In our electronic catalog there is a do-it-yourself folding bed from leading Italian manufacturers. Wardrobe bed: drawings, diagrams, DIY assembly instructions Bed transformer dimensions diagram

Any sane man can make a wardrobe-bed with his own hands

• Necessary tool for making a wardrobe-bed
• Furniture fittings store
• Detail of the wardrobe-bed
• Required fittings
• Assembling the wardrobe bed

The lack of space in modern apartments leads in topics for jokes along with Chapaev and mother-in-law. The fourth generation of storytellers cover up gaps in communal arrangements with laughter. A separate refrain is the cramped kitchens and spending the night on the floor during the visit of relatives from the village. One of the ways out in the search for compact beds is the sofa bed option, but in terms of comfort it simply does not reach a comfortable orthopedic mattress. The best option for both a combined bedroom-living room and a children's room would be a wardrobe bed. Finding a suitable one in a store is virtually unrealistic, so we will make a wardrobe bed with our own hands.

The list in this section is the same for almost all such enterprises. But there are nuances, so be careful.

• Perforator with a drill of at least 10 mm in diameter. Since the lever of effort in the lifting structure is very large, fastening to the wall must be as reliable as possible. No plastic or wood dowels. Only anchor fastenings, with a diameter of 10-12 and a length of at least 80 mm.
• Drill driver with a chuck up to 12 mm and a set of bits, including the obligatory hexagon for confirmations.
• Roulette.
• Construction right angle with a measuring ruler up to 400 mm.
• Level, over 500 mm long.
• Drills for wood, diameter 5 and 8 mm. They are sold in sets and individually.
• Perovoye drill with a diameter of 18-20 mm.
• Iron, pencil, fine sandpaper, dry cloth.
• An adjustable wrench or a set of regular car keys.

Note: If you do not understand the terms used here and below, look at their meaning before getting down to business. Encyclopedic knowledge in other areas will not help to explain to the seller of a specialty store.

Furniture fittings store

To make a transformer bed with your own hands, you need to contact a specialized store. You will not be able to buy the necessary spare parts in the usual household, as well as correctly, “cleanly” cut chipboard at home. Just look at the attached drawings to understand the seriousness of the mechanism. But you should not be afraid - each kit is accompanied by an installation diagram, which even an entomologist will understand, not to mention an ordinary sane man. Subject to the dimensions of the parts, you do not have to worry about the reliability of the mechanism.

Detail of the wardrobe-bed

The scheme and dimensions are indicated for a chipboard thickness of 18 mm, processed with a 0.5 mm thick melamine edge. The dimensions of the orthopedic mattress are provided as 2000x1600x220 mm. The design itself is designed for a mattress with a metal main frame - such are used for the manufacture of beds with a lifting bed of the "ottoman" type.

The floor and walls must be at least approximately even (with a delta of no more than 5 mm per meter of length), otherwise the entire structure will loosen, breaking the fasteners.

• 2282x420 - 2 pieces, cabinet sides.
• 1695x420 - 2 pieces, top and bottom of the cabinet.
• 1685x2235 - front panel. As a rule, it is made one and only after that it is decorated with overhead elements that visually “divide” the plane into several false doors.
• 2038x150 - 2 pieces, sidewalls of the strapping of the mattress frame.
• 1605x150 - 2 pcs., front and rear of the frame binding.
• 1690x350 - 2 pieces, stiffeners. Since the cabinet box is assembled without a back wall, one of them will serve as a headboard.

When ordering parts, you must choose the edging option: either the sawing company glues them for a fee, or you do it yourself.

In the latter case, the self-adhesive edge is applied to the end of the part with the adhesive side down and ironed with an iron heated to 3/4 power. After that, it is necessary to immediately hold it several times with a dry cloth in order to press it properly. Carefully cut off the excess edge and clean the chamfers with sandpaper.

Required fittings

It is better to print out the drawings of the lifting mechanism and take it with you to the hardware store - it will be more correct.

The selection of the force of the gas springs is indicated in the table in the figure.

In addition, you will need:

• Confirmations 5x70. In this case, it is better to buy them not in a package, but by the piece, 30 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 4x16.
• Self-tapping screws 4x30.
• Furniture corners 20x20 mm, 10 pcs.
• Metal corners, reinforced 60x60. Since the upper ones will be visible, we recommend choosing forged ones. They are more aesthetic.
• Anchor fixture. It was said about him above, 10x80 mm.
• Furniture handles, at least 160 mm long - for easy grip.
• Layout or other elements of facade decoration. Ready-made ones are sold in building markets, glued to the facade with superglue.

It remains to find out the main thing: how to make a wardrobe bed with your own hands.

Assembling the wardrobe bed

The top, bottom and stiffeners of the cabinet are drilled into the end with a 5 mm drill, the sidewalls are drilled into a plane with a diameter of 8 mm. That is, the sidewalls are overhead parts, and the rest are internal. The box is pulled together with confirmations and placed in the chosen place. Reinforced corners attached to the wall with anchor bolts.

Attention! Before installing to the wall, it is necessary to accurately measure the verticality of the sidewalls and the right angles between them and the horizontal parts. At the installation site of the box, the plinth will have to be removed.

We carefully mark and install the fixed parts of the opening mechanism on the sidewalls.

By the same principle, the mattress strapping is drilled and assembled. The slats of the orthopedic base are attached to the harness according to the scheme applied by the manufacturer, the reciprocal, movable part of the lifting mechanism is screwed to it. With a spade drill x18 mm, holes for hidden legs are drilled in the upper (with the mechanism raised) part of the strapping.

The delicate part of the work is the fitting and fastening of the front panel. At the slightest deviation, it will stand up crooked, so it is recommended that you first fix it only on four out of ten furniture corners to the outer part of the strapping and carefully measure the gaps. If necessary, correct the position and screw already tightly.

Don't forget to insert the hidden legs into the prepared holes before final assembly of the facade.

Attention! It may seem to some that such a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade is an ideal place for a mirror. However, the mirror is not designed for dynamic loads and, even if it is well fixed, is likely to crack without a rigid frame. In addition - do not overweight the structure.

As you can see, making a wardrobe bed yourself is not so much difficult as unusual for a person who has never been involved in furniture manufacturing. Decorate the facade panel with decorative overlays, choose a place for handles and - a pleasant stay.

Tool

Since the work of assembling the folding structure of bedroom furniture is associated with lumber, the appropriate tool was needed:

• jigsaw;
• perforator;
• saw;
• screwdriver;
• confirmatory drill with a crank;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• screwdrivers;
• wrench set

materials

According to the drawings of the wardrobe-bed with dimensions, I ordered cutting MDF sheets in a furniture workshop. In the same place, I ordered the finishing of the ends of all the details of the assembly of the built-in bed. The bottom of a sleeping bed is also a front wall of a case. I also ordered its production in the furniture workshop.

Details of the vertical cabinet of built-in furniture made of MDF 25 mm:

• side panels 45 x 220 cm - 2 pcs.
• top vertical and horizontal panels 45 x 176 cm - 3 pcs.
• bottom wall 50 x 174 cm - 1 pc.
• supporting horizontal panel 45 x 180 cm - 1 pc.

Details of the built-in sofa from MDF 25 mm:

• side walls 43 x 218 cm.
• transverse walls 43 x 174 cm.
• bottom facade 1760 x 2180 cm.

Other materials:

• lifting mechanism with a swivel leg - 2 sets with fasteners;

• metal corners 50 x 50 - 26 pcs;
• frame dowel 10 x 122 mm - 2 pcs.;
• confirmations 50 mm - 16 pcs.;
• screws 30 mm - 40 pcs.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a wardrobe bed with your own hands

After I brought home the materials and prepared the tool, I started assembling the transformer bed cabinet according to the drawings with my own hands. The work was carried out in stages.

1. On the wall, with a pencil, I marked out the markings for fastening the vertical body of the furniture.
2. At two points, I made holes in the concrete wall with a puncher ø 10 mm 120 mm deep.
3. Through the holes in the corners, I hammered 2 frame dowels into the wall.

1. The vertical body box was assembled from the panels listed in the Materials chapter. In the ends and planes of the mating parts, I drilled holes for the installation of confirmations.
2. Having screwed in the confirmations, he set the case in a vertical position.

1. With screws, I fixed the mounting brackets screwed to the wall.
2. I assembled the bed box, connecting the panels with confirmations.

Cost of materials

At the end of the work, I calculated the costs incurred by me for the manufacture of furniture.

The cost of manufacturing panels for assembling a built-in bed in a closet with your own hands. The area of ​​MDF with a thickness of 25 mm was 11.55 m2:

• side panels 45 x 220 cm - 2 pieces;
• top vertical and horizontal panels 450 x 1740 mm - 3 pcs.;
• bottom wall 50 x 174 cm - 1 pc.;
• supporting horizontal panel 45 x 180 cm - 1 pc.;
• side walls 43 x 218 cm;
• transverse walls 430 x 1760 mm;
• bottom-facade 1760 x 2180 mm;

The total cutting length of MDF sheets is 20 running meters. Finishing the ends - 34 running meters.

The furniture workshop issued an invoice for payment for materials, for work on cutting and trimming panels:

11, 55 m2 x 400 rubles. = 4620 rubles;

20 p.m. x 30 rub. = 600 rubles;

34 p.m. x 5 rub. = 170 rubles.

Total: 5390 rubles.

The cost of other materials was:

• lifting mechanism with a swivel leg - 2 sets with fasteners = 3000 rubles;
• metal corners 50 x 50 - 26 pcs. = 52 rubles;
• frame dowel 10 x 122 mm - 2 pcs. = 16 rubles;
• confirmations 50 mm - 16 pcs. = 20 rubles;
• screws 30 mm - 40 pcs. = 5 rub.

The total cost of materials was: 8483 rubles.

Labor costs

The assembly of the transformer bed cabinet was carried out in 2 days.

Such a scheme for assembling a bed closet with your own hands will cost much less than ordering such furniture. To build such a simple, but responsible structure yourself, you must have experience with the above tool.

• Like

To make a wardrobe bed, you need a drawing. For this, experts recommend using graph paper.

Preparatory work

We make a wardrobe bed using the following tools:

• perforator and drill (diameter 10 mm);
• anchor fastenings (diameter 10-12, and length - more than 80 mm);
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• construction angle;
• level (length over 500 mm);
• iron;
• pencil.

The wardrobe bed is made by hand, using furniture fittings. Installation of such products is easily done by hand. To do this, you must use the scheme included in the hardware kit. Details of future furniture are made of chipboard 18 mm thick.

The material is treated with a melamine edge (thickness 0.5 mm). To do this, the last product is applied to the end of the parts (down with the adhesive side). The iron is heated. The edge is ironed and pressed against the surface with dry material. Cut off excess edges. The chamfer is cleaned with sandpaper. To make a wardrobe bed, you should take into account the parameters of the mattress. The standard dimensions of the last product are 2000x1600x220 mm.

Main works

The manufactured design is designed for a mattress with a metal frame. First you need to decide on the location of the bed cabinet. The floor covering must be even (allowing an error of 5 mm per 1 m of length). Otherwise, the furniture will quickly break. From the components of the product are isolated (mm):

• 2 cabinet sides (2282x420);
• bottom and top (1695x420);
• front side (1685x2235);
• 2 sides of the strapping of the mattress frame (2038x150);
• rear and front frame trim (1605x150);
• 2 stiffeners (1690x350).

When choosing a lifting mechanism, the force of the gas springs is taken into account (see table). To make a wardrobe bed, you will need confirmations (5x70), self-tapping screws (4x16), furniture corners (20x20), facade decor elements.

The stiffeners, the lower and upper parts are drilled into the end with a 5 mm drill. The side elements are equipped with a drill (in the plane) by 8 mm. Confirmations are required to tie the box. The resulting structure is installed in place. The cabinet is attached to the wall with anchor bolts and reinforced corners.

Before installation, measure the verticality of the sides and the right angles between them and the horizontal elements. In the place where the installation of the box is provided, the plinth is dismantled. If the base is connected with a long end, then the resulting furniture is used as a bedside table.

Important Points

The fixed elements of the mechanism are installed on the sides. The mattress frame is installed in the same way. The planks of the orthopedic base are fixed to the strapping using a scheme (from the manufacturer). Then screw the movable part of the bed cabinet. The mechanism rises. At the top of the strapping, holes are made for hidden legs. For this, a feather drill of 18 mm is used.

The parts with which the frame is formed are coated with glue. The pins used to assemble the product must have a rectangular shape. To give the future bed additional strength and reliability, self-tapping screws are screwed into the frame. Before installing the mattress, you will need to mount the limiters. To do this, use a rail with a section of 100x50 mm. Then install the longitudinal crossbar and transverse elements in increments of 50 cm.

The next step is to fit and fasten the front panel. It is preliminarily fixed to the outer part of the harness with the help of 4 furniture corners (out of 10). Then the gaps are measured. Corners are adjusted if necessary. Hidden supports are inserted into the prepared holes.

The panel can be decorated with special overlays. The place of fixation of the handles is chosen independently. The main thing is that the wardrobe bed is easily transformed. Furniture makers recommend buying reliable and high-quality fittings. When choosing it, the force of the gas springs and the weight of the entire structure are taken into account. The last element can be replaced with furniture hinges.

If you are not satisfied with the finished products that are on the shelves in stores, then you can make a mattress with your own hands. For manufacturing, you will need two pieces of foam with a thickness of 125mm. Pieces of materials should differ in density, the upper layer is denser (45 kg / m³), ​​and the lower layer (35 kg / m³). The width and length of the mattress is determined by you. The most common option is two hundred by one hundred and fifty centimeters. On top of the foam filler, a cover of the appropriate size is put on. As a result, you get a great mattress that you made with your own hands.

Materials needed to make a wooden bed with your own hands:

• In order to make the headboards of the back wall and the front wall, you will need three boards measuring 200x30x2 cm.
• For the sidewalls of the bed, two boards measuring 250x30x2 cm.
• Five bars with a section of 4x4 cm and a length of 200 cm - for supporting, supporting and bed legs.
• Thick plywood or a rail measuring 150x4x2 cm for fastening the headboard and for the slatted cover.
• You will also need stain, self-tapping screws, wood glue and varnish.

To make the assembly of the bed with your own hands easy and work well, you will need a product drawing.

The following tools are required for assembly:

• Drill
• Electric jigsaw
• Hacksaw
• Rezik
• screwdriver
• Sandpaper
• Plane
• metal ruler
• square
• Roulette
• Pencil

Having prepared all the details and tools for work, you can start marking and sawing. The main thing is to follow a few basic rules:

• Preparation of a drawing with the exact dimensions of all the necessary details.
• It is necessary to make a list of parts and indicate the required amount of material.
• With a pencil or cutter, you need to apply marking lines for cutting parts.
• To reduce the work time when making the same parts, you can make one and use it as a template for another.
• Using sandpaper, you need to protect the surface of all cuts.

Cut 2 end boards and 2 long boards to size, and assemble them into a rectangle. Secure it all with eyelets and wooden splints. Connections should be in a W-shape. Nests must be cut with a jigsaw or gouged with a chisel. The grooves should be 50mm deep and -20-30mm wide. To fix it, it is necessary to lubricate the lugs with carpentry glue and connect the parts. Using clamps, you need to fix the parts at an angle of 90 degrees, and wait until the glue is completely dry.

The frame of this form is a quality product. This type of construction is an example of a traditional carpentry connection. If it doesn’t work out to make an ear-shaped middle connection, then you can also use a spike fastener to fasten the frame. To do this, you need to take the boards and cut holes in their sides, with a diameter like that of a wooden spike, grease them with glue and assemble them.

The easiest way to assemble the base of a wooden bed is to fasten it with self-tapping screws with additional reinforcement using a metal corner.

Lamellar frame - is a lattice or mesh, the main function of which is to support the mattress. One of the main advantages of this kind of product is that it will not be pressed inward, but will keep its shape and prevent the bed from deforming.

It is necessary to fill the locking rail of the mounting type along the inside of the bed frame, on the sidewalls and end plates. Make a marking 100mm high from the top edge of the workpiece. The rail can be fixed with a dotted or solid strip around the entire perimeter. You can also use a metal corner.

To create a frame from a lamella, a beam with a section of 30x30mm is required. The lamella frame is attached to the inner dimension of the bed frame. We fill the slats on the frame, 150x4x2 cm in size. It is fastened across the entire length in increments of no more than 5-7 cm.

If you adhere to a previously made drawing, then there will be no problems in assembling the bed with your own hands. The finished double bed will serve you for many years. In conclusion, you need to process the frame of the product with sandpaper and varnish on top.

For a beautiful appearance of a wooden bed assembled with your own hands, you need to choose a coating that matches your interior. At the end, it is necessary to carefully sand the frame, soak it with olive oil and cover it with pentaphthalic or oil paint of the color you need.

With the help of a stain, with a brush, the surface of the bed must be given the required tone, this work must be done before varnishing the wood. After the surface has completely dried, you need to apply varnish with a brush, roller or foam swab. The varnish is applied in two layers. After drying, the surface is polished with felt or felt.

For the foot and head, you can purchase decorative paneled tiles. Carved planks are perfect for decorating side boards. Carved wood tiles of the design you want can be bought at the carpentry workshop. This kind of decoration does not weigh down the design of the bed, and is easily attached with small nails, self-tapping screws or glue. As soon as you finish the work, it remains to put the mattress and the wooden double bed is ready for use. Now you know how to make a wooden bed with your own hands. Good luck and easy work!

We make plywood furniture at home according to photos and drawings

Plywood in its structure consists of thin sheets of wood, which are glued together with glue. Before you start making plywood furniture with your own hands, you need to decide on the drawings, according to which the furniture will be assembled. When assembling furniture with your own hands, photos and diagrams of professionals will help.

You will need these tools:

1. Jigsaw.
2. Saw.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Self-tapping screws.
5. Glue.
6. Drill and drills.
7. Pencil.
8. Roulette.
9. Level.

Useful article: How to restore an old chest of drawers with your own hands? Master Class

In a small apartment, a closet bed can be a real salvation. During the day, it does not take up much space, but unfolds only at night. In addition, such transforming furniture is not difficult to make on your own. And if you give free rein to your imagination, then it will combine not only a bed and storage boxes, but also a desk. But before you start assembling this piece of furniture, you need to draw up competent drawings of future furniture.

Drafting

In order to draw up a competent drawing, it is necessary to correctly calculate the dimensions of the future furniture. As a rule, a transformer bed is assembled taking into account the dimensions of a particular room. If you have a narrow but long room at your disposal, then it is wiser to make a tall cabinet. Its central part will be occupied by a folding bed, additional storage spaces can be placed on the sides, and mezzanines can be equipped at the top. Such a design is shown in Fig. one.

If the room is square, then transforming furniture can be more complex. Now in stores you can find modules in which a desk becomes a retractable element, and a bed is located on the 2nd tier.

For self-production, the most difficult part is the mechanism for raising the bed, which is retracted into the closet. The easiest way is to purchase a finished structure, which is sold already assembled. But as a rule, such mechanisms are not cheap.

The way out of the situation may be the acquisition of individual elements of the system and self-assembly of the mechanism. When working, the instructions that manufacturers place in the catalogs of finished furniture will help you. An example of such a drawing is shown in fig. 2.

When drawing up a diagram, you can provide your own dimensions. But make sure that the overall proportions of the product are preserved. Otherwise, the wardrobe bed will not have the expected functionality.

Materials and tools

Transformer furniture is usually made of chipboard, chipboard (laminated surface plate) or carpentry board. It is the latter material that has the greatest durability. But natural wood is more expensive. Therefore, masters prefer to use chipboard. But plywood, even thick enough, is not recommended by experts. Since its service life does not exceed 5-7 years.

In addition to the main material, you will need a timber with a section of 5 * 5 cm and an edged board (1.5 * 5 cm). As fasteners, it is most reasonable to use eurobolts. This type of connection becomes much more reliable than when using self-tapping screws. And knots that do not have a serious load are connected using wooden dowels.

For work, you will definitely need the following tools:

• electric jigsaw or wood saw;
• electric drill and a set of drills;
• screwdriver;
• grinder or a special nozzle for a drill;
• hex keys;
• screwdriwer set.

Do not forget about measuring tools that will help you assemble the wardrobe bed correctly. You will need a centimeter tape measure, a square and a building level. It is wiser to prepare everything you need in advance. This will allow you not to be distracted from work.

Furniture assembly instructions

The wardrobe-bed consists of a body and a mattress pad. The base of the furniture is assembled from 4 blocks and a back panel (for its manufacture, fiberboard or thin plywood is used). In the above drawing, the side walls are 45 * 180 cm, and the top and bottom parts are made 112.5 cm long and 45 cm wide. Do not forget that the bed should be slightly smaller than the body.

The bed table in its design resembles a similar product combined with a wardrobe.

But when assembling such furniture, it must be borne in mind that the berth is not removed inside the case, but turns over. That is, the finished product takes up a lot of space in the room. But the useful area is saved due to the fact that 1 side of this piece of furniture is a sunbed, and the other is a table top. This type of transformer is shown in Fig. 3.

In order to make a table bed, it is necessary to rely on the dimensions of the mattress, which will become the basis of the design. It, like the body, consists of 4 main elements. One of the side panels should be fixed flush with the tabletop, and the rest will serve as the sides of the bench and table at the same time.

The frame of the mattress is closed from below with a detail, which is a tabletop. Therefore, it is more reasonable to cut a blank for it from chipboard. The frame itself is usually assembled from timber. But in this case, the whole structure turns out to be quite cumbersome. The way out of the situation can be the purchase of a ready-made module on elastic ties. In this case, the dimensions of the furniture depend on the size of the mattress pad.

Hallway with your own hands. Stages of work.

Before starting work, prepare tools and materials. Free up your workplace so that nothing interferes with your work on the hallway. Always use flat wooden boards with no visible damage. Check the legibility of the right angle after each fastening. Always pre-drill a hole before using screws. Use glue in combination with screws (confirmed) for a stronger connection. Wipe off adhesive residue thoroughly, as dried glue will not stain when finishing with paint. Always keep safety in mind and have fun. If necessary, ask for help from more experienced friends.

1. Do-it-yourself shoe rack.

Because the hallway is built-in, then the width of the shoe rack will be individual for you. All dimensions in the drawings are in inches. You can convert inches to cm online by typing the query "inches to cm" into google or manually based on the fact that 1 inch is 2.54 cm. The shelf provides space for both low shoes (sneakers, boots, shoes) and for high (boots). Now we are assembling the front part of our shoe rack, we will show how the back closed part is made below.

2. Wall cabinet for the hallway with a hanger.

For small things in the hallway, we need a hinged shelf, it also serves as a clothes hanger.

First, we assemble the frame of the shelf, then we insert the internal spacer shelves into it. We sew up the back surface of the shelf with boards.

Work materials

To assemble furniture for the corridor with your own hands, you first have to choose an assembly scheme. Today there are many such schemes, so it will not be difficult to choose a kit not only for a spacious hallway, but also for a small corridor in a city apartment.

For assembly, the following materials are used:

• boards for furniture walls, for internal partitions;
• rear walls made of laminated plywood;
• boards for shelves;
• doors;
• for a wall with hooks, it is necessary to take metal pipes under the frame, boards for sheathing, hooks;
• fittings (hinges, handles, slides);
• fasteners (screws, nails, dowels).

Tools for work:

Figure 1. Drawing of a double cabinet for the hallway.

• saw, electric jigsaw, hacksaw for cutting individual elements for cabinets, cabinets;
• plane;
• chisel;
• drill with a set of drills for wood, a crown-cutter;
• screwdriver;
• welding machine, if assembly of the frame for the wall is required;
• hammer.

The build process depends entirely on which project is selected. The simplest, designed for a small room, is a set consisting of a small wall with hooks, a cabinet of the “pencil case”, a double cabinet, over which you can strengthen the mirror. Such a set will look great even in a small room.

Assembling a double cabinet

A double cabinet for the hallway is also necessary, it usually contains most of the things, shoes, bags. Any schemes can be used for assembly. One of them is shown in Fig. 1. It is important that the piece of furniture is as comfortable as possible.

You can assemble a cabinet with two wings:

• height - 400 mm;
• depth - 490 mm;
• length - 820 mm.

You need to start by assembling the frame. First, the side walls, the partition in the middle of the cabinet and the top cover are attached to the bottom. If partitions are used for two separate parts, then it is necessary to immediately put boards under them, since then it will be problematic to do this. A plywood sheet with a laminated surface is nailed to the back. For fasteners, screws, wooden dowels are used. If necessary, drawers are installed for the cabinet. The doors are mounted last, but for them, you must first provide hinges of the selected type.

Installation of a cabinet model "pencil case"

Figure 2. Drawing of a wall with hangers for the hallway.

One of the main pieces of furniture that is ideal for the hallway is the cabinet "pencil case". This is a tall wardrobe, rather narrow, it can only include horizontal shelves for storage. The second option is a design that has a top shelf and drawers, and the main space is given to a hanger bar.

Usually cabinets are placed near large cabinets. Ideal dimensions:

• height - 2000 mm;
• width - 400 mm;
• depth - 400 mm.

The wardrobe can be divided into 2 compartments, there will be a partition in the center. In one part of it, a series of horizontal shelves are usually arranged, and in the other, clothes hangers are mounted. First you need to assemble the case for the future cabinet. To do this, the bottom, 2 walls and the cover are connected with furniture screws. A partition is immediately installed, since then it will be problematic to do so. For additional fasteners, wooden dowels are used, they are smeared with glue.

The next step is to attach the back wall, furniture nails are used for installation. Next, markings are made for the shelves, holes are drilled for special fasteners, the shelves themselves are installed, and a bar is hung under the hangers. If necessary, drawers are installed. When the cabinet is fully assembled, the door hinges are fixed. To install them, holes are made with a cutter about half the size of the tree. When the cabinet is ready, handles, locks and other decorative fittings are attached.

Drafting

You will have to answer two questions - how many people the bed is designed for, and how old they are. Recommended sizes:

• width: for one person - 95 ± 5, for two - 180 ± 15. For the so-called "one and a half" 130 ± 20 is enough;
• length: for a child - 150, for an adult - 200;
• frame height - within 40.

But it is worth recalling that this is not a standard, but just a recommendation. The choice of parameters is made arbitrarily, based on the specifics of the installation of the bed.

The assembly itself, according to a well-designed drawing and with the necessary tools, is done quite quickly.

• Any markup is a small error, which is quite natural if the wood is cut not by machine, but by hand. In order to achieve maximum identity of the same type of structural elements, it is necessary to manufacture one of them, the first one, with the utmost precision. Using it as a reference, all others are made according to this template.
• When surface processing wood blanks, it is desirable to at least slightly round the sharp edges. For a more thorough leveling of the base, it is recommended to use a household grinder. Working with this tool will give not only high results, but also great time savings. You can learn about the varieties of wood grinders from the article.
• The connection of structural parts only by landing on glue or with the help of fasteners (screws, self-tapping screws) does not guarantee the durability of a wooden bed. The structure of the material is quite soft. In the process of using the bed, one way or another, it will be subjected to at least minor dynamic loads. Especially when it comes to the "children's" version - kids love to jump on the mattress. The “shat” of the whole structure will appear quite quickly, which means that you will have to deal with its repair, and even with the replacement of individual parts.

The tenon-groove connection with gluing these places is a more correct solution. Typical parameters of lugs and protrusions: depth (length) - 45±5, width - 25±5. If necessary, to strengthen the structure, it is advisable to use a metal corner. Enough light, aluminum, "ten". These fasteners are installed from the inside, and after the final assembly of the bed and the laying of the mattress, they are completely invisible.

Everything else is at the discretion of the master. For example, the front and rear walls are made either the same or different in height. The legs are both square and round. If you “turn on” the fantasy, then it is not difficult to make such a bed out of wood, which can be safely called “exclusive”. When the drawing is made independently, and the assembly is done by hand, there is no hard standard. And the main practical recommendations are given.

Good luck, home masters!

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DIY transforming bed - step by step plan and 5 decor options

Folding furniture is considered the best way to rationally use living space in small houses and apartments. Let's analyze the popular models of transformer beds, and home craftsmen will receive step-by-step assembly instructions and 5 options for decorating the facade of folding beds.

We decide on the design and construction of the future bed

Before you draw up a project and purchase material, you need to decide what kind of design you need. Over decades of experiments in furniture making, craftsmen have come up with many models of transformers, it is impossible to talk about all of them, so we will focus on the proven and most popular options.

bed in closet

This type of collapsible structures is considered the most popular and affordable for self-assembly. A box with a mattress is created, which is attached to the folding mechanism in the headboard area, as a result, the entire panel rises vertically.

There are 2 options for folding beds built into the wardrobe:

1. The first option is built into a real wardrobe. In such models, the appearance of the structure is not important, the bed is simply integrated into the internal filling of the cabinet, after which the common panel, together with real shelves and drawers, is covered with sliding compartment doors;

1. The second option is made from scratch, that is, the box is assembled specifically for the size of the bed and then decorated under the closet. Such a home-made wardrobe-bed costs half the price and it is much easier to assemble it.

Sofa bed

Here we are dealing with the same folding bed decorated as a closet, but only on the facade of this closet is a real sofa attached. When a person needs to unfold the bed, he removes the cushions of the sofa back and folds back the panel with the mattress.

Such models are especially popular in one-room apartments and studio apartments. The main plus is that when the bed is folded, the owners get a full-fledged, comfortable place to sit.

Such models are not suitable for self-assembly, since the master will have to create a new or redo an old sofa, and such work requires serious professional skills.

Table-bed

Tables that can transform into a bed were originally designed for a small teenager's room, so single models prevail here. Compared to the two previous versions, they have more complex mechanics.

It is realistic to make such a transformer with your own hands, at a cost price the design is relatively inexpensive, but all the details require a precise fit. If you are faced with the creation of furniture for the first time, then it is better to order the manufacture of the main components in a professional workshop, and only assemble it yourself at home.

When choosing a folding table scheme, it is advisable to give preference to the option in which the tabletop moves horizontally down and at the same time there is space. So when unfolding, you will not need to completely remove all items from the table.

Two-level transformer

In fact, a two-tier folding design is an improved model of a folding bed wardrobe. The photo below shows that the mattress pad is simply cut in half and a folding mechanism is installed on each of these single sections.

And in order to ensure synchronization and reliable support, parallel plates are installed on both sides, which replace the ladder for the inhabitant of the second tier. With your own hands, this model is not much more difficult to make than a wardrobe-bed, of course there is more work, but the technology is simple and of the same type.

Bed-chest of drawers

From a technical point of view, a dresser bed, or as it is also called a bedside table, is absolutely identical to the models built into the closet. Only the size of the under-mattress folding shield and the orientation of the bed differ (it is attached to the side). All nodes are the same, but the box is decorated not under the cabinet, but under the cabinet or chest of drawers.

ceiling bed

To save space, such transformers are ideal. The only problem is that these designs are assembled to order and have a high price. In a nutshell, rails with a powerful lifting mechanism are installed on the wall, which raises the mattress board in a horizontal position to the ceiling.

In order not to spoil the interior, a plasterboard hanging box is installed on the ceiling with a niche under the bed, in which the horizontal structure is placed. Without special knowledge, taking on the construction of a ceiling bed is simply stupid.

Firstly, here you need an accurate calculation of the load on the mechanism, plus a calculation of the power of the electric drive with a winch, and secondly, if the master makes a mistake, then all this heavy structure can fall off the ceiling and crush someone.

Manufacturing process

As mentioned above, the wardrobe bed is considered the simplest design for self-manufacturing, so we will focus on it.

Tools and materials

As the main material, we will use chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm. From experience, it is not advisable to buy a solid sheet in a hardware store, take it home and dissolve it manually, it is easier to order material at the nearest furniture workshop, there are several reasons for this:

• The minimum size of a laminated chipboard sheet with a thickness of 16 mm is 2440x1830 mm, therefore, for delivery, you will need to hire a cargo taxi, and if the apartment is on the upper floors, you will still have to call assistants or pay for loaders to lift the sheet.
• In order to spread the sheet evenly and beautifully without chips, you will need a hand-held circular saw with a special disk and appropriate power. Chips remain from an electric jigsaw on chipboard, and with a manual hacksaw it is generally better not to approach this material.
• When you draw a sketch and paint the details (the dimensions of each part separately), you will need to arrange all the details on the sheet as economically as possible, taking into account the thickness of the cut. In the workshop, a special program is used for this, and at home, even with a cutting map in hand, it is easy to make a mistake.

• In the workshop, the ends of the parts will be laminated with high quality, and at home with your own hands you can glue only the cheapest melamine tape with an iron, which will begin to peel off in a couple of years.
• And finally, the price, if you start from the cost of a chipboard sheet on the market, then buying, cutting and laminating the ends in the workshop will cost 15 - 20% more. But taking into account self-transportation, the time spent and possible marriage, this margin is lower than when doing the work with your own hands.

In addition to chipboard, we need a mattress shield. You can make it yourself from a wooden beam and plywood or buy a finished metal structure. The first option is 2-3 times cheaper, the second is considered more reliable.

From auxiliary accessories you will need:

• confirmations;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts or studs with a section of 8 - 10 mm, plus nuts with washers and engravers for them;
• dowel-nails;
• metal furniture corners;
• two blocks of lifting fittings with gas or spring shock absorbers.

You may need retractable legs, but you can do without them, as I will discuss later.

If you order cutting parts in the workshop, then you will need the following tool to assemble the structure:

• Electric drill with shock function.
• A set of drills, including drills with a Pobedite tip and a Confirmed drill;
• Screwdriver.
• Wood saw or electric jigsaw.

How is the built-in bed

First of all, remember - a home-made transformer bed is designed to fit the dimensions of a particular mattress, so a mattress is first bought and a sketch is already drawn up on it.

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Assembly scheme for confirmations. To fix parts with confirmations, you will need a confirmation drill and a hex key.
	Assembling the outer box of the cabinet. Step 1. After marking, holes are drilled at the ends for confirmations and the parts are pulled together. Fixation step 100 - 150 mm.
	Step 2. With an interval of 50 cm, adjustable furniture legs are screwed to the sole of the structure with self-tapping screws, after which the box is leveled near a solid wall. Mounting such a cabinet on a plasterboard wall is prohibited.
	Step 3. With the help of steel corners with a thickness of 1 mm, the box is fixed on the wall at 4 points. The corners are screwed to the wall with dowel-nails, and to the cabinet box with self-tapping screws. Before fixing, you need to measure the diagonals of the box, fastening can only be started if the diagonals are the same.
	Assembly of the inner box. Step 1. At the initial stage, the inner box is assembled similarly to the outer one, for confirmations.
	Step 2. The inner box experiences large dynamic loads, so it must be reinforced with strong metal corners at all 4 corners. The lifting system is screwed to the box with powerful studs or bolts, wide washers are necessarily placed here and engravers are used.
	Step 3. By the way, in order not to spend money on retractable metal legs, the side installed at the legs of the structure is made higher than the inner box, as a result, when unfolding, the bed rests on the footboard. True, when folded, this side will form a visor.
	We build the base under the mattress. Step 1. There are no problems with the metal system, it is not even necessary to assemble the inner box there, but there are nuances with a wooden mattress pad. We used a mattress pad with slats from an old bed. If you didn’t have such a design, then you can make a support frame from a 50x50 mm beam and lay plywood with a thickness of 10 mm or more on it.
	Step 2. The bars from the mattress pad are screwed onto the side racks of the inner box with self-tapping screws. The central support in the same plane is attached using 4 metal corners.
	Step 3. In this case, lamellas were used as a support, but no one bothers you to lay a sheet of plywood instead of lamellas. The technical assembly of the transformer is over, then it remains for us to decorate the facade, but we will talk about this in the next chapter.

The last step is the decor of the finished product 5 options

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Option number 1: chipboard. The easiest option is to fix 2 shields from a similar chipboard on the facade and screw the handles to them. So the design will look like a closet with hinged doors.
	Option number 2: a mirror. The mirror on the facade looks more solid, but in this place and with such dimensions it is advisable to use acrylic mirrors, they do not break even when deformed.
	Option number 3: compartment doors. Imitation of sliding compartment doors is also possible, but this decor is expensive and it makes sense to mount it only if the interior concept requires it.
	Option number 4: pendulum shelf. Here, the facade is sewn up with a smooth sheet, and an oscillating shelf is mounted in the upper part, which turns into legs when the bed is lowered.
	Option number 5: photo printing. With a reasonable approach, you can find a photo panel for any interior, and if you spare no expense and apply an image in 3D, then the room will completely change.

Output

The method of arranging a transforming bed described above is easy to install and relatively inexpensive, and the 5 decor options presented can completely transform the interior of a room. The video in this article has alternative approaches. If after studying you still have questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

How to make a large do-it-yourself double bed. In continuation of the improvement of the apartment, it was necessary to solve the problem of expanding the living space of the bedroom with an area of ​​11m2. In addition to a small area, the room had another drawback - the width was only 2 meters 45 cm. The installed double bed in the center of the room and two wardrobes along the walls significantly reduced the living space, and the small width of the room made it difficult to get to the balcony door when bypassing the bed. Several rearrangements of furniture did not lead to an improvement in the situation in the room - another solution was required. Trips to furniture stores and furniture-making showrooms offered alternatives. It was decided to install a built-in lifting bed. But here, too, problems arose, it was not possible to find ready-made solutions for a double lifting bed with a mattress size of 160cm by 200cm, and the furniture manufacturing solutions offered in the workshops did not suit me with the width of the bed in the raised state and the height of the bed in the lowered state. All the considered bed designs basically contained chipboard boards, and this did not satisfy me, both for environmental reasons and for the reliability of long-term operation. And to top it off, the cost of the furniture, in my opinion, just went through the roof. This was determined by a simple calculation of the cost of component materials. For some designs, the retail cost of materials was more than an order of magnitude lower than the cost of the bed. Of course, immediately there was a desire to make a bed yourself and with your own hands. The Internet has helped with this issue.

How to make a large do-it-yourself bed

The work began with the search for the most important part of the lifting bed - hinges. Various options for lifting mechanisms with spring loops, pneumatic cylinders, counterweights and mechanical with an electric drive were considered. The choice fell on the application of the most proven and realizable method of manufacturing a lifting bed using lifting mechanics based on spring loops. The question "how to do?" the bed with his own hands was already decided with the selected option of the loops. The most powerful hinges that could be found were chosen, the manufacturer guaranteed a lifting weight of the bed of 200 kg. Hinge brand 108/4 are made in Italy. The hinges were ordered online. A month later, the transport company delivered a parcel weighing about 25 kg with two hinges and retractable legs for the bed.

Receipt of the cargo became the countdown for the start of work. The next day, the old bed was dismantled, the old mattress was thrown away and a new one was immediately bought with a size of 2000 × 1600 × 200 mm. The place for furniture creativity was ready. Maybe this is the wrong approach, but at that time I did not have a clear decision on how to make a bed. Initially, I was going to follow the classic version - the manufacture of a wall structure, where the bed was removed. But the desire to make the whole bed out of wood, and not out of chipboard, greatly increased the cost of materials. This is where the idea came to use two cabinets standing in the room as a wall structure - a niche for the future bed. But first it was necessary to make the bed itself. Geometric calculations and glued boards offered in the nearest store led to the following design of the lifting part of the bed: side walls made of thick glued boards with a section of 250 × 40 mm, end walls made of 25 mm glued boards, crossbars made of bars with a section of 45 × 45 mm. Do not be too lazy to choose cross-beams without knots and defects, the fibers should be even along the entire length of the bar! I confess that, having no experience, I was tormented by doubts - whether the design of the bottom would withstand future loads, and periodically imagined how the bed would break under me;). The work was carried out in the evenings and on weekends right in the room. So, the sequence of making a homemade lifting built-in bed. Unfortunately, a photo chronicle of the manufacture of a makeshift bed was kept, but, as it happens, it was not preserved with a small exception. The bed assembly scheme was born in the process of building a homemade lifting bed.

Instructions for making a homemade lifting bed

1. The sketch of the lifting part of the bed was a box of four boards and four crossbars to form the bottom for the orthopedic frame.

2. It was decided to connect the frame boards in THORN on glue (hereinafter, PVA glue was used to glue the wood, 1 liter was enough for everything). To apply the contours of the spikes before cutting out, a stencil is cut out of cardboard. Carefully apply the contour for cutting out, incorrect marking after sawing out will ruin the board, there is no margin for length! Remember the rule - in each connection of boards, the spike of one board must correspond to the groove between the spikes of the other board. The boards were originally 30–50 mm larger than the outer size of the box, this excess is cut off after gluing the joint.

3. The spikes were selected with an electric jigsaw and trimmed, if necessary, with a construction knife and a chisel.

4. After selecting the spikes on a flat surface (I had the floor of the room), the bed frame is assembled, it is necessary to check the internal dimensions and lengths of the diagonals - the diagonals must be equal! (±5-10mm). If necessary, the workpieces are adjusted to equal diagonals.

5. We mark the installation sites of the crossbars. The grooves are selected using a manual milling machine, the sampling depth is 30mm. Nothing worse than doing it carefully with a chisel.

6. After cutting the grooves, the blanks were polished and coated with a colorless water-based varnish. A total of 3 layers were applied. After complete drying of the varnish, the work continued.

7. We adjust the dimensions of the crossbars, taking into account the depth and shape of the grooves made. Do not throw away the scraps, they will still be needed.

8. We connect the crossbars and spike joints of the frame with glue. Prepare for this operation. The best connection will be obtained by connecting with force. The force is created with the help of rope loops twisted with a wooden block. Be careful and careful!!! Be sure to make linings so that the ropes do not damage the boards. It is necessary to twist the loop until significant efforts occur during twisting.

It is very important to set all the corners and constantly control the length of the diagonals. The diagonals must be equal. It is necessary to dry the glue thoroughly and reliably. It is better to leave the frame alone for a few days.

9. After the frame was made, the room was rearranged, one of the cabinets was specially moved to form the second wall of the bed niche. The distance between the cabinets should be equal to the outer width of the bed and the thickness of the mounted hinges.

10. Naturally, I did not attach the hinges to a simply standing cabinet. Cabinets need to be reinforced and fixed. Firstly, all removable shelves in the lower part of the cabinets were rigidly screwed to the walls with furniture screws, and all threaded connections were tightened. Each cabinet is bolted to the wall at least three points with the help of corners. As a result, the cabinets were rooted to the spot :).

11. Since there was no clarity on how the bed was assembled, I decided to install hinges and check the mechanism. The position of the hinges determines the height of the lowered bed and the distance from the wall of the raised bed. When choosing the position of the hinges, it is necessary to take into account the course of the headboard along the radius of the axis of rotation. In my version, the board, when lowering the bed, passes 3 cm from the wall. The rotation axis coordinates are shown in the sketch.

12. The loop is a structure in the form of a frame mounted on a support and the actual loop mounted on the bed. The frames were attached to the cabinets with self-tapping screws. They must be installed symmetrically and at the same level.

13. The hinges were fastened with furniture bolts through a large washer. The hinges have holes with corresponding threads. Holes were marked and drilled in the frame boards at the installation site. Through the holes, the loops were attached to the bed. I want to say right away that if you go my way, then at least four springs must be removed from the hinge so that you can easily lower the bed frame for work and put a small load to avoid spontaneous lifting.

14. After screwing the hinges, I installed the frame vertically. The construction of the box was still light and without much difficulty I inserted the hinges into the frames and fixed them with standard brackets. With fewer springs, the frame fell easily and remained at the bottom with a little weight, and when it was raised, it also had to be held. The room immediately became freer. Further, all work was carried out on a fixed bed.

15. The next step was to strengthen the bottom of the bed. The crossbars made of bars looked flimsy and it was hard to believe that they could withstand the weight. But there was nowhere to retreat - construction continued. The bottom was decided to be made of 6mm plywood.

16. Bars with a section of 45x45mm were glued to the side walls of the frame around the perimeter. The glued bars and crossbars must be in the same plane. Clamps were used to create pressure. In order not to damage the boards, it is necessary to lay gaskets. With only 5 clamps, the bars were glued in three stages. The bars were not glued only to the side walls of the top of the bed, where the legs were attached. Further work was carried out 7 days after gluing the last bar.

17. For the legs in the upper end board of the bed frame, 2 square holes are selected. Initially, there were doubts that the mounting holes for the legs were not enough, but subsequent operating experience showed the reliability of the fastening.

18. The bottom is made from purchased 6 mm plywood. It was not possible to make the bottom from one piece of plywood, since the standard width of a plywood sheet is 1500mm, two sheets of plywood with dimensions of 1500x1500mm were bought in the store.

19. Sheets of plywood are cut so that the seams fall on less loaded bars. After cutting out all the pieces of plywood, I began work on attaching them to the bars. The plywood was supposed to be fastened with glue, and to create pressure in the places of gluing, drill through holes with a diameter of 3 mm in the plywood to press the sheets with self-tapping screws. Plywood is laid out on the inner frame and future holes are marked, to reduce notches in the gluing area, it is better to start drilling from the back of the plywood sheets. In the place where the legs are attached, grooves are left in pieces of plywood for access to the leg fasteners.

20. Places for installing sheets are liberally lubricated with glue and plywood sheets are pressed with self-tapping screws. The bed is raised and again left alone for a few days. Then all the screws are removed, and the remaining holes are filled with PVA glue in several steps until the glue dries completely. Some of the screws left in place.

21. With the installation of plywood, the bed became heavier and it was necessary to adjust the tension of the springs to facilitate lifting, it no longer spontaneously rose. In the process of drying, the looseness of gluing plywood with bars is additionally covered with glue. This must be done to prevent possible squeaks in the bed.

22. At this stage, you can remove the bed from the hinges and install three more springs. Further the bed will become heavier and the installation of springs will require more effort.

23. Tests of the plywood-covered bottom showed (three adults stood in the center of the bed) that the bed was solid. After testing, the bottom of the bed was additionally sanded and varnished with a water-based varnish in three layers.

24. After the varnish has dried, a mattress is installed in the bed. The mattress in the straightened state turned out to be slightly larger and therefore held tightly in the internal volume of the bed frame and its additional fastening, as in the site, was not required.

25. The next practical tests of the bed were carried out, according to the results of the presence of a large free space between the mattress and the wall in the raised state, I decided to place pillows and a blanket in the bed. For this, four Velcro straps from the mattress packaging are installed. The ends of the belts were attached to the bottom of the bed with self-tapping screws - bedbugs. When the bed was raised, the blanket with pillows was pressed against the mattress by straps.

26. Finishing continued with the installation of cladding on the side of the outer part of the bottom from fiberboard sheets - sheets from the bottom of the old bed were used. The sheets were fastened with glue and pressed with postal nails. All sheets are exposed in one plane. After gluing the fiberboard, the bed was already raised with considerable effort and the tension of the springs was adjusted with the appropriate screw on each hinge to easily raise the bed.
27. For strict fixation of the bed in a vertical position, bed movement limiters are mounted when lifting. The limiters are installed on a horizontal board between the cabinets, which also serves as a dust protection for the raised bed. The limiter is made of a piece of board, a shock absorber made of sponge rubber is installed at the place of contact with the bed. It is better to fix a piece of the board with glue and self-tapping screws. The adhesive mount failed and was reinforced with self-tapping screws.

A do-it-yourself transformer bed is often made by owners of small apartments. You can make a transformer bed yourself:

• horizontal;
• vertical.

A lifting bed-transformer is assembled into a closet for the duration of wakefulness, thereby saving room space.

This will require free time, special tools and materials.

Principle of operation

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a wardrobe-bed, you will need to find out the design features of this furniture:

• box;
• bed;
• lifting mechanism.

A ready-made lifting mechanism will save you time and effort in the manufacture of a transforming bed.

Experts recommend buying the last element ready-made. The main detail of such a bed is a box, presented in the form of a plinth and a special persistent shelf. If necessary, the rear wall is not manufactured. In this case, the transformer bed will have an unfinished look. Often the back wall is presented in the form of additional shelves or a wall picture. The wardrobe bed can be made from poplar boards, pine plywood and ordinary chipboard.

The bed bed consists of a back, side boards, headboard, mattress and base. The drawing is created based on the dimensions of these parts. The next step involves connecting the bed to the box. For this, a special lifting mechanism of the cabinet-bed is used.

The entire production and assembly process is carried out using certain tools and materials:

• file;
• corner;
• level;
• pliers;
• drill and perforator;
• knife
• hacksaws;
• roulettes;
• pencil
• fasteners.

Construction assembly

Consumables should be purchased after the drawing of the future bed has been studied. At the same time, it is recommended to add 10% to each material. The drawings are made taking into account the image on them of each fastener, assembly, lifting mechanism. In the absence of proper experience in this area, you can buy a ready-made wardrobe-bed manufacturing scheme.

The wall near which such furniture will be installed should be 2 bricks thick. Experienced builders recommend making a transformer bed from chipboard, reinforcing the vertical walls of the base, to which the movable part of the furniture is attached.

This procedure is carried out to strengthen the massive structure, since this furniture will be subjected to a significant load. Often, furniture manufacturers build a bed into a closet. In this case, the load is on the entire structure. If a single transformer bed is made, then the box is the main load-bearing element.

Additional shelves for linen can be equipped by making the floor part larger. In this case, the lifting element has smaller dimensions. To make such a cabinet take up less space, the bed being made is folded in half when raised.

As for the lifting mechanism of the bed, this element can be represented in the form of the following structures:

• garage ordinary curtains;
• solid axis;
• electrical device;
• pins and bearings.

The hinge is easily screwed by hand.

The main thing is that the mattress with the frame is raised and fixed in an upright position without additional effort.

1. Counterweight.
2. Elevators.
3. Spring blocks.

The box must not be overloaded. Therefore, the movable part of the bed is assembled in such a way as to facilitate the entire structure.

The lifting part of the wardrobe-bed is better to buy ready-made. Externally, this element is presented in the form of an orthopedic type frame. It consists of a metal profile and special lamellae. The last parts are made of plywood, which is folded accordingly. Such a system is not only mobile, but also has a small weight.
In the manufacture of a wardrobe-bed, special attention should be paid to the following points:

• the quality of the lifting mechanism - it must withstand the load exerted on it;
• mattress and its characteristics;
• the material from which the bed is made;
• quality and quantity of accessories;
• the presence of additional niches for storing things.

Simple technique

A transforming bed can be made at home and with the help of improvised means. A mattress and an orthopedic base are used as the basis of the cabinet. Then the lamellas are removed. The base of the bed is set on small wooden blocks that can withstand any weight.

Marks are made on the sides. The base of the bed is docked with the side panels. Then the front is attached. The next step involves attaching the base of the cabinet to the wall. To do this, you will need to select the installation location of this fitting.

The frame is mounted using a lifting mechanism and gas springs. Then the bed frame is connected to the base of the cabinet. Next, the facade is installed as cabinet doors. To do this, the handles are attached to the facade. If you pull them, then the bed will take a horizontal position.

If desired, you can decorate such furniture. In this case, designers are advised to make additional niches using mirrors. In a room with a wardrobe-bed, you can install lamps, additional light bulbs and garlands. If necessary, use wood of different shades. With its help, they make pens and cut out patterns. The facade of the cabinet is decorated with drawings and applications.

Author: I've been thinking about building a so-called closet-bed for a long time. During the day - a seemingly ordinary closet, at night - a full-fledged sleeping bed. The prospect of saving square meters in his two-room apartment contributed to the realization of the idea, and his hands were itching for a long time after office work with a drill and a screwdriver. Physical work was preceded by mental work: sketches, drawings were drawn, dimensions were verified. And so, after the final sketch of the bed was approved at the family council and the choice of colors, the company involved in cutting laminated chipboard ordered the appropriate parts for the future bed.
1. A start has been made.

2. The bed itself was based on an orthopedic base and a mattress with a bed in operation at that time, 180 X 200 cm.

3. We remove the so-called lamellas - strips of birch plywood, curved in an arc.

4. Thinking that few furniture legs can adequately support the weight of the future bed, it was decided to install the cabinet base on two bars 40 X 50 mm.

5. We mark the seats for the sidewalls of the cabinet.

6. We join the base of the cabinet with its side panels.

7. Fasten the top panel.

8. The "skeleton" of the cabinet is ready.

9. We fasten the "skeleton" to the main wall of the apartment.

10. Special attention to this "tool". All work was carried out in the apartment, there were a lot of chips. Therefore, it was taken as a rule: drilled a hole - immediately clean up after yourself.

11. We proceed to the installation of the bed frame using the bed lifting mechanism and gas springs.

12. An important node of the bed - in this place the greatest load.

13. We connect ...

14. We connect ...

15. Reinforcing...