Tuning of pvc motor boats. Whatever your soul is for, your hands will put your hands to it, pvc boat tuning

Equipment inflatable boat requires material and physical costs from the owner and usually additional equipment costs much more than the vessel itself.

There is no limit to perfection; every year more new accessories are added to the boat, and often fishermen are held back only by the lack of funds.

When purchasing a boat, sooner or later you will want to purchase the following equipment.

Compressor or pump

The first thing you will need is an inflator.

Boat owners know how long and tedious it can be to pump up their boat before going fishing. All serial inflatable boats are equipped with . The time it takes to inflate a standard boat using a mechanical pump is about twenty minutes. In addition, the legs get tired quickly from monotonous movements.

Great solution The problem will be the compressor. This device perfectly reduces the time of pumping up the boat and saves the fisherman’s effort. The following types of compressors can now be purchased in stores:

Compressors with built-in batteries;

Compressors connected to the battery;

Automotive compressors operating from the vehicle network. Those car owners who have such a device will only be able to buy a special adapter and hose, after which they can safely inflate a PVC boat.

The motor will help you move around the pond at a higher speed and make it easier to maneuver the vessel between the reeds.

There are a large number of motors on the market, but a PVC boat can only be equipped with an electric motor.

The motor is secured with special clamps that are included in the kit. The engine is fixed to the transom of the vessel with screws.

You can control the motor using a remote control or a special handle.

The electric motor runs on batteries, which can be charged from a regular outlet.

The operating time of the motor is limited by the battery charge level.

Hanging transom

The purchased boat is not always equipped with the outboard necessary to install a motor.
You will have to purchase it or make it yourself.

seat

Very often, fishermen try to improve boat seats.

IN basic configuration There are plywood seats that are highly moisture resistant. They are very uncomfortable to sit on, especially when fishing takes a long time.

For comfort, you can use soft pads for boat seats. The pads, in addition to a soft and comfortable base, are equipped with fixing elements on the base boat bench, thanks to which they will not slip or fall off.

There are soft inflatable chairs or inflatable ottomans.

An indispensable accessory if you care about your health and don’t want to overstrain yourself lowering the boat into the water or pulling it out of the water.

A fully equipped boat has quite a lot of weight. If you add wheels to it, then launching the vessel into the water will be much easier.

If you have transom wheels, you can simply move the boat short distances along the shore. In stores you can find wheels of various types and sizes.

Designed for storing fishing gear, food, ropes, anchors and other accessories.

It is located on the inner bow space of the boat, so it does not interfere in any way during fishing.

Bags are made from waterproof materials that are easy to mechanical cleaning. The bag is roomy and lasts a very long time.

Additional mounts for oars and rods

They are placed along the boat on cylinders. In this case, the oars and spare rods will be located on the body of the cylinders; they will not interfere with the fisherman doing what he loves.

If you need to remove excess gear, you can quickly pull it out of the holders. Such devices are called universal mounting blocks.

An excellent fisherman's assistant. The device's sensor is mounted on the ship's hull. The fisherman can watch underwater objects on the monitor. makes the fishing process as productive as possible.

Anchor

In stores you can find anchors of different weights and sizes. You need to choose depending on the fishing circumstances.

If the body of water is familiar to you and you are confident in the structure of the bottom, then choose an anchor that is specific in weight and shape.

If you still need to focus on weather conditions(windy or calm weather).

It is better to store the ropes for the anchor on spools or special reels, so they will not lie under your feet, interfere and get tangled.

Awning

In order for your boat to last a long time, you need to take care of it and take care of it.

The parking lot will help protect it from influences external environment during transportation and when parked.

A running awning, on the contrary, will protect you from bad weather or heat and will not allow water to penetrate into the cockpit.

Life jacket

This individual remedy rescue must be present on your ship, otherwise you will be in trouble during any inspection by the inspector.

Fishing equipment

It is also worth equipping the boat with a scoop, a landing net and a hook. These elements fishing will always come in handy.

Folk sign: You can’t spit over the side of the boat, trouble is bound to happen!

JavaScript disabled

You have JavaScript disabled. Some system features will not work. Please enable JavaScript to access all features.

Tuning an inflatable boat.

Messages in topic: 14

Fedorych

Fedorych

• City of Pskov

Sail for an inflatable boat.

If the boat is too rolly or has less freeboard, the sail area must be reduced to 8 L In the ratio of length to width - more than 3.5. IN

Many sailing rig designs have been developed for inflatable vessels. The optimal one should be considered a catboat with a sprint type sail and a maximum allowable sail area of ​​4-5 m2. If the boat is operated by an inexperienced navigator, the area should be reduced by 1 - 1.5 m 2With with the help of reefs with which the sail must be equipped. An option for arming an inflatable boat of the "Volna" type with a sprint mainsail and jib is shown in Fig. 1.

All main parts of the spar and rigging (mast, beam, shrouds) are attached to the transverse wooden beam passed through rubber oarlocks. The mast is mounted in a soft wire suspension and supported by shrouds attached to wooden slats along the aft sides. To the ends protruding outward from the oarlocks cross beam slats with duralumin slots attached to them are hung. The slats are held in place by wire stoppers, and the beam itself is held against transverse movements by washers, which are pressed closely to the oarlocks with wire cotter pins. In addition to the shrouds, oarlock loops made of a strong cable and a pile of jib sheets are attached to the longitudinal slats. Rice. 1. Sailing rig of the boat “Volna”

The mast, 2.6 meters long, for ease of transportation, consists of two pieces of duralumin tube with a diameter of 40 millimeters, with a wall thickness of 1.5 millimeters. Standing rigging (shrouds and stay) made of synthetic cables is attached to the top of the mast to a yoke twisted from wire.

The steering wheel is hung on a board passed under the handles at the ends of the cylinders, which are used to carry the boat. There is a hole in the board for the baller. The upper part of the steering wheel is made of two bars, between which a folding rudder blade is installed. The stern cross member also has cleats for the boom sheets and eyelets into which the longitudinal beams are inserted.

If the boat is equipped with shares, then the most important unit - fastening the mast and screws - can be made even more reliably (see Fig. 2). In this case, the shverz-beam is attached to the transverse rail of the floorboard using a plywood panel measuring 750xx350 millimeters and brackets. The mast is inserted into the spots and steps, fixed to the plywood flooring. The doors can be cut from bakelised plywood 8-10 millimeters thick. They rotate on pins at the ends of the swivel beams. Two trapezoidal plywood strips, located at the ends of the beam, hold the beam in a vertical position. When touching the ground, the bolts are tilted back, and when they are not needed, they can be raised up and locked in place. horizontal position wing nuts. Rice. 2. Mounting the mast on Nyrka-1

The mainsail is attached to the mast and boom with a thin synthetic cable through the eyelets in a “snake” fashion, and the jib is attached by the luff to a steel cable, which also serves as a forestay.

It should be noted that the presence of a jib complicates the design of the sailing rig of an inflatable boat and creates additional difficulties during rigging. Therefore, simpler weapons consisting of one mainsail are preferable. A version of this equipment was developed for the inflatable boat “Nyrok-1”. It is also suitable for boats of other models. The design has only one complex unit - fastening the screws. The fact is that they cannot be immediately firmly fixed in one place. They must move along the side to shift the center of lateral resistance relative to the center of sail, that is, to center the boat

3. Sailing equipment.

To increase the rigidity of the hull and uniformly distribute the load from the sailing rig, a support is installed on the bottom of the boat from duralumin tubes (halves of a sports hoop), bent along the contours of the bottom and reinforced in the longitudinal direction with tubes from ski poles. A step ring made from a piece of pipe is installed on this support. The freely rotating mast passes through a pyatner - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 40 and a thickness of 1 millimeter, secured by a tripod made of ski poles, which rests on the edge of the seat and the bow eye.

A beam made from a duralumin tube with a diameter of 25 and a thickness of 1 millimeter is also installed on two tubes made of ski poles, laid along the sides and attached to standard oarlocks and rubber lugs. By moving the screws, you can adjust the centering of the boat.

The rudder blade is mounted on a special bracket behind the stern. It is secured with an eye bolt to a flange attached to the bottom support.

The mainsail is attached to the mast and boom with a thin cable using the “snake” method.

The mast consists of two pipe sections 45x1.5x1150 millimeters each, connected by a coupling. There is no standing rigging. The sail is controlled by a boom sheet passed through a block attached to the rudder bracket.

G. Novak Leningrad (St. Petersburg)

Fedorych

Fedorych

• City of Pskov

Protecting your boat from theft

To sleep peacefully or protect the boat from theft
Browsing various fishing and boating forums, lately I began to increasingly see reports of thefts of honestly acquired motorboat property, and in various combinations. They steal motors, they steal boats, they steal boats with motors. Most often this happens at night, in the morning, at three or four o'clock, when sleep is so sweet and deep. Moreover, the probability of finding stolen property in our country is approaching a vanishingly small value, and the owners sometimes show surprising carelessness. Many times I have seen such a picture: a boat, even with a motor, sways peacefully near the shore, often practically unsecured, and the owner is busy tasting drinks of varying degrees of strength and quality. It all ends with two options, either the next day the boat will be found several kilometers downstream, complete or not, and this will be the best option, or it will never be found, and the unlucky owner will pour out his grief in various social networks, not thinking about this simple fact that safety own property with us, with rare exceptions, it depends ONLY on the owner himself. No one would think of leaving a car on the street without installing various locking and alarm systems. This happens all the time with boats. And there are plenty of people who like to buy something for free.

Now a few words for those who want to sleep peacefully. There are several ways to protect your property.

- Passive method. Reliably, with the help steel cable or chains, secure the boat and motor to a massive object, for example to a tree or a metal pin driven into the ground, the latter is very convenient if the parking place is on the shore constantly throughout the season. The method is very simple and easy to implement, and has a very low cost. There is only one drawback: it only saves you from unprofessional robbers, because... the latter may well know about it and use pliers and wire cutters for fittings, which are freely sold in construction stores and can easily cut through the shackle of almost any lock.

-Active method. Installation of various alarm systems. I would like to note right away that in our market I have not come across any special systems designed specifically for boats, so I will have to put my hands and head into making the adaptation.

Option one– adaptation of a conventional car alarm. Among the advantages is a wide selection, the ability to connect various sensors, including motion and impact. The main disadvantage, in my opinion, is the complete lack of mobility; it requires a permanent installation. It may well be suitable for a rigid hull or RIB, but it is not suitable for an inflatable boat.

Option two– various volume and motion sensors. Quite universal, suitable for all types of cases. When choosing, you need to pay attention to autonomous systems, with built-in or external siren. There is only one drawback: the system reacts not only to an intruder, but also to dogs, cats, flying birds and bats and other living creatures. If the sensitivity is adjusted incorrectly, it can drive an unlucky user crazy. Advantage - as a rule, it does not require modifications, turn it on, configure it and sleep well.

Option three– various contact and non-contact displacement sensors. Advantages: low cost, decent reliability and absence of false positives. Disadvantage: they require serious modifications. Small-sized autonomous window and door sirens, as well as various radio bells, are quite suitable for this purpose. In the first case, when trying to move a boat or motor, the siren scares the thief and wakes up the owner, in the second, it only wakes up the owner, leaving him with the choice of what to do with the thieves: shoot them immediately or, after catching them, fry them over low heat...

As an example, I will give one of the options simplest signaling, made and used by me.

The siren is rigidly fixed on the large rod, the small rod is movable, spring-loaded, and a sensor magnet is mounted on it. The plate prevents the boat material from being pressed through.
Usage is extremely simple. We install the sensor at a certain angle under the keelson.

We compress the spring and bring the sensor magnet to the siren, turn on the siren (the magnet blocks the operation of the generator), the system is ready for operation. When you try to move the boat, the sensor falls, the magnet moves away from the siren under the action of a spring, the reed switch closes, and the siren begins to scream very unpleasantly, and the tone of the sound emitted by the siren is specially selected to achieve maximum effect.

If an engine is installed on the boat, we install the sensor under the anti-cavitation plate; when trying to remove, lift the engine or move the boat, everything happens in the same way.

In conclusion, I would like to note once again, even if you have an alarm installed, never leave your boat on the shore overnight, because it takes thieves much less time to pull the boat onto the water than it takes you to wake up and run to the water.

When developing the alarm, the device http://www.zdravshop...products_id=783 was used

Best regards b58

Fedorych

Fedorych

• City of Pskov

For attaching the echo sounder sensor to a rubber inflatable boat without a transom

1 - appearance of the guard washer. There was only one available - with a depression in the center. They are also available with absolutely parallel edges. In any case, you have to grind the thickness down to 15 mm using sandpaper (with a file) in order to put the sensor “ears” on them.

2 - rail washer with a sensor installed on it. This is the first, not entirely successful option, when the washer was glued to the very bottom of the boat's cylinder (for clarity, the photo is upside down). The echo sounder worked quite well, but there was no convenience in installing/dismounting the sensor. Fixing the dachik is done by tightening it with either a wing nut or a knurled nut (this option is better!).

3 - design of a metal extension that allows you to glue the guard washer above the waterline and lift the sensor above the water (lower it into the water) for installation/dismantling.

4 - appearance of this option on the boat. I would like to emphasize that this is not a working version, but an illustrative one - to demonstrate essence. I quickly found suitable pieces of hardware. If your hands grow even slightly from the right place, all this is easy to do yourself.

Fedorych

Fedorych

• City of Pskov

Transporting a boat over short distances

The topic of transporting a boat from the car or parking lot to the water has been discussed more than once, everything here is quite clear, in most cases there is simply no alternative to wheels on the transom of the boat.

transporting a boat over short distances

Part one

The topic of transporting a boat from the car or parking lot to the water has been discussed more than once, everything here is quite clear, in most cases there is simply no alternative to wheels on the transom of the boat. In rare, very specific cases, it is possible to use a slip treller to transport a boat over short distances, for example, from a summer cottage to the water.

The purpose of writing this note is to try to understand when and how, in principle, such a concept as wheels on a transom appeared and how this problem is solved not only here, but also on a global scale. I hope this will be useful to developers and DIYers, of whom we fortunately still have plenty.

The first mention, accessible to me, of transom wheels for transporting a boat was found in the book “300 Tips on Boats, Boats and Motors,” edited by G.M. Novak 1973 edition.

As can be seen from the figure, practically nothing has changed in 34 years, and in principle it could not have changed, for example, a similar fastening design is still used Zodiac, and we have Badger(there is a suspicion that the manufacturer is the same). Moreover, as can be seen from the figure, the original purpose was wheels for a motor boat with a rigid hull, which is quite natural; in those days there were practically no inflatable boats with a transom. So the statements of some comrades about priority in this area are nothing more than a myth.

Currently, there are mainly three options for transom wheels on our market - wheels offered by the company Badger, wheels offered by companies Mnev, Poseidon And Corsair, as well as wheels from various small manufacturers and their interpretations.

The wheels from Badger are essentially similar to the wheels offered by the Zodiac company, at least they have the same manufacturer, an American company Weigh. The design is quite successful, has survived many generations of users, has several modifications for different weights of the boat and method of fastening. In the version on the left, the wheel can be tilted up when moving through the water; it is enough to rearrange just one pin. When assembling the boat, only the permanent bracket remains on the transom. The disadvantages are the straight wheel stand, which does not allow the use of this stand on boats with gussets on the transom, and the lack of a bracket for the echo sounder sensor.

Right option- probably the oldest of all, it doesn’t remind you of anything, that’s right, the very first drawing from the book “300 Tips...”. Fastening - using the lower clamp and a wing screw in the upper hole (a threaded bushing is installed in the transom). In the transport position, this rack is transported inside the cockpit, the wheel fastening is through the lower hole into the threaded bushing from inside the boat. Somewhat inconvenient, but the wheels take up virtually no space in the cockpit and do not wobble when moving. Material: aluminum alloy with special coating.

Wheels from the company Amphibalt, colloquially called Mnevsky. Probably the most comfortable wheels to use. Material – stainless steel. It can be moved to the working and transport position by simply pressing the spring-loaded latch. Suitable for any boats. The disadvantages are that they require assembly tools every time when assembling and disassembling the boat, and there is no provision for installing the echo sounder sensor bracket on a standard mount. The bracket permanently installed on the transom has a noticeable height and can damage the boat's cylinders during transportation, without additional protective equipment. But despite all these shortcomings - this model enjoys well-deserved popularity.

The last ones presented are wheels from homemade people. The assortment here is very large, from simple designs made in one or more copies, to popular designs with almost industrial production volumes. There are basically two common options for attaching wheels to the transom - using a permanently installed U-shaped bracket and using racks or threaded rods, also permanently installed on the transom. In essence, all options are nothing more than an interpretation of wheels on the transom from the company DAVIS, no matter what Vasily Rumyantsev claims, in common parlance - dV, defending his copyright. We must pay tribute, the design of the fastening from dV turned out to be very successful, with good repeatability and manufacturability. The main disadvantage is that it is impossible to install the wheels alone if there is no additional handle glued to the inside of the cylinder. Another small drawback is that due to the fairly large tolerances of the holes in the racks, when transporting the boat, the wheel racks dangle slightly and can damage the coating on the transom.

For example, here is another version of a similar principle of fastening racks, but with threaded rods. This option is just as easy to implement, but requires tools when assembling the boat and installing the wheels. The design turned out to be very reliable for transporting the boat from the car to the water, but it is absolutely not suitable when you need to use wheels in a camp remote from the base. A straight stand will interfere with the control of the boat, even if there are no gussets on the transom, and in my opinion, the threaded connection is not reliable under conditions of a long passage and inevitable vibration. The safety rail will not allow you to lose the fastening nut, and the stand with the wheel...

There are also many options using a U-shaped bracket. Despite some complexity in design and technology, this option, in my opinion, is more convenient to use. Installing the racks when assembling the boat does not require an assistant, which in itself is a plus. There may be several options for fixing the stand in different positions, from threaded connection on the left picture, to the side studs on the right. This option is also good because it allows you to use racks of a smaller cross-section.

All proposed mounting options have a significant advantage - as a rule, the developer also offers a bracket for mounting the echo sounder sensor. IN modern conditions This is a significant plus, more and more echo sounders are being used, but purchasing an additional universal bracket for the sensor can be very expensive, and installing it can be problematic, as the fastening elements of the wheels get in the way. The proposed brackets are very successful, have adjustment of the sensor position in depth and a very reasonable price, which is important. Their dimensions make it possible not to remove the sensor from the bracket each time, but to store and transport it assembled.

To sum up the first part, we can say with confidence that if you want to choose wheels for the transom, there is currently no problem, it all depends on the goal and task. There is also nothing difficult in making them yourself and the field for creativity is quite large.

Part two

In this part I will try to talk about how our foreign neighbors transport boats. It is mainly written for those who want to get acquainted with foreign experience and compare with domestic developments.

The first option is immediately very interesting for two reasons. Firstly, as a response from dV regarding the primacy of the use of curved racks, and secondly, as another option for mounting the rack.

Here the rack is inserted into a transom-mounted bracket from below or above. From the possibility of falling further, it is protected by a stop on the stand, and from the possibility of falling out - by a spring retainer. Below, on the transom, there is a buffer installed, a very smart solution, even if there is play in the post-bracket connection, which is inevitable, the transom will not be damaged and the boat will retain a quite decent appearance.

Option two. Carbon fiber transom wheels (left) and stainless steel wheels.

The mounting option itself did not seem particularly successful to me due to the dimensions of the bracket, but, in my opinion, the wheels here are not removable. The diameter of the wheel also seemed somewhat small, more suitable for a boat anchorage or equipped slipway than for a sandy beach. This wheel option (left) is supplied for boats Quick Silver.

Another option, for those who for some reason do not want to drill the transom. Transporting the boat - keel up.

So slowly but surely we got to the wheels from dV. The similarity is simply amazing, the difference is the fixing pin inside the pipe. Only, as you understand, the manufacturer is not in Zelenograd, but in England...

This option was specially chosen to be larger; it seemed to me the most universal.

The manufacturer indicates a maximum transportation speed of about 20 km/h. The highlight is that the wheels, when used on the road, are connected by a single axle and the racks are made of a springy material, which gives the boat suspension when moving. Naturally federal roads such movement is prohibited, but not everywhere they are federal...

Another interesting option. Fully cast bracket and wheel stand. The variant of the location of the wheel when tilting was solved in an original way. Unlike common options, the bracket is curved here, not the wheel stand. The wheels themselves are also impressive; the cross-country ability should be quite decent.

One last example slip trailer. They are still not very common in our country, but sometimes they can come in handy.

For example, at boat stations or if there is a house near the water. On such a trailer you can bring not only a light inflatable boat to the water, but also a solid RIB or a rigid body.

In conclusion I would like to note that this is only a brief overview of transom wheel options produced abroad.

Best regards, Alexander

Fedorych

Fedorych

• City of Pskov

Fishing with a lawnmower...

To slightly paraphrase a well-known expression, we can say, “those born to crawl cannot swim,” looking at the next attempt to adapt a lawn mower to a boat as a driving force.
The idea of ​​an ultra-light outboard motor for a small boat attracts many fishermen. A motor that could be an alternative electric motor with its high “fuel” consumption and heavy “fuel tanks”, and would also have the ability to move the boat in shallow water, is interesting for many. And, of course, the eyes of these people turn specifically to the lawn mower, or more precisely to the trimmer. We decided to think about this too...

Why a trimmer?
Lightweight, modern, low-drinking, with a built-in tank motor, with ready-made elements controls: gas handle, starter.
There is even a long “leg”, what else do you need?

All you need is a clamp to attach it to the transom of the boat and a screw. We must try!!! We take a ready-made clamp from the nearest construction store. Adapting is not a problem!
Then the screw... The screw...
That's it, the crisis begins here.

But we were lucky. It turns out that a craftsman from distant Australia has already created the missing piece of the motorcycle puzzle. We urgently order and “literally” within three months IT arrives! Here it is, in a box with a sparkling stainless steel miracle drive and, in addition, a bunch of adapters for flexible shaft trimmer.

The manufacturer stated that the adapters allow you not to think about choosing a specific trimmer model, so without any fuss we purchased a tool from the well-known SHTIL brand, inexpensive and beautiful with a motor power of 0.65 kW.

Assembling the unit is a separate matter. The flyer in the propulsion box promises “from lawn mower to outboard motor in about 2 minutes!” However, it took me about an hour to properly connect the attachment to the propeller and SHTIL.
Not everyone home handyman In stock there is a set of internal sprockets necessary to deploy the trimmer pipe, which also had to be trimmed...

But, in the end, the adapter did fit and allowed me to connect the propeller shaft and the trimmer shaft. Tightened the eccentric clamp. I screwed a clamp to the trimmer pipe, which, by the way, was included in the kit, ready! Tests tomorrow...

On the water, our inflatable kayak, with Trimmet installed on it, showed a speed of about 6.5 km/h, which corresponds to best performance electric motors tested on the same day. Control of the boat was mastered in five minutes; it didn’t work out faster because the motor needed time to warm up.

It’s simple: press the gas and go, let go and stop. The trimmer's 350 ml fuel tank provides an hour's power reserve at maximum speed. For comparison, the closest electric competitor will require a battery with a capacity of approximately 50 Ah to have such a reserve, and this is an additional, and quite considerable, weight.

At the same time, the propeller of the electric motor is practically not protected from underwater obstacles, which cannot be said about the Trimmet propeller with its powerful “armor”, which seems to be resistant to any stones.

Of the noted disadvantages, noise is perhaps the most basic. Also, in our version of the assembly, exhaust gases, when turning the engine, tended to “hit” the driver in the nose, although it is possible that with a more thorough selection of the trimmer this problem could have been avoided.

So the simple lawnmower set sail as an outboard motor. Perhaps others, more powerful ones, will soon join her.
We have already planned tests of an ultra-light planing lawn mower for the next season...

Information taken from badger.ru

• Yurets and alex-7 like this

Fedorych

Fedorych

• City of Pskov

Part 1 of a series of articles about PVC boats: “About PVC boats for fishing in detail”

Chassis

It’s rare that a fisherman these days doesn’t install folding, self-locking landing gear on his PVC boat - the device is extremely functional and useful. The chassis greatly simplifies the process of launching and lifting any PVC transom boat alone. The presence of the chassis allows you to fully equip it and install the motor on the shore, and then launch it into the water. Depending on the expected soil at the place where the boat is launched and the width of the transom board, such chassis can have one wheel on each rack or dual wheels. Similar to the nose strut of airplanes. Such reinforced chassis are usually installed on large boats that have a wide transom board. On small transoms, twin landing gears can interfere with the motor's ability to turn. The list includes, one might say, a traditional set of options for almost any Russian manufacturer PVC boats. But this list is far from exhaustive.

UKB and Targa

Many manufacturers, on whose boats cans are installed according to the “liktroslikpaz” principle, offer an interesting design for placing fishing rods or spinning rods, as well as navigation equipment. This design is called UKB (universal mounting block). Its basis is waterproof plywood with a cut groove of a complex profile that follows the contours of the cable wire. That is, we get the same principle of fastening? lyktros-lykpaz?. A glass holder for a spinning rod can be installed on a plywood block. Moreover, the position of the holder can be different: vertical or at an angle. Such a holder can be used for fishing on the track, and simply for transporting gear in a vertical position.

To develop the theme of spinning rod holders, a rather complex design can be proposed, having professional title Targa. It is a structure made of pipes (for these purposes, pipes made of aluminum alloys are used, but more often thin-walled stainless steel), with attached?glasses? - places where spinning rods are installed for transportation in a vertical position. Its installation can be done in different places boats. Some people mount it on the transom of PVC boats, which does not seem very convenient, especially when fishing.

There is an option to install the Targa in the midship area (in the middle of the boat).

It is worth recalling the possibility of installing downriggers on a PVC boat - a kind of winch that allows you to fish all horizons and all depths, up to several tens of meters, with any bait. To install a downrigger, a removable platform made of waterproof plywood. The principles of fastening this platform coincide with one of the types of fastening the transom on boats with an O-shaped cylinder.

Remote control

On large boats, especially if they are not disassembled during the season and are stored on the water or on a boat trailer, it is quite possible to install a remote motor control. In this case, the control station is mounted on a special console, to which all necessary communications are connected:

Remote engine start,

Motor rotation control,

Engine throttle reverse control,

Trim control (motor tilt angle).

As well as the necessary instruments: a tachometer, an on-board voltmeter and, possibly, a trim meter (it shows the angle of the engine). You can also install an echo sounder and navigator on the console. Depending on the design of the boat, several versions of such consoles have been developed.

Armchair

For the skipper who remotely controls the boat, any of the possible types of swivel chair can be installed on a special podium. Some designs are height adjustable. The main advantage of such a chair is its very ergonomic shape and excellent back support, which is extremely necessary when moving along waves and during long movements and trips. This design looks quite harmonious on large boats. It does not take up much space, leaving a passage on the left side. Looking at a similar design for large boats, I somehow thought, why, in fact, not equip a similar chair on small boats. They also move a lot, and the skipper also needs back support during long trips... There are several ways to attach such a chair to standard cans.

Moreover, diagrams of rotating mechanisms have already been developed on which chairs can be mounted on a bank. But there is one thing... such a chair has too large an amplitude and a swing angle back and forth when installed on a standard can, regardless of the method of attaching this can to the cylinder. And if on smooth water these swings are almost unnoticeable, then as soon as the waves clear up, sitting on such a chair begins to cause... mild anxiety, and then irritation.

The chair is comfortable, the idea of ​​a swivel mechanism is also good, but the fastening of the chair should be much more rigid. In the process of studying possible installation locations for the chair, we considered and implemented next idea. Provide a couple of points for fixing the chair on the cylinder and at least one, but dispersed point, on the floor or on the inflatable bottom (and it doesn’t even matter what pressure it will be, high or low). The design of the boat is such (I already mentioned this above) that when moving the boat constantly experiences deformations; the greater the wave and speed, the greater these deformations. From which it follows that it is impossible to rigidly connect any two elements of the boat with the frame (or stand) of the chair; these same deformations will either break the chair or tear the inflatable elements of the boat. Therefore, all connections must have a small degree of freedom.

It was these conditions that became decisive in the creation of the skipper’s reclining seat, about which in a little more detail. The podium or frame on which the chair rests was made of steel pipe, 25 mm in diameter and powder coated. The structure rests at two points on the sides, where it is fixed using additionally installed eyelets cast from PVC. Fastening to the side is carried out using a long M10 bolt with a self-locking nut, around the axis of which the structure can be folded onto the side.

The eyelets are spaced as far apart as possible to distribute the force across large surface and reducing the amplitude of chair swing.

The load acting on the ring when sitting in a chair is directed at a slightly downward angle. Therefore, even according to the most conservative estimates, it turned out that the strength of the eyelets themselves and the adhesive seam between them and the cylinder would be more than enough for the weight of the skipper well over 100 kg.

The lowest point of the structure will rest on the bottom. Since the movement of the boat along the waves can also be accompanied by flights into the air, this support point must also be fixed. However, the fixation cannot be rigid; this connection must be provided with a small degree of mobility. The simplest and most accessible would be to use two pairs of half-rings, which will be installed on the floor section with screws (or glued to the surface of the inflatable bottom) and a piece of sling.

To optimize cargo placement in the boat, the space under the seat can be used for the gas tank of the outboard motor. To do this, you need to install another half ring on the floor and use a longer sling. There are several different models of chairs on sale. I took an inexpensive marine-style chair based on the ease of seating and, most importantly, light weight.

The chair comes with only stainless steel fasteners; all other elements must be made by yourself. These chairs are designed by the manufacturer to fit commercially available pedestals and swivel mechanisms.

I have my own pedestal, but a more detailed examination of the rotating mechanism led me to understand the need to make it, but more reliable, durable and, most importantly, inexpensive and convenient for replacing worn parts.

It seems that one of the optimal solutions looks like this. The axis of the distributed bearing is a welded M12 screw with a fixing self-locking nut. And the load acting from above is evenly distributed over 6 points, which slide along the flat surface of the pedestal. They are made of caprolon and are a high washer. These washers, in turn, are attached to the chair with M8 screws.

The principle of operation and design are clearly visible in the attached photographs. Installing the chair on an inflated boat takes no more than 1–2 minutes. Disassembly is accordingly the same. You only need to unscrew 2 nuts and loosen the securing strap.

If someone decides to repeat the design for their boat, they should keep in mind that:

I specifically do not give the dimensions of the podium; for different diameters of the cylinders you need to select the height of the podium and everything is measured strictly locally;

The chair should be installed at some distance from the transom and should not interfere with the rotation of the motor (the tiller should not touch the chair);

- when installing the chair on a floorboard, edged aluminum profile, in order to avoid its possible damage, it is necessary to place some kind of damping material, for example a rest made of a PVC profile, under the lower support of the pedestal. And attach the support to both elements of the floorboard;

When the skipper is placed on such a chair, he appears to be slightly higher than on a standard canopy. If the design of the boat does not provide a handle to hold the skipper right hand, then it makes sense to add such a handle in order to increase safety;

To fasten the half rings to the solder structure, M4-M5 screws should be used.

And from the bottom of the floorplate, stick some kind of additional protection on top of the screws to avoid rubbing the keelson or the bottom with the screws. The author expresses gratitude for technical assistance in the preparation of materials to the St. Petersburg companies Poseidon, BC5 and Lotsman.

The concept of “tuning” means improvement, modification or modernization of a product. In this case, the modification of the PVC boat. Large-scale “tuning” of such boats costs a lot of money, especially since it involves improving the design or individual structural elements of the PVC boat.

The reason for modernizing the floating craft may be various factors. The first factor includes its imperfect appearance, associated with the purchase in “ancient” times, when few people thought about the perfection of the product. The second factor is very serious and is related to the financial side of the matter. People buy inexpensive things with the hope that they will improve them without spending a lot of money. In addition, modernization can be carried out gradually, which will not lead to immediate costs. At the same time, it should be remembered that during the revision process it is better to install only the necessary and useful elements, improving product characteristics. Although, everyone has the right to decide which innovations are suitable for a floating craft.

Many elements can be purchased and installed on the boat. You don’t have to make them yourself, especially since this process can take time.

The PVC fabric that serves as the bottom of the boat is quite durable, but it is inconvenient to move on. Since the bottom is not hard, every angler experiences a number of inconveniences. Therefore, strengthening the bottom is the primary task. In the future, the reinforcement will have to be repaired, but not the bottom of the boat. This will cost less, and it will be easier to replace the reinforcement with a new one or repair it. It is possible to carry out both full and partial reinforcement of the bottom of the boat.

The bottom is reinforced by gluing a special PVC tape, which is called a “fender bar”. The fender can have a thickness of 1.2-3 mm with a width of 60-235 mm. It is attached using 2-component glue. This will make the bottom harder and more protected from various underwater surprises.

Keel reinforcement

The operation boils down to gluing PVC tape (fender) over the factory tape. Similar reinforcement extends to the keelsons.

Strengthening cylinders

Reinforcement is carried out based on need. Cylinders are also subject to constant wear and tear.

Transom reinforcement

For this element of the boat, reinforcement is simply necessary, since the transom is protected by only one layer of PVC fabric.

So as not to suffer with separate elements, the bottom of the boat can be completely sealed using a fender. If you are careful and careful, and also choose the right glue, you can do the operation yourself. This approach will solve many problems associated with the deterioration of the boat’s performance.

Installation of stringers

If the boat has a hard floor, you will have to install duralumin profiles. Since the boat is deformed during movement, the hard floor pads touch the inflatable parts of the boat and a friction process occurs. This can lead to abrasion of the fabric, which is undesirable and can compromise the strength of the boat. In the bow, where the profile of the boat has a curved shape, stringers are not installed.

Self-attachment of the fender beam

Independent strengthening of a PVC boat consists of the following operations:

1. The boat is washed, after which all dirt is removed. After this, the boat is dried as thoroughly as possible. It should be remembered that the slightest traces of moisture will not allow the elements of the boat to be properly glued together.
2. The surfaces to be bonded are degreased with gasoline or acetone. Degreasing is carried out carefully so as not to disturb the fabric.
3. Using a brush, a layer of glue is applied to the surface. Typically the adhesive is applied to the boat and the fender. After 15 minutes, a second layer of glue is applied. The layers dry until the glue stops sticking to your hands.
4. The beam is placed on the surface and pressed.
5. To ensure that the surfaces stick securely, it is better to heat them with a hairdryer. Heating is carried out very carefully so that the plastic does not start to melt.
6. After this, the surfaces to be glued are again pressed with maximum force.

Transfers to the boat

Such elements make the boat more stable. Redans are PVC elements of various shapes.

Anchor

PVC boat anchor is required element, which allows installation anywhere in the water area. It is especially effective in the presence of a current, when the boat can move away from its intended place.

Spinning rod holders

A very useful accessory. Special fasteners can be purchased at the store. The best option for one – 2 fastenings, for two – 3 fastenings. Excessive fastenings can be a hindrance. Being in a ready state large quantity spinning rods are not advisable. If necessary, they can be pulled out of the tube at any time.

Alternatively, you can make rod holders yourself from PVC pipes. They can be easily purchased at hardware stores.

Transom

A transom is required for the motor. When buying a boat, a transom may or may not be included. It is advisable to install an echo sounder on the transom.

Anchor eye

It is installed at the stern of the boat and facilitates the process of lowering and raising the anchor. The roller is placed slightly lower to prevent abrasion of the fender.

Transom wheels

Whether to install them or not depends on the nature of the reservoir. Most bodies of water, especially wild ones, do not have conditions for normal boat launching. In such conditions you have to lower the boat by hand. This means there can be no talk of any transom wheels.

Inflatable keel

As a rule, simple boats are not equipped with a keel, which does not allow her to stay on course. If you install an inflatable keel on it, this will help solve the problem of boat stability, especially in the presence of waves.

The size of the keel depends on the length of the boat. If you install a keel on a boat that is less than 3 meters long, this will cause the bow of the boat to rise. This element is attached using special ribbons, which are included in the package.

Seats

Almost all models of such boats are equipped with hard seats, which is not very comfortable, since you have to sit in one place a lot. To make fishing a joy, it is better to replace the seats with soft ones or modify the old ones. Most boat owners build ice fishing style seats with a storage box underneath the seat.

Alternatively, you can design a movable seat that can be installed at any point.

Bag installation

The bag can be equipped under the seat or in the bow of the boat.

Outboard motor insurance

Fishing is an interesting, but also dangerous activity. Sometimes it's hard to predict what might happen while fishing. Quite often, when emergency situations intervene during the fishing process, the motor fails. As a result, the motor simply goes under water. To prevent this from happening, the motor is insured using a steel or artificial cable. It is attached to the transom through 2 eye rings. In other words, the motor is simply tied down.

Fuel tank mount

Elements such as an additional gasoline canister require mandatory fastening. This is necessary so that when moving or making sharp turns the canister cannot change its location. Fastening is carried out by means of a rope and half rings attached to the boat. They are attached to the boat as follows:

• half rings are glued to the bottom if it is made of PVC fabric;
• screwed to the floorboards with screws if the floor is hard.

Fasteners

All additional elements are attached to the PVC boat using two-component glue. There are several models of universal fastening systems. If you install it, then you can adapt any elements to it.

PVC boats are the most common type of fishing boat. In most cases, these boats are made from high-quality materials, but they are not always adapted to the needs of fishermen and different types of reservoirs. Fishermen have to bring their boats to perfection with their own hands.

What can you do with your own hands?

You can make almost everything in a PVC boat with your own hands except the boat itself - it takes too much space and time to work with large sheets PVC, patterns, adhesives, etc. All the rest are convenient and practical additions Any more or less “handy” fisherman can do this to a ready-made boat.

Strengthening the bottom

The bottom of a PVC boat is subject to the greatest wear and tear during operation. Therefore, immediately after purchase, without waiting for abrasions to form, it is necessary to carry out the following prevention:

• use special strips of PVC profiles (fenders) to glue the parts of the bottom most susceptible to abrasion - the keel of the vessel, the lower part of the cylinders, the junction of the bottom and cylinders, the transom;
• for boats that are used on rapids, reservoirs with rocky, snagged banks, it is necessary to glue the entire outer surface of the bottom between the keel and the cylinders, and the lower part of the cylinders;
• To glue the bottom, use PVC membrane fabric with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm, which is glued by heating it with a hairdryer and rolling it with a roller, without using glue.

All preventive measures to strengthen the bottom are carried out on inflated boats. Special attention It is necessary to pay attention to gluing the edges.

Transfers to the boat

Redan is, in fact, a profile with a pronounced guide, most often triangular in shape. Equipping a boat with redans only makes sense if it is necessary to increase the stability of the vessel on planing.

Equipping a boat with redans is combined with applying additional preventive measures to the keel of the boat and to the cylinders.

Anchor

There are a great variety of boat anchors. Often fishermen use the first piece of iron they come across as an anchor. suitable weight, some prefer collapsible models. General requirements:

1. Weight from 5 kilograms, depends on the strength of the wind and current at the fishing site, as well as the sail of the fishing vessel;
2. It is desirable that the anchor can be raised or lowered from the place from which the boat is controlled - from the steering wheel, motor, canister (seat) from which the oars are rowed.

It makes sense to equip boats with a length of more than three meters with an anchor eye and a roller, which provide the boat with greater safety in the place where the anchor cord rubs against it.

Spinning rod holder

Transom wheels

There are as many options for making transom wheels as there are anglers who take them on. self-production. The main purpose of such wheels is to transport a loaded vessel, often with a motor, from transport to water. To make wheels you will need:

1. Wheels - usually purchased separately or used are those that are available from some unnecessary devices (preferably inflatable, with a diameter of 300 mm, a width of 100 mm). The larger the diameter of the wheels, the less likely they are to get stuck in the ground.
2. The wheel hub must be connected to the wheel tightly.
3. The chassis is made from a piece of pipe, channel and other available materials.
4. The simplest mounting of the chassis to the transom consists of a metal plate with a piece of pipe welded to it, into which it fits freely, but without excessive play. upper part chassis.
5. Each chassis transom mount must have a minimum of four mounting points and clamping plates with inside transom, which will provide additional strength to the mount.
6. The chassis is secured to the fasteners in any available way - with bolts, studs, and may involve lifting the wheels to the “along the cylinders” position.

For boats with cylinders protruding far beyond the transom and with handles for carrying the boat on the stern parts of the cylinder, removable wheels are made that are mounted on the cylinders:

• from any available material(For example, plastic barrel suitable diameter) cut out “clamps” about 20 cm wide. The length of the clamps must be calculated so that they pass through the stern handle for carrying on a cylinder;
• wheels mounted on the platform are attached to the middle of the “yoke” with bolts or rivets;
• the clamp around the cylinder is secured in any available way - a fastener riveted to the ends of the “clamp”, bolts (like a water clamp), etc.

Transom wheels must be removable or foldable, since not all bodies of water have slopes convenient for using wheels

Inflatable keel

Not all inflatable boats have a keel. If only oars are used as propulsion, then the absence of a keel does not cause any big problems. If a motor is used, a keel is required. Keel purpose:

• ensuring stable keeping of the boat on course;
• preventing the ship's bow from being torn off water surface while driving with a motor.

Making an internal inflatable keel makes sense if the boat is not inflatable, flat bottom and the length of the boat is at least 3 meters:

• Glue a tube (70 - 100 mm in diameter) with a valve from boat material or a waterproof material of similar quality. The length of the pipe is determined by the distance from bow to stern;
• Point-glue the pipe inside the boat to the bottom at the keel with transverse PVC strips.

A mustard solution thrown inside the pipe and drained will give the product additional tightness. In shallow waters, you can deflate the keel and use a boat with a flat bottom.

Fuel tank mount

There are always things on the ship that it is advisable to secure. Those places where things will be fastened must be equipped with single or double half rings:

• glue the half rings to the sides and bottom if it is made of PVC;
• screw the half rings to the floor with bolts or screws if the floor of the boat is hard.

The gas tank is secured in the right place through half rings with a sling, belt or cord.

Seat

Most modern inflatable boats are equipped with seats that have a number of disadvantages:

1. Narrow and firm for long periods of sitting.
2. They don't have a back.
3. They freeze quickly in cold weather.
4. They cannot be rearranged within the vessel.

Fishermen have learned to correct all these shortcomings on their own:

• polypropylene insulation (tourist mat) is glued onto the seats - it doesn’t get cold, doesn’t get wet, it’s convenient to stick spinning lures in;
• install soft foam or inflatable pads on the seats;
• install additional folding removable movable backrests or chairs using various types clamps and other fasteners;
• swivel chairs are rigidly attached to a hard floor (payola);
• use air mattresses.

Outboard motor insurance

The easiest way to insure the motor is to tie it to securely fastened rings on the transom of the boat. A good option is a cable connecting the rings.

Bag installation

Accessory bags can be conveniently installed in the following locations:

• under the banks (seats);
• in the bow.

To secure bags, various basic boat fasteners are used, the number of which can easily be increased independently - PVC is one of the best materials for gluing.

After purchasing an inflatable PVC boat, the fisherman is forced to gradually modernize the vessel to suit his immediate needs. Some people spend additional money on upgrading their boat, while others enjoy their own creativity in improving the vessel. The main thing is not to overdo it in this matter - improvements should not interfere with comfortable fishing.

Any avid fisherman must have in his equipment good boat. Are being manufactured portable models made of PVC, and can be purchased at any specialized store. But as a rule, they are not very convenient, and in most cases they have to be modified, making some changes to the design to improve convenience and functionality.

PVC boat

Boats made of PVC material appeared on sale at the end of the twentieth century, successfully displacing rubber models from the counter, thanks to the possibility of their modernization and ease of use if necessary. Boats are made from five-layer fabric with reinforcement. Reinforcement means sewing into the material a light and durable frame made of synthetic fiber - cord.

When sewn into the boat hull, the frame is covered with several layers of PVC, protecting it from the effects of salt water, sunlight and flammable materials. A special adhesive composition is used to tightly bind the cord to the fabric.

At the end of the day, PVC boats are strong and difficult to damage, but they still need some tuning. Let's look at what can be done.

Boat tuning – obligation or necessity

Why is it necessary to remodel the boat? As a rule, there are quite primitive designs on sale that do not have additional equipment, or with such, but their quality will not be at the proper level. Therefore, for improvement design features her boats will have to be modified a little.

The most common types of tuning PVC boats

In most cases, after acquisition, the following work is carried out to improve functionality:

• bottom reinforcement;
• seat replacement;
• production of collapsible;
• installation of a safety system for an outboard motor;
• installation of an inflatable keel and .

Where to start tuning

First, it is recommended to strengthen the structure. Considering the strength of the frame, additional gain requires only the bottom of the boat and side cylinders. There are two ways to do this. Only after this will it be possible to talk about other modernization options.

Strengthening the bottom of the boat

Although they are made of fairly strong materials, wear cannot be avoided, and for this purpose special PVC profiles are used, glued to waterproof or without it.

This will increase the weight of the boat slightly, so this process should be done wisely, taking into account the following recommendations:

• reinforcement is simply necessary when using the boat in fast water with rocky rapids, in such conditions the risk of damage is highest.
• When using a boat on lakes and ponds with standing water, you can refrain from doing this.

Membrane reinforcement - a step-by-step process

• before starting work, the boat must first be washed, dried, removed all the smallest grains of sand and degreased with a solvent;
• then it is inflated to make patterns for cutting out the material, for this they turn it upside down and make necessary measurements from the keel to the cylinders;
• then the material is cut out using these measurements (it is recommended to prepare two identical strips) and left in the sun or in a warm place to take an even shape;
• then the boat is lowered, removing the valve and unhooking the transom wheels, and laying it on a level place;
• one strip is applied to the bottom, leveled along the entire length, and they begin to warm it up construction hairdryer, setting it to maximum mode, while simultaneously smoothing it with a roller to expel the air;
• Afterwards, the same manipulations are done with the second strip, placing it exactly on top of the first.

Important! Handle the strips with a roller especially carefully, trying to remove all air bubbles. If you leave at least one, then the material will subsequently come off or this place will be damaged by catching on a stone or snag.

The gluing process occurs by heating the membrane of the material by exposing it to high temperature. No glue is required.

Strengthening the cylinder with a halt

The second element required for additional protection is the cylinder, or rather the part that faces the water. There is no need to completely cover them with material. The work process is the same as when reinforcing the bottom: the cylinders are pre-cleaned, the air is released, measurements are taken and the material is glued.

Also, for reinforcement, rests are used - glued to the bottom of the cylinder. They are sold in specialized stores for specific models boats. You can purchase it for another model by pre-cutting it to the size of your boat.

In this case, the stops are glued on both sides of the bottom of the cylinders, as well as along the transom, additionally protecting the keelson.

The process of gluing

• as in the version with reinforced bottom, everything is cleaned and dried, but gluing, in this case, is done only on an inflated boat;
• then it needs to be treated with a solvent and left for some time to dry;
• After that, glue is applied to the stop and the cylinder, left for ten minutes and the material is applied to the bottom of the cylinder, after which you must also go over it with a roller to level and compact it.

Two outboard motor insurance options

The outboard motor is attached to the transom using screw clamps. With active driving or a slight clamping, it can come off, and given its cost, it is extremely undesirable to drown the engine.

There are two ways to attach:

• Cable insurance. Of the two options, this is the simplest option. As a rule, all motors have special eyes, and additional fastenings on the transom. If they are not there, then the transom can be drilled and a bolt-ring screwed into it, preferably made of stainless metal. The motor is secured with a cable with a carabiner and thimble. They're in wide range sold in specialized stores. You can also get by with a strong nylon rope or install two eye rings with cables on the outside of the deadwood. After fastening, the cable is tightened so that it does not interfere with the “reclining” and rotation of the motor.
• Fixing the suspension. The motors have several holes for rigid mounting to the transom. It is not recommended to completely fix it so as not to interfere with free control. Simply drill one hole in the transom and insert an M8 bolt into it. There is no need to tighten it, just tighten it by hand.

Installing a soft seat

Fishing while standing is not very convenient. You can buy a soft one in the store, but you need to know how to place it correctly, and again, the cost is an issue. You can install a homemade seat on the boat.

What you need for work:

• for this you will need two boards with a width of 50 cm and a length equal to the distance between the cylinders;
• two window hinges so that the structure folds;
• old car seat belts;
• sheet of foam rubber.

Seat manufacturing process:

• the boards are connected with loops on both sides to make something like a book;
• the belts are secured with self-tapping screws on each board also on both sides; the seat is installed on the boat, such a seat is secured by placing straps under the bottom and fixing them in a certain place where it is convenient, adjusting the direction of their location of the boat if necessary;
• The foam rubber can simply be placed on the seat, and if you need to remove it by placing a waterproof material (for example, leatherette) on top, you can secure it to the boards with self-tapping screws.

Here it is soft seat- simply and angrily.

Inflatable keel

The keel will give the boat stability and maneuverability.

Not all boats sold in stores are equipped with inflatable keels, and this is especially important detail for watercraft with a length of more than 3 meters and having a motor included. If it is not there, then during acceleration the bow of the boat will rise, and it may capsize.

It is a flattened tube with a valve. It is made from PVC boat fabric, it is rolled into a tube and glued waterproof glue"Moment".

To seal the end seams, before use, pour a solution of liquid mustard inside, shake well and pour out.

Such a keel is not located outside the boat, as is usually done, but inside. When moving, it presses the nose, improving maneuvering. As experts say, having made such a keel and installed it, the boat is easier to control, even easier than real keel specimens.

Collapsible boat anchor

Conventional sinkers used as anchors are not very convenient, they take up a lot of space, and they weigh quite a bit. Therefore, you can make a simple model of a homemade collapsible anchor.

What is needed for this:

• A stainless steel tube about 250 mm long and about 30 in diameter, on one side of which you need to weld a sleeve, about 25 mm with an M12 thread cut on it, and on the other side, a ring. This will be the stock.
• For the paws you will need stainless steel strips, 50 mm long, 250 mm wide and 4-5 mm thick. The edges are pre-treated with sandpaper.
• To prevent the anchor arms from twisting together when assembled, two metal strips need to be welded on one of them.
• Holes are drilled on each leg to match the thread size on the rod bushing. They will be put on it and tightened with a nut.
• So that you don’t have to use a wrench during the assembly process, weld a small metal bolt onto the rod mounting nut.
• Assembled total weight the finished anchor will be approximately 2-3 kg. To make it heavier, lead can be poured inside the rod.

Installation of transom wheels

This mechanism is no less important than, for example, an inflatable keel. If it is impossible to drive close to a body of water, the boat will have to be dragged, which can cause damage. Considering high cost Such products are available in stores, you can make them yourself.

Here you need to start from the sizes. For small boats one is enough; for two- or three-seater models it is better to install two wheels. They are made practically from scrap materials.

What you will need:

• plastic barrel;
• two wheels from an old cart;
• bolts for fastening;
• silicone

The manufacturing process is simple to the point of banality, and the entire time will take literally an hour:

• from the barrel we cut two strips in a circle with a width of 25-30 cm;
• cut them in the middle and make a couple of holes at the edges;
• the wheels are attached in the middle of the strip with bolts, which are then treated with silicone.

The wheels are ready. They are put on the cylinders at the back of the boat like a clamp. You can secure it with anything. Some fishermen adapt latches from old boxes, or you can simply tie them together with cords during transportation.

Additional boat tuning options

The most common options for upgrading PVC boats were listed above. In addition, there are still many opportunities to improve these watercraft.

Spinning arc

Tarka is what the fishermen call it. It is made in the form of a pipe with glasses attached to it for installing a spinning rod.

They place a spinning rod on the transom of the boat or in the midsection area, that is, in the middle.

Fuel tank mount

Any boat with a motor engine should have such a device. For this purpose, half rings are used, mounted to the transom from the inside so that they do not interfere with the installation of the engine itself. The tank is twisted with a cable through these rings. In addition to this, you can also secure other devices in the boat in this way.

That's basically all. Follow these tips, upgrade your boat and enjoy a pleasant vacation or fishing.