Nice rustic toilet. Building a country toilet: projects, drawings, dimensions

The design of a country toilet - choose wisely

The most important criterion for choosing the type of toilet for a summer residence is the level of groundwater on the site. With a deep standing groundwater (deeper than 2.5-3.5 m), especially if the water does not rise above two meters from the surface of the earth even in heavy rains, any of the above types of toilet is possible. With a high standing of groundwater, this is exactly what we usually have in areas of the middle lane - the water is close to the surface, a classic toilet with a cesspool is unacceptable.

When standing groundwater above 2.5 m, the preferred option is powder closet or backlash closet, as well as a bio- or chemical toilet. Since these structures have a sealed cesspool, the waste does not enter the groundwater and is safe in an epidemiological sense. Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

Construction of a toilet in the country: by law and harmony by neighbors

There are clear standards for the placement of a country street toilet. This is especially important for those structures that involve the contact of sewage with soil and groundwater. According to sanitary requirements, any water source (well, well, river, lake, stream, etc.) must be more than 25 m.

The door to the toilet should not be located on the side of the neighbors.

On a note

When building a toilet, it is better to take into account the directions of the winds that are most frequent in your participation: unpleasant odors should not bother the neighbors.

When your summer cottage is located slightly on a slope, the toilet should be below the source of clean water - so the waste does not fall into the water.

As for the country house and the buildings of the neighbors

• The toilet must be at least 12 m away from residential buildings, cellars, basements.
• From the structure of the bath, sauna, shower - at least 8 m.
• From enclosures for keeping animals, poultry houses, etc. - at least 4 m.
• From trees and shrubs - at least a meter; at the same distance - from the fence enclosing your summer cottage.

Do-it-yourself toilet - do-it-yourself powder closet

Building a classic "rustic" toilet is not at all difficult and even a novice builder can do it. Therefore, we will focus on the device of a more modern design - a powder closet.

Advantages of powder closet:

• This design does not provide for a cesspool, and this simplifies its construction. No need to dig a ditch.
• Powder closet can be erected next to residential buildings.
• Groundwater is not polluted.

The beginning of any construction is a drawing, since all parts must have accurately calculated dimensions. They should be such that the toilet is easy to use. So, the minimum width of the building should be at least 1.5 m, the depth - at least a meter, the height - 2.2 m. Dimensions can be large, but it is not advisable to make them smaller. Now it's time to decide on the building material. Most often country toilets are made of wood. But you can build a brick toilet, sheathe the walls with a metal profile or slate.

Foundation: laying the foundation of the toilet

The toilet is a light building that does not require a solid solid foundation. Often, a strip foundation is poured under the country toilet - the base is poured only along the perimeter of the walls. When creating a strip foundation for any building, a trench is dug, it is taken out above the zero mark and poured with a cement solution. The role of waterproofing is performed by roofing material. The foundation is filled with crushed stone, rubble stone, gravel, broken bricks. Coarse-grained sand and gravel are poured into the trench in layers, each layer should be compacted and poured with water. At ground level, the foundation is poured with cement mortar. The plinth is made of brick and insulated with a layer of roofing material. From the outside of the foundation it is necessary to make a blind area.

But it is much easier to make the simplest foundation for a wooden toilet under a toilet: either bury the supports (pillars - concrete, from timber or logs), or make a foundation from concrete blocks or bricks laid out around the perimeter of the structure.

Operating procedure

1. The first stage is the marking of the site for future construction. Accurately mark the corners of the future building.
2. As a foundation, we dig in supports. We need four asbestos-cement pipes, their diameter is about 150 mm. Outside, they should be coated with bituminous mastic.
3. Some types of soils do not have the necessary characteristics for construction: strength, slight compressibility, etc. Peat soils usually compress under load, clay soils swell, and forest-like soils in spring and autumn can settle under the weight of the building. Before starting construction, if you are building a brick toilet, such soils require a series of drainage measures or replacement of soil unsuitable for development. To check, it is enough to dig a hole in the place where the building will stand, with a depth of 0.5 to 1.5 m, and see the composition of the soil. The best option for construction is if your soil is based on fine-grained compacted sand.
4. In the corners of the future building, 4 deep wells (about 70 cm) should be dug. At this depth, pipes are buried in the ground. Although, in general, the depth to which pipes must be buried will depend on the structure of the soil. On some soils, it may be necessary to deepen the pipes by 90-100 cm.
5. Further, the pipes are poured with concrete mortar to a third of the height. Concrete is compacted by removing air bubbles. Support poles are inserted inside the pipes, most often wooden ones, which are fixed with concrete mortar.
6. The poles are fixed so that they protrude to a height of 2.3 m from the ground. The location of the pillars should be even relative to the corners.

The easiest version of the foundation of the toilet

For a light wooden building, it is enough to simply install concrete blocks or bricks. A frame will be placed on them. Such a “foundation” is done as follows: the top layer of soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm and compacted tightly. A layer of sand is covered at the bottom of the trench, and concrete blocks or bricks are placed on top.

Building a toilet frame

The frame of the country toilet is made of wooden beams with a section of 50 x 50 mm or 80 * 80 mm. Sometimes they take a thicker beam (100 * 100 mm) and even thicker, but this is not advisable. Still need metal corners. The frame is 4 bearing supports installed vertically. We also need a strapping of the roof of our building.

Roof trim: horizontal bars protrude from the body to a distance of about 40 cm. A visor is obtained in front, and a ledge for rainwater drainage is obtained in the back.

We sit well

The correct height of the toilet seat is the key to ease of use of the toilet. A seat that is too high will be uncomfortable for children and short people, too low will cause inconvenience to tall family members. It should be taken into account at what level the floor in the toilet will be located -40 cm upwards is deposited from this height. And keep in mind that there will also be a sheathing on top of the strapping (about 20 mm wide).

Consideration

• Screed at the level of the toilet seat, which will appear later. The bars of this strapping are installed in a spacer to the vertical supports of the frame. The height of the toilet seat to the floor of the toilet should be 40-45 cm.
• For the strength of the frame, diagonal braces are also made on the back and side walls. The frame for fastening the door consists of 2 vertical supports about 1.9-2 m high and a horizontal bar at this height.

On a note

Often, slate or corrugated sheets are used to build a country toilet. It is easier to work with them, but in such a toilet it will be uncomfortable. Wooden walls allow air to pass through it, providing natural ventilation.

Toilet frame upholstery

The walls of the country toilet are sheathed with wooden boards, the thickness of which should be from 20 to 25 mm. They are tightly fitted and nailed to the frame supports. It is better to place the boards vertically, with the top of the back wall and side wall sheathing boards neatly cut off taking into account the slope of the roof (since in this design the roof will slope towards the back wall). In the back wall of the powder closet, a door is usually made through which a container with waste is taken out. The hinged door has a height of 40 to 45 cm (it is made to the height of the toilet seat).

We cut the roof of the toilet with our own hands

The roof of such a structure is usually covered with either sheets of corrugated board, or slate, or metal tiles. The wooden roof is covered with roofing material or other waterproofing material.

The roof of the toilet is made so that it has a hole for the ventilation pipe. The pipe must be sealed.

Making a toilet door

They make a door out of wood and hang it on two or three hinges, depending on how heavy the door is. Also, the door is equipped with a latch, hook or latch outside and inside. A small window is usually made above the door so that light enters it. Zealous owners usually glass the window.

If you make the size of the toilet house large enough, you can even hang a washbasin in it.

Toilet seat: the most important thing

What to make a seat and a toilet seat in a powder toilet? It can be boards, lining, moisture resistant plywood. It is best to dwell on the wooden sheathing of the toilet seat frame, the boards must be painted, a hole cut out and an appropriate container with a capacity of 20-40 liters should be installed under the toilet seat. It is better to make the lid of the toilet seat reclining, fixing it on hinges. In addition, you should find a place in the toilet for a container of peat (you can hang it on the wall) and a bucket for used toilet paper.

Toilet with barrel

From wind and rain

The roof is built after the walls are completely sheathed. Fix it along the line of the upper slope, checking the compliance of the angles of the slope on adjacent surfaces. He must

Since the building is still loosely fixed at the stage of roof construction, then when working at height, just a ladder is not enough, additional insurance is needed. For example, using a reinforced ladder.

be 30 degrees. Having installed the roof, sew up the back wall. Zealous owners also hem overhangs.

The roof in this design is covered with a board. The thickness of the board is at least 20 mm. You can fasten the roof sheathing boards to the rafters with ordinary nails - there will be no special bearing load on a small roof area.

The roof is covered with roofing material - use ondulin, metal tiles or roofing material.

It is undesirable to cover the toilet roof with slate - such a coating greatly increases the wind load on the building.

Final check

An important stage of work is the final check. The degree of tightening of all screws, the verticality of the walls and the horizontality of the floor are checked.

• If there are violations, you can correct the structure by adding gravel under the foundation, installing spacers, etc.
• The base of the toilet should be carefully fixed; for this purpose, another fastener is placed at the bottom of the foundation. The support columns on the sides are concreted, finally securing the structure.
• Be sure to check your work for the absence of through breakdowns inside, on the back of the roof and walls. Such sharp tips of nails and screws can cause serious injury to people.

And finally, the interior decoration of our building. It begins, of course, with cutting a hole. First of all, a niche is cut out in the floor of the toilet along the perimeter of the buried barrel (hand, circular saw, electric jigsaw, etc.). The upper part of the niche is hemmed with a 25 mm board. The niche should be exactly in the center, 200-250 mm from the rear wall of the toilet, and its dimensions should be at least 450 x 450 mm.

Summer residents decorate the "house" at their discretion. The main thing is not to overload it with decorative details, because the structure is rather fragile. The easiest option is to sheathe the perimeter of the front side with a decorative trim.

Reliable protection

Impregnation on wood is applied after completion of the main construction work. The choice of impregnation today is very large.

• The tree should be impregnated with an antiseptic, this will protect the wooden parts from mold, fungi, and organic formations. After all, the toilet is an unheated room.
• All wooden parts must be protected from decay. In conditions of high humidity, rotting can destroy the structure in just two to three years.
• The refractory coating is very important. A cigarette thrown carelessly in the toilet can cause a fire in this wooden structure.
• And one more function of impregnation and coloring of the toilet is decorative.

Hanging the toilet door

The door can be made independently or you can use the existing one for the second time. In any case, she also needs to apply protective impregnations. The door is mounted on hinges that are pre-lubricated with any solid lubricant (solid oil, for example), which will protect metal parts from rust.

Toilet lighting

Before finishing the interior decoration of our house, you should take care of the lighting. When carrying out electrical work, it must be taken into account that the toilet is a building with high humidity. Based on this, we comply with the following rules:

If there are children in the family

Let's say we use LED lamps with a voltage of 12 or 36 Volts. A voltage converter is installed at the beginning of the power supply line, and the switch will be built into the design of the luminaire. If there are children in the family, then such a safe lamp can be installed at a low height.

• From the power line support to the toilet should not be more than five meters.
• The power cable is brought out by means of a mast with a height of at least 250 cm; while the mast must be securely fastened to the rear wall of the toilet.
• A ground connection is required.
• Inside the building, the cable wiring is carried out in an open way, its cross section must be at least 0.75 square meters. mm.
• The luminaire power should not exceed 40 watts. It is safest to use energy-saving lamps. The design of the luminaire itself should be designed for use in rooms with high humidity.
• The light switch must not be located inside the toilet. Install it on a special shield at the beginning of the power supply line. This can be a switchboard, or a switch can be installed inside a permanent building.

We mount the seat

First of all, we need to make a so-called podium. You will need bars 30 * 60 mm in size, as well as self-tapping screws at least 70 mm long, which will connect these bars into the podium structure.

The niche opposite the cesspool should remain free - this will allow you to clean the barrel in a timely manner, and such a toilet will last much longer.

The created structure is sheathed with sheet material, which must be durable (plywood, chipboard, OSB boards). The front wall is closed with a rectangle of the desired size. Fix it with self-tapping screws.

The upper part of the podium - mark a strip of sheet material that will go around the vertical racks of the wall frame. A rectangular part is cut out, and then the grooves are marked, the location and size of which correspond to the racks.

On the upper part we install a toilet seat, which is closed with a lid.

For aesthetics, so that the interior of the podium is hidden from view, install a simple device inside - a plastic box without a bottom and a lid.

The interior of the country toilet

If high-quality materials were used for the construction of the toilet, the inside of the toilet can not be painted. It is enough just to pickle the boards with a protective coating.

The floor and podium are painted with weatherproof dyes.

The door of the building and the outer walls are still best protected by painting. Previously, the surfaces are cleaned of old paint, if any, and sanded.

Do-it-yourself backlash closet

How to organize a sewer

You can make a pressure or gravity sewer. It depends on the characteristics of each individual suburban area. With pressure sewerage, waste is fed using special fecal pumps, with gravity sewage, it goes away by gravity.

When installing a gravity sewer, it is very important to keep the slopes correctly. The slope must be the same throughout, and then the length of the sewer pipe can be any.

On a note

Very often they make the slope as large as possible, believing that in this way the waste will flow out faster. This is mistake. If the slope is too steep, the liquid drains faster, solid waste is trapped, and the pipes become clogged. Also, the inflow of air to the surfaces of underfilled pipes leads to corrosion and a decrease in their service life.

A pressure sewer is installed if it is impossible to maintain a sufficient slope angle. This may be when, for example, the way

Drainage slope

For novice builders, the difficulty lies in the fact that the unit of measurement of the slope, adopted in the construction literature, is unusual for them - these are decimal fractions of the form 0.03 or 0.008. This fraction is the ratio of the drop height to the length of the pipe. For example, 3 cm by 1 m, or 0.8 cm but 1 m. The length of the sewer pipe in meters, when multiplied by the slope, will give the total slope height along the entire length.

Polypropylene pipes (they do not deform at high and low temperatures and are easy to install) are assembled starting from the bottom, inserting each subsequent one into the socket of the previous one. In places of turns and at the bottom of risers, special revision pipes are required. The joint of a polypropylene pipe with a cast iron pipe is made using a rubber cuff.

When installing a pressure sewer, the pipes are connected by welding. The diameter of such pipes depends on the requirements of the pump and ranges from 20 to 40 mm.

The outer part of the sewer is placed in a trench. The depth of the trench should be below the freezing level of the soil. Pipes for external sewerage are used cast iron, ceramic or asbestos, but they can also be plastic if laid in places where there is no increased load. The pipes must slope towards the drain.

When installing the toilet, remember that its outlet should not be lower than the neck of the pipe. In this case, it is raised using bricks and cement. A toilet bowl outlet is put on the cuff with a seal, the cuff itself is inserted into the pipe.

On a note

If necessary, it is better to put 2 knees at 45 ° than one at 90 °. So the flow of plums will not slow down.

The toilet is located below ground level.

Here you need a fecal pump. Buying one is not a problem, summer residents are offered a wide range of models that differ in power, distance, method of pumping waste (vertically or horizontally), etc.

The final chord: what to do with the "good" from the toilet

The country sewer system is divided into two types

Shower and toilet in the country: for beginner builders

Even if in your life you have not built anything more complicated than a stool, you can build a toilet and a shower in your summer cottage.

STEP 1. CASIN

The walls of the cesspool are best sealed by providing a hatch for pumping out waste.

1. First, we clean the construction site from roots, trees, bushes and debris. For a family of 3-4 people, we dig a hole one meter wide, 120 cm long, 200 cm deep.
2. The earth should not crumble into a pit and clutter up the construction site. We take the fertile layer on a garden wheelbarrow to the garden, clay - away from our site.
3. We strengthen the walls of the resulting pit. We take flat sheets of slate 1 * 2 m in size and cut them with a grinder according to the size of the walls. We lower the sheets down and fix them in the pit with the help of corners from the reinforcement. To this end, we punch holes in the slate and hammer the corners into the wall of the pit.
4. The gaps between the walls of the pit and the slate should be sealed with reinforcement rods. We put the rods in the slots, then we lay the sheets of roofing material for waterproofing, then we fill in the cement mortar.
5. We place a sheet of iron at the bottom of the pit: this way the earth will be sealed from sewage.
6. For now, we cover the finished pit with polyethylene from dampness and precipitation, while we ourselves begin to build a columnar foundation.

STEP 2. FILLING THE FOUNDATION

A shower and a toilet for a summer residence can be economically combined in one building. The parameters of such a building are: a width of one and a half meters, a length of 3 meters, a height of 2 m 20 cm. Thus, the premises will be 1.5 by 1.5 m in area. However, for a family of three, there is enough building area for a shower and toilet 1.2 * 1.2 m.

On a note

It is very important to spread the slate sheets with wooden bars before pouring the solution.

1. The building will be wooden, which means that the foundation will be quite columnar, light, 80 cm deep.
2. We cut 16 wooden stakes and mark the place of the future foundation. Along the perimeter of a rectangle with parameters of 150 by 300 cm, we install 14 stakes every 75 cm. We also put pegs in the far corners of the pit: there will be a hatch through which the cesspool will be cleaned in the future.
3. We check the location and verticality of the pegs. There should be equal spacing between stakes, all angles should be 90°.
4. For drilling holes, it is best to use a garden drill with a 13 cm auger. We make 16 holes. We supply each pit with a wooden formwork, the height-length-width of which is 20 x 20 * 20 cm. Using the building level, we equalize the formwork horizontally.
5. We insert three reinforcing bars into each pit, which are fastened together with a wire - so the foundation will be reliable. We place a rolled roofing material at the bottom of the pit so that the concrete is isolated from the soil.
6. We fill the recesses with cement mortar. Small crushed stone is often added to cement, based on the ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone 1:3:5. The solution is equal to the formwork.
7. In the center of each hole we place a metal hairpin with a diameter of about 10 mm. We deepen the hairpin by 12 cm so that 8 cm remain above the cement level.
8. While the cement hardens, we prepare a wooden beam for the construction of the frame.

STEP 3. CONSTRUCTION OF THE FRAME

We need a beam, the side of which will be equal to 10 cm. When the cement has hardened, it's time to remove the formwork and make the bottom trim of the foundation.

1. Using a chainsaw, along the length of the sides of the future building, we saw off the bars and connect them to each other half a tree. That is, 5 cm from the thickness of the beam is cut from each side, and so the beams are interconnected according to the principle of a puzzle.
2. We drill holes into which the studs protruding from our columnar foundation will enter.
3. We lay the overlap, securing it with a washer with a nut with a spanner wrench.
4. Do not forget to lay a roofing material under the timber for waterproofing.
5. The lower trim is ready: the bars lie on poles, tied with studs and nuts. After that, the wooden strapping bars are covered with a protective compound from external influences.
6. Above the pit (there will be a floor and a “podium” seat), two metal channels are laid for strength.
7. Part of the cesspool outside the perimeter of the walls is covered with a board and protected with a moisture-proof material. In the future, the hose of the as-senator machine can be inserted by removing several boards.
8. We begin to install vertical poles. Their height is equal to the height of the future building - 220 cm. The first pillars are installed in the corners of the building, checking the correctness of their installation with a building level.
9. We connect the vertical pillars of the frame to the bottom trim using metal plates and corners for fasteners. For reliability, we install spacers at the base of the pillars, securing them with long screws.
10. We install the next two pillars where the doors will be. Their height is 200 cm, the width between them is 80 cm. Above the door, at a height of two meters, we strengthen the spacer horizontally. And the remaining 20 cm between the doorway and the ceiling will subsequently be glazed. We also fix these pillars with spacers, fixed with long self-tapping screws. When the pillars are installed, it is necessary to make the upper trim: the timber is also connected in half a tree.
11. The entire structure is treated with an antiseptic composition to prevent wood decay.

Not a single place of residence of people can do without a toilet, and the dacha is no exception. Building a country toilet with your own hands will not be difficult. The toilet for a summer residence can be organized in various ways, from the traditional rustic to the modern septic tank. This article will look at how to organize a place for the collection and disposal of waste and make a comfortable and beautiful toilet.

Types of toilets for summer cottages

Country toilet according to the method of device can be divided into three types: street, peat, septic tank or cesspool.

Outdoor or summer toilet for giving is a separate building with a pit under it for collecting waste - this is the simplest type, it will perfectly satisfy all the needs of the owners.

Fig.2.

Fig.3.

Its main advantage is that cleaning may not be performed for more than 10 years, due to the slow accumulation of waste. This is facilitated by its device, the pit is leaky and has ventilation. Part of the liquid fraction evaporates, and part is absorbed into the soil. Thus, the accumulation of sewage is very slow.

Fig.4.

Fig.5.

With all the advantages of an outdoor toilet, it cannot be built at a high groundwater level, more than 2.5 m. Otherwise, the water in the pit will be constant, and not only in the spring, and sewage can get into the groundwater. This is especially dangerous if the water supply of the cottage is carried out using a well. Also, certain norms are imposed on the installation of a country toilet according to the location on the site.

Peat or Finnish toilet for a summer residence- this is a structure without a pit, all sewage is accumulated in a special tank. The country toilet of the Finnish design is arranged as a separate building. It has a simple operating principle. After each use, waste products are sprinkled with peat, or a mixture of peat with ash, sawdust, and crushed bark. The mixture promotes the decomposition of sewage. As soon as the container is full, it must be emptied into a compost heap for further processing. Recycled waste is an organic fertilizer that can be used to feed plants.

Fig.6.

Fig.7.

This species has no location restrictions. A dry composting toilet has the disadvantage of having to empty the contents regularly. Therefore, it is advisable to arrange it if the cottage is used seasonally and no more than 1 - 2 people use it constantly.

Fig.8.

Fig.9.

Fig.10.

septic tank allows you to organize a bathroom in a country house. This becomes possible thanks to a sealed cesspool, which can be installed anywhere on the site and at any level of groundwater. A septic tank makes it possible to make a toilet in the country with a toilet like in a city apartment. Unlike a country toilet, a septic tank can be used year-round. Therefore, it is usually arranged in places of permanent residence.

Fig.11.

Fig.12.

The disadvantage of a septic tank is its high cost and complexity of installation. The septic tank does not just accumulate waste, it recycles it. A septic tank can be of various designs. Depending on the type of septic tank, the percentage of processing is different, but does not reach 100%, so it is necessary to periodically pump out deposits, while doing it yourself is quite difficult. In this connection, there must be access to the septic tank for the entrance of a sewage truck.

Fig.13.

Fig.14.

Building an outdoor toilet with your own hands

Most dachas are used only in summer. Therefore, the outdoor toilet is the most popular. The construction of a country toilet with a cesspool under it will not require much effort, it is quite easy to do it yourself, and you can use improvised materials during construction.

Norms for the location of the toilet for a summer residence

The first stage of construction is the choice of a place for its installation. When choosing a place, it is necessary to take into account sanitary standards.

Fig.15.

The country toilet should be located at a distance of at least 8 m from residential buildings, at least 12 m from the cellar and at least 25 m from a clean water source (well or well). Therefore, it is usually placed in the far corner of the garden.

Fig.16.

Fig.17.

Sooner or later, the cesspool will fill up and the toilet will be unusable. The pit can be cleaned or the toilet moved to another location. As a rule, they choose the second option, make a new hole next to the old one and transfer the booth. Compositions with bacteria are added to the old cesspool, which in a couple of years will turn sewage into compost. The compost can be removed for fertilization and the pit can be reused.

How to make a hole for a toilet

A toilet for a summer residence begins to be erected from a cesspool device. A standard pit has a depth of 1 - 1.5 m and a width of 1 m. If the groundwater is far enough away, then the depth of the toilet pit can be greater.

Fig.18.

In order for the pit not to crumble, it is necessary to strengthen the walls. You can strengthen them with bricks, rubble, old car tires, concrete rings, or install a tank. A more durable option is concrete rings. However, the simplest, fastest and most popular is the barrel. In this design, a metal or plastic container with a volume of 200 liters is used.

Fig.19.

Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the cesspool with a layer of 10 - 15 cm. Holes are made in the barrel through which the liquid fraction of sewage will go into the soil. A barrel is installed in a pit and covered with rubble around the perimeter. Crushed stone will act as drainage and prevent siltation of the pit. Instead of crushed stone, you can use broken brick, stone, etc. Thus, the service life of a country toilet can be significantly increased.

Fig.20.

Fig.21.

Fig.22.

How to make a foundation for a toilet cubicle

The second stage in the construction of a toilet for a summer residence is the construction of a cabin. Traditionally, the cabin is made using frame technology. First, the frame is assembled, then sheathed with clapboard, profiled sheet or siding. The frame toilet can be assembled from a wooden beam or welded from a metal profile.

Fig.23.

Fig.24.

Fig.25.

The cabin is quite light in construction, so a special foundation is not required. So that the toilet cubicle does not stand directly on the ground, it is placed on concrete blocks. In turn, concrete blocks are placed on a sand cushion 10–20 cm thick. This approach provides a reliable foundation and natural ventilation, which contributes to the absence of smell.

Fig.26.

Fig.27.

Fig.28.

The easiest way is to make a booth out of wood, because. when working with wood, no special tools, such as welding, are required. A wooden cabin will not heat up in the sun, unlike a profiled sheet toilet, and it will be comfortable to use.

Fig.29.

A wooden booth with your own hands can be made from a bar with a section from 50x50 mm to 100x100 mm. First, the base of the frame is assembled, then vertical racks are installed, after which the rafters are attached and the crate is made.

Fig.30.

Fig.31.

Fig.32.

All elements of the cabin frame are connected with self-tapping screws and construction metal corners. Outside, it is sewn up with a board, rail or block house, which makes the cabin look like a log toilet. Any roofing material can be used for roofing. The door for the toilet house can be made from boards or used ready-made.

Fig.33.

Fig.34.

toilet seat

The toilet seat can be made in various ways. Two options are most popular: a platform and a special plastic bucket. When making a platform, it is important to consider that its height should be 45 cm and a width of 60 cm. Such dimensions guarantee the convenience of using the country toilet.

Fig.35.

Fig.36.

Fig.37.

An important point to consider when building a booth is the presence of a window. The window performs two functions of lighting and ventilation. The window should not be glazed, so the house will not be hot and there will be no smell.

Fig.38.

Fig.39.

Drawings of a toilet cubicle

The toilet cubicle may have a different design, but the principle of construction is identical for everyone. Here are some examples.

Fig.40.

Fig.41.

Fig.42.

Fig.43.

Fig.44.

Fig.45.

Fig.46.

Fig.47.

Fig.48.

Fig.49.

Fig.50.

Fig.51.

Fig.52.

Cesspool toilet in the country

A septic tank, for seasonal use, is rarely done due to the high labor intensity of its device. Of course, you can buy a ready-made septic tank, but then you will have to pay a considerable amount of money for it. If the cottage is visited all year round, then the installation of a septic tank fully justifies the effort and money spent on it.

Fig.53.

A septic tank is a sealed chamber or several chambers into which waste products enter, where they accumulate and are partially processed. The main criterion for the construction of a septic tank is its volume. For a family of three, the minimum volume of a septic tank should be 1.5 cubic meters.

The simplest septic tank consists of one chamber and it is quite easy to do it yourself, because. in fact, it is a sealed cesspool, which eliminates the leakage of sewage and flooding with groundwater.

Fig.54.

Fig.55.

The procedure for constructing a cesspool for a country toilet is as follows. They dig a pit 1.5 - 2 m deep. A sand cushion 20 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the pit. Next, a concrete slab 10 cm thick is poured, this will be the bottom of the cesspool. After that, the walls of the cesspool are erected from brick, stone or concrete. Outside, the buildings are waterproofed to protect against groundwater. A sewer pipe from the toilet is brought to the cesspool. The sewer pipe is laid with a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 m of length. On top of the pits arrange a roof. The roof can be made of wood or concrete. For year-round use, the roof of the cesspool must be insulated. When creating a roof, a hatch for pumping sewage must be provided.

Fig.56.

A simpler and faster option for creating a cesspool is to use precast concrete structures, such as rings. In this case, it is necessary to dig a pit, mount rings in it and bring a sewer pipe from the country toilet.

Fig.57.

Fig.58.

Additionally, the septic tank must be insulated and equipped with ventilation. The simplest ventilation option is to install a fan riser in the house and bring the pipe to the roof level.

A septic tank of this type is operated quite simply. Gradually, it is filled with sewage, and when 2/3 of the volume of the septic tank is filled, it is emptied by a sewage machine. This will have to be done regularly, so the septic tank must be located in a place accessible to the entrance of the sewer.

Diagrams and drawings of a homemade septic tank device

Fig.59.

Fig.60.

Fig.61.

Fig.62.

Autonomous sewerage system

An alternative to a homemade septic tank is the Tank septic tank. It is a plastic barrel divided into sections. First, the first section is filled, while solid waste descends to the bottom, and only the liquid fraction remains on the surface. As it fills, the liquid fraction overflows into the adjacent section, where similar processes take place. A composition containing anaerobic bacteria that decompose sewage is added to the septic tank. The water purified in this way is drained into the drain, and the sediment is pumped out by a sewer.

Fig.63.

Another option for a septic tank with a high percentage of waste recycling is the Autonomous Sewerage septic tank. The principle of its operation is similar to a traditional septic tank, with the only exception that the autonomous sewage system is equipped with an air compressor, which enriches the sewage with oxygen, and the decomposition process is under the influence of aerobic bacteria. Autonomous sewage is dependent on electricity, but allows you to achieve a high degree of recycling of waste.

Fig.64.

Fig.65.

Fig.66.

The installation of the last two types of septic tank consists in preparing a pit, installing a septic tank in it and connecting it to the sewerage system of the house.

We have considered all the ways of arranging and building a toilet for a summer residence. If you plan to live or visit the cottage all year round and want to have the comfort of a city apartment, then you should immediately install a septic tank. If you visit the cottage only in the summer, then it is easier and faster to build a summer toilet with a cesspool under it. If you do not often visit the country house, then the simplest version of the toilet device is the Finnish peat toilet. Whatever version of the toilet you choose, any of them will perfectly meet your needs, and the cottage will not be left without a toilet.

Any suburban area should have a toilet. Moreover, it must be organized before the start of the construction itself, because this room is the most necessary for people to stay in the country. Other buildings, such as a bathhouse or a gazebo, will be built later.

A country toilet can be made without asking for help from specialists, who will certainly take a lot of money. Therefore, it is first necessary, in accordance with all sanitary and hygienic requirements, to select a place for the structure, and then choose the type of structure and methods of its construction.

Choose a place

It should be noted that there are certain requirements and norms for placing such buildings on the street. This is especially true for those toilets in which sewage directly comes into contact with soil or groundwater.

You must adhere to the following rules:

• The nearest body of water must be at least 25 meters away. In the event that the territory is located on sloping terrain, then the structure must be installed below the water source. This will prevent impurities from entering the source.
• The distance from the cellar or basement of the house to the toilet is at least 12 m.
• From a bath, sauna or other structure - at least 8 m.
• The distance to the place of stay of animals is at least 4 meters.
• From the trunk of the nearest tree - 4 m, and from shrubs - 1 m.
• The distance from the fence of the adjacent territory is one meter.
• When choosing a place, be sure to consider the wind rose, this is necessary so as not to annoy yourself and your neighbors with unpleasant odors.
• The door must be installed so that it opens towards your house.

It is worth considering not only the distance to your water source, but also take into account the location of the well or well of the neighbors!

All these requirements must be taken into account not only in relation to their own territory, but also to the neighboring one (regarding the location of shrubs, baths, cellars, and the like). But these requirements directly apply only to the pit latrine. The rest should be guided by ease of use.

Kinds

There are four most common types of toilet:

1. With a cesspool.
2. Powder closet.

It is a sealed cesspool, which can be large in size, and its cleaning is carried out by a sewage machine.

If speak about powder closet, then this is a type where a container is located under the toilet seat, which needs to be cleaned from time to time. With each use, it is necessary to sprinkle sewage with a small layer of peat. A bucket of peat is placed nearby. This option is the easiest for any cottage, however, the process of removing feces is quite unpleasant.

Well, the last alternative is bio or chemical toilet. Here all impurities are broken down by special bacteria. This process is completely environmentally friendly.

We start building. Cesspool and wall reinforcement

It is the toilet with a cesspool that is the most in demand due to its simple operation. All impurities fall into a deep pit. When it is 2/3 filled, it must be cleaned. There is also the option of transferring it, but we will talk about this below.

The size of the cesspool can be 1.5 × 1.5 meters, and the depth is up to two meters.

To strengthen future walls, several optimal options are used. For example, you can take boards pre-treated with an antiseptic, concrete rings, bricks, a barrel without a bottom, or old tires. Care must be taken to remove sewage from the cesspool.

If brickwork is used, then the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, and the last six rows are laid solid. If a backlash closet is being equipped, then excellent sealing of the pit is needed here. Therefore, a screed is poured to the bottom, or it is simply covered with rubble. If a brick cesspool is made, then a concrete floor is poured on top. For this, formwork is made of bars and boards. After the concrete has hardened, the frame must be dismantled.

It is extremely important to leave a hole for the toilet as well as for ventilation. Moreover, an additional hole is needed for pumping out feces.

If you do not want to constantly clean the pit, then you can fill it up, and move the house to another place. After several movements, it can be returned to its original place, and the decayed waste can be used to fertilize the beds.

Buy ready-made or build your own

Today there are a large number of ready-made houses for the toilet. To a greater extent, everything will depend on your financial situation and the amount of free time.

If you still decide to build a toilet yourself, then there are several ways. For example, brick. You will get a reliable design, but for it it is necessary to provide a good foundation outside the cesspool. Most often in summer cottages you can find a house made of wood. For its construction, it is better to use bars 50 × 60 mm.

As for the supporting frame, its base must be strong and reliable enough, because the entire structure above the cesspool will be located on it. For this reason, it is better to use a beam of 100 × 100 mm. Before installation, it must be treated with an antiseptic, which will increase its performance.

As an antiseptic, some use molten bitumen in a 1: 1 ratio!

Installation of the frame can be carried out on a strip or on a column foundation. In some cases, when possible, it is simply installed on the ground. To make waterproofing, a strip of roofing material is laid between the foundation layer and the soil. Several anchor bolts are fixed to the base of the foundation. They will protect the structure from capsizing the house in the event of a strong gusty wind.

When the frame is installed on the ground, the vertical frame racks are dug into the ground by 30 cm. A board is tightly laid on top of the finished frame, the thickness of which can be 40 mm. A variety of materials are used for wall cladding, such as lining or OSB board.

If the sheathing is carried out from the inside, then the walls can be insulated with mineral wool or foam. In the frame itself, transverse strips should be provided at a height of approximately 500 mm. They are necessary for fixing the plane of the toilet seat. Different materials can be used as a roof, such as slate or tiles. Its slope will be formed based on the height of the front and rear pillars.

Ventilation is needed to eliminate unpleasant odors from the cesspool. For this reason, a hole must be provided in the design of the toilet. To do this, use a sewer plastic pipe Ø100 mm. It can be fixed with a metal clamp to the back wall of the toilet. The pipe itself must be brought into the cesspool by at least 15–20 cm. The height of the pipe will be 20 cm higher than the roof plane. To improve traction, a deflector nozzle is installed at the end of the pipe.

Lighting

To make lighting in this room or not is your own business. To save light in the daytime, you can make a small window in the door. So, the whole day in the toilet there will be natural light. Some decide to install a small window on one of the walls, under the roof. At the same time, it can be glazed, or simply fix the grid. There is also the option of connecting wall lights or LED lights. They are connected to a battery. This must be taken care of before finishing work.

If you encounter any problem during the construction process, then ask us your questions.

Video: building a powder closet at their summer cottage

A photo

Drawings and diagrams

Equipping a summer cottage, any owner, first of all, thinks about how to make it comfortable and functional.

And at the same time, such a building as a toilet is taken into account. After all, going out into nature, you refuse many of the benefits of civilization, however, it is absolutely impossible to live without some.

In this article we will tell you about how to properly and quickly build a toilet on the site. It will be comfortable and will last more than one season. And you don't have to spend a lot on it.

Where should the construction process begin?

It is immediately worth noting that brick and concrete structures will not be considered, since their construction is capital and not all summer residents can afford it.

Budget options will be considered that even people with a low income level can erect on their own at their summer cottage. With what it is necessary to begin construction Of course, from the preparatory stage.

The first thing to do, after you have absolutely decided that you want to build a toilet, is to choose the type of drain, diversion and waste disposal. This can only be done based on the conditions that are specific to your site.

Once you figure this out for yourself, you can proceed to the next preparatory stage, which involves determining the location of the structure.

Before you finally approve the location of the toilet, consider whether it is convenient.

After that, you should make a decision regarding the type of construction. You can build either a cabin or a so-called booth. In this case, it completely depends on your wishes and preferences. There are no special recommendations here.

Next, you need to think about how the finished structure will look like and how it can be decorated. Of course, the decoration will require additional materials, so if you do not have the opportunity to purchase them, refuse to decorate.

You can simply paint the finished structure and thus make it more beautiful.

Once you're done with that, you can start drawing up your cost estimate. Doing this is highly recommended. After all, in this way you will find out the approximate amount of the estimated expenses and, if necessary, make adjustments to the estimate.

For example, if you have chosen quite expensive materials, you can replace them with cheaper counterparts.

Booth or cabin - what to choose?

As already mentioned above, the owner of the site must independently decide on the choice of design.

However, in order to simplify it somewhat, we will talk about some characteristics of these structures. Knowing them, you can easily determine what suits you best.

Booth. The main material that is used in the construction of a country toilet booth is wood. However, we are not talking about expensive wood species. Often, ordinary cheap wood is used.

A toilet of this type retains heat very well and for a long time, so being in it in the autumn or winter period will be quite comfortable.

At the same time, it will not be hot at all in such a design in summer, since wood products “breathe”.

Having made a minimum of simple treatments, you can significantly increase the moisture resistance of the structure, making it many times stronger. It should also be noted that the construction of the foundation in this case is optional.

Cabin. There are several variations that make the toilet cabin more interesting in appearance than the booth. However, it is immediately worth noting that most of these options are extremely unstable and require mandatory laying of the foundation.

One of the simplest and most affordable ways to strengthen is to place a water tank on the roof of a country toilet.

The strength of the cabin under load increases and this allows you to use its attic to store various garden tools or other utensils.

Do not forget that if you want to build a really beautiful country toilet, you should give preference to a cabin. Decorating it is much easier and more interesting.

Photo of a country toilet

Where does the arrangement of a summer cottage begin? Well, sir, you have questions. From the toilet, of course (option: “Hey, well, you asked! From the push, a no brainer!”). So let's see what you need to know and how to do in order to quickly, without unnecessary hassle and expense, build a toilet in the country. What is it, why is it and why without it there is no way at all - see above. Therefore, we omit the typical preambles.

Trends of the times

The country toilet today is not at all the same as it was 20 or even 10 years ago. And it's not just fashion:

• The environmental situation as a whole has deteriorated and, accordingly, sanitary requirements have become tougher. Traditional solutions do not always fit into them.
• There has been a real revolution in the technology of recycling and neutralization of waste, and many of its achievements are available in everyday life.
• People's demands for quality of life have increased, including not only comfort with ergonomics, but also external design.

Based on this, we will figure out how to build a country toilet with our own hands. With one small caveat: we will only touch on brick and concrete structures in passing: this is already a capital construction with all the ensuing requirements. At the summer cottage, it is possible to build a separate warm capital toilet only in exceptional cases due to the small land area. But let's dwell on the architectural design of the most important building, which is included in the quality of life, and the toilet in this respect is one of the most difficult objects. If not the hardest. However, amenable to decision; for an example, see fig.

Note: toilets from a profiled sheet on a metal frame, frankly, are uncomfortable - in summer it is parko, in the off-season it is cold. Good metal cabins are made mainly of industrial production with insulation and inner lining. Then the production cycle is cheaper than carpentry. If you are still interested in this aspect, then the home-made upper structure will be identical, and the floor with a toilet seat will be described below.

Let's look at how to bring beauty in the end. First you need to deal with the construction, and the design is already tied to it. To build a toilet that is cozy, clean, hygienic and pleasing to the eye, you must first solve other problems:

1. Select the type of system for draining, draining and utilizing wastewater based on local conditions.
2. Determine the location of the toilet on the site.
3. Choose the type and design solution of the ground structure; simply - cabins or booths.
4. Deal with its decorative design: which of the appropriate in this case will be able to do.
5. Estimate construction costs.

I must say that these problems are closely interconnected and you need to deal with them together. A little aside there is only a booth; it almost does not interact with the underground part and the base. So the toilet cabin can be made, in general, whatever you like, and this is the easiest and cheapest part of the work. Therefore, we will start with it.

Booth

The main material for the construction, as mentioned above, we take a tree. It is known that it is inexpensive, easily processed, keeps heat well, breathes, and after simple processing (see below) remains harmless to humans, but acquires resistance to bad weather and becomes unsuitable for the settlement of various kinds of infection. However, there are still circumstances due to which a wooden toilet is the best solution for giving.

About foundations and supports

The soil is considered suitable for construction if its bearing capacity without additional measures to strengthen it and the foundation is at least 1.7 kg sq. see Convert to square meters; we get 17 tons (!). The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet cabin in terms of rarely exceeds 2.5-3 square meters. m; hozbloka - 15-20 sq. m. Is it conceivable that they weigh 40-50 and 250-350 tons, respectively?

Move on. Soil is considered excessively heaving when it freezes by 12%. We take the thickness of the humus layer, which swells the most, at 50 cm; this is not a cottage, but an eldorado. 50x0.12 \u003d 6 cm. On homogeneous loose soils, a uniformly swelling surface is considered to be one whose horizontal size is equal to 100 absolute values ​​of heaving; in this case - 600 cm or 6 m.

Are there toilets or change houses larger than 6x6 m in plan? We conclude: a toilet in a summer cottage can be built without a foundation. With seasonal ground movements, it will simply rise and fall by less than 10 cm (and most likely by 3-4), without warping at all, which is completely imperceptible.

Moreover, it is not necessary to build a foundation for a toilet: taking into account the allotment of land for a construction site with excavation, at least a hundred square meters is withdrawn from the economic turnover. And if the site is already planted, what to do? And from a construction point of view: an unloaded foundation buried in the ground can warp and tilt more than the soil surface. The reason is the uneven and inhomogeneous freezing of its layers. The foundation tape, piles or pillars feel it, in contrast to the surface, immediately “with the whole body”.

Note: therefore, builders strive to finish the foundations early in order to build as many walls as possible before the cold weather. An exception is the foundations of a large depth, they can winter without restrictions.

The conclusion “without a foundation” is known to summer residents without calculations with special knowledge. Toilet cabins are placed on bricks or ready-made small reinforced concrete monoliths. However, it would be best to put an outdoor toilet on a couple of concrete posts for trellises. They are sold not only in the southern regions for vineyards; in colder places they go under hops and other climbing crops.

Tapestry poles are produced with a length of 1.2-6 m, with overall dimensions in plan from 10x12 to 20x30 cm. The cross section is trapezoidal, with rounded corners of the smaller side. And on the larger one - rigging eyes made of wire rod 6-12 mm. Sawed them in the middle with a grinder and gently unbent, we get the pins for attaching the cabin to the base.

Note: if the toilet is with a cesspool, then the problem of the cabin's rear support beam (wood in a chemically aggressive environment) is not only resolved by itself - it simply does not arise.

In places with strong winds, it is still advisable to make support posts from a 80x80 bar or a 40x40x2 professional pipe under the booth. Metal concrete is concreted about 30 cm deeper than the humus layer, and wooden ones are dug in to the same depth, pre-treated with very hot bitumen and wrapped with roofing material with sprinkling (rough).

Constructions

Materials and upholstery

Cabin lumber is mainly used in 4 types:

• Bar 60x60 or 80x80 - for the frame.
• Grooved board 40x (120-150) - for the floor and toilet seat.
• Edged or tongue-and-groove board 20-30 mm for external cladding.
• Edged or unedged board-twenty or slats 50x20 for roof lathing.

Sheathing board can be replaced with waterproof plywood or OSB 8-20 mm thick. In the latter case, the slats for the crate can be cut into them. It will also only be better from all sides and only a little more expensive if a tongue-and-groove magpie is put on the skin.

Sheathing with a tongue-and-groove board will show all its advantages if the cabin is sheathed with horizontal belts. But then it is absolutely necessary to orient the crests of the tongues up, and the grooves down, in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the tongue. In any case, the door is sheathed vertically.

Curvilinear sections, suddenly such will be required according to the conditions of registration, it is better to sheathe in a marine way with a boat board, see fig. Also, such sheathing will last longer in places with heavy rainfall, but it holds a strong wind a little worse than sheet piling. Having a jigsaw with a swivel shoe, it is easy to make a boat board from a cut one; the angle of inclination of the visor of the board is about 30 degrees. The peaks of the boards should be oriented down the slope, as in fig.

Massive, i.e. from solid wood, after cutting to size, lumber must be treated: all without exception with anti-rot preparations (biocides), and then soaked twice with a water-polymer emulsion; this inexpensive material protects the tree from moisture for many years. It is necessary to impregnate in this sequence, otherwise the PVA film will not let the biocide into the tree! And if it’s necessary, then it will prevent its volatilization and washing out. Details facing the ground or cesspool (for flooring and lining the toilet seat - under the boards) must be additionally treated with hot bitumen or bituminous mastic.

Cabin types

A wooden toilet on the street, according to the type and technology of construction, is carried out in general in 4 architectural forms; see fig.: hut, birdhouse, house, hut.

The difference between them is insignificant, but still there:

1. The hut is structurally simple, durable, resistant to wind and precipitation, the least material-intensive, but takes up more land for itself and is inconvenient: a step to the right, a step to the left - a knock on the head. And for "not knocking" you need to take the height of the ridge up to 3 m or more, so that the savings in materials disappear. The design is most appropriate primitivist-rustic.
2. A birdhouse is even simpler than a hut, it will take no more wood for it, it takes a minimum of land. But the structure is weak, and the whole structure does not hold heat well and is easier to blow by the wind, this is a common drawback of all buildings with a shed roof. Doesn't suit the design. However, as a summer toilet or a section of a utility block in the backyard behind dense vegetation, a birdhouse toilet is optimal; especially due to the fact that on its roof a solar-heated water pressurized tank is placed without problems. The cabin under load at the same time acquires additional strength.
3. The house is warmer and a little stronger than a birdhouse. Materials and land require the same amount. A water tank is more difficult to attach, but almost any decoration and decoration is acceptable.
4. The hut is more complicated than the others, more material is wasted. Thanks to its faceted shape, it is very durable and can withstand any climatic conditions. Ergonomics and functionality - it can't be better: a shelf and a washstand do not take up floor space, you can also attach a hanger. By design - do everything that is only suitable for a toilet, and by itself fits into any landscape.

About sizes

The recommended sizes of cabins for a birdhouse and a house on the floor, together with a toilet seat, are from 1.2 m wide and from 1.5 m deep. For a hut with a hut, the depth is the same, but the width is taken from 0.9 m - in a hut at shoulder level (this is about 1.6 m from the floor for a person of average height in shoes), and in a hut along the floor. In block Khrushchevs there are toilets 0.7x1.1 m, then they don’t go there in warm outerwear and garden shoe covers.

Note: the width of the toilet of a summer cottage on a weekend can be reduced to 1 m.

In any case, there should be at least 40 cm from the head of a standing person to the nearest wall, this is important when calculating the angle of inclination of the walls of the hut. The height of the ceiling above the floor is not lower than 2.1 m, above the toilet seat - from 1.9 m. The height of the side of the seat above the floor, also based on heavy shoes, is taken more than the standard for an apartment toilet 40 cm by 5-6, up to 10 cm, t .e. 45-50 cm, depending on the height of users.

About door hinges

Cabins, a hut, a birdhouse and a house have a common drawback: if you forget to lock the door, the wind can loosen it together with the booth in just 10-20 minutes. To avoid this, it is advisable to hang the door on barn hinges, as in pos. 1-3 fig. above. A strong hut is not afraid of this, its door can be safely hung on hidden hinges.

Building a booth

The construction of the simplest birdhouse cabin is illustrated step by step in Fig; the entire installation is carried out on nails 100 mm (for 60 mm timber) or 150 mm, for timber 80x80. Sheathing is carried out on nails 60-70 mm. The build order is:

1. The bearing belt, or corner slabs / columns are covered with a simple, without sprinkling, roofing material in 2 layers;
2. Immediately (an inexpensive roofing material that is not stabilized to UV in the light quickly deteriorates), the lower support frame is assembled from a bar. Don't forget to edit!
3. Lay the floor to the front edge of the toilet seat. On the rest of the frame, a board of the same thickness as for the floor is stuffed. Also do not forget to process, especially from the underside;
4. Prepare the front (large) and rear frames. Joints cut into half a tree;
5. The front frame and the backdrop are nailed to the bottom and tied with couplers cut into a quarter;
6. The frame of the toilet seat is made in the same way;
7. Sheathe the toilet seat, cut out the seat window (a point is a completely legal technical term) and sheathe the walls;
8. Assemble the roof sheathing;
9. They lay a roof (any hard roofing material), cut out an ace, hang a door (see below about it), sheathe the corners - you're done! Whoever is more impatient there, you can already!

The described method is far from the only acceptable one. The construction of a toilet booth is possible in other ways. For example, see a rather detailed video:

Video: do-it-yourself toilet in the country

What is a toilet ace?

This is the same figured window above the door or in its canvas. Its symbolism is now forgotten, but in the sanctimonious Middle Ages it was quite definite. The heart is not really a call for sex in a latrine, but an ace of hearts. It meant that this latrine was publicly available. Diamond - only for the fair sex! In the old days, ladies had the right to use any free cabin, and gentlemen - only for them.

There was no smell of feminism or even equality here: the same gentlemen bluntly put on chastity belts (a monstrous device in their unsanitary conditions) on those to whom they sang romances, and killing a wife for adultery was not considered a crime. Gallantry is gallantry, but take out the right of the strong and put it down! The clubs and aces of spades were not used: the churchmen and the military would be offended. In the days of the Inquisition, who knows what was even more fraught ... A nobleman would quickly stab or hack to death, and the holy fathers could send him to the stake.

More cabins

The second most demanded of the toilet cabins is the hut. Since its structure is more complicated, we present a finished project with cutting boards and calculating material consumption, see fig. Pay attention to the door: its canvas with such a system of power connections will withstand any wind and is suitable for any toilet. It is possible that the unlocked door, forgotten on weekdays, will be torn off, but the canvas will not loosen and the repair will be reduced to rehanging.

On fig. below are, for example, less detailed drawings of another birdhouse, a hut and a house. If you figure out how to build a hut, then further explanations will not be needed for them.

About the toilet in the garden

For a number of reasons, which will be discussed in more detail at the end of the article, it is advisable to build a toilet on the site, especially a hut and a house, among the trees. However, the construction of a garden toilet has some peculiarities. They are not big enough to linger on their description, so we just offer a video:

Video: building a garden toilet

Hozbloki

In dachas, it is customary to combine a toilet, shower, barn; perhaps - a summer kitchen and a shelter from the weather (if there is no house yet or a commodity cottage, where squares of land give money) in one block. At least from the point of view of the biochemistry of wastewater, this is justified: in the dacha, the share of gray water (drainage from the shower and from the kitchen) is much less relative to fecal water than in a residential building, and the volume of flow is small, so it makes little sense to think about their separate treatment. It is more profitable to process a cesspool (the hozblok allows only this option for waste disposal) with universal means. Therefore, let's see how it would be more capable to make a hozblok with a shower and a toilet for a summer residence.

Plan of the hozblok "Cheburashka"

On fig. above - a variant invented spontaneously and popularly under Khrushchev, later nicknamed "Cheburashka". Kits of parts for its assembly under the same name are still sold today. Feature - extreme simplicity, low cost and sufficient functionality with a minimum of occupied space. Support pillars (beam 100x100 or corrugated pipe 40x40x2) are dug in or concreted directly into the ground. Sheathed once with slate; now - professional sheet.

On the trail. rice. - 2 plans for household blocks are more complicated. Their larger premises can be used not only as a warehouse / barn, but also as a change house "from bad weather" with a kitchen; the presence of a window, its area and dimensions allow you to put a trestle bed and a table with a fireplace, and the wooden paneling is quite warm. It pays off with a larger occupied area and the fact that the entrance to the toilet with a shower is only from the street, there is no longer a place for a dressing room.

Finally, in fig. on the right - a utility block for construction in the corner of the site, with an open summer washbasin. The peculiarity is compactness and very tiny dimensions: the structure is brick, but if, with the same dimensions of the premises, it is made of wood, the dimensions in the plan are reduced to 2x2 m.

About the cesspool

We will talk more about cesspools, tricks in their construction and ways to do without a cesspool at all below; in general.

In the meantime - see the diagram in the figure, suitable for a yard toilet and a utility block. Pay attention to the reflector 1, it is absolutely necessary for the toilet, because. directs the discarded faeces to the front of the pit. Then they slowly slide into a pocket for pumping out, being processed by bacteria along the way. Without a reflector, the entire biocenosis in the pit will be confused, and approximately twice its volume will be needed. Gray drains are discharged into a pit without a reflector, but also into the front. A blind concrete box 4 and a clay castle 3 in the country house are also absolutely necessary to prevent infiltration into the soil, and the purpose of the inspection and cleaning door 2 does not require explanation.

How about at home?

It is understandable, recovering in warmth - in goodness is not only more comfortable, but also healthier. However, it is quite possible to arrange a country toilet in the house, but before a number of problems will need to be addressed.

The first is a cesspool. It is unrealistic to divert wastewater into a well with infiltration into the ground; according to the current sanitary rules, then you will need to maintain distances:

• At least 30 m from water supply sources, and with normal geology in the middle lane - 50-80 m.
• From stagnant water bodies and plantings of food crops - from 30 m.
• From rivers and streams - from 15 m.
• From buildings and roads - at least 5 m.
• From non-fruit trees, bushes and the border of the site - from 2 m.

All this applies not only to their own, but also to neighboring facilities that are prone to pollution. Neighborhood even more, tk. in the event of a conflict, the whole truth according to the law will be on their side. That is, a home-country toilet must be built with a cesspool of a deaf type, which requires periodic pumping. It must be said that with the help of modern means for cesspools, it can be solved: a sanitation service outside the city has to be called no more than once a quarter, and there is always time to cooperate with neighbors in this regard.

Note: craftsmen-dacha residents did not ignore the cesspools. For example, how to make a cesspool that is feasible for self-construction, that does not cause indignation of neighbors and subsequently suitable for legalization (dacha amnesty will not last a century), see the video below:

Video: do-it-yourself cesspool

The second problem is the smell. It is impossible to put a flush toilet with a water seal (siphon) over a cesspool even in a country house with excess and completely free water supply: excess moisture will destroy the bacteria in the pit, and not a planned pumping out will be needed, but emergency cleaning, with payment, except for a sanitary tank, for the work of a plumber team on the road .

Toilets with a cesspool are made backlash closets; simply - with a push in the form of a funnel with a lid. But the backlash-closet does not exclude the penetration of odors into the room, if only due to jumps in draft in the ventilation and blowing it with the wind. Therefore, the cesspool of a home toilet must be ventilated not with an ordinary fan pipe, but with a breather - ventilation with forced draft, which creates a pressure below atmospheric pressure in the pit.

Putting a fan on the breather broach is a disastrous business. Household in an aggressive environment will not last long; a very expensive special one (it must be, among other things, also explosion-proof) will have to be cleaned often, and what it grows there, it’s better not to see it, let alone smell it or touch it.

It is quite easy to arrange a toilet in a country house with heating; options for furnace and boiler see fig. A backlash channel with thermogradient thrust is made under the breather. In order for it to work even in the warm season, when they do not heat, the breather pipe (it must protrude at least 70 cm above the mouth of the chimney and the ridge of the roof) is made of metal and painted black, then the Sun will warm up.

However, there is also an option for seasonal cottages without heating. Recall that in the first brick Khrushchev houses, rather rough faience toilet bowls were washed clean, and many did not even keep a ruff on the farm. Why? The flush cistern was suspended from a 2.8 m high ceiling; for descent, a pear on a chain hung from it. In total, the pressure was over 2 m. A strong jet with a terrible noise demolished everything at once into the outlet.

Noise during the descent was not the last circumstance that gave rise to compact toilets. But in a classic sink with a tub, a weak jet could not wash anything at all. Then they came up with toilets with an oblique descent, see fig. on right. True, you can’t take a closer look at them - and what kind of chair I have now - and you can’t do without a ruff, but even a weak stream washes off acceptable.

The author, faced several years ago with the need to remake a country toilet, thought: it would not hurt to put something with a siphon so that it never stinks at all. The oblique unique is washed off quite cleanly with a weak stream, but what if you give it a strong one, as in Khrushchev's? Less water consumption with the same flush quality.

At first I wanted to buy a cheap compact with a tank without a dispenser (water flows while the button is pressed) and raise it higher, but then I thought: why? It is inconvenient to stretch, water is supplied according to the schedule, therefore, a pressure-storage tank is also needed. In the end, I took one sink with a downward outlet, right into the pit. I hung a 50-liter plastic barrel under the ceiling, and supplied water for flushing with two pieces of plastic corrugation through a ball valve with a handle to open it more sharply.

The result exceeded all expectations: it takes up to 3 liters of water to flush. From a 50-liter tank - 15-25 flushes per day, enough for four. The cleaning community in the pit is thriving.

Note: any of the cabins described above will withstand a 200-liter barrel under the ceiling, but it is not necessary. Users will get a taste, the pit will turn sour from excess moisture and begin to instantly overflow.

And without a pit?

Since there are such difficulties with the cesspool, is it possible to somehow make a latrine without a cesspool? It is possible and they do. Dry closets. But, firstly, any bio sewage, because. Bacteria, natural or artificial, are used to treat wastewater. Secondly, a toilet that is bio may not be bio at all. So let's understand better how it is possible to receive and process wastewater in the country without any, i.e. make a stand-alone toilet.

Autonomous public spaces are divided primarily into chemical and biological. They can be both, depending on which cartridge is connected, see below. In chemical effluents, they are processed with strong inorganic oxidizing agents or organic reagents of abiogenic origin (formalin, etc.). “Chemists” are expensive, their absorption and throughput capacity is high. The content of the spent cartridge is very toxic, its refilling and disposal is possible only by certified specialists using special equipment using protective equipment, so chemical toilets are rarely used in everyday life.

It is customary to call dry closets those in which the biocenosis of bacteria processing wastewater does not arise spontaneously, but is created by a specially sown culture. From this point of view, a deaf cesspool, processed by modern septic tanks, is also a dry closet, but we will consider options without the accumulation of liquefied sewage and not requiring pumping

The oldest species that has successfully survived to this day is a peat toilet with its kind of powder closet, this is not the same thing. Both use natural bacteria from peat bogs; conditions deep in a peat bog are very similar to those in a cesspool. Peat bacteria are inactive: they work slowly, they process effluents, based on the net volume of the culture, there is little. But they are extremely resilient, easily "fall asleep" and awaken when favorable conditions occur.

In a simple, or composting, peat closet (on the left in the figure), a 40-200 l collection container with stone drainage is placed under the backlash closet - it will absorb excess moisture, and then gradually give it away - and a breather that sucks out harmful gases. Without one or the other, a stable culture will not arise, it will either dry up and fall asleep, or turn sour and die, or get poisoned and also die.

Using a composting peat closet is simple: after sitting, peat crumbs are poured into the funnel. The collection is periodically shaken out on a compost heap, after aging for 2-3 years, the fermented and disinfected compost is suitable for fertilizer. But a composting toilet, firstly, does not guarantee against smell, and secondly, like a powder closet, see below, it cannot withstand overloads: suddenly a company showed up at the dacha to eat tightly with beer, the stench and the need for a complete cleaning with refueling are guaranteed.

"Pudrum" means dust. This word and its derivatives with different prefixes in the Romano-Germanic languages ​​are generally called any powders. For example, in English gunpowder means black powder, and baby powder means baby powder for scuffs. An excerpt from J. Durrell's book My Family and Other Animals will help you understand what a powder closet is. Anyone who has read Darrell (Gerald, not his older brother Lawrence) knows that the famous naturalist is also an extraordinary writer.

So, the “absurd family” of the Durrells, in the author’s own words, decided “to improve their health” to live for a long time on the island of Corfu, now Kerkyra. While we were looking for a house for permanent housing, we stopped at a hotel. Next - see the scan from the printed text.

The box that Geralda's sister did find in her room, she probably pulled out of the powder closet. The first devices of this kind were used as chamber pots and filled with peat dust. In the form of a bucket with peat crumbs under a toilet seat, they came to us in the middle latitudes, because. a real closet powder is effective at an average daily temperature above 23 degrees, and a bucket of crumbs needs to be emptied one way or another every day or more often.

A box of a real powder-closet with a capacity of 30, and preferably from 50 liters (in the center in the figure above) is filled with pressed peat plates tightly laid vertically. In places where peat is not available and it is expensive, special paper impregnated with peat extract is used, dense and durable, but highly porous, the so-called. kraft paper. It was this kind of closet powder that the civilized, without prejudice, but not very knowledgeable Margot Durrell encountered. However, she was then in a transitional age, and, having matured, she helped her brother a lot in his useful work.

Peat toilets are sold ready-made. Stationary ones (on the right in the figure above) can be used both as a powder closet and as a bio-toilet on artificial cultures: the drawer accommodates both a peat container and replaceable bacterial cartridges. No preparation for installation is required, the booth is simply placed where necessary. One filling with peat filler is enough for 2-3 people for 3-4 days, and with breaks for 5 days, at a weekend cottage, for 1-3 months.

Composting toilet seats are also on sale, but here you need to look both ways. First, all sorts of environmental, and in fact fraudulent societies produce products like "super-duper-eco-plus XXX" like the one on the left in Fig. They are eco-certified. But in fact it turns out that the peat dispenser needs to be filled with special granules, very expensive, otherwise it breaks right away. They do it themselves or their accomplices. A sort of outhouse Herbalife or Nature's Sushine. In general, network marketing as it is.

Sometimes, perhaps, simply out of incomprehension, under the guise of peat toilets, they sell toilet seats with a swivel cassette for special bacterial cartridges, on the right in fig. Peat can be filled in them, and you can also relieve yourself there. But if the cartridge is just changing, then how can you clean it on peat?

Autonomous toilets on microflora use highly effective bacteria obtained by genetic engineering. For humans, they are harmless and safe, proven by many years of experience, since the 80s. The culture cartridge changes on its own (the procedure is no dirtier than changing diapers), but the contents are unsuitable for fertilizer and must be recycled. To give a day off, 1 cassette is enough for the summer, for a seasonal one you will need 2-3 replacements. However, here, too, you need to choose carefully. No cheating, just all sorts of varieties.

For example, it makes no sense to take a very expensive public booth, pos. 1 in fig. at the bottom. Yes, it is warm, anti-vandal, it is able to accept a lot. But - the shelf life of any bacterial cartridge is limited, regardless of the nature of use. Culture degrades long before you use up its absorption capacity, and the cost of replacing a cassette is not small.

The second pitfall is artisanal cheap stuff, pos. 2. They take an “alternative” bio-toilet bowl (see below) cheaper, build a booth around it. Then - rapid degradation, smell, changing the cartridge for your own. The miser pays twice, as always. If we take a one-piece dry closet, then it is a country-household one, pos. 3. These are cheaper due to a smaller resource for drains, it is designed for a family.

The same applies to the bio-toilets themselves. High-capacity public, able to work on both microflora and chemistry, pos. 4, are expensive and include everything that has been said about ready-made dry closets. There are special country bio-toilets on sale, pos. 5, cheaper and designed for families. But it’s not water that can be poured into their tank (it immediately deteriorates), but a special liquid supplied to the flush literally in drops, so you need to find out how it is washed off and how much the flush costs.

Bucket toilets for summer cottages (pos. 6) come with replaceable cartridges designed for 3-5 people and 2-5 days; this is not the worst option for giving a weekend. But there are also conditionally disposable chemical ones, they are intended for traveling work, various kinds of field trips, etc. As a rule, they are rented, and when the absorber is depleted or when they return home, they are given for refueling.

Another “bio-dachny” option is a toilet bowl with a separate cartridge, pos. 7. Much cheaper than a finished toilet. Having made the cabin to your liking or buying it separately, you can get a completely hygienic room that everyone needs, pos. 8. For a dacha, this is perhaps the best option today: the cost of a toilet bowl and changing cartridges for a long time is less than a zero cycle and a cesspool for a booth.

Note: Nevertheless, a significant circumstance prevents the widespread use of dry closets - bacteria designed for small cartridges are unable to accept gray waste. Therefore, for a dacha inhabited from spring to autumn, it is still better to recommend a deaf cesspool, treated with bacteria that are not so effective and require more living space, but are omnivores.

And about design

The fact that the design follows from the functionality and should not go to the detriment of it is an elementary truth. However, the functionality of the toilet is unsightly, and this is not a complex. All living things are vulnerable when performing natural needs. Shame is just a manifestation of the instinct of self-preservation. The reproductive instinct may overpower him, but urination and defecation are not intercourse. Therefore, in the design of the toilet, you need to know very well and carefully observe the measure.

For example, you don’t need to force the toilet to repeat: “No, I’m not a toilet!”, As in pos. 1-3 fig. It's clumsily done or with high skill, it doesn't matter. You get something like an excuse for a certain character: “Boss, I didn’t steal a green crocodile lop with 185 bucks and 50 cents and a photo of a 30-year-old blonde with a school-age boy!” What followed: “And I, you sloppy cormorant, did I tell you which wallet was stolen?” Since the cabin is striking, what a secrecy of departure.

Pos. 4-6 illustrate a generally legitimate approach - disguise. We will modestly keep silent about our essence, and whoever needs it will show it or find it on its own. There is scope for design delights, but only with great experience, taste and ability to work. Otherwise, something like pos. 7-9, at the sight of which both the designer and the psychiatrist agree on one thing: this is not design.

When designing a toilet, it is best to remember: what is natural is not ugly, even if it cannot be flaunted. Specifically, natural disguise for this need: vegetation, stone, pos. 10-12. Rustic primitivism and phytodesign are by no means at enmity, pos. 11. But since the booth is larger than a person and the view from it is worse, it is advisable to place a booth of simple natural forms among the trees, pos. 10. Or, as usual in bushes, hide among small phytoforms so that it is not visible, pos. 12. In this case, this is the most natural and, therefore, the best technique. And the most hygienic.