Ground concrete floor. How to pour a concrete floor in a private house? How to fill an earthen floor with concrete

If the owner decides whether how to make concrete floors in a private house, he must know that such a coating is arranged exclusively on the ground. It is very difficult to provide absolute waterproofing of the surface, therefore, with a high occurrence of groundwater, it is better to refuse such a technology.

For a high-quality study of the coating, the master must understand what it consists of. This will help to comply with the stages of work, take into account soil movements, temperature fluctuations, shrinkage, and so on. The structure of concrete floors (SNiP) is presented in tabular data.

You can check the degree of tamping with a simple old-fashioned method - no traces of the worker should remain on the surface.

Concrete floor installation on the ground

How to pour a concrete floor in a private house? It can be seen from the structure of the coating that the first stage of work is carried out on soils. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• loams and sandy loams are leveled and primed;
• if the soil layer is represented by chernozem, it is selected to a dense base;
• the soil is rammed to strengthen it. For work, you can use improvised means. The simplest device can be built from a piece of timber, to which a handle made of a smooth bar is screwed.

Sand:

• it is permissible to use river or quarry material;
• fraction (particle size) and purity of sand are not critical;
• to ensure maximum shrinkage, the sand cushion is rammed or filled with a large volume of water;
• the thickness of the finished layer should be 10.0-15.0 cm.

Rubble:

• it is advisable to use a fraction of 30.0-50.0 mm;
• crushed stone of sedimentary rocks showed itself poorly in practice (shell rock / limestone). The material shrinks heavily under load and has low mechanical strength;
• the thickness of the finished layer is 10.0-15.0 cm.

Waterproofing:

• it is enough to purchase good high-density polyethylene;
• such a density will not allow the waterproofing to break on the sharp edges of the gravel under the mass of the rough screed;
• the amount of material is determined based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room;
• waterproofing is laid out with an overlap, all joints are treated with adhesive tape.

Rough screed:

• it is advisable to use concrete grade M100;
• it is recommended to purchase cement M400 and prepare a working concrete solution for floor screed in a ratio of 1: 4.60: 7.0, (C / P / S);
• reinforcement is not necessary;
• the finished layer is laid and leveled.

Polyethylene and roofing material are the cheapest materials. If the house is intended for permanent residence, it is better to use professional roll materials or hydroglass

Insulation:

• the material must be characterized by high compressive strength;
• a good choice may be extruded polystyrene foam or foam with a density of C-35;
• layer thickness is directly dependent on climatic conditions. If work is carried out in the Far East and the Far North, a value equal to 150 mm is taken, in the middle lane - 100.0 mm, in the south - 50.0 mm or less. These indicators are relevant for polystyrene, if the master uses polystyrene foam, the values ​​\u200b\u200bare reduced by 1.2 / 1.5 times.

To evaluate the effectiveness of extruded polystyrene foam, you can take a look at the presented table.

Second waterproofing:

• you can use the same polyethylene or roofing material, which is laid in two layers;
• the edges of the material are bent up and separate the screed from the walls;
• to prevent the transmission of acoustic vibrations, a thin strip of insulation should be used.

Finishing screed:

• reinforcement is carried out, the basis of the frame is a galvanized steel mesh. It is more expensive, but more reliable;
• optimal wire thickness - 5.0-6.0 mm;
• reinforcement cell - 10 * 15 cm;
• reinforcement is laid out on stands 1.50-5.0 cm;
• lighthouses are installed;
• the working solution is mixed. Grade of concrete for the floor on the ground M200. The proportions of concrete for pouring the floor are as follows - 1.0: 2.80: 4.80 (C / P / SH);
• thickness of the finished layer - 8.0-10.0 cm;
• the coating is processed with a deep vibrator and leveled;
• subsequently pouring concrete floors can be reinforced with special compounds.

A neatly made finishing screed can become a ready-made base for flooring.

After setting the screed, shrink joints are implemented. To a depth of 1/4 or 1/3 of the thickness of the finishing screed, concrete is cut into squares of 3 * 3 m. It is advisable to work with reinforced concrete with diamond wheels, which will leave ideal cut edges. Alternatively, when pouring into the surface layer, you can lay demarcation rails.

How to pour concrete floor evenly

How to fill the floor with concrete? To facilitate your work on the surface, it is recommended to apply special markings. The area is divided into segments of 1.50-2.0 m, beacons are fixed on guides. The top edge of the guides must pass strictly along the zero markup level.

Filling the floor with concrete is carried out from the far corner, the master should gradually move forward. The solution is poured quickly, according to the intended areas. The laid layer is vibrated and leveled by the rule. The rule is pulled back, holding the tool at one angle.

Concrete floors with hardened top layer

It is advisable to equip such a coating when the finished surface is subject to active use and high loads, for example, in garages. This stage eliminates the premature repair of the concrete floor.

Hardening is carried out using topping - a special dry mix, which is recessed into the concrete surface.

Standard composition of the mixture:

• Portland cement high grade;
• solid filler;
• plasticizing additives.

Sequencing:

• work is carried out 5-6 hours later (on average) after pouring the finishing screed, when the concrete gains optimal plastic strength;
• the coating is processed by a smoothing machine, which is called a "helicopter";
• 2/3 of the mixture is evenly distributed over the coating;
• when the mixture darkens, that is, it absorbs a sufficient amount of moisture, it is rubbed into the concrete, for which special equipment is used. The topping must penetrate the structure of the concrete;
• after grouting, the remaining 1/3 of the mixture is unloaded onto the surface, with the help of which possible irregularities of the previous layer are leveled, the purpose of this stage is to create a perfectly even and smooth surface;
• the coating can be treated with a special varnish, which will prevent premature loss of moisture.

Regardless of the choice of hardening composition, finishing grinding must be implemented. A perfect finish can only be obtained with the use of professional power trowels.

Use of polymer coating

The polymer composition is applied to the floors of concrete bulk in three layers, each of which is aged for about 6 hours. Before work, it is necessary to check the moisture content of the concrete. If this figure exceeds 4%, a primer is applied to the base.

Concrete floor impregnation can be synthesized on an inorganic (fluate) or organic basis (epoxy, polyurethane, acrylic). Similar compositions are successfully used to restore worn-out concrete pavements. Manufacturers suggest using polymer impregnating compounds - sealers - to strengthen and prevent dust formation.

Concrete for the floor - this is the material that allows you to get a strong and reliable coating with a moderate level of financial costs.

The device of a concrete self-leveling floor on the ground is shown in the video:

In the process of erecting and equipping basements, garages, various outbuildings, and sometimes even residential premises (of course, in regions with a warm mild climate), developers often prefer technology that involves laying a concrete floor on the ground.

After reviewing the information below, you will receive all the necessary information to independently conduct the event in question, refusing to involve third-party craftsmen in this work and significantly saving on the construction of the floor.

Before prioritizing device technology for a given design, review the key soil requirements listed in the following table.

Table. Soil requirements for a reliable concrete floor

Additionally, requirements are made directly to the building itself. It is important that the house is used for permanent residence or at least heated during the cold season. Otherwise, the ground will freeze, causing the concrete structure to deform.

Scheme of floors on the ground for a private house, garage, utility room

Concrete flooring technology on the ground

We do the floor after the completion of the construction of the walls and the arrangement of the roof / ceiling. Direct work on the arrangement of the structure under consideration on the ground consists of several technological stages, the sequence of which is given below.

First step. Marking the floor level

First we need to set the zero level of the future floor. To do this, we do the following:

Second phase. Clearing and compacting the soil

We proceed to the stage of preliminary preparation of the soil. First we need to get rid of construction debris, if any. Next, we remove the top ball of soil. Traditionally, a multilayer concrete floor structure has a thickness of about 30-35 cm. We dig until the distance between the previously laid zero level line and the bottom of the pit reaches the specified value.

After that, we need to tamp and level the surface. The best tool for this work is a special vibrating plate for tamping the soil. In the absence of such, we take a simple log, nail strong handles on top of it, nail a board from below and use the resulting device to compact the soil. We work until we get a fairly dense and even base. Special checks are not required: it is enough to walk on the ground and, if there are no indentations from the legs in it, we proceed to the next stage of work.

Manual digging is never perfectly accurate. If the depth of the pit turned out to be more than the required thickness of the future concrete structure, we fill the difference with a layer of sand and carefully compact it.

Useful advice! You can use another solution to the above problem, first laying a layer of clay, spilling it with water, tamping it, filling it with sand and further compacting it. Such a system will provide additional waterproofing of the future concrete structure, preventing groundwater from penetrating into its structure.

Third stage. We make backfill

We fall asleep a 5-10 cm layer of gravel. We spill the backfill with water and thoroughly tamp. For greater convenience, we can pre-drive several rows of rebar trims or other similar material of the required length into the ground - this will make it easier for us to provide the required backfill height. It is important that the trimmings are set strictly according to the level. After arranging each planned layer, the pegs can be removed.

On top of the gravel, we pour about a 10-centimeter layer of sand. The pegs from the previous stage will help us control the thickness of the backfill. To carry out this event, it is not necessary to use sifted material - even ravine sand with minor impurities will do. The sand is also thoroughly tamped.

On top of the sand we fall asleep a layer of gravel. The material of a fraction of 4-5 cm is optimally suited. We compact the crushed stone. We pour a thin layer of sand on top, carefully level it and thoroughly tamp it down. If gravel with sharply protruding edges is found, we remove it or shift it so that there are no sharp corners throughout the plane.

Important! Each layer of backfill must be level. Similar requirements are imposed on the layers of the “pie” that are further equipped.

Fourth stage. We install moisture and heat insulating materials

To protect concrete from the harmful effects of moisture, we use a special waterproofing membrane or an ordinary polyethylene film. Optimally suitable material with a thickness of 200 microns. The work is carried out in an extremely simple sequence: we lay out the film on the base, bringing its edges a couple of centimeters above the zero level indicated in the previous stages, we lay the insulation sheets directly with a 10-15 cm overlap, and fix the joints with adhesive tape.

The structure can be insulated using a wide variety of materials, here is just a short list:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool boards;
• Styrofoam;
• roll isolon, etc.

We lay the selected material, following the provisions of the relevant technology, and proceed to further work.

Fifth stage. We equip the reinforcing layer

The multilayer concrete structure is subject to mandatory reinforcement. We strengthen the floor with PVC or metal mesh to choose from. Also, metal wire and reinforcement bars are well suited for solving this problem. They must first be tied into a grid (we select the size of the cells in accordance with the expected loads: for high ones we take 10x10 cm, for medium ones - 15x15 cm, for low ones 20x20 cm will be enough), using flexible steel wire to fasten the joints.

The reinforcing frame is laid on pre-installed stands having a height of about 20-30 mm.

Important note! In the case of hardening with the use of a plastic mesh, the material is stretched over pegs previously driven into the base.

Sixth stage. We mount guides and formwork

Proper pouring of concrete mix at zero level is impossible without the use of guides. We do the following:

Important! Before proceeding to the next stage of work, be sure to check the correct installation of the guides and formwork using a level. If there are differences, you simply cannot make a flat floor. To eliminate irregularities, it is enough to cut off the protruding places. You can raise the guides in the right places by placing bars of a suitable size under them or the same plywood.

Before pouring, be sure to treat wooden elements with special oil. Thanks to this, in the future we will be able to get the boards out of the solution without any difficulty.

Seventh stage. Pouring concrete and making a screed

We fill the previously created "maps" with concrete mortar. If possible, we try to fill the entire mass at a time - so we get the most durable monolithic structure. If there is no possibility or desire to order ready-made concrete, we make it ourselves.

Pouring concrete on lighthouses (option without maps)

To do this, we need a concrete mixer or a large suitable container for manual mixing, cement (we use material grades M400-500), a shovel, gravel, sand. We work according to the following recipe: 1 share of cement, 2 shares of sand, 4 shares of gravel and about 0.5 shares of water (it can change, we are guided in the process of work). Thoroughly mix the ingredients until a homogeneous mixture and proceed to further work.

It is most convenient to pour from the corner opposite to the front door - in this case, you do not have to walk on concrete. We pour several cards in 1, maximum 2 doses, level the solution and stretch the mixture. If there is a special vibrator, we use it to compact the mixture.

Formwork around pipelines

Having filled in several "cards", we proceed to leveling the base. A two-meter (possibly longer) rule will help us with this. We install the tool on the previously mounted guides and pull it towards us. So we get rid of excess concrete.

We take out guides and formwork from the processed “cards” (specialists usually do this a day after pouring, some earlier, we focus on the situation). In a similar sequence, we fill the entire site with concrete. After that, cover the base with plastic wrap and leave for a month to gain strength. During the drying process, the concrete structure must be regularly moistened with water so that it does not crack.

In conclusion, it remains for us to fill the screed. To do this, we use a special self-leveling mixture - the most convenient option, the arrangement of which does not require special knowledge and effort.

The leveling mixture will eliminate minor surface imperfections and allow you to get a perfectly even base. We traditionally start working from the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.

We prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions, pour it on the floor and evenly distribute it over the surface using a long rule or other suitable tool. We specify the drying time of the mixture in the instructions, usually it is 2-3 days.

The concrete floor on the ground is ready. We just have to lay the selected flooring. Thanks to a properly equipped flat base, the finish will look beautiful and last as long as possible.

Now you know everything about the construction of a concrete floor on the ground and will be able to independently carry out the necessary activities. You just need to follow the guide and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Construction of a concrete floor on the ground

With the independent construction of a country house or a bathhouse on a strip foundation, in areas with a low groundwater level, it makes sense to make a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands . This technology is the fastest, most economical and eliminates the need for special equipment.

In addition, such a floor construction has a higher reliability and durability than floors on the ground without concrete, and does not require additional maintenance during operation.

Features of laying the floor on the ground

In order to study this issue in detail, this article will consider the installation of a concrete floor on the ground in residential buildings with a strip foundation.

In addition, the reader will be offered a detailed instruction, which presents the technology of a concrete floor on the ground with a step-by-step description of the implementation of all technological stages of construction.

Stage 1: preparatory work

It is recommended to start work on arranging the floor after the walls of the building are erected, window and door openings are closed and the roof is installed, and the average daily ambient temperature does not fall below + 5 ° С.

Before pouring the concrete floor onto the ground, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion:

1. Clear the area of ​​land within the boundaries of the foundation from construction debris and remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 200-300 mm. Compact the surface of the earth with a hand rammer or a vibrating plate.
2. Make markings along the inner perimeter of the walls of the building, outlining the zero mark of the subfloor. Using a hydraulic level, check that the zero mark is at the same height in all rooms.
3. Fill the compacted soil with sand and gravel, which consists of a layer of gravel, 50 mm thick and a layer of sand, 100-150 mm thick.
4. Moisten the surface of the pillow with plenty of water., compact, then pour a thin layer of crushed stone with a particle fraction of 40-60 mm.
5. Sprinkle lightly with sand then moisten with water and tamp again.

Note!

When backfilling a sand and gravel cushion, it is necessary to control using the building level so that all layers of the backfill are strictly parallel to the horizon.

Stage 2: pouring a monolithic slab

The next stage of construction is the manufacture of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which will perform load-bearing functions and take on all the main load on the floor. For this reason, it must be reinforced with steel mesh, and its thickness must be at least 80-100 mm.

1. Waterproofing. Lay waterproofing from a thick polyethylene film on a sand and gravel cushion so that it goes onto the walls to a height of at least 500 mm.
2. Reinforcing strapping. On low spacers, lay a metal reinforcing mesh on the floor so that at the joints it has an overlap of at least 100 mm.
3. fill concrete. Prepare a concrete solution and evenly distribute it over the entire area of ​​​​the room with a layer of at least 80 mm thick.
4. alignment surfaces. Using a level, by measuring the distance to the marks of the finished floor, check that the filled surface is strictly horizontal.

After the mortar has set, the surface must be left for at least one week until the concrete has completely cured. Diamond drilling of holes in concrete using a special power tool.

Note!

It is recommended to lay all engineering communications before pouring the slab, however, if this has not been done in advance, it can be used in the future.but cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels after solidification of the monolith.

Stage 3: insulation and waterproofing

The concrete floor, in contact with the ground, is a source of moisture and cold penetration, therefore, to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house, thorough heat and waterproofing of the concrete floor on the ground is necessary.

Water-repellent materials and insulation are stacked in several layers:

1. As a waterproofing, you can use a thick plastic film, but it is best to cover the surface of the monolithic slab with a layer of liquid hot bitumen.
2. Thermal insulation can be done in two ways: In the first case, a layer of blast-furnace slag or expanded clay with a thickness of 100-200 mm is poured over the entire surface of the slab, but this material is hygroscopic and can absorb moisture.
3. The second option is considered more acceptable. and consists in laying plates of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) with a thickness of 50-100 mm on the floor.
4. Expanded clay filling should be distributed evenly, and lay the XPS boards tightly, without gaps, on the floor and secure with dowels with wide plastic washers.
5. Another layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the insulation from a thick polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns, on top of which a reinforcing mesh is laid.

Note!

floodingconcrete floor in the garage on the ground,you can do without thermal insulation, but high-quality waterproofing must be performed in any case.

Stage 4: installation of concrete screed

The finishing screed is used to evenly distribute the load and lay the finishing floor covering (ceramic tiles, linoleum, laminate), so it must have the same thickness and a smooth, uniform surface. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of this stage of work, because the cost of rework, in the event of a technology violation, may be too high.

How to pour concrete screed:

1. Installation of beacons. Using cement or gypsum mortar over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other, install guide rails beacons that determine the upper level of the subfloor.
2. Solution pouring. Starting from the far corner of the room, fill each section of the floor, evenly distributing the cement-sand mortar over the entire surface of the filled area.
3. Surface leveling. To do this, you need to use a metal or wooden rule, moving it with vibrating movements along the guide beacons.
4. Floor screed. Thus, when moving from one section to another, it is necessary to fill the entire room, which is recommended to be completed in one working day.
5. Crack grouting. After the mortar has set, it is necessary to remove the beacon guides, and wipe the resulting cracks with a fresh cement-sand mortar.

Upon completion of this operation, the room must be left for several days until the final hardening and drying of the cement mortar. After 2-3 weeks, the floor surface must be primed. For this purpose, it is best to use an epoxy or polyurethane primer for concrete, which must be applied using a construction roller.

• In paragraph 1, the recipe for the manufacture of a cement-sand mortar for a finishing screed is indicated.
• In paragraph 2, the recipe for the manufacture of a concrete solution for pouring a monolithic slab is indicated.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it becomes clear that the independent production of a concrete floor in a country house is quite within the power of almost any home master.

For more information on this issue, you can watch the video in this article or read similar materials on our site. I am ready to answer all your questions in the comments.

Strip foundation, lack of a basement, low groundwater level - these conditions are enough to choose ground concrete floors in a private house.

To call such a solution simple and easy it is forbidden, but it allows you to save money due to the absence of floor slabs and reduce the load on the basement unit (therefore, the foundation can be made “lighter”).

Floors on the ground: starting with the protection of the foundation

Most sources cite as a mandatory requirement the occurrence of groundwater no higher than 4-5 meters(sometimes even two). And this is the level of occurrence top water, which is seasonal and located above water-resistant layers. That is, these are ordinary sedimentary waters that did not have time to seep into lower and permanent aquifers (“on sand” and “on lime”).

Summer and winter perch disappears and reappears in spring and autumn. Even if the site is located in the “critical” zone, then it can be effectively dealt with (if it is not infiltration water seeping through the ground from a nearby reservoir).

The first condition for preventing flooding with perch water is drainage.

It is necessary to "help" the sedimentary water to penetrate through the layers of soil that have water-resistant properties (loam). These measures are fundamental for such areas, even from the point of view of protecting the foundation during the rainy season and snowmelt. It is not difficult to do this - several wells are drilled along the perimeter of the house with a diameter of up to 15 cm and a depth below the heel of the foundation.

Then a drainage pipe is inserted just below the ground level (it is better to wrap it with a filter cloth - this will prevent it from silting) and crushed stone of a fine fraction is poured inside. The hole is covered with waterproof materials, covered with earth from above or covered with a piece of turf.

There is a more complex option with the arrangement of trenches, in which the same pipes are laid on a pillow of sand and gravel and brought down to a drainage well.

The second condition is foundation waterproofing.

In conditions of pressure exposure to water, the most effective will be a combination of several methods.

First, the outer walls of the base are treated with a bituminous primer, and rolled materials are glued onto it. The correct technique is a horizontal arrangement from the bottom up, overlapping, but a simpler one is vertical.

Bonding occurs due to heating the inside of the sheet with a blowtorch. They protect the waterproofing with a clay castle, which itself serves as a barrier to water. If the impact of perched water is short-lived, and the precipitation in the region is not abundant, then you can limit yourself to coating waterproofing.

And of course, to the mandatory measures to protect against water, it is necessary to add a blind area (20 cm wider than the projection of the edge of the roof) and a drainage system.

Floors on the ground: foundation for a concrete floor on the ground

In principle, flooring on the ground is a common technology for basements, basements, outbuildings (sheds, garages). A significant difference can only be the device of a “warm” floor in a screed, and the arrangement of a reliable foundation, waterproofing and passive insulation is carried out in any case. Floors on the ground

No matter how reliable the waterproofing of the foundation and drainage measures are, the soil has its own moisture, and water can rise up through natural capillaries. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the floor from these factors as well.

In the context of the floor device on the ground is a multilayer cake.

The basis for the entire structure should be a flat and dense area without vegetation residues, root system and construction debris. The “reference point” for determining the volume of earthworks is taken at the threshold level.

The thickness of the finishing coating and the thickness of all layers of the concrete floor on the ground are subtracted from it (it is only the base for residential premises).

After the site is cleared and leveled, its base must be compacted. The simplest "rammer" is a log cutter with a transverse handle, a more modern way is a vibration machine.

Floors on the ground: to improve the insulating properties

the next layer can be done from clay. For wells, a clay castle thickness of at least 20 cm is recommended, for artificial reservoirs 8-12 cm, the same parameters are chosen for adobe floors, but here you can limit yourself to a more modest value of 5-6 cm.

The next layer is sand. Many, by inertia, advise choosing river or washed seeded sand, but this is redundant - ordinary quarry sand is suitable for a pillow (this is not concrete production and clay impurities do not affect strength characteristics). This layer is watered and compacted.

Then a layer of crushed stone of medium or fine fraction is poured. It interrupts the capillary rise of water from the ground. He is also rammed.

The thickness of each layer is usually chosen from 5 to 10 cm, with a total size of up to 20 cm.

It is possible to use expanded clay (it is a good bulk heat-insulating material), but this is only if the possibility of water ingress is excluded - it swells under its influence. For dry soils, you can limit yourself to only a pillow of sand, but for the floor in the basement, it is permissible to use a pillow of two layers of crushed stone - first a large fraction, and then a fine one.

A dense plastic film is laid on top of the rubble with a stop on the walls.

It serves not for waterproofing, but as a necessary condition for the correct hydration of the first layer of concrete.

First pour lean concrete, which does not perform load-bearing functions, but serves as the basis for waterproofing and laying thermal insulation materials. Builders call it "concrete" or "rolled" (it fits easily). The percentage of cement in it is usually less than 2 times due to increasing the proportion of filler- for example, instead of the ratio 1:3:3 (cement, sand, crushed stone), the proportions 1:3:6 are used.

Since this layer is not taken into account when ensuring the overall strength of the concrete floor for a private house, its reinforcement is not necessary.

A layer of 6-8 cm is enough.

Important! In the manufacture of concrete, river or washed sand should be used.

After pouring, the concrete must be compacted and leveled. Jewelry accuracy, as for a screed, is not necessary, but alignment with beacons is necessary for high-quality laying of slab insulation. Floors on the ground

Then a break is needed for the concrete to gain strength. The first week is very important - for hardening (hydration) of the solution, it is necessary to create a high level of humidity. That is why a film is needed at the base - so that water does not go into the sand and gravel, does not soak into the walls. Periodically, the surface is moistened with water. Better yet, cover with wet burlap. Ideally (at a temperature of 20°C and normal humidity), concrete gains 70% of its design strength in the first 7 days, and 100% in four weeks.

To continue the work, it is enough to withstand a week.

When using hardening accelerator modifiers, 3 days are enough (sometimes even one day, but such additives ultimately significantly affect the quality of the concrete stone).

Floors on the ground: waterproofing.

It is mandatory for the first floors, especially in floor conditions on the ground. The use of polyethylene (of any density) is best left for the floors of city apartments (and even then not in the bathroom or in the kitchen). The right choice is rolled insulation with bituminous impregnation.

The surface cleaned of dust is treated with a bituminous primer (primer), and roofing material (or one of its analogues) is laid on top. They do this in two layers, with the seams offset (filling them with bitumen) and reaching the walls above the floor level.

At this stage, the preparation of the base for insulation and pouring the screed ends.

Concrete floor on the ground: floor insulation

To insulate a concrete floor, three options are most often used - expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam.

As already noted, only with reliable waterproofing is it possible to use expanded clay - when moisture gets in, it swells. The thickness of the layer can vary between 10-20 cm.

Foam insulation is best done in two layers, each of which should be displaced in relation to each other. It is desirable to offset the seams between the rows. This will increase the strength of the insulation layer itself, and, as a result, the screed - if the seams coincide, the risk of cracks in this place increases. Styrofoam sheets should be fitted as tightly as possible to each other, and it is best to use foam with ends that have a tongue-and-groove profile.

Treat joints with adhesive.

The EPPS insulation technology is the same as for polystyrene foam. The material differs in its high compressive strength and the almost complete absence of water absorption (it itself is a good waterproofing material).

Important! Floor insulation is effective if the basement is insulated.

Floors on the ground: screed

Filling the floor on the ground ends with a screed. Then it remains to lay the finishing layer: wooden floors, laminate, linoleum, etc.

Although for service premises (garage, basement, pantry) it is possible to make topping of the concrete surface at the pouring stage (this significantly increases strength and prevents dusting).

The screed over the insulation must necessarily have reinforcement.

For residential premises with small surface loads, it is sufficient to install a road mesh with a link size of 10 × 10 cm and a wire thickness of 3-4 mm.

You can use galvanized steel mesh, but polymer

or composite

behaves better in the alkaline environment of concrete, as well as .

The mesh is not fastened to the walls, but a compensation gap of at least 20 mm is left. You can use a block of wood or scraps of foam, which are then removed, and the gap is filled with an elastic sealant.

The laying of the mesh overlaps in two cells, the fastening between the sheets is made with wire.

Floors on the ground: reinforcement

runs at some distance from the floor surface (approximately 1/3-1/2 layers of screed). To do this, you can use pieces of brick or gravel, plastic bottle caps or special coasters.

The thickness of the screed for residential premises must be at least 50 mm.

Both types of concrete (cement-sand) screed can be used - classic or semi-dry.

In order for you to personally pour the concrete floor in a private house or in the country, you do not need to be a professional builder or have special skills in this matter. The main thing is to properly prepare by purchasing the necessary consumables, as well as calculate their required amount. In this case, you will facilitate your task, and the filling processes will be as efficient and simple as possible. It must be remembered that a flat concrete floor is considered to be a floor that has the best base for flooring (ceramic tiles, parquet, linoleum and others).

How to fill the floors in a private house or in the country and what is needed for this?

We fill the floors in the house photo

You will need to prepare or purchase the following tools and materials: vibrating rammer, a certain amount of roofing material, polyethylene film, expanded clay, foam boards, reinforced mesh, restrictive corners, level, shovels, trowels.

First, prepare the desired surface for your floor. Remove the top layers of soil to the required depth. Make the area as flat as possible. Then tamp it with a rammer with gravel or pieces of broken brick. If you have not been able to get such a tool, and the required surface is not large, then do this work manually.

Your next task will be an isolation device. The best material for this work is roofing material. If you want to get the job done at the lowest cost and be sure that groundwater is far from your floor, then you can simply put a few layers of polyethylene. Here everything will depend on your personal desire and material solvency.

After you make the insulation, start laying the heat-insulating material. It can be expanded clay or foam boards. This type of material is already old, but in terms of the functions of this material, not many will argue with it. Also for this work, you can use ordinary glass wool. When insulating the floor, correctly calculate the amount of consumables so that floor insulation does not cost you too much.

Having insulated the floor, proceed to the very pouring of concrete on the floor. Start pouring it in the far corner of the room, moving a little towards the doors. In this work, use a limit rail set in advance in the level. At this stage of work, it is very important that the last layer of the floor be reinforced with a metal frame. You can use an ordinary chain-link mesh as reinforcement. The last layer will thus become resistant to various possible impacts.

Your final step will be a neat screed with pure cement diluted with water. You can buy a self-levelling compound for this job.