DIY jet ski - drawings for a homemade jet ski. Water motorcycle Drawings of a Yamaha jet ski

In the mid-80s, small, high-speed, extremely maneuverable motorized vessels were widely advertised on television screens in many countries. common name“jet ski”: “jetski”, “waterboat”, “jet ski”. They immediately won the hearts of water sports fans, displacing fans of windsurfers, water skis and representatives of some types of water-motor sports.

However, it is quite difficult to replicate the design of a jet ski at home due to the high power requirements of the propeller-engine group of vessels (at least 35 - 40 hp) and the difficulty of reproducing hydrodynamic surfaces. For those who are excited about this idea, it is better to contact more simple designs. For example, read the publication on the water roller in No. 6 of the “Modelist-Constructor” magazine for 1991. If for a number of reasons this scheme is not suitable, then you can try to design the machine proposed below. It consists of a frame, two pairs (front and rear) of floats, a windshield fairing, an engine and a steering device.

The materials you will need are: polystyrene foam of any brand (preferably packaging), some plywood, old skis, several steel pipes, any motorcycle or moped engine, epoxy glue (3 - 4 l), fiberglass (4 - 5 m2), tools and... patience.

On flat surface(can be on the floor) you should depict the design of the jet ski in two projections (scale 1:1) and pre-cut the material (pipes and foam plastic) according to them.

Floats require special attention during manufacture. They are made from foam blocks, plywood root ribs and power fastening elements by sequential assembly and gluing. Then, using a hacksaw and sanding blocks, they bring it to the desired shape, cover it with thin paper and apply one or two layers of fiberglass impregnated epoxy glue(bottom to cheekbones - in three or four layers). Attach the floats to the frame using cross beams, made from ordinary skis (we used semi-plastic ones) and reinforced with lower duralumin shelves. Such beams reduce shock loads when moving. If they are insufficiently strong or the vessel is heavily loaded, they should be replaced with metal ones.

The frame is welded from seamless steel pipes (0 70 mm) in a protective gas environment and reinforced with transverse gussets. In the absence of pipes required sizes You can use small-diameter pipes (30 - 40 mm), only in this case the design of the load-bearing frame will have to be made spatial, which will complicate the work somewhat.

1 - front float, 2 - front fairing, 3 - steering device, 4 - gas tank, 5 - engine, 6 - seat, 7 - frame, 8 - rear floats, 9 - outboard engine installation option, 10 - exhaust pipe, 11 - transmission shaft, 12, 13 - transverse beams. 14 - fiberglass covering, 15 - root rib of the float (plywood, s5...6), 16 - filler (foam blocks), 17, 18 - power fastening elements for the floats (plywood, s5...6).

1 - pads (St3, sheet, s3), 2 - support for fastening the front floats (St3, pipe Ø32), 3 - step (D16T, sheet, s2.5), 4, 5, 6 - mounting brackets for the rear floats (St3, sheet, s3), 7 - frame parts (steel 45, pipe Ø 70), 8.11 - gussets (St3, sheet, s3), 9 - M8 bolts (6 pcs.), 10 - transverse rear float mounting beam (shown conditionally) , 12 - footrest mounting plate (St3, sheet, s3).

1 - lower beam flange (D16T, sheet, s2.2), 2 - upper beam flange (ski), 3 - M4 screw, 4 - cover plate (D16T, sheet, s2), 5 - bracket (D16T, angle 80x80x2.5 ), 6 - reinforcement of the float (plywood, s5...6).

1 - bolt M5, 2 - fork (D16, pipe Ø32), 3 - rudder blade (D16T, sheet, s2.2).

The steering device can be installed under the stern of the jet ski in classic version or, as we did using bicycle parts, directly on the same shaft with the steering column, which is much simpler. True, this significantly increases the effort on the steering wheel. The shape of the rudder blade is usually chosen to be close to a square. However, you can control the device with your feet, just as they do in a speedway or road circuit racing on motorcycles.

The engine, and it can be almost any (even from a starter, but with a power of no more than 18 hp), is mounted in the lower part of the frame near the driver’s feet. The propeller is driven through a shaft connected to the engine by a bevel gear. You can use any other gears, it is only important that the propeller shaft rotates no faster than 3000 rpm. Gas tank and others auxiliary elements engines will fit from an old motorcycle or moped. Mounting points to the frame for various engines (for example, PD-8M, Sh-62) are selected locally, but at least at three points. The best solution There will be the use of elastic fastening through shock absorber blocks with rubber-metal gaskets.

The exhaust pipe is located based on convenience and safety, insulated and secured to the frame with yokes. Thermal insulation includes asbestos sheet, three to four layers of fiberglass mat and a tin casing. But you can do it easier and refuse exhaust pipe, if you arrange cooling of the exhaust pipeline with sea water. In addition, supplying water under the cooling jacket will significantly reduce the noise level, especially for two-stroke engines.

Prepare a sleigh in the summer, and... a jet ski in the winter - why not? Alas, not everyone can afford to buy a jet ski, but since you can’t buy it, let’s try to assemble it yourself. This will not take as much time and effort as it might seem.

Let us renounce the use in advance, even though industrial models are usually made on this basis, the fuel consumption is too high - water travel on such a unit is very expensive. It is best to use a boat motor - there is cost savings and a sharp increase in functionality: whether for a long journey, or for water skiing, and the speed promises to be exciting. All you need is to select the screws for best rpm for the selected mode.

It’s as easy as shelling pears to assemble a jet ski using a system – two floats, a seat, a speed control lever, a steering wheel, and a cable control transmission. Please note that a good float is always made of polystyrene foam and externally lined with fiberglass and epoxy glue. 5-6 layers of fabric are placed on the bottom of such floats, and no more than three on the sides, this is enough. Special wooden frames located in the places where the seat and the catamaran are attached distribute the weight of the riders and the structure.

You can experiment a little, for example, equip your creation with a third float or work a little on the design - many “garage” developers produce very nice water bikes, moreover, high-quality ones.

3 float jet ski

The floats are made of polystyrene foam, power fastening elements, and root ribs made of plywood. The role of cross beams is played by the most common cross-country skiing– simple, durable, good load absorption. Here, of course, at your discretion, you can replace them with seamless ones steel pipes, at least for duralumin ones.

Classic jet ski

Lever-cable control system, just like the kit for remote control outboard boat engine. However, it uses a motorcycle handlebar, and the rotating motorcycle handle serves as the throttle lever.

Such a water horse can be transported on a rack on the roof of a car - its weight and dimensions allow you to save on an additional trailer.

Boat type jet ski

Such a creation can be used, for example, for fishing or swimming, or traveling around the water area. The wide hull will prevent the jet ski from turning over even when an adult climbs on it. Fairly good stability will help you stay afloat if a boat or boat suddenly floats by. On this transport, diverging waves are not at all scary.

What’s remarkable is that stability doesn’t really slow down speed. The hull is wide, but some jet skis of this type can be planeed using engines from 8 horsepower- for one person, more powerful motors (Whirlwind) - for two, and even a water skier on the back. Impressive, isn't it?

But there is a drawback here - you will have to fork out money for a trailer. However, loading/unloading a homemade jet ski will require the strength of only two people.

Select a drawing, purchase materials and try it out - summer is still so far away, but time will fly by when creating a water bike with your own hands. Wishing you a fast and safe ride.

Jet ski is very good summer fun, you can use it to rush around the pond, take girls for rides, and have fun. Of course, a homemade jet ski is not, it does not have such capacity, but, on the other hand, it is more preferable for entertainment on the surface of the water.

Jet skis manufactured industrially They have a water jet-based propulsion system, this is done to ensure safety. However, a water jet has poor fuel consumption characteristics, especially at low speeds, so using an industrial jet ski for water travel is expensive.

Another thing is a homemade jet ski!

Having made a homemade jet ski, you can go on a wide variety of tours on it. And what? Quite a summer trip!
When making a jet ski with your own hands, you can use more economical option and equip a homemade jet ski with a regular boat motor. This approach will allow you to use a jet ski both for high-speed “breezy” trips, water skiing, and for long-distance water travel. It is enough just to change the propellers, selecting them for the optimal speed of a given operating mode of the outboard motor.

The most simple view homemade jet ski is the use of a two-float catamaran system. In fact, you only need to install the seat, steering wheel, engine speed control lever and control cable transmission.

The floats of the catamaran are made of polystyrene foam and then lined with fiberglass and epoxy. 5-6 layers of fabric are placed on the bottom of the floats; 3 layers are enough for the sides. In the places where the catamaran is attached to the seat of a homemade jet ski, additional wooden frames are installed, which distribute the weight of the structure and the riders.

One more interesting project homemade jet ski is a project of a 3-float jet ski made by yourself.

You can follow the link at the end of the article.

The design of a 3-float jet ski is simple; the floats are also made independently from polystyrene foam, plywood root ribs and power fastening elements. Ordinary cross-country skis were used as cross beams. They are quite durable and absorb the load well. However, if desired, they can be replaced with seamless steel or duralumin pipes.

Another design that is more familiar in appearance, this homemade jet ski is assembled on the basis of classical technology: it is a frame-stringer frame, covered with 3 mm thick plywood and then covered with fiberglass.

A few words about the control system. A lever-cable type control is used, the same as that included in the kit for remote control of an outboard engine on boats; the only difference in controlling a homemade jet ski is that a motorcycle steering wheel is used, and instead of a gas lever there is a motorcycle rotating handle.

The dimensions and weight of a homemade jet ski allow it to be transported on a rack located on the roof of any car. This means that there is no need to purchase an additional trailer to transport a homemade jet ski from the storage location to the reservoir.

Download drawings of a homemade jet ski you can at the bottom of the article.

The third type of homemade jet ski allows you to use it as a small fishing or swimming boat and for traveling around the water area. The wide body of a self-built jet ski does not allow it to tip over even when an adult climbs onto it from the side. This same excessive stability allows you not to worry about boats and motor boats passing nearby; the waves diverging from them will not be able to capsize your homemade jet ski.

Despite the rather wide hull, the built jet ski is very playful; with one person it can go on plane even with an eight-horsepower engine! And after installing a more powerful Whirlwind, this homemade jet ski easily went out into the air with two passengers and dragged a water skier along with it.

The only disadvantage of this design of the jet ski is that a trailer is required to tow it. But loading and unloading the jet ski can be done with just two people.

In general, it’s up to you to decide which one to build a gyrocycle with your own hands. Maybe, based on ready-made jet ski drawings, you will decide to build a self-designed jet ski and share your information with us.

Download jet ski drawings Can

Magazine Modelist-Constructor

This is not quite ordinary small motor boat is a kind of hybrid of a motorboat and a motor scooter. From the first, the aquaroller received an increased seaworthiness hull with “deep V” contours, a flat ski, ensuring stable planing when various modes movement, and a bow that allows you to easily ride the wave with minimal splashing. Well, the method of seating the driver, the principles of course and speed control, and partly the technique of taking turns were borrowed from a motor scooter.

Frame small motor boat - the aquaroller is assembled using classical technology: it is a frame-stringer frame, covered with 3 mm thick plywood. So let's get started. First of all, a theoretical drawing is drawn on a flat, life-size sheet of plywood - the “body” projection. Then you need to prepare straight-layer pine slats with a cross-section of 15X30 mm - frame frames are assembled from them in accordance with the theoretical drawing.

It's done like this. To the plaza, covered with plastic film (it is necessary so that the glued frames can be easily separated from the plaza without rendering it unusable), slats are successively adjusted, as shown in the pictures of the frames, and each of the slats is temporarily fixed on a sheet of plywood with two small nails. Then, in accordance with the drawings, cut out the gussets from the same plywood and fix them on the frames with epoxy glue and 0 3x15 mm screws. The frame is separated from the plaza, and the same gussets are installed on the opposite side of the frame. It is advisable to lay foam plastic with epoxy glue into the cavities formed.

The last (ninth) frame - the transom board - has a different design. This frame is sheathed on both sides with three-millimeter plywood with continuous filling of the internal cavity with polystyrene foam, and the outboard motor mounting areas are covered with pine bars with a cross-section of 15X20 mm. The prepared frames must be secured on a flat board-slip with a cross-section of 50X300 mm using small nails and slats. Try to set the frames as much as possible, or more accurately, in accordance with the drawings - the symmetry of the body largely determines the performance of the aquaroller and its stability on course. The next stage of assembly is the installation of stringers, longitudinal elements of a set of pine slats with a cross section of 15X15 mm.

They are secured in the grooves of the frame frames with screws and epoxy glue. After the resin has cured, the frame is cleaned with a plane and a rasp: the protruding ribs of the stringer slats are brought flush relative to the imaginary surface of the body. It is best to start covering the hull from the bottom, or more precisely, from the ski. It will require a plywood strip 4 mm thick. The workpiece should be slightly larger than required for the body; after gluing, the excess material is carefully cut off using a plane (it is advisable that the piece of iron be sharpened literally to razor sharpness). Next, sections of the bottom are sheathed, then the sides, and lastly the deck and fairings.

This is done using epoxy glue and screws 0 3X15 mm with a “countersunk” head - preferably brass or galvanized steel. Screws and glue are used to attach triangular cross-section slats to the body - zygomatic and bottom longitudinal steps; they significantly facilitate the aquaroller's planing and increase stability in rough seas. The joints are rounded using epoxy putty. Using the same putty and polystyrene foam, the fairing in the stem area is also formed - the so-called “blade”.

Finally, the body is covered with fiberglass in one or two layers (the bottom to the cheekbones in three or four layers). If you can’t find it, any other one will do, even burlap. The fabric is carefully molded to the surface of the body lining using a hard brush. During the curing process, it is advisable to firmly rub the flap cut to its shape onto the corresponding area. polyethylene film. This method makes it possible to obtain a surface that requires virtually no further processing. The afterpeak hood is assembled separately and hinged to the seventh frame.

This makes it easier to install the control cables on the engine body in the future, and will also allow air bags to be placed in the afterpeak, ensuring the water roller is unsinkable. Such bags can serve as chambers for volleyballs or children's plastic “logs” in fabric covers - several pieces in one cover. The same air containers are placed in bow hulls - forepeak. A few words about the control system. It is of a lever-cable type and, in principle, differs little from the one that is sold in a kit for remote control of an outboard outboard engine.

The only difference is that instead of the “steering wheel” automobile type The aquaroller uses a motorcycle or moped handlebar, and the throttle control lever is replaced with a motorcycle rotating handle. Please note that this knob must be adjusted so that when it is released, it necessarily returns to the “low gas” position. Otherwise, if it accidentally falls, the water roller will rush off without a rider and cause irreparable trouble. The inside of the body is covered in two or three layers with hot drying oil and, after it has completely dried, with a layer of oil varnish. On the outside, after sanding and plastering, the body is painted with a layer of glypthal primer, and then two or three layers of glypthal enamels. Of course, with intermediate puttying, sanding and final polishing.

Payol (cockpit floor) - made of pine slats with a section of 10X30 mm. It is assembled using glue and screws and, after sanding and impregnation in two layers of hot drying oil, it is covered with oil varnish. The seat of the aquaroller is a plywood trunk box with a lid on which is glued a layer of foam plastic 20 mm thick and the same layer of foam rubber. The top of the seat is covered with artificial leather. The set of additional equipment for the water roller includes: life-saving equipment- for example, a vest or belt made of foam blocks connected with a nylon cord.

It is also necessary to have two oars on board. It is advisable to go out on the water for the first time with a “dry” engine. Sit in the driver's seat and, carefully rocking the water roller, determine the limits of its stability. It is best to do this in shallow water and with two people - insurance in this case is absolutely necessary. Once you are comfortable, start the engine. Moving at low speed, determine how obedient the boat is to the movement of the steering wheel.

It may very well be that the features of centering and mass distribution on your aquaroller will require the installation of a small plywood profiled fin in the front part of the body - make it easily removable and try to attach it to different distances from the transom board with intermediate experimental runs and control of the controllability and stability of the scooter.

As already mentioned, controlling an aquaroller is reminiscent of driving a motorcycle: when driving on turns, the driver’s body works in the same way, and the boat behaves “like a motorcycle” when cornering. Therefore, those who know how to ride a motorcycle or, at worst, a bicycle, will be able to master the water roller faster.

And one last thing. Please note that today not all bodies of water are “open” to motorized vessels; Therefore, before you start building a water roller, find out whether boats and motor boats can access the water area of ​​the body of water closest to you. By the way, the dimensions and weight of the boat completely allow it to be transported on the roof rack of any car. This means that for motorists, there is essentially no problem with a body of water closed to motorboats.

Rice. 1. Theoretical drawing of the body of the aquaroller.

Figure 2. Aquaroller body and frame design.

Jet skis are great for active recreation different types. Modern models are quite expensive. How to make a jet ski with your own hands? First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the structure of the model.

Simple jet ski

The usual model includes a body, frame, stops, motor and stringer. Many jet skis use a transom. It is fixed on brackets. The filler is quite often used from foam plastic. Models may have decks different lengths. If we consider the upper stringer, it is installed with a fairing. You also need to remember that the bottom of the models is glued protective layer. The keel part of jet skis is distinguished by wide stops. There is a hole on the housing for the steering shaft. In case of breakdowns, you can repair the jet ski yourself using a small set of tools.

Boat type jet ski

You can assemble a boat jet ski with your own hands. For this purpose, first of all, it is prepared bottom part housings. You can cut the bow rails yourself. While working on the stringer, you will need a grinder. A grinding machine is used to sharpen the surface of the bottom. Particular attention at this stage is paid to the keel part. You can make a pontoon for a jet ski with your own hands from bars. Upper part the housing is fixed with brackets. The hole for the steering column can be made using a jigsaw. Ultimately, all that remains is to install the motor.

Double float model

You can assemble a two-float jet ski with your own hands (photo shown below) only on the basis of a wide stringer. The deck in this case must be fixed on racks. At the beginning of work, the frame itself is prepared. The upper stringer can be fixed on brackets. Experts recommend using polystyrene foam as a filler. The lower stringer must have rivets. It is allowed to use D16 profile for the hook.

Three-float model

A three-float jet ski is made with your own hands with bow rails. For many models, the end wall is attached first. After this, you can fix the lower stringer. In this case, trapezoids are selected to have a small width. The top stringer is installed last. You can make a trailer for a jet ski yourself from metal sheets thickness from 1.5 mm. The nose fairing should be selected with a small thickness. The pads are most often made of foam. It should also be noted that during work you should pay attention to the steering column. The hole for the shaft can be made using a jigsaw.

Device with one transom stop

It’s very easy to make a jet ski with one stop with your own hands. For this purpose, a long stringer with a small profile is selected. The bow rail is attached first. It is more expedient to make the pads from foam plastic. It should also be noted that experts advise not to install the upper stringer right away. At the beginning of work, the deck is fixed. Overlays may be glued to a small width. The keel part of the jet ski must be well protected.

For this purpose, experts use fiberglass. In this case, the filler is usually made of polystyrene foam. Plywood directly for the body can be used from the C5 series. The bottom is most often processed grinder. Stripes should be installed at the top of the stringer. Transom stops are fixed in the keel part. In case of malfunctions, you can repair the jet ski engine yourself by removing the rear struts.

Model with multiple transom stops

To make a jet ski with several stops with your own hands, you will need a wide stand. First of all, the lower part of the stringer is prepared. At this stage, the surface of the material is processed with a grinding machine. Many experts recommend using foam filler. Overlays are fixed at the back of the stringer. The side stringer is mounted on brackets. It is also worth noting that the jet ski will require a frame. The keel beam can be safely taken from the D16 series. During deck installation special attention need to be given to the casing. At the end of the work, a hole is made for the steering column.

Jet ski with straight linings

Making a model with straight overlays is quite simple. For this purpose, a stringer is used with a low profile. In order to assemble a jet ski, the deck of the model is first prepared. Next you will need to install the bottom stringer. Experts do not recommend using a cheap sealant. The bow rail is mounted on a bracket. The bottom of the jet ski should be thoroughly cleaned with a sanding machine. The linings are installed directly on the side of the stringer. The hole for the steering column can be made at the end of the robot.

Model with oblique overlays

It is possible to make a jet ski with oblique linings only with long stringers. You should start assembling the model by calculating the length of the racks. If you select small stops, then trapezoids can be used with a low profile. Before installing the lower stringer, the bottom of the jet ski is completely sealed. In this case, you can immediately make a hole for the shaft to control the model. Decks in this case are installed on racks. The sheathing is most often attached with glue. It is recommended to fix the upper stringer on strips. At the end of the work, all that remains is to secure the transom. Repairing a jet ski hull with your own hands is quite difficult.

Model with fiberglass bonding

It is very easy to make a jet ski with fiberglass glued together. Stringers can be used in different lengths. At the beginning of the work, a board is prepared for the deck. It is recommended to sand the bottom well. Experts say that it is more advisable to use the upper stringer with a small profile. The end wall must be fixed at the base of the frame. Plywood for these purposes is suitable with the C5 marking. The covers on the jet ski are made of foam. Experts advise thoroughly cleaning the edges of the stringers. It is additionally important to carry out work on installing the steering column. For this purpose, the hole for the shaft is extended in the deck.

Double fairing device

If necessary, you can make a model with a double fairing yourself. Assembling the device should begin as standard with the blanks of the racks and the future bottom of the model. The lower stringer can be fixed on brackets. The upper overlays are glued along the side. Many experts recommend using C5 series plywood for a jet ski. It is also worth noting that the cutout for the shaft can be made at the end of the robot. Pasting should be done very carefully. In this case, it is important not to damage the integrity of the stringer. Jet ski transom of this type suitable with lining. It is also worth noting that the aft part can be made with a seal.

Model with long stringer

Devices with a long stringer can be made on the basis of a wide frame. For this purpose, not only a stringer is prepared, but also a board under the deck. Plywood for the stand is selected separately. The lower stringer is fixed on a bracket. The fairing must be glued strictly horizontally. It is also worth noting that experts advise using large rivets. The hole for the shaft is made using a jigsaw. To cut out the top stringer you will need a grinder. Transom boards can be made from ordinary plywood. To install the tie rod, you will need several holders.

Short stringer device

You can make a model with a short stringer yourself. Transoms of different profiles are suitable for it. It is recommended to start assembling the modification by preparing the supports. The transom will require a small stand. Plywood can be used in the C5 series. Experts say that the filler can be taken from foam plastic. Glue is used to install the overlays. The keel part of the jet ski must be thoroughly cleaned. The upper stringer is installed on the model using brackets. It is important to thoroughly polish the bottom of the jet ski.

Device with longitudinal steps

It is very difficult to make a model with longitudinal steps. The main problem in this case lies in the selection of the stringer. For jet ski the part will fit only with a high profile. If necessary, you can make the stands yourself using a grinder. It is more advisable to use plywood from the C5 series. Experts say that the bow handrail should be done at the end of the work.

The keel part should be located behind the steps. The upper stringer is fixed on brackets. The end wall must have overlays. It is recommended to use polystyrene foam as a filler. It is also worth noting that experts recommend using wide mounts for the transom. All this is necessary in order to remove the load from the keel of the jet ski. This will significantly increase the strength of the frame.