Where is the best place to install sockets. Placement of sockets in a residential apartment
The comfort of using electrical outlets largely depends on how competently the place of their permanent placement in a fixed wall state is chosen. Moreover, the location of the outlets in the apartment is primarily determined by the convenience of connecting any of the household appliances operated in it. In addition, before placing sockets within the apartment, you should take care in advance that in the future they will not be hidden behind furniture (in the absence of alternatives in its arrangement, for example). Thus, a competent approach to the indicated problem will allow you to do without tedious procedures for connecting and laying special extension cords along the walls or moving the device itself closer to the outlet.
In our article, we will try to tell you in detail about how to properly distribute the sockets within each of the rooms, as well as to acquaint you with the basic rules for choosing a specific place for their installation. Subject to these rules, you will not have any problems associated with the impossibility of quickly connecting a particular household appliance.
Distribution of outlets on the wall surface
The distribution of sockets along the walls of residential premises depends on the functional purpose of the premises, as well as on the number of connected electrical appliances in it. Taking into account this circumstance, before placing the sockets in the apartment, a separate scheme is drawn up for each room, tied to the general layout of your apartment. The provisions of the current regulations (PUE, SNiP, etc.) strictly define the permissible areas for placing sockets in the kitchen, bathroom, living room and other areas of the apartment.
Moreover, these restrictions apply not only to the location of the installation products relative to the floor (in height), but also to their distance from the communication elements available in the room (gas pipes, exhaust ducts, etc.). The layout of sockets and switches for the bedroom, for example, is shown in the drawing.
Additional information: On areas of the wall surface completely free from foreign objects, the position of the socket is selected based on considerations of ease of use. So, for example, an additional socket for connecting a laptop charger is installed near the coffee table (taking into account the regulated distance from the floor).
Location restrictions
We note right away that the locations of sockets in a particular room are not strictly standardized, however, general recommendations for their installation in certain areas are usually taken into account. So, the choice of optimal positions for placing rosette products in height, as well as their distance from door and window openings, is normalized by the following restrictions:
- height relative to the floor - at least 20-30 cm;
- when placing the installation product near the desktop (in the kitchen or in the office), this distance can be increased to 90-120 cm;
- distance from the jambs of doors and window openings - at least 10-15 cm.
An example of choosing places for installing sockets
As an example, consider the choice of positions of socket products in the living room and office. In these rooms, the following areas for the location of installation products should be provided: 
- Near a doorway, where it is often necessary to connect a mobile heating radiator or a portable vacuum cleaner. The location of this outlet is selected in accordance with the requirements of the regulations (at a distance of 10 cm from the jamb of the doorway and 20 cm from the floor);
- In the area of the television receiver, in which the socket is mounted at the required height so that it is not visible at all;
- In the sofa area, the socket must be installed in such a way that it can be used to power phone or laptop chargers. Most often, it is made double, which makes it possible to connect a floor lamp to it, for example. Another installation product near the floor can be used to connect an electric fireplace or a floor lamp;
- For a study, the choice of the location of the outlets is determined by the convenience of connecting a personal computer and chargers to them, as well as the possibility of connecting a table lamp to the network. The position of the outlets above the desktop is determined by standard standards (at a distance of about 10-15 cm).
You can find examples of the location of sockets and switches for the kitchen and bathroom in the next section.
Bathroom, kitchen and hallway
The bathroom is characterized by such an arrangement of socket products that would provide the owner with the convenience of using electrical appliances specific to this room (hair dryers, curling irons, razors, etc.). At the same time, the choice of their placement is regulated by the requirements of the PUE, according to which the sockets must be located at a distance of about 60 cm from the bathroom (shower) or washbasin located within the room.
Important! These restrictions are explained by the requirements for the safe operation of electrical appliances in rooms with high humidity.
Particular attention should be paid to the choice of positions for placing sockets in the kitchen, where their position is determined not only by the convenience of connection, but also by the requirements for removal from nearby gas pipes (at least 0.5 meters). At the same distance, a place is chosen for their installation near the ventilation shaft hatches and exhaust openings. The general layout of outlet products in the kitchen is given below.
In the hallway of a typical apartment, one socket is usually used, which can be located at the bottom of the mirror rack (directly above the plinth) at a height of about 20 centimeters. In the indicated place, it will be convenient to connect a hair dryer, a vacuum cleaner, hair tongs, a phone charger, as well as an electric device for drying shoes.
Please note: If the hallway has a large area, you can install another socket in it, mounted in a block with a key switch.
In conclusion, we note that not only the convenience of connecting to the network, but also the safety of working with operated household appliances depends on the correct choice of the location of sockets within residential premises.
In a modern apartment, the kitchen is one of the main consumers of electricity. The power of pantographs connected to the electrical wiring in the kitchen can sometimes reach more than half of the entire load of the apartment.
Based on this, the electrical wiring in the kitchen should be carried out by an independent group, and even better by several groups.
Power of electrical appliances in the kitchen
Before work, you will have to draw up a small project or diagram. To do this, the power of all electrical appliances that will be in the kitchen is initially calculated.
Here is a sample list of them:
- lighting - 150-200 watts
- Microwave - 2000 Watts
- Refrigerator - 100 watts
- Dishwasher - 1000-2000 watts
- Kettle electric - 2000 watts
- Oven - 2000 Watts
- Water heater - 2000 watts
- Cooktop - 3500-7500 Watts
Of course, all appliances will not turn on at the same time. But you have to calculate the total power. Most often it is in the range of 10-15 watts.
The maximum power, when several pantographs are switched on at the same time, in an ordinary apartment, as a rule, does not exceed 7 kW.
If you have this power higher than 7kW, then here you already need to think about inputting 380V and distribute the load by phases. 
Which cable to choose for the kitchen
Next, you need to calculate the cross section of the common supply wire of the electrical panel and the outgoing wiring to each pantograph. Follow the rules here:
- with a load of devices up to 3.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*2.5mm2
- with a load of devices up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 4mm2
- with a total load of all devices up to 10 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*6mm2
- with a total load of all devices up to 15 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*10mm2
Why the VVGnG-Ls brand should be, is detailed in the article below: 
Even if you have a house with an old grounding system (without a third protective conductor), still do the wiring with a 3-wire cable. This will save you from additional costs for reconstruction and replacement of wires in the future.
In extreme cases, the third wire will be reserved for zero or phase, in case of a possible break or other damage. 
Layout of outlets in the kitchen
After choosing the wiring, you need to decide on the sockets. 
Always plan the placement of outlets after the kitchen design has been approved, otherwise there may be problems. For example, the outlets of the work area can easily be in the wrong place, and eventually hide behind the refrigerator.
To ensure that your sockets and switches are in place, take a plan for arranging kitchen furniture.
After that, mark on it all the necessary sockets. You can even do it by hand. 
On this plan, it is not yet necessary to clearly tie the installation sites and calculate the dimensions and distances. Just count the number and purpose of each of the outlets.
Number of outlets
How many outlets are required in the kitchen?
Under the category of stationary equipment fall - refrigerator, extractor hood, hob and oven, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposal.
In addition, it does not hurt to mount one outlet immediately under or near the switch at the entrance to the room. 
The zone with switches usually remains uncluttered, and a free point where you can take voltage (for example, for a vacuum cleaner) is never superfluous.
Now mark the points on the apron for connecting non-stationary devices. Lay at least two pieces for each part (right and left) of the kitchen. 
This will include an electric kettle, blender, mixer, etc. 
Distances and placements
When you have decided on the quantity, it's time to move on to calculating the required dimensions and indents. To do this, draw something like a sweep of the walls where the furniture will stand.
Here you will already need the exact dimensions of the kitchen - the length, height of the room. Gradually, in the form of rectangles, draw the equipment and all the cabinets.
If the kitchen is corner, do the same with the adjacent wall. 
Fridge
For refrigerators, manufacturers recommend placing the socket group under the appliance itself, that is, in the bottom row so that the connection is not visible.
It is impossible to say unequivocally with 100% certainty at what height the bottom row of sockets should be made.
This is explained by the fact that if you set it higher, then the embedded appliances will rest against the plugs. 
If you intend to turn off the plug quite often, then the bottom connection for the refrigerator is not always convenient. In this case, you can place the whole thing at the height of the working area. 
Sockets in the work area and above the countertop
The height of the tabletop is usually 85cm, maximum 90cm. Then there is a wall with a height of 550-600mm and then cabinets. 
Place outlets in this area 105cm from the floor.
In this case, they will not be in the middle of the wall, and it will be convenient to cover them with the same microwave.
The minimum distance from the countertop must be at least 5 cm so that the kitchen plinth does not touch them. Locations - one set in any corner, plus between the hob and sink. 
As mentioned above, at least two pieces. If you don't like the look of outlets above your kitchen backsplash, consider a pull-out unit from the countertop. 
Be sure to consider whether there will be built-in appliances in the upper cabinets. For example, a microwave.
Under it, you will also have to make a separate outlet. Pull the cords from above to the countertop area not according to Feng Shui.
Hood
Also at the top, at a height of 1.9m-2.0m, there is a socket under the hood. However, a lot depends on the brand. If this is a cheap option, then you can get by with the output of the cable and then connect it right inside the equipment. 
But if this is an expensive model, then it comes with its own fork. Cutting off the factory plug will void the warranty.
Cooker and oven
In the presence of a powerful hob, either a cable output is made, followed by a connection directly under the panel's terminal blocks, or a special power outlet is installed. 
Ovens, unlike cooking ovens, come with ordinary forks, so there is no need to be smart here. Plug them into simple sockets. 
When there are cabinets with hinged doors to the left or right of the hob and oven, it is very convenient to place sockets right inside them. Step back 15-20cm from the edge and mount. 
If this is not possible, then you will have to connect from the lower group. 
In the case of a separate installation of the oven from the hob, for example, at chest height, make a socket for it in the lower cabinet at a height of up to 750 mm.
Dishwasher
According to SP 31-110 2003 p.14.29, it is forbidden to make any sockets under and above sinks or sinks. Therefore, always retreat a few centimeters when installing the socket group near this plumbing. This applies to both the lower placement and the working area at the top.
It is also forbidden to place sockets behind the dishwasher and washing machine. 
Near the dining table (if it is near the wall, and not in the center of the kitchen), it is advisable to plan one outlet.
On big holidays, with an influx of guests and relatives in the apartment, you will definitely need to connect something on the table - a mixer, juicer, food processor, etc. 
And on simple days, you can easily attach a laptop there when working in the kitchen.
- for a group of sockets into which devices up to 3.5 kW are connected, a 16A automatic machine is mounted
- for devices up to 5.5 kW automatic 25A. Moreover, it is better to extend a separate group to this current collector
You can also navigate according to the following table for choosing machines and cables when connecting the hob: 
- since the kitchen is a wet room, plus a huge number of objects with a metal case, it is mandatory to install an introductory RCD for a current of 30mA in the shield in front of all machines
- a separate socket is placed on each current collector
This is not only an additional load on the wiring, but also a potential short circuit (due to spilled tea or other liquid).
Common mistakes
1 Installation of wiring and sockets before approval and approval of the design project of kitchen furniture.
The problems that you will definitely encounter in this case are hidden sockets behind cabinets, refrigerators, etc. It is very likely that you will even have to use carriers, since factory cords with a plug will simply not reach the connection points.
2 Refrigerator connection.
The instructions for refrigerators usually indicate a ban on their connection through extension cords. At the same time, the length of the cord is not so big, only 1m.
Therefore, if you know what brand of refrigerator you will have, find a passport on the Internet and see which side the power cord comes out of. Add the width of the refrigerator here and plan the connection point accordingly to get rid of carrying. 
And in some models, the freezer can be connected with a separate independent cord, or you will buy a freezer in the future. Initially, you will make only one outlet for the equipment, but in the end you will need two. So it is better to make this block double.
3 Connecting sockets to "wet" appliances through a simple machine.Appliances such as a dishwasher, washing machine (if built into the kitchen), instantaneous water heater, etc. must be connected through an RCD or differential automatic. 
No modular machines, let alone "plugs", will ever save you from current leaks.
Even if you do not have a grounding conductor, the RCD will still help and protect in this case. 
This location is prohibited by the rules. Step back from the mixer 500mm (the same applies to gas pipes on stoves or hobs) and only then boldly mount the electrical installation.
If the electricians have already wired it there and there is no way to redo it, or you got an apartment with such a repair, then make sure that the sockets under the sink are waterproof (like in the bathroom). 
It is also forbidden to mount wiring accessories in the immediate vicinity of the stoves. 
In the area up to 25 cm from the floor, plumbers usually install pipes for sinks, washing machines, dishwashers. 
Not knowing the exact route, do not rush to ditch the walls, otherwise for you and your neighbors it may turn into a flood and unplanned repairs.
Summing up, I would like to say that the electrical wiring in the kitchen should be done by professionals. Using the tips in this article, you can easily control the entire process and make your competent comments during installation work.
If you do not like to untangle the wires and extension cords of numerous equipment, then you need to take seriously the placement of outlets in the house. How many do you need in each particular room and where is it better to place?
Everyone is familiar with the situation when you panic in search of a free socket for phone charging, and in desperation turn off the floor lamp or printer. Statistics show that a modern person uses an average of six electrical appliances daily. Every year the number of devices and gadgets is increasing, without which we cannot imagine our life, and the number of wires entangling our homes is increasing. Consider how to properly place sockets and switches so that they are comfortable to use.
Outlet placement planning
Installation or relocation of sockets and switches implies, at a minimum, cosmetic repairs in the room. If you order an interior design project, then the application must indicate the number and location of sockets and switches. Pay attention to this point: the designer may not take into account, for example, that you like to work on a laptop while sitting on the sofa in the living room. All changes and suggestions are made before the approval of the project.
If you plan the interior and make repairs on your own, then focus on the functions and design of the room, consider where you will place the furniture. Only after developing the interior, proceed to the calculation of the number of outlets. If a wardrobe or wardrobe is planned along the wall, then it makes no sense to mount sockets on it.
The nuances of the placement of switches
The main lighting switch is placed near the door at a height of 75 - 90 cm. When choosing a height, consider the average height of adult family members - it should be convenient for everyone to press the key by moving their lowered hand to the side. Height 80 cm - optimal for almost everyone. The switch should not be covered by furniture or an open door - it is placed on the side where the handle of a closed door is located.
Switches for the bathroom, toilet and pantry are located in the corridor, and in the living rooms, kitchen and corridor - inside the premises.
Additional lighting switches (decorative or comfort lighting) can be placed on any wall, focusing on the design of the room.
Features placement of sockets
The height of the outlets is the cause of many disputes. Do not believe the "European standard" - 15 cm from the floor, but consider only the number of devices. For greater convenience, consider each room in the house.
Corridor. For the corridor, one socket in the corner above the plinth, at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor, will be enough. Here you can connect an electric shoe dryer or charge a guest's phone.
Bathroom. 1-2 sockets will be enough. One is near the mirror for a hair dryer and an electric shaver at a height of 100 cm. If the washing machine is in the bathroom, the socket for it is placed at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor. In the bathroom, it is better to use sockets with special protection against moisture.
Living room. For a TV or home theater, two outlets are enough: one for the receiver, the second for a subwoofer or external TV tuner. Choose the placement height based on the location of the TV: the cord should not hang down or reach for the outlet, but completely hide behind the screen. At a height of 15-30 cm from the floor, place two sockets on each wall: for a floor lamp, an air humidifier, chargers, game consoles, a vacuum cleaner.
Kitchen. The kitchen uses the largest number of appliances: extractor hood, dishwasher and washing machines, electric stove, small appliances (mixer, blender, microwave, food processor, etc.), refrigerator, freezer. The list grows every year.
For the refrigerator, the socket is placed on the wall behind it at a height of 60-80 cm. For the hood, the socket is mounted at a height of 180-200 cm from the floor. For dishwashers and washing machines, electrical outlets are placed at a height of 20-30 cm from the floor - holes are cut to size for them in the back wall of kitchen furniture. Above the level of the working surface (5-10 cm), place three sockets for small appliances. The TV in the kitchen is placed on the wall bracket. The optimal height of the outlet is 180-200 cm.
Bedroom. There will be enough two sockets on both sides of the bed: for bedside lamps and additional appliances. Near the dressing table, one outlet at a height of 60-70 cm from the floor for a hair dryer will suffice.
Study. The computer will require a minimum of five outlets (system unit, monitor, subwoofer speaker system and one for a desk lamp, printer or scanner). Near the shelves with books, they usually equip a place for reading: a floor lamp and a comfortable chair are another outlet. Two additional sockets are mounted on a free wall. All sockets are placed at a height of 15-30 cm from the floor.
Children's. A children's room usually combines a bedroom and a play area. Near the bed you will need a socket for a night light and two sockets for additional devices. For this room, choose sockets with special protection "from children", or rather, from children's curiosity. The holes for the plugs are protected by special valves and it takes effort to plug the appliance into such a socket.
Air conditioner. The socket for the air conditioner is placed at a distance of 30cm from the ceiling.
How to place sockets and switches you decide only taking into account comfort and safety. Now there are no strict standards for the placement of switches and sockets, and for their number in any particular room.
Count the number of appliances that you will use in each room at all times and add two more sockets for additional appliances. The main requirements are put forward only to the masters who will carry out the installation of the electrical network in the house: they must be specialists.
Proper wiring in the apartment is the basis of comfort and well-being. Therefore, it is so important to know exactly where to lay the wiring, and where to place sockets and switches.
It would seem that the repair is completed, it remains to clean and arrange the furniture, and then (oh horror!) You understand: the sockets are not where they are needed, the furniture blocks them. And new sockets are new wires in the wall, which means that you need to tear off and glue the wallpaper again, and so on in a circle. 
The ideal option is to consider the placement of electrical appliances and furniture at the stage of repair planning. In order not to step on the same rake next time, I made notes, and my notebook was replenished with various non-obvious electrical solutions, which I share with readers with pleasure!
The switch in the hallway that turns off everything in the apartment!
Great idea! After all, it often happens that you have already dressed, put on your shoes, and then it turns out that the light is on on the second floor ... Or you go to work and think: “Did I turn off the iron?”It is very tempting to solve all these problems in one fell swoop, the main thing is that the refrigerator is turned off separately, otherwise you will have to throw away spoiled food very often.
Outlets in slopes
Outlets, as you know, do not happen much. Sockets in the slopes are useful if the surface of the window sill functions as a kitchen work area, if the kitchen is small and you need to save every centimeter of free space if there is a table next to the window.For example, I have a blender on the windowsill, in which I make smoothies every day. But there is no outlet ... They extended an extension cord that spoils the whole view.
And before the New Year, you will thank yourself for this outlet when you decorate the window in the nursery (and maybe in the kitchen) with New Year's garlands.
Light switches by the bed
And not only by the bed, but everywhere in the passage places. This life hack is not new for a long time, I constantly meet it in hotels, but many people forget about it when they make repairs.
Underfloor heating regulator - at eye level
It is at this height that it is convenient to adjust it. Why do all builders try to install it closer to the floor?
Full lighting on the balcony
Do lighting loggia - do not forget about the switch. And then it turns out: I went out to the balcony, saw that it was dark, and I had to return to the room to turn on the light.
More sockets in the bathroom
A hair dryer, a washing machine, and maybe also a dryer, an electric shaver, an electric toothbrush… For everything you need sockets, which, by the way, can be hidden in a locker.
Sockets for vacuum cleaners
Many have not one vacuum cleaner, but two: a regular one and a robot. All these assistants need an outlet, and at a certain level: for a conventional vacuum cleaner 30-40 cm from the floor and in every room, for a robot - in the hallway, taking into account the place for recharging.
Socket for charging gadgets in the kitchen
Be sure to consider it! Imagine that you are cooking according to a recipe from a tablet, and the tablet is out of battery! And you don’t have a free outlet in the kitchen ... And now there will be! If we are talking about sockets provided for small household appliances such as a blender or coffee grinder, then think in advance how many household appliances you may need when cooking. If you are at a loss in this matter, then use one of our recommendations.
There must be at least one outlet per linear meter of work surface. This does not mean that sockets must be installed every meter, they may well be grouped together in several pieces.
You can do it even easier and install 2-3 outlets on the kitchen "apron" above each free countertop. Usually these are two or three groups of outlets. Do not forget to place one or two sockets in the dining table area. It will come in handy if you need to charge a cell phone or connect, for example, a laptop.
Hide outlets in cabinets
If there are already a lot of sockets on the kitchen apron and it looks ugly, hide them, for example, at the bottom of wall cabinets.
Computer sockets
Think about what computer you work on: for a desktop computer, you need 3-4 sockets; for a laptop, you need to make an outlet in all places where you usually sit with it: next to a table, chair, sofa.
The daily comfort of all the inhabitants of a city apartment depends on the electrical circuit. Most of us know that there are never too many outlets and it is better to place them at a level of 25–30 centimeters from the floor, and switches at a height of 85–90 centimeters. But this basic knowledge is not enough to make your home truly ergonomic. Brainstorm Buro designer Galina Tishutina compiled a detailed guide for The Village on how to properly plan an electrician in an apartment.
Galina tishutina
Automatic and RCD
One day, we encountered a customer's desire to make a huge shield for a couple of dozen machines in a house built in 1969 with a gas stove. It seemed that the solution would be very reliable. But in the end, such a large number of machines was not justified.
It all depends on how much power the introductory machine is at the very beginning of the circuit, that is, near the electric meter. The formula is simple: power equals current times voltage. Thus, if your introductory machine is 25 A, then you will have 25 A x 220 V = 5.5 kW in total for all your electrical appliances in the apartment. But what happens if you turn on a little more at one time? Everyone knows what will blow the plugs. But let's figure out what is behind this, and understand the role of automata.
The machine will instantly turn off in case of a short circuit or in the case of an RCD (residual current device) - in case of current leakage. Its main task is to prevent heating and destruction of wiring with a smooth increase in load. That is, when you turned on too many energy consumers on a winter evening, the machine should work first, take the hit so that the wiring remains cold, and therefore intact. To accomplish this task, the power of the machine must be directly related to the cross section of the cable that is connected to it.
Hence our main advice: carefully look at the material of the input cable (copper or aluminum) in the electric meter of your apartment, what section this cable is and what condition it is in. This will determine the real possibilities for the total power of electrical appliances in your home.
Master switch
If during the repair you re-do all the electrics, then it’s worth making the “hotel” system, which we already talked about. All that is needed is to connect all the lighting circuits to a separate group of automata in the dashboard. In practice, this is a few additional meters of cable and certain efforts to lay it. But on the other hand, a master switch can be included in the circuit, which will control this group of automata through a relay. The master switch looks like a regular key, and it is better to place it directly at the front door. And if the apartment is small and there is little lighting, then you can get by with an ordinary switch: it opens the circuit up to 2.2 kW, which is quite enough. Now, going outside, you press one button - and the apartment plunges into darkness. But at the same time, all household appliances will continue to work.
Hallway and corridor
For the hallway and corridor, we recommend to provide several scenarios. The most versatile ones are maximum overhead light, soft wall lighting with the ability to adjust the direction (useful for highlighting paintings and other objects) and something pointy. In the hallway, it is very important to correctly consider the illumination of the full-length mirror, avoiding contrasting shadows on the face of the beholder. Sometimes in the morning, one of the inhabitants of the apartment wants to quietly pack up and leave without waking everyone else up with a bright light, so a conclusion for a small lamp on a table in the hallway would be very helpful.
If the corridor is long, then for the convenience of sudden night walks to the toilet or to the refrigerator, you can make the lower night illumination, we call it “take-off” - by analogy with the runway. You will get additional comfort if you connect these lamps to a motion sensor: they will turn on softly on their own, illuminate the corridor, showing the way, and then turn off after a while. The main advantage of such a lighting circuit is invisibility and comfort, because the lamps are close to the floor and therefore do not make a sleepy person squint.
A good idea in the hallway is to consider a place where the Wi-Fi router and other gadgets, such as a NAS drive, will be placed. In this place, you need an additional number of outlets and at least an Ethernet cable to switch the smart TV.
Bedroom
In the bedroom, our top recommendation is to use walk-through switches. They are very convenient: you can turn on the light with one switch at the door, and turn it off with another, which is located by the bed. However, care must be taken to ensure that the electrician correctly connects the wires and the switches are in agreement with each other in the location of the keys. That is, if you turned on the light at the door of the room by pressing the top of the switch, then intuitively you will try to press the bottom of the return passage switch by the bed. And vice versa, and since the switches do not have a predetermined switching position, they work like a swing. This little nuance is hard to catch during renovations, but it can be very noticeable in everyday life.
Also, in the layout of the bedroom, we always do a “check with a crib”, trying to simulate the situation of furniture placement, if a baby also lives in the bedroom for some time. Even if you understand that this is not your scenario for the near future, it can be envisaged to make the layout more competent. In addition, perhaps one day it will be appreciated as a plus by potential buyers.
Living room and kitchen
In the living room, as well as in the bedroom, it is important to correctly use the switches. We recommend that you duplicate the switches of all circuits near the dining table. This is very convenient: without getting up, you can adjust the light around.
Traditionally, a beautiful lampshade creates coziness and romance over the dining table. Use a dimmer to make light bulb adjustment smooth. In this case, place the dimmer also at arm's length. Consider seasonal lighting as well. For example, determine the place where the Christmas tree will stand, and decide where the garland will be included. In this case, it is very good to use sockets that are controlled by a switch.
In the kitchen, try to ensure that the light control unit is in the area of the kitchen set and within the reach of the hostess. In the event that the illumination of the work surface suddenly became insufficient, it should be possible to quickly and easily add an overhead light with one click.
On a kitchen backsplash, you always want to find a middle ground in terms of the number of sockets: on the one hand, to have enough of them for all gadgets, and on the other hand, not to get too bulky frame blocks. Our advice - count the gadgets and add in reserve. Almost everyone remembers the outlet for the kettle and microwave, but in recent years, household coffee makers have come to us, and cappuccinators and coffee grinders have come to them. More multicookers, blenders, bread makers and even yogurt makers. How many innovations will still be ahead, no one knows, but it would be a good idea to provide sockets for them already at the repair stage.
bathroom
Over the years of the Soviet past, we have become accustomed to the fact that the light switches for bathrooms are located outside. This was primarily due to safety considerations, because there could be significant humidity inside the bathroom, which would lead to oxidation of the contacts. Modern switches have become much more technologically advanced, so we recommend placing switches inside the bathroom whenever possible. In this case, no one can turn off the light for you when you are inside.
We also actively use motion sensors with a 5-7 minute timer for scenarios in which someone came in just to wash their hands quickly. Even in the bathroom, cozy contours of light at shoulder and floor level always look very interesting - mirror lighting, lamps, soaring bathroom lighting near the floor and niches in the walls.
As for sockets: in a modern bathroom near the sink, in addition to toothbrushes, which are often electric, household irrigators have appeared. It would be nice for each device to have its own waterproof outlet with a cover, because open tees in the sink area are not a very cool idea.
Wardrobe
If you have a wardrobe, then it is better to provide at least two lighting circuits in it. One should illuminate the entire space, so it is located high enough. And the second circuit should additionally accentuate key places, such as a mirror. And, of course, do not forget at least one outlet: one day it will definitely come in handy.
Children's
The peculiarity of the nursery is that in this room everything changes very quickly. Therefore, we always recommend using many lighting contours, but not being tied to stationary lamps and sconces on the walls, in order to leave maximum flexibility in furniture placement. We advise you to plan socket blocks for each wall and use at least two circuits of sockets connected to switches so that you can get cozy spotlights almost anywhere in the room.
PHOTO: cover - Dima Tsyrenshchikov,
1 - shutterstock.com/Photographee.eu , 2 -