilutes first in a bucket with a small amount water, and then gradually increases the volume to 10 liters. Mixes everything well. The whitewash should have the consistency of thick sour cream. If it drips when applied to the trunk, you should gradually add lime and clay, bringing the solution to the desired thickness.

Vera LIPAI, Minsk region.

NEITHER THE RAIN OR THE HARE IS AFRAID

The composition of my whitewash: for 10 liters of water - 2.5 kg of slaked lime, 1 kg of clay and 0.5 kg of copper sulfate. And so that the whitewash is not washed off by rain, I add stationery or wood glue to its composition (10% of the volume). Throwing in another handful of dried hellebore powder will help repel hares.

Alexander NIKONOV, Nizhnekamsk

To protect the garden from hares and mice, I add 1 tbsp to a bucket of whitewash. carbolic acid.

Vasily BARKOVETS, Borisov

in spring sunny days becomes more and more, nature is preparing to awaken, and we, summer residents, are looking forward to the beginning gardening work. Already in February the sun begins to shine brighter and warmer fruit trees in the garden. The trunks, whitened in autumn, are reliably protected from burns with garden lime or paint. It is recommended to thoroughly whiten trees in the fall. And if for some reason this could not be done, or the lime was washed away, whitewashing on trees in spring needs refreshing.

Why do trees need whitewashing?

So, the sun's rays and the light reflected from the snow can make it really hot even in February dark trunks trees. As a result, the cambium in the bark heats up and sap flow begins. And in the evening it becomes cold and frosty again. The moisture in the bark tissues freezes and a rupture occurs - frost holes. And they, in turn, are a direct gateway for infections.

The white color reflects the rays, saving trees from overheating, burns and frost damage. And if you add disinfectants to the solution, it will also protect against diseases and pests.

Timing of work

In the fall, trees need to be whitened before severe frosts: at the end of October - beginning of November (this is the main whitewashing).

In the spring, whitewashing is carried out again: you can already start in February, but it is also possible to do it later - in March or early April. And if the autumn whitewashing did not take place, then the trees should definitely be whitewashed in February, when there is no severe frost (at least minus 2-3 degrees during the day).

Favorable days for whitewashing fruit trees in spring 2018:

• March 3 (until 11:22), March 13 and 14, March 25 (from 14:46), March 26;
• April 9 (from 10:51), April 10 and 11 (until 22:41).

Unfavorable days for working with plants:

• March 2, March 17 (until 21:58), March 31;
• April 16 (from 12:52), April 30.

How can you whiten trees in spring? Composition of solutions

The composition of solutions for whitewashing trees, as a rule, includes three main components:

• White coloring matter - lime, chalk,
• Adhesive - PVA, clay, milk, laundry soap,
• Useful substances – copper or inkstone, manure, droppings.

The listed components are most often included in recipes for preparing solutions for whitewashing trees. You can use any recipe, or buy ready-made garden whitewash (which is prepared using the “just add water” principle), special paint or spray whitewash. It is necessary to whiten not only the trunk, but also the forks and bases of large branches.

Many gardeners have already managed to evaluate in practice this alternative to traditional whitewashing - elastic garden bandages that are used to wrap tree trunks. Such bandages “breathe” perfectly, allow moisture to pass through and protect from the sun.

It is generally not recommended to whitewash young trees, and here another new product comes to the rescue - garden non-woven fabric. Spandbond, familiar to modern summer residents, can also protect the trunks of fruit trees from the sun and frost damage (also very important for young plantings).

Recipes for solutions with lime

• Lime solution with vitriol: dissolve 2 kg of freshly slaked lime in 10 liters of water, add 500 g of copper sulfate;
• Lime solution with clay: 2 kg of lime and 1 kg of clay per 10 liters of water;
• Lime solution with mullein: 2 kg of lime and 1 kg of mullein per 10 liters of water;
• Solution with glue: 500 g of copper sulfate, 3 kg of quicklime and 200 g of casein glue per 10 liters of water;
• Slaked lime solution: pour 1 kg of slaked lime (purchased at a garden store) with 1-2 liters of water;
• Lime solution with clay: take 3 kg of freshly slaked lime per 10 liters of water and add 2-3 kg of clay to give the solution viscosity. The mixture is mixed well and brought to a creamy consistency.

The disadvantages of using lime-based solutions are that such whitewash is washed off quite quickly. But lime is environmentally friendly and inexpensive. And for additional protection To protect trees from pests and diseases, you should definitely add copper sulfate to the solution.

Whitewashing with paint

Should I use whitewash paint? garden trees? Here the opinions of gardeners differ: some believe that the paint clogs the bark too much and does not allow it to “breathe”, others see the advantage that the paint does not wash off for a long time, and does not harm the tree. In practice, gardeners quite successfully use the following to whitewash trees:

• Water-based paint,
• Water-dispersion paint VD-KCH-577,
• Special latex paint,
• Acrylic garden paints.

Traditional water-based emulsion will protect tree trunks from burns and frost damage, but special garden paint (acrylic or latex) also contains additives to protect against pests (for example, “Luck” garden paint). The paint adheres well to the bark and lasts longer. But, whatever one may say, it’s chemicals, and the price is higher.

Personal experience

In the fall, we always spontaneously close the dacha season and therefore do not have time to whitewash the trees on the site. In the spring we arrive late - at the beginning of May, but we immediately try to carry out whitewashing. To do this, we use purchased garden whitewash, which is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio. It's fast and convenient. This is what our trees look like before whitewashing in May:

As you can see in the photo, there is still damage to the bark - apparently, the effect of last year's spring whitewashing is not enough for the apple trees. Nevertheless, they bear fruit regularly and do not get sick. The dacha is located far away, and it is not at all possible to open the dacha season earlier. But if you have such an opportunity, it is better to whiten the trees on time (both in autumn and spring) than to later observe ugly frost marks on the bark of apple trees.

The household are digging ridges, and I I'm starting to whitewash:

Ready-made “Garden Whitewash” (we usually need 9-10 kg for the entire garden) I dilute it in warm water and add a little copper sulfate and green soap:

Effect:

Health to you and your garden! 😉

Ornamental plants in gardens are susceptible to harmful effects from various insects and diseases. Gardeners and summer residents use various ways protection from pests. One of the methods is whitewashing trees in the fall; the composition of the components may be different. Let's take a closer look at how to perform such actions in practice.

Over time, cracks appear in the bark of trees. This secluded place is chosen by various insects for wintering. It could be aphids, mites, bark beetles. By carrying out autumn whitewashing, we deprive these pests of their winter quarters.

The second reason for this procedure is to protect the tree bark from sunburn. Trees can get burned at any time of the year. But in winter, when the trunks are not protected by deciduous crowns, this is especially true. Frequent thaws also contribute to this. Fruit trees especially suffer from burns.

It is especially necessary to whiten young trees. Their delicate bark can crack from sun and frost. Hares and mice will also not miss such a delicacy.

Time frame for autumn whitewashing

The timing of whitewashing trees depends on the ambient temperature. They begin to whiten in October or November. This should be done before the onset of frost. The signal to begin work will be the end of leaf fall. Late dry and sunny autumn – good time. The rains will not wash away the coating; it will slowly dry out.

Equipment for whitewashing trees

For this purpose, you can use the simplest equipment - a bucket and a brush. A suitable solution is diluted in a bucket, and a brush is needed to apply it. Choose a soft brush to penetrate into the narrowest and hard to reach places. It is better to take a flat brush with artificial bristles. To ensure economical use of whitewash, its width is chosen to be no greater than the thickness of the wood.

In order to quickly whitewash trees and reach the highest points without any problems, use a spray gun. Convenience in this case will turn out to be unnecessary expense liquids. But if you have a large garden, this decision will be correct.

Preparing a tree trunk for whitewashing

Before you start whitening, you should carefully prepare the trunk for this procedure. Everything is removed from its surface necessary education– mosses, lichens, loose bark. All this is cleaned off onto the underlying film or other bedding.

These actions are best performed in wet weather. At this time, the swollen damaged bark and other formations are easily scraped off with a wooden scraper. Acute metal objects It is not suitable for such work, as it can damage the living bark.

All cleaned debris should be burned immediately to avoid contamination of healthy plants.

Cracks formed in the bark are sealed with garden pitch.

If this is not available, use putty:

• Clay – 2 parts.
• Manure – 1 part.
• Copper sulfate – 1 g.

Further actions are disinfection of the surface of the barrel. You can use this solution - 1 kg table salt, 2 kg wood ash, 2 pieces of laundry soap. All ingredients are dissolved in a bucket warm water. They wash the trunk with it, preventing salt water from penetrating into the soil.

A good effect is shown by the use of a 5% solution of copper sulfate, preparations XOM, Oxy-hom, Bordeaux mixture. These solutions are sprayed from a fine spray bottle, creating a beneficial mist around the trunk.

Preparations containing copper should not be used annually. This mineral tends to accumulate in tissues, which leads to weakness and disease of the plant.

Instead of fungicides, a composition of soap and ash is used.

The following proportions are used for it:

• 3 kg of ash.
• 50 g crushed laundry soap.

The ingredients are dissolved in 10 liters hot water. When it cools down, they wash the tree bark with it. Once in the soil, this mixture will serve as a fertilizer.

Composition of the solution for different types of trees

The most common compositions for whitewashing trees include lime and copper sulfate.

Chalk or lime must be contained in such compositions. They provide whiteness to the whitewash.

Copper or iron sulfate has disinfectant properties. There must be glue present.

The simplest whitewash recipe for fruit trees:

1. Slaked lime – 2 kg.
2. Copper sulfate – 400 g.
3. Casein glue – 100 g.
4. Water – 10 l.

The presence of glue allows the composition not to be washed off from the surface for a long time.

Currently there is no need to prepare such mixtures. There are special paints for whitewashing. Water-based paint is not dangerous and does not wash off for a long time. It protects trunks from sunburn and does not cause rotting or diaper rash of the bark.

Water-dispersed paint contains an antiseptic component, sun-protection pigments, and remains on the trunk for a long time.

You can prepare a simple, reliable composition from PVA glue with the addition of a dye - chalk or kaolin. By adding water, we get high-quality whitewash.

How to whitewash trees correctly

This work should be taken with responsibility. Work slowly, painting each piece of bark, soaking it with the solution. Whitewashing begins from the bottom, gradually rising along the trunk to the top.

Try not to leave large drops of whitewash. When they dry out, they will simply fall off. It is necessary to whitewash the entire trunk and skeletal branches to a height of 30 cm. Do not make the whitewash solution very thick, a thick layer will crumble and the work will have to be repeated.

When starting to whiten young trees, concentrate lime mortar twice as weak. Water-based emulsion and water-dispersed compositions are not dangerous for them.

Whitewashing of fruit trees must also be done in the spring. This will reduce the number of pests and diseases in these crops.

By caring for the trees in your garden, you make it beautiful and healthy. Green spaces are the lungs of nature and need to be protected. Neatly whitened trunks show that they are cared for.

26.12.2017 6 399

How to whiten trees in spring and how to do it correctly?

Forum members have different views on whitewashing trees: some argue that this work should be done in the fall, others in the spring, and still others even believe that this is a harmful activity that prevents the trees from breathing. Which one is right?

Once upon a time it was a traditional April cleanup event. Perhaps that is why for some summer residents gardening work It is with these works that they begin: elegant trees seem to announce the end of winter. However, there is another opinion, according to which the solution prevents plants from developing naturally after the winter awakening, and therefore spring whitewashing is carried out more for beauty than for benefit.

And yet... We should not forget that treating the bark with special solutions is not only done to protect plants from sunburn, as supporters of autumn whitewashing of trees claim. The solution protects the bark of trees from a number of external stress factors: sun, frost and waking garden pests. Therefore, whitewashing can be carried out twice a year for preventive or therapeutic purposes.

In the latter case, the composition of the solution is slightly changed by adding components for treating wounds and cracks that appear on the tree bark. To ensure that whitewashing is not a useless exercise, you need to not just “transform” garden trees, but do it according to the rules.

How to whiten?

It is important to determine the timing of such work. Usually they are carried out in February-March, less often in April, while the earth has not yet warmed up enough for the bark beetles to wake up: unprotected plants will become a good shelter for them at the beginning of the new season.

The whitewashing process can be divided into three stages. First, carefully inspect the tree trunk, clean it of old bark (mature trees only!), mosses and lichens with a special scraper or wire brush. If cracks are found on the tree, they are treated with garden varnish or putty.

It is better to clean the trunk after heavy rains: wet bark peels off more easily than dry bark.

The second stage is preparing the whitewash solution. Traditionally used slaked lime(they cover the trunk with it twice), although now many have already appeared ready-made compositions based on chalk with the addition of copper sulfate and a fixing adhesive composition.

And finally, the last stage is the whitewashing itself, for which a brush or spray bottles are used. The tree trunk, skeletal branches and forks are treated; sometimes gardeners also paint some types of shrubs.

What to whiten?

You can prepare a simple whitewash solution yourself. To do this you will need 2.5 kg of lime and half a liter of copper sulfate. Dilute the components in a bucket of water, and then add 200 g of wood glue, silicate glue, PVA or laundry soap. The composition should not be too liquid, but not too thick.

Ordinary whitewash has significant drawback– it is quickly washed away by rains. Forum members suggest trying other options:

• water-dispersed acrylic paint for garden trees - spread with a brush without adding water; the composition is also washed off, but less than regular whitewash;
• whitewash with the addition of clay (2:1) – has medicinal properties and does not transmit heat well, as a result of which the tree better tolerates sudden temperature changes;
• a solution of freshly slaked lime prepared with skim milk (holds better).

What not to do:

• whitewash young trees with smooth bark - the pores become clogged, gas exchange slows down, as a result of which the plant grows poorly and the trunk slowly thickens;
• whiten at sub-zero temperature and in rainy weather; whitewashing when it rains is a waste of time;
• There is no need to whitewash entire trees - the plant stops breathing. In addition, the solution kills larvae along with pests. ladybug– garden protectors from aphids;
• You don’t have to treat trees in the spring if the autumn whitewash is well preserved.

Based on materials from participants of the forum "House and Dacha"