DIY desktop monitor holder. Do-it-yourself monitor stand made from scrap materials

The monitor does not have a standard VESA mount for the bracket, but the monitor needs to be hung on the wall? No problem - we’ll do the mounting ourselves!

The excellent Samsung T220 monitor has served me faithfully for many years now. I bought it when large widescreen monitors were just starting to become widespread. A 22″ monitor with an aspect ratio of 16:10 with an excellent picture, unattainable by many modern monitors. Everything would be fine, but now there is a need to hang the monitor on the wall, and this monitor model does not have a standard VESA mount for mounting on a bracket.

Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos of what it was like, so I’ll just attach images that I found online.

The task boils down to disassembling the monitor, making holes, installing mounting screws, assembling the monitor and screwing the mounting pad from the bracket to the screws.

To install the monitor on the wall, an inexpensive, but convenient and reliable bracket was purchased Holder LCDS-5039.

So, let's disassemble the monitor. This is not difficult to do - unscrew the two screws at the bottom of the monitor, having previously unhooked the monitor stand, and carefully remove the back cover (it is secured with latches). I did not film these operations.

Screw the mounting pad from the bracket. The editing area smiles at you. :)

This is what the fastener looks like from the inside. To distribute the load, I used enlarged washers on both sides.

And this is what the disassembled monitor looks like. Display, electronics and standard stand.

We install the back cover in place, snap it tightly and do not forget about the two screws at the bottom.

All connectors on the rear panel are covered with a cover (not pictured). True, I didn’t return it to its place this time - I don’t see the point. Next is the bracket itself and installing it on the monitor (what it will look like).

The next step is marking the holes on the wall, drilling the holes and installing the bracket. I must say that the walls in our house are terrible - voids and other delights. I drilled two of the three holes well and reliably, but the third fell into the void. But everything was held securely on two dowels. True, I realized that I hung the monitor too high and the next day I decided to lower it by 5 cm. I had to tinker. I re-drilled the holes several times, but there were still voids. I put it aside for a day. And today, instead of 6*80 dowels, I used a “figure eight” (I don’t know the length, 12 centimeters). I achieved reliability and left it. Now we need to find scraps of wallpaper to seal the holes. However, nothing is visible behind the monitor. =)

This is what happened.

And here's how it was. I apologize for the quality of the photo - it was taken on a phone.

As you can see, it's freed working space. Now not two, but three cats will fit on the table. =)

Mounting a monitor to the wall—we do it ourselves

A 17″ monitor restored from several faulty ones worked honestly for several years as a TV with an external TV tuner (5 years ago this was cheaper than buying LCD TV), but the time has come and a substandard working monitor was required. Everything would be fine, but the leg support has not been preserved after so many years. I tried to make a foot stand from scrap materials, see what happened below.

How to make a monitor stand with your own hands

1. To make the leg, three-layer plywood from a packing box with a thickness of 6mm was used.

2. For the leg-stand you will need only three parts. A large plate 29 cm high, 32 cm wide at the base and 18 cm wide at the top. And two support plates 23 cm wide and 7 cm high. Future blanks are drawn in any form with rounded shapes on a sheet of plywood. For greater stability on Not flat surface On each plate, legs are formed at the edges. The assembly diagram is simple. The plates will be connected to each other in a groove.

3. First, we cut out a large plate with a jigsaw - an electric jigsaw. It is important to carefully cut out the grooves; their width should be slightly narrower than the width of the plywood; this is necessary for a tight connection of the component parts.

4. Cut out the support plates. Carefully mark the depth and width of the groove on one plate. Then we tighten the plates with clamps and cut out a groove on two plates at once - this will allow you to get two identical grooves.

5. Check the leg assembly if assembled structure stands on a flat surface on 6 supports, which means everything was done correctly.

6. Mark and drill holes with a diameter of 4.5 mm to attach the monitor to the support; here it is better to make a stencil of holes for precise drilling.

7. To refine the parts, sand the surfaces of the workpieces sandpaper and round it off top edges. You can cover your hand-made structure with varnish or paint. For creative types, such a homemade monitor leg is probably a godsend for original modding by coloring, embedding shelves, speakers, chargers, etc. into the leg, for example.

Many personal computer users often respond very positively to working with two or more monitors. With a second monitor, you can expand the working area and distribute applications, programs, individual windows, etc. more evenly between them. And if you consider relatively low cost monitors, they can already afford a “spare” monitor large quantity users.
However, there is one rather unpleasant characteristic when working with two monitors from different manufacturers: in most cases, the stands of the models are different, and therefore their height also differs. Of course, we must not forget that to install two or more monitors you will need large surface table. This whole bunch of inconveniences can be easily solved with the help of a special bracket for two monitors.

First of all, we wouldn’t like to go to great lengths and just buy a ready-made bracket for two monitors, but after looking at the offers on the Internet, we realized that the cost is very high and almost comparable to the price of a new monitor. After that, we turned our attention to various mounts for one monitor. Of course, you can buy several and simply attach them to the table, although even here the price tags turned out to be “biting”. There was only one thing left to do - make the bracket with your “crazy” hands.

What is needed to assemble a bracket for two monitors
The material chosen must, above all, be strong and very reliable, since it should be taken into account that each monitor weighs several kilograms. We chose a 15 mm aluminum profile as the base. This is a lightweight material with sufficient strength. For other parts we used 2 mm sheet aluminum. The stand can be ordered at any furniture workshop or store. The main thing when choosing a base is weight and area. The larger they are, the more stable the entire structure will be.

Preparing parts
We drew all the drawings in advance and printed them on self-adhesive paper. After that, we pasted the drawings onto the existing blanks and cut them out with a tool convenient for this. In our case, we used a grinder, although everything can be cut out even with a jigsaw or regular hacksaw on metal. After this you need to drill all the holes. This must be done very accurately, because otherwise the bracket will be crooked and oblique.

In order to be able to adjust the distance between the monitors and their height, we made several holes at intervals of 20 millimeters. Thus, it will be possible to adjust the height of the monitors and the distance between them.

After the work has been done, it is necessary to sand and process all the edges, because we do not want to scratch the brand new monitors. Only lastly do we bend the fastenings of the base and the monitor itself. For this procedure we use a homemade bending machine, although you can only attach the workpiece to the table using a block and bend it with a hammer.

Assembly
Finally all the parts are ready and we begin the assembly. First, let's secure the ribs together, and here we missed one very important point. To maintain the rigidity of the structure at the junction of the guides, it is necessary to use a metal square that can rigidly fix the position of the profile.

After this, we attach the corners to the base using rivets to fix the structure to the base. Then we bolt the monitor holders, and thus we get an almost ready-made bracket for two monitors.
Lastly, we attach the entire structure to the stand. Here it is important to install the frame as correctly as possible. It is necessary to calculate the distance so that the installed monitors are in line with the center of the stand. If you install them too close to the edges, then there is a chance that the monitors will fall backwards or worse, face forward.

One option for placing flat-screen TVs is to mount them on the wall. This solution allows you to save space, while everything looks stylish and modern. But factory-made brackets, despite their great functionality, have one drawback - they are overpriced. Since the design of the bracket is simple, you can make it yourself from any available materials. Let's take a closer look at how to do this.

Basic requirements for mounting a TV

Most manufactured TVs use VESA mounting. Based on typical hole distances (in millimeters), various mounting modules are available. Typically these are four mounting points located on the rear panel. The "quadruple" VESA scheme is made in the form of a square or a slightly elongated rectangle. The mounting points may already have standard mounting bolts installed. If they are not there, then they are in a separate package or with other components.

You cannot mount the TV, which is especially important for expensive branded models, using non-standard fasteners. Therefore, the bolt heads are often designed for special tools, and the holes are filled with soft plastic. In such cases, installation of the product on a factory-made bracket must be done by a certified technician. Without his mark in the warranty card about the work done, all warranty obligations are canceled!

When installing standard brackets on main walls, it is recommended to choose steel dowels, or at least propylene. For walls made of foam block, cinder block - only propylene. Self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm or more or the same as the first digit of the screen diagonal size (in inches). Drilling the self-tapping screw into load-bearing wall without finishing thickness should be:

• For concrete walls– 10 mm plus the diagonal size in centimeters;
• For brick walls– 30 mm plus diagonal size;
• for foam block walls – 50 mm plus the diagonal size.

The requirements listed above do not apply to gypsum plasterboard walls, since they do not have good bearing capacity. If the sheets fit tightly to the main wall, then installation is carried out directly on the wall. Then holes of the corresponding diameter are drilled in the sheet to match the diameter of the dowel head. And placing a spacer made of a steel rod on the dowels, using a 6-sided socket wrench and tapping them with a hammer, push them down until they are seated.

If plasterboard sheets are fixed to the frame and the thickness of the skin is less than 12 mm, then you will have to look for another place or install the TV on a cabinet. The only one possible variant– if the location of the frame is known, which can be used to attach the bracket.

Fixed Wall Bracket Designs

One of the most common designs is a fixed bracket. Mounting system very simple, but you can’t tilt it or rotate the screen. Fixed bracket for a TV, it is easy to mount on the wall and can be made from any components that are affordable or easy to find.

Consider the option of making a mount from wood. Basic materials:

• two wooden planks;
• self-tapping screws with a ring;
• hooks and plastic dowels.

We take two planks of hardwood, they have best quality. The length of the slats should exceed the length of the back wall of the flat-screen TV housing by 10–15 centimeters. To ensure that the screen is tilted at a slight angle, we take the upper bar somewhat thicker than the lower one. We screw two self-tapping screws with a ring to the top edge of each of the planks.

Using bolts that we tighten in special holes, we fix the planks on back wall TV. One bar at the top and one at the bottom. We measure the horizontal and vertical distances between the rings and transfer them to the wall. We get the attachment points. We drill holes in them, install dowels with hooks and hang the product on them.

Given wall mount- easy to manufacture and very reliable. Suitable for models with screen diagonals greater than 26 inches.

Let's look at another simple option for making a fixed wall bracket. We will install a small diagonal product on aluminum corners and a bicycle spoke. You can also use steel corners, but since the load on the fastening is insignificant, and steel is difficult to process, aluminum is preferable.

Basic materials:

• four aluminum corners;
• one bicycle spoke 2 mm thick;
• bolts, screws, plastic dowels.

We select the installation location of the flat TV, the size of the dowels and holes individually, taking into account its size. We fasten two corners with two holes drilled on each to the back cover with bolts. The other two are on the wall with screws. To do this, we apply them to the wall and mark the holes for the dowels on the wall with a pencil. Fastening is best done using plastic dowels. To connect the corners to each other, we drill one hole in the upper side of each of them.

It is desirable that one pair goes inside the other, so the distance between the corners fixed on the wall is made smaller by a couple of millimeters than the distance between the corners on the TV. Having attached them in place, we attach the TV to the wall. We line up the holes drilled in the upper side plane of each corner and thread a bicycle spoke through them.

The knitting needle holds the product in a vertical plane, and the corners inserted into each other prevent its involuntary displacement in the horizontal plane. If the TV needs to be removed from the wall, then we remove the spoke and the connection is released.

Despite its small diameter, the heat-treated bicycle spoke can easily support the weight of smaller models. But for heavier ones, larger diameter studs are needed!

Swivel structures – greater freedom of action

Rotating designs provide greater freedom of action: turning the screen in the desired direction, bringing it closer. Some types of structures regulate vertical angle tilting the screen, which is necessary when the product is suspended high. That's why swivel bracket for wall-mounted TV provides convenient viewing from anywhere in the room.

Basic materials:

• two metal plates;
• a piece of pipe, square profile;
• connecting bolts, screws, dowels.

To make an inclined bracket, we take two metal plates. The larger the diagonal size of the TV and the greater its weight, the bigger size you need to take the plates. For small models, we take two 20x20 cm plates, several millimeters thick. We will mount one to the wall, and the other on the back panel. We install two metal corners on each plate.

To ensure that the mount has sufficient freedom of movement in any direction, we install a piece of pipe between the corners. But it is better to use a 2x2 cm square profile, since it will be more convenient to secure it and align it in a plane.

We place a piece of pipe between two corners and connect them together with a long bolt. Then we screw it to the plate. The pipe (profile) must rotate freely and not touch the plate with its end.

We fix the corners to the plate installed on the wall parallel to the floor. This will allow you to change the angle of rotation of the TV to the right or left. And we set the corners on the plate installed on the rear panel perpendicular to the floor. This will allow you to adjust the angle of inclination.

To increase the mobility of the system, instead of one piece of pipe, it is better to use two pieces connected to each other with a long bolt. This will allow you to move the screen closer or further away, and adjust the distance from the wall.

Thus, we can make any type of bracket with our own hands. This does not require special knowledge, and material costs are minimal. By showing imagination, you can improve the design and make it more interesting and individual. Paint it in a color that goes well with the interior of the room. After finishing work, you can watch your favorite programs and series with great comfort!

The advent of flat-panel LCD TVs has made it possible to optimally use living space. If in a room the TV can be placed on a bedside table, then in the kitchen, in most cases, wall mounting is suitable, which will save a lot of space. When buying a TV, you can ask whether the model you like can be wall-mounted. If you don't want to leaf through the instructions, you can just look at the back cover, on which you will most likely see four threaded holes in a metallic color. Of course, we can’t screw the TV directly to the wall; we will need a bracket for installation.
If you want to be able to turn the TV around and change its angle, then you can buy TV wall swivel bracket. This is especially true for models with a small viewing angle. Manufacturers have produced a myriad of brackets for every taste and color, the cost of which is sometimes comparable to the price of the TV itself.

If you are not going to periodically rotate the TV, you can make a fairly simple fixed wall bracket with your own hands.

To mount our 24-inch TV (screen diagonal 61 cm) we needed 4 aluminum corners and a bicycle spoke. You can also take steel corners, but there is almost no load on them, and aluminum is easier to process. I won’t write down the dimensions, the most important thing is that the holes match and it is advisable to do everything level.

Two corners are attached to the TV, each with two M4 screws.

The other two corners are attached to the wall with screws. First, we drill the corners, and then mark the wall, tracing the holes in the corners with a pencil.

The distance between the wall corners should be a couple of millimeters less so that the corners screwed to the TV will wrap around them on the outside.

In each of the four aluminum profiles In the upper part, one hole was drilled, in a plane perpendicular to the holes made earlier. Now let's attach the TV to the wall. The corners screwed to the wall fit between the corners attached to the TV, and we thread a bicycle spoke into the holes drilled at the top. With its help, the corners are fixed to each other. As a result, the TV hangs on a spoke, and the corners that fit each other fix the structure in other directions. To remove the TV from the wall, simply pull out the spoke and the corners unhook.

Photo for clarity - not yet screwed on corners with a protruding knitting needle.

The bicycle spoke has a diameter of 2 mm, but thanks to heat treatment it can easily withstand the weight of the TV. A regular wire for fastening will not work, because... it's soft. For heavier TVs, use thicker studs.

When attaching corners to the wall, it is preferable to use plastic dowels. Before installation, make sure that the wall can support the weight of the TV. In addition, ventilation must be provided, and there should be no heating devices under the TV. If these rules are violated, the TV will overheat, which will lead to its premature failure.

The antenna cable and power cord can be laid in a cable channel matched to the tone of the wall. In some cases, a regular socket can be replaced with a less bulky plug. In order not to remove the TV from the wall every time I replaced the flash drive, I used a USB extension cable.

By the way, in one of our rooms we have the same homemade bracket monitor attached to the wall.