Which paving slabs are best to lay in the yard. Which tiles are suitable for laying in the yard of a house Which tiles are best to choose for the yard

Extremely simple technology styling paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house allows the work to be carried out by an individual developer without the involvement of specialists. It is enough to organize the slopes of the pavement, install a storm drain, choose a rational layout scheme and the material to be used for paving, depending on the operational loads.

Before you start decorating your yard with FEM shaped paving elements, you need to learn how to properly plan the topography of the site and reduce the budget for landscaping the area. FEM are budget option finishes compared to asphalt concrete pavement, allow you to level out unevenness by terracing and making slopes of 4 - 7 degrees, necessary for gravity removal of rain and melt runoff.

To lay paving slabs evenly and ensure maximum coverage life, you should consider the following nuances operation:

Important! Storm drainage (point or linear) is necessary in any case, since FEMs are made of concrete, rubber or polymer concrete, and all these materials retain moisture on the surface.

Paving the yard with paving slabs

Laying tiles in the yard should take into account the technology features:

Advice! It is better to calculate the number of paving slabs after marking the yard, taking into account the layout scheme, the presence of curved sections and retaining walls for terracing the area.

Yard marking

At this stage it is necessary to beat off a single horizontal level yard, create slopes and outline the paving area with cords. To lay paving slabs on granular mixtures, you need a rigid base, preferably from soils with a minimum clay content. In practice, the developer faces the following problems:

The latter option automatically adds steps to transition between terraces. It is better to make them from FEM elements in order to maintain the unity of the landscape design style.

Therefore, marking the yard is necessary to outline the paving area from the surface of which it will be removed fertile layer and replaced with non-metallic material. To do this, pegs or cast-offs are used, the cord is pulled along the outer edge of the curbs or storm drainage trays.

Base requirements

If there is clay in the soil, it will swell in winter and destroy the coating. On a fresh embankment, on the contrary, the soil will subside over time. Therefore, in the first case, part of the soil (upper 40 cm) is replaced with an inert material that does not contain clay and swelling is minimized.

In the second option, the black soil is also removed, but to a depth of 0.6 m, a 15-20 cm layer of crushed stone is poured and a 10 cm footing is cast over the entire yard surface. Figured paving elements are laid on a layer of sand with a minimum thickness of 15 cm or paving (1/6 cement, sand, respectively) with a thickness of 10 cm minimum. All layers in mandatory compacted with a vibrating plate.

Preparing the mixture

Putting road surface You can use a solution, a dry mixture, or clean sand. The first option is expensive, the coating has zero repairability and is extremely sensitive to movements of the base. Gartsovka does not provide any special advantages in comparison with pure sand, since for the normal formation of cement stone, at least a minimum water-cement ratio is required, and not moisture accidentally penetrating into the lower level.

Preparation of prancing from cement and sand.

Curbs and storm drains

The resource and quality of paving directly depend on the technology for installing storm drains and garden borders. These elements are higher than paving slabs; for them, trenches will have to be deepened along the perimeter of the paving area. When laying them on the base, you should follow the following technology:

The laid curb is covered from the outside with soil, from the inside with non-metallic material (sand or crushed stone) at the same level with the surface of the underlying layer. Storm drainage trays and storm water inlets are installed at the lowest points of the paving area. To reduce the landscaping budget, storm drainage trays can replace curbs on one side of the yard.

Laying solid tiles

The paving stones are laid on the manufactured base using the following technology:

Rice. 8 Alignment of the prancing rule

• paving - according to the selected pattern and layout of the shaped paving elements, paving slabs are mounted on leveled bulk material close to each other.

The rule is made from flat, dry edged boards, in the lower part on both sides of which rectangular cuts are created with a hacksaw. Unlike tiles laid with glue, you can walk on paving stones right away, so it’s easier to work with the work in front of you. This makes it possible to level the entire paving surface along the beacons and lay the FEM elements in one go, which dramatically increases productivity.

Tool-free laying of paving stones on leveled and compacted sand

Advice! At quality leveling along the beacons of prancing or sand, the paving slabs do not even need to be upset with a rubber mallet. After filling the seams, the entire surface of the FEM is leveled and compacted with a vibrating plate, eliminating home handyman from manual labor.

Trimming and filling seams

It is possible to avoid cutting figured paving elements only in areas of regular geometric shape, and even then, not for all FEM collections. Trimming of paving slabs is necessary at junction points:

• at curbs, foundations, plinths;
• near rainwater inlets and at intersections;
• on radial, winding sections.

The FEM is cut using a diamond disc or an angle grinder using stone tools. Unlike some curbs, paving slabs do not have reinforcement and are quite easy to cut.

For some modifications of FEM, manufacturers produce halves, which allows you to do without trimming.

At the last stage, the laid facing material must be additionally protected from displacement during operation. To do this, the seams should be filled with quartz or washed quarry sand. Particles of these materials have a torn edge, so they self-weed inside the seams under their own weight, are not washed out by rain and are not blown away by the wind.

Backfilling of joints with FEM.

Sand is poured in heaps over the paving area before compacting the lining with a vibrating plate, and swept with a brush over the entire surface of the yard. Bulk material penetrates into the seams on its own; after treating the surface with a vibrating plate, the remaining bulk material is swept away.

Interface with blind area

If you plan to pave the entire courtyard area with paving slabs, then the blind area is also decorated with this material by default. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the nuances:

• the width of the blind area should be 15–20 cm greater than the projection of the roof onto the ground;
• the slope of the blind area should be from the walls outwards within 4 - 7 degrees;
• the topography of the courtyard area, in turn, may have a slope towards the cottage.

Therefore, a linear storm drain from surface trays should be installed along the perimeter of the blind area. Or provide drainage from a waterproof surface concrete covering into point rainwater inlets installed at the lower points of the yard, and arrange the slopes of the paving stones in their direction.

Interface unit for the blind area and paving of the yard with storm drainage elements.

Important! At the stage of manufacturing the underlying layer, drainage pipes are laid from storm water inlets towards an underground reservoir to receive and accumulate wastewater.

Thus, paving the yard with paving slabs on our own does not pose any difficulties for an individual developer, even on uneven terrain. It is necessary to take into account the composition of the soil and its bearing capacity depending on the operational loads on this decorative coating.

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When purchasing a plot for cottage development, the owner immediately has the question of purchasing high-quality paving slabs. After all, this building material in the best possible way suitable for creating a parking lot, a platform for a car, garden paths and even building a porch for country house. For most buyers one of the most important properties paving slabs, first of all, is durability. Only secondarily do they look at the shape and color. In this article we will tell you how to choose durable paving slabs.

What factors affect the durability of tiles?

Modern paving slabs are made of concrete. Accordingly, its durability is influenced by those factors from which concrete can collapse. The following can be distinguished from them:

• discrepancy between the load and the thickness and dimensions of the selected paving slabs;
• absence winter care behind the tiles;
• poor quality of the concrete from which the tiles were made;
• inconsistency of tile properties with climatic conditions.

At the time of purchase building material our choices can influence most of these factors. Below we will look at the main ones.

Differences in paving slabs by physical properties

When choosing a building material, you must find out whether it can withstand the climatic conditions of your region of residence. In the production of paving slabs, concrete of different frost resistance can be used. For Russia, concrete with frost resistance below F200 cannot be used. It cannot withstand temperatures below minus 15 degrees Celsius. If in your region the temperature drops below 45 degrees in winter, then you need to use tiles made of concrete with frost resistance F300.

The durability of paving slabs is also affected by the technology used to make paving slabs. In this regard, vibrocompression is better than vibrocasting. Pressing allows you to get concrete products with fewer micropores into which water can penetrate and destroy the concrete when it freezes. Most often, after winter, vibro-cast paving slabs begin to crumble Bad quality. Of course, you cannot determine the quality of concrete by eye. In this regard, you should trust quality certificates for products, which, however, do not guarantee that your batch of tiles fully complies with GOST or SNIP, as well as reviews from customers who have used this building material for at least a year.

Selection of paving slabs by thickness

In order for your playground or garden path made of paving slabs to last as long as possible, you need to choose the right thickness of the building material. On the market you can see a selection of paving slabs with a thickness from 20 to 80 or more millimeters. It is designed for different loads.

For garden paths and small sidewalks, paving slabs 30 mm thick will be sufficient. If you are paving a parking lot or area in the yard for parking a car, it is better to use paving slabs with a thickness of 60 mm. Roads for road transport and trucks are best made from tiles with a thickness of 80 mm or more.

We hope our tips will help you choose durable paving slabs.

Pay attention to the paving slabs. This material has proven itself to be excellent, it is strong, durable, and beautiful. Nowadays there are many types of paving slabs and everyone can choose one that suits the facade of the house or just one that suits their taste. Laying paving slabs with your own hands may seem like a very difficult and troublesome task, but in fact everything is extremely simple. Paths in the garden can be paved with paving slabs in a weekend, but to cover a large yard it will take about two weeks and a helper.

Before you start laying, you need to understand the main types of paving slabs. The main types of paving slabs are stamped and vibrocast. It is better to opt for vibro-cast paving slabs, which will more than pay for the slightly higher cost with their beautiful appearance. appearance and durability.

The thickness of paving slabs may vary. Typically, the thickness of paving slabs varies between 20-60 mm. 20mm paving slabs are suitable for garden paths or areas that are guaranteed not to be driven by cars. In the yard, paving slabs with a thickness of 40-45 mm are most often laid. 60mm tiles are laid where multi-ton trucks will travel.

The tile pattern can be any, but beginners are not recommended to lay tiles such as “rhombus”, “brick” and “paving stones”. It is more difficult to lay such tiles; craftsmen charge more for working with them.

The color of the tile can also be almost any, but it is worth considering that colored tiles are more expensive than gray ones.
This article discusses the technology of laying paving slabs with your own hands.

Materials and tools for laying paving slabs

• Sand. You will need quite a lot of sand (several tons), its quantity depends on the area of ​​the yard, as well as the features of the landscape.
• Paving slabs (quantity is calculated by the manufacturer based on quadrature).

• Border
• Cement

• Strong elastic thread
• Metal pegs
• Hammer
• Rubber hammer

• Shovel
• Long Rule
• Two steel pipes about an inch in diameter
• Tamping
• Wheelbarrow
• Level
• Master OK
• Buckets
• Broom
• Grinder with diamond blade for cutting concrete

• Knee pads

Laying paving slabs with your own hands

Decide on the slope of the site. A slope of several degrees must be present, otherwise after rain there will be water in the yard. The slope is best done towards the street. If you decide to follow this advice, then the street level is taken as the zero point.

Along the zero line (the line towards which the site will be inclined), drive two metal pegs into the ground and stretch a thread between them. Check horizontality using a level. It is better to apply the level to the thread from below.

Tie another thread to one of the pegs and pull it perpendicular to the first. Tie the free end of the thread to a new peg and drive it into the ground so much that the second end is slightly above the zero line. This can be checked using a level (the angle of inclination should be several degrees).

Tie another thread to the last hammered peg at the same level as the previous one and pull it parallel to the zero line, check the horizontalness using a level. Tie the free end to the fourth peg.

Connect the first and last pegs with a thread. As a result, you will get a rectangle, marked with threads and lying in the plane of the future site with laid paving slabs.

Now we need to divide our surface into strips. The width of the stripes is selected based on the length of your rule (the stripe should be several tens of centimeters narrower than the rule). Set aside the selected distance from the zero line and drive a peg into the ground. Do the same on the opposite side. Connect the pegs with a thread, equalizing its height along the sides of the rectangle, perpendicular to the zero line. In the same way, divide the entire area into strips.

Now you need to level the site relative to the markings. Where the thread is too close to the ground, the soil must be removed, and where the holes are too large, add more. The gap between the soil and the threads should be approximately two thicknesses of the tile. All this is done by eye, no special precision is required.

The soil, especially where it was added, must be thoroughly compacted. A tamper is used for this. In our case, the tamper was made independently from a crane arm with a welded handle.

When the area is leveled, you can begin laying paving slabs.

Prepare a sand-cement mixture. To do this, pour a pile of sand directly on the ground, gradually mixing cement into it in a ratio of about 6 to 1. It is desirable that the sand is wet, so it is better to lay paving slabs in spring or autumn, when it is not very hot and quite damp.

Distribute the prepared mixture evenly over one of the strips.

Tamp down thoroughly.

Lay steel pipes under the threads marking the boundaries of the strip. The gap between the pipe and the thread should be approximately a centimeter less than the thickness of the tile. The pipes must be strictly parallel to the threads and be at the same height.

Wear shoes and pants that you don't mind getting ruined, and don't forget about knee pads. Kneel between the threads, pass the rule under them and run along the surface of the pipes. You will see where you need to add the cement-sand mixture.

Fill required quantity cement-sand mixture. Start compacting it with your hands while simultaneously stretching the rule. You will have a smooth strip, ready for installation. You can take a little cement-sand mixture and sprinkle it over the leveled area.

Prepare and carefully inspect the tiles, lay them in stacks near the prepared area. The tiles are mostly smooth, but there are some defects. Some tiles can be convex (turtle), concave (plate), or curved (propeller). It is better not to use such tiles and put them aside as a last resort.

Lay one tile, carefully aligning it along the marking axes.

Tap the tile with a rubber hammer, pushing it into the ground to the marking level.

Do the same with the next tile. The sequence of laying the tiles is selected depending on the tile pattern.

Start laying paving slabs from yourself. So, gradually moving forward, you will walk on the newly laid tiles.

Prepare the base in the same way and lay the next strip of paving slabs.

If there are any obstacles on the way (in our case gas pipe And sewer hatch), they need to be bypassed with whole tiles. The final trimming and fitting is best done at the end.

After each working day, the tiles need to be swept. When laying, gaps form between the tiles that need to be filled. It is the process of filling the cracks that is called sweeping. For sweeping we need dry sand and cement. They need to be mixed in a ratio of 1 to 6. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the tiles, and then sweep with a broom several times, filling the cracks.

Attention: sometimes when using a sand-cement mixture for sweeping, colored tiles may remain white coating from cement. This may be due to the quality of the tile, or the peculiarities of its production. Conscientious tile manufacturers in such cases advise sweeping with clean sand. If in doubt, you can avoid using a mixture of sand and cement, use only sand.

It is unlikely that your plot will be perfectly rectangular, so you will not be able to do without trimming. Where you need to trim is determined by location. Trimming the tiles is done using a grinder with a diamond disc for concrete.

If you want to make flower beds, mark them using threads or taps. Saw off any excess tiles protruding beyond the borders of the flower beds.

Flowerbeds and edges of the area with laid tiles should be framed with a border. To do this, dig a trench along the edge with a trowel or small spatula. The depth of the trench is selected based on the planting depth of the curb.

Install the curb sections and secure them to the meth with thick mortar.

Near the curbs you will have cells where you need to lay the cut tiles. The soil in these places must be compacted especially carefully, as it could crumble when digging a trench.

Trim the remaining tiles needed to fill the gaps created by avoiding obstacles.

Where the tiles come close to the gate, it is better to lay them not on a cement-sand mixture, but on a mortar, since in this place the load on the tiles will be maximum.

This article discusses the process of laying tiles in the yard, but in the case of garden paths and with a blind area everything is much simpler and does not require such careful preparation.

Covering paths and areas with paving slabs is the most common. There are rules on how to lay paving slabs in the yard yourself and do it efficiently, while saving on the work of craftsmen. There are universal schemes for laying one type of paving or another. More complex options laying tiles will require a careful approach, self-development scheme. But even this is quite possible for a novice master to master.

Properly laid tiles will last long years.

Methods for laying paving slabs

There are several ways:

1. On a sand cushion. With this method, the tiles are laid on a layer of wet sand. Paths laid out in this way are suitable for decorating a garden. Thanks to the seams between the tiles filled with sand, water will easily drain away and not stagnate.
2. For cement-sand mixture. Cement and wet sand are mixed in a ratio of 1:5 and distributed over the surface of future paths. This method is used most often due to its reliability, ease and availability of coating repairs.
3. On cement-sand mortar. Cement, sand and water are mixed in a concrete mixer. The resulting solution is applied to the surface with a trowel. The tiles are laid and compacted with a mallet. This method is the most reliable, but care must be taken to ensure drainage. Repair damaged areas paving laid in this way will be problematic.

Options for laying paving slabs

There are many schemes for how to lay paving slabs. Here are some of them:

1. Herringbone or wicker. This option is one of the most common. Tiles are laid out at an angle of 45° or 90°. Wickerwork is a type of herringbone masonry in which the elements alternate to form an interlacing.
2. Chaotic masonry. This method is very easy to work with, and such paths will look very interesting. Tiles are suitable for it different colors and sizes, which will be placed arbitrarily.
3. Checkerboard laying. For this method, square or figured tiles of 2 colors are suitable. You can also lay out squares of 2 in a checkerboard pattern. rectangular tiles, laid in different directions.
4. Laying in a circular pattern. This method of laying paving slabs is more complex than the previous ones. Thanks to this installation, you can create very beautiful multi-colored areas by making certain circular patterns. Such paths and platforms will look beautiful both from close distance and from above.
5. Combination of tiles with lawn. Very original solution will make paving of paths and areas in combination with a lawn or flower beds. You can make small flower beds framed with tiles, or you can use specially shaped tiles that are designed specifically for such laying. This method will make your site very attractive.

Preparation for laying paving slabs

Materials for laying paving slabs:

Before laying paving stones, it is necessary to mark the area.

• paving slabs;
• curbs;
• crushed stone fraction 20-50;
• sand;
• cement M400 or M500;
• geotextiles.

To correctly calculate the amount of material, first make a site planning project, in which you indicate the location and dimensions of all paths. When calculating the amount of paving slabs for direct laying, add a 20% reserve for trimming and in case of damage. If you plan to lay tiles diagonally, the margin should be 30%.

To lay paving slabs you need the following tools:

• grinder with a diamond blade for cutting tiles;
• shovel;
• tamping;
• Master OK;
• mallet;
• hammer;
• rake;
• broom;
• building level 1.5-2 m long;
• roulette;
• wooden pegs;
• cord for marking.

Work on laying paving slabs must be carried out wearing special knee pads and waterproof gloves. Provide access to water and electricity.

Step-by-step instructions for laying paving slabs

The most important rule when constructing paths is to ensure normal drainage so that water does not stagnate and destroy the coating.

For this purpose, the paths are made with a slight slope - 5 mm per meter.

Instructions (suitable for laying paving slabs on sand and cement-sand cushion):

For safe work, knee pads must be used.

1. If there is an old coating, remove it. Remove a layer of soil 20 cm thick. Remove unnecessary plants, tree roots and stumps. Treat the surface with herbicide.
2. Mark future paths and areas. Use pegs and a cord stretched between them for this. This will determine the boundaries of the tracks. The marking of sites should be carried out in strips 1-1.5 m wide.
3. Provide a slope for the outflow of rain and melt water. It is advisable to do it towards the street, taking this point as the zero mark.
4. Using the markings, level the platforms. To do this, remove excess soil and fill the depressions with it. The distance between the ground and the markings should be two thicknesses of the tiles. Compact the soil.
5. Spread the crushed stone in an even layer and level it over the entire area of ​​the paths and platforms.
6. Lay geotextiles on top of the crushed stone, which will prevent the sand from subsiding and prevent the future coating from sagging.
7. Add an even layer of sand and compact it. It is convenient to use a rake to distribute it evenly. Sand must be compacted after it has been moistened.
8. To further strengthen the base, you can make a thin screed.
9. Next, pour a laying layer of cement and wet sand in a ratio of 1:5. Spread this mixture evenly using a rule or a flat board and tamp it down.
10. Sort the paving slabs. Set aside defective or damaged items. Move the material closer to the work site.
11. Proceed to laying paving slabs according to the chosen pattern. Try not to disturb the already laid coating while working. Tap each tile over the entire surface with a mallet until it reaches the desired position at the required level.
12. Drains and manholes located on platforms and paths must be skipped. You will lay the tiles around them at the end from scraps and leftover elements.
13. After the covering is laid, the seams between the tiles are filled with a cement-sand mixture (1:5). To do this, pour it onto the surface of the paths and mark it with a broom, carefully filling the seams.
14. To install curbs, a trench is dug. Curbs are installed in it, and the outer side is filled with cement-sand mortar.
15. When the work is completed, you need to check the surface using a level and level the protruding elements of the coating using a mallet. The sunken tiles need to be removed, added with a cement-sand mixture and laid again, compacting them.
16. At the end of the work, the paving areas and paths are watered with water so that it saturates the paving layer and seams. If the cement-sand mixture in the seams has sagged, you need to repeat the procedure for filling them and spill water again.

After 2 days, the tracks can be put into operation.

General rules for laying paving slabs that must be followed, regardless of which method and installation option you choose:

• laying paving slabs is not carried out in wet weather (in extreme cases, you can make a canopy); it is best to work in cloudy, cool weather;
• It is not recommended to use sawdust to fill joints;
• complex soils require a concrete pad 80 mm thick so that the base with the tiles does not move, after which a layer of cement-sand mixture 40 mm thick is made;
• for heavy loads, paving is done with a 25 mm layer of cement-sand mortar applied to a reinforced concrete pad;
• in places near the gates and porch of the house, it is better to lay the tiles on the mortar, since there the greatest load is placed on the paving;
• paths and platforms must have good drainage and a slope of 3-5°.

High-quality paving slabs, laid with your own hands on the territory of a private house according to all the rules with high-quality drainage, will serve for many years and will not lose their original aesthetic appearance.

If you can’t decide which paving slabs to choose, our article will help you figure it out wide range and choose the material that is ideal for your purposes.

History of paving slabs

This material has been used since ancient times to create durable and strong roads. IN Ancient Rome and Greece, it was used to pave city sidewalks, as well as embankments and the largest roads that were of national importance. Paving slabs began to be mass-produced in our country in the 70s of the twentieth century. The technologies of those times made it possible to create only very large slabs, which after a few years of use would crack or become deformed.

Modern technologies for the production of this material have not only significantly reduced the size of the slabs, but also taken their quality to a completely new level. All existing on this moment types of paving slabs characterized by increased strength and long service life. Installation of such material is very simple, it is cheap and does not require any special care.

Advantages of modern paving slabs:

• It can withstand sudden temperature changes, so this material can be used in any climate zone.
• Paving slabs are absolutely safe for the environment and human health; when they are heated in the sun, they do not release toxic fumes into the air, as happens when asphalt overheats. Therefore, it can be used to create paths, areas around residential buildings, near children's institutions, hospitals.
• One of its main advantages is durability; if the technology for laying the material is fully followed, it will last for decades.
• Sidewalks made from such tiles are very easy to disassemble if repairs to underground utilities are necessary. After the work is completed, the material is laid again, and the sidewalk takes on the neat appearance it had before.
• Any type of paving slabs looks much more beautiful than asphalt. With its help you can create decorative paths in the garden, decorate the territory of private houses, sanatoriums, educational institutions and all kinds of institutions. It is often used to create neat sidewalks in front of shops, offices, shopping centers. It is also ideal for creating durable pedestrian paths in the city center, on embankments. The scope of application of this material is extensive.
• There will be no puddles or dirt on such sidewalks if the tile laying technology is followed. Rain and thawed water will quickly seep through the seams into the ground.

Disadvantages of paving slabs:

• A layer of ice may form on such a sidewalk if frost suddenly sets in after wet weather. In this case, the tile becomes traumatic; it must be sprinkled with sand.
• If you violate the laying technology, then over time the tiles can sag, sometimes quite significantly, forming holes and cracking.

Depending on the material and production technology, the following main types of paving slabs are distinguished:

• Cement-sand tiles. It is made from cement, crushed stone (gravel) and water, so it is environmentally friendly. It is produced in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. The colors of this type of paving slabs always remain bright and do not fade in the sun. It is suitable for creating city sidewalks along which a huge number of people will pass every day, as it is durable and does not wear out. The water in it will not stand on the surface; it very quickly seeps through the seams into the ground. It can also be dismantled and put back many times if necessary, this will not affect its strength.
• If you need safe paving slabs, choose clinker slabs. On such a sidewalk or path it will be impossible to accidentally slip in shoes with smooth soles, since their surface is rough. It is produced from special grades of clay using high-temperature firing in ovens. It is absolutely safe for human health and the environment, as it will not emit any dangerous fumes. This tile has excellent durability and strength. It also comes in very beautiful natural colors.
• If you are interested in which paving slabs are best for creating paths in the courtyard of children's institutions or for landscaping the area around a swimming pool, rubber ones are best suited for these purposes. It is made from polyurethane, rubber mass and filler, processing these materials at high temperatures. This tile is ideal for use on playgrounds; it is impossible to slip on it or get hit hard if you fall. Even during icy conditions, its rough, soft structure will ensure excellent contact with the shoes.
• If you need indelible paving slabs, choose plastic (polymer-sand) ones. It is made from sand, polymers and dyes, the whole mixture is melted at +260 degrees and above, and then pressed. This type of tile is the most durable, as it has zero abrasion. It contains no toxic substances or cement dust. It can withstand high mechanical loads without chipping or cracking. Caring for it is very simple; if it gets dirty, it can be washed with water or using soap solution. The colors of this type of paving slabs will pleasantly surprise you; a wide range of shades will allow you to create real masterpieces of landscape design and tastefully improve the area.
• Granite tiles are produced by sintering crumbs natural stone. It is the most resistant to aggressive substances. If you don’t know which paving slabs to choose so that they look rich and are durable, opt for granite. This material is good because it does not allow lifting groundwater, also it does not fade in the sun. If necessary, it can be disassembled and re-installed many times.

The most common is tile, which is made from concrete.

Depending on the production technology, it is divided into three types:

• Made by vibration casting. The concrete mixture is poured into molds, which are placed on a vibrating table that provides continuous vibration. Thanks to this, excellent compaction of the mixture occurs. Then the tiles are dried for about 12 hours at a temperature of +40 degrees. These types of paving slabs are characterized by increased frost resistance; they can withstand up to 200 cycles of complete freezing and thawing. It turns out to be highly durable and suitable for city sidewalks with a large flow of people. On average, its service life is about 10 years.
• Made by vibration pressing. Concrete mix it is poured into molds on a vibration machine, and the top is pressed using a piston, which also creates continuous vibration. Thanks to this, the mixture quickly thickens. The tile created in this way is rough and has a strict geometric shape. Thanks to this, when all laying technologies are followed, the sidewalk surface is perfectly flat. If you are wondering which paving slabs to choose for a high-traffic street, choose this option. Vibropressed tiles are ideal for use in conditions of temperature changes and high humidity. It can withstand about 300 cycles of complete freezing and thawing.
• Made by hyperpressing method. The manufacturing technology is similar to the previous method, but everything happens without vibration. Hydraulic Press creates high pressure onto the mixture, due to which it quickly thickens. This production method is fully automated, which significantly reduces the level of defects that may arise due to the human factor. Thanks to the lack self made it costs less.

Depending on the shape, the following main types of paving slabs are distinguished (photo):

• Clover-shaped tiles can often be seen in parks and squares. It is made of concrete to which granite crushed stone is added. The main advantage of such tiles is its smooth surface, which is not saturated with dirt, so it is weather conditions remains clean and aesthetically pleasing.
• The “Brick” tile perfectly withstands high loads due to its regular geometric shape in the form of a parallelepiped.
• Tiles with wavy edges are good because they do not move when long term operation and high surface loads. The sidewalk is very durable thanks to the “puzzle effect”, which is achieved due to the uneven edges of the tiles.
• Galvanized tiles with rounded corners are ideal for summer cottage or the territory of a private house, where there will not be huge loads on the surface. It is inferior in strength to previous types, but with its help you can create very beautiful paths And landscape design.
• English cobblestone tiles look like gray or brown natural stone. It is made from concrete using vibration casting. It is rectangular in shape with a textured surface. This tile looks simple and stylish.
• Tiles with scalloped side profiles are ideal for creating surfaces for vehicles to drive over. It is characterized by the highest strength of joining of elements.

Now you know what paving slabs are. But besides its standard varieties, there are very unusual and original ones.

Marble tiles

It's incredibly beautiful natural material, which is used to decorate terraces and paths on the territory of a private house, it can also be used to create a very durable floor in rooms. Marble is ideal for decorating theaters, museums, and temples. It is unique in that each tile will have its own unique natural pattern, even if the entire batch is made from one block of marble. This material is characterized by high resistance to abrasion and temperature changes.

Glowing tile

This is a unique modern invention, such tiles radiate in the dark soft light. With its help you can create an amazing landscape design. Glowing paths on the territory of a private house, hotel, restaurant will look amazing.

You won’t need any wires or electricity, because such tiles emit light thanks to LEDs that operate on solar powered. There are no costs required to maintain such luminous paths; they are completely autonomous. You need to lay such tiles where the sun hits during the day so that the glow in the evening and at night is as bright as possible.