The device with automation on the ARDUINO controller. A miracle of technological progress - an automatic apparatus for moonshine

Moonshine successfully replaces store-bought strong alcohol, especially since with permission homemade alcohol (only for yourself!) the direction of industry has developed - manufacturing.

Manufacturers develop and create systems that provide the necessary strength and purity of alcohol. It remains only to follow the process. But this task will be taken over by automation for a moonshine still, if you purchase such a distillation device.

How moonshine is created, even non-professionals in the distilling business imagine:

• heats up in the distillation cube;
• when the boiling point of alcohol is reached (which is 78.4 ° C), it evaporates;
• vapors enter the coil into the cooler - a container with cold water, where heated water is scooped out and cold water is added, or in a refrigerator under running water, where it changes automatically. Here, the vapors condense and already flow out / drip into a substituted container as a liquid.

This is a schematic representation of the process, since modern moonshine equipment has “canopies” in its arsenal that allow you to get improved quality moonshine: dry steamers, strengthening, mash and distillation columns.

If earlier all this economy had to be tirelessly monitored, today electronics will take over this task.

Design and principle of operation

Machines have not yet learned how to control a gas stove by adding or reducing heat.

Advantages and disadvantages

The benefits of using such a device are many:

• full control of the processes occurring in the distillation cube and "sheds";
• correct selection of fractions, as a result of which, after the first distillation, moonshine is cleaner, freed to a large extent from fusel oils and other unnecessary impurities;
• operational safety;
• Opportunity to do other things while driving.

But there are also disadvantages:

• high cost of the device;
• expensive repairs in case of electronics failure.

Proper operation

It is worth recalling that when operating a conventional moonshine still, follow the rules, and if we are dealing with automation and electronics, even more so:

1. Read the instructions and follow them strictly.
2. Use only the original parts that come with the kit. There are cases when home craftsmen used a cord from a computer “because it fits”, and the matter ended in failure, because the computer was not originally designed for such loads.
3. Despite the automatic process, up to the automatic shutdown of the device at the end of the haul, do not leave it unattended, be at least nearby.

What is the automation like?

The automatic device includes a set of devices for a fully automatic mode: thermometers, sensors, valves, control system, etc.

But some of the automatic and electronic equipment already serves the benefit of the home distiller. Here are some of the devices that are automatic:

• TEN with a thermostat. It is not necessary to classify such an apparatus as automatic, but this simplifies the transfer, because the electronics maintain the set heating temperature.
• Thermometer. Without it, proper moonshine is already unthinkable. The best thermometer is electronic with a programming function. It will alert you with an audible signal when the temperature reaches head, body and tail selection levels.
• An electronic alcoholmeter that can make a "correction" for the temperature of the distillate. Indeed, for accurate readings, the fortress should be measured at 20 ° C. And it is impossible to achieve such a temperature in the jet flowing from the cooler.
• Liquid level sensor that will turn off the heating if the heating element is exposed.
• Breakaway valve. Automatically resets overpressure and will protect against an explosion if you are distracted from tracking the stage.

A matter of choice

There are not too many models of fully automatic moonshine stills for the home on our market yet. This is explained by the high cost and low confidence of the population in the reliability of “bells and whistles”, for which you have to pay a lot of money.

In addition, such devices, not knowing the brand, are not easy to find. Sellers offer either conventional devices with heating elements, or outright “mockery”.

Rating of the best slot machines

Since we have not seen detailed reviews on brands and models of automatic moonshine stills, and it is still impossible to call them high-demand goods, we offer the top three (in our opinion) developments:

1. Universal system "Grand" from the St. Petersburg company GreenAlco. Represents three installations: distillation; distillation; wort kettle with set temperatures, pauses, automatic built-in stirrer for grain mash and beer brewing. Characteristics:

• steam boiler for 37 or 65 liters;
• productivity in distillation mode - up to 6 l/h, in rectification mode - up to 3 l/h;
• wort boiling and distillation are automated, including separation into fractions. You set the parameter and substitute the containers, you don’t need to control anything else;
• equipped with automatic pressure relief valve;
• price - from 80 thousand rubles.

1. Alcohol machine KV-3, designed and manufactured in Podolsk, Moscow region. Interesting development, can be exploited as:

• multicooker (all functions except frying);
• alcohol vending machine with air cooling;
• incubator for mash heated up to 35°С.

The device is patented as an invention. It is made of stainless steel in two sizes - with a boiler (or cube) for 14 and 36 liters. Works from the mains. With its help, alcohol-distillate is produced with a strength of 80 to 96 °. The cost is 18,500 rubles and 39,000 rubles, depending on the size of the container.

1. Copper mini-distillery "Optimal" SIMPL-2018 from Doctor Guber. It is a steam-water boiler for 40, 60 or 80 liters with a full-fledged distillation column and full automation - they filled in the raw materials, set the parameters, put three containers on the heads, body and tails. The device will do everything itself, and at the end of the run it will turn off. Equipped with:

• automatic control parameters: temperature - shirt closure; in a column; in the tank and at which the unit is switched off;
• valves for the selection of heads and tails;
• valves on the shirt and water supply to the refrigerator;
• safety sensor in the refrigerator. If the water supply suddenly stops, the device turns off.

The apparatus would be good for everyone, and obtaining pure 96-degree alcohol is tempting, but the price is “off the charts” - 242 thousand 250 rubles.

In the age of the Internet, you can easily order moonshine from China. Although not always what you get will serve you for a long time and reliably, but the enterprising Chinese have already “cut the chip” and offer such devices. They are arranged like multicookers, and even the control panel resembles this home assistant.

Today, moonshine is made of excellent quality, without the presence of fusel oils and bad smell, on its basis, elite brands of spirits are produced: rum, whiskey, brandy. The main task of the moonshiner is to constantly control the temperature and the entire process, but the automatic moonshine still simplifies production because it works offline.

Users who are interested in home production High Quality alcohol-containing products, can find a lot of interesting things in this article and significantly expand their horizons in the field of home distillation of moonshine, pure as a baby's tear.

The technology is quite simple and has not undergone drastic changes over many centuries of use, only improvements, according to technological progress. Modern devices operate according to a previously developed system, and the whole process can be represented as separate stages:

1. Braga is poured into the container, and then it is installed on a gas or electric stove. Manufacturers specifically for these purposes produce light and powerful tiles, even of the induction type.
2. We collect the entire structure of the apparatus.
3. Turn on the heating device.
4. Upon reaching +78°C, alcohol vapors begin to move along the structure.
5. Passing through the serpentine, which is located in running water the vapors condense.
6. Alcohol-containing liquid is directed by gravity into a substituted container.

The task of the user is to monitor the tightness of the entire system so that steam does not leak. If tightening the cover fasteners does not eliminate the leak, turn off the heater immediately. After waiting for the boiling to stop, it is necessary to open the lid and find out the reasons for the depressurization. After troubleshooting, repeat the entire process.

Design

Computer-controlled devices are very rare and differ from ordinary products only in the presence of a control unit, the main design has remained unchanged:

1. The distillation cube is made of durable metal, some devices have a heating element built into this vessel to facilitate heating control. Top Models are made of AISI 304 food grade stainless steel, as it is neutral to alcohol vapors.
2. Thermometer: its main purpose is to show the temperature inside the container, without this little helper you will not be able to control the boiling process. The electronic control unit in the automatic analogue captures temperature changes constantly.
3. Connecting tubes. Through them, alcohol vapors are sent to the dephlegmator.
4. Sukhoparnik or dephlegmator - it performs an important mission of intermediate purification of vapors from fusel oils and other impurities that adversely affect the quality of the final product. It can be used as a flavoring agent for future moonshine; for this, fresh zest from an orange or lemon is put into it during assembly.
5. Fridge. Here, vapors condense into an alcohol-containing liquid; they can be of several types.

If the machine is equipped with a refrigerator flow type, then the heated fluid cools running water- another type can use a container with cold water, through which hot moonshine is driven through the tube.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of automatic devices include:

• vertical refrigerator;
• long operation, subject to high-quality manufacturing;
• pretty simple usage.
• Wide mouth for easy cleaning.

There are disadvantages, but mostly of a constructive nature:

• thin walls and bottom of the main tank;
• some models cannot be heated on induction cookers;
• water connection hoses are not included in the kit;
• low performance.

If the device is equipped with a heating element, then the user receives an additional headache: Descaling must be done periodically, and replacement in case of burnout will be very expensive.
The principle of combination can be applied to moonshine stills: the more components in the product, the more difficult the operation and the higher the cost of repairs. Therefore, when choosing a model, these factors should be taken into account.

Operation features

Many users think that by buying a moonshine still with automatics, they got rid of the hassle, but this is not a home-made alcohol harvester - the process must be controlled. Automation cannot cut off unnecessary fractions, the so-called "heads" and "tails", turn off after the end of the process - these stages must be controlled independently.
It is not necessary to constantly monitor the process - it is enough to cut off the first fractions and go about your business, you just need to know the time when the main distillation ends in order to cut off the “tails” in time. Automation strictly monitors all other processes. The conclusion is this: experienced distillers need automatic moonshine stills, and beginners should “get their hands on it” on simple equipment.

How to choose

In order to choose the right modern moonshine still, you need to understand its functional purpose, because there are such designs on sale:

1. Classic style distiller. It consists of two parts: a distillation cube and a refrigerator or coil. This design is in great demand, especially in rural areas.
2. With the presence of a sukhoparnik - an intermediate container between the distillation cube and the refrigerator.
3. Alambik - a copper distiller for the production of cognac and whiskey traditional technologies, It has upper part distillation vessel in the form of a dome. An excellent copy for a gift to a person who is a passionate fan and connoisseur of elite varieties of alcohol.
4. A beer column is a product in which the cooling module is made in the form vertical pipe ending with a dephlegmator. It is used for the production of not only moonshine, but also noble home-made drinks, for example, chacha from grapes, retains the aroma of the distillation product.
5. Column for rectification - vertical design with mass transfer nozzles for separation into fractions.

Now we need to decide on the internal volume of the distillation cube. It is filled only by 75-80%: for example, with a total capacity of 15 liters, only 12 liters of mash are poured so that when boiling, the excess does not fall into the filtration zone.

The performance of the apparatus is expressed in liters per hour of operation, but you should ask about the maximum possible volume of the cube, the temperature of maximum heating and the intensity of cooling. When buying a column, keep in mind that its height is usually a little over a meter, so you need to take into account the height of the ceiling in your house or the room where you plan to use the device.

Manufacturers today use stainless steel and copper for the production of moonshine stills, so the price is much higher than handicraft analogues, which are made from thick-walled aluminum. The presence of electronic control units simplifies the process, but complicates maintenance: if one controller breaks, the entire device will not function and costly repairs will be required.

Rating of the best models

Moonshine still Phoenix Economy 10 liters

• Body material: AISI 430 steel
• Productivity: 3 l/h
• Volume of alembic: 10 l
• Thickness: walls - 1.0 mm, bottom - 1.5 mm
• Neck diameter: 110 mm
• Dimensions: 230x230x490 mm
• Weight: 4.5 kg
• Product strength: up to 70%
• Warranty: 12 months

• high performance
• you can distill fruit mash
• refrigerator 5 turns fast cooling
• heating on any stove

• not found

Moonshine still MAGARYCH Premium BKDR 20

• All parts are made of food grade stainless steel.
• Productivity: 1.4-2.0 l/h
• Distillation tank volume: 20 l
• Wall thickness: 1 mm
• Neck diameter: 80 mm
• Dimensions: 270x270x655 mm
• Weight: 4.2 kg
• Moonshine strength: up to 70%
• Service life: at least 5 years

• high build quality
• reliability of materials and design
• improved appearance
• full set

• poor performance.

Moonshine still Pervach Econom 12

• Body material: steel 08X18H10T
• Productivity: up to 2.0 l/h
• Volume of alembic: 12 l
• Tank walls 1 mm thick
• Neck diameter: 40 mm
• Dimensions: 230x230x380 mm
• Weight: 3.35 kg
• Warranty: 1 year, unlimited life

• high reliability
• quality-price ratio
• simple use

• small neck size

Budget class device with normal performance and high reliability all materials. Pretty compact so you can store it anywhere.

At one fine moment, there was a desire to have a moonshine still (entirely correct phrase). No sooner said than done...but not so fast. A review of stores for the purchase of a finished device showed that prices are high, and after understanding what I needed, it became completely clear that without " hand made", or as they say "collective farm" to achieve the desired characteristics is expensive.

Wanted the following:

1. A small distillation cube (there are no utility rooms - an apartment, nor a goal to drive 10 liters at a time)
2. Opening steamer (for aromatization)
3. Good cooling
4. Heating by heating element with automatic equipment.

The price factor played decisive role and the search for parts began. At first, as they say on many sites, of course I decided to buy a pressure cooker. The thing is good, but 9 liters is not enough, unrealistic for high prices. In addition, it turned out that a lot of pressure cookers, which are positioned in online stores as stainless steel, are actually aluminum with a stainless steel lid. Those that are completely made of stainless steel have thin walls (and there was originally an idea to embed a heating element) and for this reason did not fit. The toad choked unrealistically, but in the end it was accepted in my opinion the only correct solution- buy a cube for a moonshine still.
Therefore, it was purchased alembic for 10 liters (optimal for me), 3 fittings for 1/2 inch, silicone and pvc hoses with a diameter of 10 8 mm. and a 24-turn spiral cooler.

All this cost 4500-5000 rur, well, plus another heating element - 300 rur. I decided to do everything in the concept of GLASS-STAINLESS-SILICONE.
With silicone gaskets right size and strained the configurations, besides, it took a lot of them, so it was still torn apart Silicone molds for baking in the oven, but it's cheaper than looking for the right pads and incomparable in time.
Here is a photo of what happened, only the automation acquired another screen, as it greatly expands the possibilities.

Initially, everything was conceived a little differently. There was already another refrigerator in stock and the layout was slightly different:

After the first launch of the prototype and the release of the device to the operating mode, it became clear that:

1. The refrigerator does not do its job well.
2. fittings etch through the thread, even with silicone gaskets

When steam, by the way, climbs out of the refrigerator, but it does not cope with cooling - a terrible thing.))) You could only squat in the bathroom. If you stand up, a veil of alcohol vapor covers ... and the smell was everywhere ... I don’t know how they didn’t kick me out of the house))). The first distillation straightened my brains and all the "leaks" were eliminated. Fittings from the outside shook fom-tape. By the way, about the use of brass parts in a moonshine still, note as a reason to google and read: you can cover them with a layer of copper at home, this is not particularly difficult and the process itself is not expensive.

After that, a 24-turn spiral cooler was urgently purchased (as large as possible), washers were bored into the fittings and wrapped with a thread on the outside for sealing for plumbing work and tightened with terrible force. At the bottom of the refrigerator there is a ground-in vacuum cone. The seller repeated several times that he was under vacuum (I probably immediately seemed to him a moonshiner and he understood where I want to put this cone), but what do we need?))) ... we take silicone and fix this cone - the result is required))) .
Based on the experience gained (again, out of fear and for reinsurance), I made an additional refrigerator (this is on which the collection jar hangs), the idea is this: even if something gaseous is at the outlet of the refrigerator, then going down the pipe into the jar, he it will be necessary to get even upstairs, which is really vryatli))). In practice, this was confirmed and to my satisfaction there is no smell at all, the complete absence of the smell of the product. Currently I use this device only for fractional second distillation. At the first distillation, after cutting off the heads, I change the steamer, put in a three-liter jar, turn on the automatic mode and you can relax until it starts to squeak. The program itself adds power and turns off the heating at 98 degrees - the stink goes further. The purchased 24-turn refrigerator can easily cope with the cooling of steam from a kilowatt heating element, even when it works constantly, while the consumption of cold water is small. The top of the refrigerator is hot, the moonshine coming out after the passage of the spiral is cooled to 18 ° C.

Water connection to the device:

A broken watering can lay under the bathtub for a long time, until her turn came. Water is connected quickly and without leaks. Unscrew the watering can and screw on the hose - 5 sec.

The design of the apparatus itself is now well established and has proven its vitality and performance. The design will be improvements, but minor.

Time passes, the device worked and works well, but in the end, it is extremely tedious to assemble and disassemble the device, all these tubes, connect here, attach here ... it was decided to buy. No sooner said than done.

To prepare quality alcoholic drink independently, you need to carefully select raw materials and devote a lot of time technological process. Moonshine stills simplify this task - their design provides everything necessary to ensure the natural course of fermentation processes and competent disposal of production waste.

Design

By design, moonshine stills are divided into integral and collapsible. Collapsible is easier to maintain, each part can be cleaned separately and replaced if necessary. Integral devices are usually equipped with automation, which complicates their operation - if one part stops working, the device can completely fail. In addition, it is more difficult to clean inside.

Types of moonshine stills

Household moonshine stills are divided into several types: distillers are designed to make drinks based on mash, rectifiers are used to separate liquids from each other with different temperatures boiling and produce pure alcohol, which can then be used in everyday life, and universal distillation systems can make mash and beer.

A distiller is a distillation cube, into which the finished liquid that has passed the fermentation process is poured, and a cooling coil, where the steam obtained by heating the mash in the distillation cube enters. The steam is then condensed and discharged as a liquid through a faucet or valve. Some models of distillers are equipped with a thermometer and dryer, which help to obtain a better homogeneous alcohol. The thermometer shows the temperature of the heating of the liquid - so you can track the moment of formation harmful substances in the evaporator. Heavy substances settle in the steamer, spoiling the taste and aroma of the finished drink: fusel oils, methyl alcohol and aldehyde.

The rectifier is a vertical vessel with internal heat exchange devices. When the liquid inside is heated, it is divided into fractions, the lightest ones rise up, and the heavy ones settle at the bottom. So you can isolate pure alcohol or get good alcohol from diluted with cheap impurities.

The universal distillation system combines both of these devices. The kit includes various nozzles with which you can assemble a distiller or rectifier.

Product types

At home, you can prepare many drinks from the alcoholic assortment of supermarkets or invent your own by adding spices and flavors during the cooking process.

To get moonshine with a rich aroma, you need to put herbs or berries in the steamer of the distiller.

For the preparation of cognac or whiskey, alambik distillers are used; they differ from conventional devices in the shape of a dome and copper bodies. In addition, raw alcohol can be made in the distiller, so that later it can be used as the basis for other more complex drinks.

Beer columns (they are distillers with a reflux condenser) allow you to process pure alcohol into strong alcohol. The net yield of the drink is about 35% of the total volume of raw materials. A more complex distillation column in the device is able to separate alcohol from impurities, leaving almost no waste. But you can’t make aromatic drinks in it, since the smell is lost in the process of deep rectification. In the rectifier, you can make cognac, whiskey, Calvados and other high quality distillates using raw.

The distillation system can be used both as a distiller and as a rectifier by connecting or disconnecting various mechanisms. This device is recommended for experienced distillers who plan to prepare not only homemade mash, but also cognac or rum.

Features of choice

Any cube can be filled with mash no more than 80%. Therefore, if you take a distiller for 20 liters, you need to expect that only 16 liters can be used, the rest of the space is reserved for steam. It is necessary to determine in advance in what volumes it is planned to prepare drinks.

The power of the cooler should correspond to the volume - the larger the device, the more powerful it is. With insufficient power, the quality of the produced drink deteriorates. All connections of the elements must be tightly soldered to each other. The electrical device must have a sensor emergency shutdown nutrition.

Manufacturing materials

Most inexpensive moonshine stills are made of stainless steel or aluminum. The latter are already a thing of the past, since aluminum releases substances into alcohol that affect taste and color. More expensive models for the production of elite drinks are made of copper. In devices with a glass case, you can observe the process of preparing drinks.

Reference article based on the expertise of the author.

RusakovMxL 17 July 2015 at 13:12

Concept: moonshine - full automatic

• DIY or DIY

Under full automatic understood: You came, poured the mash, closed the tank, opened the valve on the gas cylinder, put the cans in the right places under different products forcing, pressed the button and left. They came after a certain time (the time depends on the capacity of the tank), everything was poured into containers, the waste products were poured into the sewer, refilled, etc.

The concept means that the system is under development, but has a complete structural idea, and does not claim that it works 100%. In fact, when you really start to assemble a device, somewhere something will definitely fail: either the driver will not work, or the temperature is incorrectly calculated. Therefore, the concept is also a concept in Africa.

As for the operation algorithm, it is working according to the temperatures of the setters. The algorithm is taken from other sources and forums. It was collected bit by bit. The time intervals are taken with a margin and depend on the volume of the distillation cube. My cube is planned for 20-25 liters. For a cube with a volume of 5 liters (from a pressure cooker), of course, the time intervals will be different, obviously smaller.

Operating mode of the ACM1602K liquid crystal indicator and the program execution time by the microcontroller. Algorithm

1. t is the temperature of the upper sensor;
2. tn - temperature of the lower sensor;
3. The word Mode can be in the following options: Prvach, Sam, Boost, Cool, End, Gas (the maximum length of an understandable word is 5 letters, there are no vowels in the words - this is not a mistake!)
Prvach - a mode in which rapid heating and pasture of the primary is carried out.
Sam - the mode in which the main product is pastured.
Dozhim - distillation of the last fractions with fusel oil and all sorts of rubbish.
Cool - tank cooldown mode. The nozzles are closed. Fan pump is running.
End - end mode after cooldown (may not be, if you insert a relay to turn off the power supply of the entire system - PS-ON - shorting the green wire to black in the ATX power supply).
Gas - power hold mode and turn off everything else when the gas comes to an end. When the temperature of the upper (and maybe lower) sensor has never reached beyond set time up to the limit temperature. Or by the number of operations according to the condition of exceeding the temperature by the lower and upper sensors. I don't know, you have to experiment.
4. Instead of the note icon on the LCD, there is a bell sign.
5. T 000:00 countdown timer according to the set mode. Minutes: Seconds.
6. Arabic sign - a signal to turn on the piezo ignition. I didn’t find such a symbol in the Word, but so, it is supposed to insert the sign of the liquid crystal indicator under the number SS in the layout (in my opinion, it is most similar to the piezo ignition of those icons that were in the standard firmware of the liquid crystal indicator):

7. * - exhaust fan is on.

Every second, the LCD screen switches to another to display different service information about the status of the nozzles, the water pump and the mode in which the three-position valve is located.

1. Nozzle 1, 2: 1 or 2 lights up when the specified gas nozzle is turned on;
2. Pump: lights up on the indicator when turned on circulation pump refrigerator cooling;
3. Separator: We press. Indicates the state in which the three-position valve is operating from washing machine for separating the distillation product. Possible modes: Prvach, Sam, Boost, Off.

The position of the valve depends directly on the mode in which the controller is located.

Enlarged controller operation algorithm

Prvach mode

• Primary Mode It lasts 1 hour, or rather 60 minutes. 00 seconds.
• It is characterized by the fastest heating mode of the working tank.
• Nozzle 1 and 2 open alternately (to avoid overheating) after 2-3 seconds. Nozzles need to be well blown.
• The three-position valve of the washing machine is open in the "Prvach" mode.
• The pump is on.
• The fan is on. The LCD displays an * sign to indicate that the fan is on.
• Every 2 seconds the automatic piezo ignition is switched on. The ignition sign is displayed on the LCD screen (lower right) with any symbol that you understand.
• The word "Pump" is lit on the LCD indicator. Numbers 1, 2 blink alternately, depending on which nozzle is currently open.
• Upper temperature sensor set point: 60 degrees Celsius.
• The setting of the lower temperature sensor at the level: 78 degrees.
• If the level of the lower or upper temperature setpoints is exceeded, the gas nozzles switch to the “Wick” mode (the nozzles open alternately by 0.2 seconds for one second, that is, they almost do not let gas through to heat the boiler).
• After a time of 60 minutes, the controller switches to the "Sam" mode - the pasture of the main product.
• If during the time of the “Privacy” mode the temperature setpoints were not exceeded even once, the controller switches to the “Gas” mode.

Gas mode

• Gas protection mode. It is characterized by the case when the gas in the cylinder runs out. The flame barely burns and is not able to heat the tank to the desired temperature. If the temperature setpoint for the upper or lower temperature sensors has not been exceeded within the specified time, the controller switches to this mode.
• In this mode, the nozzles are closed.
• The timer on the main screen stops.
• The water pump turns off when the lower temperature control reaches below 40 degrees (maybe even turn off immediately, who knows how much the cube costs).
• The separation valve closes together with the water pump. The first minutes it works in the "Prvach" mode.
• The LCD screen does not go out and displays everything as usual, but in the "Gas" mode. That is, the PS-ON relay does not turn off the main power supply.
• The fan continues to thresh - this is in case there is no gas left at all, but it flickered a little and constantly went out on its own. The * icon is displayed on the LCD screen.
• It is necessary to provide that the screen also displays in which mode the controller entered the Gas mode. If from the “Boost” mode, for example, distillation is no longer needed. If from "Prvach" - you need to kick it out again, after changing the cylinder. You can display the previous mode in the field where the countdown timer was running.

Sam Mode

• The mode of pasture of the main product.
• Upper temperature target: 84 degrees.
• Lower temperature dial: 93-95 degrees.
• The three-position valve switches to "Sam" mode on a large can of product.
• The pump is on.
• The fan is on.
• Relay PSU PS-ON - enabled. Self-pickup can be done and break the second relay at the right time.
• Exposure time in this mode: 3 hours (180 minutes 00 seconds).
• If the setpoint temperature is exceeded, the nozzles switch to the "wick" mode.
• If after the expiration of time the temperature has not been reached or has fallen below a certain temperature, say, 60 degrees, the controller switches to the "Gas" mode.
• If the time has elapsed and the temperature of the upper (or lower) setpoint has been exceeded, the controller switches to the Boost mode.

Boost mode

• The mode of knocking out the last remaining alcohol in the mash. There, a 15-30% solution of alcohol with water can still be obtained (such a smelly burda).
• Temperature setting: upper temperature sensor - 96 degrees Celsius.
• Lower temperature sensor: 100-102 degrees.
• Process duration: 90 minutes.
• Nozzles 1, 2 - in operation, as usual, alternately.
• Electric ignition in operation as usual.
• The PS-ON switch is on.
• Water pump in operation.
• Fan at work.
• If in the "Boost" mode for the set time any of the temperatures did not reach the threshold of 96 or 102 degrees (or the temperature reached the lower threshold of 90 degrees), the controller switches to the "Gas" mode, remembering the current mode.
• If everything is in order, then after the time has elapsed, the controller switches to the “Cool” mode.

Cool mode

• The mode of cooling and cooling down the tank and the entire system.
• In this mode, the temperature is controlled by the lower and upper sensors. As soon as the temperature on the lower sensor drops below 40 degrees, the controller switches to the "End" mode.
• Electric ignition is off.
• The three position valve is open in Boost mode.
• Fan at work.
• The pump is at work.
• PS-ON relay enabled.
• The nozzles are closed.

End Mode

• Standby in a couple of minutes. After that, everything will be extinguished and stopped. You can hang an audible signaling device on one leg of the controller to let you know that everything is ready.
• The nozzles are closed.
• The fan stops.
• The pump stops.
• The three-position valve goes into "Off" mode, i.e. all valves are closed.
• Electric ignition off.
• After 2 minutes, a command to turn off is given to the relay that controls the PS-ON relay. The relay opens, turning off the power supply. The controller turns off.

Controlled Devices

• Nozzle 1. Power supply 12 V.
• Nozzle 2. Power supply 12 V.
• Exhaust fan. Power supply 220 V.
• Circulation pump. Power supply 220 V.
• Three-position valve from the washing machine:
• Valve 1. Primary Power supply 220 V.
• Valve 2. Sam. Power supply 220 V.
• Valve 3. We press. Power supply 220 V.
• Electric ignition. Power supply 220 V.
• PS-ON relay for PC PSU with self-retaining. Power supply 12 V.
• Relay opening PS-ON relay from the microcontroller. Power supply 12 V.

Structural diagram of the control system

Briefly about each of the block diagram devices

1. The most expensive, perhaps, will be here Nozzles 1, 2(double). These are devices from the gas-balloon equipment of a car. Fast acting. Opening time - somewhere around 3 ms. I do not remember exactly. But I needed speed in another device. In parallel, for welding stainless steel, I made a universal Argon-Carbon Dioxide mixer, and there it was necessary to measure the exact proportions of the mixture. Therefore, I bought a set of four injectors. Each nozzle is powered by 12 volts, the current consumes 3 or 4 amperes.

It’s not that I wanted to insert an unsurpassed gas switching speed here, I just found some used cheap injectors on Avito. For 2 doubles I gave 1200 rubles + shipping. As it later turned out, the injectors heat up from prolonged switching on, and in ten to twenty seconds they seriously heat up. Therefore, it makes sense to install them opposite the blowing fan of the power supply from the computer, so that they are normally blown. Well, and also make the switching mode such that the nozzle does not work for a long time, and the second one replaces it. Mode, how to call it - "tick-tock" Half the time for one nozzle, half the time for the other. Then, I think, the mode of operation will not be so tough.

It was suggested to me that the injectors should not warm up and be retrofitted with a special scheme:

Here are the words of an expert on this subject (no change):
“The bottom line is that EM valves have parameters such as actuation voltage and holding voltage.
So, if all 12v are needed for operation, then after operation, 5 or even 3 may be enough to keep the valve open.
Accordingly, there will be much less heating.
In the simplest version, this can be achieved according to the diagram in the picture above.
At the moment of switching on, there is a current pulse of the capacitor charging, then the current is limited by a resistor (it’s easy to set up - first, find the holding voltage on an adjustable PSU, then connect only the resistor - select the resistance so that this voltage is on the coil (not forgetting the power dissipation), then pick up capacity for reliable operation).
Or you can switch the controller after operation to additional. source with the correct voltage.

In fact, you can put more cheap option from China. Here, the opening speed is not so important, so even this option is suitable, but I think it will also get warm (you will also have to equip it with the scheme above):

2. Exhaust fan
In fact - a household hood. If combined with a radiator, it will combine two functions: reduce the temperature of the coolant and remove gas combustion products, the smell of fuselage (or, if the gas is extinguished, then remove gas from the room - a protective function). It is not necessary to blow through the radiator, especially if the unit is located in a garage with a basement. The radiator can be lowered into the basement, or completely excluded, and a flow pipe buried in the basement. You can lower the radiator into a large container of water ... There are many options. You can do without water circulation, but the water is no longer state-owned. Counters, probably, have already been installed in all houses. Yes, and if there are interruptions in water, the stench will be on the entire entrance.

3. Mechanical pressure relief valve

Protective device. Simple as 5 kopecks: a valve, a powerful spring. The pressure rises - the spring is wrung out, the valve opens. Only such valves are designed to release pressure in 6-9 atomospheres, so it had to be redone. Untwisted. I installed the spring from an ordinary fountain pen, and threw the factory one away. The pressure in the tank should not be too high. In addition, the chemical refrigerator is made of quartz glass. The glass will break from the pressure.

4. Chemical refrigerator (Allina ball refrigerator)
Ball is better than a conventional coil. The ball cooler relieves pressure due to multiple expansions and contractions, as a result, at the outlet, a stream of distillation product does not fly out and does not siphon, but flows out neatly. You can also use an ordinary coil, but it is slightly worse.

It is better if in the refrigerator only the central part is made of glass, and the casing is made of plastic. So it is more reliable, and it is easier to find. In reality, it is more difficult to get a chemical refrigerator than Belarusian plastic with glass.

5. Separator
Valve from the washing machine for 3 outlets 3W180.

I found one, but did not check for a long inclusion. Perhaps it will also warm up, like the nozzles. Probably, you will have to blow additionally, because the valve will be constantly open. The meaning is this: we supply liquid from the refrigerator to the valve inlet, and depending on the distillation stage, we direct it to the desired jar. If there is pervach, we open one valve, if the main product is coming, we open another valve, if we squeeze out the last alcohol with fusel, we open the last valve at the end. When the process ends, close all valves. Silicone tubes must be attached to the fittings and sent to the desired container. A larger container is needed for the main product.

During the discussion of the project, it turned out that a valve of this design is not the best the best way for separating distillation products. It is designed to work under pressure. If the valve opens, it will open, but it is not clear whether it will close without pressure. We must check. In addition, rubber gaskets are installed in the valve, which, when in contact with distillation products, can add additional “taste” to the product.
What to put instead of this valve has not yet decided. Perhaps some kind of three-position valve based on a stepper motor is needed. But, the valve should not contain metals containing harmful impurities (zinc, lead) and harmful synthetic elements. Should not oxidize. Complicated.

The following version of the separator was proposed based on a stepper motor and a flexible silicone hose. Even a small floppy drive motor will do.

6. Pump
Well, everything is clear here. 220 volts, or 12 volts, depending on how much lifting is to be done. If you need to pump from the basement, you yourself understand, you need more powerful, if at the same level, an ordinary circulation pump for an aquarium will do. If you have water under pressure at all, then put a water valve with a flow meter.

You can make it even more difficult: set the thermostat according to the temperature of the refrigerator water (or again, put a third temperature sensor on the controller), and open the valve only when the water heats up more than 45, for example, degrees. But I did not become so perverted: circulation is circulation. Another temperature sensor is, it seemed to me, already too much.

7. Radiator
This is also clear. If the system is closed, a radiator is needed. Any will do automotive. Seven can be easily found. The radiator should be blown for more effective work(preferably one flow from the hood). It can be immersed in a barrel of cold water - you get such a kind of double cooling circuit. If there is a basement, you can bury a pipe in the basement instead of a radiator and pump water through it. Options for cooling the circulating fluid - a lot. Who is more comfortable.

8. Settling tank (or sukhoparnik)
Plain container with a fitting at the inlet and outlet. This device is needed to protect against boiling over mash so that it does not immediately splash out into the refrigerator and further. And also heavy distillation fractions are retained in it. This sivukha does not contain alcohol - it is checked, but it stinks very unpleasantly. Without a sump, the distillate is very Bad quality. I don't recommend this crap. The resulting fuselage is used for grinding or simply poured out.

The sump must have a drain cock for draining (or be emptied in some other way). During the distillation process in the sump, 100-120 grams of this "burda" is formed. Some put 2-3 dry steamers in a row, but whether this is necessary is a moot point.

9. Temperature sensor
Automotive coolant sensor TM 106 from the "seven" threaded.

You will need two such sensors: one sensor from above, the second from below. They must be calibrated before use. Otherwise, the accuracy will not be very good. Here is the resistance data for my sensors. Summarized in the table: the dependence of resistance on temperature.

Temperature dependence of resistance

Scheme of switching on thermal sensors and ADC of the microcontroller:

It is optimal to use a 1 kΩ resistor as a resistor Ra. Then, in the range of 60..100 degrees Celsius, the voltage at the ADC MK will float from 3.4 volts to 4.4 volts, which, even with an 8-bit ADC, is more than enough. Even in the datasheet of the microcontroller, if I'm not mistaken, it is recommended to use a voltage above 3.5 volts for stable operation. Voltage U - to the ADC of the microcontroller, GND - ground, Uo - 5 Volts.

Also, in the process of discussing the concept, there was a proposal to use a thermal sensor, such as DS18b20. Probably easier to work with. Then, a stainless, plugged tube will have to be welded into the tank, instead of a threaded nut, and this sensor will be glued into it. This is what it looks like in stainless steel.

If the sensor is glued into the tubing of the tank, it is possible to use the sensor without the stainless sleeve.

10. Gas stove
Double burner gas stove. It needs to be retrofitted with electric ignition. And so - no changes are required. Before work, the burners are opened to full heat.

11. Electric ignition
Additional ceramic contacts that ignite the gas when needed. A high-voltage spark jumps between the burner and the candle. The gas ignites.

Perhaps the most controversial detail of this project. But without it, too, it is impossible - the security system. How will the electronics and ADC of the controller behave when a spark jumps? High voltage will appear on the ground, since the tank is made of metal, stands on a metal gas stove, and the temperature sensors are also wired to analog ground. Even if the entire system is grounded, the ground wire also has its own resistance, albeit small. How the equipment behaves remains to be seen.

12. LCD display
Liquid crystal display ACM1602K-FL-GBH-02. It is necessary for debugging processes, and in general - it is convenient when everything is displayed. In fact, the controller can work without it. But at the debugging stage, the display is simply irreplaceable. The indicator is 16-digit, two-line. There is a built-in backlight. You can use any other display, as long as you understand what is happening inside the controller.

The algorithm of work, together with the controller, is given above.

13. Controller
Generic device name. It includes all electronic drivers for controlling power devices (electric ignition, nozzles, pump, etc.), as well as the core of the system - a microcontroller.

I plan to use Atmel's ATmega32 crystal. There are a bunch of ADC inputs (only two are needed, though), and big pile pins for hardware drivers.

Actually - Atmel - not the only option. I do not pretend that it is necessary to do everything on it. You can use any other crystal or already turnkey solution, such as an Arduino, for example, or a PIC. Maybe there are craftsmen who want to organize work on the old Zilog - whoever likes what. I just bought two ATmega32s at one time, and now, they are still lying around idle.

14. PSU from PC
ATX computer power supply. You will need +12, +5 volts, GND. A computer power supply is a simple solution and powerful. Only one injector 4 amperes at 12 volts eat.

15. Relay K1, K2
Relays that control the on / off of the power supply from the PC. The PC ATX power supply can be turned on only by shorting the standby power of the green (it happens that the color is different) PS-ON wire to ground (black wire). In the same way, you can turn it off by disconnecting the green wire and the black one. Relays K1 and K2 will do this: manually from the button, they will close the wires, and on command from the microcontroller, when necessary, disconnect them.

Switching scheme:

Naturally, the relay binding is incomplete. The relay must have its own binding: protective diodes from self-induction currents, power supply capacitors to protect against chatter. I did not complicate the scheme.

The principle of operation of the circuit: we press the double ON button, thereby closing the green and black wires of the ATX power supply. The power supply turns on, a voltage of +12 volts appears on relay K1 and a group of contacts K1.1 picks up itself. Relay contact group K1.2 holds closed wires black with green for PC PSU. Thus, relay K1 is in a permanently on mode during system operation.

When the system has worked out all the algorithms, the power is no longer required and it can be turned off. The relay contact K2 receives a signal from the microcontroller (naturally, through a hardware driver). Relay K2 turns on. The normally closed group of contacts K2.1 opens the self-retaining power supply circuit of the relay K1, the relay K1 turns off, the group of contacts K1.2 opens. Black and green wire already unlocked. The power supply of the PSU disappears, the controller turns off.

Here is the decoupling diagram of the microcontroller and the relay:

For 12 volts, some KT815 transistor can be used. An inverter is not required - the controller can either make +5 volts or pull it to the ground. A few kΩ resistor.

In order to control the power elements of the system with five volts from the MK, so-called hardware drivers are needed - decoupling devices for low voltage and high or power.

Here are the decoupling of the relay and the microcontroller through specialized power microcircuits, a transistor or a MOSFET-field transistor. But the relay, as they say: "From which side you don't look, it looks bad from any side." They eat a lot, self-induction EMF, contacts burn, bounce when turned on, and also a strapping is needed. There are also much more modern devices.

This is about the relay. Here it was necessary only for the power supply. As for the rest of the elements (nozzles, fan, pump, etc. devices), here you can do without a relay at all.

Decoupling of MK and 220 volts:

To decouple the microcontroller and the power circuit for 220 volts, an optocoupler is used, for example, MOS3041 and a triac, for example, BT139. Pretty powerful stuff. Up to 16 amps, 220 volts. The microcircuit will require only a heatsink, the size depending on the load.

Decoupling 12 volts and MK:

There are specialized drivers for the mosfet transistor, but somehow I didn’t get along with them. The transistor circuit worked stably. The IRF640 power element itself for 12 volts is also a bunch of amperes. And I must say that 12 volts for the IRF640 is not the limit. This field effect transistor is up to 200 volts constant and up to 18 amperes in current. The speed, of course, is not ultra-fast, but for our slow processes - just right. In any case, a relay is better. And it looks the same as the previous triac: a case for a radiator and three legs. The input of the mosfet-transistor circuitry is a certain small capacity, therefore, the speed is limited, and the initial switching on of the transistor for opening consumes a very noticeable (for standard microcircuits) current, therefore, either a driver or a transistor is used for decoupling. The conclusions of the microcontroller will withstand, but it is better to untie.

Scheme of switching on and decoupling by means of a transistor:

If you use a driver specialized for decoupling the microcontroller and mosfet, then universal microcircuits IR2117, IR2118 are used. One chip opens the transistor high level signal, the second - at a low level. Below is an approximate circuit for connecting a driver and a transistor. In - input from the microcontroller.

Below is a diagram of the motor speed controller and the mosfet is not the same, but according to the diagram it is clear how the IR2117 driver is turned on in the decoupling circuit of the microcontroller and the power low-voltage load.

This is how the concept turned out. If you have suggestions for improvement or improvement, I will only be happy.

Findings:
In a dispute, truth is born.
During the discussion of this concept, some amendments and corrections were made.
In particular, the most important decision that fundamentally changes the entire project is the rejection of gas. Gas is indeed a very dangerous thing. If I plan to leave the equipment without supervision, then either I need to fence a very serious security system against gas leaks, its extinction, or put something simpler and safer.
There were recommendations to put the usual electric stove. I refused this idea - it is very inertial. Takes a long time to heat up, takes a long time to cool down. It is difficult to control the process of maintaining the set temperature.
These shortcomings are devoid of induction cooker. However, it will not be able to heat a stainless steel tank. This is a non-magnetic material. Foucault induction currents do not heat up stainless steel. Therefore, it is necessary to equip the tank with a special overlay made of ordinary sheet steel - “chernukha”. It will heat up and transfer the temperature to the stainless tank. Here's how I imagine it:

Sheet - dvoechki - quite enough, I think. Less thickness - less inertia. To retrofit the tank, it is necessary to weld 2 stainless bolts on both sides and fix this steel sheet welded in the shape of an inverted U on the nuts.
Such an option.

Thanks for the advice. But discussions continue. Especially, I'm interested in how to replace the 3W180 separator.