Do-it-yourself wind generator or how to make a homemade one. Manufacturing technology of a home wind farm (simple windmill)
Throughout the entire time of its development, mankind has made both insignificant and colossal discoveries that literally change the cognitive and objective reality and ideas, based on the widest range of existing laws on planet Earth. All of them, one way or another, were determined by certain factors and were the fruits of the needs and the need to improve something, create, change, adjust for themselves. Based on this, today we have literally come to the conclusion that there are strictly individual needs for the use of already modern and efficient devices and mechanisms that allow you to get the most out of everything that surrounds you. We will talk about such a device as a wind turbine (popularly - a wind blower, wind blower), as well as how to make it with your own hands, spending a minimum of energy and money, and getting the maximum result.
What is a wind generator
An excellent example for the presentation of a wind generator and its action can be the famous computer game Minecraft, where wind generators are revealed in all their qualities. The average mini-generator is arranged in a certain way.
All wind turbines in their essence are differentiated into the following main types:
- One of the most common are rotary (vertical) wind turbines, operating on the basis of vertical axial rotation, carried out with the help of a rotor and blades.
- Winged wind generators are a horizontal mechanism of axial rotation, carried out with the help of a so-called wheel and usually having a propeller in its system.
- Less often, you can also stumble upon drum wind turbines, which are, in essence, a subspecies of rotary wind turbines and operate on the same principles, but in a horizontal plane.
Of course, the first pictures that come to mind when the image of a wind generator arises are rotating blades, a screw, a tail, a turbine, or, as it is also called, a wind turbine, the so-called rotor.
The key link in all activities is a generator, a mast, batteries, an inverter connected to the power grid, a multiplier (reducer, if necessary) and a weather vane.
How to make a windmill with your own hands
Vertical wind turbines are the most efficient and easy to manufacture and operate, which leads to their sufficient prevalence, whether it is a spiral or direct mechanism.
Of great importance is both the purpose of creating a wind turbine and the area on which it will be installed, which should be taken into account when planning.
There are key points that require mandatory attention when creating a wind turbine. The first thing to be determined is, of course, the engine of all progress, the heart of the entire system - a generator that can be both purchased and made by yourself, which, in essence, requires some skill and skills, however, with due desire, a beginner can also handle it. . Depending on your goal, you want a serious machine at 10kW, 5kW (5kW) or less powerful at 12V, or a smaller and simpler bicycle-type wind turbine used as an electrical installation on the balcony of an apartment.
The wind turbine can be equipped with almost any generator:
- Whether it is a well-known rural tractor generator;
- Detail from an old computer or computer;
- Or maybe it's a low-noise car engine;
- An element of the engine of a washing machine, only its performance matters.
Next, we decide on the blades - the very spinning objects that resemble the blades of a mill. The blades can also be made from a large number of materials, the most promising and common of which are, for example, plywood, plastic, sometimes tin (barrel edges, for example), PVC material, and so on. When manufacturing, all significant factors should be taken into account - both the influence of centrifugal force, and the size of the blades, the wind flow on the ground, and others. It is most rational to create a winged character, by virtue of increasing efficiency, by influencing the distribution of the wind flow.
The next step is the manufacture of a device for determining the speed and direction of the wind - a weather vane. It is something like a metal flag that changes its position in accordance with the wind currents. Almost any relatively strong, but light layer of metal can be used as a weather vane.
Mast - a wide range of improvised means can also be used in its role, for example, a strong water pipe. It is quite possible to make a home-made wind apparatus (home-made) yourself, as already described, from the maximum available means, and the strength of the windmill depends on the materials used and the reasonableness of use in specific conditions. The simplest representative of such devices is quite capable of creating electricity for lighting a room, charging devices, and, if desired, even to meet the basic needs of a relatively small country house.
Selection of a generator for a windmill
The generator is the most important element of the entire installation, without which it is impossible to create a single volt of electricity. It is quite realistic to make a low-speed generator on your own from improvised means, but you should select all the elements for specific purposes, because if we are talking about a powerful installation, then quite serious details are needed here.
The generator includes:
- The rotor is a movable element in the mechanism that performs a reverse function, and also on which a device is placed that receives energy from a source (body).
- The stator is a closely interconnected element with a rotor, which is stationary, assembled, in the case of a generator, from metal sheets attached to each other, and on which an inductor (metal winding) is placed.
- Neodymium magnets that perform an inductive function.
At the same time, to perform the function of a generator, depending on the purpose, you can use almost any workable mechanism, whether it be the remains of a tractor engine or an electric motor from a printer or a fan starter.
It is important how the copper electrical wire is selected.
If we are talking about making a generator from scratch, then elements are needed here. The hub is the middle part of the wheel, the metal base for the future motor. Neodymium magnets in a certain quantity and size. Metal discs are needed, on which magnets will be attached, polyester resin or another capable of fixing and gluing the magnetic layer, a thick layer of paper, plywood.
Making wind turbines with your own hands at 220V
It is quite possible to make a 220-volt wind generator yourself, and even this is far from the limit of possibilities, with due desire and the availability of the necessary materials.
Distinctive features of generators with relatively significant power to small ones with low power are:
- Of course, a more powerful power plant requires more reliable, durable parts and components, as well as stronger wind.
- Also, when creating and maintaining wind turbines with a capacity sufficient to maintain at least one large electrical household appliance, a battery used to store excess energy on it is an obligatory element.
- It should be borne in mind that for more energy, a more serious control system is required, which leads to the integration of a control unit, including voltage stabilizers in its system, into such windmills.
- For more serious and non-compact systems, an appropriate stable installation is required.
From the latter follows the need for a foundation, at least in the form of small prepared and filled holes in order to install a model in them. Also, axial generators are devoid of the sticking property, or, as they say, the starting point, due to which even the slightest wind can budge blades of such a device.
Otherwise, 220 V wind turbines (including their manufacture) practically do not differ from other representatives and obey the general rules outlined above.
The most common wind generator is based on an axial wind turbine system based on the use of neodymium magnets in it, which have won their high place in the market due to quality, durability and affordability.
Stages of building windmills for the house with your own hands
If we talk about a suburban area of \u200b\u200bdacha or a manor, but it should be understood that the greater the need, the greater the cost. Especially if we keep in mind the purpose of heating or the constant maintenance of all household appliances, the laboriousness and maintenance of such a device, even if it is one of the most profitable.
A wind turbine, as already mentioned above, may well serve as the main source of electricity even for a whole house.
When compared with close analogues, for example, a solar source is in many ways inferior to windmills, because the sun does not come every day, but an electric generator is even more unlike a wind generator in terms of economic and environmental components.
The main components of a wind turbine for the home (to Of course, when talking about a wind turbine for a home, it should be understood that all the basic elements are needed
- Stator, rotor, inductor, which are the main components of the generator;
- Batteries for energy storage;
- Wind catcher, if we are talking about low wind area.
In addition, in the manufacture it is also possible to use the principles of the inventions of the APU by Sklyarov, Biryukov or Tretyakov, which will significantly increase the rationality and benefits of using the system and, for comfort, reduce noise effects.
Instructions: how to make a wind generator with your own hands
The wind turbine manufacturing process is creative and how it will be arranged depends only on the master. There is no universal instruction, since each design is a combination of various details and other factors of each particular case.
Everything is done with the help of basic tools - a screwdriver, a hammer, a grinder and other similar ones.
The first thing to do in the manufacture of a wind turbine is to determine the purpose and make basic calculations, drawings, determine the location, and so on. Next, you should assemble and fix the blades, the tail to the battery (connect to the generator).
The main and most optimal, tested and detailed instructions for making a wind generator with your own hands:
- To make a generator from pre-prepared parts - 2 prepared metal pancakes with neodymium magnets are fastened against each other, between which a stator is inserted with a copper winding already on it.
- A support (bracket) is installed on the mast (pipe), and a hub is installed above it.
- Next, a generator should be installed on the hub, after which the stator should be connected to the support.
- A wind turbine is installed on the other side.
Concrete and build the base of the structure in order to stabilize it in strong winds, calculating the main parameters, because for a significant installation of a step distance may not be enough.
Advantages of a homemade wind generator
In conclusion, it should be noted that a homemade wind generator is an excellent, modern and more and more affordable source of energy every day, spreading at an incredible speed. The main advantages of a wind generator, which cannot be assigned to electric generators based on a gas generator, are high efficiency, availability, efficiency, ease of installation and operation, modernity, most are low-noise, environmentally friendly.
Wind turbines today are a promising and increasingly efficient and growing means of generating electricity, while being relatively economical and quite affordable, even in order to make such a device with your own hands.
DIY wind generator: 4 kW (video)
Homemade wind turbines are a great way to learn new things, try new things, and make an affordable and easy way to provide electricity to the house in the simplest home conditions.
Wind is a clean source of inexpensive energy that is fairly easy to obtain. In our opinion, everyone has the right to choose where to get electricity from. For these purposes, there is nothing more practical and efficient than building a wind generator with your own hands from improvised materials.
General scheme of the wind generator
Wind turbine assembly
Most of the tools and materials mentioned in this manual can be purchased at a hardware store. Also, we strongly recommend that you look for the following components at second-hand dealers or at your local junkyard.
The issue of safety is of the highest priority for us. Your life is much more valuable than a cheap source of electricity, so follow all the safety rules associated with building a windmill. Spinning parts, electrical surges, and harsh weather conditions can make a wind turbine quite dangerous.
The design of this home wind turbine is simple and efficient, and it is quick and easy to assemble. You can use wind energy without any restrictions.
Wind generator accessories
This manual uses a DC motor from a treadmill (powered 260V, 5A), with a 15 cm threaded bushing attached to it. At a wind speed of about 48 km / h, the output current reaches 7 A. This is a small, simple and cheap unit with which you can start harnessing wind power.
You can use any other DC motor that delivers at least 1V at 25 rpm and can handle more than 10 amps. If necessary, you can change the list of required components (for example, find a sleeve separately from the engine - a circular saw blade with a shaft adapter of 1.6 cm is suitable for this purpose).
Wind turbine assembly tools
Drill
- Drills (5.5 mm, 6.5 mm, 7.5 mm)
- Electric jigsaw
- Gas key
- Flat head screwdriver
- adjustable wrench
- Vice and/or clamp
- Cable stripping tool
- Roulette
- Marker
- Compass
- Protractor
- Tap for threading 1/4 "x20
- Assistant
Wind turbine assembly materials
Carrier bar:
- Square tube 25x25 mm (length 92 cm)
- Masking flange for 50 mm pipe
- Spigot 50 mm (length 15 cm)
- Self-tapping screws 19 mm (3 pcs.)
Note: if you have the opportunity to use a welding machine, then weld a piece of 50 mm pipe 15 cm long to a square pipe, without using a flange, pipe and self-tapping screws.
Engine:
DC motor from the treadmill (power supply 260V, 5A) with a threaded bushing 15 cm attached to it
Diode bridge (30 - 50 A)
Bolts for the engine 8x19 mm (2 pcs.)
Piece of PVC pipe 7.5 cm (length 28 cm)
Shank:
Square piece of tin 30x30cm
Self-tapping screws 19 mm (2 pcs.)
Blades:
A 20 cm piece of PVC pipe, 60 cm long (if it is UV resistant, you don't have to paint it)
Bolts 6x20 mm (6 pcs.)
Washers 6 mm (9pcs)
Sheets of A4 paper (3 pcs.)
Scotch
Wind turbine assembly
Cutting the blades - we will have three sets of blades (nine pieces in total) and a thin strip of waste.
Place our 60 cm long PVC pipe on a flat surface along with a piece of square pipe (you can use any other sufficiently long object with a smooth edge). Press them tightly against each other and draw a line on the PVC pipe at the point of contact along its entire length. Let's call this line A.
Make marks at each end of line A, stepping back from the edge of the pipe 1-1.5 cm.
Glue three sheets of A4 paper together so that they form a long, straight piece of paper. You have to wrap the pipe with it, applying in turn to the marks just made on it. Make sure that the short side of the piece of paper fits snugly and evenly against line A, and that the long side overlaps evenly where it overlaps with itself. From each end of the pipe, draw a line along the edge of the paper. Let's call one of these lines B, the other - C.
Hold the pipe so that the end of the pipe closest to line B is facing up. Start where lines A and B intersect and make marks on line B every 145mm moving to the left of line A. The last piece should be about 115mm long.
Turn the pipe upside down with the end closest to line C. Start at the point where lines A and C intersect, and also mark lines C every 145 mm, but move to the right of line A.
Using a square tube, connect the corresponding points on opposite ends of the PVC pipe with lines.
Cut the pipe along these lines using a jigsaw so that you have four strips 145 mm wide and one about 115 mm wide.
Lay all the strips with the inner surface of the pipe down.
Make marks on each strip along the narrow side from one end, retreating from the left edge of 115 mm.
Repeat the same from the other end, retreating 30 mm from the left edge.
Connect these points with lines, crossing the strips of the cut pipe diagonally. Saw the plastic along these lines with a jigsaw.
Put the resulting blades with the inner surface of the pipe down.
Make a mark on each line of the diagonal cut at a distance of 7.5 cm from the wide end of the blade.
Make another mark at the wide end of each blade 2.5 cm from the long, straight edge.
Connect these points with a line and cut the resulting corner along it. This will prevent the blades from breaking in side winds.
Processing of wind turbine blades
You must sand the blades in order to achieve the desired profile. This will increase their efficiency and also make their rotation quieter. The front edge should be rounded and the back edge should be pointed. Any sharp corners should be rounded to reduce noise.
Shank cutting
Tail size is not critical. You need a piece of light material measuring 30x30 cm, preferably metal (tin). You can give the shank any shape, the main criterion is its rigidity.
Drilling holes in square pipe - use a 7.5 mm drill bit.
Position the motor on the front end of the square tube with the bushing over the end of the tube and the mounting bolt holes facing down. Mark the position of the holes on the pipe and drill through the pipe at the marked locations.
Holes in the masking flange- this point will be described later in the installation section of this manual, since these holes determine the balance of the structure.
Drilling holes in blades- use a 6.5 mm drill.
Mark two holes at the wide end of each of the three blades along their straight (back) edge. The first hole should be 9.5mm from the straight edge and 13mm from the bottom edge of the blade. The second is at a distance of 9.5 mm from the straight edge and 32 mm from the bottom edge of the blade.
Drill these six holes.
Drilling and cutting holes in the sleeve– use a 5.5 mm drill bit and a 1/4" tap.
The treadmill motor comes with a bushing attached to it. To remove it, use pliers to firmly fix the shaft protruding from the bushing, and turn the bushing clockwise. It unscrews clockwise, which is why the blades rotate counterclockwise.
Make a sleeve template on a piece of paper using a compass and a protractor.
Mark three holes, each 6 cm from the center of the circle and equidistant from each other.
Place this template on the core and pre-drill it through the paper at the marked locations.
Drill these holes with a 5.5mm bit.
Thread them with a 1/4"x20 tap.
Screw the blades to the hub with 1/4" x 20mm bolts. At this moment, the outer holes, close to the boundaries of the bushing, have not yet been drilled.
Measure the distance between the straight edges of the tips of each blade. Adjust them so that they are equidistant. Mark and hammer each hole on the hub through each blade.
Make a mark on each blade and hub so you don't mix up the attachment points for each at a later stage of assembly.
Unscrew the blades from the hub and drill and thread these three outer holes.
Production of a protective sleeve for the engine.
Draw two parallel lines on our segment of PVC pipe with a diameter of 7.5 cm along its length at a distance of 2 cm from each other. Cut the pipe along these lines.
Cut off one end of the pipe at a 45° angle.
Place a pair of needle nose pliers into the slot and look through the pipe.
Make sure the bolt holes on the motor are centered in the middle of the slot in the PVC pipe and place the motor in the pipe. With an assistant, this is much easier.
Mounting
Place the motor on a square pipe and screw it to it using 8x19mm bolts.
Place the diode on the square pipe behind the motor at a distance of 5 cm from it. Screw it to the pipe with a self-tapping screw.
Connect the black wire coming out of the motor to the "positive" input terminal of the diode (marked AC on the "plus" side).
Connect the red wire coming out of the motor to the "negative" input terminal of the diode (it is labeled AC on the "negative" side).
Position the shank so that the end of the square tube opposite the one on which the motor is placed runs through the center of the shank. Clamp the tail against the pipe with a clamp or vise.
Screw the shank to the pipe with two self-tapping screws.
Place all the blades on the hub so that all the holes line up. Using 6x20mm bolts and washers, screw the blades to the hub. For the three holes in the inner circle (closest to the hub axle), use two washers, one on each side of the blade. For the other three, use one each (on the side of the blade closest to the bolt head). Tighten tight.
Securely fix the motor shaft (which passed through the hole in the bushing) with pliers and, after putting on the bushing, turn it counterclockwise until it is completely screwed in.
Using a gas wrench, screw the 50 mm spigot tightly onto the masking flange.
Clamp the nozzle in a vise so that the flange is horizontally above the vise jaws.
Position the square tube carrying the motor and shank on the flange and achieve a perfectly balanced position.
Once balanced, mark the square tube through the holes in the flange.
Drill these two holes using a 5.5mm bit. You may have to twist the tail and sleeve for this so that they do not interfere with you.
Screw the supporting square tube to the flange with two self-tapping screws.
The amounts that you have to pay for utilities are growing every year. This is especially true for electricity. But not everyone knows that it can be obtained literally from the air, or rather, with the help of wind power.
Thanks to which this is possible, they are called wind generators. The purchase of such equipment will not be cheap. However, you can save money by making a vertical windmill with your own hands.
Unlike other methods of generating energy, windmills have a lot of advantages, such as:
- environmental friendliness
- operation without fuel
- energy saving
- uncomplicated maintenance
- use of an inexhaustible source of energy
In addition, a good windmill will make the house an autonomous point for the production of electricity.
There are practically no disadvantages of wind generators, however, they have minor disadvantages:
- high cost of installations (factory models)
- noise
- excess energy requires additional batteries
- power variability
The last drawback is the most significant, however, it can be eliminated by supplementing the installation with batteries. In addition, the effect of wind generators depends entirely on the variability of weather conditions.
As you can see, the wind generator has more advantages, which indicates the profitability of its use.
Who benefits from it
There are a lot of types of wind generators, and even more so subspecies. Which device should be installed on one or another depends on the following factors:
- local wind speed
- device purpose
- estimated cost
Before installing the windmill directly, you need to think several times: will the costs pay off. First you need to determine the speed and direction of the wind in the area intended for installation.
You can get this information in two ways: on your own or contact the local weather service. The first option will require a portable station that can be rented or purchased.
The advantage of independent measurements is their accuracy, however, a full-fledged study will take at least one year. The data received in the weather service will have approximate values, but will not require the cost and time for additional calculations.
To install a wind turbine, the wind speed indicator for the year must be at least 4.5 m / s-5m / s.
At values of about 4-5 m/s, the energy generated by a medium power generator will be equal to 250 kWh per month. This is enough to provide electricity to a house for 3-4 people with heating and hot water. A windmill can generate up to 3 thousand kWh per year. The cost of installing such a wind generator is approximately 180 thousand rubles.
Creating your own installation is many times cheaper. At the same time, it is worth considering the constant increase in electricity tariffs. Thus, the wind turbine can be a good alternative source of electricity.
Where to install
Choosing a place to install a windmill is one of the most important steps. The best option would be a free elevated point. It is important that the wind generator is not located below the level of the nearest and buildings that will impede the flow of wind.
The most suitable places for installing wind generators are steppes, banks of water bodies, deserts and hills. In such areas, strong and constant winds often blow.
In multi-apartment or urban environments, you can place the generator on the roof. This procedure should be coordinated with the relevant authorities. In order to make sure that the vibrations of the windmill do not harm the roof, it is worth examining its design.
So that the noise from the generator does not annoy, it should be installed at a distance of 15-25 m from residential buildings.
One of the main parameters of a windmill is the location of the rotational mechanism (shaft) relative to the earth's surface. On this basis, devices are divided into horizontal and vertical.
The first ones work on the principle of a windmill: the mechanism rotates in search of wind and the blades start moving from the slightest air currents.
This type of device generates a large amount of electricity, which will be a lot for a private house.
Windmills with a vertical axis of rotation will be the ideal solution for providing electricity to a small area or private production.
In addition, this device has the following advantages:
- regardless of wind direction
- unaffected by the weather
- works even at low speeds
- the area of the blades is 2 times larger than that of horizontal windmills
The vertical wind generator also has disadvantages: low efficiency and high noise level. But, these disadvantages are insignificant in comparison with the overall benefits of the device.
So, a horizontal windmill can be installed directly on the roof, and a vertical one should be kept at a distance.
How to turn wind into heat
Even from a low-power windmill, you can get heat for the whole house. One of the easiest to implement is a heating system with natural circulation.
By installing a vertical windmill with your own hands for heating, you can save a decent amount. In addition, when using a natural circulation system with a wind generator, there is no need to spend money on a pump.
The heating scheme includes:
- Boiler
- Conductive straight pipe (for delivering heated water)
- Radiators
- Return pipe (to deliver cooled water back)
The boiler is installed below the level of the entire system. This is necessary to ensure a natural supply of water to it.
With the help of straight and return pipes, the radiators are connected in series, respectively, to the upper and lower parts of the boiler. The water heated in it will be squeezed upwards, falling alternately into the radiators.
Such a system will significantly save on heating the house. In addition, it will regulate the temperature in the room.
Wind generator accessories
To design even the simplest vertical windmill with your own hands (220 V), you need to purchase the main components:
- rotor - the moving part of the generator
- blades
- mast - can have a different design (tripod, pyramid)
- stator - coils with copper wire are located on it
- battery
- inverter - converts direct current into alternating current
- controller - designed to “brake” the generator when its power exceeds the set value
For the manufacture of blades, it is best to use sheet plastic. Other materials are subject to severe deformation and damage. The larger the area of the intended part, the denser the plastic should be.
When choosing a material, it is important to make sure that it is high-quality PVC, otherwise you will have to spend money on new components again and make complex calculations.
Thus, to create your own windmill, you will not need expensive or rare parts.
Vertical Windmill vs. Horizontal
To understand which windmill design works more efficiently, it is worth considering in more detail the features of each of them. The horizontal generator has the following advantages:
- effective in any direction of air flow
- takes up much less space than vertical
- operates at high speeds even with low wind speeds
- has a simple design
- does not make noise
In addition, horizontal wind turbines are made of lightweight materials and can even be mounted on a lamppost. When placed along the road, such structures work even in calm weather.
The service life of wind turbines of both types is approximately the same. Proper care and maintenance allows them to work effectively for up to 25 years. In horizontal windmills, the main load falls on the hub and bearing assembly. Vertical products experience more pressure on the blades.
The biggest difference between these types of windmills is their price. Horizontal ones cost the owners of such structures much more.
Such a windmill is best used in areas with increased turbulence and frequent changes in wind direction. Vertical are more suitable for open areas with a constant wind speed above 4.5 m / s.
Based on the results of the comparison, many summer residents choose a vertical type of wind generator.
Preparation of vertical windmill parts
The blades are made from various materials. The main condition is that they should be light.
The easiest option would be to make blades from a PVC pipe.
They are less exposed to sunlight and are quite durable.
For a vertical windmill, 4 PVC parts and 2 tin parts are created. The latter are cut in the form of semicircles and fastened on both sides of the pipe.
The blades are attached to the frame in a circle. The radius of rotation of the blades will be 690 mm. The height of each blade is 700 mm.
When assembling the rotor, you will need the following parts:
- 6 neodymium magnets and 2 ferrite
- discs with a diameter of 230 mm (2 pieces)
Neodymium magnets should be placed on one disk, while not forgetting to change their polarity, alternating during installation. Between them it is required to observe an angle of 60 degrees, with a diameter of 165 mm. Ferrite magnets should be attached to disk 2 in the same way. Then they need to be filled with glue.
In order to start manufacturing the stator, you need to wind 9 coils of 60 turns. Typically, a copper wire with a diameter of 1 mm is used for this. The coils are then soldered to each other as follows:
- start 1 connects to end 4
- 4 - from 7
The second phase is assembled in exactly the same way, only soldering occurs from the second coil, and accordingly, the third phase is soldered to coil 3. From plywood you need to make a special form. A piece of fiberglass is placed in it, and then coils.
The final step is to fill the structure with glue. A day later, the stator is ready for operation.
Now that all the parts of the generator are done, they only need to be connected:
- Studs will subsequently be present at the top. For them you need to make holes (4 pieces). They are designed for a smooth "landing" of the rotor in place.
- Holes are also made in the stator - for the bracket.
- The lower rotor rests on it (magnets up).
- Then the stator is installed.
- The second rotor is placed on top with the magnets facing down. Parts are fixed to each other with nuts.
The design of the vertical generator also requires detailed consideration. Its main disadvantages include low efficiency and a greater number of parts compared to horizontal. On the other hand, such a product can work effectively even with a small wind.
A horizontal generator is more reliable because it can withstand strong gusts of wind. The noiselessness of this type of construction is also one of its most important advantages. You can install a horizontal windmill even on the roof of a residential building.
Thus, it is not very difficult to assemble the main parts of a windmill.
Wind generator design
The wind generator is a wheel with blades attached to it, a gearbox (converts and transmits torque), a battery and an inverter.
The assembly of the product structure is carried out as follows:
- Preparation of a three-point reinforced foundation.
- The mast is made of durable pipes (you can take water pipes). It should take out the rotor above the attic.
- Screwing the generator to the finished mast.
- Attaching the frame with blades to the generator.
- Fastening the mast to the foundation and its additional fixation with the help of stretching.
The collection of the electrical network is also carried out in a certain sequence.
The windmill must produce three-phase alternating current, which is converted to direct current using a bridge rectifier. A standard automotive relay is used to control the charge level. An inverter is connected to the battery, which produces 220 V AC.
Thus, the following results of the finished windmill operation at different wind speeds are obtained:
- 5 m/s - 15W
- 10.4 m/s - 45 W
- 15.4 m/s - 75 W
- 18 m/s - 163 W
There are several ways to increase the power output of a generator. For example, if you increase the height of the mast to 26 meters, the average annual wind speed rises to 30%. At the same time, electricity is generated 1.5 times more. This is ensured by eliminating the influence of buildings and trees on the speed of air flows.
So, in order for the windmill to work efficiently, you need to calculate its design characteristics in advance.
Windmill Care
The following procedures are carried out as regular maintenance of the structure:
- lubrication of moving parts (at least 2 times a year)
- tightening bolts and electrical connections
- checking mechanisms for rust and loose stretch marks
- blade breakage control
The most common damage to a windmill is blade breakage. In winter, a crust of ice appears on them. Frequent cleaning will extend the life of the structure.
Parts are painted as needed. Once a year, you need to completely inspect the structure for damage.
A homemade windmill is very different in terms of power from factory products. This is due to inaccurate calculations. A horizontal windmill with a theoretical power of 101 watts will produce only 90, and a vertical one with 69 watts will produce about 60.
In order not to be disappointed in the low performance of a home-made design, it is worth making it with design parameters 2 times higher than necessary.
Thus, assembling a vertical windmill is a fairly simple option for providing a residential building with electricity. This is due to the ease of assembly of the structure, the low cost of the project and the high efficiency of the device. In addition, it requires minimal maintenance, and generates electricity constantly. How to make a windmill yourself is presented in the video:
The power of a home-made wind generator will be enough to charge the batteries of various equipment, provide lighting and, in general, the operation of household electrical appliances. By installing a wind generator, you save yourself from the cost of electricity. If desired, the unit in question can be assembled by hand. You just need to decide on the main parameters of the wind generator and do everything in accordance with the instructions.
The design of the wind generator includes several blades that rotate under the influence of wind currents. As a result of such an impact, rotational energy is created. The resulting energy is fed through the rotor to the multiplier, which in turn transfers energy to the generator.
There are also designs of wind turbines without multipliers. The absence of a multiplier makes it possible to significantly increase the plant productivity.
Wind generators can be installed both individually and in groups combined into a wind farm. Also, wind turbines can be combined with diesel generators, which will save fuel and ensure the most efficient operation of the electrical supply system at home.
What you need to know before assembling a wind turbine?
Before you start assembling a wind turbine, you need to decide on a number of key points.
First step. Select the appropriate type of wind turbine design. Installation can be vertical and horizontal. In the case of self-assembly, it is better to give a choice in favor of vertical models, because. they are easier to manufacture and balance.
Second step. Determine the right power. In this moment, everything is individual - focus on your own needs. To obtain more power, it is necessary to increase the diameter and mass of the impeller.
An increase in these characteristics will lead to certain difficulties at the stage of fixing and balancing the wind turbine wheel. Consider the moment and objectively assess your capabilities. If you are a beginner, consider installing several medium sized wind turbines instead of one very powerful unit.
Third step. Think about whether you can make all the elements of a wind generator yourself. Each detail must be accurately calculated and made in full accordance with the factory counterparts. In the absence of the necessary skills, it is better to buy ready-made elements.
Fourth step. Choose the right batteries. It is better to refuse car batteries, because. they are short-lived, explosive and demanding in care and maintenance.
Sealed batteries are the preferred option. They cost a couple of times more, but they last several times longer and generally have higher performance.
Pay special attention to choosing the right number of blades. The most popular are wind turbines with 2 and 3 blades. However, such installations have a number of disadvantages.
When operating a generator with 2 or 3 blades, powerful centrifugal and gyroscopic forces take place. Under the influence of the mentioned forces, the load on the main elements of the wind generator increases significantly. At the same time, at some moments the forces act in opposition to each other.
In order to level the incoming loads and keep the design of the wind generator intact, you need to perform competent aerodynamic calculation of the blades and manufacture them in strict accordance with the calculated data. Even minimal errors reduce the efficiency of the installation several times and increase the likelihood of an early breakdown of the wind generator.
During the operation of high-speed wind turbines, a lot of noise is created, especially when it comes to home-made installations. The larger the blades will be, the louder the noise will be. This moment imposes a number of restrictions. For example, it will no longer be possible to install such a noisy structure on the roof of a house, unless, of course, the owner likes the feeling of life in an airfield.
Keep in mind that with an increase in the number of blades, the level of vibration generated during the operation of the wind generator will increase. Two-blade setups are more difficult to balance, especially for the inexperienced user. Consequently, there will be a lot of noise and vibration from windmills with two blades.
Give a choice in favor of a wind generator with 5-6 blades. Practice shows that such models are the most optimal for self-production and use at home.
The screw is recommended to be made with a diameter of about 2 m. Almost anyone can handle the work of assembling and balancing it. Having gained experience, you can try to assemble and install a wheel with 12 blades. The assembly of such a unit will require more effort. Material and time costs will also increase. However, 12 blades will allow even with a light wind of 6-8 m / s to receive power at the level of 450-500 watts.
Keep in mind that with 12 blades, the wheel will be quite slow, and this can lead to various problems. For example, you will have to assemble a special gearbox, which is more complex and expensive to manufacture.
Thus, the best option for a beginner home master is a wind generator with a wheel with a diameter of 200 cm, equipped with 6 medium-length blades.
Assembly parts and tools
Assembling a windmill will require a variety of different components and accessories. Gather and buy everything you need in advance so you don't have to worry about it in the future.
Depending on the conditions of a particular situation, the list of necessary tools may vary slightly. At this point, you will independently orient yourself in the course of the work.
Wind Turbine Assembly Step by Step Guide
The assembly and installation of a homemade wind generator is carried out in several stages.
First stage. Prepare a three-point concrete base. Determine the depth and overall thickness of the foundation in accordance with the type of soil and climatic conditions at the construction site. Let the concrete cure for 1-2 weeks and install the mast. To do this, bury the support mast in the ground by about 50-60 cm and fix it with braces.
Second phase. Prepare the rotor and pulley. The pulley is a friction wheel. A groove or rim is located around the circumference of such a wheel. When choosing a rotor diameter, you need to focus on the average annual wind speed. So, at an average speed of 6-8 m/s, a 5 m diameter rotor will be more efficient than a 4 m rotor.
Third stage. Make the blades of the future wind generator. To do this, take a barrel and divide it into several identical parts in accordance with the selected number of blades. Mark the blades with a marker, and then cut out the elements. A grinder is perfect for cutting, you can also use scissors for metal.
Fourth stage. Fasten the bottom of the barrel to the generator pulley. Use screws for fastening. After that, you need to bend the blades on the barrel. Do not overdo it, otherwise the finished installation will be unstable. Set the appropriate rotation speed of the wind generator by changing the blade bends.
Fifth stage. Connect the wires to the generator and assemble them into a circuit at a dose. Attach the generator to the mast. Connect the wires to the generator and the mast. Assemble the generator into a circuit. Also connect the battery to the circuit. Keep in mind that the maximum allowed wire length for this installation is 100 cm. Connect the load with wires.
It takes an average of 3-6 hours to assemble one generator, depending on the skills and overall performance of the master.
The wind generator requires regular care and maintenance.
- 2-3 weeks after installing a new generator, you need to dismantle the device and check the reliability of the existing fasteners. For your own safety, only check the bindings in light winds.
- Lubricate bearings at least once every 6 months. When the first signs of wheel imbalance appear, immediately remove it and eliminate the existing malfunctions. The most common sign of imbalance is uncharacteristic shaking of the blades.
- At least once every 6 months, check the brushes of the pantograph. Every 2-6 years paint metal elements installation. Regular painting will protect the metal from destruction due to corrosion.
- Monitor the condition of the generator. Regularly check that the generator does not overheat during operation. If the installation surface becomes so hot that it becomes very difficult to keep your hand on it, take the generator to a workshop.
- Monitor the condition of the collector. Any contamination must be removed from the contacts as soon as possible, because. they significantly reduce the efficiency of the installation. Keep an eye on the mechanical condition of the contacts. Overheating of the unit, burnt windings and other similar defects - all this should be immediately eliminated.
Thus, there is nothing complicated in assembling a wind generator. It is enough just to prepare all the necessary elements, assemble the installation according to the instructions and connect the finished unit to the mains. A properly assembled wind turbine for the home will become a reliable source of free electricity. Follow the instructions given and you'll be fine.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself wind turbines for home
About that, we talked in one of the previous materials. Today, your attention will be presented to the models of wind turbines built by users of our portal. We will also share useful tips that will help you assemble the installation and avoid mistakes. Building a wind turbine with your own hands is a difficult task. Not every (even experienced) practitioner can accurately cope with its solution. However, any error found in time can be corrected. That's why the master - the head and hands.
The article addresses the following questions:
- From what materials and according to what drawings can wind turbine blades be made.
- The order of assembly of the axial generator.
- Is it worth it to remake a car generator for a wind turbine and how to do it right.
- How to protect a wind turbine from a storm.
- At what height should the wind turbine be installed?
Blade manufacturing
If you do not yet have experience in making screws for home wind turbines yourself, we recommend that you do not look for complex solutions, but use a simple method that has proven its effectiveness in practice. It consists in the manufacture of blades from an ordinary sewer PVC pipe. This method is simple, accessible and cheap.
Mikhail26 FORUMHOUSE user
Now about the blades: made from the 160th red sewer pipe with a foamed inner layer. Did according to the calculation presented in the photo.
The "red" pipe is mentioned by the user not by chance. It is this material that holds its shape better, is resistant to temperature changes and lasts longer (in comparison with gray PVC pipes).
Most often, pipes with a diameter of 160 to 200 mm are used in home wind energy. With them, you should start your experiments.
The shape and configuration of the blades are parameters that depend on the diameter of the pipe from which they are made, on the diameter of the wind wheel, on the speed of the propeller and other design characteristics. In order not to bother yourself with aerodynamic calculations, you can use the one posted on our portal by its author. It will allow you to determine the geometry of the blades by substituting your own values \u200b\u200bin the calculation table (pipe diameter, propeller speed, etc.).
Mikhail26
I got used to sawing with an electric jigsaw. It turns out really quickly and efficiently. Note: be sure to put a large free play of the file on the jigsaw so that the file does not bite or break.
The design of the axial generator
When making a choice between a three-phase or single-phase generator, it is better to opt for the first option. A three-phase current source is less susceptible to vibrations that occur due to uneven load, and allows you to get constant power at the same rotor speed.
BOB691774 FORUMHOUSE user
Single-phase generators should not be wound: tested and proven in practice for a long time. Only on three phases can you get decent generators.
The design parameters of the generator, which we talked about in our previous material, are determined by the current needs for electricity. And so that in practice they correspond to the amount of generated power, the design of the axial generator must meet certain requirements:
- The thickness of all disks (rotor and stator) must be equal to the thickness of the magnets.
- The optimal ratio of coils and magnets is 3:4 (4 magnets for every 3 coils). For 9 coils - 12 magnets (6 for each rotor disk), for 12 coils - 16 magnets and so on.
- The optimal distance between two adjacent magnets located on the same disk is equal to the width of these magnets.
Increasing the distance between two adjacent magnets will result in uneven power generation. It is possible to reduce this distance, but it is better, nevertheless, to observe the optimal parameters.
Aleksei2011 FORUMHOUSE user
It is a mistake to make the distance between the magnets equal to half the width of the magnet. One person turned out to be right when he said that the distance should be no less than the width of the magnet.
If you do not delve into a boring theory, then the circuit for overlapping the coils of an axial generator with permanent magnets in practice should look like this.
At each moment of time, the same poles of the magnets similarly cover the windings of the coils of a single phase.
Aleksei2011
This is how it is in real life: everything coincides with the picture by almost 100%, only the coils differ quite a bit in shape.
We will consider the assembly sequence of the axial generator using the example of a device assembled by the user Aleksei2011.
Aleksei2011
This time I am making a disk axial generator. Disc diameter - 220 mm, magnets - 50 * 30 * 10 mm. In total - 16 magnets (8 pieces per disc). The coils were wound with wire Ø1.06 mm, 75 turns each. Coils - 12 pieces.
Stator manufacturing
As you can see in the photo, the coils are shaped like an elongated drop of water. This is done so that the direction of movement of the magnets is perpendicular to the long side sections of the coil (this is where the maximum EMF is induced).
If round magnets are used, the inside diameter of the coil should roughly match the diameter of the magnet. If square magnets are used, the coil windings must be configured in such a way that the magnets overlap the straight lengths of the windings. The installation of longer magnets does not make much sense, because the maximum EMF values occur only in those sections of the conductor that are located perpendicular to the direction of the magnetic field.
The manufacture of the stator begins with the winding of the coils. Coils are easiest to wind according to a pre-prepared template. Templates are very different: from small hand tools to miniature home-made machines.
The coils of each individual phase are connected to each other in series: the end of the first coil is connected to the beginning of the fourth, the end of the fourth to the beginning of the seventh, etc.
Recall that when the phases are connected according to the “star” scheme, the ends of the windings (phases) of the device are connected into one common node, which will be the neutral of the generator. In this case, three free wires (the beginning of each phase) are connected to a three-phase diode bridge.
When all the coils are assembled into a single circuit, you can prepare a mold for pouring the stator. After that, we immerse the entire electrical part in the mold and fill it with epoxy.
Production of a rotor for an axial shaft
Most often, home-made axial generators are made on the basis of a car hub and brake discs compatible with it (you can use home-made metal discs, as I did Aleksei2011). The scheme will be as follows.
In this case, the stator diameter is larger than the rotor diameter. This allows the stator to be attached to the frame of the wind turbine using metal studs.
Aleksei2011
Studs for mounting the M6 stator are (in the amount of 3 pieces). This is purely for the generator test. Subsequently, there will be 6 pieces (M8). I think that this will be quite enough for a generator of such power.
In some cases, the stator disk is attached to the fixed axis of the generator. This approach makes it possible to make the design of the generator less overall, but the principles of operation of the device do not change from this.
Opposite magnets must be directed towards each other with opposite poles: if on the first disk the magnet faces the generator stator with its south pole “S”, then the opposite magnet located on the second disk must face the stator with its “N” pole. In this case, the magnets located side by side on the same disk must also be oriented in different directions.
The strength of the magnetic field that neodymium magnets create is quite large. Therefore, the distance between the stator disks and the generator rotor should be adjusted using a stud-threaded connection.
This is a design variant in which the rotor diameter is larger than the stator diameter. The stator in this case is attached to the fixed axis of the device.
Also, to adjust the distance between the discs, you can use spacers (or washers), which are installed on the fixed axis of the generator.
The distance between the magnets and the stator should be minimal (1…2 mm). You can glue magnets on the generator disks with ordinary superglue. It is best to stick magnets using a pre-prepared template (for example, from plywood).
Here is what the preliminary tests of the generator performed by the user showed Aleksei2011 using a screwdriver: at 310 rpm, 42 volts were removed from the device (connection - star). One phase produces 22 volts. The calculated resistance of one phase is 0.95 Ohm. After connecting the battery, the screwdriver was able to spin the generator up to 170 rpm, while the charging current was 3.1A.
After lengthy experiments, which were associated with the modernization of the working screw and other smaller improvements, the generator showed its maximum performance.
Aleksei2011
Finally, the wind came to us, and I recorded the maximum power of the windmill: the wind intensified, and gusts at times reached 12 - 14 m / s. The maximum recorded power is 476 watts. With a wind of 10m / s, the windmill produces about 300 watts.
Wind power plant from a car generator
A popular solution among people who practice making wind turbines with their own hands is to remake a car generator for alternative needs. Despite the attractiveness of such an undertaking, it should be noted that a car generator in the form in which it is installed on a vehicle engine is quite problematic to use as part of a wind power plant. Let's see why:
- Firstly, the winding of the coils of a standard automobile generator consists of only 5 ... 7 turns. Therefore, in order for such a generator to start charging the battery, its rotor must be spun up to about 1200 rpm.
- Secondly, the magnetic induction in a standard automotive alternator occurs due to the excitation coil, which is built into the rotor of the device. In order for such a generator to work without being connected to an additional power source, it must be equipped with permanent magnets (preferably neodymium) and certain adjustments must be made to the stator winding.
Mikhail26
The converted oscillator (for magnets) has the right to life. I have two of these now. In a wind of 8 m/s with two meter propellers, they give an honest 300 watts each.
Alteration of a car generator for a wind turbine requires some skill. Therefore, it is advisable to start it with experience in rewinding induction motors or generators with a standard cylindrical stator (both of which, if desired, can be turned into an alternative power plant). Alteration of a car generator has its own nuances. It will be much easier to understand them if you turn to those who have managed to achieve certain success in this area.
Cable twist protection
As you know, the wind does not have a constant direction. And if your wind generator rotates around its axis like a weather vane, then without additional protection measures, the cable going from the wind generator to other elements of the system will quickly twist and become unusable within a few days. We offer you several ways to protect yourself from such troubles.
Method one: detachable connection
The simplest, but completely impractical way to protect is to install a detachable cable connection. The connector allows you to untangle the twisted cable manually by disconnecting the wind generator from the system.
w00w00 FORUMHOUSE user
I know that some people put something like a plug with a socket downstairs. Twisted the cable - disconnected from the outlet. Then - untwisted and stuck the plug back. And the mast does not need to be lowered, and current collectors are not needed. I read this on a forum on homemade windmills. Judging by the words of the author, everything works and does not twist the cable too often.
Method two: using a hard cable
Some users advise connecting thick, elastic and rigid cables (for example, welding cables) to the generator. The method, at first glance, is unreliable, but has the right to life.
user343 FORUMHOUSE user
Found on one site: our method of protection is to use a welding cable with a hard rubber coating. The problem of twisted wires in the design of small wind turbines is greatly overestimated, and welding cable #4...#6 has special qualities: hard rubber prevents the cable from twisting and prevents the windmill from turning in the same direction.
Method three: installing slip rings
In our opinion, only the installation of special slip rings will help to completely protect the cable from twisting. It is this method of protection that the user implemented in the design of his wind generator. Michael 26.
Wind Turbine Storm Protection
It is about protecting the device from hurricanes and strong gusts of wind. In practice, it is implemented in two ways:
- By limiting the speed of the wind wheel with the help of an electromagnetic brake.
- The removal of the plane of rotation of the screw from the direct impact of the wind flow.
The first method is based on a wind generator. We have already talked about it in one of the previous articles.
The second method involves the installation of a folding tail, which allows, at nominal wind strength, to direct the propeller towards the wind flow, and during a storm, on the contrary, to take the propeller out of the wind.
Tail folding protection occurs according to the following scheme.
- In calm weather, the tail is slightly inclined (down and to the side).
- At nominal wind speed, the tail straightens out and the propeller becomes parallel to the airflow.
- When the wind speed exceeds the nominal values (for example, 10 m/s), the wind pressure on the propeller becomes greater than the force created by the weight of the tail. At this point, the tail begins to fold, and the propeller moves out of the wind.
- When the wind speed reaches critical values, the propeller rotation plane becomes perpendicular to the wind flow.
When the wind weakens, the tail under its own weight returns to its original position and turns the screw towards the wind. In order for the tail to return to its original position without additional springs, a swivel mechanism with an inclined pivot (hinge) is used, which is installed on the axis of rotation of the tail.
The optimal tail area is 15%...20% of the wind turbine area.
The most common variant of the mechanical protection of a wind generator is presented to your attention. In one form or another, it is successfully used in practice by users of our portal.
watch cat FORUMHOUSE user
In a storm, it is necessary to slow down the propeller by pulling it out from under the wind. For example, when the wind is too strong, the windmill capsizes with the screw up. Not the best option, because the return to the working position is accompanied by a noticeable blow. But for ten years the windmill did not break.
A few words about the correct installation of a wind generator
When choosing the location and height of the mast that would be optimal for installing a wind turbine, you should focus on a variety of factors: the recommended height, the presence of obstacles near the wind turbine, as well as your own observations and measurements.
In order to calculate the optimal mast height for a home wind turbine, it is necessary to add another 10 meters to the height of the nearest obstacle (tree, building, etc.), which is located within a radius of 100 meters from the windmill mast. This way you will get the height of the bottom point of the wind wheel.
Leo2 FORUMHOUSE user
In the USA, for example, the minimum recommended mast height for a wind turbine with a power of several kW is 15 m, but the higher the better. The bottom of the wind turbine must be at least 10 m above the nearest highest obstacle. Of course, you must first survey the area and choose the optimal height of the mast. Only a very experienced specialist can do this by eye. In all other cases, careful measurements should be carried out within a year (at least).
In the process of installing homemade wind turbines, theory very often diverges from practice, therefore, on average, homemade masts have a height of 6 to 12 meters. The main advantage of homemade towers (masts) is that if any parameters do not meet your needs, the design, dimensions and installation height can be changed at any time.
Before carrying out welding work related to the repair or modernization of the structure, the generator must be turned off and removed from the mast. Otherwise, under the influence of welding currents, permanent magnets may fail (demagnetize).
The rich experience of FORUMHOUSE users is collected in one of the sections of our building portal. If you are seriously interested in alternative energy, we recommend that you read the article on (batteries). Surely, you will also be interested in a short video about the features of the correct construction of a powerful and functional power supply system for a country house, which, according to the classical scheme, is connected to a standard transformer substation.