We wash water-based paint from different fabrics - all methods. How to wash water-based paint: step-by-step instructions for different cases How to flush the cooling system from oil emulsion
Continuing the theme of flushing the engine and its systems, it should be noted that during operation it is often necessary to flush. This flushing of the oil system may be required for a variety of reasons, from switching to a different type of engine oil to emergency malfunctions.
As a rule, the reason for the immediate flushing of the lubrication system is a hit, as a result of which. Even taking into account the fact that motor oil itself has a whole package of not only protective, but also detergent and dispersant components, these properties may not be enough.
In other words, after filling, fresh oil is simply not able to qualitatively wash the surfaces of parts and channels in the engine from various deposits, sediment and other by-products that form after mixing with the coolant.
Next, we will talk about what to do after antifreeze has been detected in the engine lubrication system, how to flush the engine after eliminating the root cause of the malfunction, and how to flush the engine from the emulsion or its residue.
Read in this article
Flushing the engine oil system: when needed
So, antifreeze or antifreeze can enter the lubrication system for various reasons, but damage is most often the culprit. Rarely formed. In any case, the result of mixing oil and coolant is an emulsion.
This phenomenon is very dangerous for the motor, since the lubricant loses its properties, wear increases significantly, and other elements and assemblies in. Moreover, water and ethylene glycol, mixed in certain proportions and, in fact, representing coolant, after getting into the oil, cause various contaminants to coagulate.
Simply put, the dirt in the lubrication system literally sticks together. Additives in oil and antifreeze after mixing react and quickly decompose, the oil immediately oxidizes, etc. Large "lumps" consisting of deposits can even clog the oil receiver filter screen, as a result it begins.
At the same time, it is important to take into account that, for example, after replacing the cylinder head gasket, it will not be possible to completely drain the “working out” from the motor. This means that filling in a new portion of fresh lubricant, the lubricant will also mix with the remnants of the emulsion, unwanted deposits will still form in the oil channels and on the internal surfaces of the engine.
If the engine is not additionally flushed, a similar situation will be repeated for at least another 2-3 replacements. We also note that similar recommendations also apply when, for some reason, the oil change interval was violated (for example, the lubricant was replaced not after 10 thousand km, but after 15 thousand). Also, flushing is recommended, if necessary, add third-party oil when necessary, etc.
At the same time, it may be necessary to flush the engine if the owner has purchased a used used car, and the service history of a particular car is unknown or questionable. It often happens that after an oil change on such a machine, (literally after 50-100 km. Run).
Finally, it is also worth highlighting the possible filling of low-grade oil into the engine. Among motor oils, unfortunately,. Naturally, after discovering this fact, it is necessary to remove the surrogate from the internal combustion engine, then the engine must be flushed without fail.
A counterfeit product is usually indicated by a strong and rapid blackening of the lubricant, an unpleasant pungent odor, the appearance of black deposits under the valve covers, turbidity of the oil, a significant change in its viscosity for no apparent reason, an increase in lubricant consumption, etc.
How to flush the engine from emulsion, dirt and deposits
It is quite obvious that if you need to wash the engine from the inside, then you need a good flush for the engine. A large number of various compositions are on sale.
In practice, all products can be divided into two groups:
- additives in mining;
At the same time, choosing the best engine flushing agent is not so simple. First of all, you need to start from a specific situation. If you just need to flush the lubrication system before changing the oil, and we are not talking about removing emulsion residues or a counterfeit product, then the usual “five minutes” may be quite enough.
The only thing is that this method should be used with caution on older motors. The fact is that on long runs the unit will definitely be contaminated, while the “five-minutes” are very aggressive and separate the accumulated deposits in the sump, but do not dissolve them. Such deposits may well clog the oil receiver with all the ensuing consequences.
It should also be remembered that quick flushes into oil can also have a negative effect on gaskets, oil seals and other seals. Cases have been noted when, after applying oil flushes, the engine began to leak.
- In case of more serious contamination, it is better to use ready-made flushing oils that are filled into the engine in full instead of the base oil. Depending on the type of such a flushing composition, the unit must either work only at idle, or short-term driving is allowed with minimal loads on the internal combustion engine.
Such washing is less aggressive to rubber seals compared to the "five-minute" ones, and also washes dirt and deposits more thoroughly. We also note that flushing oils are synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral, and are also universal. In other words, they can be used both in gasoline and.
At the same time, the risk of “clogging” the channels and filters (for example, in the oil receiver mesh) with muddy dirt is still present, but it is not so high compared to a quick flush into engine oil.
First of all, before filling in a new lubricant, it is important to remove the old oil from the engine in a quality manner. In other words, you need to try to merge as much as possible.
Also, after flushing the engine, if possible, you should also get rid of the maximum amount of flushing oil so that the residues are mixed in a minimum amount with fresh grease.
To do this, it is better to travel a little by car, warming up the engine in motion. Only after that the car is installed horizontally on a flat area, then the drain plug is unscrewed. By the way, the grease should drain by gravity. It is not recommended to use other methods of draining and pumping out the oil (for example, vacuum suction through the oil filler neck, etc.).
We also note that even before the start of flushing, regardless of the flushing agent, it is necessary. As part of the flush, you can put the simplest and cheapest.
If this is not done, the flushing composition will dissolve the dirt in the old filter, and then sour deposits from other areas will be added to this. As a result, the throughput of the filter will be greatly reduced, the bypass valve will open and contaminants can get back into the engine.
Having decided on what you can flush the engine with when changing the oil, it is important to understand that before using flushing oil or "five minutes" you need to carefully study the instructions. It is strongly recommended to follow all instructions of the manufacturer of a particular composition.
Also, flushing should not be overdone in the engine, load the engine when driving on flushing oil, accelerate at idle or use quick flushes into oil, etc. Also, after applying flushing fluids and pouring fresh oil, it is better to reduce the interval for its subsequent replacement by 30-50%.
This approach eliminates the possibility of increased wear of the internal combustion engine as a result of the loss of useful properties of the new oil after contact with the remnants of the previously used flush.
Read also
How to flush the engine yourself with diesel fuel or kerosene before changing the engine oil. Advantages and disadvantages of cleaning, features of washing the engine with diesel fuel.
Water-based paint is a unique building material. With its help, you can quickly update the old interior or complete a full-scale renovation in the apartment. Such material is relatively inexpensive and does not harm the health of home craftsmen and professional builders. But often after painting there are stains, streaks and stains that need to be removed somehow. How to wash water-based paint from different surfaces? Let's figure it out.
Most often, water-based paint based on PVA is used for painting interiors. It is an emulsion of fine particles of polymers, coloring pigments and water. Such paint has low resistance to moisture and is easily removed with water and soapy water.
Any fresh spots, from the time of which no more than a few hours have passed, are easily washed off with plain warm water. It is enough to do a few manipulations, and the floor will be clean:
- Wipe the soiled floor with a cloth dampened with water and leave for 15-20 minutes.
- Scrub the floor with a rag, applying some pressure where the stains have dried the most.
- Wipe the surface dry with another cloth.
- In places where the paint has not departed, repeat the procedure.
- Usually, if the cleaning of the soiled floor occurs on the day of painting, this is enough.
Remove with soapy water
Old stains will come off easier if you add a small amount of detergent to warm water:
- washing powder;
- laundry soap;
- liquid dishwashing detergent;
- shower gel;
- bath foam.
In general, everything that is at hand and can create a soapy solution will do. The principle of operation is similar to the first option, only in this case, instead of pure water, soap will act on the stains, which will accelerate the soaking of paint stains. In addition, you can increase the exposure time - leave the soap solution on the floor for 30-40 minutes.
ADVICE! If it is difficult to wipe off the dried stains of the water-based emulsion with a rag, you can use a dishwashing sponge. Its hard side is great for cleaning floors, whether it's linoleum, laminate or tile.
If you need to clean the parquet, then the soaking time for paint stains will have to be reduced to 2-3 minutes, otherwise the coating may suffer from prolonged contact with water. Therefore, you need to act in several passes, carefully wiping the treated areas.
Removing paint from clothes
It is no secret that construction work must be carried out in special clothes that you do not mind getting dirty. But it also needs to be erased. How to wash water-based paint from a work suit? Again, water and washing powder will help. If the stains are fresh, it is enough to soak the clothes in warm water with detergent for half an hour and wash in any convenient way - by hand or in a washing machine.
Old spots will also go away, but you have to tinker:
- Soak clothes in warm water with detergent added.
- Rinse and check the condition of the fabric - if the stains do not go away, pour liquid dishwashing detergent on them and leave to act for 1 hour.
- After an hour, wipe the stains from the fabric with your hands or with an old toothbrush - its villi perfectly remove paint particles stuck between the fibers of the fabric.
- Wash and rinse things.
If you wash your work clothes on the day of painting, you will not have to make much effort.
We clean the ceiling painted with water emulsion
When it becomes necessary to paint the ceiling, you need to remove a layer of old paint. How to do it? There is nothing easier:
- Moisten the surface of the ceiling evenly with clean warm water using a paint roller, cloth or sponge.
- Leave the paint to soak for 20-30 minutes.
- When the paint swells and moves away from the base, remove the old layer with a spatula or scraper.
ADVICE! It is advisable not to wet the entire ceiling to be cleaned with water at once, but to break it into segments and process them one by one. In order not to stain the floor and not to wash it also, you need to cover the room with old newspapers or plastic wrap.
It is not necessary to repaint the ceiling to give it a clean and attractive appearance. Just washing it is enough. It would seem, how to wash the ceiling, painted with water-based paint? After all, if you use water, the paint will swell and move away from the surface? This will not happen if you act quickly and carefully:
- Walk along the ceiling with a dry cloth or a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment to remove dust, cobwebs and dirt.
- Moisten the surface of the ceiling in any convenient way - with a paint roller, a rag on a mop, a spray gun.
- Gently wipe the ceiling with a soft brush or cloth.
After such simple manipulations, the ceiling, painted with water-based paint, will sparkle like new.
Conclusion
In order not to have to make efforts and wipe off stains of water-based paint, it is enough to take the furniture out of the room before starting the repair, and cover the floor with auxiliary material. And remember - all dirt is easily removed on the day of repair.
Water-based paints are a high-quality material that is used in interior decoration. It is odorless, absolutely harmless, dries quickly. Despite the fact that the basis of the mixture is water, the material is very resistant to moisture. Therefore, the question arises, how to remove water-based paint from the walls?
Is it worth it to remove the old coating
If there are no areas of delamination or swelling on the surface in question, then the water-based paint can not be removed. Removal is necessary in the following cases:
- the presence of exfoliated areas;
- air getting under the paint;
- applying a lighter coating (no matter how many layers, the dark tone will show through and the desired shade will not work);
- if the finishing material used is not compatible with water-based paint.
Before removing a layer, you need to determine what type of mixture it is: for wood, concrete or glass. Based on this, choose the appropriate withdrawal method.
To remove, you will need the following materials:
- film (polyethylene) and waste paper;
- container with water;
- rags;
- metal spatulas;
- , for wetting walls;
- brush with metal teeth;
- sandpaper;
- acetone;
- building solvent;
- protective clothing: goggles, respirator, gloves, head covering;
- a small ladder or stepladder.
Before starting work, be sure to prepare the room: cover furniture and decor items with prepared film and waste paper.
Water-based paint can be removed by washing with water, mechanically cleaning the walls, using solvents, using heat treatment.
How to wash off the coating
Water-based paint is advised to be washed off with a soapy solution, which is prepared by dissolving remnants or a little washing powder in warm water. Then it is applied with a roller or sponge on the wall and left for a while to absorb. When the paint layer is sufficiently soaked, it is washed off with a rag, after which the wall is wiped dry. If at the end of the work there are traces of soap on the wall, you need to repeat the procedure again.
It is advised to wet the walls with water in small parts so that it does not have time to dry while you are doing the previous section.
mechanical method
The paint can be removed with a brush or with a grinder.
First method
Before cleaning, the walls are moistened with water using a roller and left to soak for 15 minutes. After that, a spatula cleans off the paint layer, working in one direction. Places where the coating is not removed are treated with a brush with metal teeth.
This method is suitable only for surfaces resistant to mechanical damage.
Second method
The layer is removed very effectively with a grinder. If this is not available, then you can use a drill with a nozzle to remove paint. It comes in the form of a metal crown or a round brush with iron bristles. They can be purchased at a specialized store or in the market.
The use of a grinder is advised for cleaning walls made of wood, less often concrete.
Sequencing:
- Connect the instrument to the network.
- Clear walls. You need to move sequentially, processing in small areas.
- The surface must be wiped with a damp cloth from dust.
- At the end of the work, the room must be vacuumed, all traces of paint must be removed.
- Perform wet cleaning and ventilate the room.
Be sure to wear a respirator and goggles because the air will be very dusty.
Solvent use
A large layer of coating or dried old ones can be washed off with products with a high percentage of solvent. Environmentally friendly solvents include formic acid and isopropyl alcohol. The amount of the required product can be calculated based on the average consumption of 1 liter per 5 m². Solvents on a more toxic basis are also commercially available. If you prefer such products, then during use, observe the necessary safety measures.
Action algorithm:
- Apply with a brush to the surface.
- Leave for 20 minutes, depending on the recommendations of the instructions.
- Remove paint from the walls with a spatula.
- Rinse off the surface to be treated with water or other agent recommended by the manufacturer.
You can wash off the paint with such a solvent from any surface. The main thing is to choose the right tool.
Thermal removal method
This method can only be used if there is a building hair dryer. First, small sections of the walls should be heated until the coating is swollen. Then remove the paint with a spatula. Movements should be progressive and directed in one direction.
Adhering paint must be removed with another spatula. If traces remain on the surface, they must be cleaned with a brush with metal teeth or sandpaper. Upon completion of the work, the room is vacuumed and wet cleaned.
2 videos on cleaning walls from water-based paint
We clean the walls from water emulsion in pictures (30 photos)
Continuing the theme of flushing the engine and its systems, it should be noted that during operation it often becomes necessary to flush the lubrication system. This flushing of the oil system may be required for a variety of reasons, from switching to a different type of engine oil to emergency malfunctions.
As a rule, the reason for the immediate flushing of the lubrication system is the ingress of antifreeze or antifreeze into the oil, as a result of which an emulsion appears in the engine. Even taking into account the fact that motor oil itself has a whole package of not only protective, but also detergent and dispersant components, these properties may not be enough.
In other words, after filling, fresh oil is simply not able to qualitatively wash the surfaces of parts and channels in the engine from various deposits, sediment and other by-products that form after mixing with the coolant.
Next, we will talk about what to do after antifreeze has been detected in the engine lubrication system, how to flush the engine after eliminating the root cause of the malfunction, and how to flush the engine from the emulsion or its residue.
Flushing the engine oil system: when needed
So, antifreeze or antifreeze can enter the lubrication system for various reasons, but the most common culprit is damage to the cylinder head gasket. Less commonly, cracks form in the block or head. In any case, the result of mixing oil and coolant is an emulsion.
This phenomenon is very dangerous for the motor, since the lubricant loses its properties, the wear of the CPG, KShM, timing and other elements and components in the internal combustion engine increases significantly. Moreover, water and ethylene glycol, mixed in certain proportions and, in fact, representing coolant, after getting into the oil, cause various contaminants to coagulate.
Simply put, the dirt in the lubrication system literally sticks together. Additives in oil and antifreeze after mixing react and quickly decompose, the oil immediately oxidizes, etc. Large “lumps”, consisting of deposits, can even clog the oil receiver filter, as a result, oil starvation of the engine begins.
At the same time, it is important to take into account that, for example, after replacing the cylinder head gasket, it will not be possible to completely drain the “working out” from the motor. This means that filling in a new portion of fresh lubricant, the lubricant will also mix with the remnants of the emulsion, unwanted deposits will still form in the oil channels and on the internal surfaces of the engine.
If the engine is not additionally flushed, a similar situation will be repeated for at least another 2-3 replacements. We also note that similar recommendations also apply when, for some reason, the oil change interval was violated (for example, the lubricant was replaced not after 10 thousand km, but after 15 thousand). Also, flushing is recommended, if necessary, adding third-party oil, when it was necessary to mix mineral oil and synthetics, etc.
At the same time, it may be necessary to flush the engine if the owner has purchased a used used car, and the service history of a particular car is unknown or questionable. It often happens that after changing the oil on such a machine, fresh grease turns black very quickly (literally after 50-100 km of run).
Finally, it is also worth highlighting the possible filling of low-grade oil into the engine. Among motor oils, unfortunately, fakes are often found. Naturally, after discovering this fact, it is necessary to remove the surrogate from the internal combustion engine, then the engine must be flushed without fail.
A counterfeit product is usually indicated by a strong and rapid blackening of the lubricant, an unpleasant pungent odor, black deposits under the valve covers, cloudiness of the oil, a significant change in its viscosity for no apparent reason, an increase in lubricant consumption, engine smoke, etc.
How to flush the engine from emulsion, dirt and deposits
It is quite obvious that if you need to wash the engine from the inside, then you need a good flush for the engine. A large number of various compositions are on sale.
In practice, all products can be divided into two groups:
- additives in mining;
- washing oils;
At the same time, choosing the best engine flushing agent is not so simple. First of all, you need to start from a specific situation. If you just need to flush the lubrication system before changing the oil, and we are not talking about removing emulsion residues or a counterfeit product, then the usual “five minutes” may be quite enough.
The only thing is that this method should be used with caution on older motors. The fact is that on long runs the unit will definitely be contaminated, while the “five-minutes” are very aggressive and separate the accumulated deposits in the sump, but do not dissolve them. Such deposits may well clog the oil receiver with all the ensuing consequences.
It should also be remembered that quick flushes into oil can also have a negative effect on gaskets, oil seals and other seals. Cases have been noted when, after applying oil flushes, the engine began to leak.
- In case of more serious contamination, it is better to use ready-made flushing oils that are filled into the engine in full instead of the base oil. Depending on the type of such a flushing composition, the unit must either work only at idle, or short-term driving is allowed with minimal loads on the internal combustion engine.
Such washing is less aggressive to rubber seals compared to the "five-minute" ones, and also washes dirt and deposits more thoroughly. We also note that flushing oils are synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral, and are also universal. In other words, they can be used in both gasoline and diesel internal combustion engines.
In practice, this solution can be considered optimal in order to flush the engine from the emulsion after antifreeze or antifreeze enters the lubrication system. Flushing oils are also better suited for cleaning contaminated ICEs with high mileage.
At the same time, the risk of “clogging” the channels and filters (for example, in hydraulic compensators, the oil receiver mesh) with muddy dirt is still present, but it is not so high compared to a quick flush into engine oil.
Good afternoon. Today we will talk about how to flush the engine cooling system from oil? This is especially true for vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions and oil-to-salt heat exchangers, since the risk of oil getting into them is much higher. The article discusses working flushing methods, and popular misconceptions.
This article is based on my own experience! All tips in the article are tested in practice!
The main problem when oil enters the coolant is the formation of an emulsion.
It looks like this:
The main difficulty with the emulsion is that it clogs all the hoses, pipes, and the engine starts to overheat. Those. it flows very slowly and does not remove heat, and it is quite difficult to wash it.
Non-working ways to flush the cooling system from oil (popular misconceptions).
Flushing the cooling system with plenty of running water.
We brought the radiator to the garden and flushed it with reverse flow, water from the well. It did nothing, it drives out large drops of oil with water, but the emulsion on the walls is not washed off (cold water cannot soften it). It takes more than one ton of very hot water to completely flush the cooling system from the emulsion.
Hot water is EXPENSIVE, not everyone has access to unlimited free hot water, so we write to non-working methods.
Flushing the cooling system with whey.
I read this method on the Internet and decided to check it out.
The washing procedure is as follows - we drain all the liquid from the cooling system and replace it with whey, in the warm season we ride for 2-3 days, drain the whey, rinse 2-3 times with cold water and fill in antifreeze.
Whey is freely sold in dairy departments.
We tested this method after flushing the cooling system with water more than 10 times, and flushing the radiator with reverse flow.
We also write the method as non-working! No, the serum merged black and it washed out some dirt, but it washes the emulsion no better than water!
Partially working methods for flushing the cooling system.
Flushing the cooling system with FAIRY dishwasher.
The flushing method is as follows - fill in the detergent (about a glass of 10 liters), warm up the engine to operating temperature and drain all the liquid from the system.
Repeat if necessary.
At the end of flushing, we flush the cooling system 2-3 times with water, drain everything and fill in antifreeze.
Partially working method The detergent does partially remove the oil emulsion, but it falls off in rather large pieces that do not pass through the radiator cells, thermostat and thin cooling system hoses.
I summarize - you can rinse, but the product is not effective enough, it breaks down the emulsion, but it does it in large pieces that do not pass through the radiators.
Flushing the cooling system with automatic powder.
The method is somewhat better than rinsing with a dishwasher (less foam), but fundamentally no different.
The only method of flushing the cooling system that worked was flushing the cooling system with SOIL FUEL (DT).
Desperate to wash the engine of the emulsion, I ventured to flush the cooling system with diesel fuel.
The methodology is as follows:
- Drain all fluid from the bleed system
- We remove the thermostat (otherwise there is a possibility that the large circle will not open and the radiator will remain clogged)
- Fill the entire cooling system with diesel fuel (at a minimum).
- We warm up the car to operating temperature (we stand still, do not drive, warming up without a thermostat will take about 20 minutes)
- We merge everything from the cooling system (I merged black diesel fuel)
- Flush the system with water 2 times
- Pour antifreeze
Many are afraid to do this, fearing the ignition of diesel fuel - nothing will happen to it, do not forget to remove the thermostat, otherwise it will not work to flush the radiator.
Some are afraid for the safety of the nozzles, the nozzles can swell and deteriorate from fatty diesel fuel - this is also nonsense! From an oil emulsion, they will swell much faster.
Methods that have not been tested.
Acid wash.
Here I include washing with carbonic acid (carbonated water), acetic acid, citric acid, it is obvious that these acids will not take an oil emulsion. But it is quite possible to flush the cooling system from scale and dirt.
Washing with soda.
Soda will also not remove the oil emulsion, but aluminum will thank you for it! When flushing the cooling system with soda, it is diluted in a proportion of 100 g / liter.