How to quickly paint the ceiling with water-based paint. We paint the ceiling with water-based paint manually and with an airbrush

Looking for a spectacular yet inexpensive way to transform your interior? An excellent option is plaster molding. The advantages of such a decor are obvious: firstly, it does not require serious financial costs, secondly, it is easy to do it yourself, and thirdly, your home will acquire a true individuality with it. In addition, gypsum elements can have almost any shape - make sure of this by evaluating photos of such decorations in the interior. Do you want to “settle” such decor in your home? If the answer is yes, to your attention are detailed instructions and a video for making stucco at home.

Preparatory procedures

Before you start creating stucco, you need to stock up on working materials and tools, prepare a sketch of the future decor and make a mold for it.

You will need:

• spatulas and knives of various sizes;
• building plaster;
• art or construction clay;
• tassel;

• silicone-based putty;
• silicone oil;
• release agent;
• dye;
• colorless varnish.

If this is your first time doing stucco work, it is advisable to create a sketch of the future decor. Think over the design and dimensions of the product, draw a drawing on paper, and then sculpt a prototype model of jewelry from clay or plasticine.

Advice. If you are not sure that you will get a beautiful model, you can simply buy polyurethane molding prototypes - they are in all hardware stores.

• from the inside, treat the prototype model with a release agent;
• mix silicone-based putty and silicone oil;
• apply the resulting mixture to the model with a brush - the thickness of the coating should be at least 4-5 mm; the maximum size will depend on the complexity of the intended decor.

It is important to apply the silicone mixture with smooth strokes so that no air bubbles remain under it - in the future they will provoke the appearance of unaesthetic recesses that will spoil the look of the stucco molding.
When the composition dries, separate the model from the finished mold.

In fairness, it should be noted that the mold is also not necessary to do it yourself - if you want to play it safe, you can buy it in a needlework store.

Stucco making

Now proceed to the preparation of the plaster: in small portions, mix 10 parts of dry material with 7 parts of water, and then mix them thoroughly. To give the composition plasticity, add a little PVA glue - thanks to it, the risk of cracking the decor will decrease. Stir the mixture until the consistency resembles sour cream. The following is the direct process of creating stucco:

• Treat the mold with a release agent so that the plaster does not adhere to the silicone.
• Apply the first layer of plaster with a brush.

• Pour the mortar into the mould, spreading it continuously with vibrating movements to avoid air bubbles - moisture often accumulates in them, which destroys the stucco. It is necessary to fill in to the very brim - the excess mixture can be removed with a knife or spatula.

Important! Keep in mind that the gypsum mixture already after 3 minutes after kneading loses its fluidity, and after 8-10 - plasticity, so you need to pour the composition into the molds very quickly.

• Carefully level the surface of the mixture with a wide spatula.
• Approximately 20 minutes after pouring, carefully remove the plaster element from the mold. For final drying, set aside the stucco molding for a day.

Finishing and installation

When the product begins to turn white, proceed to the finishing touch-up. At this stage, you need to correct all the shortcomings and give the stucco molding a complete look. First of all, if there are irregularities, treat them with fine sandpaper. Then completely prime the back of the product.

As a result of your work, you will get a white stucco molding with an elegant slightly marble relief, but this does not have to be its final appearance - the product can be painted in any color. To do this, use water-based wall paint. If the composition is too thick, additionally dilute it with water. Apply the paint with a small brush with a soft long bristle - this way you can cover all the embossed surfaces. After the stucco has dried, treat it with clear varnish to protect the paint layer.

Now it remains to install the decor. This can be done only 3 days after pouring. Before installation, you need to prepare the work surface that will be directly decorated: clean it thoroughly and slightly moisten it with water. Then prepare an adhesive solution for fixing the stucco: mix 40% PVA glue and 60% water. First, apply the composition to the work surface, and then to the back of the stucco molding. Then, with light rubbing movements, fix the product on the surface. Residual glue must be removed quickly so that it does not dry out. If ugly joints or holes remain after installation, putty them with plaster.

Gypsum stucco is not only an excellent tool for interior decoration, but also an interesting way of creative self-expression. So, if you want to simultaneously make your home unique and show plenty of imagination, while not emptying your wallet too much, feel free to take on the manufacture of such a decor.

How to make stucco with your own hands: video

Stucco molding from plaster in the interior: photo

Tastefully selected architectural decor can transform the interior of the room, give it sophistication and turn an ordinary living space into an expensive apartment. With the help of stucco on the walls, the room will be filled with unique shades of emotions - from classical austerity and purity to regal splendor. When choosing such decorative elements for decorating your apartment, you should be guided by your taste and the requirements that the chosen interior style imposes in this regard. Fragments of ornaments and stucco in any case should be appropriate.

History of stucco

For the first time in our country, they learned about stucco molding at the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries. This decor quickly gained unprecedented popularity among architects, because, due to the material used, it differed for the better from the usual gilded carvings of that time in the smoothness of forms, a special matte light and an amazing play of chiaroscuro. The stucco molding looked great on the walls in pastel colors - pale blue, light green, pink. Quite quickly, ceilings and windows, fireplaces and arches began to be decorated with stucco decoration.

At first, stucco was made from expensive soft stone through traditional woodcarving. But soon they were replaced by cheaper materials - alabaster and gypsum. For the manufacture of such products, a mixture of clay or gypsum with marble chips was used. It is important to note that the stucco was always made by hand, which gave each fragment a special spirit of originality and reflected the talent of the master.

The first use of plaster moldings in interior decoration dates back to the Baroque period. This style was distinguished by the quirkiness of its own curves. And such a decor perfectly softened the straight lines with the roundness of its forms. During the Baroque period, images of angels and cupids, bouquets of flowers, garlands of leaves, fruits and fruits were most often “sculpted”. At the end of the 18th century, the fabulous frenzy and pomp of the Baroque gave way to strict classicism.

Stucco elements in classical style emphasized all horizontals and verticals of the interior. Due to the laconicism and symmetry of classicism ornaments, the relief of stucco decoration was opposed to smooth surfaces and regular geometric shapes. With the beginning of the 19th century, a new Empire style came to Russia, and attention to military topics increased. Laurel wreaths, weapons and torches were most frequently used in decoration. With the advent of Art Nouveau, stucco molding was again filled with curved lines, very simple and concise.

Modern tendencies

Today's fashion combines elements of baroque and modern decor, classicism and modern styles, for example, 3D stucco molding. The need for stucco has not dried up, as before, these decorations are highly valued by lovers of architectural sophistication. When it comes to decorative interior decoration, stucco has almost no competitors. Stucco molding gives the interior decoration of the rooms a special chic, which is comparable to the beauty of ancient theaters.

Stucco molding serves today as a relief decoration of the facades of buildings and interior space. The range is quite diverse: columns, cornices, pilasters, ceiling rosettes, brackets, domes, rosettes and more. Stucco decor is currently the most common type of decor, allowing you to copy the original model many times.

plaster molding

Gypsum has been commonly used for centuries to make stucco. Thanks to the current plasticizing components, the manufactured gypsum stucco molding compares favorably with resistance to mechanical damage and significant strength. The excellent physical properties of gypsum are complemented by aesthetic characteristics. The advantage of gypsum decor lies in the fact that gypsum is a natural material.

Gypsum is resistant to mold, its surface does not serve as a favorable environment for microorganisms to live. But such stucco has several drawbacks, the main of which is heavy weight, which leads to some problems during installation. Sometimes the supporting structures cannot support the weight of the product.

Polyurethane molding

Stucco made of polyurethane competes with gypsum products. Polyurethane is resistant to the harmful effects of water and temperature fluctuations, it is a very light material, which allows you to fix polyurethane moldings on ceilings using adhesive mixtures. Thanks to plasticity, it is possible to produce polyurethane stucco molding of any complexity. And when you want to portray something extremely unusual, you can easily do it.

Because of its natural properties, polyurethane is difficult to melt. Accordingly, polyurethane products can be placed in close proximity to incandescent lamps. That is why Europlast stucco molding has become widespread in the interior of apartments. In addition, polyurethane, unlike gypsum, can be easily painted, significantly expanding the design possibilities.

Stucco making

You already know that stucco decor is the best way to transform a living space. If desired, you can buy stucco. And you can dream up and make a product with your own hands. In order to make a plaster decoration yourself, it is recommended to pay attention to several main stages of the procedure, following which you can make many interesting things for your interior.

Sketch to create jewelry

The stucco manufacturing technology includes the sequential execution of several tasks, and it is worth starting the manufacture of a product from creating a plasticine decoration model. The model is necessary in order to cast a plaster decoration on it in the future. The plasticine model is made somewhat larger than the intended object. Using plasticine allows you to change the shape of a thing an unlimited number of times until you get what you need.

After making the model, you must perform the steps in the following sequence. Dilute the plaster to the consistency of sour cream, after which you need to apply the first layer on the sketch with a brush to thoroughly coat all the recesses. The second and other layers of gypsum are usually applied with a spatula. Leave the whole mass to dry for one hour, then remove the mold from the plasticine model.

If the object is of impressive size, after the first layer of gypsum, lay the reinforcement from the copper mesh. The final step in creating a mold for stucco molding is the coating of the sketch with shellac or furniture colorless varnish on the inside. This must be done so that gypsum does not stick when casting the product.

Product manufacturing

When the sketch for stucco is ready, you can begin the process of manufacturing the product. First of all, prepare the material, that is, dilute the gypsum to a consistency that is similar to the consistency of sour cream. It is necessary to fill in the material as follows: first, pour a small amount of gypsum into the mold and distribute it with a brush into small recesses. When distributing the composition, make sure that no air bubbles form in it.

After spreading the plaster into the recesses, pour the remaining material into the mold in such a way as to fill it with plaster to the very bottom. The surface must be leveled with a spatula until the ideal smoothness is formed, if possible. This is necessary so that during installation the stucco molding on the ceiling lies flat. Gypsum hardens for about a day. A well-dried product rings a little when tapped.

After the material has hardened, the gypsum product is carefully removed from the mold. If necessary, all imperfections can be eliminated with a scalpel. The final work is grinding the stucco with fine sandpaper to eliminate surface flaws.

Installation of stucco products

Installation of stucco molding is carried out simply and quickly. First of all, you need to clean the area where you plan to glue the product from whitewashing and other contaminants. If a cornice was chosen as a decoration, then it is necessary to mark the exact boundaries of its course, and for ceiling rosettes, draw a circle in which the product will be mounted.

After sketching out the sections with a chisel, make notches in the product and on the surface. This is necessary for better adhesion of the adhesive base to the material. Stucco molding is glued onto a gypsum solution, where wood glue is added in a proportion of 3% glue by weight of the solution. Then the prepared surface of the wall or ceiling is wetted with water, the stucco parts are also wetted, and a solution is applied to them with a brush. Having installed the stucco product in place, it should be slightly moved, and the excess mortar should be removed with a spatula.

At the end, the gypsum stucco should be painted. The most commonly used water-soluble emulsion matte paint for ceilings. In order to prevent color differences, it is recommended to paint the stucco together with the ceiling. Gypsum products must be completely dry, they must be cleaned of dust. If the stucco decoration is installed in a room with increased humidity, then the stucco molding is impregnated with water-repellent solutions.

Modern rooms are monotonous: parallel vertical and horizontal planes create a square or rectangular space. You can get away from the ordinary and familiar environment, and the most commonly used and effective of the methods is stucco or stucco panels in the interior, which can successfully emphasize the dignity of the room and visually highlight the most important accents in the room.

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience. The achievements of modern technologies make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an art education, but who are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig. below, quite within the power of a patient and attentive amateur.

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name "acrylic plasters". How to gain the volume of a bas-relief with building putty compounds can be found in the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use the basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and closed with water, i.e. water is added to the mixture, and not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The density of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made in low relief (top left in the figure) or high relief, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called a high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are molded like a round sculpture (see below). A low bas-relief looks good in any light, except for very dim, and a high relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

In residential areas, most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to fashion a bas-relief "Klimt Tree", see for example. video tutorial below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt Tree”

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become acquainted with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand what follows and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: at one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition "Tree of Life". Her style is so peculiar that the expression "Klimt's tree" has become winged.

The reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the upper figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut deep), which is technically much more complicated. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs a bright and sharp oblique light, because. the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, at the bottom right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and smallest protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When changing the direction and angle of incidence of light, the pattern changes, up to a change in facial expression during the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: protrusions and depressions become clogged, and from cleaning they lose their shape. The picture fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in ascending order of technical complexity:

1. Plastering free, i.e. not initially fixed on the supporting surface, non-removable models;
2. Plastering non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because. allow you to get acc. high and low relief, without risking the need to redo all the work again in case of failure;
3. Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more laborious, but also suitable for beginners, because. you can pore over the model as much as you like until it is brought to the ideal. In addition, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast in one mold (mould, mold) made according to the model;
4. Artistic plaster molding in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires solid skills, but it makes it possible to create large relief panels on the entire wall, with a contour of corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief in 2-4 ways both in place and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief is a plasterboard sheet, plasterboard. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or finished compositions are displayed on separate sheets or their pieces of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

The fastener heads and the joints of the fragments are puttied with the base composition, then they are plastered and rubbed under the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece spoiled by inexperience can be redone without touching the rest. And the bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; it is impossible to fasten a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, partitions made of PGB, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the supporting base should be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can not count on the success of work without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once, if you turn it inside out, and the dried residues fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful, the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the start of setting. The kneading ball reduces the wastage of shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from the ball, because. there are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 (pos. 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For the formation of bunches of grapes, scales, etc. still need convex-concave spatulas. Sets with such are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) For a set of 48 items, so lovers often use spoons of different sizes instead of them (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just bring out a low relief with spoons, the bend of the handle interferes. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons of aluminum and other plastic metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, a concave spatula is obtained.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To get concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter at the scoop itself, twisted and bent back when heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use them to clean off old paint from the palette, and sculptors trim the edges, cut off the burr, and create a fine texture. A palette knife is perfectly replaced by a wide shoe knife.

The next necessary tool is a confectionery syringe with nozzles (pos. 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly desirable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (pos. 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are far from being as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, how cakes are decorated, everyone has seen) holding it with 2 hands; hold the tool at the tip with the left.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes of different sizes and the same number of round, cheapest ones, made of ox-ear bristles. It makes no sense to buy expensive squirrel and kolinsky for a bas-relief "steepness for the sake of", they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for drawing. Brushes induce texture (see below) and gypsum small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with the tool and caring for it

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before a set of the next portion of the mixture. Remains and drips on the working body are a guarantee of spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered in parts into water; palette knives with brushes are also placed there. When the tool rots, the remnants of working materials are thoroughly washed off with clean water. By the way, a properly cared for confectionery syringe after working on a bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be kept absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

The creation of a bas-relief on the walls in the apartment (or on sheets of plasterboard, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

• The base surface is cleaned of the old finish, leveled with an accuracy of at least 2 mm / m, primed and covered with a base composition or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL under the prefabricated bas-relief does not require alignment;
• A background texture is applied to the base coat: with a foam or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, shaping and toning is not required;
• In one way or another (from the above and described below), a relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, toning is possible similar to that for the base;
• If necessary, after complete drying, the relief is painted on top. It is convenient to do surface staining with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Sharper color transitions will give acrylic paints;
• The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in hardware stores). Paints on dried plaster moldings fade, as on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their colors;
• After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tone stucco?

From the video above it is clear that you need to form a stucco bas-relief in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, layers are applied thin, 1-2 mm each. Usually, layers of kneading the density of low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with color (pigment) for gypsum; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment is taken in ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves, green is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with sandpaper-zero or, rough on large areas, with a metal brush. For more information about toning plaster moldings, see the next video.

Video: how to cover the bas-relief on the wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create high floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using as a model an inverted and lanolin-lubricated plate or bowl, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The stock solution described above is not used. It is strong, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not applied due to excessive material consumption; finished elements are painted.

For gypsum, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural gypsum is prepared. A model (an artificial flower, a napkin) is dipped into it and placed on a board covered with a plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution sets, it is dipped again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Flowers for drying are placed each time in the same position. Thus, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream density or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco ceiling for a chandelier (see fig.) Without experience. Plastering a model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and plastered with a brush. Gypsum mortar is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

The main snag here is the material of the model. Usually they are made of polystyrene, penofol, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but anyway, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown spots that cannot be removed begin to appear on the stucco molding. Therefore, models for plastering on the spot are best sculpted from salt dough, the very one from which Christmas tree decorations are made with their own hands. Salt dough is glued to plaster, stone and other mineral building materials with acrylic adhesive or any mounting adhesive. Stucco molding on non-removable models from salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic gypsum backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in fig., pos. a-e. Model 1 made of gypsum, plasticine, plastic, etc., or a model product that is desirable to be repeated/replicated, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with a film.

Then the model is smeared with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical vaseline, the model may stick to the mold. Gypsum and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is smeared several times, allowing the lanolin to soak for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough density with a thickness of approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffeners 5. The seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 and a few more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a set time of 3/4 strength with a cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. Flash is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is smeared with lanolin, like a model. The casting mass fills the mold layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyelets with a mustache are inserted into it (top right in the figure), for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebb lugs can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already sitting tightly in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is quite firm, but still slightly moist. It is unacceptable to test the strength of the fit of the lugs by rocking!

Currently for circulations up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way, they don’t pour from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model prepared, as in the previous. In this case, silicone is poured over in layers, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to obtain castings with shallow recesses, it is elastic and stretchable.

Also, small rounded gypsum parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish. In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. Silicone is poured into the flask all at once; the flask and the model are not smeared with anything. After the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of gypsum.

…and not vice versa

The mini-gypsum casting already uses a model to be removed; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting according to an investment model, then it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without cavities. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and a size such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a shield covered with foil. Then they put a flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is layer-by-layer doused with silicone, as in the previous. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is stuffed. The model is smelted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

modeling

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for the evening department of an art university or courses. It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with gypsum time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it sets. Technically, gypsum modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

flat

The technique of flat gypsum modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are like this. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fatty sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. Third, the next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to a smaller tool. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. In this case, from the denticles of the leaf to its petiole.

About branches

Branches on bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, medical. The thickness of the branches is regulated by pressing the piston more and more weakly (pos. 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is induced with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plastered as a non-removable model in place.

Strongly winding branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream density, laying it out on a shield covered with foil, along the contour, and after drying, sticking it on the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry firmly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left. If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plastered in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted batches. The desired color is obtained by grouting with a zero sandpaper.

sharp ribs

In the pictures with bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp ribs. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the large ones are formed by the fingers bent back of both palms folded. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly shifting/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion along the rib formation. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

Round

The basis of round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living being. Information about skeletons can be obtained from any course in the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is not a discipline of medical, but of art education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to heal, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and rigors of science.

Figure height approx. from 30-40 cm is molded along the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (pos. 2), but following the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of its part will be a dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is desirable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

• The base frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a winding of thin copper wire, and even better - soldering.
• Rolls of a medical bandage are soaked in a liquid, like fat-free kefir, gypsum solution, as for gypsum fractures of limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage starts to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the gypsum began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
• After the plastered frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), adjusted in shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use a thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is the branches of the main branches, pasted over with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for home-made high reliefs are molded separately; locally is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface - resp. plane so that the figures can be glued into place.

How to fix bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its supporting area accounts for more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm driven into plastic dowels are best suited for this. Attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten. The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fixing pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need is a piece of drywall with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flash to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

The proposed article describes the process of making gypsum stucco from and to, which, if desired, can be made at home. Moreover, of any shape and style, but on one condition - if you know how to sculpt something from plasticine. It is not necessary to be a professional sculptor with a "volumetric" vision of objects, it is enough to be able to fashion at least a chamomile or, say, a carrot and an apple from the same plasticine :) in a bas-relief, which will later serve as a model for making a beautiful gypsum ceiling cornice in the kitchen !

Let's get to the heart of the process. As an example, the photo shows an example of making a gypsum cornice with a grape ornament.

First of all, on a segment of a smooth cornice made of polyurethane or gypsum, we sculpt a fragment of the Grapes ornament from plasticine. As you already understood, in the future it will serve as a model for the future plaster ceiling cornice with a Grape ornament.

Next, the model is covered with molding silicone, which acts as a mold for pouring plaster. In our case, we used two-component silicone SK 764, consisting of silicone (liquid rubber) and a hardener.

Mixing proportions - for 100 g of silicone, add 2 cubes (2 g) of medium-sized syringes and carefully, with a stick, quickly mix and immediately pour onto the plasticine model.

After 24 hours, fill in the 2nd layer and immediately carefully cover it with small squares of pre-cut gauze from an ordinary medical bandage. The gauze serves as a reinforcing component for the rubber mold.

The next day, pour the 3rd layer. Everything, the form is ready! But we do not remove it from plasticine yet. The next step - you need to make a "pallet" - the basis for the resulting form of rubber. To do this, we apply a liquid solution of gypsum to the frozen silicone. We make the solution in a ratio of 1 to 1 (water and gypsum). Gypsum seizes very quickly, so you need to work with it very smartly.

The upper part of the pallet, as seen in the photo, is carefully cut off and leveled with a long paint spatula. From the beginning of work with gypsum to completion, you need to keep within about 20 minutes. As soon as the gypsum pallet seizes and cools down (during hardening, the gypsum heats up to 50 degrees due to the expansion of the gypsum structure), remove it, turn it over and put it on the table. After him, we remove the silicone mold from the plasticine, wash it in soapy water, and put it on a pallet. The mold is ready to be cast!

We pour liquid gypsum into the niches of the silicone mold, which, after hardening (20-30 minutes), is carefully removed from the silicone.

We repeat this operation 4 times - we cast 4 fragments of the Grapes ornament, which we need to assemble on the Main model of the cornice.

Looking forward to your feedback!

Source

The article discusses one of the most original and time-consuming ways of decorating the walls of an apartment: artistic modeling. It is believed that this phenomenon belongs to past eras, but reality shows that modeling is also used in modern interiors.

Modeling in the interior

Modeling on the wall is considered an original, albeit not a popular option for decorating a home. Despite a considerable number of alternative and artificial products, classical art modeling has not yet lost its relevance.

What is stucco on the walls

Stucco and bas-reliefs on the walls are a way to decorate the room in an original way and add some charm to the overall look.

Contrary to numerous misconceptions that stucco is not only an expensive, but also a complex technological process, in fact it is an affordable way of decorating that any patient and not devoid of imagination craftsman can handle.

Stucco molding on the walls is patterned, figured and in general artistic decorations that can be made from various materials.

Stucco molding on the walls in the apartment: where to use

Stucco on the walls in a modern apartment can get a lot of ways to use it. First of all, these are, of course, living quarters, where such decoration occupies a vast space on the wall. If desired, it is possible to vary the dimensions and volume of the decoration, as you like. Stucco is less common in rooms for other purposes, such as, for example, a kitchen or a bathroom, because in such places practicality plays a more important role than aesthetic qualities.

How to make stucco with your own hands at home

It is quite possible to make stucco on the wall with your own hands even without building skills or art education.

However, before embarking on this process, you will need to prepare. This implies, first of all, the preparation of the surface of the wall, which is desirable to level, and also without fail primed and dust-free.

Material selection

To create three-dimensional images on the walls, designed to serve as an original interior decoration, you will need to use any plastic material. Possible options include:

• Gypsum.
• Plaster.
• Clay.
• Alabaster.

The choice of material is carried out, first of all, starting from the cost of the material, as well as its characteristics.

Forming a sketch or wireframe

After the wall has been properly processed, and the material for modeling has been prepared, you need to worry about the formation of the sketch. It should be noted that the sketch will be one of the most important moments in the process under consideration, and it also affects the success of the entire decoration operation.

• To create a sketch and a future stencil, you can use thick paper or cardboard.
• The required image is drawn, copied or printed on a sheet, and then cut out along the contour.
• After that, it must be placed under a film, cellophane or other similar coating. The resulting product will serve as a stencil for future modeling.
• Attach the cut-out fragment with the necessary contours to the wall in the right place and, using, for example, a pencil or other similar tool, push the contours of the image into the putty layer.

Plaster molding on the wall

Gypsum is a plastic and flexible material that can be given any shape, it quickly hardens. Before applying, the gypsum is poured with water and thoroughly stirred, after which, armed with a scalpel with a knife and wire with molds, you can start making plaster molding on the wall with your own hands.

drying out

Gypsum is characterized by a tendency to accelerated hardening, so it is not recommended to perform complex parts that require long-term manufacturing. The duration and peculiarity of the drying process also depend on the density of the solution.

Opening varnish

The final finish will require the provision of a protective coating. This is necessary not only to preserve the aesthetic qualities, but also to protect the molding from shedding and destruction. Opening with acrylic varnish is considered one of the best options in this case.

Examples of stucco in the interior of the room

Stucco molding on the walls in modern apartments can be absolutely diverse. It depends not only on the imagination of the owners or the master, but also on:

• area reserved for decoration;
• selected materials;
• the characteristics of the premises and some other factors.

Flowers

Flowers, vines and plant images often become images used in wall stucco. As a rule, they are simple in execution due to the symmetry of the shapes and the simplicity of the lines.

Animals

The animal world is a less common motif in the images created by stucco, because it does not fit into every room, and to create high-quality works, the involvement of a master will be required.

Geometry

Geometric lines, shapes, intricate patterns are an original way to decorate a wall in almost any room. Such patterns are neutral and fit into most interiors, in addition, they are easy to create.

antique figures

They are one of the most difficult images. To create them, you will need not only an experienced craftsman, but also high-quality materials, good tools and a competent preparatory process.

What do-it-yourself stucco molding on the walls is done the fastest

As already mentioned, gypsum is one of the "fastest" materials, despite the fact that it will require some skill. It is easy and quick to apply, requires a minimum of effort and tools, and also quickly hardens.

What to Consider

Depending on the specifics of the planned work, a list of advantages and disadvantages is determined, with which you should first familiarize yourself and make a decision.

Care

Decorative modeling requires regular maintenance, but it is not an easy process. It must be washed with mild detergents that do not contain abrasives or acids.

Restoration

Restoration of stucco molding is carried out using the same materials that were used to create the pattern, in case of major damage. For smaller and minor defects, gypsum or putty can be used. Individual elements, if necessary, are cast separately or formed after applying the mixture.

Stucco on the walls is one of the most original and exotic ways to give the interior solidity and originality.

Useful video