Simple stair railings. Railings for stairs - the best design ideas and optimal models of stair railings (105 photos)
Today we will look at the issue of fastening balusters and railings when installing wooden stairs. Even a person who is not experienced in the intricacies of carpentry understands how rich and noble appearance wooden stairs are, how difficult they are to manufacture and install.
Calculation and production of parts
The wooden staircase railing consists of three key elements:
- Railings are horizontal or inclined elements that can be grasped by hand.
- Balusters - vertical supports between steps and railings.
- Pillars or pedestals - vertical racks, into which the ends of the railings rest. Typically, pillars have turned or carved heads.
The parts of each group are manufactured individually, after which they are assembled at the installation site. Posts and balusters are made primarily by turning, and railings by milling.
You need to start calculating the fence with the railings, which include straight and curved segments. In general, the configuration of the railing is determined by the shape of the staircase in plan. The outer edges of the steps are taken as the base for calculations; the railings are located with some indentation from them towards the center of the flight of stairs. The offset is necessary so that the support point of the pillars and balusters is not located at the very edge. The amount of indentation is determined by the cross-section of the supports, plus some arbitrary value is added, which is dictated by aesthetic considerations. It is also necessary to take into account such specific circumstances as the overlap of spans in plan, achieving a symmetrical setback on adjacent flights and at the same time maintaining the width of the passage as much as possible.
In space, individual parts of the railing can be located strictly horizontally and under the general slope of the stairs. Calculation of the length and dimensions of the horizontal segments can be done by displaying a sketch of the railings on the staircase plan drawing. Inclined elements are calculated in a similar way, but to calculate their actual length it is necessary to divide the projection length by the cosine of the angle at which the flight of stairs is inclined relative to the horizontal normal.
When calculating pillars and balusters, several requirements apply, the most important of which is the height of the fences. According to GOST, stair railings must rise above the plane of the steps by at least 90 cm in residential buildings and at least 120 cm in public buildings and on street streets. flights of stairs. The axial profile of pillars and balusters can be arbitrary, but there are certain requirements: the thickness of the pillars in the plane of support must be at least 10% of their height, balusters can be 2-2.5 times thinner. The length of the balusters should be equal height fencing + 7-10%, while in the base part a uniform profile (preferably faceted) must be maintained for a length of at least 5% of the total. The pillars are made in quantities of at least two for each flight of stairs, the number of balusters is equal to or twice the number of steps.
The width of the railing in plan should be approximately 30-50 mm less than the thickness of the pillars in the abutment area and 15-20 mm greater than the thickness of the balusters. The milling profile can be arbitrary, but the preferred option is a rounded top with two longitudinal necks for a more secure hand grip. The length of the handrail segments should have an allowance of 50-80 mm in both directions for cutting and fitting.
Pre-assembly and preparation for installation
Before starting the installation of the stairs, it is necessary to first assemble the straight segments of the railing using adhesive joints. The spatial arrangement of the handrails is a guide for calculating the attachment points of the vertical fencing elements. Since the railings are precisely machined and have a flat bottom edge, they are convenient to use as a straight rail for further marking.
Sometimes, at corners and turns of staircases, the distance between flights forces the installation of short handrail inserts between the posts. Depending on the configuration of the staircase, these sections are assembled either from one or several radius segments, or from linear segments. The railing elements are prepared and glued in advance; the connection is made using hidden domino-type tenons or 2-3 cylindrical dowels.
Also, before starting work, they should be stocked the right amount wooden dowels for attaching balusters and posts. It is also advisable to cut the pillars themselves to size: if this could not be done in the workshop, then due to the large cross-section, processing with a miter saw is not possible. It is better to apply markings along the perimeter of the base part under the square, making sure that the end of the last line coincides with the beginning of the first. Trimming is done along this line with a hand-held saw with a fine tooth; it is advisable to alternately go deeper into each face by 3-5 mm. For more confidence You can secure the limit rail with clamps.
Marking and fastening of pillars
The pillars are the basis for positioning the entire stair railing. They are located on each top and bottom step of each flight of stairs. If there are intermediate platforms, including rotary ones, this rule must also be observed. At the same time, the uppermost post can be common to the railing and balustrade.
Factory posts come in two types: solid and box-shaped, that is, glued together from strips of thick plywood or wood panels. It is very important that each post has a straight edge at the junction of the handrails, because in the case of joining with a round support, factory trimming of the edges of the handrail is required, which significantly complicates the installation process.
Hollow pillars are attached through a boss - a 150-200 mm piece of timber, the outer dimensions of which correspond as closely as possible to the cavity of the pillar. The boss is attached through a through axial hole using a pin screwed into the step or platform. This method of fastening allows for rotation of the post around its axis and a slight lateral play for its precise positioning. Gluing of a hollow post is carried out using glue of a thick consistency, the lower end is first lubricated a small amount sealant, this belt around the perimeter will prevent squeezing out excess glue.
A - box-shaped post with fastening through a boss. B - solid post with dowel fastening. 1 - pillar; 2 - base; 3 - plinth; 4 - pin or anchor; 5 - dowel
Monolithic poles are fastened to one large (20-30 mm) dowel or to several small ones evenly distributed over the support area. With this method of fastening, it is desirable that the junction of the post to the site be framed by a plinth, which helps to hide the adhesive seam and increase the support plane. If you have a baseboard, you can also use the fastening method with ties for cabinet furniture, since the niches for the nuts will ultimately be hidden anyway.
The alignment of pillars is better with parallel pairs, that is, on intermediate platforms where flights of stairs converge. The distance between the pillars should provide a sufficiently large gap between the lower handrail and the steps of the upper flight. In the longitudinal direction, the position of the pillars is determined by two long straight slats laid on the edges of the steps of converging marches. The plane laid across the line of intersection of the slats is the ideal position for installing the posts. If necessary, they can be moved towards the spans, but not back, otherwise the railings will overlap. When paired pillars are positioned on landings and turns, the end ones are also marked using the same principle; it is important here that the connection with the railing is carried out at the same height.
Trimming, installing balusters
Looking ahead, we note that the sequence of attaching the balusters to the steps, to the handrails, as well as the handrails themselves to the posts may be different depending on the method of assembling the fence. First, all balusters must be trimmed and their attachment points must be marked.
It is best to fasten the bottom of the balusters on dowels with zero tolerance, drilling the steps to a depth of 20 mm. To mark the centers of the holes, you need to use a laser level to shoot a vertical plane parallel to the end of the steps. If balusters are installed in the amount of one piece per step, it is enough to use a square to find its middle, based on the riser. When installing balusters in pairs, you need to achieve their uniform spacing, for which the protrusion of the upper step above the lower one is beaten off with a square, and the remaining “net” width is divided so that the centers of the balusters are spaced from the edges by 1/4 of the resulting segment.
When installing balusters, it is important to keep their heads strictly on the same line
Balusters with a figured profile must be aligned in length relative to the handrails. To do this, they are laid out on a flat plane, aligning the profiles along their widest part. Next, a line is drawn under the long straight rail, which serves as a marking for trimming at right angles.
The bevel cut of the top of the balusters is made on a miter saw or in a precision miter box. Balusters are trimmed in groups for each flight of stairs. First you need to determine the actual slope of the stairs by placing a strip on the edges of the steps and marking the horizontal axis along it with a laser level. Using this marking, a template is made using a small tool, according to which the rotary table of the saw is precisely adjusted.
Before oblique trimming, centering holes are made at the ends of the balusters; their depth should be sufficient to deepen the dowel at least 40 mm after trimming. In the lower part, drilling is carried out after trimming the balusters to length. This is quite simple to do: first, dry and strictly vertically install the two outer balusters of each span, which are temporarily fastened together with the right staff with a straight edge aligned with the top edge of the bevel cut. Next, one by one, put the balusters in their place, use a caliper to determine the excess length and trim the lower end, if necessary, deepening the center hole and always numbering the parts.
Attaching handrails
The handrail can be attached to posts different methods, among which the most popular are fixation on spikes or screws with making through holes. The first method is more labor-intensive and often tenon fastening cannot be done without a groove router with precise adjustment of the inclination of the sole. In the second case, installation is simpler, but there are mounting holes on the backs of the posts that need to be closed with decorative plugs.
Railing with railing
Attaching the railings to the balusters is done in two ways. Simple - using a rail and a little more complex - using wooden dowels. The choice of fastening method depends entirely on the profile of the handrail: when fixing to an intermediate rail, a rectangular groove to the appropriate depth must be selected in the lower edge of the product. The handrails for fastening to dowels should also have a groove equal to the width of the base part of the balusters, but it is intended solely for masking the fastening points and should have a depth of 5-7 mm.
The final assembly of the fence, as mentioned, can take place in different sequences. When attaching to a support rail, balusters are first glued to the steps on the dowels, after which the rail is installed, and then the handrails are cut and secured with self-tapping screws from below. When installing balusters on dowels and attaching handrails to posts with self-tapping screws, first glue all the railings, and drilling into them must be carried out with tolerance: in this case, landing on liquid nails will allow for more accurate alignment. If the balusters are attached to dowels, and the pillars to the handrails are fastened with a tenon connection, the pedestals are installed last, which requires the simultaneous positioning of all elements of the staircase in a short time for the glue to set.
Final processing of the railings
As a rule, wooden stair railings are assembled from parts that have already been primed and painted. In such cases, all that remains is to disguise the places where the railings join together, where they join the posts and where the balusters join the steps, where gaps up to 1-1.5 mm thick can form. To fill the cracks, you can use acrylic sealant or wood paste based on natural wax.
If the wooden parts do not have protective coating At the time of assembly, the cracks in them are sealed with wood putty, and then the entire fence along with the stairs is primed and painted. It is recommended to apply two layers of transparent water-soluble primer followed by fine sanding to remove raised lint. Next, the steps are covered with stain or glaze in 2-3 layers. It is recommended to choose two layers of transparent polyurethane varnish as the main protective coating.
Any design inevitably involves the need to select suitable railings. This one is important structural element influences not only the level of safety of the entire structure, but also shapes the appearance and design of the staircase. There are many ways to make railings. They may differ in material, shape, size, level of filling, design and presence of decor. In order for the entire staircase design to be safe, practical, aesthetically pleasing and fit harmoniously into the interior of the home, the choice of railings must be approached with special care. We invite you to be inspired by the options for handrails for stairs of a wide variety of designs and materials using the example of our large-scale photo selection.
Types of railings based on material used
Railings are called fencing of staircases. Often they are necessary not only to create protection against a possible fall of a person walking along the steps and to support him, but also to support the entire structure of the staircase and its elements. Depending on the functions assigned to the railing, the material of the entire staircase, its size and type of modification, interior design and financial capabilities of the owners, he selects the material for the execution of the railing. Most often used for the manufacture of railings:
- tree;
- metal;
- glass;
- polyurethane;
- acrylic;
- combined designs.
Currently, metal railings can be safely called the most popular way to perform this element of staircase design. Advantages metal products obvious;
- strength;
- durability;
- reliability;
- high wear resistance;
- resistance to moisture and temperature fluctuations;
- high fire safety;
- ease of care;
- wide range of design possibilities;
- wide range of pricing policies (depending on the selected material).
An owner with any wallet size can find his own version of a metal fence. Aluminum and stainless steel will cost several times less than forging or railings made of brass and copper. Steel products for this moment are the most popular (cost plays an important role in this case), but manufacturers also offer structures made of iron and even cast iron. But when choosing a material for making railings, much depends on the design of the staircase itself, its weight, dimensions and method of fastening the steps in particular and flights in general.
Aluminum railings have the following list of advantages:
- ease of installation;
- resistance to corrosion;
- light weight, elegant appearance;
- affordable price;
- railings with a natural aluminum sheen will look great in interior design styles such as high-tech, minimalism, modern, and varieties of modern styles;
- Possibility of tinting the shiny surface in any color.
The main disadvantage of aluminum products is low strength. They can only be used indoors and in a gentle manner. But for many staircase customers, such conditions are more than acceptable.
Railings from of stainless steel differ from aluminum structures lack of fragility in the structure of the material. Stainless steel is most often combined with other materials, so it can effectively fit into any interior design style. Usually “stainless steel” is combined with wooden handrails. The combination of stainless steel stands with glass screens is also popular. Such railings can be used both indoors and for the exterior of homes.
According to the type of execution, all metal railings can be divided into 4 groups:
prefabricated– can be installed very quickly, are distinguished by high technology, low weight and affordable cost;
welded– such railings are made from steel or ferrous metals using the cold bending method. The products are distinguished by sufficient strength, durability, and wear resistance. Weakness such railings are welded seams. To prevent corrosion, products must be periodically painted. Only stainless steel is free from this drawback;
casting– products are obtained by pouring molten metal into molds. The cooled pieces are removed and processed. In this way, you can make railings of amazing beauty, with a wide variety of designs, exquisite decorative elements;
forging– in this way you can create railings with truly unique design. Forging masters are able to create real masterpieces using special devices or manually. Finished goods can be treated “to look like gold or silver”, apply a patina (it all depends on the style of the interior in which the staircase will be located). The high cost of forged products is justified not only handmade, but also originality of design, strength and reliability of structures.
Natural wood railings
Even if your staircase is not made of wood, the railings are made of this natural, universal material will be more than appropriate. Wood products will never go out of style. High environmental friendliness natural material, excellent aesthetic qualities, and simply pleasant sensations from touching warm wood are relevant at all times. There is an opinion that stairs or their components made of natural wood are not a pleasure for everyone. But for the manufacture of railings, you can choose so-called “budget” types of wood, affordable for many Russians.
The only disadvantages of railings made from natural wood include the influence of moisture and temperature changes on the structure of the material. Wooden structures without additional processing(varnish and impregnation coatings special compounds) should not be used outdoors.
If your interior is decorated in one of the country style styles, or in such styles as chalet, Provence, tropical, marine, wooden staircase designs in general and railings in particular will be more than appropriate. The beautiful natural pattern of wood not only brings a special atmosphere to the image of the room, but also emphasizes the originality of other interior items.
It happens that customers want to create wooden handrails on the railings of a spiral staircase. From natural material Such a design is not easy to obtain. An affordable alternative is to manufacture radial elements from polyvinyl chloride. Of course, it will not be possible to achieve complete resemblance to the aesthetic qualities of natural wood, but you can get a completely durable and reliable structure.
If the staircase is limited on both sides by walls, then there is no need for railings. But for comfortable and safe movement along the steps of the stairs, it must be equipped with a handrail that can be mounted directly to the wall. In most cases, such a handrail is made of wood (even if the staircase itself is made of a different material), because it is so pleasant to touch.
When creating an all-wooden staircase, you can use a combination of wood species with a contrasting combination of natural colors. But similar designs can be expensive. It is much more practical and affordable to combine painted and unpainted wood. As a rule, if this technique is used for supports and handrails, then it is repeated in the steps of the stairs.
Glass railings for modern interiors
Most often, glass is used to create protective screens. For this purpose, panels made of tempered, laminated organic or silicate glass are used. This material is called triplex; in construction circles you can find the name “translucent structures”. Glass in the triplex system has the following advantageous qualities:
- aesthetic appearance;
- environmental friendliness of the material
- strength;
- heat resistance;
- there is no danger for a person to be cut by fragments when breaking a panel ( protective film prevents the formation of fragments);
- safe sanded edges;
- the ability to tint panels in any color if transparency of the structure is not required.
Another important advantage of glass railings that should be noted separately is the transparency of the structure. Sunlight penetrates almost unhindered through the protective screens of the stairs, creating a light and bright image of the entire room, uncluttered by the stairs.
As a rule, the size of triplex glass panels does not exceed 1.2 m. Glass railings are used both for staircases in public buildings and for private use in houses and apartments with several levels. Glass railings, consisting only of translucent panels without handrails, look luxurious, modern, and unique. But their level of safety and comfort in use is an order of magnitude lower than that of alternatives with comfortable handrails.
Combined railings
By combining various materials when making railings for stairs, it is given not only to create original design, but also to improve the quality of strength, reliability and safety of structures. Most often, metal and wood are combined. Metal racks and a wooden handrail are an ideal alliance for creating reliable, durable, comfortable and pleasant stair railings.
When creating combined designs of handrails for stairs, so-called metal strings are often used. The elements got their name for their small diameter but high strength. The strings create reliable protection for everyone who moves along the stairs, but at the same time they practically do not block the spread of sunlight. For these qualities, designers recommend the use of metal strings (thin ropes) both in spacious rooms and in small spaces.
In some cases, a combination of the three main materials used to make railings - metal, wood and glass - is successful. Such structures will not be cheap, but they can become a practical and reliable decoration for the staircase. As a rule, protective screens are made of glass, which are attached to metal posts; the structure is completed with wooden railings.
And in conclusion
Summarizing all of the above, we can highlight several recommendations for choosing handrails for stairs used in a private home:
It is obvious that the appearance of the railing should not resonate with the overall design of the staircase; it is necessary that the entire structure looks organic. The texture, material and color schemes of the main parts must match or be organically combined. Decorative elements (if any) should not “conflict” with the base of the structure;
for a completely wooden staircase, it is better to opt for railings made of a similar material (you can combine various breeds wood with a variety of natural patterns and colors). But metal inserts can also decorate a wooden staircase, giving its structure additional strength;
if you need an affordable, reliable and easy-to-use solution for making stair railings, then choose the option using stainless steel (such structures do not need to be painted and are easy to transport and install);
The shiny surface of stainless steel will look organically in any of the directions of modern style, hi-tech or modern. If you need matte surfaces, then it makes sense to consider using black steel. Coating from powder paint will help to give products any color scheme(at your discretion - to fit harmoniously into the overall picture or create contrast). With this choice, the family budget will not suffer;
when creating a luxurious interior in which the staircase design plays a key role, the best option will be the use of artistic forging - exclusive design and the magnificent appearance of the durable design compensate for all costs.
Fences for balconies and terraces are not always provided during their construction. Sometimes, the need for a fence on the terrace arises later.
For example, you have small children, you need to protect your open terrace from the wind, or you simply decide to change the color of your recreation area and area near your house or dacha.
Terrace fencing options
To begin with, you should understand what types of fencing are available for terraces and balconies in general and for wooden terraces in particular:
1. By appearance
- closed, designed to protect the veranda from the wind or prying eyes.
- open - bearing a decorative rather than functional load.
2. By material
The choice of material depends on the overall design of the estate.
Synthetic materials
Valued for their ability to withstand temperature changes. They have increased strength and also require minimal maintenance requirements.
- Fencing for terraces made of wood-polymer composite (WPC). This modern combined material visually similar to painted white or Brown color tree. At the same time, it is more durable and is not subject to swelling and fading. This means it requires minimal maintenance. Today, WPC terrace fencing is gradually winning over its consumers.
- . Polyvinyl chloride has found its application here too. The main attractive feature of such fencing is its low cost. However, they are quite fragile, which prevents their widespread distribution.
Natural materials
- . Such fences must be very elegant so as not to overload the structure and not increase the load on the foundation. Example in the photo
- . Metal/steel is rarely used on its own, more often it acts integral part metal fencing. However, such options also exist.
- . Here the main element is tempered or laminated glass. Suitable for those who want to prevent dust from entering the terrace, protect themselves from the wind, and at the same time not limit their view.
- . It is not advisable to use such material for wooden terraces, because it puts a strong load on the foundation. However, it is quite suitable for balconies.
- Fences for terraces made of cellular or monolithic polycarbonate. Lightweight and transparent are becoming more common. This is facilitated by low weight, low cost and ease of manufacture.
- – a stainless steel cable or rope stretched along the perimeter of the terrace performs the function of a fence.
- - look beautiful and unusual.
- Wooden fencing for terraces. Wooden fencing has not lost its popularity, despite its difficulty in maintenance. This was facilitated by several factors: availability, relative cheapness of the material, the ability to make it yourself, ease of installation and replacement of individual sections, and the ability to give the fence any configuration. In addition, no type can be compared in the number of variations with wooden fences for terraces.
3. By type of execution
Each material has its own approach to execution.
A fencing for a wooden terrace can be made in one of three variations:
- Horizontal (i.e. horizontal arrangement lintels, supports, balusters)
- Vertical (i.e. vertical arrangement of lintels, supports, balusters)
- Cross (i.e. cross/intersecting arrangement of lintels, supports, balusters)
Despite the wide variety of varieties, the photo of wooden terrace fencing shows that they all fit into these three types.
When choosing the type and materials for fencing, you should consider:
- compatibility of the material with the overall design of the site;
- weight future design;
- requirements for operation and maintenance;
- availability of material;
- material cost;
- the ability to replace damaged structural elements;
- the opportunity to carry out work on arranging and replacing the fence with your own hands.
How to make a wooden deck fencing
The device will require the following components:
- supports;
- balusters;
- railings for wooden terrace.
If supports and railings carry a functional load, then balusters, among other things, also serve as decorative decorations.
Balusters for the terrace - photos with varieties
If the terrace is located more than 30 cm above the ground surface, it is necessary to provide one or more steps.
If it is more than a meter, you will need railings for a wooden terrace made of wood.
DIY fencing for a wooden terrace
- The height of the fence is determined; for a terrace, the optimal size is about one meter.
- supports are installed. For horizontally located wooden elements, this is the place where they are fixed. The distance between the supports should not exceed 120 cm. The gap depends on the type of structure and the weight of the individual elements, as well as on the wind load in the region. The supports can protrude beyond the railing and act as elements that support the roof.
- install balusters. The frequency depends on the size of the baluster. It is generally accepted that the distance between balusters on a terrace should be no less than their width.
- install railings.
How to make a staircase to a terrace with railings and fencing
- Calculation of the angle of inclination of the stairs and the location of individual elements
If the angle is too large, the stairs will be inconvenient to use. If it’s small, it will take up a lot of space in front of the terrace. The optimal angle of inclination of the stairs is 45 degrees.
- Making a stringer - a base for attaching steps.
- Installation of stringers. The stability of the entire structure depends on the reliability of the stringer fastening.
- Installing steps for a terrace. The installation process is shown in the picture.
- Finally, the installation of balusters and railings is carried out.
Fencing for the terrace - photo
Conclusion
We hope that from this article you have learned useful information about the construction of railings and fencing for wooden terraces.
Railings are elements of the fencing structure on the stairs. Handrails ensure safe movement when going up or down the stairs. Railings come in a variety of shapes and materials. Some designs are simple in appearance, safe and convenient. Some can become a real designer decoration, especially if the staircase is located indoors.
You can make railings for stairs from various materials: metal, wood, concrete, plastic. The easiest way to make barrier structures with your own hands is from metal and wood. In the article you can find detailed information on how to choose the right material, process it and make beautiful and reliable railings for the stairs.
The height of the fencing structure must be at least 90 cm.
Handrails should be smooth and not too wide.
On narrow stairs, one side adjacent to the wall, one span of fencing is installed. If the flight of stairs is wide, it is recommended to install two fencing structures.
If a steep or high staircase is installed in a house where there are small children, it is preferable to install an additional low fence that will be comfortable for the child to hold on to.
The distance between the balusters should be such that a child cannot crawl through the opening. Optimally -15-20 cm.
Handrails. This is the top bar located above the railing structure. It is the handrails that people hold on to when going down. Handrails should be smooth, monolithic, so that they are comfortable to hold on to.
Balusters. These are racks that are attached to steps or a bowstring (a load-bearing element at an angle located at the edge of the stairs). Balusters are attached to the structure at a certain length.
Cabinet. This is a powerful end post located at the end of the stairs. Handrails are attached to the cabinet.
Material selection
Aluminum. It is quite difficult to make a structure from this metal with your own hands. Most often, various fasteners and fencing elements are sold ready-made. Assembling a railing with your own hands from a set of parts is quite simple; the main thing is to choose a design and calculate the number of parts required. The material itself does not have high performance properties; it bends when impacted, gets scratched, becomes dull, and becomes covered with corrosion spots.
Chrome fencing
They are also sold ready-made, the main thing is to correctly calculate and purchase all the necessary elements. Flaw chrome parts- rapid abrasion of the coating, especially if the stairs are located in crowded places.
Forged fences. Hot forging is primarily a factory job; it is very difficult to make fencing elements from hot forging at home. Cold forging- a more doable job; if you have special tools, you can make the railings yourself. Pros - versatility in fencing design, cons - enough high price material, special tool, complexity of the technical process.
Stainless steel. The metal has a shine that does not fade. Stainless steel stair railings are strong and reliable, but to build them yourself requires the skills of a welder and a metal carver.
Video - Installation of stainless steel fencing
Set of tools and materials
Place for welding work.
Metal profile and rolled metal. It is desirable that the profile has a small cross-section, so it is easier to cut.
Welding machine, pack of electrodes, access to electricity, protective suit and mask.
Angle grinder with wheels for cutting and polishing metal.
Work order
First of all, the height of the railing and the distance between the balusters are determined. On the topmost step, as well as on the bottom, pedestals are installed - elements that fix the entire structure of the fence. The cabinets should be thicker in diameter than the balusters.
The height of the fence is calculated. The standard is 95 cm. But the railing frame should be raised above the steps by 10 cm. It is also worth considering 5 cm for the handrail. In total, 15 cm is subtracted from 95 cm and the result is 80 cm. This is the size to which the metal profile is cut for cabinets and balusters.
If the length of the frame is 3 meters, then the transverse upper and lower profile, to which the balusters between the pedestals are attached, should also be cut into 3 meter elements.
Frame welding. A frame is laid out from the cut profile and lightly tacked by welding. There is no need to immediately tightly weld the elements; in case of defects or misalignment, you will have to do extra work. The welded frame is reinforced: balusters are welded after 10 cm. It is worth considering that the outer pedestals must be at least twice as thick as the internal metal vertical lintels.
If the design fully complies with the standard and has no distortions, you can begin the final welding of all elements. It is recommended to weld the seams on both sides to make the fence as strong as possible.
After the frame is ready, pillars with round or square plates 10 cm high need to be welded to the lower profile. Holes are drilled in the plates for fastening to the steps.
Improvement of the appearance of the structure
For this purpose, you need an angle grinder with a grinding wheel. It is necessary to carefully polish all welding residues: drops, build-ups.
Experts recommend giving your homemade product a beautiful and unusual look using purchased forged elements. Specialized stores offer a variety of forged accessories that can be welded to the frame sheathing: climbing vines with leaves, flowers, ornaments.
You also need to consider the type of handrails. Most often they are made of wood. Wooden blanks rounded on three sides and thoroughly polished.
The first layer is a primer that will protect against corrosion. Then you need metal paint. Color depends on individual preference, but black is most often used. Designers recommend adding chic homemade fence. For this purpose, patina is used - a material that gives the metal an old and noble appearance. DIY metal railings are ready.
Choosing wood for construction
Pine. This material is quite affordable and is very often used in construction. Pine is soft, its wood has an uneven structure, due to which, when painting, the covering material is absorbed with different intensity. It is easy to process and can withstand changes in temperature and humidity.
Birch. Dense and durable material, having practically no bitches. Well processed and polished. But wood has a number of disadvantages: it is susceptible to rotting and cracks when temperature and humidity change.
Beech. By physical characteristics This wood is in no way inferior to oak. But it is not recommended to overdry the beech. At low humidity, a layer of wood breaks along the fibers, which leads to damage to the elements.
As in metal structures, wooden structures include handrails, balusters and cabinets. But, in wood products, balusters are not only a supporting element, but also a decoration of the structure. Most often, they are made from laminated veneer lumber and are machined into columns of various shapes.
Milling of balusters involves cutting screw patterns on the surface of the elements.
During turning, several combined geometric shapes can be seen on the elements: balls, squares, rectangles, etc.
Video - DIY stair railings. Installation of figured balusters and installation of handrails
Hand-cutting balusters is a real work of art. Patterns, ornaments and much more are cut out on the surface of the parts. Some wood carvers create these elements in the form of animal figures.
Flat balusters are boards on which patterns are cut. This is the easiest way to decorate a staircase with your own hands.
As described above, the standard and safe height of the structure must be at least 95 cm. The width of the handrail is 5 cm, the distance between the steps and the fence is 10 cm. As a result, the height of the balusters is 80 cm. For these elements, wooden planks are needed, 10 cm wide. 15 cm, thickness 30-35 mm.
To create carved and beautiful fencing, the planks need to be shaped. Specialists who have mastered lathe, can cut carvings on the ends of the board using equipment. If the machine is not available, then a hand-held power tool, for example, a jigsaw, is used.
To do this, you need to draw a template on paper or cardboard that has real dimensions. Then, using a pencil, trace the template on each board and cut out the shape according to the marks. After all the balusters have acquired the desired shape, you need to carefully process the ends, clean them with fine-grained sandpaper and polish them to a shine.
Flat balusters, unlike wooden figured posts, are not recommended to be attached to steps. The fence will be unreliable and shaky. The elements must be mounted on a transverse beam, which is located 10 cm above the bowstring. It turns out that the handrail bottom beam both the upper and lower cabinets form a frame into which flat balusters need to be inserted.
The crossbars need to be fastened every 15 cm, but no more. You can use two types of connections - in grooves and on metal studs. If the balusters will be inserted into the grooves, then grooves must be machined 2 cm deep on the lower part of the handrail and on the upper end of the cross beam. The length of the recess should be equal to the width of the baluster.
Don't forget about the slope of the stairs. It is worth knowing that the lower ends of the balusters should be smooth, but the upper ends should be cut to the angle of inclination of the stairs. It is on the cut ends that the handrail will be attached.
Balusters are attached to metal studs if it is not possible to mount a cross beam. In this case, there will be no gap of 10 cm between the cross beam and the steps. The height of the balusters in this case should be 90 cm. The baluster is attached to the step with one pin; during the work it is important to attach the element evenly, without distortions. For these purposes, you can use an angle.
After all the protective elements are attached to the steps, you can install the handrail. It uses timber, which is rounded on three sides and carefully polished.
The last stage of creating wooden railings for the stairs is finishing. For this you can use acrylic paints, varnish, stain.
A beautiful DIY staircase is ready.