Types of planers and their purpose. Manual planing

The rest have almost the same device, differing from each other in the cleanliness of the workpiece surface and the thickness of the removed layer of wood.
For example, the thickness of a layer of wood removed by a planer, leading a rough planing, is 2-3 mm, a jointer, which is used to complete the leveling of the surface, is up to 1 mm.

Flat surface tools
For planing this type of surface, the following tools are used:
- sherhebel;
- single planer;
- double planer;
- jointer;
- grinder;
- cynubel;
- cycle.

Sherhebel
This tool is used for roughing workpieces across the fibers and at an angle to them.
The metal part of the sherhebel has an oval cutting edge, which makes it possible to plan with this tool across the fibers of the workpieces, preventing their longitudinal rupture.
The metal part should protrude beyond the plane of the sole by 3 mm. With its help, thick chips are removed.
The tool leaves rather deep cuts on the processed surface.

Single planer
A single planer is used when leveling the surface of the product after applying the sherhebel.
The metal part of the tool has a straight blade and somewhat rounded ends. This is necessary so that they do not leave marks on the wood.

double planer
The use of a double planer - clean planing, cleaning of serrated places and scuffs, touching the ends.
Unlike a single planer, it has one more metal part - a chipbreaker (humpback). The edge of this part is parallel to the cutting one. Depending on the required cleanliness of planing and chip thickness, it is set at a distance of 0.5-2 mm from the cutting edge.

Jointer
This tool is used when aligning edges along the length (joining) for their subsequent gluing, as well as when it is necessary to accurately process large planes for a ruler.
The jointer is a shortened double planer, in which the filler angle is increased and the span is reduced. Most often, this tool has a double metal part.

sander
The sander is used for processing high-density pressed wood, removing very thin chips, as well as cleaning up ends, scuffs and frizzy places.
The grinder is a shortened double planer, in which the additive angle is increased and the span is reduced.

Tsinubel
To create a rough surface wooden blank before sticking facing plywood on it, use a cynubel.
When veneering, this prevents strong extrusion of glue and the possibility of weak gluing.
The tool is a planer with a single metal part, cutting edge which is made up of small teeth.

It is difficult to imagine carpentry work without the use of special tools; this purpose is served by a planer, sherhebel, jointer and other specialized devices. Each of them performs its own tasks. It is impossible to manage carpentry work only with a planer.

All types of planers for rough and fine woodworking

Different types of planers are used for various types of wood processing. Most often used for carpentry:

Pioneer for wood billet

Scherhebel is a real "heavy artillery" among carpentry tools. It is used for planing wood that has not previously undergone any processing. When planing with a sherhebel, only the necessary shape and dimensions of the workpiece are achieved, but to achieve a smooth, flat surface will not work. For this purpose, other types of planers are used.

With the help of a sherhebel, only rough processing of the wood surface is performed. Unlike a planer, it allows you to plan to a greater depth, easily cutting off even significant irregularities. The design of the tool, outwardly resembling a conventional planer, has its own features that make it easier to perform rough processing. wooden surface. Unlike other tools, the sherhebel iron has a rounded blade and is set at an angle of 45 ° to the sole. The sharpening angle may vary depending on the hardness of the wood being processed.

For planing soft rocks a sharpening angle of 25-30 ° is sufficient; for processing hard rocks, the blade is sharpened at an angle of 35 °.

In the standard design of the sherhebel, the blade (iron) has a width of 35 mm. Sizes may vary on some models. The width of the pad is larger than the blade size by about 15 mm. The chip hole in the sherhebel is larger than in the planer, about 3-5 mm. As noted above, rough wood processing does not allow to achieve a flat, smooth surface. The blade will leave groove-like marks on the wood. To eliminate them, a planer is used, finishing.

How is a wooden and metal sherhebel arranged?

The sherhebel block can be made of wood or metal. Depending on the material of manufacture of the pad, the design of the tool will vary slightly. Wooden sherhebels are produced in accordance with GOST 14666-79. In accordance with the standard, their design includes a rectangular body, horns for resting hands during work, a knife, a clamping wedge for the blade, a sole, a cork. The design of some models may additionally include a stop for the blade. Surface wooden elements in the design of the sherhebel, it is varnished, which provides wear resistance and an increase in the service life of the tool.

In accordance with GOST, the following materials are used for the manufacture of sherhebels:

• block - made of hardwood;
• sole (according to GOST 2695-83) made of hornbeam, maple, ash, beech, white acacia;
• pad pad - from the above wood species, as well as birch, elm;
• knives are made of double-layer steel. The main layer according to GOST 1050-88 from steel grade 30, or according to GOST 1435-99 from steel grades U8, U8A, U9. For the cladding layer, steel grades 9KhF, 9Kh5VF, Kh6VF, 9KhS are used (in accordance with GOST 5950-2000). It is also acceptable to use other steels that correspond in terms of resistance to the grades listed above.

In the metal version, the body is cast. The handle-horn is tightly fixed in it. To support the carpenter's hands during work, a large handle is installed. The knife is fixed with a screw connection between the clamp and the base of the body. Unlike wooden models, metal ones are more wear resistant. However, craftsmen prefer to use wood carpentry tools as they provide the best quality processing.

How to use the tool correctly?

The use of sherhebel is rough planing of wood. During this operation, chips are removed from the workpiece by means of reciprocating movements of the plow. A tool in a metal case processes hardwood or chipboard blanks. Experts advise to perform the main work on wood processing with tools in a wooden case, as they provide better sliding on the surface of the workpiece.

The design of the sherhebel is distinguished by the presence of a rounded blade, which allows you to remove significant unevenness from the surface of the workpiece. ty. In this way, wood is prepared for further processing and fine leveling. Unlike carpentry planers, sherhebels have big sizes. They are massive and heavy.

To provide quality processing workpieces must be carefully fixed. The best way to do this is with carpentry workbench. If this is not possible, you can use regular table to which the workpiece is attached with clamps. The place of processing should be located as close as possible to the vise. During operation, smooth, even, reciprocating movements are performed. The force is applied while the tool is moving forward. The return movement allows you to return the tool to its original position, so it is always performed passively, without effort.

If the blade of the planer is dull ...

Not only the workpiece should be prepared for work, but also the tools and fixtures used. The knife must be sharpened at the required angle (depending on the hardness of the wood being processed). The position of the knife in the body carpentry tool must be carefully adjusted. The sharpening of the cutting blade is carried out on a bar fixed on a workbench or table. It is necessary to draw along the bar with the lower edge of the knife (bevel). The pressure is applied when moving away from you, while the chamfer should be completely adjacent to the stone.

You can not change the angle of sharpening, as the chamfer will acquire an uneven width, it may become humpbacked. Planing done with an improperly sharpened knife will be of poor quality. During sharpening, burrs form on the surface of the chamfer, which are easily felt by touch. To eliminate them, the knife is turned over with its front side and moved along the surface of the stone with light straight and circular movements. After that, the burr is formed from the chamfer side. The knife is turned over.

Work continues until the burrs are gone on both sides. The last step in sharpening is straightening the blade on a whetstone moistened with water. Processing is carried out in a circular motion. First, the chamfer is corrected, then the front part. When sharpening, distortions of the cutting surface should not be allowed. The appearance of such a defect on the knife leads to a deterioration in the quality of planing, crushing of chips, clogging of the gap between the knife and the block. If a distortion is detected, it must be immediately eliminated by grinding off the high part and leveling the surface.

One of the representatives of a large detachment of tools designed for planing wood is a planer. IN Lately planes equipped with a metal block are becoming increasingly popular. They may have a single or double knife (called a piece of iron). As a rule, the width of the piece of iron standard model tool is 50mm. If you use this tool quite often, then it is better to purchase another piece of iron to replace it. In addition, it is desirable that you have a spare sharpened blade on hand. Thanks to this, in the process of working with wood, you will not need to be distracted by its fine-tuning and sharpening.

Types of planing tool

Although the tool described in the article is rather unpretentious and a simple tool, you will eventually realize that each of them definitely has its own character. In order for the planer to be flexible, its sole must be protected, and the knife should be periodically sharpened, protected from large knots and nails.

In addition to a copy with a metal block, it would be nice to have a model equipped with a wooden block - they are a good choice in stores. It is better to immediately specialize in work related to the finishing of wood. To do this, he must have a double piece of iron, i.e. with chipbreaker.

If coarse chips are required, then a sherhebel is used. It has a width of a piece of iron of 35 mm (often it is installed obliquely or rounded). This device very useful for the primary processing of a bar or board.

The sander is intended for cleaning already planed surfaces in those areas where there are defects in the structure of wood. Outwardly, it resembles a shortened planer, equipped with a double knife, which is installed steeper than conventional planers. With it, you can remove very thin chips after gluing the parts. It is also used to remove corner joints, sags.

Jointer has long been used by carpenters for finishing wooden elements, especially long ones. The length of the jointer is almost three times the length of a conventional planer, and the width of the knife is 65mm. A home craftsman, having gained some practical skills, will be able to process a variety of wooden parts with a very high quality with the help of a jointer.

Semi-jointed

You need to know that there are still half-joints. Its length is shorter by about 10 - 12 centimeters, and the width of the piece of iron is the same as that of a planer. This tool is also good in business. It should be borne in mind that when using these tools, the main indicator of quality planing is the length of the chips. When you just start planing new surfaces, the chips turn out to be intermittent. However, as the surface being machined is leveled, the chips should become long, even, and curly.

Carpentry tools are also quite specific. Of course, in recent decades, they have been significantly replaced by milling, planing and other types of machines. However, such machines are not necessary for every home craftsman (and they are expensive). In case you really like to craft something with my own hands, then you should acquire at least some types of hand tools. Today there are quite a lot of them on sale - both artisanal and factory-made. Such devices may be needed during internal finishing works when the master wants to re-process each plane or edge of the board with care and love.

Combs, as well as grooves on the layers or edges of the parts, are selected using a grubber. This tool is especially suitable for deburring and grooving trapezoidal grooves (dovetail).

Fillets are used for sampling grooves on wooden parts. The sole of the shoe of this tool has a convex shape. If we talk about calevka, in which the sole is multi-stage, and interchangeable knives have different profiles, it is rather professional tool. You are unlikely to need it. Moreover, various wooden slats decorated by means of mutilation are very widely represented on sale, because. it is a mechanical product.

We think that it also does not hurt to get a hunchback. This is the name of a planer with a concave or convex surface. The humpback blade is straight.

You may also need a staple. Its knife and the sole of the block have a concave, rounded shape.

It is likely that someday you will want to use a tongue and groove. This tool is quite complex. Its design consists of two plates (wooden), interconnected by screws carved from wood. With such a device, it is convenient to create “groove-comb” joints (only rectangular, not curly), to choose a tongue and groove in boards and slats. The body of the tongue and groove, in addition to the wooden one, can also be metal. Such a modern instrument is smaller, lighter and more versatile than its wooden counterpart. Very useful in the household.

The Falzgebel and its close relative the zenzubel have stepped soles. These devices are needed by developers in cases where the purchased window frames turn out to be executed rudely and clumsily (agree, this often happens). In this case, the frames should be disassembled (most often they are not glued), the cavities should be planed and cleaned with sandpaper. Zenzubel or Falzgebel will help you process the quarters into which the glass is inserted.

In our advanced age, many craftsmen acquire electric planes: stationary models or lightweight manual. Such a purchase is very reasonable, especially if you have a large front of carpentry and joinery in your suburban area. However, do not forget about manual modifications - they can also be of great benefit.

sharpening

Sharpen the planer tool in the direction from the blade to the back of the bevel. When sharpening, it must be applied with the entire surface - this way you will avoid distortions. Do not sharpen without water, i.e. on a dry grindstone, as well as on grindstones in which big number revolutions. In this case, a thin blade will “burn” and, as a result, deteriorate.

Make sure that the blade of the planer protrudes from the plane of its sole by the thickness of the chips being removed. If this tool is not wooden, but metal, then the knife is adjusted by means of a screw.

To obtain a flat, clean and smooth surface, the wood is planed manually or mechanically.

but- block; b- planing knife; in- wedge; 1 - shoulders; 2 - cheeks; 3 - letok; 4 - bed; 5 - sole; 6 - span (slot); 7 - handle-horn;

For manual planing of wood planers are used. They are divided into planers for planing flat surfaces and for planing profiled surfaces (see figure above).
Plane has a wooden block, lower part which is called sole. To install the knife and exit the chips in the block, a nest is provided - notch. To get the cut chips into the notch, the sole of the block ends with a slot 5-9 mm wide, called span. The narrow slot (span) of the block allows you to get a smooth surface of the wood. To reduce the width of the span, the sole at the slot is fixed with a hardwood insert. Knife they are fixed in the block with a wooden wedge resting on the shoulders of the let-hole of the block. The knife is firmly and evenly pressed against the shoe wedge resulting in a high quality surface finish.
Planer knives are made of U8A or U9A steel. The front of the block has a wooden horn, and rear part jointer pads - handle. The block and wedge of the planer are made of hard hardwood(pear, ash, maple, hornbeam, beech, white acacia, etc.). Planer pads are made of metal.
Sherhebel, single and double planer, jointer, semi-joiner, end planer, tsinubel are used for planing flat surfaces.

but- sherhebel; b- single planer; in- double planer (schematically longitudinal section); G- jointer; d- double planer knife with chipbreaker: 1 - blade, 2 - chamfer of the knife, 3 - screw for installing and adjusting the chipbreaker; e- cynubel; well- a sole and a planer knife for processing ends; h- two-handed planer;

Sherhebel is intended for rough planing. They treat the surface of the wood after sawing (figure above, a). A knife with an oval-shaped blade, inserted into the block at an angle of 40 °, cuts thick chips. The width of the knife is 30-40 mm.
Planer with a single knife(figure above, b) is intended for planing after sawing or processing with a sherhebel. Knife width - 50 mm, straight blade, cutting angle - 45°-48°. Planer block length 250 mm. Chip thickness - 0.05-0.1 mm.
Planer with double blade(picture above, c) differs from a single planer in that a chipbreaker is attached to its knife, which allows you to get a cleaner surface. The knife is inserted into the block at an angle of 60 °. The end of the chipbreaker close to the blade of the cutter produces fine chips and a smooth surface finish. Firmly screwing the chipbreaker to the blade prevents chips from being pinched. The cutting angle of the planer with a double knife is 45°-50°.
A surface finished with a double planer is of better quality than a surface machined with a single planer. A planer with a double knife is used when planing the curly wood of the ends of the blanks.
Jointer(figure above, d) is intended for planing workpieces of great length, with high surface finish, for example, when leveling the edges of boards that are glued together. Jointer block length - 700 mm, knife width - 60-70 mm. A spherical-cylindrical plug in the front part of the block serves to knock out the knife from the notch after being hit with a hammer.
Jointers with a block length of 500 mm are called semi-joiner. They are designed for planing short parts. The cutting angle of the jointer and semi-joiner is 45-50°.
two-handed planer(figure above, h) serves for rough planing. It has two cylindrical handles for two-handed work, when workers sit on the material being processed facing each other. The width of the knife of such a planer is 60-70 mm.
Tsinubel(figure above, e) is used to increase the bonding area before veneering by roughening it. The edge of the tsinubel knife has small teeth. Cutting angle 80°. Zinubel is a shortened planer with a single knife, if you insert a knife with a chipbreaker, it can be used to plan parts at an angle to the end of the workpiece.

1 - knife; 2 - pressure plate; 3 - overlay; 4 - paw; 5 - handle

(picture above). They clean the surface of hardwoods after planing with a double planer (zinubel with a double knife) or cleaning the surface of parquet floors. Cycles are made from a saw blade. Their length is 150, width 60 and thickness 1 mm. The cycles have a handle. Their blade is sharpened with a small file. The cutting angle of the cycles is up to 90°, allowing you to get a smooth and even surface.

Planing tools are called plows. Plows process rectilinear, curvilinear, flat and figured surfaces. Plows include planers (sherhebel, planers with single and double knives, zenzubel, folded gobel, etc.), jointers and cycles.

Planers consist of a knife, block and wedge. For ease of use, planers can have a horn and an emphasis, jointers have a handle. The purpose and dimensions of the planers are given in Table.

The sherhebel planer is designed for primary and rough planing of wood. Sherhebel cuts a layer of wood up to 3 mm in a narrow strip with traces of recesses in the form of grooves. The knife has a rounded cutting edge. They release the blade over the sole up to 3mm. Knife rounding R-35, knife thickness 1.9 and 3mm.

Sherhebels can be small-sized wooden with a knife width of 30mm and a length of 150mm, wooden with a knife width of 35mm and a length of 180mm, metal with a knife width of 35mm and a length of 100mm. Knife sharpening angle 25-30°.

A planer with a single knife is used for leveling the surface of wood after sawing and cutting off processing allowances. Often used after planing with a sherhebel. The blade is released above the sole up to 0.5 mm. Small-sized planers are made with a knife length of 150 mm and a width of 40 mm, wooden ones with a knife length of 180 mm, a width of 50 mm and a thickness of 4 mm, metal ones with a knife length of 100 mm, a width of 50 mm. Shoe length 205, 240mm, width 50, 65mm, height 50, 65mm. Horn height - 120, 150mm.

Knives for planers: a - sherhebel, b - single, c - tsinubel, d, d - zenzubel, e, zh-kalevka, s - fillets, i, k - folded gobel, l - tongue and groove, m - double planer, jointer, semi-joiner , n - chipbreaker installation

A planer with a double knife is used for clean planing when it is necessary to remove roughness and irregularities around knots, curly wood. This is achieved with the help of a thin cutting of the wood layer, additional support of the wood fibers with a chipbreaker, and a small passage for chips. Install the blade above the sole up to 0.3 mm. The length of the knife of a small-sized planer is 150 mm, the width is 40 mm, the usual one is 180 and 50 mm, the metal one is 100 and 50 mm.

Details of planers and jointers are made from the following materials: the sole of the block is made of hornbeam, maple, white acacia, ash or beech wood; lining of the shoe, horn, wedge, dowel - from the wood provided for the manufacture of the sole of the shoe, and from the wood of birch, elm or birch bark; handles - from birch plywood uncoated double-sided board of grade PF-A, grade AB or from multilayer wooden plates glued with mutually perpendicular directions of the fibers of adjacent layers and made of wood intended for the manufacture of pad lining; steel cork.

Table. Purpose and dimensions of planers

Planer length 205, 240 mm, height 50, 65 mm, width 50, 65 mm, distance from the leading edge to the span 97, 115 mm, width of the base and span 41, 51 mm, horn height with block 120, 130 mm, planer weight 620, 970g , stop height with block 80, 95 mm, dowel length 40, 50 mm, size from the sole (lower edge) to the center of the cork 24, 32 mm, distance from the front wall of the notch to the bed 90, 110 mm, size from the front bed to the side 22, 8 and 26.5 mm, the size of the semicircular cutout on the front face of the block is 40 and 45 mm, the width (height) of the side is 8-9 mm.

The optimal span width of planer and jointer pads is 7 mm, but not less than 5 mm. The width of the side at the top is 5-9mm. The wedges of planers and jointers have a slope of 1:4-1:6.

Planer with a single knife: 1 - block, 2 - clip, 3 - knife, 4 - stop, 5 - cork, 6 - horn

Wood must be of the first grade without cracks, rot, sprouting and wormholes with a moisture content of 10 ± 2%. Blocks of planers with a length of 205 mm are allowed to be made whole from wood provided for the manufacture of the soles of the blocks. The thickness of the sole of the block must be at least 12 mm. wooden and plastic parts planers and jointers must be glued with waterproof adhesives. Adhesive connection of the sole of the block with the overlay can be made on the main fugue or toothed connection. The surfaces of the tool must be covered with a light waterproof varnish.

Planer with a double knife: a - general form, b - body, c - block, d - horn, d - wedge, e - dowel, f - stop, 3 - cork, and - knife: 1-block, 2-horn, 3 - letok, 4 - wedge, 5 - double knife, 6 - stop, 7 - cork, 8 - fillet, 9 - dowel, 10 - overlay, 11 - sole, 12 - tap hole wall, 13 - span, 14 - base (bed), 15 - screw socket, 16 - protrusion (side), 17 - back face of the block, 18 - seam

Metal planers are designed for planing wood when performing carpentry and

carpentry. The body of the planers is made of cast iron, the clamp is made of steel, the handle and handle are made of phenolic plastic, polystyrene, hardwood lumber. Raw metal surfaces) of the planer body are covered with enamels of various colors, wooden surfaces - with NTs-218 varnish.

Metal planers: a - sherhebel, b - planer with a single knife, c - planer with a double knife: 1 - body, 2 - horn-handle, 3 - wing, 4 - knife, 5 - handle, 6 - clamp, 7 - base under the knife

The size of the removed shavings is regulated by the knife overhang. To do this, release the screw and move the knife up or down by the desired amount, and then fix the screw again.

The sander is used for very clean planing and in places where the structure of the wood is irregular (around knots, curl, slant, etc.). Insignificant surface roughness is achieved by a large cutting angle of up to 60 °, fiber support (span is made at a minimum of 5 and 7 mm) and a minimum thickness of the removed layer (no more than 0.1 mm). The block at the grinder has a length of 200 mm, a height and width of 60 mm, a cutting angle of 55-60 °, the back and front parts of the block are slightly beveled. Knife width 45-50 mm.

Zinubel is used for planing wooden parts intended for gluing. On the front edge of the knife, recesses (grooves) are made with a step and a depth of 1 mm for a length of 55 mm. Knife thickness 1.9-3mm, width 50mm, length 180mm. The cutting angle is 80°, the span is 4.5 mm, the length of the notch is 55 mm, the cork is located on the upper face of the planer at a distance of 30 cm from the end.

Combined planer (RKU-1) is designed for planing wood with a 35mm wide shirrebel knife and a 35mm wide single knife.

Tsinobel: 1-block, 2-wedge, 3-knife, 4-cork

The knife is pressed against the base with a metal plate and a screw. The fixing screw is connected to the shaft with a thread. The clamping screw passes through the hole in the threaded plate. The adjusting screw, by moving to the right and left, eliminates the distortion of the knife and, by rotating back and forth, sets the amount of blade release above the sole.

Block length 230 mm, width 50 mm, height 55 mm. It is made from birch or other hardwoods by gluing several layers of wood together.

Planer-medvedka is used for deep planing of beams, boards, logs during construction wooden houses. With the help of a bear, you can remove a layer of wood up to 1 mm, since the work is done together.

Combined planer: 1 - stop, 2 - adjusting screw, 3 - knife, 4 - clamping screw, 5 - pressure plate, 6 - fixing screw, 7 - horn, 8 - block, 9 - roller, 10 - fillet

Jointers are used for leveling surfaces of long parts and final clean planing, as well as for jointing individual wooden parts.

The design of the knife is the same as that of a planer with a double knife.

Bear planer: 1 - body, 2 - wedge, 3 - knife, 4 - handle

Semi-joiners are used for leveling surfaces, clean planing and jointing of parts. The design of the semi-joiner is approximately the same as the jointer, only the overall dimensions are smaller. A semi-joiner differs from a jointer in size along the length and width of the body. The mass of the semi-joiner is not more than 2.1 kg. Knife width 50 mm, length 180 mm. The knife has a chipbreaker. The shape of the knife is the same as a jointer or planer with a double knife.

Jointers: 1 - block, 2 - wedge, 3 - knife, 4 - cork, 5 - handle, 6 - lining, 7 - sole

A carpentry plow is used for roughing products from various types of wood, planing round blanks, edges of plastic materials, small areas of the floor, etc. It has a body with two handles, a fixing screw, a clamp in the form of a metal plate with a screw, a base for a knife. Knife 50 mm wide, 2 mm thick, 45 mm long. Knife sharpening at an angle of 30°. Cutting angle 35°.

Carpentry plow: 1 - body handles, 2 - knife, 3 - fixing screw, 4 - screw holding the knife, 5 - clamp, b - slot for the screw

The end planer is used as a regular planer when planing small surfaces of a confused structure, wood and for planing ends. The knife installed in it at an angle to the side surface facilitates the planing process and improves the quality) of processing. When processing a bar, in order not to chip off the ribs, the planer is not brought to the end or an auxiliary bar is applied.

Face planer: a - general view, b - planer sole

Preparing the planer for work

To determine the bluntness of the planer knife, you need to take the planer with your left hand with four fingers on the sole, and thumb on top of the block, turn the planer with the sole up so that the light falls on the chamfer and the blade of the knife, by turning the planer down or up conditionally around the cutting edge (blade) find a position where a white stripe of the cutting edge appears against the background of the darkened chamfer (bluntness radius). When the knife is turned in one direction, the chamfer darkens, in the other it brightens, and the knife blade is distinguished by a blunt line in the form of a rounded needle.

Trimming blanks: a, b - from two sides to the middle, c - with an auxiliary bar, d - position of the feet of the worker during trimming

Serrated, bent and dented blades can be detected by inspection or by feeling with the thumb of the right hand, running along the edge along the bevel. It is advisable to moisten your finger with water before doing this.

Planer knife sharpening

To form (sharpen) a chamfer, you need right hand take the knife by the end so that it rests on the palm of your hand, and put your thumb and forefinger on the edges, three fingers on the lower (back) edge of the knife, with your left hand press the knife against grinding wheel or a bar, set the knife at the required angle to the tangent of the circle and perpendicular to it. In this case, the chamfer must be in contact along the entire length and width. Grind off the metal layer until the notches, crevices, skew or oval chamfers disappear and a burr appears along the upper edge of the knife. Burrs are detected by touch when moving the thumb along the front edge of the knife or the bevel of the blade. Burrs can be seen when viewing the top edge against the light in the direction of the cutting edge. In this case, the rays of light should be directed along the knife to the cutting edge, and the knife must be rotated around the cutting edge.

When sharpening, it is necessary to hold the knife at a constant angle and, with a slight pressure, press the bevel to the sharpener with the entire surface, moving across the grinding wheel.

Periodically moisten the bevel with water so that metal particles are washed off and the hardening of the cutting edge of the knife is not released.

After sharpening a knife on a coarse-grained sharpener, traces of large grains and burrs remain on the blade. Therefore, the knife is finally sharpened on a fine-grained bar.

To form a bevel, you can use grinding machines ETSH-1 and SZSH-1, sharpening machine IE-9703B.

For sharpening (editing) on ​​a bar, you need to take the end of the knife with your right hand so that it rests on the palm, the thumb is on the left edge, the index finger on the front edge, the other three on the right edge cover the knife and support it on the back edge. Thumb the right hand supports the knife by the back edge, four are placed along the knife on the front edge at a distance of 1-2 cm from the cutting edge. Other knife grips are also possible. Then install the knife on the bar with the entire chamfer at an angle of 30-45 ° to the plane of the bar by changing the angle of inclination either up or down, you can control the angle of inclination of the knife during sharpening with a template, fixtures. Slightly pressing the knife against the bar, move it forward and then back. The movements of the knife can be along the bar, when the cutting edge is set perpendicular to the edges of the bar; along the bar, when the cutting edge is at an angle to the edges of the bar; circular. Sharpening should be carried out until a uniform edge appears on the cutting edge. thin layer metal (burr). The state of the cutting edge during sharpening and the formation of a burr must be carefully monitored, periodically wiping the tool and inspecting it, moistening the bar and chamfer with water. After sharpening, the blade should be straight along its entire length with softened corners (0.5 mm).

The corners are softened so that during operation they do not leave marks on the surface of the wood and do not cut off the chips, which, as a rule, get stuck in the notch, between the stop, the wedge (cheek) and the knife.

Sharpening planer and chisel knives: a - installing a knife on a bar, b - sharpening on a bar, c - editing on a whetstone, d - deburring from the front edge of the knife, d - template for checking sharpening angles, e - checking the quality of sharpening

The width of the chamfer of the knife being sharpened must be the same along its entire length in the form of a straight plane, that is, without an oval and recesses.

If the width of the chamfer is 3 times greater than the thickness of the knife, the sharpening angle is 19°, 2.5 times - 24°, 2 times - 30°, 1.75 times - 35°. The squareness of the blade and edges is checked with a square, by applying the base to the edge, and the ruler to the blade, and straightness - by applying the base to the cutting edge. The sharpening angle is made depending on the hardness and moisture content of the wood 20-30 ° and is controlled by a template.

For editing (grinding) on ​​the touchstone, you need to install the knife on the touchstone in the same way as when sharpening on a bar; pressing the knife with the entire chamfer to the plane of the touchstone, make circular movements; during editing, the touchstone and the chamfer of the knife should be periodically inspected, moistened with water or engine oil; after straightening the chamfer, the front edge of the knife is finished. To do this, the knife is placed on the touchstone with the front edge and pressed tightly against its plane, making circular movements. At the same time, the knife is moved with the right hand, and pressed against the donkey with the left. With the help of editing, burrs are removed, small notches on the blade and subtle grooves on the chamfer are leveled. It is necessary to edit the tool on the touchstone from two sides, from the side of the chamfer and from the side of the front face. The final finishing of the blade can be done on the machine using a paste applied to a felt wheel, or on a belt when manually polished to a mirror finish. After straightening, it is recommended to hold the knife blade with pressure along the end of hardwood or a knot, and then again do the fine-tuning on the whetstone. This eliminates the resulting thin blade, the so-called false sting, which causes blunting of the cutting edge at the very beginning of work.

Planer blade sharpness definitions

To determine the sharpness of the blade, a test is carried out using the feel of the nail. To do this, you need to hold the blade, without pressing, along the nail of the thumb. With good sharpening, the cutting edge cuts slightly into the nail, and if there are notches and roughness, they are felt when in contact with the nail. If the blade is burred and dull, the blade will slide over the nail.

Techniques for checking sharpness in the light are the same as when checking for bluntness.

To check the sharpness with your thumb to the touch, you need to run without pressure on the blade with the thumb of your left hand from the side of the chamfer and from the side of the front edge, and then straight along the blade. Notches, dents and burrs are felt in the form of roughness and bumps. A pointed blade glides over the skin of the finger like a smooth thread or the finger “sticks” to the blade.

To check the sharpness by trial planing (after assembly), you need to cut off two or three layers of wood and determine the quality of the planed plane and chips. The curvature (concavity, convexity) of the blades allowed during sharpening will give the appropriate profile on the wood and give uneven chips in thickness. Notches will leave stripes (hills) on the wood. Sharpness can be tested by cutting off the hair on the arm. If the hair cuts well, then the knife is sharp.