Drawings of bench models of ships. DIY wooden ship models

Create Model old ship you can do it yourself without buying a ready-made design for assembly. In order for the result to turn out to be of high quality, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.

materials

To make a historic ship with your own hands, prepare:

• plywood or cork;
• thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
• wood glue;
• paper;
• pencil.

In this model of the ship, not plywood, but cork wood was used as the basis. The choice was due to the ease of working with the material. Unlike plywood, which requires a saw to cut it, cork wood was simple. sharp knife. You can also take thin strips for work from any material, they just need to bend well. Joiner's glue should not be replaced with either hot or even super glue.

Step 1. On paper, you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can also print them if you find layouts suitable for you on the Internet. Please note that your ideas may change slightly during the course of work. This is not critical if you just want to build a ship in vintage style rather than repeat an exact copy of a particular vessel.



Step 2. For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. The ship itself was also assembled. Most of the time was taken by the manufacture of the central part of the ship. Then the front, back and deck parts with the mast were made.

Step 3. First of all, according to the already existing sketches, make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure that all of its edges are symmetrical. If there is a slight deviation somewhere, correct these flaws. Check that the ribs are exactly at an angle of 90 degrees when attaching.





Step 4. After the skeleton is ready, start decorating its side parts. To do this, glue a long rail along the center line of the side part. Focus on it further when you glue the rest. Reiki is better to stick in stages to make your work easier. Apply enough glue, but make sure that it does not flow down the slats. Fasten the rails additionally with clamps, leaving them in this form until the glue dries completely. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and continue gluing the rails in the next section.







Step 5. All places where gaps are formed between the rails, work out epoxy resin. All the details of the ship, as soon as you are ready, cover with varnish for wood.



Step 6. After the main work, proceed to the finish. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, carefully glue the rails over the places with obvious defects to hide them. You can make from rattan horizontal line, emphasizing the smooth forms of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.



Step 7. Masts must be made from wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. There will be two masts in the ship. Adjust the rods in advance to the calculated dimensions. To attach the masts, cut out two pieces of wood measuring 4 x 2 cm. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. From small rods, make a reinforcing lattice and assemble the entire structure completely.





Step 8. Make a template for the deck of a ship out of paper and build a deck part from wooden strips based on it. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill holes for attaching the masts. Insert and glue the masts. From plywood, make the side rails of the ship.





Step 9. Glue the wooden strips on the front and back of the ship in the same way. They need to be glued on the side and in the deck part, and rods and handrails should be made from pieces of plywood. All parts are fastened with carpentry glue. Do not forget to raise the back of the ship with steps.

In modeling, plywood is the most popular material. It's connected with high rates quality and ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut, quite simply processed. Using a suitable scheme (drawing), you can make ships out of plywood with your own hands.

Plywood is universal material which is easy to cut and process different ways, therefore, it is with plywood patterns that it is recommended to start your acquaintance with modeling.

Building a ship on your own is quite an interesting activity. But in order to get started complex models, you need to work out on lighter ones.

Materials and tools

To create stucco patterns on board the ship, you need to prepare your own composition from which reliefs can be formed. For the solution it is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials:

• wood dust;
• PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
• plasticine to create small irregularities and patterns;

Materials and tools that are used during ship modeling:

Birch plywood will ensure a minimum number of chips when sawing.

• plywood of the required thickness;
• Super glue;
• sandpaper for surface treatment;
• kapron thread;
• jigsaw for cutting parts;
• construction knife;
• mast wood. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
• dye;
• brushes are not large sizes;
• Chinese sticks;
• fabric for sails;
• a thread;
• pencil ruler.

Modeling wood should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular option is cedar, linden, walnut. All wooden blanks must be perfectly even, without knots and damage. It can be used as additional element to create decorative pieces. Also, wood can be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck, hull.

Plywood in modeling is the most demanded material. In such a direction as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not give chips during sawing. To make a boat out of plywood, you need to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.

A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.

Veneer - sheet material, very thin, made of precious wood. In most cases, veneer is used as a facing material. They paste over products that are made of inexpensive material.

Fasteners will perform not only the main task of fastening parts, but also perform a decorative role. To create a boat model, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass studs. In order to transfer the drawing from sheet to plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. So the drawing will turn out detailed. Glue must be used to fasten the plywood parts. Fine detailing can be made by metal casting, use polymer clay or independently prepare a solution of wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, such a mass is very durable, and it can be painted in the desired color.

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Preparatory work

If you are modeling a plywood ship for the first time, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the details are already cut and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with great desire and diligence, experience can be gained in the process of assembling your ship. Modeling, like any other type of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing to start with is what kind of ship will be modeled. To begin with, it is worth looking at various drawings and finished work, this will greatly facilitate the choice of model.

Having studied the drawing completely, it is worth checking the presence of all necessary materials and tools to get the job done. Modeling ships is a piece of jewelry. It takes a lot of time and perseverance.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates for all the details. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. On this preparatory stage work can be considered completed.

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Parts manufacturing

In order to make all the details, cut them out of plywood sheet, you must use the appropriate tool. You can use a manual jigsaw for work, but if possible, it is better to use an electric model version. Using the second option will significantly reduce the time to manufacture all the elements. This is especially true for the smallest details.

Sawn blanks are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.

In order to cut the part, a hole is made in the plywood into which the jigsaw file is located. It is worth cutting out all the details very carefully, while observing all the contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut details can then ruin appearance the entire ship. Each sawn workpiece must be processed with a file from the ends. In the process of such cleaning, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.

It is necessary to assemble the ship when all the details are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out the missing details.

Probably each of us in childhood read books about pirates. These were sea robbers who plowed the seas and oceans, attacked merchant ships, and lowered all the booty in port taverns. These books were filled with intrigue, a special romanticism and a sense of adventure. For some people who are interested in the topic of piracy, a childhood hobby has grown into a permanent hobby, which is expressed in the manufacture of wooden models sailing ships. This is an extremely interesting activity, and finished models are an excellent element of interior decoration. For example, you can make a miniature copy of the famous pirate frigate, which sailed the famous pirate Francis Drake, who went down in history as one of the most famous corsairs of all time.

Who is Francis Drake?

In the Middle Ages there were a huge number of pirates, however, only a few managed to keep the memory of themselves. One of the famous corsairs was an Englishman Francis Drake nicknamed the "Iron Pirate". He began his pirate career at a very young age as a ship priest, after which he served as a sailor, and at the age of 16 he became the captain of a ship. During his life he visited in large numbers sea ​​campaigns and was able to win in no less number of battles, including with the English Royal Navy, therefore among the pirates he was considered a very successful, experienced and formidable captain.

Under the command of Drake there were several ships, among which the flagship was a galleon with three decks and five masts, which was called the "Golden Hind", which means "Golden Hind". The captain personally chose this name, since the ship was so fast that it could catch up with any merchant ship and hide from the pursuit of warships. It is thanks to its high speed and excellent maneuverability that the ship gained its popularity.

A little about modeling

The creation of miniature models of ships takes place in stages. Each stage aims to create individual elements sailing ships, which are subsequently combined into single structure. This process is very painstaking and requires from the creator not only the utmost concentration and perseverance, but also the manifestation of imagination, since very often it is necessary to change the materials used or replace them with others that are more suitable for specific model. In addition, in order for the model to turn out to be more realistic and copy the original as best as possible, you should be careful with the sizes of the originals, which take a lot of time to find and transfer to the layout.

Making a wooden model of a ship: what is required for this?

To create models of sailing ships, you can use various techniques, however, the most common is the manufacture of prefabricated parts carved from wood. This process is quite complicated and requires a certain set of tools. In order to make a ship model from prefabricated parts, you will need a knife, a hammer, a chisel, a drill with a set of drills, wooden block, a piece of thin fabric for sails, a rope, a wooden capstan of the required length, wood glue, and when making large-sized models, it will be useful to stock up on a saw.

carving of a ship from wood

At the first stage of modeling, blanks are made, from which the model will be assembled in the future. To do this, you need a chisel and a hammer, with which you need to remove the old bolts, as well as sandpaper or a file to make the bar perfectly smooth. Next, you should clean the bar from the bark. In order for the work to go quickly, and not to get injured during its execution, it is necessary to keep it towards the planer.

When the blank for the future ship is ready, you can proceed to the next stage of modeling. You need to apply a sketch on the bar with the markings of the future ship, and then cut out the ship's hull from it. It is worth noting that this will require a well-sharpened knife, the blade of which should be at an angle of 10 degrees with respect to the bar. Despite the fact that this part of the work is one of the easiest in modeling, nevertheless, it is also the most responsible, because when performing it, you have no right to make a mistake. Therefore, slowly remove the wood in small layers, trying to keep the workpiece symmetrical.

The carving of the bow and sides of the vessel

When the preliminary layout of the ship's hull is ready, you can proceed to the jewelry part of the work. On the workpiece, you need to draw the side parts of the hull, as well as the bow and stern. This is done in the same way as described above. First, everything is drawn with a pencil, after which it is cut out with a knife. At the same time, it is necessary to try to make all parts even and smooth so that the layout looks like a ship as accurately as possible. In the manufacture of the bow, one of the sides of the bar is slightly filed, after which it is shaped into a saw cut.

Preparing the model and installing ship gear

The ship "Golden Doe" had three masts, so on the model you need to drill three holes for them, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the thickness of the spiers. The distance between the holes must be the same and sufficient so that the bar does not crack during drilling. If suddenly a crack appears, then it is better not to glue it, but to redo the model again, since cracks will spoil the whole appearance of the ship. In order for the masts to stand securely and not fall, it is better to put them on wood glue.

Raise the sails!

At the final stage, the sails are set. Since our galleon model has only three masts, only six sails are required - one large and one small for each of them. For their manufacture, you will need thin matter, from which you need to cut the sails according to the given sizes. Sails should be trapezoidal. Before installing them on the mast, you need to make notches on the spiers, after which the sails are planted on glue. Both edges should be glued strictly in the middle of the sails. To make the process as comfortable as possible, and the result does not disappoint you, it is better to start setting sails from the rear mast, moving gradually towards the bow one.

To decorate the sail, you can use the flag or the upper sail, which is called flying. Everything is clear with the flag and no one will have any problems with its manufacture, so there is no point in describing the process of its tailoring. But the flying sail deserves special attention. To make it, you need to cut a rhombus out of fabric, resembling a kite in its shape. Next, two perpendicular threads are glued to the part, which connect opposite corners. decorative element, and a thread is attached to one of the corners, with the help of which the flying sail is fixed on the back of the main sail. It is worth noting that a flying sail can be made both for the aft mast and for all the others. It all depends on your wishes and perseverance.

When the ship model is completed, it can be painted in Brown color and open with varnish, after which it can be at least used to decorate the interior, at least launched into the water.

Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

manufacturing

CHINESE JUNK

CHINESE JUNK
So we got to the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate sizes.
since I made the ship by eye and did not pay much attention to the size. I didn't write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torment you with marine terms, because I myself am not strong in them, but I will write in a generally accessible language. Well, you know the basic terms. Such as deck, mast, yardarm, keel. Here we will begin our work with the keel, but first we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer and lay it on some kind of plywood or board, and smear it well with glue. We fix with buttons so that the sheet does not curl up when it dries. Getting to the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back is 8 cm. If the dimensions in height are more than anything terrible, you can always cut off the excess. After the keel has been cut out, we will process it with sandpaper a little. We will remove the gloss, and if there is a texture coating, then we will remove it completely.
Spread glue on one side and leave to dry. You can spread with two, whichever is more convenient for you. While everything is drying, we are marking the edges of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next, we proceed to the veneer of the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I tell. The veneer is cut into strips slightly larger than the width of the keel. We turn on the iron at full power, but so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We put the veneer on the keel and smooth it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and clean it with sandpaper stuffed on a bar.
After the keel has been veneered, we will make the deck and we will make the rest of the ship's ribs. The length of the deck is 45 cm, the width is 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the rounding of the bow. We measure 11 cm from the back, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the back of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we begin to trouble with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved with inside then the height of the ribs will naturally change in relation to the inner part of the keel to the deck. I'll try to explain the best way to do it. Myself
I understood only when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We lay the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. We mark 8 cm from the front as well as from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should go something like this
rear side 8 cm, front 5 cm. On the front of the keel we make a step to stop the deck (photo 5). Next, try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn the keel to the top. We find the lowest point between the keel and the deck and set the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you install the ribs. We make the next edge. It will be installed at the beginning of the rounding of the front of the deck.
The width of the rib is 16 cm. We measure the height from the deck to the keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and that is 5 cm. Next, we take the first template blank. We lay down on the rectangle of the future edge, combining the upper part and the right upper corner. We outline along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The workpiece height will change but the main configuration of the rib
will remain. We also do the back part and one edge between them. After that, we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is true from the back. After the ribs are ready and fitted, we glue them, let them fix and glue the deck.
When all this is done, we make inserts between the ribs around the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and rear of the ship. After that, we cut off a piece from the veneer sheet according to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We proceed to the most time-consuming work, veneer the bottom of the ship with stripes. I have them
the width is 6 mm. We take the prepared sheet of veneer and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out the burrs and small irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part
ship one to one to the bow and to the back of the ship with an overlap. Preliminary prayers with fresh glue of the place of gluing. Here's what we got. Now we will clean everything up and proceed to the manufacture of additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the rounding and protrudes by 3 cm. The width of the bow is 9 cm. The width of the part from the rounding is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
Rear end it also starts from the rounding, it is equal to 16.6 cm, it protrudes by 4 cm. The width of the back is 9.5 cm. Additional decks have now been glued in the current order (you can also glue them with an iron).
We glue the front of the deck first. Then we fan it. After that, we veneer the main deck before rounding and installing the back of the additional deck. Next, glue the back. It can not be veneered as it is covered with deck superstructures. The decks are glued, rounded off and we proceed to the manufacture of the sides of the rear of the model. We cut off two strips 4 cm wide. You will determine the length yourself. Starting from the point of curvature. The back of the board has a deployed
angle 105 degrees. After the strips are cut out, we make cuts on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and smear with glue. The glue has dried, we begin to veneer. We cut two strips of veneer in width and glue them with an iron, while bending them along the contour of the deck. The side boards are done, but since they need to be deployed, we carefully grind them at an angle, trying them on to the deck. Then we glue them. Making the back of the board will not be difficult for you. Next, we move on to
deck superstructure at the rear of the model. The photo shows how it looks. The superstructure deck configuration must be integral. A little explanation for the photo. Side
the pads should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After we made the deck, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and fitted, we glue them to the deck and then glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and after that we veneer it. Next, we make the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The back of the sides will no longer be deployed, but at a right angle. After the last deck was made, glued and veneered, we make
final boards. With the rear deck superstructure finished, go to bow models. We also do the front sides with
angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The boards were installed and glued. We proceed to the manufacture of an insert with windows and top platform. Top platform dimensions. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) the width of the front part is 12 cm. It protrudes 6 cm. The back part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we made a platform and an insert with windows, we glue them. Then we veneer the site. Next, we make the sides of the central part of the model. Cut off 2 strips, veneer them on the inside, mark
cannon ports and cut through them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm above the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneer the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. With the ladders finished, we move on to the railing. Strip mode 4 mm wide. We veneer them from three sides, glue them 1 mm away from the edge, sawing them down. Next, we mark them out and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that, we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode but only the edges are veneered. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly higher than the rest. This is to make marking easier.
They drilled a hole, tried it on a pilaster, marked the rest of the points for the pilasters. Once all railings are in place. Cut off the excess, clean and
veneer. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we veneere the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. We proceed to the marking and installation of masts. The length of the masts is up to you. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. To be able to drill a hole for installing a flagpole from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we proceed to its staining. We fix those parts that you consider necessary. Finished with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). It remains to varnish the model, make the sails, and then install them. For sails, we need material, a piece of drawing paper for a pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for tailoring and repairing clothes. I hope you cope with the manufacture and installation of sails.

Some people have a strange, but very remarkable and colorful hobby. It is called assembling ship models from wood. What does it take to make one like this? beautiful thing. It is not so easy to create a model from a tree. From this article you will learn how to create from wood with your own hands. And we will also make a short digression into history.

Francis Drake

Many history buffs know the name "Iron Pirate" England was his homeland. He became the captain of a sailing ship at only the age of 16. At first he was a ship's priest, and then a simple sailor. But his fame really thundered when he became a brave and very formidable pirate. In the 16th century, he made quite a few voyages and took part in a considerable number of battles.

Golden Doe

At the dawn of fate, several sailing ships arrived at his property. His main flagship was the Pelican. This ship was a five-deck three-masted ship. On board there were 20 artillery weapons. All sorts of maritime stories rarely tell us that a ship that already has a name can be renamed, but it was with the "Pelican" that such a story happened by the will of fate. In 1578, Francis Drake changed the name of this ship to "Golden Hind" (in Russian, this name sounds like "Golden Doe"). It was under this second that he was inscribed in sparkling golden letters in world history sailors. Francis Drake did quite a few dizzying deeds on it, which were later told in history and adventure books.

It is such wonderful ships that make many people assemble ship models from wood with their own hands. Drawings of many similar structures often found on the internet. So, inspired ancient history seafaring we will learn from this article information on how to do something similar.

Do-it-yourself wooden ship model: from the beginning to rainbow horizons

In fact, the history of modeling consists of several stages. Moreover, each of these stages is associated with several features. A lover of miniature shipbuilding needs to be able to change available materials. It is also important to expand the choice of modeling objects. After he has developed enough, then he may have mass production models. The next step will be the development of poster exhibition modeling from those sets that he already has. Subsequently, you can develop to the formation of individual segments. It can be anything - from ship models and in the flesh to copies of individual motorcycles, trucks, as well as all sorts of other cars.

Do-it-yourself wooden ship models: drawings, instructions, tools

So, well, let's start creating such a ship. Carving prefabricated ship models from wood is not an easy task. You will need many tools for this. Among them are: a knife, a chisel, a hammer, a bar (and, if necessary, a saw), a thin cloth, superglue, a long wooden spire, a rope, a drill. In addition, you will need two more very important parameters. Firstly, it is time, and secondly, an important quality of those people who are engaged in creating prefabricated models of ships from wood is patience.

carving of a ship from wood

First you have to work with a chisel. You have to file everything and remove the old bolts that have a flat head. It won't take you much time - just two minutes. In these two minutes, the pre-finished block will later become a boat. Now you need to clear the bar. You should carefully scrape off the bark. Hold the bar itself directly towards the tool. Let's take standard design as an example for our small ship models, which we will build according to the principle below. Take a pencil and sketch a preliminary sketch on the bar. Following this, process the bar with a sharp knife. The tilt of the blade itself should be at an angle of approximately 10 degrees. When you plan, keep in mind that this is not the most easy job and so be patient. You should not forget that if for any reason you make a mistake, then it will be quite difficult to correct everything. Remove the chips layer by layer, while you should try and process the original bar as smoothly as possible. It is important that the top Bottom part must be parallel.

Please note that you do not have to throw out the chips at all. The fact is that, in principle, it can be used as additional material as mulch.

Carving of the front and sides of the ship

Well, now we need to draw the front, bottom, as well as the back. We will cut them out in exactly the same way as above. It is necessary to make these parts even. In order for you to get the bow of the ship, you will have to saw off a piece from the front. Following this, you must round the saw cut with a knife. When you make the nose, try to tilt the knife blade itself back. It should be directed towards the stern.

Drilling holes and subsequent installation of equipment

You should have several spiers. Therefore, drill a number of holes, they should be slightly larger than the beams themselves. It is important that there are not too many holes. Otherwise, you may develop a crack. And because of the crack, as you know, a severe disaster can occur - go to the leak. Do not use glue! If you do this, then further work pass with much more difficulty.

Setting the sails on the model

Decide, for starters, exactly how many panels you want to get on your final vessel. Let us take as a condition that we will have four panels for the first mast and the second, and three for the last. Following this, take a few wooden spiers and cut them. Cut the fabric into a trapezoid shape. Then start gluing them. Make notches on the branches of the sails, fasten each branch with a corresponding notch. Then glue the middle of the edges to the sails. Repeat the same for all masts. It is best if you build the rear mast first, then the middle one, and then the bow one.

Now let's install the upper flying sail. Cut out a kite shape from the fabric. Take the thread and attach it to the opposite corner of the cloth. Leave ends on either side for all corners. Glue a small piece of thread exactly on upper part boat. It should be slightly higher than the bow of the boat itself. From the opposite corner, measure up to the middle of the lower branch of the sail on the forward mast. Then cut off the very thread that you measured and glue the tip to the appropriate place.

On each side, you should leave a few threads. Pull them back and glue them straight inside the boat. Then you can cut off the excess rope. Create and attach the back panel in the same way. It must be attached to reverse side rear sail. Measure, cut, and make sure it fits over the two lugs. Then glue them on the corners.

Well, now you have learned how to make the simplest ship models out of wood. And although in this article everything is described only in in general terms, we hope that it will help you in your future career as a "shipbuilder". Unless, of course, you are interested in it. Trust me, it's worth it!