Do-it-yourself warming of a cold veranda. Features of warming the veranda with your own hands

The veranda in a private house performs several functions at once. It can be a vestibule, a hallway, a warehouse, a dining room or even a bathroom. Some manage to equip the veranda as a greenhouse for growing various plants. So an important step in its construction is the process of warming.

wooden veranda

When the process of warming a wooden extension is carried out even at the time of construction, then no preparatory measures are necessary. It is necessary to lay a layer of the selected heat insulator before finishing the veranda with finishing materials inside the room. From above, cover everything with drywall or clapboard.

Ceiling insulation

The first step is to lay the heat insulator on the ceiling. If the extension has a flat roof, then you can lay a heat insulator between it and the ceiling. To do this, fix the vapor barrier material on the crate using a construction stapler. Do this on the surface of the entire roof with an overlap along the perimeter of 15-20 cm. In those places where the canvases are joined, walk with tape.

If mineral wool is used for insulation, then it is necessary to drive nails into the floor beams in advance in a checkerboard pattern. But just don't beat them all the way. Also, an assistant will be invited to carry out the work.

He will hold the insulation boards, and you will tie them to the ceiling using hammered nails and nylon cord. When the mats are fixed, it remains to hammer in the nails to the end.

Insulation of the veranda may involve laying foil insulation. For this, penofol and isolon can be used. Fastening it should take place on the glue and staples of the stapler. Penofol refers to lightweight materials, so it does not need to be fixed securely, as was the case with mineral wool. Glue the joints of the sheets of material with adhesive tape. When the penofol has been fixed, the main coating can be fixed. But what a bath with a veranda and a barbecue will look like, and how you can make such a project in your garden, will help to understand this

Sten

On the video - how to insulate the veranda for winter living:

brick veranda

Before starting work on the insulation of a brick extension, it is necessary to consider which material is best suited for this. It is worth using roll and plate heat insulators. They have sufficient air and vapor permeability. It is less preferred to use synthetic polyurethane foam materials.

Floor insulation

After making the base, you can install the lower trim on the supports. It is worth using a bar with a section of 150x150 mm. Then move on to the arrangement of the frame. Fix the draft floor of the veranda on the beam using edged boards 25 mm thick. If there is a subfield, then the task can be easily completed.

If this space under the floor is missing, then attach 30x30 bars to the side planes at the bottom of the timber. They will be installed subfloor. Lay a heat insulator on top of the boards. To protect it from moisture, it is necessary to fix a layer of vapor barrier. But how it happens, you can find out from this video.

It will also be interesting to see how Finnish one-story houses with a timber veranda look like:

But what does the veranda to the house with plastic windows look like, and how to make it, will help to understand this

Sten

Fix vertical bars along the perimeter of the walls and fix them with transverse horizontal inserts and slopes. From the street, sheathe the walls with finishing material, after taking care of laying the vapor barrier. Lay the heat insulator in 2 layers between the vertical posts. When all the walls are insulated, you can sew on a vapor barrier and complete the inner wall cladding. But what the design of an open veranda looks like can be understood by looking at the contents of this

Ceiling

The assembly of the frame is carried out by analogy with the lower floors. That is, square-section boards are used for this. It is necessary to insulate the ceiling even before the installation of the roof. For these purposes, it is necessary to carry out a finishing section of the ceiling structure from the underside of the floor bars, having previously laid a layer of vapor barrier.

A vapor barrier is attached to the casing. You need to lay it in 2 layers. Close the pie with a subfloor, on which the rafter system will be installed. If there is no separate roof with an attic, then the frame is fixed on top of the sheathing and the roof is mounted.

How to make a bathroom on the veranda

If you decide to use a veranda for a bathroom, then for after sewer pipes you have to use the following simple rules:

1. Lay a rolled foil heat insulator on the walls and ceiling, and expanded polystyrene on the floor.
2. Sheathe the walls with drywall. Thus, you can level the surface and mask communication.
3. for finishing the ceiling and walls it is worth using tiles. At the same time, it should be dark for the ceiling, and light for the walls.
4. To save water and time, it is necessary to mount a shower cabin. Then you can proceed to install the toilet and sink.
5. A washing machine can be installed in the bathroom.
6. In order for the room to be ventilated, it is necessary to provide for the installation of an opening window.
7. For lighting, you can use a ceiling lamp and a backlight on the mirror. It will also be interesting to look at what exists and how to choose what is needed.

Insulation of the veranda in a wooden house is a crucial and difficult stage in the arrangement of the internal space of auxiliary premises of a country house.

In this regard, the developer has a question - what material is best used for insulation? In order to answer this question, you need to study the advantages and disadvantages of existing materials, and then decide on their choice.

For insulation are used: penofol, polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, natural (flax, tow, moss) and synthetic heaters.

All of the listed types of heat-insulating materials have their own pros and cons, which determine the possibility of performing work with their use, as well as the terms and conditions of their operation.

Advantages of various types of heaters

Penofol is a multilayer material consisting of polyethylene foam and a foil layer, the advantages of its use are:

• versatility of application;
• the possibility of using without installing an additional layer of vapor barrier;
• high degree of noise reduction;
• ease of installation and use;
• environmental friendliness and fire safety;
• there is no possibility for rodents and other living organisms to live in the internal space of the material.

Polyfoam is a material having a foamed structure, its advantages are:

• relatively low cost;
• low thermal conductivity;
• low specific gravity;
• long service life;
• resistance to microorganisms, mold and fungus;

Expanded polystyrene is a gas-filled material obtained from polystyrene and its derivatives, its advantages are:

• low thermal conductivity;
• low specific gravity;
• water resistance;
• resistance to various types of deformations;
• the ability to operate in a wide temperature range;
• ease of installation work;
• relatively low cost.

Mineral wool is a non-organic type fibrous structure insulation, produced in several modifications (glass wool, stone wool, slag wool), the advantages are:

• low thermal conductivity;
• strength, under mechanical stress;
• resistance to temperature extremes and the effects of chemicals, as well as living organisms;
• ease of installation work.

Polyurethane foam (PPU) - is a foamed plastic made on the basis of polyurethane, the advantages of this material are:

• high level of adhesion;
• the possibility of applying by spraying;
• low specific gravity;
• wide operating temperature range (-150 to +150 *С);
• long periods of operation.

Linen, tow, moss - natural types of insulation used in construction, their advantages are:

• low thermal conductivity;
• high bactericidal activity;
• environmental friendliness;
• low risk of fungal growth.

Synthetic insulation for construction - polymeric materials used similarly to natural types of insulation. Produced in the form of a sealant and foam compositions, they have all the qualities inherent in natural analogues and do not have the disadvantages inherent in them.

Disadvantages of different types of insulation

• softness of the material, limits the scope of its use (cannot be laid under wallpaper and plaster);
• special glue or mastic is required to fix it on building structures;
• when insulating external walls, it can be used as an additional material in the overall insulation system.

• when heated, release harmful substances to human health;
• has the ability to accumulate moisture on its surface;
• under the influence of sunlight and chemically active substances is destroyed;
• not resistant to mechanical stress;
• damaged by rodents.

Styrofoam:

• Low sound absorption capacity;
• Inability to withstand exposure to chemicals and substances;
• Fire hazard of the material;
• The ability to destroy under the influence of sunlight;
• Low vapor permeability;
• Damaged by rodents.

Mineral wool:

• when interacting with the respiratory organs, eyes and skin of a person, their damage is possible;
• shorter service life than analogues.

Polyurethane foam (PPU):

• low vapor permeability;
• when exposed to sunlight, thermal insulation characteristics deteriorate;
• is a flammable material;
• high price.

Flax, tow, moss:

• Moss and tow sold in bales are taken away by birds.

How to insulate a wooden veranda?

When the question arises of the need to insulate the veranda, the first step is to choose the material with which the insulation will be performed. When choosing a material, the selection criteria are used, which are:

• Thermal conductivity of the material.
• Environmental Safety.
• Fire safety.
• Terms of operation.
• The complexity of the installation work.
• Price.

Having decided on the material, you should prepare a tool that will be used when installing the insulation.

For this type of work, you will need: carpentry and metalwork tools, a stapler, a construction knife, a screwdriver or an electric drill, hacksaws, paint brushes and a building level.

Options for the device of insulation elements

For various building elements of the veranda, such as: floor, ceiling, walls - insulation work can be performed in different ways, using different materials. This choice must correspond to the ability of the material to be mounted in one or another plane of the space in which the insulation is laid, as well as the technology for performing work.

Floor insulation

Floor insulation works depend on its design and the material that was used in its construction.

If it is a concrete floor, then it can be insulated by using:

• Expanded clay - which is poured on a concrete base, after which logs are laid - for laying a fine wooden floor, or spilled with a liquid solution, followed by laying a reinforcing mesh and pouring concrete - with a concrete version of the floor device.
• Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene - which are laid on a concrete base between the lags. After that, the finishing flooring is carried out. Mineral wool and rigid type polyurethane foam can be used in the same way.
• Polyurethane foam of an elastic, liquid type, is poured over a concrete base between pre-laid logs and after it has hardened, it is possible to perform a fine finish on the floor surface.

If the floor is made of lumber, then all of the above methods of insulation can be used, with the only difference being that the insulation is laid on the surface of the "subfloor".

Wall insulation

The choice of material for wall insulation depends on their design. If the veranda is built using frame technology, then the insulation is laid in the internal space of the frame. In this case, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam are used.

If the walls are built of brick and concrete, then insulation can be done using penofol, and if timber or logs, various types of natural insulation (flax, tow, moss) can be used, which are laid in the grooves between the crowns of the log house.

Ceiling insulation

Ceiling insulation can be done in the same way as wall insulation. The only feature of performing such work is that it is almost impossible to do the work alone, because. they are carried out overhead.

One of the options for performing such work, which somewhat simplifies their implementation, is the laying of penofol on the surface of the ceiling from the inside of the veranda, and outside, in the attic, insulation is performed, as in the variant of work on the floor of the insulated room.

Insulation mounting options

When performing work on the insulation of the veranda, the developer faces another question that needs to be addressed: from which side should the veranda be insulated - from the inside or from the outside?

Each insulation option has its advantages and disadvantages, having studied which you can make the right decision for each specific case of work.

The advantages of warming the veranda from the inside are:

• The ability to perform work at any time of the year, regardless of weather conditions.
• It is possible to carry out the insulation of all elements of building structures in one period of installation work.

• To lay the insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the existing decoration of the veranda room.
• The line of demarcation of warm and cold zones shifts to the inner space of the wall, which can lead to the destruction of the latter.

When laying insulation from the outside, the advantages of this installation method are:

• The volume and area of ​​the veranda do not decrease, but remain in their geometric dimensions.
• The performance of work does not affect the use of the usable area of ​​​​the veranda.
• Construction waste is left outside.
• The use of new materials in the subsequent exterior decoration of the veranda will give it a new look.

The disadvantages of this version of the work will be:

• The dependence of the work on the season and the presence of precipitation.

Heating of the veranda

Various types of heat sources can be used to insulate the veranda, such as: electric heaters and underfloor heating systems, infrared emitters or heating stoves of various designs.

The easiest and most economical way is to use energy-saving electric heaters, which include: fan heaters, oil radiators, convector type heaters, infrared heaters and decorative electric heaters - fireplaces.

The advantages of such sources of thermal energy are:

• the ability to work in automatic mode, maintaining the specified parameters of the ambient temperature;
• low electrical power, which allows heating the premises without significant material costs, expressed in paying bills for the used electrical energy;
• ease of connection to the electrical network and maintenance during operation.

How and with what materials to insulate the veranda is decided by each developer - the user, purely individually, while relying on the criteria for choosing a heater, personal preferences and financial capabilities, as well as in accordance with the design of the veranda and the types of materials that were used during its construction.

In a harsh climate, the owners are trying in every possible way to insulate the house or cottage. For example, to protect the front door put a veranda. This is a kind of vestibule where cold outdoor air and warm air from the interior are mixed. But, when insulating the house, they do not always take into account that additional insulation will not interfere with the veranda. Otherwise, the unheated room will freeze and damp, which will quickly make the finish unusable. With a competent approach, the veranda is insulated even at the construction stage. But it happens that the house was not built, but bought, and not in the best possible way. In this case, the insulation of the veranda from the inside with their own hands is carried out as necessary. The main thing is to know in what places the cold "creeps" into the room, and to take all possible protective measures.

Usually the veranda is placed on the same type of foundation as the main building - monolithic concrete or concrete slabs. This material does not at all block the cold that comes from the ground in winter, therefore it is able to freeze through. Heat loss through the foundation reaches 20%.

There may be several options for insulating the base of the summer veranda.

Backfilling the interior space with earth or expanded clay

These options are possible only at the stage of the construction of the veranda, when foundation work is underway. After removing the formwork, the entire inner platform is covered with earth or expanded clay. Land will be cheap, especially if there is a lot of excess soil left during construction. True, its quality of heat saving is low.

Expanded clay layer prevents moisture and frost from drooping into the concrete slab

Expanded clay has higher thermal insulation, but it will have to be bought. You can make a double layer: first fill the soil, and the second half with expanded clay pebbles.

Pasting with polystyrene foam

For Russian lands, where 80% of the soils are heaving, external insulation of the foundation with polystyrene foam is necessary. When thawing and freezing, such soils expand in volume and can deform the foundation. The insulation layer will become an insulator, which will save the base from direct contact with the ground, and also blockade the frost. Expanded polystyrene boards paste over the entire outer surface of concrete, including the base.

Do-it-yourself veranda insulation is suitable for: polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and liquid polyurethane foam. All these are varieties of polystyrene, which differ in properties and method of application. The cheapest one - Styrofoam. It retains heat well, but will crack on moving soils. In addition, the foam pulls moisture from the ground, so when it is installed, an additional waterproofing layer is created (from the soil). Extruded polystyrene foam due to the dense structure, it does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of soil movements, has high frost resistance and lasts more than half a century. But it costs a lot.

Before gluing polystyrene foam, it is necessary to cover the entire foundation with waterproofing mastic

Both versions of polystyrene are laid on the outside of the foundation, excavating it to the very foundation. In this case, the first row is placed on gravel bedding. Before laying, the foundation is coated with bitumen-polymer mastic (for waterproofing), and when it dries, expanded polystyrene plates are glued. The adhesive must be polyurethane. It is applied in dots or by lubricating the entire sheet. The joints between the plates are also taken with glue so that there are no cold bridges and cracks for moisture to penetrate.

The latest way of external insulation - polyurethane foam coating. It is brought to the construction site in the form of liquid components and sprayed onto the foundation with special equipment. After curing, the coating becomes dense, monolithic and very durable. According to the characteristics, this material is not inferior to the extruded "brother", but the cost of work is more expensive.

With sprayed insulation, the best quality of thermal insulation, because there are no joints

To keep your feet warm: floor insulation

In addition to the foundation, the floor is closest to the ground. Its insulation is mandatory if you do not want to see black spots of dampness in the corners.

Most often, concrete floors are poured on the verandas. If you plan to heat the veranda using the "warm floor" system, then you should take care of it already at the stage of pouring the subfloors. It is better to choose an electrical system that you will turn on as needed. The water floor can freeze at very low temperatures, and you will have to wait for spring to thaw it, or dismantle the coating to warm up the pipes.

If there was an old tile on the veranda, then you can put insulation directly on it

Consider how you can insulate the floor on an unheated veranda:

1. The entire underground is covered with rubble, and from above - with sand and compacted tightly.
2. Lay out reinforcing bars or mesh (so that the concrete does not burst) and make a concrete screed 5 cm thick.
3. When the fill is tired, we create waterproofing. The easiest way is to coat the screed with water-repellent mastic. But it's cheaper - to lay sheets of roofing material and fasten them together using bituminous mastic (or warm it up with a burner and roll it).
4. Logs impregnated with an antiseptic are mounted on top of the waterproofing, and insulation is laid between them. The best option is mineral wool with a foil side. The foil does not release infrared radiation from the veranda, with which most of the heat escapes. Rolls of insulation are placed after all the logs are installed.
5. You can also insulate with polystyrene foam. Then the joints between the plates must be blown out with mounting foam, and when it dries, cut off the excess.

After that, boards or decking are laid, because both materials are warm. The board must be treated in every way from decay and painted with a protective compound. In addition, natural wood is very afraid of poor ventilation. To avoid dampness, it is necessary to make ventilation vents in the foundation, which should be located below the floor level.

The insulation is placed with the foil up so that it reflects the heat back into the veranda.

Decking does not require underground ventilation, because it is not afraid of dampness and temperature changes

Decking is also a board, but already processed with compounds at the factory. It is made from larch, which is not afraid of frost or moisture. Open terraces are lined with such material, so it is all the more suitable for a veranda. True, the cost of such a floor will be expensive.

We put thermal protection for the walls

The walls have a large area of ​​​​contact with the street, so consider how to insulate the veranda with your own hands from the outside and from the inside. Outside, insulation is carried out if the material of the walls looks unpresentable. Those. it can be blocks, old wood, etc.

External insulation

a) For wooden walls:

1. We close all the cracks in the building.
2. We fill a vertical crate of bars on a tree in increments of up to half a meter. It is better to measure the width of the insulation and fill it exactly to its size. Then all the plates will fit tightly to the crate.
3. We insert mineral wool between the bars, fixing with dowel-umbrellas.
4. We fix the waterproofing film on top with a stapler.
5. We finish with clapboard or siding.

After laying the mineral wool, it is necessary to attach a waterproofing film to the crate with a stapler

b) For block walls:

1. We glue polystyrene foam plates on the walls with a special adhesive composition, additionally strengthening with dowel-umbrellas.
2. We coat the same glue on the top of the plates and fix the reinforcing mesh on them.
3. After drying, we cover the walls with decorative plaster.
4. We paint.

Choose an adhesive composition specifically for laying polystyrene foam boards

All layers of the insulation cake are hidden under decorative plaster

We warm ourselves from the inside

If the veranda looks aesthetically pleasing from the outside, and you do not want to change its appearance, then internal insulation can be carried out. But, before insulating the veranda from the inside, it is necessary to carefully caulk all the cracks (in a wooden building).

Work progress:

1. They are stuffing the crate.
2. A waterproofing film is fixed with a stapler, which will not let moisture from the street into the insulation.
3. A metal frame is mounted from profiles, on which drywall is then fixed.
4. Fill the frame with mineral wool.
5. Cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film.
6. Install drywall.
7. Apply a finishing coat (putty, paint).

The distance between the metal profiles must match the width of the insulation sheets

We check the tightness of the installation of windows, doors

Large heat losses can come from windows and doors. If there are old wooden windows on your veranda, but you do not want to change them to double-glazed windows, then you need to thoroughly check their tightness:

• First of all, we pay attention to the quality of the glazing of the veranda: for this, we pull each glazing bead.
• If they are cracked or loose, then it is better to remove all the glasses, clean the grooves and coat them with silicone sealant.
• Then we insert the glass back and apply sealant around the edge.
• We press with glazing beads (new!).

Walk with an ordinary metal ruler at the joints of the frame and the window opening. If in some places it passes freely, then these slots must be sealed with mounting foam. Check the front door the same way. If you bought a non-insulated version, then you will have to insulate the canvas yourself from the inside and upholster it with leatherette.

By fixing the glass on both sides with sealant, you will make it impermeable to the wind

All places where the ruler moves freely must be foamed

We exclude the leakage of warm air through the ceiling

It remains to figure out how to insulate the ceiling, because through it a significant part of the heat escapes from the wooden veranda. Especially if the front door opens. A stream of cold air rushing inward instantly squeezes out warm air.

The best option is to lay a foil-coated foam polymer between the beams, which will simultaneously keep heat and prevent moisture from passing through.

You can also choose mineral wool, but then the roofing material for vapor barrier is placed as the first layer, and insulation boards are placed on it.

Roofing material is laid under mineral wool for waterproofing

After such thorough insulation, your veranda will withstand any frost, even if it is unheated.

In order to insulate an extension to the house, you will need a good thermal insulation material. The optimal solution for internal and external insulation is mineral wool boards. They are great for insulating walls and ceilings from boards, they have good thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, durability and are inexpensive. For internal work, a heater with a thickness of 50-70 mm is needed.

List of required materials:

1. Waterproofing film to protect the insulation from moisture.
2. Fasteners and metal profiles for the construction of the frame and plasterboard cladding.
3. Wooden slats with a section of 5 x 2 cm.
4. Gypsum boards for final wall cladding with a thickness of 9.5 to 12 mm.
5. Putty for processing joints between plasterboard sheets.

Stages of warming:

• Creation of a crate for fastening thermal insulation. On the surfaces that we insulate, we fill the prepared slats or boards with a distance slightly less than the width of the heat-insulating panels.
• Heater installation. Between the bars we place mineral wool. So are the walls.
• Waterproofing. We cover the entire insulated surface with a vapor barrier membrane, overlapping the edges. We fix the film with staples on the bars of the crate.
• Frame for drywall sheets. We fasten vertical and horizontal metal profiles, creating a frame for the final sheathing.
• GKL sheathing. We install drywall on walls and ceilings.

• Note. In principle, other material can be used instead of drywall for sheathing. It can be wooden lining, plywood, OSB or GVL. Choose what suits you best in terms of external and internal characteristics.
• Joint processing. Using putty, we cover the joints between the plates, we clean them.
• Cosmetic finish. The finished surface can be painted, wallpapered, tiled or any other finishing materials.

Features of wall insulation from some materials

Walls made of foam concrete blocks are warm due to the huge amount of air bubbles contained in foam concrete, but additional insulation work is indispensable, otherwise heating costs will be too high. Insulation from the outside is much more expensive, because lining is needed. Proper wall insulation from the inside implies good vapor barrier and ventilation of the insulation layer on both sides.

It is recommended to avoid highly absorbent, fibrous, moisture-permeable insulation materials. These measures are necessary to reduce humidity in the extension and prevent freezing of the walls. When installing insulation, it should be borne in mind that cold penetrates into the room through the joints.

Mineral wool is not suitable for foam concrete blocks; expanded polystyrene sheets require additional docking. The best insulation of such walls is the spraying of polyurethane foam. It prevents the formation of condensate. To form the required thickness of the insulation layer, a wooden crate should be used. The metal profile creates cold bridges. A waterproofing layer is fixed on top of the foam with slats, and then drywall is fixed. The dew point is located at the point of contact of the polyurethane foam and the extension of the foam blocks or inside the polyurethane.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Similarly, a brick extension is insulated, but the layer of insulation for brick walls is larger.

The disadvantages of polyurethane spraying are the high price and the need to attract special equipment and trained specialists.

Insulation of the walls of the frame extension from the outside

We make the external insulation of the extension to the house from the frame according to the same principle as the internal one. First, a vertical frame of wooden beams is stuffed onto the walls. The distance between the boards should be about 50 cm, slightly less than the width of the insulation. Mineral wool blocks are tightly inserted between the beams, which are covered on top with a layer of waterproofing. The film is reinforced with staples around the perimeter of the frame. At the final finishing stage, the surface is covered with siding.

Outside or inside, which is more effective

Benefits of internal insulation

• in one step they insulate the ceiling, floor, walls;
• work can be performed in any weather conditions;
• Simplicity - insulated surfaces are accessible over the entire height.

Cons of internal insulation

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

The freezing point during internal insulation is shifted into the wall, which contributes to its faster destruction. In addition, if the extension room already has a fine finish, the decorative coating will have to be dismantled.

Benefits of outdoor insulation

• displacement of the freezing point into the insulation, due to which the rate of destruction of the walls decreases;
• the inner living area of ​​the extension is retained;
• lack of debris from construction work indoors;
• the possibility of using the extension during work, the way of life is preserved;
• additional protection of wooden walls from getting wet.

Minus external insulation

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

You will not be able to observe the state of the walls, because they will be hidden behind decorative cladding.

concrete floor insulation

List of materials you will need:

• insulation - mineral wool boards;
• vapor barrier;
• Scotch;
• damper tape;
• reinforcing mesh;
• screed solution.

Stages of insulation

• A layer of vapor barrier film is applied to the concrete base. The joints of the insulation for the overall tightness of the layer must be carefully glued with adhesive tape.
• Insulation boards are laid on top of the waterproofing material. It is important that the blocks fit snugly against each other, there are no gaps and cracks left.
• The entire room around the perimeter is glued with damper tape. This is necessary to compensate for expansion of the screed.
• On top of the mineral wool insulation, another layer of vapor barrier is applied and then a reinforcing mesh.
• The screed is poured. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm.
• After complete drying of the surface, any topcoat is applied.

Floor insulation on beams

List of materials - what you need:

• wooden boards, logs;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier coating;
• clay mortar;
• plywood.

Stages of work

Fasten smaller transverse joists to the floor beams. Lay the boards on the logs with a rough solid deck to prevent heat from blowing out. Coat the coating with a thick clay solution, wait for it to dry and apply a layer of vapor barrier on top. Lay between the log of the insulation plate, cover it with another layer of vapor barrier. From above, cover the surface with boards or plywood. On the resulting wooden floor lay a decorative coating to your liking.

Roof insulation

In order to properly insulate the roof of an extension to the house, the following principle should be observed: all layers of the insulation cake must provide moisture insulation from the outside and vapor permeability from the inside. For thermal insulation of roofs, foam plastic, foam plastic, polyurethane foam are used, but mineral wool and other fibrous insulation are best suited in combination with membrane films to remove water vapor.

Types of insulation - features, characteristics

1. Mineral wool. It has low thermal conductivity, is fireproof, durable, flexible, resistant to temperature and chemicals. In addition, mineral wool insulation provides good sound insulation. Cons - a frame is required for installation, after some time of operation, it becomes denser, loses thermal insulation performance.
2. Polyurethane foam is produced in three types: flexible, dense, sprayed. PPU is easy to install, lightweight, resistant to biological and chemical environments. Cons - an expensive price, it quickly ages from ultraviolet radiation, deforms from mechanical stress, has a low vapor permeability, which accumulates moisture, which has a detrimental effect on the walls of the house.
3. Penofol - environmentally friendly, flexible, easy to install. The material has low vapor permeability and high resistance to combustion. Cons - thin, overly soft. Expanded polystyrene has low weight, sufficient rigidity, it is easy to assemble and cut. This is a very strong, wear-resistant material. Cons - does not tolerate high temperatures from 100 degrees, has low soundproofing qualities.
4. Basalt wool is a fibrous material that is identical to mineral wool in its properties and performance characteristics. Cons - during operation it is compacted, which increases thermal conductivity.
5. Styrofoam - light and hard, does not lose its performance properties even after prolonged use, can be mounted both frameless and framed. Insulation with low vapor permeability and hygroscopicity. Cons - combustible, rodents love.
Ask an expert

Warming the extension with your own hands is always better to start with the walls. How to insulate the extension, whether it will be external or internal insulation, depends on the size, characteristics of the room and the personal tastes and preferences of the homeowners. The process of warming itself does not take much time, and the cost of materials for such work will not hit the budget.

The veranda of a frequent house, despite the fact that it is an auxiliary extension, plays an important role in determining the lifestyle of the owners. This is the most convenient place for a joint dinner, leisurely conversations and common events with friends. Over the summer, spending time on the veranda becomes so habitual that it is painfully difficult to give it up with the onset of cold weather, when it becomes cold on the veranda. Habits don't have to change. You just need to insulate the veranda.

Materials and tools

Modern technologies provide the opportunity for a large selection of materials and tools to conduct insulation in a wooden house.
To insulate the veranda, you will need the following materials:

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• wooden beam 50 * 50 mm;
• sealant;
• mounting foam;
• self-tapping screws;
• frost-resistant adhesive mixture;
• facade paint;
• reinforcing building mesh
• vapor barrier film;
• laminate parquet (plywood);
• laminated plastic panels 25*595 cm;
• MDF panels (drywall);

Here are the main materials with which you can carry out almost all work on the insulation of the veranda in the house. But, based on the plans and tastes of the owners, you can always add several items to it, such as wallpaper, roofing material and floorboards.

Not to do with the insulation of the veranda and without tools. Here is their minimum set:

• ordinary spatula;
• notched trowel;
• paint brush;
• paint roller;
• scissors;
• electric jigsaw (hacksaw);
• construction stapler;

Work planning

Before purchasing materials and tools, you need to plan the work. First, you need to decide on the timing of the start of warming. The best option is the end of summer or the beginning of autumn. At this time, it is no longer so hot, but it is still far from the cold weather. It should be noted that it is possible to work with adhesive mixtures only at positive temperatures. This is followed by the choice of how the floor, walls and ceiling of the veranda will be insulated. Then it remains to calculate the necessary material and carry out its purchase.

The material should always be purchased 10-15% more than the calculated quantity, taking into account its possible damage during transportation and from errors during operation. After that, you can start warming. Work is recommended to start from the floor.

Floor insulation

The order of floor insulation depends on the foundation on which the veranda stands. As a rule, this is a slab foundation, poured right up to the foundation of the house, or factory reinforced concrete slabs laid on supports. In this case, a reinforced concrete slab is an ideal conductor of cold from the ground frozen in winter to the floor of the veranda. If such a floor is covered with plywood or linoleum, then such insulation from cold and dampness is not enough.

Therefore, the floor must be reliably insulated. If the floor in the house and on the veranda is made in the form of a terrace, then a slight increase in the height of the floor in the veranda will not create additional inconvenience.

The floor is insulated in the following way. The old coating is removed. A layer of roofing material is laid on the concrete surface, the joints between the strips are glued with special bituminous mastic. This will be the waterproofing layer. Further, a frame is mounted on the floor from the beam. The distance between the rows of the beam should correspond to the width of the purchased mineral wool. Before laying the timber, it is recommended to treat it with drying oil to give it moisture resistance and protect it from insects. After that, mineral wool is placed in the resulting frame. In addition to mineral wool, foam sheets can be used. In this case, blocks cut to the size of the cells with a hacksaw for metal are placed in the frame. The resulting gaps between the frame and the foam are blown out with mounting foam. After drying, its excess is cut off. The resulting structure is covered with a layer of vapor barrier. This film is attached to the frame with staples and a construction stapler. Places of overlapping strips are glued with adhesive tape.

After that, flooring is carried out. There are two options here. The first is to cover the entire surface of the veranda floor with plywood and lay the final coating on top of it. It can be laminate parquet, parquet or polyurethane-based linoleum. It is recommended to lay a hard surface, as they will walk on the veranda in shoes and, possibly, carry out minor repairs. Linoleum can be seriously damaged.

The second option involves flooring with a floorboard. This floor can be painted or varnished. A wood floor will not only look good, but also be an additional layer of thermal insulation.

Another way to insulate a concrete floor is to install a warm floor system. The best option is the electrical design. It can be turned on only when necessary, and it is not afraid of freezing, like water. The procedure for installing the underfloor heating system is detailed in the instructions for it. It should be remembered that tiles always lie on top of the underfloor heating system. When installing such a system, a heater on the veranda is no longer needed, since the floor itself will be a large air heater.

Wall insulation

The walls of the veranda have the largest area of ​​contact with the environment, so special attention should be paid to their insulation. Walls can be insulated both from the inside and outside. Insulation from the inside is the least desirable option for homeowners. Firstly, it takes away the usable area of ​​the room, and secondly, it is necessary to destroy the interior decoration of the veranda. On the other hand, work on internal insulation can be carried out at any time of the year and in any weather, and interior decoration can be done even better.

How to insulate the veranda from the inside

The most common and reliable way to insulate walls from the inside is to use the frame method. To do this, an already purchased beam is attached horizontally, with an interval of 50 cm, over the entire width of the wall. The top and bottom beams must be fixed close to the floor and ceiling. Further, mineral wool is inserted into the formed grooves. A vapor barrier is nailed with staples over the frame with a construction stapler. The finished surface is sheathed with one of the finishing materials. It can be MDF, lining or drywall. In the latter case, additional plaster and primer will be required to prepare the drywall surface for painting or wallpapering.

How to insulate the veranda from the outside

This is the most convenient and practical way to insulate walls. Firstly, there is no garbage in the house, and secondly, the usable area of ​​​​the premises is not reduced. There are two completely different in technology, but identical in practicality, ways in which this operation can be carried out. The first is to use the frame method, the second - to increase the thickness of the walls by connecting to them from the outside a layer of foam sheets.

When using the frame method on the outer wall, with an interval of 50 cm, a beam of 50 * 50 mm is vertically attached. The gaps between them are densely filled with mineral wool. The resulting surface is hermetically sealed with a vapor barrier. In conclusion, facade vinyl or polymer panels are attached to a vertical wooden beam.

Wall insulation with polypropylene is a longer and multi-stage process, but the result is worth it. To insulate the outer wall in this way, 3 days of clear and warm weather are needed, since the work will be carried out using glue, cement mortar and paint. At the beginning, sheets of expanded polystyrene 50 mm thick are glued to the leveled and primed wall surface using frost-resistant cement mortar. After the mortar has hardened, the sheets are fixed on the wall with the help of mushroom-shaped dowels. Further, the entire surface is covered with glue, on which a reinforcing mesh is applied and rolled with a roller. After applying and drying the second layer of glue, the wall surface is plastered. As a rule, a solution of ceresite is used for this. A layer of plaster should be applied up to 1 cm thick so that it can withstand inadvertent impacts on the wall surface. A day after applying the plaster, the wall can be primed and painted.

How to insulate the roof of the veranda

In conclusion, it remains to insulate the roof. According to the laws of physics, cold air goes down and warm air goes up. Therefore, if the roof of the veranda is not properly insulated, all previous efforts will be in vain. Roof insulation is exactly the same as the floor. First, on the inner surface of the roof, a frame is made of boards perpendicular to the wall of the house. Mineral wool is tightly inserted into the frame. Steam protection is superimposed on the surface of the frame and fixed with brackets. For the front facing of the ceiling, it is best to choose a wide laminated plastic. This material will add light and is very easy to install. It is enough to install a guide profile along the perimeter of the ceiling, cut the plastic and, inserting the sheets into the guides one by one, shoot it with brackets to the frame.