Do-it-yourself cargo quadcopter. Do-it-yourself general scheme for assembling a quadrocopter

• tutorial

I completely described the assembly and configuration process and, and below there will be a slightly modified version containing more information from my previous articles.

I will leave out the question of entering this hobby and go directly to the quadcopter.

Quadcopter size selection

A year ago, size 250 quadcopters were the most popular. But now pilots prefer to build smaller devices, which is quite reasonable: the weight is less, but the power is the same. I chose size 180 not for any practical reasons, but as a kind of assembly challenge.

In fact, this approach to the choice is not entirely correct. It is much more reasonable to choose the size of the propellers first, and already under them - the smallest frame where the selected propellers will fit. And with this approach, the 180th format is generally rejected. Judge for yourself: the 210 format allows you to install the same 5-inch props as the 250, while the quad itself is lighter, and 4-inch props fit into the 160 frames. It turns out that the 180th size is such an intermediate format that is "neither ours nor yours." It can also be considered a weighted 160. But, nevertheless, I chose it. Perhaps because it minimum size able to more or less comfortably pull GoPro camera or Runcam.

Accessories

Let's start with motors. The "intermediateness" of the 180th size, as well as the richness of their assortment, complicates the choice. On the one hand, you can take what goes to the 160s, on the other hand, what is installed on the 210s or even 250s. It is necessary to proceed from the propellers and the battery (the number of cans). I see no reason to use a 3S battery, but on propellers general rules are:

• you need maximum static thrust - increase the diameter of the propeller and decrease the pitch (within reasonable limits)
• you need high speed - reduce the diameter and increase the step (within reasonable limits)
• you need high thrust with a small diameter - add the number of blades (again, within reasonable limits, since if the difference between two- and three-blade propellers is noticeable, then between three- and four-blade propellers is not so big)

In my case, I have a prop size limit of 4 inches, but no motor limit. So the 3-bladed 4045 bullnose propellers are the smartest thing to do. They are difficult to balance, but with them the control is more responsive and predictable, and the sound is quieter. On the other hand, with two-blade propellers, the speed of a quadrocopter is higher, but I definitely don’t need this. "In the people" on the 180 frames, the following setups prevail:

• lightweight with 1306-3100KV motors, regular 4045 propellers and 850mAh battery
• heavy and powerful for 3-blade bullnose propellers and action camera with 2205-2600KV motors and 1300mAh battery

In fact, the frame allows you to install motors from 1306-4000KV to 22XX-2700KV. By the way, I don’t know why, but 1806-2300KV motors are now in disgrace and are little used.

For my quadric motors I took - RCX H2205 2633KV. Firstly, I wanted to have a power reserve (although with my modest piloting skills, it is not clear why). Secondly, my setups have never turned out to be ultra-light, in addition, I also plan to carry an action camera. Specifically, RCX motors are a compromise option. They are cheap, but there are many complaints about the quality. At the time of purchasing the components, these were one of the few 2205-2600KV motors on the market. Now (at the time of this writing) the range is much larger and it is better to choose something else.
With the rest of the components, he acted on the principle of "more challenge":

Flight controller selection

You may have noticed that there is no flight controller in the list. I want to describe his choice in more detail. Inexpensive build kits often include a CC3D controller, so this is probably the cheapest PC right now. Today there is absolutely no point in buying CC3D. It is outdated and does not have such necessary things as battery control and "beeper". Its successor CC3D Revolution is a completely different product with rich features, but at a price of over 40€.
Modern flight controllers have already switched from F1 to F3 processors, which made the Naze32 a past generation PC and significantly reduced its price. Now this is a truly popular controller that has almost everything that the soul desires at a price of 12€.
Of the new generation PCs, Seriously Pro Racing F3 is the most popular, and first of all, due to the availability of inexpensive clones. The controller itself is in no way inferior to Naze32, in addition it has a fast F3 processor, a large number of memory, three UART ports, built-in inverter for S.Bus. It was SPRacingF3 Acro that I chose. The rest of modern PCs were not considered because of the price, or some specific features (closed firmware, layout, etc.)
Separately, I note the now fashionable trend to combine several boards into one. Most often PC and OSD or PC and PDB I do not support this idea with a couple of exceptions. I don't want to change the entire flight controller because of a burnt OSD. In addition, as practice shows, sometimes such a combination brings problems.

wiring diagram

It is clear that all components that need 5V or 12V power will receive it from the BECs of the power distribution board. The camera could theoretically be powered directly from a 4S battery, since the input voltage allows this, but in no case should this be done. First, all cameras are very susceptible to noise in the circuit from the regulators, which will be reflected in the noise in the picture. Secondly, regulators with active braking (such as my LittleBee), when this braking is activated, give a very serious impulse to the on-board network, which can burn the camera. Moreover, the presence of a pulse directly depends on the wear of the battery. The new ones do not have it, but the old ones do. Here is an educational video on the topic of interference from regulators and how to filter them. So it is better to power the camera either from the BEC or from the video transmitter.
Also, in order to improve the quality of the picture, it is recommended to run not only the signal wire, but also the “ground” from the camera to the OSD. If you twist these wires into a "pigtail", then the "ground" acts as a shield for the signal wire. True, in this case, I did not.
If we are already talking about "ground", then they often argue about whether it is necessary to connect the "ground" from the regulators to the PC or whether one signal wire is enough. On an ordinary racing quadcopter, you definitely need to connect it. Its absence can lead to synchronization failures ( the confirmation).
The final wiring diagram turned out to be simple and concise, but with a couple of nuances:

• flight controller power supply (5V) from PDB via ESC outputs
• radio receiver power supply (5V) from PC via OI_1 connector
• video transmitter power supply (12V) from PDB
• camera power supply (5V) from the video transmitter
• OSD connected to UART2. Many people use UART1 for this, but like on Naze32, here this connector is in parallel with USB.
• Vbat is connected to the PC, not the OSD. In theory, the battery voltage reading (vbat) can be read on both the OSD and the PC by connecting the battery to either one or the other. What is the difference? In the first case, the readings will be present only on the screen of the monitor or glasses, and the PC will not know anything about them. In the second case, the PC can monitor the battery voltage, inform the pilot about it (for example, with a “beep”), and also transmit this data to the OSD, to the “black box” and via telemetry to the console. Adjusting the accuracy of readings is also easier through a PC. That is, connecting vbat to the flight controller is much more preferable.

Assembly

To start, a few general advice for assembly:

• Carbon conducts current. So everything must be well insulated so that nothing closes to the frame anywhere.
• Anything that sticks out of the frame is more likely to be broken or torn off in a crash. In this case, we are talking, first of all, about connectors. Wires can also be cut with a screw, so they must be hidden.
• It is highly desirable to cover all boards with PLASTIK 71 insulating varnish after soldering, and in several layers. By own experience I will say that applying liquid varnish with a brush is much more convenient than covering with a spray.
• It will not be superfluous to drop a little hot glue on the places where the wires are soldered to the boards. This will protect the solder from vibrations.
• For all threaded connections it is desirable to use "Loctite" medium fixation (blue).

The assembly I prefer to start with motors and regulators. good video on assembling a small quadcopter, from which I adopted the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe arrangement of motor wires.

Separately, I would like to say about the fastening of regulators: where and with what? They can be fixed on the beam and under it. I chose the first option, because it seems to me that in this position the regulator is more secure (these are my conjectures, not confirmed by practice). In addition, when mounted on a beam, the regulator is perfectly cooled by air from the propeller. Now about how to fix the regulator. There are many ways, the most popular is double-sided tape + one or two ties. "Cheap and cheerful", besides, dismantling will not cause difficulties. Worse, with such a mount, you can damage the regulator board (if you put a coupler on it) or wires (if you mount it on them). So I decided to mount the regulators heat shrink tube(25mm) and soldered them together with the beams. There is one caveat: the regulator itself must also be in heat shrink (mine were sold in it), so as not to come into contact with the carbon beam, otherwise - a short circuit.

It also makes sense to stick a piece of double-sided tape on the bottom of each beam at the motor mount. Firstly, it will protect the motor bearing from dust. Secondly, if for some reason one of the bolts is unscrewed, it will not fall out during the flight and will not be lost.
When assembling the frame, I did not use a single bolt from the kit, since they are all indecently short. Instead, I bought a little longer and with a head under Phillips screwdriver(there is such a personal preference).

The camera did not fit in width between the side plates of the frame. I slightly processed the edges of her board with a needle file (rather, I grinded off the roughness) and she got up without any problems. But the difficulties didn't end there. I really liked the quality of the camera holder from Diatone, but the camera with it did not fit in the frame in height (about 8-10mm). At first I attached the holder to the outer (upper) side of the plate through a neoprene damper, but the design turned out to be unreliable. Later came the idea of ​​​​the most simple and reliable fastening. I took only the clamp from Diatone's mount and put it on a piece of rod with an M3 thread. To prevent the camera from moving sideways, I fixed the collar with nylon sleeves.

I really liked that from the connectors on the PC I had to solder only the connectors for the regulators. Full-fledged three-pin connectors did not fit in my height, I had to go for a trick and use two-pin ones. For the first five channels (4 for regulators + 1 "for every fireman"), I soldered the connectors to the signal pad and the "ground", for the remaining three - to the "plus" and "ground", so that I could power the PC itself and already from it - backlight. Considering that Chinese clones of flight controllers sin with unreliable fixation of the USB connector, I soldered it too. Another point characteristic of the SPRacingF3 clone is the tweeter connector. As in the case with vbat, on the top side of the board there is a two-pin JST-XH connector, and on the bottom it is duplicated with contact pads. The catch is that the clone has a constant ground on the connector and when using it, the tweeter will always be activated. The normal working ground for the "tweeter" is brought out only to the contact pad. This is easily checked by the tester: the "plus" of the connector is ringing with the "plus" on the contact pad, and the "minus" is not ringing. Therefore, it is necessary to solder the wires for the "tweeter" to the underside of the PC.

The three-pin connectors of the regulators also had to be replaced. It was possible to use four two-pin plugs, but instead, I took two four-pin plugs and inserted all the regulators into one “ground”, and the signal wire into the second (observing the order of connecting the motors).

The illuminated plate is wider than the frame and protrudes on the sides. The only place where the propellers won't knock it down is under the frame. I had to farm: I took long bolts, put on them nylon couplings with pre-cut slots (so that the ties that fasten the backlight could be fixed) and screwed them through the bottom plate into the frame racks. I pulled a plate with LEDs to the resulting legs with screeds (the holes in the plate fit perfectly) and filled the screeds with hot glue. Soldered the connectors on the back side of the plate.
After assembly, at the setup stage, it turned out that something was wrong with the squeaker. Immediately after connecting the battery, it began to beep monotonously, and if you activate it from the remote control, then this monotonous squeak was also superimposed by a rhythmic one. At first I sinned on the PC, but after measuring the voltage with a multimeter, it became clear exactly where the problem was. In fact, it was possible from the very beginning to connect an ordinary LED to the wires of the tweeter. As a result, I ordered several tweeters at once, listened to them and installed the loudest one.

Often the PDB and controller are attached to the frame with nylon bolts, but I do not trust their strength. So I used 20mm metal bolts and nylon sleeves. After installing the PDB, I soldered the power supply to the regulators (the rest of the wires were soldered in advance) and filled the solder points with hot glue. I fastened the main power wire to the battery with a tie to the frame so that it would not be torn out in the event of an accident.

I removed all connectors from the receiver with wire cutters, except for the necessary three, and soldered the jumper between the third and fourth channels directly on the board. As I wrote above, it would be wiser to take the receiver without connectors. I also deployed his antennas and melted into heat shrink. On the frame, the receiver fits nicely between the PBD and the C-pillar. With this arrangement, its indicators are clearly visible and there is access to the bind button.

I fastened the video transmitter with ties and hot glue to the top plate of the frame so that through the slot there was access to the channel switch button and LED indicators.

To mount the video transmitter antenna in the frame there is special hole. But do not connect it to the transmitter directly. It turns out a kind of lever, where the antenna serves as one shoulder, the transmitter itself with all the wires serves as the other, and the connector attachment point will be the fulcrum, which will have the maximum load. Thus, in the event of an accident, with almost 100% probability, the connector on the transmitter board will break off. Therefore, it is necessary to mount the antenna through some kind of adapter or extension cord.

I decided to solder connectors to MinimOSD, not wires directly. They write on the forums that this board often burns out, therefore it is reasonable to immediately prepare for a possible replacement. I took a bar with connectors in two rows, soldered the lower ones to the contact pads with holes, and brought vIn and vOut to the upper ones. After that, I filled the soldering points with hot glue and packed the entire board in heat shrink.

The final touch is a sticker with a phone number. It will give at least a little hope in case of loss of the quadrocopter.

This build has come to an end. It turned out compactly and at the same time access to all necessary controls is preserved. More photos can be viewed

Unmanned aerial vehicles (drones) are high-tech expensive equipment. However, “drones” of an amateur level of performance seem to be quite affordable. Not by chance last years small drones, including those assembled by oneself, are quickly gaining popularity among the townsfolk. The new, so-called FPV technology (First Person View) - a first-person view, gives a unique flight experience to everyone. Radio-controlled aircraft modeling has always been in demand of the youth society. The advent of drones has only spurred this demand, easily satisfied if you buy a ready-made flying car, or assemble a drone. with my own hands.

Quadcopter (drone) - design unmanned aerial vehicle, which is one of the most popular aircraft modeling projects.

The easiest way to get a UAV is to simply take and buy a quadrocopter (drone), since the market (including the Internet) freely provides such an opportunity.

However, for greater interest and in order to better understand what a drone is, it is more practical and economical to assemble a quadrocopter with your own hands (DIY - Do It Yourself), for example, from a set of ready-made parts. A more serious option is to assemble a quadrocopter (drone) from scratch using a minimum of ready-made components.

What you need to assemble a quadcopter (drone)

Before you start assembling a drone with your own hands, you will need to decide on the components for creating a quadrocopter (drone). Therefore, consider the list of basic components that make up (drone):

Quadcopter frame

The frame of the drone (quadcopter) can be built using different materials:

• metal,
• plastic,
• wooden.

If the choice fell on wooden frame drone (as the simplest in terms of technology), you will need wooden plank about 2.5-3.0 cm thick, 60-70 cm long.

The board is cut in such a way that two strips 60 cm long and 3 cm wide are obtained. These two strips are the structure of the future quadcopter quadrant.

The frame structure of the drone is built by simply crossing two wooden planks under the “X” frame factor. The resulting frame is reinforced with a rectangular piece - stitching, in the central part. The size of the rectangle is 6 × 15 cm, the thickness is 2 mm. The material is also wood.

The classic frame configuration of a quadrocopter (drone), which is used in most do-it-yourself assembly cases. Shown with installed motors and controller

Other dimensions of the quadrocopter (drone) frame, other than those stated, are not excluded, but one should not forget about respecting the proportions. The connection of the frame parts is usually done with nails and glue.

Instead of wood, it is allowed to use metal or plastic of the same dimensions. However, the ways of connecting the slats will be different.

Below is a list of finished carbon frames for quadcopters (drones) available on the market:

• LHI 220-RX FPV
• Readytosky FPV
• iFlight XL5
• RipaFire F450 4-Axis
• Usmile X style
• Readytosky S500

Motors, ESC modules, propellers

For the manufacture of a classic quadrocopter (drone), you must have 4 engines. Accordingly, if an octocopter project is conceived, eight engines will be required.

One of the options for manufacturing quadrocopter (drone) motor propellers. The material chosen is hard plastic, given the small dimensions of the structure.

In Russian ESC module(Electronic Speed ​​Controllers) quadrocopters are called speed controllers. It's no less main part unmanned aerial vehicle than an electric motor.

The ESC modules are responsible for properly transferring power to the drone's motors. The number of quadrocopter modules corresponds to the number of electric motors.

• Emax RS2205 2600KV Brushless Motors
• DLFPV DL2205 2300KV Brushless Motors
• Gemfan GT2205 2650KV Brushless Motors
• HOBBYMATE Quadcopter Motors Combo

• 35A ESC BlHeli32 32bit DSHOT1200
• Thriverline Sunrise ESC 20A BLHeli-S

Propellers can be bought metal 9-inch. These products are affordable price freely available on the market.

Metal structures are durable, do not lend themselves to bending under high loads during the flight. However, for higher performance propellers - the best way carbon propellers. For example, these:

• BTG Quick Release Carbon Fiber Reinforced Propellers
• Performance 1245 Black Propellers MR Series
• YooTek 4 Pairs Foldable Quick Release Propellers
• Myshine 9450 Self-tightening Propeller Props
• Jrelecs 2 Pairs Carbon Fiber Propellers

Electronics and power module

A set of electronics for drones (quadcopters) traditionally consists of a flight controller and a wireless control system. This also includes the power module, since most power modules are equipped with electronic system battery monitoring.

Battery state of charge - important point flight. It is hard to imagine what will happen to the device if the battery is discharged, for example, during a flight over a body of water.

The flight controller maintains the stability of the quadcopter's flight by processing data regarding the direction and strength of the wind, as well as many other parameters.

Flight controller on the STM32F103C8T6 chip: 1, 2 - tweeter (+; -); 3 - flow; 4 - RCCI; 5 - body; 6 - 5 volts; 7 - battery; 8, 9 - UART TX, RX; 10 - strip indicator; 11, 12, 13, 14 - motors; 15 - PPM

The controller, as a rule, is equipped with the so-called "firmware" - a memory chip, where the basic information for a chip is written, similar to the AVR microcontroller.

The flight controller can be purchased at finished version, but do-it-yourself assembly of the circuit is also not excluded. True, for the second option, you must have the skills of an electronics engineer and the corresponding ones. Therefore, it is easier to still use ready-made solutions. For example, one of the following:

ArduPilot- a high-quality controller (expensive), designed for unmanned aerial vehicles. The firmware is distinguished by the presence of fully automated flight modes. The system provides high technical characteristics.

OpenPilot CC3D- a system based on the Digital Motion Processor, endowed with a whole family of flight control sensors. Includes a three-coordinate accelerometer and a gyroscope. The project is quite easy to configure and install. There is a user manual.

NAZE32- is also a fairly flexible and powerful system, but it seems somewhat complicated in terms of configuration. Equipped with an advanced firmware program.

KK2- one of the popular solutions that beginners often choose, since the controller is relatively inexpensive and is equipped with an LCD display. The basis of the circuit is the AVR microcontroller of one of the latest modifications. The scheme provides for the connection of MPU6050 sensors. However, the setting is only manual.

Wireless system remote control consists of a transmitter and receiver of radio signals. Through the remote control system, not only flight control is carried out, but also position control installed on the drone.

Drone (quadcopter) control panel in the classic variation of the radio signal transmitter with the possibility of monitoring via the LCD display

Here, as a rule, only turnkey solutions. For example, any of the remote control systems in the list below:

• Futaba 10JH 10-Channel Heli T-FHSS Computer Radio System
• Turnigy 9xr PRO Radio Control System
• Spektrum DX8 Radio Transmitter
• YKS FlySky FS-i6 2.4GHz 6 Channels Radio Control System

Assembling a drone (quadcopter) with your own hands

Electric motors are installed on the created frame. It may be necessary to calculate the locations of the motors and drill mounting holes in the frame if there are no other options.

Approximately according to such a mechanical scheme, it is recommended to fix electric motors on the frame of a quadrocopter (drone). True, much in the mount depends on the material of the frame.

Then the speed controllers are mounted. Traditionally, these modules are installed on the bottom plane of the frame. The speed controllers are connected directly to the motors via ribbon cables.

Next, a landing module is added to the frame - a part of the structure designed to organize a “soft” landing of the drone. Execution of this structural element should provide for shock mitigation when landing on hard ground. Various designs are possible.

The next step is to mount the flight controller. The location of this module is not critical. The main thing is to ensure the protection of electronics and uninterrupted operation.

The drone flight is connected according to the attached diagram to the module (receiver) remote control management and to electronic board motor speed control. All connections are made through reliable connectors, and the most important points are “sit down” on tin soldering.

In principle, the main assembly is completed here. But there is no need to rush to close the drone with the body. It is necessary to test all systems - sensors and other components of the quadrocopter, using the special software OpenPilot GCS (CC3D and GCS) for this. True, the release of the program is quite old and may not be supported by new developments.

After the test, the assembled device - an unmanned quadrocopter is ready to fly. In the future, the drone is easy to upgrade - equip it with a video camera and other devices that expand functionality.

04 May 2016

Despite many finished models of quadrocopters presented in online stores, many people still prefer to create a drone with their own hands. First, it saves money. Secondly, the fact that you were able to assemble a quadcopter yourself gives a weighty reason for pride, and it is much more pleasant to operate such a device than an ordinary purchased one.

So, how to make a drone at home? There are several ways to do this.

• Way one: relatively light. You can buy a ready-made kit for assembling a drone. These are now sold in any online quadrocopter store. The choice is huge, at the most different prices and from the most different materials. The advantage of this solution is that you get a set of parts, ideal suitable friend friend on technical parameters.

• Way two: for the brave and experienced. Complete freedom: you yourself buy all the necessary components.

This is what their main list looks like:

1. accumulators;2. speed controllers;3. engines (according to the number of propellers);4. control board with sensors: gyroscope, accelerometer, barometer, compass, etc.;5. rama (lovers hand made can make it yourself).

The advantage of this solution is the ability to use the parts you already have, left over from the old quadcopter or lying “in reserve”.

Your first quadcopter: theory and practice

For self-assembly, a medium-sized drone is ideal. At the request of the owner, the device can be modified, a photo or video camera can be added to it, but the general scheme for assembling a quadrocopter with your own hands is as follows.

The first step is to determine the size and configuration of the frame. You can buy ready-made or make your own. The advantage of the latter option is the ability to repair the frame on your own in the event of a breakdown, without waiting for a spare one to arrive. Can be used as a material plastic pipes for wires or square aluminum tubes. The basic shape is a square with intersecting rays in the middle.

Engines are installed on the beams of the frame. Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 2822-1275, NTM Prop Drive Series 28-30S, Turnigy Multistar 2216-800Kv models will be optimal. The first one is suitable for 20 A speed regulators (for a 45-50 cm quadcopter), the other two are suitable for 30 A regulators (for a 50-60 cm quadcopter).

Propellers are mounted on top of the engines - two each with right-hand and left-hand rotation. Their maximum allowable size will be indicated in the engine manual.

A Li-Po battery and a control board are attached to the core - either the simplest HobbyKing KK (equipped with only 3 gyroscopes), or MultiWii Lite V1.0 with 6-axis alignment, or MultiWii 328P (with 6-axis alignment, barometer and compass; the most optimal in terms of price / quality ratio). In order for the flight to remain stable, the controller must be vibration-isolated - a vibration-isolating sponge is suitable for this.

Of course, you cannot learn all the subtleties of the assembly from the articles. But you can do it under the guidance of experienced pilots at the Drone Expo Show. At the master classes you will be taught how to assemble a quadrocopter and pilot it, as well as answer all your questions about assembly theory.

To assemble a quadcopter with your own hands at home, you must first understand the basic components of a quadcopter.

Parts for assembling a quadcopter

1. Diatone Q450 Quad 450 V3 PCB Quadcopter Frame Kit 450mm It is the body of the aircraft, which will be used for mounting all other equipment and electronic stuffing. Consists of 4 beams and printed circuit board. Weight 295 grams.

   banggood.com

   Price 922 rubles.

2. Motor DYS D2822-14 1450KV Brushless Motor. 4 pieces.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 571 rubles / piece

   

3. DYS 30A 2-4S Brushless Speed ​​Controller ESC Simonk Firmware for RPM control and speed control. 4 pieces.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 438 rubles / piece

   

4. Propellers DYS E-Prop 8x6 8060 SF ABS Slow Fly Propeller Blade For RC Airplane, 4 pieces. Two right-hand rotation propellers and two left-hand rotation propellers.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 125 rubles / piece

   

5. Quadcopter control module KK2.1.5 kk21evo. 1 PC.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 1680 rubles

   

6. Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 4S ~90C Lipo Pack lithium-polymer battery, you need to cook at least two pieces, and four is better, because they sit down quickly. 1 PC.

   Sold in the online store Parkflyer.ru

   Price 1268 rub/piece

   

7. Hobby King Variable6S 50W 5A battery charger. 1 PC.

   Sold in the online store Hobbyco.ru

   Price 900 rub

   

8. Battery Connector XT60 Male Plug 12AWG 10cm With Wire. 1 PC.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 144 rubles

   

9. Clamps for fixing wires on the body of the quadrocopter. 1000pcs 2.0x100mm Black/ White Nylon Cable Ties Zip Ties. 1 package.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 316 rubles

   

10. Connectors 20 Pairs 3.5mm Bullet Connector Banana Plug For RC Battery / Motor. For regulator wires. 1 package.

    Sold in the online store Banggood.com

    Price 256 rubles

    

11. Velcro tape for attaching the battery to the body of the quadcopter. 1 PC.

    Sold in the online store Banggood.com

    Price 79 rub

    

12. 50pcs Motor Fixing Screws Set for DJI F450 F550 HJ450 550 Quadcopter Multicopter. 1 package.

    Price 217 rubles

    

13. Remote control quadrocopter Spektrum DX6 V2 with AR610 Receiver. The transmitter and receiver are included in one set. 1 PC.

    Price 9700 rub

    

The total set of equipment for assembly will cost 20018 rubles.

Features when choosing components

Basic characteristics of the transmitter:

• Modes Mode1 or Mode2. In the first mode, the throttle stick is on the right, in the second mode, the throttle stick is on the left.
• The transmitter frequency is 2.4GHz.
• Number of channels. The minimum number of channels required to control the aircraft is four. Control equipment from Spektrum DX6 V2 with AR610 Receiver contains 6 channels.

DIY step-by-step instructions for assembling a quadrocopter

1. Reduce the length of the wires on the regulators. When connecting the regulator to the motors, the length of the wires will significantly exceed the length of the beam on which this entire structure will be attached.

   

2. We solder the connectors to the ends of the wires on the regulator so that in the future you can connect the regulator to the motors.

   





3. We make installation of engines - we screw on 1 engine for each beam.

   

   

4. We assemble the frame. We screw the rays to the board.

   

   



5. We connect the wires of the regulators to the engines. The controller and motor cables are connected randomly. In the future, it may be necessary to change the connection order in the final configuration of the drone. When using dedicated regulators for each motor, the positive and negative poles must be connected to the controller, coming from only one regulator.

   

6. We fix the control module on the case with double-sided tape. It is best placed in the central part of the platform.

   



7. We fix the receiver on the case with double-sided tape and connect it to the control module. The receiver should be located as close to the module as possible.

   

   Channel assignment is described in the receiver manual. Usually their sequence is as follows:

   1. Ailerons - a channel responsible for left and right turns;
   2. Elevator - a channel that controls forward and backward directions;
   3. Gas is a channel that controls gas. Supervises takeoff and landing, as well as altitude changes;
   4. Yaw - the channel makes it possible to rotate the quadrocopter around its axis.

   

8. We power the device. We connect the battery to the connector.

   

This operation completes the assembly process of the quadcopter.

Adjustment

1. We start engines. Activation of the motors requires the execution of the process of starting the motors - arming. The user manual explains in detail how to achieve this. Deactivation of engines requires a disarming procedure.
2. We turn on a weak gas and make sure that the motors rotate. The nature of rotation must be the same as indicated in the diagram in the manual for the controller. If the motor rotates incorrectly, you just need to swap the poles of the wires going from the motor to the controller.

   

3. We screw the second platform to the body of the quadrocopter.

   

4. We connect a tape with Velcro to the case for attaching the battery.

   

   Do-it-yourself quadcopter assembly on arduino

   Conclusion

   Fulfill self-assembly quadrocopters can only be those who like the solution difficult problems. These should be people who enjoy the progress of various calculations and the process of assembling the device.

   The advantage of a do-it-yourself copter is that you can upgrade it at any time by adding new equipment.

The first tests of a multicopter aircraft took place as early as 1922, but only in the second decade of the 21st century. this type of layout began to gain popularity at an impressive pace. In comparison with others radio controlled models quadcopters are in high demand, probably because they have a practical purpose: at a minimum, capturing beautiful aerial shots.

Following the demands of consumers, manufacturers flood the market with an abundance of models of various configurations with a variety of characteristics. Many buyers prefer RTF (ready-to-fly) kits that are capable of being airborne after a simple calibration.

But not everyone needs easy ways. You can get special pleasure by assembling a quadrocopter from scratch on your own. The degree of difficulty varies from sets with all necessary details for assembly up to independently selecting each component, checking their compatibility, assembling and configuring your own UAV.

Assembling a quadcopter also makes sense in the presence of specific application scenarios for which factory models are not adapted. Or you can assemble an apparatus for flight training yourself, which you won’t be sorry to break. Detail drawing this is not needed, a sketch is enough, on which all the elements are marked.

Basic units and components

In order for the constructed apparatus to be able to take to the air, at least in theory, and to assemble a quadrocopter with your own hands, it is necessary to purchase a number of relevant components:

1. The flight controller is the “head” of the future UAV, in which all the basic necessary sensors are installed, as well as software to process their readings, and at the same time the commands coming from the control panel, control the speed of rotation of each engine. This is the most expensive component that you will have to buy to build a quadcopter.
2. The frame is made by advanced modellers on their own from carefully chosen materials (aluminum, plastic, wood, carbonate, or combinations thereof). With a lack of experience or engineering knowledge, if a ready-made frame is more suitable for the project, or there is neither desire nor time to design a quadcopter and its parts yourself, then ready-made frames produced in a wide range of sizes will come to the rescue.
3. It is better to choose brushless motors - they are somewhat more expensive, but much more reliable than collector ones. For flights, rotation at a significant speed is necessary, so the absence of a collector has a positive effect on the service life. At least 4 (or 8, if you need an octocopter) are purchased, if the budget allows, then with 1-2 spare ones.
4. The motor controllers are the circuit boards that regulate the speed of rotation of each motor and power it, will be mounted on the "beams" of the case. Their number corresponds to the number of engines.
5. Propellers or propellers should be chosen with special care, because the size must fit the dimensions future frame, regardless of whether it is self-built or purchased.
6. The power distribution board is designed to distribute power from the battery to the engine speed controllers. As a rule, each purchased case is supplied with a small board where you can solder the inputs from all the controllers, and then carefully power them. If you wish, you can order a more advanced version of the main power board if your quadrocopter circuit requires layout features.
7. Buying batteries is one of the most difficult moments in the selection of spare parts. The type of a suitable battery depends entirely on the intended purpose of the model being created. For fast models, it is better to take small batteries with high rates KV (revolutions per minute × Volt), and for low-speed cameras for filming, the ratio of capacity and weight is a priority, because the structure cannot be overloaded in any case. A useful addition is a battery charge monitor. It will not do without a special balancing charger for the selected type of battery (lithium-ion or lithium-polymer).
8. A remote control with a receiver module that connects to the flight controller so that the aircraft can be controlled. The type of control panel determines the comfort of operation and some other available functions.
9. Additional options are selected depending on the purpose of the future device. So, camera stabilizers are often attached to drones for shooting, and racing drones are impossible without an FPV (first person view, first-person view) complex.

You will need a few tools for assembly - a screwdriver for assembling the frame, a soldering iron and, of course, the skills to work with it.

The disadvantage of the latter is easy to eliminate during the assembly process, fortunately, "aerobatics" of owning a soldering station is not needed. And it is better to use soldering irons with a thin sting.

Drawings of quadrocopters in the full sense of the word do not exist, and they are not needed. Assembly from modules eliminates such a need. With consumables everything is a little more complicated. To assemble a quadrocopter with your own hands you will need:

1. Thread lock so that none of the screws get out from the flight vibrations.
2. Heat-shrinkable insulation for each soldering point.
3. Polymeric puffs-clamps for fixing elements on the body.
4. Waterproofing composition for printed circuit boards.
5. Banana connectors for motors.

Nothing will prevent you from making the necessary changes and improvements to the design during the assembly process or flight tests. Maybe for the set goals it is better to assemble an octocopter with your own hands. With care and caution, even the most technically illiterate spacecraft enthusiasts can build a flying drone. Moreover, flight tests in the future will reveal all the shortcomings that will be eliminated. The result should be the perfect personal drone. The main thing is to clearly present the scenario of its application.

Assembly process

There are many options for the layout and design of multicopters, but models with four propellers are the most common. Therefore, the assembly of such a quadcopter will serve as an example for a step-by-step review of the assembly process. In the process, you can rely on approximate drawings of quadrocopters from the network or compiled by yourself.

1: Building the frame

Regardless of the dimensions or purpose, each drone must have a frame, a frame, a supporting base. Assembly of finished frames should not be difficult due to the fact that they are supplied with detailed instructions and all necessary fasteners.

And to assemble the frame yourself, you will have to show design skills. A self-made quadcopter frame made of metal, plastic, metal-plastic or wood must be strong enough. For example, the thickness of the wooden parts of a do-it-yourself frame must be at least 30 mm. Assembling your quadcopter on a frame that is not strong enough is an empty effort, because it will often break down.

In any case, the output should be a given number of beams of the same length, which are carried by the motors and are attached to the central carrier plate. It also has landing supports or “legs”. In some layouts, the legs "grow" from under the engines. It all depends on the features dictated by the drawing of the quadrocopter and its frame.

2: We mount the power unit and propellers

Engines, their controllers and propellers play a key role in speed, maneuverability and other flight characteristics. Therefore, you should choose products from brands that work closely in the field of quadcopter construction, and not someone who happened to be in this market segment by accident.

Motors for one project must be of the same model from the same manufacturer.

Yes, the movement occurs due to the difference in the speed of their rotation, but it must be strictly controlled. A motley company of engines would upset the balance. They are fastened with screws to the outer ends of the "beams".

After the engines, on the plane of their supports, speed controllers are placed and fixed with ties. The connection of the controllers to the motors, as well as to the distribution board, is carried out by direct soldering and connectors. If you wish and budget possibilities, you can use the 4-in-1 controller, but then the layout of the quadrocopter will change a little. The result is an almost finished copter, which lacks only a flight controller.

3: Install the "brains"

The flight controller is usually mounted on top of the frame of the aircraft, above the distribution board and battery compartment. The layout can be changed, but it is worth remembering that the lower the center of gravity, the more stable the device.

To minimize the effect of vibrations on the operation of the flight controller, its mounting pad is often mounted on rubber spacers or more sophisticated vibration damping systems are used. At the design stage, this good opportunity show off engineering ingenuity without causing irreparable harm to the entire structure.

Only after the controller is installed, it is possible to place the remaining components and modules: the receiver from the control panel, the GPS sensor, magnetic compass, camera, suspension and more.

And only place on the body, the connection is allowed only after the initial calibration of the flight controller.

Different manufacturers produce different controllers, control panels and other components. Therefore, their calibration is a complex and variable process worthy of separate consideration.