Fastening the combustion door when laying the stove. Furnace door installation

Folding the stove is one thing, but installing additional structural elements- this is no less important part in the construction of the furnace. This work is very painstaking, does not allow any errors or inaccuracies, and few people know how it is carried out. This article aims to explain all the main points and options for installing a door in a brick oven.

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TO mandatory elements The furnace includes valves, grates and, of course, the door, which is needed to put fuel into the firebox, regulates combustion and prevents firebrands from falling out of the furnace.

Installing the oven door

Preparation includes the following necessary steps:

• Before installation itself, it is necessary to inspect in detail the door itself and the mounting frame (de facto we take the fact that the door is already manufactured for required dimensions). Cracks and distortions of the door and frame are unacceptable; its plane must be flat and fit tightly not only in the area of ​​the lock, but also over the entire area of ​​​​contact with the frame;
• If an unsatisfactory condition is detected, the door is replaced or, if possible, the defects are eliminated;
• The door itself should move freely in the fastening elements. It should be easy to close and open;
• If the stove is made only for coal, then a hole of 13 mm is drilled in the door. in diameter. This hole will be an outlet for gases generated during the combustion of anthracite.

The door is exposed to the greatest impact during oven operation. It carries mechanical loads, as well as increased thermal loads. To ensure that the damper lasts as long as possible, the following instructions for each mounting option must be followed.

On nichrome wire

Nichrome has proven itself to be an excellent solution to this issue due to its increased resistance to heat and at the same time maintaining its ductility in the form of a wire. This mount is guaranteed to last 20 years. How to secure the door to a brick stove:

Main disadvantage this method is that the wire must be kept taut and gradually embedded in the seam between the bricks. The length of the wire is one and a half to two bricks. The whole process is very labor intensive.

On a stainless steel sheet structure

Installing the combustion door of a brick oven using this method is the most common. The frame is a structure that is identical to the door in geometric dimensions, but the frame plates have special collars. They are made from a corner, one side of which fits into the distance between the bricks, into the masonry. Next, everything is coated with the solution.

The method of how to correctly install the door into the oven on a profile corner can be combined with the first one - on a wire, in which case the fastener will be both reliable and durable.

For self-tapping screws or bolts

This method has its place, but among stove makers it is the least common and reliable. The fact is that the design of the frame and door itself is very heavy, especially if it is made of cast iron. This method is applicable to the question of how to secure a door in a stove for the chimney, and not for the firebox.

The door and masonry should have a small buffer, since heating the frame in contact with the brick will lead to its bending, as well as damage to the screws - they can bend and come out of the screw-in point. In this case, the door will mutually move away from the masonry.

Features of installing a door in a metal oven

The main feature is that the same metal materials. It is advisable to choose exactly the same material for the door as for the stove. Most often this is steel with a carbon content of 0.06%; the use of cast iron is also relevant.

In this case, the door is mounted without a frame on simple hinges. The main thing is their structural reliability.

Each owner of a brick oven is free to independently choose door installation options. But the priority is installation methods on nichrome wire or using metal structures. These methods guarantee durability and reliability.

At self-construction stoves, every owner is faced with the installation of special stove elements. Installation is a very responsible job. But not everyone knows how to do it correctly. The following article will tell you in detail about installing a good fire door and all other elements.

Specialized furnace devices include: doors of various purposes, grates and various furnace valves. They are necessary to ensure combustion in the stove and convenient use of the stove. Therefore, all stove elements must be installed efficiently and in good working order.

• Before installing the door, you need to check the strength of its fit to the frame itself, the absence of various distortions, the possibility of good fixation of the closure, the free rotation of the leaf and the presence of appropriate holes for attaching the door to brickwork ovens;
• if any defects are found, they need to be removed or the door replaced;
• it is necessary that the valve gate moves freely in the grooves and completely closes the hole; cracks are not allowed in the frame itself;
• if you plan to heat the stove only with coal, you need to drill a hole measuring 13-18 mm in the gate itself.

Installation Features

When installing furnace elements, you must remember that various materials, such as brick and any metal, expand differently when heated. This is especially true for devices installed in high temperature areas. If the masonry is made dense, with a strong increase in temperature, the devices will tear it. That is why they are installed in such a way that free expansion is possible during heating without endangering the furnace. To do this, you need to lay the grate in the opening with an exact 5 mm gap. During a breakdown, it must be freely removed for replacement. The grate is laid without using mortar, the grooves are filled with sand.

Work process

Installation of a high-quality combustion door. TO this process must be taken with full responsibility and
seriousness. It is most exposed to thermal and thermal expansion. Therefore, it should be installed so that the space in the stove is overlapped as tightly as possible and the door is securely fastened to the masonry. This oven door is secured with clamps, which are made of steel.

The door can be secured at the bottom using steel wire, having a diameter of 2 mm, subsequently close it with a solution. The top of the door cannot be secured with wire, as it will burn out due to the influence of very high temperatures.

Clamps are made of steel. All ears should protrude 10-12 cm beyond the door frame, and they are fastened with special rivets. Bottom part the doors can be secured with a wire about 60 cm long. Before installing the door, you need to wrap the frame with asbestos. The material can be used in the form of cord, crumbs or sheets, moistening with water before use.

In the exact location of the door installation, it is necessary to apply a layer of clay composition to the masonry. When using wire, the ends are hidden in the seams. Be sure to check the installation horizontally with a level and fix it using wooden slats. One end of this strip is placed on the door frame, and the other on three bricks of the masonry, a brick is placed on top of it. Next, bricks are laid on the mortar, gradually laying the door in the stove mass. Each row starts from the door.

Oven

The oven is usually made of strong steel. Gaps are determined using a level, the frame is wrapped around
sheet asbestos, half a brick wide. The plane of the frame at the top must coincide with the masonry surface of the last row of bricks, therefore, if necessary, the asbestos layer must be increased.

The grate must be installed 25-30 cm below the combustion opening with a slope towards the combustion door. The bottom of the firebox is shaped like a trough, and the slots located between the grates should be along the firebox.

To prevent the grate from destroying the masonry when heated, it is necessary to leave 5 mm gaps, which are then covered with sand. The grate cannot be secured using the solution!

The blower door and, together with it, the cleaning door are installed in the same way as the firebox door. The blower door is practically not subject to high temperatures, so it needs to be tightly and firmly walled into the masonry of the stove, treating the seams with clay mortar. The horizontal of the frame is also determined using a level.

Installing a cast iron cookstove

Absolutely all slabs are installed strictly according to construction level. To install you need to top row cut out a groove corresponding to the size of the slab and having a gap of 5 mm on each side. It is strictly forbidden to clamp any sides of the plate, since during heating the opposite side will change and become askew. You need to use a clay-asbestos solution. They also need to be rubbed over the entire top of the slab around the entire perimeter.

Very often the stove is moved only because the firebox door has fallen out of it. Doors usually fall out because they are secured with weak aluminum wire or stranded wires. Sometimes metal plates are laid over the doorway and a wire is screwed behind them from the door. The plates and wire are burned by the fire, then deformed, come out of the masonry, and the door falls out.

Preparing for installation

Preparing for installation

Before installing oven doors, you need to check whether they open easily. There are tight doors that develop over time. I have never seen asbestos gaskets near the doors in any village stove in Russia. IN modern conditions Asbestos was borrowed from industrial furnaces, where it is actually needed in order for the furnaces to withstand high temperatures.
In indoor ovens the temperature is not so high, and the door frame is located far from the fire and therefore its expansion is insignificant. I even secured the door for coal fuel with wire and did without asbestos. Despite the fact that part of the wire near the door is exposed, the door stands quite firmly. For greater guarantee, you can drill holes in the door frame closer to its edge. There are various ways securing the combustion doors.

Checking the door before installation

Most best way to avoid the door falling out - when installing it at the top and bottom, rivet metal plates 2-3 mm thick with widened ends to it, and then press them into the brick.
Before installing the stove door, you need to place three bricks dry on the grate in front of it. A door with attached plates or wires is placed on the mortar, the plates or ends of the wire are spread onto the walls, and the other ends are placed on three bricks and pressed on top? one or two bricks. The accuracy of the door installation is checked by plumb line. As a rule, they use soft, evenly drawn wire, annealed in a furnace or on a fire, with a diameter of 2-3 mm, about 1 m long. It is easy to pull it out by bringing the ends, longer than necessary, behind a pole or into a bracket, pulling and pressing at the same time her to them, now at one end, now at the other. After inserting it into the hole in the door frame, fold the wire in half and twist it tightly so that there are no rings. If they do turn out, especially near the door, they must be flattened with a hammer along the entire length of the wire. In a tense position, pressing the door to the masonry, the wire is inserted into a small chip (hole) 1 made with a hammer in the edge of the brick (depth 5-10 mm) closer to the outer edge so that it does not weaken or slide. In a tense position, the wire is pressed tightly with a pick to the bricks at corner 2 along all rows and pressed onto the mortar with a brick, and then intertwined with the masonry. You can also direct it upward. There should be little mortar near the door, the seam should be made thinner, so it will hold more firmly. The door is not afraid of thermal expansion; with this installation it will last for more than a hundred years. If, when laying on top of the door, the wire gets in the way, then the brick needs to be hewn out in this place.

Securing the top of the oven door

It is good to cover the doorway with two whole bricks so that they are connected in the center of the door. Often the mortar falls out above the doors and the vertical seam becomes visible. To eliminate this, it is enough to make notches-pits in both bricks in the places where the mortar is laid with the angle of a hammer. Then, when the mortar is compressed in the seams, these pits will hold the mortar in the seam and it will not fall out. Doors with holes are shown here. You can make them yourself by simply drilling holes in a regular door.
Very often the fire doors in stoves fail because they have a bad lock (latch), which sometimes falls off after a few days. Even with correct installation plumb, the door without locking begins to open randomly. This happens because there is a heavy handle on the door, and it, like a counterweight, helps open the door. To prevent the door from opening, all sorts of foreign objects are leaned against it - a poker or a piece of wood, which begins to smoke and often catches fire. The industry, apparently, is not able to invent a reliable lock for the fire door.
I propose a simple way to get rid of the random opening of doors, at least in those stoves in which smoke is knocked out of the firebox by the wind. This method will help forgetful owners lock the door. If the pipe is laid incorrectly on top of the roof, the wind gets into the pipe and knocks smoke out of the firebox. At strong wind the door opens and the fire comes out along with the smoke, and sometimes burning coals fly out onto the floor. Therefore, if smoke is coming out of the firebox, you should not leave it unattended. In addition, it is imperative to place a sheet of iron on the floor. To prevent the door from opening, you can do this.

Installation Features

When installing the door into the masonry, it must be kept closed, but not locked. Then you will see how it will open itself at a certain position. To prevent the door from opening when the lock is open, the top of the door must be tilted away from vertical position towards the firebox by 2-3 mm. In this case, the heavy handle will press the door against its frame, but perhaps in windy weather the door will open, so it is better to make a cap over the pipe. The doors can be installed so that they open in the other direction. For this purpose, the doors have a double-sided lock. This is convenient if the owner is left-handed or if they open towards a combustible partition, but the latter can interfere with cleaning. To clean soot, you can install doors one row high, but for cleaning flues using a wire with a rag bow, they are small in height and not convenient.

Attaching the hermetic door

Hermetic doors, fixed into the masonry using riveted plates, are very heavy. It is difficult to fasten such doors with wire, since their weight pulls the wire out of the masonry, but it is possible if the frame with the doors is secured so that it is installed vertically, and the wire is intertwined with the next two rows of masonry. The plates firmly hold the frame with the doors during laying. Such doors with wire fastening last for decades until the furnace is demolished. Sometimes doors, especially old ones, do not line up with the masonry and a gap forms on top of the door. In such cases, it is better to raise the door up flush with the masonry, and under the door to place thin brick quarters on the mortar or to cut off a part of the brick under the door to its entire width, and for the wire to cut out shallow grooves that rise upward obliquely. It’s easier and safer to fold an arch over the door, as they did in the old days.

Material kindly provided by the site: http://remstd.ru/archives/ustanovka-pechnoy-dverki/ Recommended!

When building a stove, it is very important to install the stove appliances correctly. This will keep you safe and give you the pleasure of watching calmly crackling wood or coal in the furnace firebox.

Furnace devices - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, grate, gate (furnace) valves - are installed to regulate the combustion process and ease of operation of the furnaces.

Before installing the door, check for:

♦ tight fit of the canvas to the frame;

♦ free rotation of the blade in the hinges;

♦ no distortion;

♦ possibility of fixing their closure;

♦ presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

The furnace valve gate should move freely in the grooves and tightly close the hole; the frame should not have cracks.

When installing stove appliances It must be remembered that metal and brick, when heated, expand differently. This especially affects the behavior of those devices that will be installed in high temperature areas. If they are tightly walled into brickwork, they will tear it when the temperature rises. Therefore, the grate, furnace door, oven and cast iron floor plate are installed so that free heating is ensured during heating.

their expansion without affecting the masonry. To do this, the grate is placed in the opening with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides (Fig. 108).

The grate must be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage. Lay it without mortar, and fill the grooves with sand.

The installation of the combustion door deserves special attention, since it is most susceptible to thermal expansion, and at the same time it must be installed so that the combustion space is tightly closed and its reliable fastening in the masonry is ensured. Secure the combustion door with clamps made of strip steel (Fig. 109). You can fasten it from below with soft steel wire with a diameter of 1.8-2.0 mm, but it must be covered with a solution. In the vertical part, it is difficult to protect the wire from exposure to high temperatures - it will quickly burn out.

Clamps are made of strip steel. The clamp ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame. The clasp is secured to the frame with rivets. Pieces of steel wire with a diameter of

live so that they get into the masonry seams. Check that the door is level - the top bar of the frame should be horizontal - and secure it with a wooden strip. Place one end of the batten on the door frame, the other on 3 bricks laid flat, and place a brick on top of the batten.

According to the order, lay the bricks on the mortar, starting the laying of each row from the door, gradually sealing it in the mass of the stove.

Install the blower and cleanout doors in the same way, secure with soft steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.0 mm, placing its ends in the masonry seams. The blower door is little exposed to high temperatures - its expansion is insignificant, and since it must hermetically seal the flood space, it is tightly walled up in the masonry, sealing all the seams with clay mortar. It is necessary to strictly check the horizontality of the sides of the frame according to the level.

Ovens are usually made of sheet steel. Therefore, when heated, they will warp greatly if gaps are not left for expansion. They are installed level, the frame is wrapped in moistened sheet asbestos half a brick wide, the layer of asbestos can be increased, as long as the upper plane coincides with the laying plane of the row of bricks along which the ceiling is made.

The cast-iron stove on the kitchen and heating-cooking stove is laid strictly according to the level. To lay it in the bricks of the top row, a groove is cut out to the size of the slab with a gap of 5 mm on each side. You cannot even clamp one side of the plate - when heated, the opposite side will warp. It is better* to lay the slab on a clay-asbestos solution. To prepare such a solution, a liquid clay pulp is made, asbestos chips are added to it, bringing the solution to the desired consistency. The top is rubbed with the same solution kitchen stove along the perimeter.

Gate valves are installed in such a way as to ensure the tightness of the channel closure or chimney. Grooves for the frame with a small gap are cut out in the bricks.

rum for expansion. It is good to install valves on clay-asbestos mortar.

So, the first six rows. The blower door is installed, the grate is mounted and there is a ready-made ash pan. It's time to install combustion door. Let’s linger here a little longer, because the fire door is the element most susceptible to heating, expansion and physical impact, and therefore this process must be taken seriously. You can see about stove doors, but in this project a standard cast iron door is used

Size 250x210 mm.
When installing, you must remember that between the door body and the brick there must be a thermal gap filled with basalt wool or asbestos. The door can be installed in the same way as a flood door, but it is better to use one of the following methods.

The first method is to fix the door directly into the brick walls of the firebox opening through the side holes in the door frame using special screws or knitting needles (Fig. 1). This method is more suitable for doors with a wide shelf. You can also rivet or bolt a steel strip (preferably stainless steel) to the frame and secure its ends in brick seams(Fig. 2 and 3). Sometimes a wire is tied to the ends of the bar for reinforcement (Fig. 3). IN lately This method has also begun to be practiced (Fig. 4) - the combustion door is welded into a steel sheet, and the latter, in turn, is attached to the plane of the wall where the door is located with special dowel-nails through basalt wool or asbestos.

For ours, we will use the second method (Fig. 2).
We place the door in the place where the firebox opening will be, having previously placed a strip of basalt wool or asbestos and fixed it vertically, level or plumb. You can fix it like this => way or some other way. It is important to take into account that the fixation is rigid, but does not interfere with further masonry. Thus, we have it installed and can begin laying.
Continued in

When building a stove, it is very important to install the stove appliances correctly. This will keep you safe and give you the pleasure of watching calmly crackling wood or coal in the furnace firebox.

Furnace devices - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, grate, gate (furnace) valves - are installed to regulate the combustion process and ease of operation of the furnaces.

Before installing the door, check for:

♦ tight fit of the canvas to the frame;

♦ free rotation of the blade in the hinges;

♦ no distortion;

♦ possibility of fixing their closure;

♦ presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

The furnace valve gate should move freely in the grooves and tightly close the hole; the frame should not have cracks.

When installing stove appliances, it is necessary to remember that metal and brick, when heated, expand unequally. This especially affects the behavior of those devices that will be installed in high temperature areas. If they are tightly walled into brickwork, they will tear it when the temperature rises. Therefore, the grate, furnace door, oven and cast iron floor plate are installed so that free heating is ensured during heating.

their expansion without affecting the masonry. To do this, the grate is placed in the opening with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides (Fig. 108).

The grate must be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage. Lay it without mortar, and fill the grooves with sand.

The installation of the combustion door deserves special attention, since it is most susceptible to thermal expansion, and at the same time it must be installed so that the combustion space is tightly closed and its reliable fastening in the masonry is ensured. Secure the combustion door with clamps made of strip steel (Fig. 109). You can fasten it from below with soft steel wire with a diameter of 1.8-2.0 mm, but it must be covered with a solution. In the vertical part, it is difficult to protect the wire from exposure to high temperatures - it will quickly burn out.

Clamps are made of strip steel. The clamp ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame. The clasp is secured to the frame with rivets. Pieces of steel wire with a diameter of

live so that they get into the masonry seams. Check that the door is level - the frame should be horizontal - and secure it with a wooden strip. Place one end of the batten on the door frame, the other on 3 bricks laid flat, and place a brick on top of the batten.

According to the order, lay the bricks on the mortar, starting the laying of each row from the door, gradually sealing it in the mass of the stove.

Install the blower and cleanout doors in the same way, secure with soft steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.0 mm, placing its ends in the masonry seams. The blower door is little exposed to high temperatures - its expansion is insignificant, and since it must hermetically seal the flood space, it is tightly walled up in the masonry, sealing all the seams with clay mortar. It is necessary to strictly check the horizontality of the sides of the frame according to the level.

Ovens are usually made of sheet steel. Therefore, when heated, they will warp greatly if gaps are not left for expansion. They are installed level, the frame is wrapped in moistened sheet asbestos half a brick wide, the layer of asbestos can be increased, as long as the upper plane coincides with the laying plane of the row of bricks along which the ceiling is made.

The cast-iron stove on the kitchen and heating-cooking stove is laid strictly according to the level. To lay it in the bricks of the top row, a groove is cut out to the size of the slab with a gap of 5 mm on each side. You cannot even clamp one side of the plate - when heated, the opposite side will warp. It is better* to lay the slab on a clay-asbestos solution. To prepare such a solution, a liquid clay pulp is made, asbestos chips are added to it, bringing the solution to the desired consistency. The same solution is used to wipe down the top of the kitchen stove around the perimeter.

Gate valves are installed in such a way as to ensure the tightness of the duct or chimney closure. Grooves for the frame with a small gap are cut out in the bricks.

rum for expansion. It is good to install valves on clay-asbestos mortar.

09.02.2007, 11:55

Please tell me from practice how best to fasten stove doors. On a wire, rivet and bend the plates or, as some advise, drill a brick and fasten with anchors. We've probably tried different things and settled on the best option.

10.02.2007, 01:10

Yes, you are right, we tried it in different ways. Previously, up to 15-20 years ago, we always fastened the firebox doors with wire or riveted them with nails (250) onto a steel strip from a hoop wooden barrels, fortunately they were lying around in almost every yard. Now, of course, times are not the same, but we are still knitting, riveting, and bolting. Now we also attach it to both anchors and knitting needles. It all depends on the design, the customer and the fittings used (casting).
Most often, to fasten domestic casting, we use a black or stainless steel strip screwed or riveted to the door, and along the edges of the strip there is wire braiding in the masonry, or a bend of the strip itself at 90 degrees. In the case of using Finnish casting, we attach it to knitting needles, sometimes with anchors. A door placed on a riveted strip serves almost its entire service life, does not wobble or fall out. When attaching to anchors, it is necessary to drill holes in the door frame slightly larger than the diameter of the anchor, for thermal expansion. Installation on a wire may seem like the simplest procedure at first glance, but it is not so. Experience and some knowledge are required, otherwise the door will quickly become loose and may even fall out. The wire should be soft, annealed, knitted, 2-3 mm, twisted tightly without gaps (!), well stretched and should go deep into the masonry (and not 15 - 20 cm, as with some stove makers).
The choice is yours, all methods are good and optimal for your specific place.

11.02.2007, 19:40

Thanks for the consultation. I'll probably attach the Finnish casting with anchors. I would like to make sure that I don’t have to come back to this again. I just doubt it. Over time, the anchor may become loose and fall out due to different expansion coefficients. Maybe there are some tricks, like sealant in the hole or something else.
If so, tell me how best.
Yes, and more. What is knitting? Briefly, for the concept.

12.02.2007, 00:02

I try to install doors on anchors only in intermittent firing devices with low temps. loads (such as a barbecue, a low-power country stove, etc.) And there are no tricks other than those mentioned earlier. It can’t become loose as you can tighten the anchor at any moment. This is an advantage of anchor fastening, but for some reason I don’t trust them under high loads, maybe in vain, maybe I’m playing it safe. There were no complaints.
Good luck.

22.05.2007, 23:06

Now we also attach it to both anchors and knitting needles. It all depends on the design, the customer and the fittings used (casting).

Hello.
I was very surprised to read about attaching the furnace door to the anchor. After all, the anchor creates in the brick - with a serious temperature difference, isn’t this an additional factor in the destruction of the brick?

Zhirnov Vladimir

24.05.2007, 22:31

Good question!
Actually, Kraft knows physics... :)
Apparently he puts an anchor on the sealant

31.05.2007, 21:33

Hello, Vladimir!
Maybe such questions make you smile, but for people like me, who are trying to make their only stove and do not claim the title of “Professional of the stove business,” such subtleties are very interesting and your forum of professionals is very informative.
For example, I can’t find in any book on stove making, or in any description of the order, how the underlay is laid out - is it mounted in the masonry or rests on a corner? There are no words anywhere - as if this is knowledge inherent at birth.

Evgeniy Kolchin

01.06.2007, 09:50

Vinni, naturally this knowledge is not laid down at birth..
here you need to have skills in bricklaying, i.e. the basics of masonry - chopping, cleaving, tying, as well as knowledge in the field of physics - thermal expansion of various materials..
so, if you put a corner in the corner, then naturally it will heat up faster and, expanding, will pull everything and anything that you have nearby; for such purposes, a seal is placed in the corner, which allows you to compensate for this expansion (for example, installing a fire door, gaps between fireclay and red brick), but not in the underlay...
secondly, if you “tie a brick under the cover into the outer masonry, it’s also bad, since the outer wall heats up much later than the entire interior of the stove..
from here, the cover is placed on the inner wall and is held in place by the upper brick

01.06.2007, 15:37

Evgeniy! Thanks for your help.

Pal-Palych

29.07.2010, 16:33

29.08.2010, 18:19

Fastening fireplace door SVT 405 using nichrome wire diameter 1.8 mm. 2 wires are passed into each hole, which are twisted into tight braids and have anchor-shaped hooks at the ends.

25.12.2010, 02:37

Mirkis Semyon

25.12.2010, 02:41

How long will the door last on this “yesterday”? How do you like the fastening on their self-tapping screws? Sometimes my holes didn’t line up either, but then I started making the seams thinner, or because of the brick, but usually I don’t file them. Although I often bet big. Maybe because of this. And in terms of multiplicity they coincide better than many of ours. How many times have I spat that these inventors who produced doors have probably never even seen a brick! This also applies to furnace doors, but especially to cleaning doors.

1. I started using knitting needles in 1998. There were no problems with "downtime". And you can tighten it up. But such fastening is inferior to fastening on the corners, in that the latter is more repairable - the door can be easily removed, i.e. it is easy to replace, and it is very important that the protection of the red brick pokes is implemented.
2. I have not practiced fastening firebox doors with self-tapping screws. Because the same Finns said that it was the day before yesterday. In the Finnish book (in Russian) by Juhani Keppo “Brick stoves and fireplaces. Masonry” this method is very criticized. “Cold” doors - blower doors, cleaning doors - are possible.

25.12.2010, 02:52

Well, I protect the red brick pokes with miter cuts, and then the fireclay reaches the very door. But it’s a fact that there are no corners, and there are stainless steel tins in stores: (When I need stainless steel, I buy a pipe, cut it and straighten it. Although it’s troublesome, it’s affordable. You can find it in any area and run-down town.

Mirkis Semyon

25.12.2010, 02:54

Agree. That the new technology is not very accessible to many stove makers. You need to order corners, have metal self-tapping screws, thick basalt cardboard (preferably Finnish parka). For residents of remote places, wire and clamps are still cheap and cheerful.

Zhirnov Vladimir

25.12.2010, 02:58

In the meantime, just like 100 years ago, the wire rules, probably 90%.

Rules, how!

25.12.2010, 03:04

25.12.2010, 03:07

Rules, how!

So you can push in car washers, spring ones for attaching torpedoes and all kinds of cladding. And then you don’t need to cut the thread - screw in the self-tapping screw:grin:

Mirkis Semyon

25.12.2010, 03:09

Rules, how!
Semyon Mikhailovich once told me about cutting threads in the door frame and fastening it with ordinary bolts

Yes, I remember. I always tell you when the opportunity arises. A very original method, it was invented by V.Yu. Kopaev. (Moscow Guild). Received a patent for the invention. This has already been discussed somewhere on this forum. And even Kopaev himself responded to those posts.

Mirkis Semyon

25.12.2010, 03:14

And most importantly, 20 years is enough. And there you can repair it, just sort out the firebox. Order - where, and how much? And how long will it take to order, arrive, pick up the order... And you’ll have to run around searching. So everything is not so simple. Basalt cardboard is not found everywhere. And I somehow spent three days trying to grinding wheel find by stone in St. Petersburg. It didn’t happen and that’s it. And the chamfers had to be removed.

I agree that it is troublesome and expensive. And not at every facility the Customer can pay for all these innovations. But if the order is solid, then the preparation is serious.

25.12.2010, 03:21

25.12.2010, 03:25

Well I do" folk ovens“, I need to stock up on everything on the way from home to the site. So I’m afraid that for a long time I will be a “not progressive” stove maker. But if the wire runs out, I can always either bring an electrode or rip it out of my neighbor’s rowan fence There is always good soft wire on the ryabitsa :) And I don’t disdain the clamps at all, although more and more often people are asking to install Finnish doors so the knitting needles are there, so again there is no need to run anywhere.

25.12.2010, 03:28

I noticed that polished stainless steel (the corners on the door frame) does not even darken, then maybe you can use regular sheet steel?

It all depends on the design of the fireboxes. In some ovens, the door even heats up to a crimson color. And if the door is located further away, for example because of the lining, then a simple corner will remain there all its life. Yes, it should be embedded into the masonry. Then he won't stick around.

Mirkis Semyon

25.12.2010, 03:34

Yes, I remember. I always tell you when the opportunity arises. Very original way, it was invented by Kopaev V.Yu. (Moscow Guild). Received a patent for the invention. This has already been discussed somewhere on this forum. And even Kopaev himself responded to those posts.

25.12.2010, 03:38

Are the clasps, by chance, not shortened corners? I'd like to take a look too.

25.12.2010, 03:42

Klyamers are strips of tin, about 2-3 cm wide and 25-30 cm long. They are riveted (I usually use cut nails) to the doors, through the holes. And the free ends are tucked into the masonry. It holds better than wire and does not stretch.

25.12.2010, 03:56

Thanks Mikhail, now I understand.

25.12.2010, 12:15

It rules when everything is available. He walked into the shop, pointed his finger, “give me this door and the corners that attach to it,” and then he rules. In the meantime, just like 100 years ago, the wire rules, probably 90%.

Order - where, and how much? And how long will it take to order, arrive, pick up the order... And you’ll have to run around searching. So everything is not so simple. Basalt cardboard is not found everywhere.

Well, I’m making “people’s ovens”, I need to stock everything on the way from home to the site. So I’m afraid that I will remain a “non-progressive” stove maker for a long time. But if the wire runs out, I can always either bring an electrode or rip it out of my neighbor’s rowan fence. There is always good soft wire on the grouse :) And I don’t disdain clamps at all.
Here's what to add, except that I haven't even seen Finnish doors, but I install everything for the most part from local bottling, or old Soviet ones, or Tsarist Poland.

And you say yesterday.

25.12.2010, 13:05

Vova, don’t be too upset. We like to open our mouths and look at bright candy wrappers from abroad. Forgetting that we live in a country with vast experience in stove heating. So without seeing the spokes and other things, you haven’t lost much. If the door on the wire lasts for 20-30 years, then it needs to be replaced with a fastener, if it is more technologically advanced and affordable. And if you have to run for two days to get corners, plates, etc., or carry a vice on yourself...then the question arises - do you need it?

25.12.2010, 13:13

I found it in March of this year http://www..php?p=20952&postcount=4 , and the topic itself is http://www..php?t=2258

To make your country house warm and cozy, install a stove. Install the oven, and the temperature mark will always be at the required level. You can do the fire yourself, if, of course, you have special skills, and we will help you with this. So, let's build a furnace.

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Furnace laying

After a solid base has been completed - the foundation of the fireplace, we proceed to construct the body of the device. First, the bricks of the first row are laid out dry according to the order, and it is important to control the size of the seams. After the position of the corner bricks has been determined, the row is laid on the mortar, making sure to check the horizontality using a building level. If elements protrude outward, they are besieged with blows of a mallet. After the first row is completed, it is checked with a tape measure, both diagonally and along the perimeter. Make sure that all diagonals are equal, otherwise you will not be able to build a high-quality fireplace. Only after this is the middle of the first row filled with bricks and mortar.

After the first row of the furnace is completed, begin the construction of the second row, as in the first case, controlling the verticality of the corners using a level. The second row is made in the same way as the first: first, the brick is laid around the perimeter, and then the middle is filled. Having laid the second row, nails are driven into the corners of the seams, the length of which can vary from eighty to one hundred millimeters.

After this, a plumb line is lowered to all corners of the laid out row from points previously marked on the ceiling.

Next, nails are driven into the marked points, a nylon cord is tied to them and it is pulled with force. Using a plumb line, check whether the cords are tensioned correctly. If you make a mistake, you can simply bend the nails a little and correct the situation. Further laying will be much easier thanks to the cord, and the time spent on work is reduced.

All subsequent corners are performed in exactly the same way as the first and second rows we described. When laying out each row, the outer surface of the device body is cleaned using a construction trowel, which can be used to remove the remaining mortar. After completing four to five rows, they are wiped with a wet cloth.

Particular attention should be paid to the seams of the structure. They should be as thin as possible, since thick seams quickly begin to crumble and the furnace masonry is destroyed. The solution should be dense and fill the seam to its full depth. Moreover, if you are making a vertical seam, you must cover it with bricks from the row located above. It would be ideal if you position the brick so that the vertical seam is in the middle of the top element. Of course, this will not be easy to achieve, but, be that as it may, the overlap should be at least a quarter of a brick.

During the construction of the smoke channel, the brick should not be laid with the hewn side inward, this will subsequently impede the passage of flue gases.

The fuel chamber of the hearth is considered the most vulnerable place to high temperatures, which is why it should be laid out not from simple brick, but from durable fireclay material. If possible, ligation of sutures should be abandoned altogether, since there is a difference in thermal expansion and, as a rule, rapid destruction of the masonry. Thus, the lining is done either on edge, or the row is laid out completely. The lining and fireclay material are laid with a gap of approximately five millimeters between them.

Installation of cleanout and blower doors

Before installing the doors, check the tight fit of the door leaf to the frame. Attention should also be paid to checking the rotation of the blade, to eliminate distortions, etc. If there are some defects, we eliminate them.

Installation of the doors begins directly with screwing the wire, which is inserted into the holes of the doors. The recommended wire length is fifty to sixty centimeters.

Where the door will be installed, apply a portion of the solution and insert the element, securing it with bricks and checking the horizontal and vertical level. Finally, the wire is inserted into the masonry seams.

Grate installation

It is important to remember the thermal expansion of materials. So, cast iron and brick have different indicators, this must be taken into account when installing a grate and other cast iron appliances. If you do not leave a gap between the masonry and the body of the device, the headset will tear the masonry and the fireplace will become unusable. Recommended gaps are at least five millimeters. In addition, the grate is changed several times during the operation of the heating device, so its free placement will not become an obstacle to replacement.

Fuel Door Installation

The firebox door is installed similarly to the blower door, but it is wrapped with asbestos cord. At the installation stage, the device must be checked using a building level and fixed with bricks.

If you are going to use the fireplace intensively, the wire that secures the door can quickly burn out, so it would be more advisable to replace it with a clamp. To make the clamp, strip steel is used, the cross-section of which is twenty-five by two millimeters. The clamp ears extend ten to twenty centimeters beyond the frame and are attached to the frame using bolts and nuts.

The door is covered with one half of a brick

or a brick “into the castle”

If the opening is more than twenty-five centimeters, then the overlap should be made in the form of a wedge lintel.

Installation of the stove

The first row where the slab will be installed is first laid out dry (without mortar). After this, the slab is laid and its configuration is outlined. Next, a groove is selected in the brick with the condition that subsequently the slab will have an expansion of about five millimeters. The brick is laid on the mortar. The groove itself is also filled with the solution, and an asbestos cord is placed around the perimeter of the slab. Only after all these procedures do we lower the slab and hammer it down with a mallet

Oven installation

The oven, installed in the oven body, is wrapped with asbestos around its entire perimeter. The wall adjacent to the oven is laid out on edge, and the top is covered with a solution two and a half to three centimeters thick. This will prevent the oven walls from burning out quickly.

Laying arches and vaults

During the construction of stoves and fireplaces, it is often necessary to block various openings, the fuel chamber, and openings. To do this, use the method of laying out jumpers, both simple and complex shapes. The ceiling in the wall is called an arch, and between two walls is called a vault. The number of elements must be odd, and the central lock is called a “castle”.

The jumper usually begins to be laid out from the heels, according to a pre-drawn template. During construction, you should adhere to the proposed size of the heels, since the height of the arch or vault may be different.

When building a stove independently, each owner is faced with the installation of special stove elements. Installation is a very responsible job. But not everyone knows how to do it correctly. The following article will tell you in detail about installing a good fire door and all other elements.

Specialized furnace devices include: doors of various purposes, grates and various furnace valves. They are necessary to ensure combustion in the stove and convenient use of the stove. Therefore, all stove elements must be installed efficiently and in good working order.

• before installing the door, you need to check the strength of its fit to the frame itself, the absence of various distortions, the possibility of good fixation of the closure, the free rotation of the blade and the presence of appropriate holes for attaching the door in the brickwork of the stove;
• if any defects are found, they need to be removed or the door replaced;
• it is necessary that the valve gate moves freely in the grooves and completely closes the hole; cracks are not allowed in the frame itself;
• if you plan to heat the stove only with coal, you need to drill a hole measuring 13-18 mm in the gate itself.

Installation Features

When installing furnace elements, we must remember that different materials, such as brick and any metal, expand differently during heating. This is especially true for devices installed in high temperature areas. If the masonry is made dense, with a strong increase in temperature, the devices will tear it. That is why they are installed in such a way that free expansion is possible during heating without endangering the furnace. To do this, you need to lay the grate in the opening with an exact 5 mm gap. During a breakdown, it must be freely removed for replacement. The grate is laid without using mortar, the grooves are filled with sand.

Work process

Installation of a high-quality combustion door. This process must be approached with full responsibility and

seriousness. It is most exposed to thermal and thermal expansion. Therefore, it should be installed so that the space in the stove is overlapped as tightly as possible and the door is securely fastened to the masonry. This oven door is secured with clamps, which are made of steel.

The door can be secured at the bottom using steel wire with a diameter of 2 mm, and subsequently closed with a solution. The top of the door cannot be secured with wire, as it will burn out due to the influence of very high temperatures.

Clamps are made of steel. All ears should protrude 10-12 cm beyond the door frame, and they are fastened with special rivets. The lower part of the door can be secured with a wire about 60 cm long. Before installing the door, you need to wrap the frame with asbestos. The material can be used in the form of cord, crumbs or sheets, moistening with water before use.

In the exact location of the door installation, it is necessary to apply a layer of clay composition to the masonry. When using wire, the ends are hidden in the seams. Be sure to check the horizontal position of the installation with a level and fix it using a wooden strip. One end of this strip is placed on the door frame, and the other on three bricks of the masonry, a brick is placed on top of it. Next, bricks are laid on the mortar, gradually laying the door in the stove mass. Each row starts from the door.

Oven

The oven is usually made of strong steel. Gaps are determined using a level, the frame is wrapped around

sheet asbestos, half a brick wide. The plane of the frame at the top must coincide with the masonry surface of the last row of bricks, therefore, if necessary, the asbestos layer must be increased.

The grate must be installed 25-30 cm below the combustion opening with a slope towards the combustion door. The bottom of the firebox is shaped like a trough, and the slots located between the grates should be along the firebox.

To prevent the grate from destroying the masonry when heated, it is necessary to leave 5 mm gaps, which are then covered with sand. The grate cannot be secured using the solution!

The blower door and, together with it, the cleaning door are installed in the same way as the firebox door. The blower door is practically not exposed to high temperatures, so it must be tightly and firmly walled into the stove masonry, treating the seams with clay mortar. The horizontal of the frame is also determined using a level.

Installing a cast iron cookstove

Absolutely all slabs are installed strictly according to the construction level. For installation, it is necessary to cut out a groove in the very top row that corresponds to the size of the slab and has a gap of 5 mm on each side. It is strictly forbidden to clamp any sides of the plate, since during heating the opposite side will change and become askew. You need to use a clay-asbestos solution. They also need to be rubbed over the entire top of the slab around the entire perimeter.