Table for a cnc machine with your own hands. Self-made CNC milling machine
In our time, among handicraft people, it is increasingly possible to find new machines that are controlled not by hands, as we are all used to, but by computer software and computerized equipment. This innovation is called CNC (Computer Numerical Control).
This technology is used in many institutions, in large industries, as well as in the master's workshops. An automated control system saves a lot of time and improves the quality of products.
The automated system is controlled by a program from a computer. This system includes asynchronous motors with vector control, which have three axes of movement of the electric engraver: X, Z, Y. Below we will consider what machines with automatic control and calculations are.
As a rule, all CNC machines use an electric engraver, or a milling cutter, on which you can change nozzles. A numerically controlled machine is used to give decorative elements to various materials and not only. CNC machines, due to advances in the computer world, must have many functions. These features include:
Milling
The mechanical process of processing a material, during which the cutting element (nozzle, in the form of a cutter) produces rotational movements on the surface of the workpiece.
Engraving
It consists in applying this or that image on the surface of the workpiece. To do this, use either milling cutters or a chisel (a steel rod with one end pointed at an angle).
drilling
Machining of the material by cutting, with the help of a drill, due to which holes of different diameters and holes with many faces of different sections and depths are obtained.
laser cutting
The method of cutting and cutting the material, in which there is no mechanical action, the high accuracy of the workpiece is maintained, and the deformations performed by this method have minimal deformations.
Plotter
High-precision drawing of the most complex schemes, drawings, geographical maps is carried out. Drawing is done at the expense of the writing block, by means of a specialized pen.
Drawing and drilling PCBs
Production of boards, as well as drawing electrically conductive circuits on the surface of a dielectric plate. Also drilling small holes for radio components.
It is up to you to decide what functions your future CNC machine will perform. And then consider the design of the CNC machine.
Variety of CNC machines
Technological features and capabilities of these machines are equated to universal machines. However, in the modern world, there are three types of CNC machines:
Turning
The purpose of such machines is to create parts according to the type of bodies of revolution, which consists in processing the surface of the workpiece. Also manufacture of internal and external threads.
Milling
The automated operation of these machines consists in the processing of planes and spaces of various body blanks. Milling is carried out flat, contour and stepped, at various angles, as well as from several sides. Drilling holes, threading, reaming and boring workpieces.
Drilling - boring
They perform reaming, drilling holes, boring and reaming, countersinking, milling, threading and much more.
As we can see, CNC machines have a wide range of functions that they perform. Therefore, they are equated with universal machines. All of them are very expensive and it is simply impossible to buy any of the above installations, due to financial insufficiency. And you might think that you have to do all these actions manually, throughout your life.
You may not be upset. The skillful hands of the country, even from the first appearance of factory CNC machines, began to create home-made prototypes that work no worse than professional ones.
All component materials for CNC machines can be ordered on the Internet, where they are freely available and are quite inexpensive. By the way, the body of an automated machine can be made by hand, and you can go to the Internet for the correct dimensions.
Tip: Before choosing a CNC machine, decide what material you will be processing. This choice will be of major importance in the construction of the machine, as it directly depends on the size of the equipment, as well as the cost of it.
The design of the CNC machine depends entirely on your choice. You can purchase a ready-made standard set of all the necessary parts and simply assemble it in your garage or workshop. Or order all equipment separately.
Consider a standard set of parts on the picture:
- Directly the work area, which is made from plywood, is a tabletop and a side frame.
- Guide elements.
- Guide holders.
- Linear bearings and plain bushings.
- Support bearings.
- Leading screws.
- Stepper motor controller.
- Controller power supply.
- Electric engraver or milling cutter.
- A coupling that connects the lead screw shaft to the stepper motor shaft.
- Stepper motors.
- Running nut.
Using this list of parts, you can safely create your own CNC wood router with automated work. When you assemble the entire structure, you can safely get to work.
Principle of operation
Perhaps the most important element on this machine is a milling cutter, engraver or spindle. It depends on your choice. If you have a spindle, then the tail of the cutter, which has a collet for fastening, will be tightly attached to the collet chuck.
The chuck itself is directly mounted on the spindle shaft. The cutting part of the cutter is selected based on the selected material. An electric motor, which is located on a moving carriage, rotates the spindle with a cutter, which allows you to process the surface of the material. The stepper motors are controlled by a controller, to which commands are given from a computer program.
Electronics The machine works directly on the computer software, which must be supplied with the ordered electronics. The program sends commands in the form of G-codes to the controller. Thus, these codes are stored in the RAM of the controller.
After selecting a processing program on the machine (finishing, roughing, three-dimensional), the commands are distributed to stepper motors, after which the surface of the material is processed.
Tip: Before starting work, it is necessary to test the machine with a specialized program and skip a trial part to make sure that the CNC works correctly.
Assembly
Machine assembly do it yourself won't take you too long. Moreover, on the Internet now you can download a lot of different schemes and drawings. If you bought a set of parts for a homemade machine, then its assembly will be very fast.
So let's look at one of drawings actual manual machine.
Drawing of a homemade CNC machine.
As a rule, first of all, a frame is made of plywood, 10-11 millimeters thick. The tabletop, side walls and the movable portal for installing a router or spindle are made only of plywood material. The tabletop is made movable, furniture guides of appropriate sizes are used.
As a result, you should get such a frame. After the frame structure is ready, a drill and special crowns come into play, with which you can make holes in plywood.
The frame of the future CNC machine.
In the finished frame, it is necessary to prepare all the holes in order to install bearings and guide bolts in them. After this installation, it is possible to install all fasteners, electrical installations, etc.
After the assembly is completed, an important step is to set up the machine software and computer program. When setting up the program, the operation of the machine is checked for the correctness of the specified dimensions. If everything is ready, you can start the long-awaited work.
Tip: Before starting work, it is necessary to check the correct fastening of the workpiece material and the reliability of the fastening of the working nozzle. Also make sure that the selected material matches the manufactured machine.
Equipment setup
Adjustment of the CNC machine is carried out directly from the working computer on which the program for working with the machine is installed. It is in the program that the necessary drawings, graphs, drawings are loaded. Which in sequence are converted by the program into G - codes necessary to control the machine.
When everything is loaded, trial actions are performed with respect to the selected material. It is during these actions that a check is made of all the necessary preset sizes.
Tip: Only after a thorough check of the machine's performance, you can start full-fledged work.
Safety
The rules and safety precautions when working with this machine are no different from working on all other machines. Below are the most basic ones:
- Check the correct operation of the machine before work.
- Clothing must be properly tucked in so that nothing sticks out anywhere and cannot get into the working area of the machine.
- You must wear a headdress that will hold your hair.
- There should be a rubber mat or a low wooden crate near the machine, which will protect against leakage of electricity.
- Access to the machine by children must be strictly prohibited.
- Before working with the machine, check all fasteners for their strength.
Advice: It is necessary to approach the work on the machine with a sober head and understanding that if you work incorrectly, you can cause irreparable harm to yourself.
With complete safety requirements for working with the machine, you can find it on the World Wide Web, i.e. on the Internet and check them out.
Video reviews
Overview of the assembly of a homemade CNC machine
Video overview of a simple cnc machine
Overview of the possibilities of a homemade CNC machine
Overview of stepper motors
Overview video multi-channel stepper motor driver
Knowing that a CNC milling machine is considered sophisticated technical and electronic equipment, many craftsmen think that it simply cannot be done by hand.
However, this opinion is not true: you can make such a device with your own hands, but for this you need to have not only its complete drawing, but also a set of certain tools and suitable components.
DIY CNC machine (drawings)
When deciding to create a homemade special CNC machine, remember that this can take a lot of time. In addition, you will need a lot of money.
To make a milling machine that is equipped with a CNC system, you can use 2 methods: purchase a ready-made set of specially selected parts from which such equipment is assembled, or find all the components and independently assemble a device that fully meets all your requirements.
Preparation for work
If you planned to make a CNC machine yourself without using a ready-made kit, then the first thing you will need to do is stop at special scheme, on which such a mini-device will work.
Equipment assembly
The basis of the assembled milling equipment can be a rectangular beam, which must be firmly fixed on the rails.
The supporting structure of the equipment must have high rigidity. When installing it, it is better not to use welded joints, but to attach all parts only with screws.
In the milling equipment that you will assemble yourself, a mechanism must be provided that will ensure that the working device moves in a vertical direction. It is best to take a screw gear for it, the rotation of which will be transmitted using a toothed belt.
The main part of the machine
An important part of such a machine is its vertical axis, which for a home-made device can be made from an aluminum plate. Remember to the dimensions of such an axis were precisely matched to the dimensions of the device being created.
And so, within the framework of this article-instruction, I want you, together with the author of the project, a 21-year-old mechanic and designer, to make your own. The narration will be conducted in the first person, but know that, to my great regret, I am not sharing my experience, but only freely retelling the author of this project.
There will be a lot of drawings in this article, the notes to them are made in English, but I am sure that a real techie will understand everything without further ado. For ease of understanding, I will break the story into "steps".
Foreword from the author
Already at the age of 12, I dreamed of building a machine that would be able to create various things. A machine that will give me the ability to make any household item. Two years later, I came across the phrase CNC or more precisely, to the phrase "CNC milling machine". After I found out that there are people who can make such a machine on their own for their own needs, in their own garage, I realized that I could do it too. I must do it! For three months, I tried to collect the right parts, but did not budge. So my obsession gradually faded away.
In August 2013, the idea of building a CNC milling machine re-engaged me. I had just completed my bachelor's degree from the University of Industrial Design, so I was quite confident in my abilities. Now I clearly understood the difference between me today and me five years ago. I learned how to work with metal, mastered the techniques of working on manual metalworking machines, but most importantly, I learned how to use development tools. I hope this tutorial will inspire you to create your own CNC machine!
Step 1: Design and CAD Model
It all starts with thoughtful design. I made several sketches to get a better feel for the size and shape of the future machine. After that I created a CAD model using SolidWorks. After I modeled all the parts and assemblies of the machine, I prepared technical drawings. I used these drawings for the manufacture of parts on manual metalworking machines: and.
To be honest, I love good handy tools. That is why I have tried to make the maintenance and adjustment of the machine as easy as possible. I placed the bearings in special blocks in order to be able to quickly replace. The guides are serviceable so my car will always be clean when the job is done.
Downloads "Step 1"
dimensions
Step 2: Bed
The bed provides the machine with the necessary rigidity. It will be equipped with a movable portal, stepper motors, Z-axis and spindle, and later the work surface. I used two 40x80mm Maytec aluminum profiles and two 10mm thick aluminum end plates to create the base frame. I connected all the elements to each other on aluminum corners. To strengthen the structure inside the main frame, I made an additional square frame from profiles of a smaller section.
In order to avoid dust on the rails in the future, I installed aluminum protective corners. The angle is mounted using T-nuts, which are installed in one of the grooves of the profile.
Both end plates are fitted with bearing blocks for mounting the drive screw.
Carrier frame assembly
Corners to protect the rails
Downloads "Step 2"
Drawings of the main elements of the bed
Step 3: Portal
The movable portal is the executive body of your machine, it moves along the X axis and carries the milling spindle and the Z axis support. The higher the portal, the thicker the workpiece that you can process. However, a high gantry is less resistant to the loads that occur during processing. The high side posts of the portal act as levers relative to the linear rolling bearings.
The main task that I planned to solve on my CNC milling machine was the processing of aluminum parts. Since the maximum thickness of aluminum blanks suitable for me is 60 mm, I decided to make the portal clearance (the distance from the working surface to the upper cross beam) equal to 125 mm. In SolidWorks, I converted all my measurements into a model and technical drawings. Due to the complexity of the parts, I processed them on an industrial CNC machining center, which additionally allowed me to process chamfers, which would be very difficult to do on a manual metal milling machine.
Downloads "Step 3"
Step 4: Z Axis Caliper
In the Z axis design, I used a front panel that attaches to the Y axis travel bearings, two plates to reinforce the assembly, a plate to mount the stepper motor, and a panel to mount the milling spindle. On the front panel, I installed two profile guides along which the spindle will move along the Z axis. Please note that the Z axis screw does not have a counter support at the bottom.
Downloads "Step 4"
Step 5: Guides
Guides provide the ability to move in all directions, ensure smooth and precise movements. Any play in one of the directions can cause inaccuracies in the processing of your products. I chose the most expensive option - profiled hardened steel rails. This will allow the structure to withstand high loads and provide the positioning accuracy I need. To ensure the guides are parallel, I used a special indicator during their installation. The maximum deviation relative to each other was no more than 0.01 mm.
Step 6: Screws and Pulleys
Screws convert rotational motion from stepper motors into linear motion. When designing your machine, you can choose from several options for this assembly: A screw-nut pair or a ball screw pair (ball screw). The screw nut, as a rule, is subjected to more frictional forces during operation, and is also less accurate relative to the ball screw. If you need increased accuracy, then you definitely need to opt for a ball screw. But you should know that ball screws are quite expensive.
It's nice to see when a person made all and other household items with his own hands. To simplify the process of cutting metal or cutting wood elements, they build home-made machines and fixtures for the home workshop. This solution saves not only time for the manufacture of products, but also money for the purchase of finished products. A few practical and interesting options are discussed below.
DIY pipe bending machine
Read in the article
How to use homemade machines and fixtures for the home workshop
The use of home-made machines and devices for the home workshop is aimed at solving several problems:
- Simplification of the metal processing process. In the course of creating household items, a metal carver or a press is often required.
- Improvement in wood processing. Even to build a small barn or make a wooden one, others are needed.
Buying a ready-made tool is quite expensive, so the use of home-made machines and accessories for the garage is becoming more and more relevant every day. Among the most common options for home tools are:
- carpentry workbench;
- device for quick sharpening of knives;
- device for sharpening metal drills;
- drilling machines;
- Press;
- cutting disc machines.
Here are a few photos of do-it-yourself tools and fixtures from "homemade" ones:
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Practical DIY tool shelves
Before creating devices, and with your own hands, determine the storage location for all devices, so that later you do not have to look throughout the workshop or where everything lies. It is not difficult to make a shelf for tools with your own hands, the main thing is to decide on its dimensions and material of manufacture.
The easiest way to make shelves is to assemble them from wood. Do not forget about the need to cover the finished structure with a protective varnish or to prevent rotting and swelling of the wood.
You can create a combined version of a metal support and wooden shelves. Here are detailed instructions for creating such a homemade model:
| Image | Sequencing |
 | Assemble the frame. To do this, prepare two side frames, consisting of 4 corners. Connect elements with . Then, tighten 2 frames together using 4 corners. |
 | When the frame is fully assembled, proceed to the manufacture of shelves. They can be made from wood or metal, as well as from other improvised dense materials. It is enough to cut the canvases of a suitable size and fix them on a metal base. |
 | If desired, you can make the rack movable by attaching four small wheels. Or firmly install it in the allotted place in the garage. |
You can find other interesting projects and drawings for making tool shelves. Watch a video on the topic:
And also make useful household appliances with your own hands:
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We make a carpentry workbench with our own hands according to the drawings: video instructions and photo examples
Among the common do-it-yourself devices, a workbench is distinguished. Durable and dimensional, allowing you to securely fix the workpiece, it is useful for high-quality cutting of wood and creating various elements from it.
The device package includes:
- Working surface. For it, a solid one is used to increase the life of the device. The thickness must be at least 6 cm.
- Supports. Assembled from wooden beams or metal plates. The main task is to ensure the stability of the entire mechanism.
- Vice for fixing the product. If the table is long, you can install two vices at once.
- Tool box. A useful recess or pull-out design that provides quick access to the small parts you need.
To independently assemble a carpentry workbench for your workshop, you should choose a drawing, purchase material for work.
Do-it-yourself carpentry workbench drawings
Before buying materials to build your own workbench, you should think about a detailed drawing. It should include the dimensions of the machine itself, it is advisable to note the dimensions of the materials used and their quantity.
For example, a finished drawing of a folding workbench with your own hands may look like this:
Whatever model you choose to create, consider several features of the desktop that provide the convenience of cutting wood:
- the height and length of the hands of the master: the height and width of the countertop depend on these parameters;
- which hand is working: place the vise on the right or left;
- what blanks will be made: selection of the table shape;
- how much space in the room you allocate for a workbench.
Given all these parameters, it will be easier for you to decide on the drawings of the carpentry workbench and the dimensions of the machine. Here are some interesting examples:
Instructions for assembling a wooden workbench with your own hands
You can buy a wooden workbench in a store or through online catalogs, but it's cheaper to make it yourself. Let's take as a basis a simple version with typical tabletop dimensions: length - 150-200 cm, width 70-120 cm.
Manufacturing work will include several stages:
| Image | What need to do |
 | Make the top cover from thick ones to make a shield with a width of 70 to 200 cm. Fasten the elements onto long nails, and you need to drive them in from the outside, and carefully bend them from the inside. The working surface of the workbench is made only of wood or. |
 | Sheathe the lid along the lower perimeter with a 5 by 5 cm timber. This will make it more convenient to mount the vertical supports. The location of the supports depends on the size of the countertop. It is better to make them from a thick rectangular bar at least 120 by 120 mm. |
 | The carpenter's workbench must be installed correctly. Be sure to fasten it firmly. If it will be mounted on the street under a canopy, then dig holes for the supports. Indoors, use other methods of fastening. |
When the structure is assembled, place a vise on it. To fully understand how to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands, watch the video:
Making a carpenter's vise for a workbench with your own hands
Professional "homemade" assemble not only tables for work, but also a vise with their own hands according to the drawings. Any design of such a clamp will include several elements:
- Supports where each has a sponge for clamping.
- Moving clamping jaw.
- Metal guides. A sponge moves over them.
- Lead screw, for moving elements.
- collar. Required to rotate the screw.
In the manufacture of homemade vise with your own hands, you can use various improvised materials. For example, there is a design option from a profile pipe. To do this, prepare several pieces of pipe of different sizes, a steel stud with a large thread and double nuts.
Instructions for creating a verstal vice from a profile pipe:
| Image | What need to do |
 | The largest pipe acts as a body. Supports are soldered to it from below. A 3-4 mm steel flange is put on the back side. A hole for the running nut is drilled in the center, and opposite the front support there is a back sponge. |
 | On the inner moving part, the front steel flange. A stud is mounted in it, with lock nuts fixed to it. Thrust washers are put on both sides of the flange. The last element is a movable tube attached to the front sponge. |
And also watch the video "do-it-yourself vise at home":
Do-it-yourself metal workbench drawings
A metal workbench does not differ much from a carpenter's workbench. At the heart of a rigid metal, not a wooden frame. A vise is attached to it, and the entire workbench is designed to withstand the force of a blow from a sledgehammer.
Do-it-yourself metal workbenches can have one, two or three cabinets, and also not have shelves and drawers for small parts. In terms of strength for working in a garage, you can make an ordinary table of metal up to 5 mm thick and a reinforced structure, where sheets from 10 to 30 mm are applicable.
Here are some useful blueprints for making a metal workbench for your workshop:
How to make a do-it-yourself knife sharpener: drawings and photo examples
No home is complete without a knife in the kitchen. It is rather difficult to make the correct one without special devices: it is necessary to maintain the desired angle and achieve the ideal sharpness of the blade.
For each knife, a certain sharpening angle must be observed:
- Razor and scalpel require an angle of 10-15⁰.
- Knife for cutting bakery products - 15-20⁰.
- Classic multifunctional knives - 25-30⁰.
- For hunting and camping, they take a device with a blade angle from 25 to 30⁰.
- If you want to cut hard materials, then sharpen at an angle of 30-40⁰.
To ensure the desired angle, it is worth buying or making a sharpening device. For example, you can assemble a sharpener with your own hands.
A comment
Specialist in the selection of tools "VseInstrumenty.ru"
Ask a Question"If you use sharpening not every day, then 1000 rpm is enough for a quality result and a long service life of the device.
"To assemble such a machine, a motor from a “washer” with a power of 200 watts is useful. Completely to create a grindstone from an engine from the Workflow for creating such a simple device will be as follows:
- Sand the wood blocks with sandpaper to remove any burrs. Make a markup depending on the desired angle.
- Attach a stone to the drawn line to sharpen the blade. To do this, attach it to the bar and mark its width. Then, on the markings, make cuts, up to 1.5 cm deep.
- In the resulting recesses, fix the abrasive bars so that the grooves match. Then, install the sharpening stone by screwing it onto the bolts.
There are many ways to make a homemade knife sharpener. Choose the right one and try to create a convenient and useful tool for the home.
How to make a do-it-yourself tool for sharpening a drill for metal
They independently make not only a sharpener for blades, but also a machine for sharpening drills for metal. Here are some drawings to help you get started:
Ready-made home machine The simplest and most common version of such equipment for the garage is a converted drill. For work you will need: - bed for the base;
- rotation mechanism;
- vertical stand.
For a rack, boards are usually used. The mass of the drill is small, so there is no need to use metal. In this case, the frame must be made massive in order to reduce vibration during the operation of the device.
To correctly connect the bed and the vertical stand, as well as assemble all the equipment into one whole machine, pay attention to the video instruction:
Do-it-yourself drawings with dimensions for a drilling machine
To properly make any machine or practical device for private use, you first need to make a drawing with dimensions. Only then proceed to the preparation of materials and assembly of the device.
Here are some examples of do-it-yourself drilling machine drawings from a drill:
And you can also make homemade vise for a drilling machine. Below is a video instruction for assembling such a device:
Article
For many projects, a CNC router is essential for good and fast results. After some research on the current CNC machines, I came to the conclusion that all machines under 150k cannot meet my needs in terms of space and precision.
What I want:
- working space 900 x 400 x 120 mm
- relatively quiet spindle with high power at low speeds
- highest possible rigidity (for milling aluminum parts)
- highest possible accuracy
- USB interface
- spend up to 150 thousand rubles
With these requirements, I started 3D designing with schematics and drawings, testing the many parts available. The main requirement: the parts must be combined with each other. In the end I decided to build the machine on a 30-B type nut with 8 aluminum frames with 16mm ball bearing spindles, 15mm ball bearing guides and 3 amp NEMA23 stepper motors that fit easily into a pre-built mounting system.
These parts fit together perfectly without the need for special parts.
Step 1: Building the Frame
The key is good planning...
Parts arrived a week after ordering. And in a few minutes, the X-axis was ready. - Easier than I thought! The 15mm HRC linear bearings are of very good quality and once installed you immediately know that they will perform very well.
After 2 hours, when assembling a CNC machine on Arduino with my own hands, the first problem appeared: the spindles do not want to get into roller bearings. My freezer isn't big enough for 1060mm spindles, so I decided to get some dry ice, which meant putting the project on hold for a week.
Step 2: Spindle setup
A friend came in with a bag of dry ice, and after a few minutes of freezing, the spindles fit perfectly into the roller bearings. A few more screws and it looks a bit like a CNC machine.
Step 3: Electrical Parts
The mechanical part is finished and I'm moving on to the electrical parts.
Since I am very familiar with Arduino and want to have full control over USB, I first chose an Arduino Uno with a GRBL shield and TB8825 steppers. This configuration works very simply and after a little tweaking the machine is PC manageable. Fine!
But since the TB8825 runs at max 1.9A and 36V (gets very hot), it's enough to start the car, but I noticed a step loss due to too little power. A long milling process at this temperature is a nightmare.
I bought a cheap TB6560 from China (300 rubles each, 3 weeks delivery) and connected them to the GRBL shield. The voltage ratings are not very accurate for this board, you will find ratings from 12V to 32V. Since I already have a 36V power supply, I tried to adapt it.
Result: Two stepper drives work fine, one cannot handle the higher voltage and the other only turns in one direction (cannot change direction).
So, again in search of a good driver ...
TB6600 is my final decision. It is completely covered with an aluminum cooling cover and is easy to set up. Now my steppers work on the X and Y axes with 2.2A and on the Z axis with 2.7A. I could go up to 3A, but since I have a closed box to protect the circuits from aluminum dust, I decided to use 2.2A, which is enough for my needs and generates almost no heat. Also, I don't want the steppers to destroy the car if they make a mistake when I give them too much power.
I thought for a long time about a solution to protect the stepper power supply and frequency converter from small aluminum parts. There are many solutions where the transducer is mounted very high or at a sufficient distance from the milling machine. The main problem is that these devices generate a lot of heat and need active cooling. My final decision is my girlfriend's beautiful pantyhose. I cut them into 30 cm pieces and used them as a protective hose, which is very simple and provides good airflow.
Step 4: Spindle
Choosing the right spindle requires a lot of research. I first thought about using a stock Kress1050 spindle, but since it only has 1050 watts at 21000 rpm, I can't expect much power at lower speeds.
For my requirements for dry milling aluminum and possibly some steel parts, I need 6000-12000 RPM power.
That's why I finally chose a 3kW variable frequency drive from China (together with a converter) for 25 thousand rubles.
The quality of the spindle is very good. It is quite powerful and easy to set up. I underestimated the weight at 9kg, but fortunately my frame is strong enough and there is no problem with a heavy spindle. (High weight is the reason for the 2.7A Z-axis drive)
Step 5: Job Completed
Ready. The machine works very well, I had a few problems with the stepper drivers, but overall I'm really happy with the result. I spent about 120 thousand rubles and I have a car that exactly suits my needs.
The first milling project was a negative shape in POM (Parallax occlusion mapping). The machine did a great job!
Step 6: Finishing for aluminum milling
Already in POM, I saw that the torque on the Y-bearing is a little high and the machine bends with high forces around the Y axis. That's why I decided to buy a second rail and upgrade the portal accordingly.
After that, there is almost no backlash due to the force on the spindle. An excellent upgrade and, of course, worth the money (10 thousand rubles).
Now I'm ready for aluminum. With AlMg4.5Mn I got very good results without any cooling.
Step 7: Conclusion
Building your own CNC machine is not really rocket science. I have relatively poor working conditions and equipment, but with a good work plan all I need is a few bits, a screwdriver, clamps and a regular drill press. One month in CAD and purchase plan, and four months of assembly to complete installation. The creation of the second machine would have gone much faster, but without any prior knowledge in this area, I had to learn a lot about mechanics and electronics during this time.
Step 8: Details
Here you can find all the main parts of the machine. I would recommend AlMg4.5Mn alloys for all aluminum plates.
Electrical:
I bought all electrical parts on ebay.
- Arduino + GRBL-Shield: ~ 1500 rub.
- Stepper driver: 1000 rub.\pcs
- Power supply: 3000 rubles.
- Stepper motors: ~ 1500 rubles \ pcs
- Milling spindle + inverter: 25 thousand rubles.
Mechanical:
- Linear bearings: link
- Linear rails: link
- Ball circulation spindles: link
- 2x1052mm
- 1x600mm
- 1x250mm
- Fixed spindle bearings + stepper holder: link
- Floating bearing: link
- Spindle-step connections: I ordered Chinese couplings for 180 rubles / piece
- Bottom profiles: link
- X-profiles for rails: link
- Y-profiles for installing X-axis stepper/spindle: link
Portal:
- Profile on linear bearing X: link
- Rear panel / Mounting plate: 5 mm aluminum plate 600×200.
- Y-profiles: 2x link
- Z-profile: link
- Z-mounting plate: 5mm 250×160 Aluminum plate
- Z-sliding plate for spindle mounting: 5mm 200×160 Aluminum plate
Step 9: Software
After using CAD, then CAM and finally G-Code Sender I am very disappointed. After a long search for good software, I settled on Estlcam, which is very convenient, powerful and very affordable (3 thousand rubles).
It completely overwrites the Arduino and controls stepper motors on its own. There are many good documented features. The trial version provides the full functionality of the software, just adding a wait time.
For example, edge search. You just need to connect the wire to the Arduino A5 pin and to the workpiece (if not metal, then use aluminum foil to cover it temporarily). With machine control, you can now press the milling tool against the work surface. As soon as the circuit closes, the machine stops and sets the axle to zero. Very useful! (usually grounding is not required because the spindle must be grounded)
Step 10: Improve
Until now, the Y and Z axes had temporary plastic brackets to transmit the forces of the spindle nuts and moved the milling spindle accordingly.
The plastic braces were hard plastic, but I don't trust them too much. Imagine that the Z-axis bracket will brake, the milling spindle will simply fall (obviously in the process of milling).
That is why I have now made these brackets from aluminum alloy (AlMgSi). The result is attached in the picture. They are now much stronger than the plastic version I made before without a router.
Step 11: Machine in operation
Now, with a little CNC practice, a do-it-yourself woodworking machine already gives very good results (for a hobby). These pictures show an AlMg4.5Mn nozzle. I had to mill it from both sides. In the last photo, what happened without polishing or sandpaper.
I used a 6mm VHM cutter with 3 blades. I found that 4-6mm tools give very good results on this machine.