How to make a practical table from ordinary boards without being a “wooden craftsman. Table: material, manufacturing technology, diagrams, designs - simple and complex DIY terrace table drawings

In a modern interior, wooden furniture is often found - it adds coziness, such furniture is environmentally friendly and, with proper surface treatment, easy to clean.

The table itself is an extremely functional invention, in demand in the kitchen, in the workshop, and in the office.

A wooden table combines functionalism, environmental friendliness and aesthetics. Such an interior item can be made by hand.

If you intend to assemble the table yourself, the first thing you should pay attention to is the material of manufacture. Very rarely, a whole cut of a tree is used as an improvised material, much more often - wooden boards. Advantages this material: they can be sawn to the desired size at any construction base; it is also easy to take them to the place of assembly if you have a personal car.

Of the minuses you can only name the possible difficulties that may arise during installation, and also the fact that you should pay attention to the correct processing of the material - otherwise the boards may disperse and will not last long.

Sexual

This material is used for floor coverings, for sheathing buildings and premises, and, according to the topic of this article, for the manufacture of interior items. Advantages such material are as follows:

• most floorboards have a groove, as this is how they are fastened together.

  This allows you to fasten the boards into the tabletop without any problems, while the joints will be the same and look aesthetically beautiful;

• most of the edged boards have already been processed, so after assembling the table, you can not resort to additional painting or varnishing of the product;
• even if the floorboard is an ordinary edged one, it still fits with other boards better than the rest.

But the floorboard has limitations. For example, for a varnished board, the buyer can pay a larger amount than for an ordinary one with subsequent self-coating. The floorboard has a limited size, that is, its size will dictate the size of the countertop, or you will have to adjust the length yourself.

Important. It is impossible to make legs from a floorboard, only a countertop. This means that you will have to select a different material for the legs.

unedged

This board has jagged edges with bark, as it is made by a longitudinal section of a tree trunk. Such boards are cheaper, with their help you can achieve original design solutions. But at the same time, they require additional processing, and it is rather difficult to join them.

oak

They are distinguished by unique strength, density and resistance to many biological and physical influences. Very expensive, but in terms of service life, this material fully pays off.

Drawing

The drawing is necessary, because thanks to it the table will fit exactly into the room. Also, the drawing will allow you to calculate the amount of material needed. But first things first. What problems will the drawing solve?

1. Dimensions. If this is a kitchen table, and the kitchen is of non-standard sizes, and the table, accordingly, will differ from the standards.
2. Model. Despite the fact that, in general, a table is four legs and a tabletop, there are a huge number of options for how to make it. There are a lot of table models, types of tabletops and legs.
3. Consumable calculation. Having basic mathematical skills from the finished drawing, you can calculate the amount of material needed. So that after buying the board it does not turn out that there are a lot of scraps left, or that there was not enough material.

Advice. You can download the finished drawing from the Internet and modify it to fit your needs.

Instruments

To perform the work, you may need the following tools, which should be prepared in advance:

• hammer;
• chisel;
• hacksaw;
• drill;
• plane;
• nail puller;
• saw.

Advice. If further work with the tool is not planned, then you can not buy it, but rent it.

How to do?

After the material is selected, the drawing and all the necessary tools are prepared, you can proceed to assembly. When drawing up the drawing of the table, all its constituent elements, as well as fasteners, were highlighted. First of all, all the necessary elements are cut and turned in accordance with the dimensions indicated in the drawings. Then, after verification and measurement after manufacturing, you can proceed to the assembly of parts.

Important. Tools can cause damage. Observe safety precautions.

Assembly order quite simple, you can highlight the general steps, regardless of which model of the table you plan to assemble. The build steps are as follows:

1. Assembly of legs. The legs of the table, cut according to the drawing, are fastened with beams using self-tapping screws or nails. For greater reliability, the attachment points should be treated with glue, only then pulled off with self-tapping screws.

2. Attached to the leg structure countertop. To do this, planks are marked on the tabletop that fasten the legs, then with the help of self-tapping screws, nails, screws or fasteners, the tabletop is attached to the structure of the legs.

3. Installation horizontal screed. Many table models require a tie between the legs of the table so that they do not move apart.

Finishing

After the product is assembled, it must be processed. Processing is necessary so that the product is resistant to the effects of the external environment and lasts many times longer than without processing.

Product processing means its grinding and subsequent varnishing. Most often, grinding and varnishing are performed several times for greater reliability.

A photo

We offer to admire the possible results of the work:

Useful video

All manufacturing steps can be viewed on the following video

Conclusion

A handmade table made of wooden boards is a wonderful interior element that pleases the eye and provides comfort in the house.

In contact with

Dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, breathe in fresh air and just drink fragrant herbal tea on the veranda at a table made for giving with your own hands. Such a table will not only give a special charm to such a simple ceremony, but will also become a source of pride for you and your loved ones.

Option 1. Table with legs

When choosing materials for a table, first of all, you should pay attention to the quality of wood - not all wood is suitable for use. Softwoods, such as spruce and pine, are malleable and easy to work with, but such material is more flammable without proper processing, and the resins released can ruin the tablecloth.

Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous, products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.

wood species	Brinell hardness)	Density (kg/m3)	Stability	Color Trends
Birch	3,0	600	average	the color gets deeper
Larch	2,6	500	good	takes on shades of gray
European oak	3,7	700	good	the color gets deeper
	4,0	700	average	light to straw yellowish brown
Pear	3,3	680	average	blushes
Cherry	3,0	580	good	light pink to deep reddish tint

Materials and tools

For the internal arrangement of dachas and country houses, long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to move freely around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything necessary for work and designing the table itself.

For a table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. Two ready-made wooden shields 30-2000 mm in size can be purchased.

Balusters or wooden bars for legs. Curly balusters will give the homemade table a production chic and luxurious look. And for the manufacture of legs from a bar, you need to choose boards with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. A comfortable table height is provided with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.

Other materials and tools.

1. Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
2. Wood putty.
3. Screwdriver and self-tapping screws 30 and 50 mm.
4. Sandpaper of various grits, as well as a holder.
5. Clamps for fixing legs and countertops.
6. Electric drill.
7. Sander.
8. Building level.
9. Square.
10. Roulette or centimeter.
11. Marker.
12. Glue.

Prices for various types of building timber

Construction timber

Manufacturing steps

When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a planer, grinder or coarse-grained sandpaper to remove bumps, the remains of cut knots, and clean up cracks. The boards must be even and smooth, so they are sanded from all sides, including the ends, edges and corners.

If it is planned to manufacture a solid shield without gaps, then it is better to purchase grooved materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of a single web and save time on fitting elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the bars for the legs.

Table frame assembly

The frame helps to increase the strength and stability of the table, its dimensions completely depend on the parameters of the tabletop, but there are a few general rules: both in length and width, the frame should be 30-25 cm smaller than the tabletop.

Video - DIY garden table

The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 internal cross bars. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with 50 mm self-tapping screws. The joints are pre-lubricated with glue (PVA or carpentry). To prevent splitting of the boards, you can drill pilot holes in them and only then screw in the screws.

Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the cross bars, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the cross bars are smeared with glue, and the whole structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the screw heads do not protrude, but are completely “drowned” in the wood.

Table frame (manufacturing option)

The boards of the tabletop are connected, leveled with a tape measure and stacked face down on the floor, a frame is placed on top so that the cross planks lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the slats, and all elements are tightened with 30 mm screws. There are 5-6 self-tapping screws for each cross board.

Assembling the table legs

The tabletop is laid on a workbench or several stools for the subsequent installation of legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the frame.

Before attaching the legs, glue is applied to the end of the bar - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if desired, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws on the front side of the table, and square ones - on corner fasteners.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Finishing

After installing the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, corners are sawn off with a jigsaw along the radius or the end is completely rounded. Bevels can be cut from the edges of the tabletop and everything is carefully sanded.

If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired on wood. It is better not to touch the heads of the screws so that it is possible to tighten the structure.

After the final grinding, all dust and chips are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.

Tables with elements of decoupage decor or a single painting look beautiful and unusual. But you should not hide the beauty of natural wood under a layer of paint, modern varnishes and impregnations will do all the necessary work to protect the product from moisture.

Video - Table with legs for giving

Option 2. Stump table

An unusual and non-standard way to equip a backyard space is to create interior items from natural materials. When ennobling the territory, old or threatening trees are often cut down. If there is or was just such a tree at your dacha, then there will definitely be no problems finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in the clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.

Materials and tools

To make such a fantasy table from a stump, you will need quite a bit:

• wood for the countertop, the recommended thickness of the countertop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards, you must follow the rule “the larger the countertop, the larger the cut of the board”;
• stump. For work, you will need a dried stump of any kind of wood, the main thing is that the wood is whole, not damp and not rotten. If the tree was cut down recently, then the stump must be properly dried. And it is better to do this by placing the stump in a warm, dry room or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that several weeks is not enough time for high-quality drying. As a rule, the whole process takes at least two months. You can determine the condition of the wood by the ease of separation of the bark - if the bark moves away without effort, then you can get to work;
• water-based wood varnish in a natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and dignity of natural wood;
• sandpaper of various grain sizes and a holder;
• planer or grinder;
• chisel;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hammer and nails;
• screwdriver and screws;
• abrasive fibre.

Manufacturing steps

Stage 1.

The dried blank of the future table must be cleaned of bark. For this step, a chisel or chisel will come in handy. It is necessary to remove the bark very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the wood and prevent the appearance of cracks and splits. All soft and rotten areas also need to be removed.

Stage 2.

After the bark has been removed, the stump must be leveled relative to the horizontal plane. To do this, using a level, a flat surface is prepared, and the base of the future table is installed on it.

If curvature is observed, then the shortcomings are eliminated with a planer. At the same stage of work, excessively large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawn off with a hacksaw, the cuts from which are then polished.

Stage 3.

The leveled stump is ground with a disc grinder, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also polished, and hard-to-reach places are processed with coarse-grained sandpaper. This is a rather laborious process that requires a significant investment of time.

Stage 4.

Cracks and recesses in the trunk must be cleaned of dirt and dust with a chisel, after which they should be carefully folded in half (working layer outward) with sandpaper to carefully process them from the inside. The remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a building vacuum cleaner.

Stage 5.

To prevent rotting of the stump and ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of legs will make it more convenient to move the table.

You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to fix them with self-tapping screws to the base of the stump, the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.

Stage 6.

After installing the legs, we proceed to the crate of the upper part of the stump. To do this, we fill two parallel planks perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and on top two more rows of holders - a total of 6 planks fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the countertop.

Stage 7.

We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse slats. The shape of the tabletop can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. The winning option looks like a table with a round or oval top.

To give this shape, you can use a home-made device made of thread, pencil and nail: the end of the thread is tied around the pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining the circle with a selected radius, after which all the excess is sawn off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinder.

Stage 8.

Holes and defects in the boards can be decorated with finely chipped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and processing after drying again with a grinder to smooth the surface.

The finished tabletop is fixed from below on the crate with holders on nails or self-tapping screws matched to the size.

The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent flaking of the varnish, and subsequent layers will lie more evenly.

After removing the dust, the second and subsequent layers of varnish are applied without grouting. If desired, after drying, the last layer can be treated with abrasive fiber - this will remove excessive shine and give the surface a dull finish.

Such a creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.

Prices for paintwork materials

paints and varnishes

Video - Do-it-yourself table for giving from a stump

Beech - quite often used by furniture manufacturers, as it is a hard rock that is quite plastic and durable. In terms of strength, beech is not inferior to oak. Compared to oak, beech is cheaper. The color of such wood can be from reddish-brown to pinkish-yellow.

• has high decorative qualities;
• dries quickly;
• easy to process.

• afraid of moisture;
• poorly polished.

Oak is a hard rock with great strength. The natural color of oak stretches from yellowish white to yellowish brown with a slight hint of gray or green. Oak has a number of other advantages - very easy to use, easy to glue, practically does not rot and has a beautiful appearance.

• despite the high viscosity of wood, it is processed quite well;
• bends easily;
• decay resistant;
• lends itself well to artificial aging techniques.

• price;

Ash wood is harder than oak. The color of the wood is light and delicate golden. Most often it is used in the manufacture of bent and carved furniture or as a facing veneer.

• bends well after steaming;
• cracks a little when drying;
• when discolored, it acquires an unusual shade of gray hair.

• in conditions of humidity, wood is quickly damaged by a wormhole;
• poorly polished.

Aspen is a deciduous tree. It belongs to the genus Poplar. This is a very large tree, it grows up to 30 meters in height and may well reach a thickness of 1 meter. Since it grows very quickly, a lot of wood is obtained from it.

• very high moisture resistance;
• the ability to retain heat, but not give it away;
• bactericidal (you can put such furniture in the children's room without fear that it will harm).

• not very presentable appearance;
• the possibility of darkening, both partially and completely;
• it is worth fearing that the inside of the product may begin to rot.

Pine is a soft wood, which is most often used in the manufacture of frames for upholstered or cabinet furniture. The main advantage of this type of wood is its high resistance to decay, humidity and temperature extremes. In addition, pine is one of the most common and affordable materials.

• ease of processing;
• easy to glue;
• pleasant medicinal smell that releases phytoncides.

• easily scratched and damaged.

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from rotting is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The design is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. The table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the cavities are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, and in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is prone to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be "brought to mind", and spring - almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

Often, to create something new, we need the advice of other people. Have you ever made your own furniture for your home? Today we’ll talk about how to make a table for a summer house out of wood with your own hands. The variety of tables is so great that the manufacture of a writing or dining table has its own nuances. But there are also general tips that can be useful when creating this piece of furniture. There are several important aspects that should first be taken into account in this work.

• choose the right wood;
• choose the right configuration for your table;
• create a drawing and mark the necessary details and features on it.

The tree classification can be built as follows:

1. Soft type: pine, spruce, fir, cedar and other woods.
2. Hard type: oak, birch, beech, ash, maple, walnut, fruit tree wood.
3. Very hard type: boxwood, yew, dogwood, birch wood

According to the needs of different people, as well as in the case of individual distinctive situations, different characteristics of wood or its features are important:

1. Rot resistance.
2. The texture of the material.
3. The price of raw materials.

If your goal is to make furniture for a living space (rather than just practicing a skill), then you need to consider the quality of the materials without neglecting them. Dry lumber must be used. How it will be dried is up to you. Evaluate in advance whether you can dry the wood with high quality at home, but if this is not possible, it would be more profitable and wiser to order ready-made material. During drying, the wood will be deformed, this must be taken into account, but at the same time, the purchase of already dry wood is much more expensive. For high-quality shrinkage at home, you will need:

• constantly stable temperature conditions, otherwise the material will dry in waves;
• good ventilation in the room, no draft;
• it should be remembered that this process is very long, the material must be dried without shifting from place to place, for about six months.

1. Tabletop.

Here, strength plays an important role, as well as the absence or low absorption of moisture by wood. Optimum material: pine, oak. For a pine countertop, choose a cheap but high-quality material - without rotten areas, cracks, protruding knots and other unnecessary defects.

1. Table legs.
   

Optimum material: birch, it is she who is strong enough for a constant load, boxwood and acacia are also suitable.

To make a table made of wood, the material must first be processed with sandpaper. If you are just starting your carpentry career, it is worth using birch, pine, oak, acacia and boxwood in your work.

There are several advantages to using wood in construction:

• easily subjected to various processing;
• sufficiently resistant to changes in temperature and humidity;
• good depreciation: practically no chips and scratches;
• just undergoing restoration;
• eco-friendly material;
• the cost varies depending on the type of wood and processing methods;
• the material is easily sawn, cut, chipped off with special tools;
• does not require careful and constant care
• external aesthetics.

However, there are some significant disadvantages to keep in mind:

• the cost in comparison with other materials is much higher;
• the tree can be deformed under the influence of weight;
• without the use of special coatings, it is not resistant to mold and fungus, corrosion;
• wood cannot be called a moisture resistant material;
• over time, the above aesthetic appearance can be significantly lost.

Wooden tables: range of shapes and sizes

It is important to decide in advance what shape and configuration the table requires. Professionals advise to pay attention to several points:

• the table should fit well into the room where it is planned to be installed;
• think about how many people will constantly be at this table and what it will be used for, calculate the size of the product from this parameter;
• choose a folding version of the table if from time to time it will be needed for more people;
• consider the age and capabilities of people (for example, a table for children will be different).

The table can be of different shapes. In addition to different shapes, the table can also have different supports under the tabletop itself, in other words, a different number of legs.

• table with one leg - this type of installation is only suitable for a small product, it can be used, for example, for the manufacture of a children's table;
• a table with two stable legs - this kind of table is good for a rectangular or oval tabletop, but it is rather uncomfortable and unstable for constant use in everyday life;
• a table with four legs - this is the most common type, has the greatest (in comparison with the others) stability, suitable for both dining and writing, and a coffee table - is the most versatile type of this type of furniture.

In order to guess the most successful table size for any room, you should always take into account and keep in mind the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room itself and that part of it that is the maximum allowable for placing this piece of furniture, as well, of course, you should take into account the wishes of the owners.

Features of the assembly of wooden tables

There are several types of manual assembly of wooden tables.

• o on dowels (attached with glue);
• o on drawers (required on tables that are subject to periodic analysis);
• o bolted (similar connections are used mainly for garden furniture).

Workshop and woodworking tools

1. room

There are several characteristics that are necessary when organizing your own workshop:

• work should be carried out under some kind of canopy, ideal: a garage or a barn (otherwise there will be too much dependence on the weather);

1. you need to make a high-quality hood, otherwise the dust will constantly settle on the finished product and you will not achieve smooth lines or high-quality finishing of the material. In addition to dust, the hood allows you to eliminate the toxic smell of varnishes and wood paints.

Instruments

• an electric jigsaw gives greater accuracy in cutting wood than a saw;
• swivel miter box facilitates corner cutting;
• the grinder is universal in use and is clearly required for the manufacture of wooden furniture;
• a hand mill is required when processing holes;
• impregnating and other compounds.

Consumables for working with wood: varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

• used motor oil is a great option for impregnation, but, unfortunately, is not suitable for a dining table;
• it will be optimal to impregnate with a water-polymer emulsion twice, with a break of three to five days;
• water-based acrylic varnishes outperform older furniture nitrocellulose varnishes;
• PVA has been proven superior to bone carpentry glue.

Wood table options

1. Wooden table with benches.

• It is required to assemble the table cover: the boards are attached to the crossbars with self-tapping screws (it is important to use self-tapping screws as opposed to nails, since the latter contribute to the destruction of the wood surface).
• After that, the legs are fixed to the crossbars, which must be strong and durable in order to withstand the weight of the table itself and the people sitting on it, thus, the minimum thickness will be 4 centimeters).
• Then it is required to fix the side rails to the legs, on the basis of which the benches should be built, fastening them with bolts, and not with self-tapping screws, for greater strength.
• Next, we fix the benches and proceed to the subsequent processing of furniture.

There are several drawbacks to this invention that must be kept in mind:

• If a person on one side stands up abruptly, then all the products will literally fly towards the other.
• It is also not very comfortable to sit at this type of table.

You can improve this design so that its quality becomes unsurpassed, but we invite you to evaluate the idea and the project!

1. Pallet board table.

If you have boards of different sizes, colors and, possibly, even tree species at your disposal, you can make an interesting design out of them by organizing the elements in a special way: alternating, grading, creating your own logic for building boards. Among other things, also use rejected dry boards. The side parts of the pallet can act as a good frame, and the rest of the assembled tabletop. We recommend that you carry out this work in the yard or garage with an exhaust hood due to the large amount of dust settling everywhere.

• For legs, use a beam with a thickness of more than five centimeters. Pre-prepare all the tools and parts you need for the job: the tree needs to be sanded exactly along the fibers with sandpaper, starting with coarse, and then moving on to finer grain, carefully removing dust. Next, you need to paint the boards with acrylic or oil paint, apply the desired stencils, symbols or paintings. After that, carefully coat with varnish, repeating this procedure several times and dry.
• An attractive rustic style table should be assembled from pallets (also called wooden pallets). In the event that a non-aqueous varnish is used, it is enough to apply two to three layers, while in the other case it is required to apply more times, up to about ten. After completing the varnishing of the elements, it is worth moving on to the installation, which consists of several steps.
• We fix the tabletop with planks, we firmly connect the boards to each other and fix them with self-tapping screws. It is mandatory to use a drill so that when using self-tapping screws the tree is not damaged. Then we coat the joints with glue, we process the entire countertop with special means that protect the tree from decay.
• Last of all, we put the legs: we need to fasten them with self-tapping screws in order to learn the structure, we install jumpers at the bottom.

1. Wooden table with glued top.

For a glued worktop, you need to take boards of the same width. For this experiment, you will need grooves (and therefore a milling machine). Grooves are already present on old floorboards, if the appearance of the table is unimportant and its purpose is not for housing, it is worth using them.

• The boards need to be laid out on a completely flat surface, this is important for the further collection of the countertop.
• Thoroughly coat the sidewalls with glue, join, avoiding gaps between the boards, then pull off the resulting invention with special tools. Leave the product to dry for one to three days. If the operation of gluing the new countertop was carried out correctly, then the cracks will not appear. If cracks appear, then the countertop will spread even more.
• It is required to process the ends - first, trim them with a jigsaw, and then sand them. If there is no belt sanding machine, replace it with manual processing - sandpaper, first coarse, then medium grit. Then carefully lacquer the resulting furniture in several layers (about ten layers of varnish, after each third layer it is required to treat the surface with sandpaper and remove dust with a damp twig), in no case do not rush at this final stage, then installation of the product is required.
• It is required to make massive L-shaped legs. Take boards with a thickness of at least two and a half centimeters such that their thickness matches. Connect them at a ninety degree angle.
• On the boards to be joined, make a selection, coat the joint with wood glue, and then install the screws. After the glue dries, coat the parts with varnish and bring them together into the final composition.

Get creative and create a functional, practical and great-looking table in your own home! Such a standard piece of furniture can create a certain mood in the premises, ennoble your home with a special comfort! Choose your material and embark on a new adventure - inventing your own table, which, perhaps, will become a messenger for generations to come! If you still doubt that you can create your own table, you can imagine new furniture in your head, and then give it to professionals, and then, of course, also enjoy the resulting work of art!

Video: How to make a table with your own hands

Photo gallery: DIY tables made of wood

Of course, today everyone has the opportunity to buy any furniture in the store, including a table. But why not make it yourself, with your own hands?

This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In addition, you have the opportunity to make such a table that will ideally fit in size and appearance to the interior of your kitchen or other room.

In addition, do-it-yourself furniture is not only saving money, but also some kind of, but a reason for pride, since not every man knows how to make something these days.

What are the tables

If you decide from the boards with your own hands, then you need to figure out what types of tables are, and decide what exactly you need.

The simplest is an ordinary table with four legs, a table top and a frame. It will not be difficult to make it even for those who are not experienced in woodworking.

If you are experienced enough in this matter, you can make the dining table round or oval, decorate it with carvings, paintings, or burn patterns and patterns on the surface.

A more difficult option is from the boards. In fact, this is the same ordinary table, but rather thick and long crossbars are attached to its legs, on which seat boards are laid on top. So we get a table with benches on both sides. Such furniture is well suited for both the kitchen and for installation in the courtyard of a private house or cottage.

If the room has free space only in the corner, make a corner table that fits perfectly into this unoccupied space. It may not be as convenient to dine behind it as at a classic table, but you can put a TV, microwave or kettle on it - there will be enough space there.

Another interesting option could be a window sill table.

In fact, this is the same window sill, but significantly expanded and adapted, for example, for a convenient workplace for a schoolchild.

The advantage of this solution is that the table will be well lit for most of the day.

There is also a minus: sitting at such a table in winter, you will have to rest your feet on a very warm, even hot radiator, which is not very convenient.

Materials and tools

Buying everything you need to make a table with your own hands is quite simple and will not be difficult or expensive. The main material for the dining table is wood, or rather:

• Boards 25 to 50 mm thick, 100–150 mm wide, rather long.
  The thicker the material for the tabletop, frame and legs, the heavier, but at the same time more durable they will be.
  Choose boards from good wood, without any defects.
• Bar. It is necessary for the manufacture of table legs, so choose thick enough and strong samples. The beam can be replaced with the same boards, if you arrange them with the letter "G", or use purchased aluminum table legs. You can also use balusters (curly carved wooden posts that support the railing on some stairs) as legs.
• Chipboard or plywood sheets, which can be used as countertop materials. Choose samples that are thick and strong enough to withstand daily stress.

As with the materials And Do-it-yourself tools and fasteners are easy to get, they are in most homes. If something is missing, you can buy it at the nearest hardware store.

• pencil, corner, roulette and ruler;
• jigsaw or hacksaw on wood;
• screwdriver with a set of nozzles and drills;
• plane, if it is necessary to pre-treat the boards from irregularities and defects;
• kit self-tapping screws, furniture bolts and nuts;
• sandpaper or Sander;
• varnish or stain, roller or tassel for processing the finished table.

Attention! When working with a jigsaw, always remember the safety rules and keep small children or pets away!

simple plank kitchen table

First we need to make a countertop.
There are several options here:

• Cut out a piece of the desired size from a sheet of chipboard or plywood using a jigsaw;
• Lay several fairly wide boards and subsequently fix them on the frame;
• Take a large number of relatively narrow boards, place them side up and glue them together with wood glue.
  The result is a fairly thick, heavy and durable countertop.

Stages of work

Step 1. Collecting from boards countertop.

Step 2 We make a frame from boards or their wooden bars. In size, it can be made equal to the tabletop or with a slight indentation, approximately 2–2.5 centimeters on each side of the table. Having fastened the parts of the frame with screws, connect the frame with the tabletop with them.

Step 3 After we from put together the frame and the tabletop, half the table is ready. It remains to make only his legs. If a timber is used for this, drill two holes in it for furniture bolts. Moreover, they can be made both on the one hand, one above the other, and on two different ones for more secure fastening to the frame.

Important! Carefully check the length of the table legs, they should not differ from each other. Otherwise, the table will stand unevenly and stagger. If you do not want it to spoil the floor material, fix rubber “shoes” at the bottom of the legs.

After that, make similar holes in the table frame and fasten the legs and frame with bolts and nuts. Also, the legs can be fixed from above, using screws, but over time, this fastening may weaken.

If you want to make table legs from boards, fold two boards into an “G” on the outer or inner corner of the frame and secure them with all the same furniture bolts or screws.

To prevent the legs from loosening, connect the folded boards together at the bottom and middle parts with screws or nails.

That's all, simple and reliable, do-it-yourself, ready!

Advice: Before proceeding, make a simple drawing, preferably from several sides. Constantly check the dimensions of the parts. Some parts of the same size can be sawn out at the same time if you fix the boards or timber with clamps.

pallet table

Wooden pallets are widely used in shops and warehouses as cargo pallets.

If you wish, you can get a few pieces for free and use them as a basis for making an original and unusual kitchen table.

If at least one side of the pallet surface is solid, then you no longer need to make a countertop, it is ready.

You just need to process it and, if desired, round the corners.

Note! Since initially the pallets are intended for warehouses, no one is engaged in their grinding and cleaning. Therefore, before making a table out of them, carefully sand them and remove all burrs. Irregularities and defects of the boards can be hidden with putty.

Stages of work

Step 1. Most of the pallets are open and there is plenty of space between the boards. distance, due to which to use the surface of the pallet as countertop not too convenient. There are two ways to solve this problem: either boards appropriate size and to fix with their screws between the boards of the pallet, or install a sheet on top plywood or chipboard.

Step 2 As for ordinary table, table legs from pallets can be made from timber or boards. The best thing fasten them with thick enough and strong pallet beam with nails, screws or furniture bolts.

To prevent the legs from loosening, connect them to each other with crossbars.