Types of sewing machines for the home. What are sewing machines
Each person chooses his own way of using modern technology. Most people assign purely domestic tasks to electrical appliances. The use of a sewing machine is knocked out of this row. These devices can act as a utilitarian high-performance tool, perform a task with a minimum of intervention, and serve as a creative tool. Types of sewing machine feet and their purpose - information that can help home craftsmen and craftswomen rediscover their familiar working tool.
What will be discussed
We will not consider the professional and semi-professional class of machines. They are usually equipped with many additional devices to perform operations of high complexity. For example, there is often an upper conveyor for feeding several layers of fabric, there are separate modes for processing loops, performing other work in semi-automatic or automatic mode.
Moreover, we will not touch on industrial devices. The description will refer to feet for simple household sewing machines. Sets of such functional devices can be easily purchased. For example, in the LADY SEW series there are dozens of sets, each of which has several paws designed for individual jobs.
By choosing a specific set, you can ideally meet your needs for creativity or functionality. At the same time, it is not difficult to understand which foot in the sewing machine for what, there is detailed instructions by use.
The foot is attached to the car quite simply. Most modern devices are equipped with a standardized holder. The complete foot is removed, a new one is installed, if necessary, its position is corrected. At this stage, the preparation of the machine for work ends, and you can easily perform sewing with the necessary operations.
What types of paws are
Describe all classes sewing feet very hard. There are really a huge number of them. Even within the same category, there is a large variation. For example, special quitting feet can be open and closed, made of different materials, have a different configuration from each other. Therefore, we will touch on devices, the use of which will be useful for most modern housewives.
- Zigzag. Quite versatile and convenient fixture. With it, you can make a straight line and the actual zigzag. Almost all major types of fabrics are processed, so most housewives often use this nozzle instead of the standard one.
- For stitching zippers. The foot for work with lightnings offers at once two modes of use. With its help, you can easily sew a fastener into clothes without fiddling with the turn at the bottom, the nozzle presses the fabric and makes it easy to track the stitch. To work from both sides, the device has two recesses for the movement of the needle. With this foot, you can also sew on the edging, while the wide one is processed in the same way as a zipper, and the narrow one is attached close to the edge.
There are many varieties of paws for lightning. They differ in both size and configuration of the anterior tissue sampling area.
Nozzle for hidden zipper solves another problem. When sewing on such an element of clothing, a thickening is inevitably formed on the fabric - it becomes difficult to stretch it. With the help of the foot, which has a recess for the passage of material, it is easy to sew, no effort is required.
- For knitwear. Knitwear is very delicate, it needs to be sewn carefully. The most common problem is picking up thread or fabric that falls directly into the needle grip area. The foot for knitwear has an additional stop, which cuts off the zone of movement of the needle. At good models on this part, a rubber (or silicone) pad is additionally installed, which handles the fabric very gently.
- For cords and tucks. A series of paws designed to create tucks have special protrusions on the sole. With their help, two tasks are solved at once:
- the fabric can be easily assembled, depending on the configuration of the nozzle, tucks with different geometries are obtained;
- it is very easy to form straight lines with a perfectly parallel arrangement.
Using such a device, you can also sew on cords for decorating clothes.
This can be done either with a foot with recesses in the sole, or with a special model where holes are provided for feeding cords.
Such a product works better and more conveniently, but is used only for one operation. - For bending. The processing of thin and light fabrics, such as silk, always has its own characteristics. One of them is the need to make a small hem so as not to make the product heavier and not change the geometry of the clothing elements. To solve this problem, the foot for a small hem is designed.
Such a nozzle will capture the minimum amount of tissue, gently bend it and feed it into the area of \u200b\u200bthe needle. At the same time, a minimum of effort and attention is required from the needlewoman. - With top conveyor. As the name implies, the purpose of the foot is to feed the fabric from above, in addition to the regular mechanism of the machine. In fact, the working method is somewhat different, but the result is acceptable: with the help of such a nozzle, it is easy to sew several layers of fabric without shifting them relative to each other.
For this class of presser feet, products are typical that additionally allow you to make stitches with an even distance between them. To do this, the nozzle is equipped with a stop, which is horizontally adjustable and acts as a kind of ruler. - For bias tape. Sewing on a bias tape is difficult. You need to evenly space the edges on both sides of the fabric. In the conditions when Bottom part not visible, only an experienced seamstress will do a quality job. A special foot will allow you to do this operation without difficulty. It is enough to insert the inlay, place the fabric in the foot and press the starter pedal of the machine. In the process of work, you only need to gently pull the inlay through the foot.
There are quite technological products that serve to perform really complex operations. Devices for creating assemblies, for example. 
They allow you to assemble the assembly and sew it to the fabric at the same time. Inexpensive models may require retrofitting the machine with a low-slung adapter and will definitely make you get used to the peculiar sewing mode. Complex and expensive mechanisms for creating assemblies allow the needlewoman to make a minimum of effort to create really high-quality products.
Conclusion
As mentioned above, it is very difficult to tell in full which legs for a sewing machine are. Among them are simple ones made of transparent material that enhance complex work, such as embroidery, by allowing you to track the overlap of the pattern. There are large-scale fixtures for creating circular seams. There are simple attachments for sewing on buttons, sewing at a certain distance from the edge, with cut-off knives. The use of each of them differs in convenience and efficiency. From the housewife, only one thing is required - to buy a set with the necessary devices, having thought before that and accurately assessed exactly what functionality she wants to receive.
On a sewing machine with this stitch running at 300 stitches per minute. A feature of the mechanism of this machine was that the needle moved horizontally, and the tissues to be sewn were located in a vertical plane and could only move in a straight line, which caused some inconvenience.
Paws
For sewing machines, the foot should press the material against the surface of the table so that when the upper thread is pulled out, it does not give freedom to the material. The paws exist in a wide variety, and vary depending on the shape of the sewn elements. Special feet exist for sewing on buttons, ribbons, zippers, for different kind hemming, sewing edges, darning, embroidery and so on.
see also
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Notes
Literature
- GOST 12807-2003 Sewing products. Classification of stitches, lines and seams.
- Sewing machine- article from the Great Soviet Encyclopedia.
- (Russian). Science and Life, No. 8, 2003. Retrieved July 18, 2010.
- S. Ganeshin.// Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron: in 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional). - St. Petersburg. , 1890-1907.
Links
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An excerpt characterizing the sewing machine
As if she had bypassed her kingdom, tested her power and made sure that everyone was submissive, but still boring, Natasha went into the hall, took a guitar, sat in a dark corner behind a cabinet and began to pluck the strings in the bass, making a phrase that she remembered from one opera heard in St. Petersburg together with Prince Andrei. For outside listeners, something on her guitar came out that had no meaning, but in her imagination, because of these sounds, a whole series of memories was resurrected. She sat at the cupboard, fixing her eyes on the streak of light falling from the pantry door, listening to herself and remembering. She was in a state of remembrance.Sonya went to the buffet with a glass across the hall. Natasha looked at her, at the gap in the pantry door, and it seemed to her that she was remembering that light was falling through the gap from the pantry door and that Sonya had passed with a glass. "Yes, and it was exactly the same," thought Natasha. Sonya, what is it? Natasha shouted, fingering the thick string.
- Oh, you're here! – shuddering, said Sonya, came up and listened. - I do not know. Storm? she said timidly, afraid of making a mistake.
“Well, she shuddered in exactly the same way, came up in the same way and smiled timidly when it was already,” Natasha thought, “and in exactly the same way ... I thought that something was missing in her.”
- No, this is the choir from the Water Carrier, do you hear! - And Natasha finished singing the motive of the choir in order to make Sonya understand it.
– Where did you go? Natasha asked.
- Change the water in the glass. I'm painting the pattern now.
“You are always busy, but I don’t know how,” said Natasha. - Where is Nikolai?
Sleeping, it seems.
“Sonya, you go wake him up,” said Natasha. - Say that I call him to sing. - She sat, thought about what it meant, that it all happened, and, without resolving this issue and not at all regretting it, she was again transported in her imagination to the time when she was with him, and he, with loving eyes looked at her.
“Oh, I wish he would come soon. I'm so afraid it won't! And most importantly: I'm getting old, that's what! There will be no more what is now in me. Or maybe he will come today, he will come now. Maybe he came and sits there in the living room. Maybe he arrived yesterday and I forgot. She got up, put down her guitar and went into the living room. All the household, teachers, governesses and guests were already sitting at the tea table. People stood around the table - but Prince Andrei was not there, and there was still the old life.
“Ah, here she is,” said Ilya Andreevich, seeing Natasha come in. - Well, sit down with me. But Natasha stopped beside her mother, looking around, as if she was looking for something.
- Mum! she said. “Give it to me, give it to me, mother, hurry, hurry,” and again she could hardly restrain her sobs.
She sat down at the table and listened to the conversations of the elders and Nikolai, who also came to the table. “My God, my God, the same faces, the same conversations, the same dad holds a cup and blows the same way!” thought Natasha, feeling with horror the disgust that rose in her against all the household because they were still the same.
After tea, Nikolai, Sonya and Natasha went to the sofa room, to their favorite corner, in which their most intimate conversations always began.
“It happens to you,” Natasha said to her brother when they sat down in the sofa room, “it happens to you that it seems to you that nothing will happen - nothing; that all that was good was? And not just boring, but sad?
- And how! - he said. - It happened to me that everything was fine, everyone was cheerful, but it would occur to me that all this was already tired and that everyone needed to die. Once I didn’t go to the regiment for a walk, and there was music playing ... and I suddenly became bored ...
“Ah, I know that. I know, I know, - Natasha picked up. “I was still little, so it happened to me. Remember, since they punished me for plums and you all danced, and I sat in the classroom and sobbed, I will never forget: I was sad and felt sorry for everyone, and for myself, and I felt sorry for everyone. And, most importantly, I was not to blame, - said Natasha, - do you remember?
“I remember,” Nikolai said. - I remember that I came to you later and I wanted to console you and, you know, I was ashamed. We were awfully funny. I had a bobblehead toy then and I wanted to give it to you. Do you remember?
“Do you remember,” Natasha said with a thoughtful smile, how long, long ago, we were still very young, our uncle called us into the office, back in the old house, and it was dark - we came and suddenly it was standing there ...
“Arap,” Nikolai finished with a joyful smile, “how can you not remember? Even now I don’t know that it was a black man, or we saw it in a dream, or we were told.
- He was gray, remember, and white teeth - he stands and looks at us ...
Do you remember Sonya? Nicholas asked...
“Yes, yes, I also remember something,” Sonya answered timidly ...
“I asked my father and mother about this arap,” said Natasha. “They say there was no arap. But you do remember!
- How, as now I remember his teeth.
How strange, it was like a dream. I like it.
- Do you remember how we rolled eggs in the hall and suddenly two old women began to spin on the carpet. Was it or not? Do you remember how good it was?
- Yes. Do you remember how daddy in a blue coat on the porch fired a gun. - They sorted through, smiling with pleasure, memories, not sad senile, but poetic youthful memories, those impressions from the most distant past, where the dream merges with reality, and laughed quietly, rejoicing at something.
Sonya, as always, lagged behind them, although their memories were common.
Sonya did not remember much of what they remembered, and what she remembered did not arouse in her that poetic feeling that they experienced. She only enjoyed their joy, trying to imitate it.
She took part only when they recalled Sonya's first visit. Sonya told how she was afraid of Nikolai, because he had cords on his jacket, and her nanny told her that they would sew her into cords too.
“But I remember: they told me that you were born under cabbage,” said Natasha, “and I remember that then I did not dare not to believe, but I knew that this was not true, and I was so embarrassed.
During this conversation from back door the maid's head poked out from the couch. - Young lady, they brought a rooster, - the girl said in a whisper.
“Don’t, Polya, tell them to take it,” said Natasha.
In the middle of conversations going on in the sofa room, Dimmler entered the room and approached the harp in the corner. He took off the cloth, and the harp made a false sound.
“Eduard Karlych, please play my favorite Monsieur Filda’s Nocturiene,” said the voice of the old countess from the drawing room.
Dimmler took a chord and, turning to Natasha, Nikolai and Sonya, said: - Young people, how quietly they sit!
“Yes, we are philosophizing,” said Natasha, looking around for a minute, and continued the conversation. The conversation was now about dreams.
Dimmler began to play. Natasha inaudibly, on tiptoe, went up to the table, took the candle, carried it out, and, returning, quietly sat down in her place. The room, especially the sofa they were sitting on, was dark, but big windows the silver light of a full moon fell on the floor.
“You know, I think,” Natasha said in a whisper, moving closer to Nikolai and Sonya, when Dimmler had already finished and was still sitting, weakly plucking the strings, apparently in indecision to leave or start something new, “that when you remember like that, you remember, you remember everything , until you remember that you remember what was even before I was in the world ...
“This is metampsikova,” said Sonya, who always studied well and remembered everything. “The Egyptians believed that our souls were in animals and would go back to animals.
“No, you know, I don’t believe that we were animals,” Natasha said in the same whisper, although the music ended, “but I know for sure that we were angels there somewhere and here, and from this we remember everything.” …
- May I join you? - Dimmler said quietly approached and sat down to them.
- If we were angels, why did we get lower? Nikolai said. - No, it can't be!
“Not lower, who told you that it was lower? ... Why do I know what I was before,” Natasha objected with conviction. - After all, the soul is immortal ... therefore, if I live forever, so I lived before, lived for eternity.
“Yes, but it’s hard for us to imagine eternity,” said Dimmler, who approached the young people with a meek, contemptuous smile, but now spoke as quietly and seriously as they did.
Why is it so hard to imagine eternity? Natasha said. “It will be today, it will be tomorrow, it will always be, and yesterday was and the third day was ...
- Natasha! now it's your turn. Sing me something, - the voice of the countess was heard. - Why are you sitting down, like conspirators.
- Mum! I don’t feel like it,” Natasha said, but at the same time she got up.
All of them, even the middle-aged Dimmler, did not want to interrupt the conversation and leave the corner of the sofa, but Natasha got up, and Nikolai sat down at the clavichord. As always, standing in the middle of the hall and choosing the most advantageous place for resonance, Natasha began to sing her mother's favorite play.
She said that she did not feel like singing, but she had not sung for a long time before, and for a long time after, as she sang that evening. Count Ilya Andreevich, from the study where he was talking to Mitinka, heard her singing, and like a pupil in a hurry to go to play, finishing the lesson, he got confused in words, giving orders to the manager and finally fell silent, and Mitinka, also listening, silently with a smile, stood in front of count. Nikolai did not take his eyes off his sister, and took a breath with her. Sonya, listening, thought about what an enormous difference there was between her and her friend, and how impossible it was for her to be in any way as charming as her cousin. The old countess sat with a happily sad smile and tears in her eyes, occasionally shaking her head. She thought about Natasha, and about her youth, and about how something unnatural and terrible is in this upcoming marriage of Natasha to Prince Andrei.
Dimmler, sitting down next to the countess and closing his eyes, listened.
“No, countess,” he said at last, “this is a European talent, she has nothing to learn, this gentleness, tenderness, strength ...
– Ah! how I fear for her, how I fear,” said the countess, not remembering to whom she was speaking. Her maternal instinct told her that there was too much in Natasha, and that she would not be happy from this. Natasha had not yet finished singing, when an enthusiastic fourteen-year-old Petya ran into the room with the news that mummers had come.
Natasha suddenly stopped.
- Fool! she shouted at her brother, ran up to a chair, fell on it and sobbed so that she could not stop for a long time afterwards.
“Nothing, mother, really nothing, so: Petya scared me,” she said, trying to smile, but tears kept flowing and sobs squeezed her throat.
Dressed-up servants, bears, Turks, innkeepers, ladies, terrible and funny, bringing with them cold and fun, at first timidly huddled in the hallway; then, hiding one behind the other, they were forced into the hall; and at first shyly, but then more and more cheerfully and amicably, songs, dances, choral and Christmas games began. The countess, recognizing the faces and laughing at the dressed up, went into the living room. Count Ilya Andreich sat in the hall with a beaming smile, approving the players. The youth has disappeared.
Half an hour later, in the hall, among the other mummers, another old lady in tanks appeared - it was Nikolai. The Turkish woman was Petya. Payas - it was Dimmler, the hussar - Natasha and the Circassian - Sonya, with a painted cork mustache and eyebrows.
After condescending surprise, misrecognition and praise from those who were not dressed up, the young people found that the costumes were so good that they had to be shown to someone else.
Nikolay, who wanted to give everyone a ride on his troika along an excellent road, suggested that, taking ten dressed-up people from the yard with him, go to his uncle.
- No, why are you upsetting him, the old man! - said the countess, - and there is nowhere to turn around with him. To go, so to the Melyukovs.
Melyukova was a widow with children of various ages, also with governesses and tutors, who lived four miles from the Rostovs.
“Here, ma chere, clever,” said the old count, who had begun to stir. “Now let me dress up and go with you.” I'll stir up Pasheta.
But the countess did not agree to let the count go: his leg hurt all these days. It was decided that Ilya Andreevich was not allowed to go, and that if Luiza Ivanovna (m me Schoss) went, the young ladies could go to Melyukova's. Sonya, always timid and shy, began to beg Louisa Ivanovna more insistently than anyone else not to refuse them.
Sonya's outfit was the best. Her mustache and eyebrows were unusually suited to her. Everyone told her that she was very good, and she was in a lively and energetic mood unusual for her. Some kind of inner voice told her that now or never her fate would be decided, and in her man's dress she seemed like a completely different person. Luiza Ivanovna agreed, and half an hour later four troikas with bells and bells, screeching and whistling in the frosty snow, drove up to the porch.
Natasha was the first to give the tone of Christmas merriment, and this merriment, reflected from one to another, grew more and more intensified and reached its highest degree at the time when everyone went out into the cold, and talking, calling to each other, laughing and shouting, sat down in the sleigh.
Two troikas were accelerating, the third troika of the old count with an Oryol trotter in the bud; Nikolai's fourth own, with its low, black, shaggy root. Nikolay, in his old woman's attire, on which he put on a hussar, belted cloak, stood in the middle of his sleigh, picking up the reins.
It was so bright that he could see plaques gleaming in the moonlight and the eyes of the horses looking around frightenedly at the riders rustling under the dark canopy of the entrance.
Natasha, Sonya, m me Schoss and two girls sat in Nikolai's sleigh. In the old count's sleigh sat Dimmler with his wife and Petya; dressed up courtyards sat in the rest.
The first question that everyone who decides to buy their first sewing machine should ask themselves is “Do I really need it?” Well, yes, at the labor lessons of all the girls, it seems like they even taught something to sew, build patterns and overcast buttonholes, but this knowledge has long been firmly forgotten as completely useless: it’s easier to buy a thing than to painstakingly cut, adjust to a figure, calculate the size of tucks , sew on buttons. If you firmly know that you want to sew all your own clothes, including coats and two-piece suits, think about how much time, effort and money this magical, but, alas, laborious task will take you.
Singer made a chic antique styling
So, no one and nothing can stop you on the way to your chosen goal, you are sure that you will be able to cope with patterns, material, threads and various stitches, you want to buy a tool right now. And you are one hundred percent convinced that after the first disappointment in your skills, you will not put the sewing machine on the mezzanine, in the far corner, or sell it to your girlfriend. Then let's get started. Let's start dating.
Types of sewing machines
Sewing a pillowcase is very easy, hemming a sheet is also very easy, but what about trousers or a skirt made of knitted fabric? That's just it, that you first need to see which car can do what, and then make a conclusion what to buy. For the most simple work, a mechanical or electromechanical machine will do, and sewing, for example, a ball gown on prom would require an expensive powerful computer-controlled machine.
Beauty, clever girl, she will show everything, she will teach everything
Electromechanical machines
Units with a mechanical selection of seams are the most unpretentious of modern sewing machines. The choice of the type of seam and adjustment are set by the wheel on the front panel; all processes are signed, even an inexperienced craftswoman will cope with the management. Electromechanical machines come with swinging vertical, rotary horizontal and vertical shuttles.
A vertical oscillating (oscillating) shuttle is used in cheap appliances. Such machines vibrate strongly, sew not very fast and not very well, while the stitch width is limited to 5 mm.
The other two types are very similar: they do not require lubrication, their vibration is several times less than that of a machine with an oscillating hook, the lower thread is less tangled, the stitch width reaches 7 mm. A nice bonus from a machine with a horizontal rotary hook (aka a horizontal double-running hook) will be a transparent window on the needle plate, through which you can see how much thread is left on the bobbin, and the bobbin itself is easier to thread into it than into a machine with a vertical hook. Professionals recommend it horizontal arrangement shuttle: in such machines, a straight line comes out better, moreover, they can process fabric sections.
Sewing machine with horizontal rotary hook
But the horizontal hook has one small but unpleasant drawback: it is inconvenient to adjust the tension of the lower thread - to get to the screw, you need to remove the needle plate, while the vertical rotary hook (sometimes called the double-running vertical hook) does not need such difficulties.
Electronic machines
Eyelet buttonholes, elastic and decorative stitches, embroidered monograms, borders on fabric, blind hems - this is not a complete list of what an electronic sewing machine with a built-in microprocessor can do. She knows the approach to the most capricious materials, suggesting which needle, type and stitch length to choose for silk, velveteen and crepe de chine. Some models can move the fabric not only back and forth, but also to the right and left, which gives a stitch width of up to 9 mm - these devices can already be called sewing machines with the possibility of embroidery. Asterisks, flowers, oblique stitches, and of arbitrary size, made by such an aggregate, manufacturers call "maxi-patterns"; they are already included in the program, their quality and quantity depends only on the capabilities of the sewing machine and the imagination of designers.
Such machines have a push-button control unit and a display that displays all the information: the selected program, adjustment settings, the Sewing Advisor help and prompt system.
He knows what to do
If you decide not to spare money for an expensive automatic sewing machine, then be sure to check if the kit includes an overlocker for overcasting and trimming fabric sections.
Sewing and embroidery machines with computer control
Serious devices for professionals, the most expensive and smart. They have automatic upper and lower thread tension adjustment, an embroidery unit, detailed multi-color embroidery patterns, seven or more types of buttonholes, and programs include up to five hundred types of various operations. The needle moves in different directions, so the machine can embroider with a cross, satin stitch, create cutwork, scallops, hemstitch. If you buy special software, you can connect a computer to it and create embroidery using own project or download patterns and embroidery programs from the Internet.
Pfaff makes a patchwork
On these machines, there is either a small information display, which displays only the number and basic parameters of the sewing operation, or a touch-sensitive liquid crystal display. With it, you can compose and store in memory a sequence of already programmed operations, invent your own stitches, get advice on how best to perform this or that action or select the desired needle number.
On the body of the sewing and embroidery machine, there are only shortcut keys: for example, automatic stitching, reverse, thread trimming.
What a decent sewing machine should be able to do
Straight stitch, zigzag for the edges of the fabric, sewing buttonholes - is that all? Nothing happened. There are many, many more functions without which a modern sewing machine simply has no right to exist.
Working stitches
There must be many. Elementary and complex, they help to sew things from any materials. Most often, masters, and beginners too, use nine types of lines:
- straight line;
- zigzag;
- elastic zigzag for elastic;
- elastic stitching for knitted fabrics,
- reinforced straight stitch;
- reinforced zigzag;
- overcast line;
- line for an invisible hem;
- elastic stitching for an invisible hem.
Decorative stitches
Electromechanical machines are back in the air: decorative stitches are few and too simple. Electronic ones can boast of the ability to make simple embroideries, ornamental elements, scallops, openwork patterns. Sewing and embroidery look down on them, proud of their own ability to create monograms in Latin and Russian letters, mirror the line vertically and horizontally, as well as the memory where you can enter combinations of letters and decorative elements. And very rare and complex models they can even embroider a line drawn on the screen.
loops
Slotted linen loops can be made even by electromechanical machines. Some models can only cope with semi-automatic mode, but most still have automatic mode available, in exact accordance with the size of the button.
Electronic and sewing-embroidery machines work with automatic buttonholes. In the models of European manufacturers, the master himself sets the millimeters of dimensions, and in the machines of Husqvarna and Pfaff there is an ingenious device that checks whether the loop is exactly swept out; in Japanese machines, the button is inserted into a special gauge. Ten types of loops - this is far from the limit! True, not all of them are constantly used. Most often, tailors sew on sewing machines linen buttonholes, eyelet buttonholes, knitwear buttonholes, suit buttonholes and buttonholes with rounded edges; made a loop once, brought its parameters into memory - the machine itself will make as many identical loops as you like.
Thread tension
So that the seam does not tear, does not bulge, and it is pleasant to admire it, the upper and lower threads should be intertwined in the material itself, and not on its surface. To adjust the lower thread, there is a special screw on the shuttle, and the upper one is a simple mechanism located on the front panel of the sewing machine.
Needle threader
If you need to change, say, a white thread to a black one, or you can’t see well, a needle threader will come to the rescue.
Automatic needle threader
Pass the thread through its hooks, press or lower (the design is different) a special lever, pull the loop. Done, you can continue to sew.
Top feed dog
Silk, chiffon, viscose often create problems: two pieces of matter move, the seam becomes uneven. Checkered and striped fabrics can also cause a lot of trouble: either the lines do not match, or the cell turns into a polygonal figure in one movement. In order to prevent such disgrace, manufacturers have long come up with an upper fabric conveyor, which is responsible for the length of the stitch, moving the material between needle punctures.
The conveyor is fixed instead of the foot and helps to move the material. Most often, it is removable, and only with a universal foot, and only in Pfaff models is the conveyor built-in, it doesn’t care about any foot - whichever you put, it will work with that one.
Presser foot pressure on fabric
To make a good stitch, you need to determine how firmly the presser foot should press the fabric. On the regular fabrics she simply has to press hard, on the knitted fabric - much weaker, otherwise the fabric will stretch. In electromechanical machines, a special spring is responsible for the pressure; in electronic and computer it is regulated automatically.
Particularly thick material is also easy to sew: the presser foot lift reaches 12 mm.
If the machine already has an upper fabric conveyor, then it is quite possible to do without a pressure regulator: the conveyor itself will provide an excellent even line.
Electronic needle puncture force stabilizer
Sewing materials have different density and thickness. So that you can carefully and carefully work with thin fabrics and reliably sew jeans or artificial leather, the sewing machine must have a needle piercing force stabilizer.
Needle position switch
With it, the needle will stop either in the extreme upper or in the extreme lower position.
Sleeve platform
Legs, cuffs and sleeves are difficult to sew. Therefore, it is better to choose a machine with a sleeve platform: it will be possible to remove part of the working table and calmly fiddle with these recalcitrant fabric tubes.
Sewing speed adjustment
It all depends on the force of pressing the pedal of the electric drive and the model of the sewing machine. Speed control can be stepwise or smooth, with jerk protection. Husqvarna, Brother and Janome produce cars without a pedal, just with a start / stop button and a speed control lever.
Reverse
So that the line does not move apart, it must be fixed. in expensive and good cars there is a separate function “Automatic fastening of the line”, and in cheap, but decent ones, you have to save yourself by reverse, that is, sewing in the opposite direction.
Automatic reinforcement stitching
It happens not in all models, but it's a pity: a very useful thing. At the beginning and end of the stitch, the machine will secure the stitch and the seam will not unravel.
Automatic thread trimming
The automatic thread cutter will cut the upper and lower threads and raise the needle to its highest position when the button is pressed.
Automatic presser foot lift
When you finish sewing, the presser foot will go up without you having to do it. If it seems that you can do without this function, turn it off without any problems and use hand or knee levers to raise the foot.
It is he who will tell you which thread, needle, foot to choose for sewing this or that thing. And if you bought a high-end model, then it will show a picture of how to use it all and in what order.
Overlocks
Did you know that a sewing machine, no matter how beautiful, expensive and solid, only imitates a real overlock stitch? Unbelievable but true. True, the overlock will not replace the sewing machine, because it is intended only for processing the edges of products, but it will wonderfully complement it. Having bought it, you can cope with almost any fabric: natural silk, viscose, velvet. And for stretchy fabrics - knitted fabric - you need a carpet.
Overlock Janome ML 714
The overlock does not have a shuttle, there is only a looper, which makes the seam. The more loopers, the more varied the stitches.
Two loopers
In inexpensive simple overlocks, there are two loopers: upper and lower. They sew a three-thread overlock stitch (narrow and wide), a three-thread flatlock seam (narrow and wide), a three-thread border, a three-thread rolled hem. If you add a second needle, you get a four-thread overcasting seam - they are sewn together and at the same time overcast the shear edges of knitted fabrics.
Double seam convector
In models more complicated and higher in price, a convector is built in - a small metal bracket on the upper looper. It is needed for processing the edges of light, thin or elastic materials; two-thread seams made by him look much neater than three-thread ones. Overlock with a convector sews a two-thread narrow overcasting seam, a two-thread Flatlock flatlock seam (wide and narrow), a two-thread border, a two-thread rolled hem and a two-needle three-thread overcasting seam.
Chain stitch looper
If you add another lower looper - a chain stitch looper, then at the output we get a very expensive overlock, often called a coverlock. It can make flat seams with 2- or 3-needle parallel stitching and multi-thread overedge cut on the wrong side, that is, the overlocker will work like a cover stitching machine. Those who want to sew pajamas, underwear or T-shirts need just such an overlock: the seams will not rub the skin.
Carpetlock Singer 14T968DC
The chainstitch looper overlock is able to create a very strong and elastic straight stitch. It is called so - a chain seam; it is used to grind knitted fabrics and clothing details, which account for the greatest load: for example, they sew a belt on jeans.
The chainstitch looper, working together with the overlock loopers, makes a stitching-overlock stitch. If you look at your jeans, you will see that the side seams are exactly that, and five-thread.
For less loose fabrics, experts advise taking not a five-thread, but a four-thread seam.
Upper thread guides
The manufacturer built a top threader into the model - the price skyrocketed. This looper can make double-sided decorative flat seams. The number of threads in them reaches ten: for example, one of the Pfaff carpet locks is capable of seven decorative seams, even a flat ten-thread three-needle.
Differential conveyor
Everyone who has had a chance to sew or just wear things from knitted fabric knows that this fabric is stretched. If there is no differential feed in the overlock, then the line will go in waves. Sometimes this effect is needed, but in most cases it is not.
The differential conveyor consists of two combs: one is installed in front of the needles, the other behind them. The fabric feed regulator moves the combs so that the fabric sits or, on the contrary, stretches when sewing.
Threading
The title of the most inconvenient operation in working with overlocks is rightfully refueling the lower looper. In cheap models, it turns into a kind of Chinese torture in half with a circus performance: it requires a fair amount of finger flexibility and manual dexterity. To save your nerves and time, immediately buy a normal overlocker with a lower looper threading device already built in. Some manufacturers go further: they produce machines with needle threaders.
Automatic lower looper threader
A steel hook passes through the eye of the needle, picks up and pulls the thread. This is the needle threader. By the way, the hook is very small and sometimes breaks.
Thread tension adjustment
In inexpensive overlockers, tensioners are located on the front cover, and on different axes. In models with a higher price, there is one axis; the thread is pulled more evenly. In luxurious, almost professional ruglocks, everything is done by a computer, but a tailor can also have a hand in adjusting the tension of the threads with buttons on the front panel.
Accessories
Before buying an overlocker, ask the seller if it is possible to purchase additional paws for it, and if not, where to order them. The range of paws is rich and varied; with them, a skilled craftsman will create things of unprecedented beauty, and an inexperienced one will learn and do the same.
Overlock feet Merrilock 007
There is a special foot for sewing in beads, for sewing on tucks, a gathering foot, a universal foot, a sewing seam guide - there are a great many of them, and all of them will be useful to those tailors who want to sew truly original dresses, blouses and trousers.
Popular models and brands
Janome 412i
Electromechanical sewing machine with oscillating hook. There is incandescent lighting, sewing speed adjustment, a reverse button, a sleeve platform and a compartment for accessories. The machine does 12 sewing operations; loop execution - semi-automatic, in four steps. The length of the line is smoothly adjustable, the width of the zigzag - step by step; the bobbin is wound automatically; loop balancing is controlled. Soft case included. Plastic housing, type of lubricant - graphite, maximum length stitch 4 mm, width 5 mm. Manual thread cutter. The lower conveyor is three-lane, three-segment. Types of stitches: straight, hidden, elastic, zigzag, overlock imitation. Power - 65 W, weight - 7 kg.
It costs about 4,000 rubles. Janome 412i is a typical sewing machine for beginners: easy to learn, but at the same time comfortable to use. Of course, in order to sew capricious fabrics like silk, you will need to buy special needles and an upper fabric conveyor for it. Janome 412i designed in Japan, manufactured in Thailand.
Singer 2263
Electromechanical machine with vertical oscillating shuttle. She has 23 sewing operations in stock; she can semi-automatically embroider a buttonhole, makes 6 kinds of working stitches, 11 kinds of decorative stitches, 5 kinds of knitted stitches. The stitch length is adjustable up to 4.2 mm, the maximum stitch width is 5 mm. Manual thread cutter. Types of stitches: straight, elastic, scalloped, blind hemming, darning, overlock imitation. Work zone illuminated by an incandescent lamp; there is a sleeve platform, a compartment for accessories, a foot for sewing in a zipper, a reverse button, an automatic needle threader, a presser foot pressure regulator on the fabric. After winding the thread, the bobbin stops, the sewing speed is smoothly adjusted; The machine is designed to work with light and medium materials. The case is plastic, the parts are lubricated with graphite. Power 85 W.
The price of such a sewing machine is about 4,000 rubles. Buyers do not complain about it, on the contrary, they note the reliability and workmanship. True, they mention that the Singer 2263 does not have a separate switch for the lighting lamp, and the needles included in the initial package have the same numbers. Singer 2263 is made in China.
Juki HZL-K65
Electronic sewing machine with horizontal rotary hook and automatic buttonhole sizer. A very solid device for advanced users: 20 sewing operations, 3 types of automatic buttonholes, smooth adjustment of sewing speed, foot pressure regulator on fabric, electronic stabilizer for needle piercing, reverse button, ability to turn off the fabric feed to the lower conveyor, LED lighting. The maximum height of the presser foot is 13 mm, the stitch length reaches 4 mm, the width is 7 mm. Stitches: straight, elastic, imitation overlock, hidden, elastic hidden. The kit comes with zipper, hem and overlock feet. There is a "sewing advisor", an automatic needle threader, a sleeve platform, a needle position switch up / down and an automatic needle stop device in the up position, the possibility of sewing with a twin needle. The lower fabric conveyor is seven-segment, the cover is rigid. The weight of the sewing machine is 8 kg.
This beauty costs about 10,000 rubles. Those who have already bought one unanimously praise the excellent handling; they say that it is easy and pleasant to work with it, and, of course, they admire the buttons for selecting sewing patterns. Juki HZL-K65 designed in Japan, manufactured in China.
Brother INNOV-`IS 350 SE
For its centennial anniversary, Brother has released an amazing model of electronic sewing machine - Brother INNOV-IS 350 SE. I don't even know what it doesn't have, except perhaps a built-in bar and an embroidery unit. And everything else you need for work is in place: there is an LCD display, and 294 sewing operations, and a rotary horizontal shuttle, and smooth adjustment of the sewing speed, and an electronic needle piercing force stabilizer, and a presser foot pressure regulator on the fabric, and a reverse button . But that is not all. This machine has an upper fabric feed, the ability to turn off the material feed to the bottom feed, a button gauge, an automatic thread cutter, a sleeve platform, the ability to sew with two needles, a needle up/down switch, and even the foot on it can be raised not by hand, but knee. Brother INNOV-IS 350 SE performs 10 types of buttonholes automatically; three paws are included in the kit: for sewing in zippers, sewing on buttons and overlock. The conveyor is seven-segment. The cover is hard. Machine weight - 8.3 kg.
Brother INNOV-`IS 350 SE
The price, of course, is high, about 19,000 rubles. The Brother INNOV-IS 350 SE can sew all kinds of fabrics, but it has one great feature: a great set of features for quilting. The happy owners of the Brother INNOV-IS 350 SE sing praises in chorus and claim that working on it is a real pleasure. Country of origin - Japan, assembler - China.
Husqvarna Emerald 116
Electromechanical sewing machine with horizontal rotary hook and button measuring system. This model is slightly different from its classmates: its coil is located horizontally, on plastic case there is a ruler, when the bobbin is fully wound, autostop is activated. And everything else she has is about the same as the others: the standard of needles is 130/705N, the reverse button, the presser foot pressure regulator on the fabric, the sleeve platform, the compartment for accessories, the needle threader. The number of sewing operations is 16, the maximum stitch length is 4 mm, the width is 5 mm, the loop is overcast automatically. 60 types of seams, including: straight stitch, elastic, elastic hidden, overlock imitation. 8 paws are supplied in the kit: for example, for sewing in a zipper, hem, overlock.
Husqvarna Emerald 116
It costs about 11,500 rubles. Husqvarna Emerald 116 is suitable for both beginners and those who already know how to sew quite complex things. Almost all buyers are satisfied, they advise the model to friends and acquaintances, emphasizing the convenience and ease of use. Husqvarna is Swedish and made in Taiwan.
AstraLux 7300
And again we have an electronic sewing machine with a horizontal rotary hook, this time from AstraLux. The name is downright saying: indeed, this model deserves to be called "star". It has 504 sewing operations, touch control, the ability to sew with two needles and mirror image stitching, 4 kinds of monogram fonts, a start / stop button. In the kit you will be offered several paws: for quilting, hemming, sewing in zippers, for sewing on buttons, overlock. The machine performs 13 types of loops automatically, the maximum stitch length is 5 mm, the width is 7 mm. There is also a smooth adjustment of the sewing speed, an electronic needle puncture force stabilizer, the ability to turn off the fabric feed to the lower conveyor, a reverse button and LED lighting, not to mention the display, sleeve platform, automatic needle threader, needle position switch up / down, compartment for accessories and soft storage case. The case is plastic, silicone grease. Power 50 W, weight 11 kg.
Invention history
Needle plate, presser foot and feed dog of the sewing machine
The creation of a sewing machine dates back to the second half of the 18th century. The first sewing "machines" differed in that they completely copied the method of manually obtaining a stitch. But in 1814 an Austrian tailor Joseph (Josef) Madersperger created a needle with an eye at the tip of one of the ends (further it is considered that the top of the needle is the one with the eye). A few years later, Fisher, Gibbon, Walter Hunt, Ellias Howe and other scientists began to work on getting a stitch using a needle with an eye. In 1845, Ellias Howe in the USA developed the lockstitch and received a patent for a sewing machine with this stitch, which worked at a speed of 300 stitches per minute. A feature of the mechanism of this machine was that the needle moved horizontally, and the tissues to be sewn were located in a vertical plane and could only move in a straight line, which caused some inconvenience.
In 1850, in the sewing machine of A. Wilson, and later in 1851 in the machines of Singer and Gibbs, the needle moved vertically, and the fabric, pressed with a special foot, was located on a horizontal platform and its advancement was carried out by an intermittently moving gear wheel, and subsequently by a toothed plate (rake).
With each sewing machine model created, the design of the sewing machine became more complex and improved, they became faster and more specialized.
Classification
By appointment sewing machines are divided into stitching and special ones: overcasting, blind stitch, button stitch, etc. There are also universal sewing machines (they allow you to make seams various kinds, lines different lengths and in various directions) and semiautomatic devices (designed to perform certain operations).
Depending on the type of weave of the thread in the stitch, sewing machines are divided into 2 subgroups: lockstitch machines and chain stitch machines.
All sewing machines included in one subgroup have much in common both in principle of operation and in the design of working bodies. The most widespread among sewing machines of a universal type is a single-needle lockstitch stitching machine, the main elements of which are the mechanisms of the needle-main shaft, thread take-up, shuttle and fabric motor (rack).
- Household sewing machines*
- Lockstitch sewing machines
In mechanical sewing machines, gears of a special shape, levers, wheels, copiers, and similar mechanics are responsible for moving the needle and moving the fabric conveyor. Machines with mechanical control, due to technological features, cannot perform stitches complex shape and have a limited number of lines. Mechanical machines are driven by the rotation of the flywheel handle or have a foot drive. The handwheel of the electromechanical machine rotates the electric motor, and the sewing speed is controlled by pressing the pedal.
Machines with microprocessor control
In machines with microprocessor control, the movement of fabric and needle is controlled by a microprocessor. This control principle removes restrictions on the complexity of lines and their number. Everything is determined by the amount of memory and the program that the manufacturer has put into this or that model. Only computer controlled machines can sew eyelet buttonholes and beautiful decorative stitches. There are models that allow you to sew without a pedal (they have a start / stop button and a sewing speed controller).
Embroidery machines When using an embroidery machine, the fabric is hooped. The hoop drive mechanism receives commands from the computer to move the fabric in accordance with the program - “machine embroidery design”. Sewing and embroidery machines Machines of this class are machines with microprocessor control to which you can connect an embroidery unit and use the machine as an embroidery machine.
- Chain stitch sewing machines
- Industrial sewing machines
Design
Application
Sewing machines are used in the sewing, knitwear, footwear and other light industries, as well as in everyday life.
The principle of forming a stitch with a lockstitch machine
The principle of forming a stitch with a lockstitch machine
The needle drive mechanism tells the needle, in the eye of which the thread is threaded, reciprocating motion. As a result, the material is punctured with a needle, the upper thread is passed through it and a loop is created at the eye of the needle. The shuttle mechanism ensures the capture of the loop, its bypass around the bobbin with the bottom thread. The thread take-up mechanism unwinds the thread from the spool, pulls it off the hook and tightens the stitch. The feed dog mechanism advances the fabric by the stitch length. All mechanisms receive movement from the main shaft, driven by an electric or mechanical drive.
Additional Information
Literature
- Great Soviet Encyclopedia
Links
Wikimedia Foundation. 2010 .
See what the "Sewing Machine" is in other dictionaries:
1. Jarg. injection. A mechanical razor used for tattooing. Baldaev 2, 157. 2. Zharg. sport. (l/atl.). Shuttle. iron. A sprinter running at a high cadence, with a high pace of movement. (Recorded in 2000) 3. RPG. Shuttle. A few hits... Big dictionary of Russian sayings
What are the types of sewing machines and do you need to understand this at all? A specialist in sewing production, a consultant in a store, must know all types of sewing machines and their purpose. We are more interested in the question, what type of sewing machine to choose so that it can sew almost any type of fabric? After all, every dressmaker, both beginner and experienced, wants to have just such a universal machine.
It is in this aspect that we will consider the main types of sewing machines. In particular, we will figure out which type of shuttle is better, what fabrics can be sewn by certain types of sewing machines, what is a carpet lock, stitcher, etc. And of course, how much a good machine that can sew any type of fabric can cost.
In this table, we provide a conditional classification of household sewing machines, intended only to expand your knowledge of sewing machines. In fact, if you give a complete list of all types and types of sewing machines and their differences in the form of a table, you will get a very large list, which is boring and useless to study.
In practice, it is only important to know that the usual sewing machine it can be mechanical, that is, devoid of any electronics, with the exception of a light bulb and an electric drive. The shuttle of such a machine, as a rule, is of a swing type (Shuttle of the Chaika sewing machine), which limits its speed and increases the noise of operation, but expands the range of fabrics and materials for sewing.
The sewing machine may have more than complex system control (switching lines, selecting operations, etc.) Then it will already have an electronic unit built in and therefore it belongs to electromechanical sewing machines. Most often, such machines have a horizontal type of shuttle, which improves the quality of the line and reduces the noise of the machine.
And the last type of sewing machine can be called a computer one, since almost all processes are monitored by computer program. The shuttle of such a machine is rotating or horizontal type. And its main feature is that such a machine can sweep an eye loop. To "appreciate" this feature, it is enough to say that an industrial eye loop machine costs about ten thousand dollars.
2. Mechanical sewing machine
If we compare these three types of sewing machines, it is easy to determine that mechanical machines have the lowest price, but at the same time they have limited opportunities and not too high quality stitching. But at the same time, such a machine is easier and cheaper to repair, and thanks to the simplicity of its design, it is still more reliable than other types equipped with electronics. It is this type of machine that can be recommended for those who periodically sew simple products or repair clothes for themselves and their loved ones. Especially if you are limited by finances.
3. Electromechanical sewing machines
Much more functional. They are able to perform many lines and operations, they are more comfortable to work with and their tailoring quality is an order of magnitude higher. Accordingly, the cost is higher, and not only the machine itself, but also its repair. However, for those who sew a lot and even make money on it, it is best to choose this type of machine.
4. Computerized sewing machine
For those who appreciate not only comfort in work, but also unlimited opportunities for creativity, a computerized machine is ideal. Its possibilities are simply not limited, and all processes are under the control of a program that offers not only correct selection threads, needles, etc., but also warning of an error. Naturally, the price of such types of machines is the highest and depends on its technical equipment (display size, availability of additional electric drives). To put it figuratively, such a machine is more like a tool for an artist who only works with fabric.
See Brother computerized sewing machine.
5. Other types of sewing machines
Overlock is a type of overcast sewing machine, in other words, for overcasting fabric. Therefore, this type of sewing machine can be considered secondary, in addition to a conventional sewing machine. By the way, some models of sewing machines have a special line and a foot for overcasting, however, this type of overcasting of a cut of fabric cannot "compete" with an overlock. For a quality overlock stitch, you need to buy an overlock. And if you don't need a special overlock stitch or fake flat stitch, then the starting price 4-thread knitted overlock is well worth your choice. Moreover, many manufacturers, in order to attract a buyer, equip overlocks and additional features, for example, the ability to install a cap on the looper (converter), which allows you to perform a two-thread seam, etc.
The purpose of this machine is well demonstrated in this photo. This is the processing of the hem, sleeves, neck of T-shirts. It is also used for stitching details of knitted underwear, sewing on a wide elastic band in the belt sportswear, ribbons, etc. In a word, this is a special machine, the capabilities of which are partially available for a universal household sewing machine called a carpet lock.
6. Domestic furrier
This type of sewing machine is rarely used at home, however, you should know that fur skins are sewn on a special machine that does not have a shuttle or looper, but only one needle and, accordingly, one thread. Outwardly, the fur stitch resembles the overlock stitch, but the way it is formed is completely different. Otherwise, the fabric advances, instead of the foot, two pressure disks are used.
In general, if you have to sew fur coats or vests, then you cannot do without such a machine. Its household model is relatively inexpensive and adapted for home use. That is, it is without an industrial table, without a bulky and noisy frictional electric drive, etc., but quite compact and light, which cannot be said about the industrial version of the furrier machine.
And finally, what types of sewing machines can be used to sew any kind of fabrics and materials. The answer is very simple, there are no such models of household sewing machines, and if there is, then it will cost no less than a used car. Household machines are also called "seamstresses" and this term characterizes their purpose in the best possible way. This means that they are designed for sewing light and medium-weight fabrics, and if you try to sew jeans or coats on it, you will quickly see this. By the way, we categorically do not recommend overloading a household sewing machine, many parts of modern machines are made of plastic and can break from excessive load. Manufacturers of sewing machines primarily care about the comfortable operation of the machine, the quality of the line and the increase in its capabilities. It never occurs to them that someone will sew a leather coat on her.
Well, if you really need a universal sewing machine, then we can only recommend that you purchase a class 22 industrial machine (used) or any new model lockstitch machine made in China. These machines are equipped with interchangeable needle plates and rails (3 pcs.) and are easily reconfigured for sewing any kind of fabric. Yes, and its price (with comfortable table and electric drive) are sometimes lower than the price of a household machine.
Parameters for setting and adjusting the interaction of the vertical hook rotating in a circle and the sewing needle.
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