Do-it-yourself installation of sockets using the example of ANAM sockets. Wiring products from "ANAM Anam switch connection diagram

Hello, dear guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

Today I present to your attention an article about wiring diagrams for through switches (switches).

Pass-through switches are designed for comfort and convenience of lighting control from different places in your apartment, cottage or summer house.

Suppose you returned home in the evening, turned on the light at the entrance to the corridor, calmly, unhurriedly undressed and went into your comfortable bedroom. And what? It is necessary to return to the corridor and turn off the light.

So I'll tell you no. For this, there are pass-through switches to make it comfortable and convenient for you to control the lighting, i.e. the lighting that you turn on in the hallway can be easily turned off from the bedroom.

There can be many places for using walk-through switches. I gave you just one example. In the article, read in what places and at what height you need to install sockets and switches.

By the way, or can be an alternative to transitional switches.

And now let's look at how to properly connect the pass-through switch.

You can learn how to choose the wire section and their colors from the following articles:

Wiring Diagram No. 1

This scheme is designed to control lighting from two places. It uses 2 single type walk-through switches. This is how it looks like:

Each single pass switch has 3 contacts (1 input and 2 outputs).

The neutral wire from the power source passes through the junction box to the lamp. The phase wire enters the junction box, from it it goes to the common contact of the feed-through switch No. 1. The two output contacts of the feed-through switch No. 1 are connected through the junction box with the two output contacts of the feed-through switch No. 2. And then it leaves again from the common contact of the feed-through switch No. 2 through the junction box to the lamp.

Wiring Diagram No. 2

Sometimes it is necessary to control the lighting in a room from two places, as in the previous example, but only by different groups of lamps or bulbs. For example, we want to control the lighting in a room from two places: from the hallway and from the room itself, but there are 5 light bulbs in the chandelier. Those. we need to control different groups of light bulbs in the chandelier. How to do this, see the diagram below:

In the above diagram, 3 bulbs are connected in group 1, and 2 bulbs are connected in group 2. The number of bulbs in each group can be changed as you like.

To do this, we need two pass-through switches, but not single ones, as in the previous scheme, but double ones. They are also called two-button walk-through switches. This is how it looks like:

The double (two-key) switch has 6 contacts (2 inputs and 4 outputs).

In fact, these are two single switches in one housing.

Wiring Diagram No. 3

This scheme is designed to control lighting from three places. It is not much different from the previous schemes. The difference lies in the fact that it includes another pass-through switch of a double paired type, or it is also called a cross, which differs from single and double. It has 4 pins (2 inputs and 2 outputs).

When the double twin switch is pressed, 2 independent contacts switch immediately.

P.S. The number of lighting control points is not limited to two or three, but can reach up to six or more. This is done in a similar way, ie. the first and last pass-through switch is used single (3 contacts), and between them - double paired (4 contacts).

The topic of wiring products for our magazine and for its regular readers is not new. About a year ago, we devoted a whole series of articles to this topic. Three of them were written in collaboration with the ABB concern. The articles also featured Legrand and several other “cool” international concerns. They were talking about, let's not be afraid of the word, excellent wiring equipment, which has only one drawback - high cost.

Probably the high level of prices explains the not too great reaction of readers to these publications. Today we decided to return to this topic and talk about the electrical installation equipment of the South Korean company ANAM, which is still little known on the Russian market. Why we decided to talk about this particular equipment, you will understand for yourself as soon as you see the price level for it. We warn you in advance that the ANAM company does not produce electrical installation equipment with intelligence and other "bells and whistles", nor with design excesses. Today we will talk about “ordinary” electrical installation equipment, with which you can solve most technical problems and create quite comfortable conditions in the house, but without “frills”. Let everyone judge the design of this equipment for himself, because, as you know, the taste and color ....

To help us understand today's topic of conversation, we asked the specialists of the company "ANAM-ELECTROMATERALS", which is the official representative of the company "ANAM" in Russia. And today we are talking with Alexander Vladimirovich Ivanov, a representative of the ANAM-ELECTRICAL MATERIALS company.

A few words about the Anam company itself. This is a fairly large South Korean company. It is a leading manufacturer of electrical installation equipment.

This equipment has a common standard for Korea and for Asia in general, which is somewhat different from the European one we are used to. With a common standard, products manufactured by Asian manufacturers differ from each other primarily in design. When our company conducted marketing research and chose which of the South Korean companies to start cooperation with, we were attracted primarily by the design of Anam products. The Anam corporation itself, in addition to electrical installation products, also produces more serious things: TVs, household appliances, video intercoms, etc. But all these products are absolutely unknown to the Russian buyer. Perhaps this is due to some unsuitability of the same video intercoms produced by Anam for our market. For us, after all, an indispensable condition is that the video intercom is in an “anti-vandal” design, otherwise they will break it on the first day. But Anam does not produce such products.

The main flow of buyers is interested in purchasing the most common household items - sockets and switches. The demand for these things is always there and it is constantly increasing. As our work experience shows, there is a gradual but steady growth of buyers' interest in these products. The increase in interest is explained very simply - this product is of sufficient quality, has a good design, and has quite acceptable prices for the Russian consumer. The ratio "price - quality" in the products of "Anam" is very advantageous.

Mounting boxes are made of heavy-duty heat-resistant plastic. Landing size - 83.5 mm. A special feature of Anam products is, first of all, their rectangular shape. This form has not only the electrical installation products themselves, but also the mounting boxes for them. This is what primarily distinguishes Anam products from products of the European and Russian standard, designed for a round mounting box. Such a rectangular standard is adopted in Asia, in the USA and in Italy. This difference primarily explains why the electrical installation products of these countries in Russia are either not sold at all, or are sold little. Now, when many have already become acquainted with this standard and with the electrical installation products themselves, there are no problems anymore. The buyer pays attention to the appearance and functionality, and the form no longer frightens him.

And if you are installing wiring accessories in a new house or in a new apartment, then what difference does it make which boxes to mount round or square, because the difference in labor costs is negligible. Those who are doing a major overhaul or building a new house are not at all afraid. We try to minimize the cost of the mounting box - they are produced not in South Korea, but in Russia, and therefore they are cheaper. Cutting a rectangular recess in the wall for installing the mounting box is, of course, not easy. In order to alleviate this problem, an adapted mounting box has been created (see photo), a recess for the installation of which is cut with the same cutter as for the installation of a round European standard box.

Functionally, Anam products are no different from the products of leading European manufacturers. According to statistics, products from Germany (Elso company), Hungary (Prodaks company), Sweden (Elio company) are in greatest demand among Russian buyers. The products of these firms belong to the so-called "middle class" and are designed primarily for the mass consumer. More "fancy" in design are the products of such companies as Legrand, Givis, Bush Jaeger. But these are more expensive products that are not designed for mass demand. So, Anam products in their “middle class” are quite competitive, and in terms of quality, perhaps, they even exceed the average level. By design, they simply win, precisely because of their unusual and unusual for us rectangular shape.

The second feature of Anam products is that they are all designed to work in a network with a voltage of 250 V at an operating current of up to 15 A. That is, any of the switches is designed for a load of 3.7 kW. This is more than a decent load. (Recall that the domestic standard provides for a voltage of 220 V and a maximum current of 6 A.) All of them are made of plastoceramic - this is a material that is absolutely not subject to fading at high temperatures, and are produced in one color - ivory. When we were certifying Anam products at Rostest, we were horrified to see how rigorous tests electrical installation products are subjected to there. And these tests of the product "Anam" withstood with honor and received the certificate of "Rostest".

The switches have a backlight in the form of an LED that indicates the position of the switch in the dark. The switches are equipped with a red LED. The use of double overlays allows you to maximize the range of products. Various combinations of switches are possible. The fact that the switches are backlit is one of the advantages of Anam switches. In the dark, such a switch is quite easy to find. There are one-, two-, three-, four- and five-gang switches in the series. For those who for some reason do not like the backlight on the switches, there are cheaper products without LED backlight. Such switches are cheaper by 10-15%, but functionally they are no different.

The sockets are made according to the European standard for the inclusion of electrical plugs with a diameter of up to 5 mm. Some models of sockets have a grounding contact. Sockets with splash-proof covers and rubber gaskets are designed for installation in rooms where there is a possibility of splashing on the socket. In the series there are also types of sockets with special protection against children. These sockets are equipped with special shutters, with a rotary valve, which the electric plug moves apart easily and freely, but the child is unlikely to be able to put a nail or finger into one of the holes.

In addition to conventional sockets and switches, there are also products called switches. These products are now in rather high demand among the Russian consumer. What are they needed for? Switches - products that allow you to turn on and off the lighting from two places (provided with a green backlight). Imagine a long corridor with switches installed at both ends. They entered from one end - the light was turned on. Passed the entire corridor - the second switch turned off. Agree that it is much more convenient than one switch for such a corridor.

There are products in the series that combine two functions at once - a switch and a switch. A significant part of the assortment is occupied by various devices, ranging from dimmers that have already become familiar to electronic timers. The electrical circuit of the dimmers allows you to smoothly change the illumination of the room. Separate models of dimmers are produced in combination with a switch and are equipped with lighting. The maximum load power of the dimmer is 1000 W.

These products are indispensable for stairwells, corridors, etc. places, and are an alternative to switches. With the help of two switches, as we have already said, you can turn on and off the lighting on both sides of the corridor (stairs). The timer can replace both switches. We entered the corridor - the light was turned on with the help of a timer. We walked along the corridor (climbed the stairs) and go boldly about your business, not thinking about turning off the lights. The electrical circuit of the timer allows you to turn off the light automatically with a delay of 1.5 or 2.5 minutes after forced switching on. The maximum load power of the timer is 200 W.

Light remote control systems allow you to create maximum comfort and convenience. Remote control of light in the simplest case can be organized according to the "on-off" principle. In a more complex case, it is possible to control the light with remote brightness control. In fact, this is the same dimmer, but controlled not manually, but from the remote control.

The switches offered by Anam with remote control (RC) will allow you to control the lighting both with the help of touch keys and with the help of a remote control at a distance of up to 10 m, turn on, turn off the light and smoothly change the illumination of the room. Some models of switches are equipped with the function of automatic turning off the light after 30, 60, 90 minutes and, for security purposes, the function of simulating the presence - programmed turning on and off the light in the absence of a person. All device functions are accompanied by a sound signal. The maximum load power of one key is 200 W, the dimmer is 500 W. Remote control switches require a separate 220 V power cable.

The 6-line dimmer with IR remote control offers you a range of unique features. First of all, it allows the user to remember the brightness of several light sources. To create comfort in your home, lamps and other lighting fixtures can be pre-adjusted to desired levels of brightness, which can then be set with just the push of a button. For example, you can create a special lighting atmosphere above your dining table and adjust the lighting in the hallway accordingly - all at the same time and at the touch of a single button. This system also makes it easy to control lights in auditoriums and conference rooms, bars, lobbies and foyers, where multiple light sources need to be individually controlled at the same time.

Anam also offers such interesting devices as motion sensors. These sensors turn on the lighting as soon as you appear in its area of ​​effect. Motion sensors are available for indoor installation only. The proposed sensors are passive IR sensors and are not used as a burglar alarm, but may well provide comfortable conditions for their owners. The main purpose of the internal sensor in the apartment is to automatically turn on and off the light, for example, in the corridor (hallway). As soon as you enter the apartment, the sensor will instantly turn on the lighting, saving you from searching for the switch. A sensor installed on the stairs will eliminate the need to burn the light on it around the clock - the light will turn on as soon as a person appears on the stairs. The proposed switches with a motion sensor provide temporary (up to 3 minutes) switching on of the light when a person appears in the sensor's coverage area.

There are models of ceiling and wall installation in the form of switches with different zones of the sensors. There are options with a viewing angle of 90 °, which are triggered by the approach of a person to this particular door and ignore those approaching the next one. Sensors with a viewing angle of 270° have a detection zone not only in front of them, but also a small detection zone behind them. This means that the sensor installed above the front door will not work when you have already passed under it, but as soon as you open the door. The detection zone of a wall sensor with a viewing angle of 180° is located horizontally - the beam is drawn parallel to the floor (usually at a height of 1-1.1 m). This is necessary so that the sensor is triggered when a person appears at any end of a long corridor, but does not trigger when pets appear. If there are small children in the house, then the sensor can be installed at a lower height.

This series offers a luminaire with a built-in motion sensor. In it, using the electronic unit, you can set the level of external illumination. This is necessary so that the motion sensor turns on and off the light only in the dark. Here you can adjust the delay time for turning off the light and the intensity of the light. (In our opinion, this is an excellent ready-made “unit” for those who love comfort, but are not very strong in electrics and will not be able to mount the appropriate corridor lamp control circuit on their own. In addition, a ready-made “unit” is much cheaper than a circuit assembled by them individual components - V.K.)

TV sockets. The electrical circuit of the TV outlets allows you to simultaneously connect TVs and stereo radios to the central antenna. Three models of television outlets are produced: terminal, through, crab, which allows you to create various television networks. Wave impedance 75 ohms (TV) and 300 ohms (FM). The package includes an adapted TV plug.

Telephone sockets
(6-pin) with shutters that protect the contact part from dust when switched off. Audio sockets are designed to connect various music and speaker systems. Before moving on to the last point of today's review - switchboards offered by Anam, it is worth talking about the security of power supply.

The question of safe power supply in the building is divided into two sub-questions: the protection of people operating electrical installations, and the protection of the electrical installations themselves. Protection of electrical installations - performed by automatic machines that protect electrical appliances from short circuit currents (everyone is familiar with Russian automatic machines of the AE and AP types). The protection of people operating electrical installations is a matter of protection against earth faults (housing) in case of insulation breakdown (washing machines, refrigerators, electric stoves, etc.). Touching such a device, a person receives an electric shock, the consequences of which are poorly unpredictable.

One of the ways to protect people from electric shock when shorted to the case is differential automata (as they are called in the West) or residual current devices - RCDs (as they are called in Russia). RCD is a device that measures the difference between the current flowing through the phase wire and the current "returning" through the neutral wire, more accurately measuring the differential current difference. If there is a difference in the measured currents, i.e. there was a current leakage to the ground (in particular, a leakage through the body of a person who touched the case of a faulty device), then it is this leakage that the device fixes. A safe limit for a person is considered to be a current of 30 mA.

Accordingly, in residential buildings, residual current devices are used, designed for a leakage current of 30 mA. The response time (several milliseconds) is calculated in such a way that a person does not even have time to really understand what “shook” him. The protection against contact voltage and the risk of electric shock provided by the RCD is a fundamental element in any normal application and is extremely important in special cases where the risk factor can be particularly high (bathrooms, etc.). Protective devices such as RCDs installed in the switch cabinet of the apartment and used in conjunction with an overload and short circuit machine successfully protect the entire apartment or house. It is these switchboards that the Anam company offers.

Distribution boards for 4, 6, 10 lines. The kit includes: residual current device (RCD), protective two-pole circuit breakers. Rated current for machines: 15, 20, 30 A, for RCD: 30, 50 A, leakage current 30 mA. In addition to the 70 WIDE series of electrical installation equipment, which we have described in some detail, the SUPER WIDE series is offered. The electrical installation equipment of this series is distinguished by more rectangular shapes and the presence of a metallized silver lining on the switch keys. Functionally, it is no different from the equipment of the 70 WIDE series. Color - ivory. For those who, for some reason, are forced to use not internal, but external wiring, a series of appropriate wiring equipment is offered.

Information provided by the company "ANAM - ELECTRICAL MATERIALS"

Vadim Kovalev

(ARS 1324, ARS 1325, ARS 1329, ARD 3701)

The remote control switch (hereinafter referred to as the switch) manufactured by ANAM (South Korea) is designed to control lighting in residential premises and offices both manually and using a remote control.

*ARD 3701 consists of a remote switch (200 W) and a discrete seven-step dimmer (500 W)

**Off timer in models ARS 1324, 1325 can only be activated from the remote control.

The scope of delivery of the remote control includes:

Switch with remote control - 1 pc.Remote control - 1 pc.Batteries for the remote control type AAA - 2 pcs.Models ARS 1324-2 and ARS 1325-2 can be optionally equipped with a coupler for connecting fluorescent lamps withelectronic ballast.

FUNCTIONS

Timerallows you to turn off the load after a specified time interval (30, 60 and 90 minutes). Installation in progresssuccessive pressing of the Timer key: at the first press - 30 min., at the second - 60, at the third - 90, with eachpressing is accompanied by a sound signal. A fourth press (or pressing any other key) disables the timer.

Simulator presence allows you to automatically turn on and off the light at certain intervals. By clicking onCrime Prevention key, a beep sounds and the LED flashes. To disable the mode, press any other key.

Adjustmentillumination done with three keys. When the "Dimmer" key is pressed, the load is turned on. Adjustmentis done with the ∆ and ∇ keys for 7 levels of illumination, when turned off, the last position is memorized. Shutdownis done by pressing the "Dimmer" key again. When switched on again, the stored value is set.

MANAGEMENT ON INSTALLATION

ATTENTION!

Switch from DU is an difficult technical device, that's why them mounting And connection must conduct skilled specialist, having license And tolerance to work from power grids.

1. The switch is connected according to the attached diagrams. Mounting and dismantling of the circuit breaker should be carried out only whenno voltage in the network. Remember that if the connection is incorrect, the switch may fail!

2. Connection wires. It is allowed to use only copper single-core wire with a cross section of 1.5-2.5 square meters. mm. Using wiresother section, as well as aluminum and stranded wires are not allowed.- strip the insulation to a distance of 12 mm. The stripped part must be even, without bends.-Insert the wire into the socket until you feel it stop.

3. Shutdown wires. Drown the mounting button located next to the socket with a screwdriver. Turning slightly, remove the wire fromnests. Important: not apply big efforts when pressing the button. This can lead to the destruction of the contact clamp.

rules exploitation

1. It is forbidden to connect to a load switch that exceeds the maximum allowable.

2. The switch is designed to operate on AC 220 V, 50-60 Hz. If the network settings are unstable, it is recommended to usevoltage stabilizer. The use of the switch in power networks with other parameters is not allowed.

3. The switch is designed to work with an active load (incandescent lamps, fluorescent lamps with electronic control gear).The use of reactive loads is not allowed.

5. Do not install the switch in places where it can be exposed to direct sunlight, or near heatingappliances.

6. The ambient air temperature should be within the range of 0 to +40°C, and its average daily value should not exceed +35°C,relative humidity is not more than 90%.

7. The environment should not contain explosive, corrosive gases, vapors and aerosols.

8.Do not install the switch in places where it may be exposed to strong electromagnetic fields.

9.If it is necessary to delete the set brightness values, press the "Reset" button located at the bottom of the front panel.

10.Only for ARS 1325-2: when LOAD 1 fails, the circuit breaker stops working. In this case, you need to replaceburnt out lamp. If only one channel is to be used, connect it as LOAD

1. Storage conditions

Switches must be stored in a closed, dry, moisture-protected place at a temperature of -25 to +50°C and relativeair humidity not more than 90%.

In many residential and non-residential areas, where there are corridors, flights of stairs, and simply large rooms, standard switches can be inconvenient and impractical. The use of walk-through switches, which greatly simplifies lighting control, the ability to turn the light on and off from different places, becomes the most optimal solution.

Feed-through switches Legrand

One of the leading suppliers of electrical products in the world is the French industrial group Legrand, which is also popular in the Russian market, providing a wide range of series of feed-through switches, such as:

• Ethics;
• Valena;
• Selian;
• Galea Life;
• Kariva;
• Mosaic;
• Anam;
• Kuteo;
• Plexo.

The entire line of Legrand switches has the same type of device and connection rules. The connection is usually made by attaching clamps or screws. The firm also produces fully screwless rocker switches that facilitate the process of attaching copper wires.

In the manufacture of the device, ABS plastic or polycarbonate is used, which makes the switch durable, strong and safe to use. The case of the device has protection against moisture - IP44, antibacterial protection (coating with silver ions), and can also be decorated in various designs and have an LED indicator.

As a rule, the power of these devices is up to 2.2 kW and is designed for a current of 10 A.

The most popular series of such Legrand brand devices among consumers are: Valena, Celian, Mosaik and Galea Life.

Valena
Celian
Mosaic
Galea Life

Wiring diagram

Depending on the application and purpose, the feed-through devices can be connected in several different ways:

1. Installation of key-through devices for controlling one light source from two places.
2. Connecting a one-button switch to control a group of lighting lamps from three or more locations.
3. Installation of a two-gang switch to control two independent light sources with one double device.

Before describing the connection diagram of the pass-through switch, let's recall how the standard one works.

N- phase zero, which is connected directly to the lamp; L- energized phase passing through the switch and providing ignition of the light by connecting the contacts in the circuit. Switching off, respectively, occurs when the voltage is interrupted. Junction box - the junction of the main cable with the "branches" of lighting and current distribution.

Thus, a conventional switch allows you to turn on / off the light from one control point from one place according to the principle of interruption / connection of current.

The feed-through switch has a slightly different principle of operation: it is equipped with three contacts (and a double switch of this type has six) and operates on the principle of switching from one circuit contact to another.

N - the neutral wire is connected directly to the lamp; L - the energized phase is supplied to the lamp, alternately passing through the switches and, unlike a standard switch, the light is turned on / off not by closing / disconnecting the circuit contact, but by switching them.

Connecting a two-gang pass-through switch. A two-button switch is a common type of pass-through devices. As a rule, it is used to turn on / off the light in two different rooms from one place. Often used in apartment buildings.

In fact, these are two independent single-key devices connected in one case. The phases of the devices are combined and work on the principle of "switching". This means that at the moment one key is energized, the other interrupts the circuit and disconnects.

Legrand two-key pass-through devices are equipped with two independent groups of contacts, due to which the keys work independently of each other - when you press one of them, the switch occurs from the upper lines to the lower ones, the former having no end output, and the latter connected to another same switch.

It follows that these devices have two independent groups of contacts: right and left. Now that we have clarified this point, it will be easier to understand how to connect this type of device.

The most popular models of this type of device are the legrand etika and valena series. Below you can consider the connection diagram of a two-gang pass-through switch.

Two-gang passage switch Legrand Etika/Valena. Wiring diagram: the contacts of the right group are interconnected by a jumper; a phase wire is connected to the second of them. The contacts of the left group carry out the current supply to two independent lighting devices, while they should not be interconnected.

Advantage and scope of use

The main and distinctive advantage of the Legrand feed-through switch is ease of use - the switch is not localized only at one point, and you can install it and control it from different places.

Application area:

• long corridors;
• tracks;
• stairs;
• bedrooms;
• big rooms.

If earlier pass-through switches were used exclusively to facilitate light control in large rooms with long corridors or flights of stairs, today this method of lighting is used everywhere for the most comfortable human life.

It would seem a banal question - how to connect a switch to control lighting devices. However, for many aspiring home masters who are setting up their residential properties for the first time and striving to do everything on their own to the maximum, this operation can cause complications. Moreover, various variations of connection schemes are possible, from the simplest to the most complex.

The variety of switches on sale is extremely large. But basically these differences relate to the external design of the devices and the “mechanics” of switching. And so in all the series produced by leading manufacturers, the approximate similarity of the “sets” of models according to the principle of switching contacts is still observed. In this article, we will see where, when and how various types of switches are connected.

Variety of switch models

What is a switch and where is it installed

A switch is an electrical switching device designed to control the closing and opening of the power circuit going to the fixtures. Some household appliances can also be connected through it, for example, a permanently installed fan.

Let's talk about the most important rule!

The switch is always placed on the break of the phase wire. Yes, the power circuit can also be controlled through a break in the neutral conductor. And quite a lot of "masters" sin with this - they say, there is no difference. But this is a flagrant violation of operational safety requirements. The meaning here is simple and clear - if the switch has broken the circuit, then the device connected through it should not have a life-threatening phase voltage. That is, for example, replacing a burned-out lamp in a lamp will not be accompanied by the likelihood of electric shock.

And do not hope that this issue is not so serious. Neglecting the simple rules of electrical installation is always fraught with serious consequences.

How big is the risk of electric shock?

The answer is unequivocal - extremely large! A 220-volt household network is quite capable of inflicting severe electrical injuries, sometimes incompatible with life. If there is no understanding of this issue, then it is not worth undertaking independent electrical work. To begin with, carefully read the special publication of our portal, which details the danger of electric shock.

Varieties of switches by design

Let's leave aside the external design of these devices - here each of the manufacturers is trying to attract the buyer with an original design. So there is always the opportunity to choose a set of sockets and switches, made in a common style, the most suitable for the planned decoration of the room. Let's move on to more fundamental issues.

Embedded and overhead models

In modern apartments and houses, in the vast majority of cases, built-in models are used. Their use is possible only with hidden wiring. The switch is mounted in a “nest” pre-arranged in the wall, in the role of which a standard socket box with a diameter of 68 mm is most often used.

It is clear that the installation of such switches requires quite extensive preparatory work. Moreover, the laying of the necessary cables and wires should be comprehensively thought out in advance. But on the other hand, hidden, well-executed wiring is safer to use and does not interfere with any chosen wall decoration at all.

How to plan the wiring in a house or apartment and install it

The task is from the category of primary importance and increased complexity. When performing these very large-scale and labor-intensive activities, it is necessary to strictly follow the established rules and technological recommendations. With all the details, this is described in a special publication of our portal “Wiring in the house with your own hands”.

Overhead switches are mounted on the wall surface. This greatly simplifies their installation, and they can be used with both open and hidden wiring.

Such devices are not always appropriate in the interior, as they protrude too much beyond the surface of the wall. But where this issue is not fundamental, such switches can greatly simplify the task. Often they are used in utility or utility rooms. Many of these models have an increased class of housing protection, and may well be installed in outdoor conditions or rooms with high humidity.

However, there are fans of the emphatically original design of living rooms, using open wiring, made in retro style. For this, too, there are whole lines of overhead electrical appliances - sockets and switches.

Number of keys

This difference is immediately visible - there can be one, two, three keys, and in rare cases even more. Obviously, such switches can be used to control several light sources or several groups of lamps in one luminaire.

A very common example is a two-key model installed in front of the entrance to the bathroom and toilet, or a three-key model if a corridor or kitchen is also added here. Another "classic" option for using a two-gang switch is the separate control of groups of lamps of one multi-track chandelier in the living room.

The convenience is understandable - there is no need to prepare two (or more) sockets with sockets for several switches - you can often limit yourself to one.

It should be correctly understood that the number of keys does not at all predetermine the functionality of the switch. In addition to conventional devices that work only on closing and breaking the circuit, there are through and cross, which, in turn, can also have one or more keys. More on this will be discussed below.

Circuit breaker body protection class

All electrical devices are classified according to the degree of protection against contact with current-carrying parts of solid objects (including dust) and moisture (water). Depending on the intended operating conditions of the circuit breaker, a model suitable for these criteria should be selected.

The security class is indicated by the letter IP followed by a two-digit number. The first number indicates the degree of protection against solid particles and dust, and can be from 0 to 6. The second number is a measure of protection against water ingress - from 0 to 9. The larger the number, the higher the protection.

In ordinary living rooms, where there cannot be too high humidity and dustiness, it is quite possible to use IP20 class switches. Nothing prevents you from installing more secure ones here, but this is reflected in the cost. But for the kitchen, for example, it’s worth choosing an IP44 class model - there are enough fumes here, and the possibility of splashing water cannot be completely ruled out.

The requirements are even higher if the switch is installed in a bathhouse, in a shower room, in an unheated damp room. Here it is better to apply models with a class of at least IP45. Well, if the installation is supposed to be outdoors, that is, a direct hit of atmospheric precipitation is possible, then the optimal model seems to be at least IP55, 56, 66 - extra insurance will never hurt in these matters.

Terminal Type Differences

Most switches have conventional screw terminals for connecting wires. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the socket (hole), and then a screw is tightened with a screwdriver, providing a reliable clamp in the terminal. Solid wires can be directly tightened into the terminals. Stranded - first they are tinned, or, which is simpler, a terminal lug is put on and crimped on them.

Many modern models use spring terminals. There is no screw on them - after the prepared end of the wire is inserted all the way into the hole, the terminal is clamped automatically, providing reliable contact. Convenient and fast, although some electricians are still skeptical about the durability of such connections, preferring to work with familiar screw terminals.

Availability of light indication

A handy feature that allows you not to fumble on the wall with your hand in the dark. The indicator lit in the off position will accurately show the location of the switch keys. The cost of such devices is not much higher than conventional ones, so such models are very popular.

However, sometimes owners who have not thought through this issue in advance have to refuse such a function. The fact is that a small current flowing through the indicator can cause flickering or dim glow of gas discharge or LED lamps when the lighting is off. For many, this is very annoying. And you have to bite out the conductor that goes to the indicator in order to turn it off completely. So this should be kept in mind when choosing a switch.

By the way, the indication on some types of switches may have a completely opposite purpose. That is, the light is on when the circuit is closed. This is convenient when the lighting device is placed remotely. For example, you can immediately see if the light in the basement, the inspection hole of the garage, etc. has remained on.

Differences by type of control device

There is also quite a wide variety in this issue. And each of the owners chooses the option that seems more convenient to him.

• Key switches are the most common group of switching devices. It assumes the presence of a rocking mechanism with fixation in one of two positions - upper and lower. The design of the mechanism is different - with a ball and a rocker, with flat or round springs, with other details that provide a given position of the key.

Such switches are very convenient, most familiar to most users. They do not differ in high price either. And at the same time, they are sufficiently reliable, capable of serving faithfully for decades with careful operation.

• Switches with a button fixed in a recessed position did not deserve much popularity, although there are fans of this approach. The durability of such devices raises some concerns - with frequent use, the button mechanism wears out rather quickly.

Pushbutton switches are also available without fixation. But in this case, the circuit also has to include a relay device, which will be responsible for closing the power circuit. Not very convenient for self-assembly.

• Rotary type switches once reigned supreme, and then they were replaced by keyboards, as they were more convenient and reliable. However, they still have their adherents, especially among retro style lovers.

As a rule, these are overhead switches, and most often - from the collections of "retro-electrics". By the way, “outdated” in them is only appearance. And the "stuffing" can be quite modern. So, with the outward similarity of different models of this type, they can be different in functionality - they can have several positions, be analogues of two-key, through, cross, etc.

• Lanyard switches. There are fans of such devices. Such switches are convenient when placed in traditional places of home rest or near the bed in the bedroom.

It is difficult to say how appropriate the widespread installation of such switches will be in place of the usual keyboards. Nevertheless, they are presented in the assortment of almost all leading manufacturers. By the way, the presence of only one lace sometimes does not at all indicate the limited functionality of the product. So, for example, some switches of this type are able to respond differently to the amount of cord tension. That is, upon closer examination, they turn out to be analogues of models with several keys.

• Touch switches. This is already the trend of modernity. To switch positions, a light touch of the finger is enough.

Tactile contact with the panel is perceived by the built-in electronic circuit, which already generates a control signal for the switching device. Very convenient, does not require any effort. And after quickly getting used to such a technique, you no longer want to return to old models.

The disadvantage in the first place can be considered a rather high cost of such switches. This criterion, probably, does not allow them yet to move into the category of widely demanded equipment. But the trend towards cheaper can be traced clearly, and the demand for it will grow. Presumably, their reliability will also increase, since there are many complaints on the network about the not outstanding durability of some products.

• Switches with remote control. This is a further improvement of the sensor models, which allows you to control the light without getting up.

Surely, such devices have a great future, and their popularity is constantly growing. But they have not yet reached mass demand - again because of the high cost.

There are other types of switches - with an electromechanical or electronic dimmer (dimmer), with built-in light or motion sensors, with a timer, or even responding to voice commands. But these are already particulars that are either used extremely rarely, or have a narrowly focused purpose.

We note once again that, regardless of the types of switches mentioned, fundamentally similar schemes are used for their electrical installation. This will be the subject of further consideration.

Wiring diagrams for switches of various types

Conventional one-button switch

The most common and simple scheme - the switch is responsible for controlling a specific lighting fixture.

Such a switch has only two contact terminals - at the input and at the output. Therefore, there are only two possible positions - the circuit is closed or open.

The circuit using such a switch is also very straightforward.

Several explanations at once according to the scheme - they will concern not only it, but also subsequent ones.

1 is the power line coming from the switchboard. As a rule, the power cable consists of three wires. Blue (cyan) - zero N. Green-yellow - protective earth PE. The color of the insulation of the phase wire L can be different, but only so that it cannot be confused with zero or ground. In this diagram, the phase is shown in brown.

2 - mounting (junction) box, in which the switching of suitable cables and wires is carried out.

3 - wire connection points.

Immediately make a reservation that such connections in the box can be performed in different ways. These are twisting, followed by soldering and insulation. For twists without soldering, special caps can be used. Terminals of various types are widely used. So, Wago clamping terminals are very popular among electricians, allowing, if necessary, to disconnect the wires without the risk of breaking them. These terminals are often criticized. But from the experience of personal use: for 8 years of operation in the home lighting system - not a single complaint.

However, each master here is free to choose a connection that meets the safety requirements and his concepts of reliability and durability. The only thing, of course, is that copper-aluminum twists are completely excluded. Yes, aluminum, by the way, has no place in home wiring for a long time.

4 - single-key switch.

5 - a lighting device is conditionally shown.

6 - the body of the lighting device, if it is made of metal. In this case, a ground loop wire must be connected to it in order to avoid injury in the event of a phase breakdown on the case. As you can see, this ground conductor does not take any part in the control and power circuit of the lighting device and, by and large, does not affect its performance. It is also not involved in cases where the body of the lamp is completely made of dielectric materials. Therefore, once again emphasizing the importance of protective grounding, we will not show it in subsequent diagrams so as not to “overload” the image with details.

We pay attention once again - the switch is placed only on a phase break. The neutral conductor goes directly from the mounting box to the lamp - in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe switch, it has nothing to do at all.

How such a connection works is shown by the diagram below.

Everything is extremely simple and clear. When the key is switched up, the circuit is closed. There is already a zero on the lamp, the phase came through the switch - the lighting device worked. (We are talking about lighting, but it should be correctly understood that another device, for example, a stationary fan, can be connected in the same way).

Again, just for an example when studying the simplest circuit, let's look at the recommended sequence of steps for connecting a switch to a lighting fixture using hidden wiring.

Illustration Brief description of the operation to be performed

	Preparatory work has been carried out. The apartment (house) has already installed a switchboard with circuit breakers (pos. 1). Punches (pos. 2) are cut from it for laying hidden power cables. From the mounting box (pos. 3), “responsible” for connecting the lighting fixture, a streak (pos. 4) is cut vertically down to the socket box (pos. 5), where the switch will be installed. In the opposite direction, towards the ceiling, there is a shtraba (pos. 6) for laying the cable from the box to the lighting fixture.
	A cable is laid from the switchboard in the gate to the box. If the network implies the presence of a ground loop, then the cable must be three-core. For lighting systems, we can recommend the cable VVGPng 3 × 1.5 mm². The cable must be brought into the box with a margin of approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm so that the length is enough for installation work.
	The phase L wire (in this example, its insulation is gray) is connected to the output of the circuit breaker responsible for a specific line of the lighting system. When using wires with a cross section of 1.5 mm², the rating of the machine should be 10 amperes.
	The blue wire of the N cable is connected to the zero bus. Green-yellow, respectively, to the PE bus bar.
	The end of the cable jammed into the box is cut off - the outer protective sheath is removed from it, the ends of the wires are stripped 8 ÷ 10 mm from insulation. It is advisable to immediately mark the wires - stick strips of plaster on them and sign them. This is especially important if distractions are made for other work (and this often happens at this stage of construction or repair), and in cases where the colors of the wire insulation have a non-standard color - and this also happens. So that the “pinout” is not forgotten, it is better to mark the wires right away.
	A two-wire cable VVG 2 × 1.5 is laid in the vertical shtrab from the box to the socket of the future switch. Also, a margin is left along the length of about 100 ÷ 120 mm. The cable is cut, the ends of the wires are stripped of insulation. The example shows that the wires have gray and brown insulation. In this case, this is not so important - one L is simply marked, and the second - L1.
	A similar operation is carried out at the opposite end of this piece of cable, inserted into the socket. Since it is supposed to finish the walls with filling the stub channels with plaster (putty), it is better to seal the socket at this stage with construction tape so that the solution does not get into it. The installation of the switch is usually carried out after finishing.
	From the junction box, along the upward strobe, and then through the cable channel in the ceiling, wiring is laid leading to the installation site of the lighting device. Again, this can be a VVG 3 × 1.5 cable if ground switching is supposed.
	A lighting fixture is attached to the selected location. The laid cable must be brought into its housing. True, many devices (the same chandeliers) also suggest an open location of the switching unit, which is then closed with a decorative cap. But it is not difficult to deal with this locally, and the switching principle does not change from such differences.
	The connected cable is cut, the wires are stripped of insulation, marked.
	The stripped ends of the cable wires are connected to the lamp terminals. For grounding, a terminal is usually provided, located directly on the instrument case. The blue wire N is connected to the terminal block, focusing on the color of the lamp wire suitable for it, or guided by the affixed icon. Well, then the phase wire L1 is connected - to the remaining terminal or, again, in accordance with the marking of the contacts.
	The opposite end of this cable inserted into the junction box is cut, the wires are stripped and marked.
	Now you need to carefully separate the wires in the box into groups. This is easy to do if labeling was carried out. In this case, there are four pairs. The first (here - from left to right): the wire of phase L of the power cable and the wire L, going from the box to the switch. Second: two blue neutral wires N - power cable and going to the lamp. The third is similar to the second, but only with green-yellow PE wires. Fourth - wires L1 from the switch and from the lighting fixture.
	Now we need to connect these pairs. As mentioned above, this can be done using twists. But this example shows the use of Wago clamp terminals. You will need four terminals for two contacts.
	The switch has been made.
	The box can be immediately closed with a plug.
	If the home wiring system does not have a ground loop, or the lighting fixture is made of dielectric materials and does not require grounding, the task is simplified. In this case, a two-core cable is laid from the box to the luminaire.
	And in the box, only three connecting nodes are obtained, that is, three terminals are enough for switching.
	After the complete completion of the work on laying home wiring, the room is finished.
	Now you can finally install the switch in place. Wires are connected to the terminals - one at the input, the second at the output. There is no fundamental difference in this case, where L will be, and where L1 will not. But with more complex schemes, which will be considered further, this may be of importance.
	Everything, the switch after fixing it in the socket can be closed with a decorative cover, put the key in place.
	After that, it remains to screw the lamps into the lamp, finally assemble it by installing the ceiling. Well, then - power the line on the machine in the switch cabinet and evaluate the performance of the system by checking the switching on and off of the light. Everything should work flawlessly.

The reader probably noticed that nothing is said about installing the switch itself in the socket box. The fact is that the designs of models differ in great variety. And how, in what sequence to disassemble the device, how to clamp the terminal connections - all cases cannot be counted. And the fixation of the switch in the socket box is practically no different from installing (not to be confused with electrical installation!) An outlet or other built-in device. And this is already described in detail on the pages of our portal. So repeating doesn't make much sense. It is better to focus on the switch circuit diagrams.

How to install an outlet in an apartment?

With this task, subject to all the safety requirements of work and following the schemes and technological recommendations, any homeowner should cope. With all the details, with several step-by-step examples, this is described in a special article on our portal “How to connect an outlet”.

Two-gang switch

This switch allows you to control the lighting of two separate lamps (groups of lamps), or to switch groups of lamps separately, for example, in one multi-track chandelier.

• Two-gang switches may vary. The most commonly used model has one common (paralleled) phase input and two separate outputs. Its scheme can be represented as follows:

It is obvious that each of the keys controls its group of lighting fixtures completely independently of the other. For example, often such switches are placed in front of the bathroom and toilet - you can turn on the light in any room or in both at the same time. Or, in an application to one lamp. The first key turns on one or two light bulbs, the light of which is sufficient for a normal rest. The second key - uses a little more lamps, that is, the light will be brighter. But when full lighting is required, both keys are turned on and all the horns are lit.

The diagram below will help the master who encounters this issue for the first time better understand the principle of connection.

In the mounting box, zero wires diverge to the fixtures. The phase wire is connected to the input of a two-gang switch. And from each of the outputs through the mounting box there is a separate conductor, each to its own lamp. Their inclusion can be carried out separately, independently of one another, or simultaneously.

It is clear that a three-core cable should already be laid from the mounting box to the switch. And here it is already necessary to pay special attention to the correct marking of wires, as mentioned above. The colors of the insulation of the wires converging in the box can often match, and thus mislead an inexperienced installer.

We must say right away that a three-gang switch is connected according to the same principle. It just increases the number of wires extending from it.

• When purchasing a two-gang switch, you should exercise some care. The fact is that, although rare, there are still models with a separate phase input. On a diagram, it might look like this:

Note: the specified marking of the terminal contacts is very conditional. In this matter, by the way, manufacturers do not have unanimity. There are completely arbitrary digital and alphanumeric signatures of contacts, or even symbols in the form of arrows. But in combination with the diagram, usually applied on the back of the switch housing, it is not difficult to deal with each specific case.

It is clear that the circuit shown above is not quite suitable for such a switch. True, if you already managed to buy just such a model by mistake, everything is decided by installing a jumper that closes both contacts at the input.

Such switches are also used. It is clear that bringing two different phases into one socket is complete madness. But sometimes circumstances force you to draw lines from two different circuit breakers. Although this seems to be an extremely inexpedient and cumbersome solution.

You can use a similar device for some sophisticated lighting control circuits. For example, it is required to organize switching in such a way that the inclusion of a group of lamps depends on whether another group is turned on. In this case, you can install a jumper between the output of one "channel" and the input of another. If you look at the illustration above, then between L1 and L2.

What this achieves is shown by the following diagram.

The green color shows the jumper connecting the output of the left key to the input of the right one.

A phase wire is connected directly to the input of the left key. And in her work she is completely independent. That is, its inclusion leads to the inclusion of devices connected to this line. But if it is turned off, then the second key will not work - the circuit in the second line is open. But when the first one is turned on, then the second one can already “lead its team”.

There are such cases infrequently, but, who knows, maybe a similar option will come in handy.

Connecting a walk-through switch

Imagine these situations:

• Spacious entrance hall. The owner returned home after dark, turned on the light at the entrance, took off his shoes, undressed. And then forced to turn off the light and make his way in the dark to the door to the room. Uncomfortable. It begs the opportunity to turn off the light at the exit from the hallway.
• A long corridor, passing through which it will also be more convenient to turn on the light at the entrance and turn it off at the exit.
• A walk-through common room or hall, from where several doors lead to neighboring rooms. It would be nice to be able to control the lighting from each of them.

And there are many such options. To solve this problem, it is necessary to use pass-through switches, the name of which already speaks for itself.

By and large, these are not even switches, but switches. Outwardly, they look like the usual single-key. Often they are marked with a distinctive badge in the form of multidirectional vertical arrows. But here the scheme of their internal switching differs from the usual single-key ones and looks like this:

Two positions of the switch key correspond to two switching options - to one or the second output. And such switches in a common system are always used in pairs.

The scheme of their electrical installation may look like this:

We begin to understand.

With a neutral wire - no change.

The phase wire from the box goes to the input of one of the switches. A wire going to the lamp is connected to the input contact of the second switch. (Both shown in brown).

Output No. 2 of the first switch is connected through a mounting box with a wire to output No. 3 of the second. (Highlighted in purple).

And, accordingly, exit No. 3 of the first - with exit No. 2 of the second.

Thus, it turns out that a three-core cable must be connected to each single-key switch.

In the position shown in the diagram, it is quite obvious that the power supply circuit of the lamp is open. But it is worth moving the key to another position on any of the switches, as the circuit closes. And vice versa - when the lighting is on, any of the switches is able to break the circuit.

By the way, the switching of output contacts shown here is not a dogma at all. It's just that with such a scheme, the same position of the keys (both up or both down) of the pass-through switches means a circuit break. Unequal - inclusion. But nothing prevents the contacts of the same name from being connected to each other - just operation and disconnection will occur with other key positions. Not essential.

The animated illustration below clearly shows how such a circuit works with two pass-through switches.

Pass-through switches can be two- or even three-key, that is, capable of controlling two or three lighting devices (groups of devices) according to the same principle. We will not give the scheme - it is not fundamentally different. Only, of course, the number of wires is increasing.

Cross switch application

But what if you want to have three or even more lighting control points? For example, on the switch at the head of the masters' beds in the bedroom and at the entrance to the room? Or at each of the exits of a spacious hall with many doors?

There is a solution to this problem as well. To do this, together with a pair of pass-through switches, another one is used. It is called cross or intermediate.

The cross switch can also be one- or two-button. For external distinction, an image is often applied on its front side in the form of multidirectional horizontal arrows or in the form of a lattice.

Consider a simpler option - single-key. It has a switching scheme.

There are four terminals in a single-key cross switch, that is, four wires must be supplied to it from the junction box. And they are nothing more than those conductors that connect the output terminals of the feed-through switches. That is, in fact, a cross switch is placed in the gap of this pair of wires. An example is shown in the diagram below:

How it works is clearly demonstrated by the following illustration:

It is already difficult to paint all the possible options here - there are quite a lot of them. But it is possible to unequivocally summarize the main thing. In whatever position the switches are located when the system is not working, changing the position of any of them will immediately turn on the lighting. And vice versa - when the light is on, it is enough to switch any key to make it go out. That is, lighting control can be completely equivalent to be performed from any of the points.

Another interesting feature is that the number of cross switches between the gates is not limited by anything. And no matter how many of them are installed according to this principle, they will all be able to control the connected lighting device with absolutely equal success.

So, the main, most commonly used circuits for connecting switches were considered. The only question that remained was not entirely clarified - where is it better to place them? There are also quite definite recommendations on this subject. We will not paint them here - they are very well set out in the video below.

Video: How to place switches in the apartment more correctly and with maximum convenience?

poptiz.ru

Switch how to connect

How to connect the switch correctly | For home, for family

Hello dear readers of the site sesaga.ru. Many are faced with such a problem as connecting a switch. It's actually quite simple. The main thing is to have a minimal understanding of electricity from a school physics course and the ability to work with a bench tool.

It's one thing to simply replace an old switch with a new one, but it's another to add a new one to existing wiring. Consider the possible options for connecting circuit breakers.

Attention! Perform all work on replacing switches with the 220V voltage turned off.

As you can see the circuit is very simple. The phase (brown color) with a wire (1) enters the box and, connecting with the core wire (2), is connected to the lower (input) contact of the switch. From the upper (output) contact, already a dotted line, the phase wire (2) enters the box and, connecting in the box with the wire wire (3), comes to the light bulb. Zero (blue color) with a wire (1) enters the box and, connecting with a residential wire (3), comes to a light bulb.

Remember! The zero core (zero) from the junction box goes directly to the ceiling to the light bulb. Only the phase wire goes to the switch and from it to the light bulb. This is provided for by the rules and done for your safety and the safe operation of electrical equipment, so that when the switch is turned off, it is the phase that breaks, and not zero. Since when disconnecting from the load with a neutral wire switch, the wiring remains under phase voltage, and this is dangerous and inconvenient. For example, when replacing a light bulb, it will be enough to turn off the switch and there will be no voltage on the lamp.

To determine the phase wire, it is enough to use an indicator screwdriver. Before work, the screwdriver is checked for serviceability, in a place that is known to be energized. For example, your outlet. The illuminated indicator indicates the presence of a phase.

Now consider a circuit with a two-gang switch.

In this circuit, one phase and a light bulb were added. Here, the phase (brown) with a wire (1) enters the box, connecting with a residential wire (2) is connected to the lower (input) contacts of the switch. From the upper (output) contacts with a dotted line, the phase, multiplying by two, enters the box with a wire (2), connects to the cores of the wire (3) and comes to the light bulbs. Depending on which contact of the switch is closed, such a light bulb lights up. Zero (blue color) with a wire (1) enters the box and, connecting with a residential wire (3), comes to the light bulbs.

There is one nuance here. If you want to replace a conventional switch with a double one, then you will have to pull one “phase” wire from the box to the switch, and another “phase” wire to the light bulb.

To determine the input and output contacts according to the diagram, just look at the back of the switch. A double, as a rule, has three outputs: two on one side (L1 and L2) are outputs, and one on the opposite side (L3) is input.

You can also use a measuring device, such as a multimeter. Switch the multimeter to the “ringing” mode, and use the measuring probes to sit on the intended input and one output contacts. Turning the switch on and off, we monitor the readings of the device. If the contact closes, the multimeter will beep or the indicator will show the value of the short circuit resistance, that is, zeros.

Now we leave one probe of the multimeter at the intended input, and with the other we sit on the second output contact and also try to press the next switch key. If the device shows the value of the short circuit resistance or emits a sound signal, then we did everything right and the input contact was found.

Well, if you still have questions about connecting the switch, watch the video, which should dispel them.

And in the next post you will learn how to properly connect the chandelier to the double switch. Good luck!

How to connect a single-gang switch

Good day, dear guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

A small preface.

Remember, a few days ago I installed an apartment electrical panel? So yesterday the owner of this apartment called me asking for help.

According to him, the “light” disappeared in the corridor. I also suggested to him by phone that I check the serviceability of the lighting lamp, but he told me that he had checked the lamp and that it was working. Then I decided to visit him and see why there is no lighting in the corridor. But I told him that his electrical wiring needs to be replaced, to which he convincingly assured me of the opposite.

Beginning of work

And here I am. Taking my tool, I once again checked the serviceability of the lamp in the corridor. The lamp was really good. After that I started troubleshooting. I will say right away that I did not have to look for a long time.

But about everything in order, so that you can imagine what is at stake.

A few words about the switch itself and the place of its installation. The single-gang indoor switch is located in the corridor. This is how it looks.

This switch turns on the lighting in the hallway. Lighting is made in the form of a single energy-saving lamp. Therefore, in this article we will consider the connection diagram of a single-gang switch for one light bulb.

In the article on how to hang a chandelier, you will learn all the ways to install and fix a chandelier.

Connection diagram of a single-gang switch

This is the simplest switch wiring diagram. I think it will not cause you any difficulties, because. The switch only has 2 wires.

From the apartment panel, power (phase - red wire, zero - blue wire) comes to the junction box, which is located in the corridor.

It's important to know!!! Read the article on how to properly connect the wires in the junction box.

The phase (red) is connected in the junction box to the wire (red) that goes to the switch. From the switch, the wire (orange) goes back to the junction box, where it connects to the wire (orange) going to the load (lamp). This is the switched phase to the lamp.

Zero (blue) is connected in the junction box with a wire (blue), which immediately goes to the load (light bulb). It is convenient to use Vago terminals for connecting wires in a junction box.

Here is a similar circuit, only instead of one light bulb, five are connected.

Attention!!! The switch should always break the phase, and not zero.

All this is necessary for the sake of our own electrical safety. When replacing the lamp, it will be enough to turn off the switch, and there will be no voltage in the cartridge. Change yourself calmly. If you mix it up and switch zero with the switch, then when you replace the lamp, it will remain energized in any case. And this is very dangerous. Read my articles about the effect of electric current on a person and an industrial accident (example).

If you are interested in how to connect a two-gang switch, then read my article about the connection diagram of a two-gang switch.

We are looking for a malfunction

Let's get back to the problem.

So, having unscrewed the light bulb from the cartridge (E27) and turned on the switch, we check with the help of a voltage indicator whether the phase (orange in the figure) comes from the switch to the lamp or not. In our case, the phase does not come to the lamp. This indicates the following faults. Either the switch itself is faulty, or the wiring from the switch to the lamp is open (see the switch wiring diagram).

Having removed the key, we will see the screws securing the switch to the socket and the screws securing the wires to the switch. This is where we need to make sure that there is a phase on the outputs.

To do this, we again use the low voltage indicator "Contact-55EM", and measure the incoming and outgoing phases.

And here we were in for a "surprise".

The phase came to the switch, but did not leave it. This indicates that the switch itself is faulty. Therefore, it must be removed.

We turn off the voltage in the apartment using an automatic switch. By the way, this is a feature of this particular apartment. If you have several lines (groups) in your apartment or floor switchboard, then, accordingly, turn off the machine of the line (group) where the work will be carried out.

Then we unscrew the screws that secure the switch and carefully bend it. Please note that I have not yet unscrewed the screws for attaching the wires.

And what do we see?

And we see the following. One of the wires fell out of the switch terminal.

And we also see that the color marking of the wires is completely absent. This was to be expected, because. The electrical wiring in the apartment is quite old.

The reason for the dropped wire is the weak pull of the wire fastening screws.

Completion of works

The fault has been corrected, the wire is inserted back into the terminal and the screws are tightened.

The switch is connected. It remains only to insert it into the metal socket and tighten the screws securing the switch.

Now you can check your work. We turn on the voltage in the disconnected section of the circuit and check the operation of the single-gang switch. Everything is working properly.

By the way, do you know why the energy-saving lamp blinks?

P.S. Well, this is where we will finish the article, where I told you about the connection diagram of a single-gang switch and how to troubleshoot the wiring.

zametkielectrica.ru

Step-by-step instructions on how to properly connect the switch to the lamp

During the overhaul or construction of the facility, you need to think in advance about where the lighting fixtures and switches will be located. If you have already decided on their location, then it's time to think about how to put it all together and make it work correctly and properly for many years.

General Wiring Notes

1. Installation and connection of electrical installation devices, that is, sockets and switches, is carried out only when the mains is turned off.
2. The electrical wire is laid only in a straight line, both in horizontal and vertical directions.
3. If the building is wooden, then the electrical wire is laid over the wall. Direct contact of the electrical wire and the wall surface is not allowed. It is wound either in a corrugation, or mounted on special insulators, which are made of non-conductive materials.
4. In stone buildings, brick, panel, monolithic houses, electrical wiring is laid under the plaster.

The electrical wire consists of current-carrying conductors and a sheath. There can be two or more lived in an electric wire. Usually two and three-core wires are used. One of the cores serves to create a continuous network. No voltage is applied to it. It is called the empty or zero phase. The remaining cores are called working phases or cores. She or they supply electricity to electrical appliances.

Tools and materials for installation

What materials and tools do we need to install and connect the switch to the light bulb?

• Switch.
• Electric wire. In our case, it does not matter which electrical wire will be used, copper or aluminum. But, if the entire electrical network of an apartment or house is made of copper wire, then you need to install copper. If aluminum, then aluminum.
• distribution boxes. They are used for laying electrical connections. Don't be afraid to put junction boxes. When using boxes, the probability of breaking the integrity of the connections is reduced, which means that the risk of a short circuit is reduced.
• Electric screwdriver. We will need it to determine the working and zero phases in the electrical wire, to check the presence of current in the network.
• Wire cutters. They will be needed to cut the wire.
• Pliers. With their help, stronger twists of wires are made.
• Insulating tape and gray. Wire connections, bare ends must be insulated. They are wrapped with electrical tape, then put on a PPE connection. It is a cap and ensures a secure connection.
• fastening element. When working on wooden surfaces, you will need clamps. With their help, the corrugation is attached to the wall. When installing the wire on a stone surface, you will need clips, clamps, self-tapping screws, dowels. But the most reliable fastener is still considered to be a strip cut from an aluminum can with a nail in the middle.
• Socket box. It is a device made of steel or polymeric materials, shaped like a glass. A socket box is designed for installing a switch or socket.
• Perforator. It will be needed in order to open the plaster, in other words, to pierce, to make holes. If the switch is placed in a new place or for the first time, then you will also need a cutter the size of the bottom of the socket. With its help, a hole is made in the wall, into which a socket is then placed.

We determine the type of switch we need

The design of the switch is a housing in which a block with current-receiving elements and an interrupting device are installed. The most commonly used key interrupt device. There can be one or more keys in the switch. Basically, one and two key switches are used.

There are several types of switches:

There is no need to describe each device separately. Since their installation does not have fundamental differences from the installation of a single-gang switch. We need it to connect the light bulb. Let's go back to its design.

The block of such a switch is equipped with two contacts and one interrupt key. The design may include a mechanism for fixing the block in the socket. Usually it consists of two metal petals, the position of which is adjusted with screws. In the free position, the petals are lowered, in the open position they rest against the walls of the box.

Explanation of wiring diagram for easier understanding

Let's describe the connection diagram of a switch that works with one lighting device, in our case with a light bulb. I must say that the switch is always placed on the working core, phase. That is, it interrupts the supply of electricity to the light bulb. Leaving it under constant load is dangerous.

The wires of the general apartment electrical network, the wires coming from the switch and the wires that come from the bulb's electric cartridge are brought into the junction box. One of the wires of the cartridge is connected to the neutral conductor of the general electrical network, the second to the residential wire coming from the switch. The second core of the switch wire is connected to the working phase of the general electrical network. Thus, the working conductor of the cartridge is connected to the working residential electrical network through a switch. When the switch is turned on, the load is applied to the light bulb, when it is turned off, it is interrupted.

Marking the places of installation of electrical appliances

Before starting installation work, you need to mark out how the switch will be located, the electrical wire on the wall, ceiling, where the light bulb will be installed. Perhaps it will not stand on the ceiling, but on one of the walls. The switch is placed near the door leading to the room, at a distance of about 30 cm. If the room is a walk-through, then near the doorway leading to the adjacent room, at a distance of about 25 - 30 cm. The switch can be installed at a height from the floor, starting from 30 cm and up to 1.6m.

If we mount an additional light bulb on the wall, then the switch is placed at the level of the sockets. After we have marked the location of the switch, we draw a straight line up to the ceiling. In this place you will need to put a junction box. Mark the center of the room on the ceiling. A block will be installed here, on which a wire with an electric cartridge is installed. From it we draw a straight line to the wall with a switch.

We lead another line along the wall to the place where the junction box will stand. By the way, at the junction of the wires running along the wall and along the ceiling, you also need to install a junction box. Then we measure the length of the wire, cut the segments and proceed to installation.

We carry out the installation of the switch with our own hands

Installation begins with the installation of the switch. If we mount it on a wooden surface, then first a plate is placed, made of a material that does not conduct electricity, for example, plastic or well-dried wood. Then the junction box is installed. Then we connect the wire to the switch, we wind it into the corrugation and fasten it to the wall.

On the ceiling we install a special block that has two current-receiving contacts. It is also installed on the plate. In the future, a wire with a light bulb will be connected to this block. A piece of wire intended for the ceiling is wound into a corrugation and led to a wall with a switch. On the wall we start it in a separate junction box. We take another piece of wire, enclose it in a corrugation and lead to the main junction box. Naturally, we fasten all segments with the wall and ceiling.

Then we connect a wire with an electric cartridge and a light bulb to the block on the ceiling. Typically, these pads are equipped with a screw connection. The end of the bare wire can be inserted into the terminal and then pressed with a bolt. It can also be connected directly with a bolt, that is, the ends of the wires are wound around the bolt and pressed against it. Next, twist the ends of the wires in the first junction box. For a tighter twist, you can use pliers.

We carefully isolate the twists and cover with sizami. Then we turn off the power supply and open the ends of the common electrical network. We turn on the electricity again. We find with the help of an electric indicator screwdriver the zero phase of the common network. When touching the working core, the screwdriver indicator lights up. When touching zero - no. We mark the zero phase and turn off the electricity.

Connection of wires in the junction box

We put all the ends into the junction box, that is, the wires of the general network, the wires of the switch and the wires of the light bulb. We connect them. One end of the wire from the light bulb is connected to the neutral core of the common network, the second - to one of the ends of the switch wire. The remaining free end of the switch wire is connected to the working core of the general network.

We twist all connections tightly with pliers and isolate with electrical tape. On top of the connections we put on the siz. We connect electricity. Turn on, check. If the light comes on, close the boxes and use. If not, check connections. We will talk about possible malfunctions a little lower.

Features of installing wires under plaster

Installation of a switch in a stone building has some differences from installation in a wooden house. Electrical wiring in such buildings is laid under the plaster. If the switch is mounted on a plastered wall, then it is ditched, that is, with the help of a perforator, a channel is laid in the plaster for laying the wire and installing the socket box. The plaster is removed to the stone wall. All other steps for installation on a plastered wall are exactly the same as on a non-plastered wall.

Laying electricians in concrete walls without plaster

If the installation is carried out on a bare, non-plastered wall, then first, using a puncher equipped with a cutter, a recess is made for installing the socket box. It is fastened in this recess with dowels or alabaster. The wire is attached to the wall using clamps, clips, or using the homemade fasteners described above. Fasteners do not need to be sorry. You need to put it at a distance of no more than 20 cm from each other. Junction boxes are also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws and dowels.

Gutters in slabs - electrician's assistants

Floor slabs in stone houses have gutters inside. The electrical wire to the light bulb placed on the ceiling goes along one of these gutters. To do this, two holes are punched using a perforator. One is at the point where the wire enters the slab. The other is in the place where the block for mounting the cartridge and light bulb will be located. The block, to which the electric cartridge with the bulb will be attached, is placed on the plate.

If the plate is wooden, then it is simply glued to the surface of the ceiling. If it is made of other materials, then it is either glued or fastened to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. The case is removed from the switch, connected to the wire and fixed in the socket. To do this, there is a mounting mechanism on the switch block. The bolts in the mechanism are tightened so that the switch stands firmly in the socket and does not swing.

Then twist all connections, isolate them. Then they mark the zero core of the common network and turn off the electricity. Next, connect the switch and the light bulb to the common network according to the above scheme. The zero core of the working network is connected to the zero phase of the light bulb. The ends of the wire of the switch are connected to a working residential common network and from a working residential light bulb. Carefully isolate and turn on electricity. Turn on the switch and check. Lights up, you can use it. No, we're checking connections. After the installation is completed, the surfaces are plastered.

Before starting plastering work, the switch is removed. Put it finally after finishing the surface of the wall. At the time of its implementation, the bare ends are isolated. And the socket is closed with something.

Installing a light bulb on the wall

The installation of a switch for a light bulb mounted on a wall does not fundamentally differ from the installation described above. If there is no installed junction box and wire on the wall, then you will have to pull it from the common junction box. And the wiring diagram is the same. We put the box, we start the wires from the common network, the switch and the wall device into it, we connect the light bulb to the zero residential common network, the switch from the working residential light bulb and the common network. After the installation is completed, the corrugation in which the wire is laid should be closed with a decorative box.

Possible malfunctions

If after installation the light does not light up, then it is possible that the wires are badly twisted. You need to check the connections. For this, there is no need to check each. You need to start with the wires included in the switch. We take an indicator screwdriver and check whether electricity is supplied to the switch. Touch the screwdriver to the ends of the wire entering the switch in turn. If the indicator is off, then there is a problem with the connection to the public network.

Once again, we twist the wires connecting the working phases of the switch and the general network, having previously turned off the electricity. Let's check again. If the current is supplied, and the light is still off, then the fault is either in the switch or in the rest of the electrical circuit.

If the switch is working, then the indicator should light up when you touch both of its contacts. If the indicator lights up only on one of the contacts, then the switch is faulty. It is better to replace it immediately. A defective item will not work for a long time. If the switch is OK, check each connection until we find the fault.

Detailed explanation in video format

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How to wire a light switch

In this article, you will learn how to properly install a light switch. Switches are used to control electrical lighting sources in residential and commercial areas. In most cases, switches are mounted on the wall. The location, the height at which they are installed, the shape of the switches vary from country to country. Switches come in various types: single or multi-gang, for installation indoors or outdoors, etc. Installing and connecting the switch is a simple task, provided that you understand the basic principles of electrical networks and follow safety precautions when carrying out electrical work.

In this article, we will show you step by step how to install the switch. For this you will need:

Instruments:

• voltage indicator;
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• level;
• protective gloves and goggles.

• before starting work, turn off the power in your apartment;
• before touching the wires, use a voltage indicator on each wire to make sure that the power supply is off;
• if you are in doubt, if you do not want to take risks, it is better to hire a professional electrician.

Preparatory work

The first thing you should do is turn off the power. Some people believe that it is enough to turn off only the circuit on which the switch is to be installed, but we strongly recommend that you completely turn off the power to your apartment.

Using a voltage indicator on each wire, make sure it's safe to touch them. It is better to check several times before starting work.

Power outage.

The next step of the project is cleaning the socket box (installation box) from paint, small pieces of drywall, dust and dirt. This operation is very important, especially when it comes to a newly renovated room or an apartment in a new building. But even if you're replacing an old switch, it's best to assess the condition of the socket beforehand to make sure the new switch can be installed and aligned properly.

Preparing the socket for installing the switch.

After you have bought a new switch, you must disassemble it with a screwdriver or simply by hand, depending on its type and manufacturer. This operation is indispensable, since you will be connecting electrical wires to the inside of the switch. It is necessary to remove the switch buttons and the frame.

Broken switch.

Now you have to connect the wiring. Using pliers, cut off the excess length of the wires - they should protrude from the wall by about 15 cm. This length should be enough to connect the switch without much difficulty. Do not leave the wires too long, otherwise it will be difficult to place them inside the socket.

Cutting wires.

Having cut the wires to the desired length, you can proceed to the next step. Using pliers, peel off about 2 cm of insulation from each wire. It is dangerous to strip a long length, since bare wires during operation can accidentally come into contact, causing a short circuit.

Using pliers, shape the end of each wire into an L-shape (or C-shape for some switches with side screws).

Tip: The easiest and most effective way to strip a wire is to use wire stripping pliers.

Removing insulation from wires.

Connecting wires to a light switch

You probably noticed that the wires are colored differently: the brown wire is live, the yellow-green wire is ground. (The wire insulation color coding standards differ from country to country.) Each of these wires must be connected to a specific connector.

How to connect the switch correctly? There are slight differences in the connection of one-gang and two-gang switches. The main thing to remember: the phase must open, the phase wire is attached to the connector marked L (usually at the bottom of the switch).

After you place the end of each wire in your connector, secure them with screws using a screwdriver for this purpose. Make sure the wires are secure, otherwise the switch will not work properly.

Connecting wires to the switch.

Once again, make sure that the wires are connected correctly and securely fastened. In the picture below, you can see how to connect a two-gang light switch.

How to connect a switch with two keys.

Once you have finished connecting the wires, you must bend them to "hide" them in the box. Make sure there is enough space left to place the switch. If there is no problem, you can fix the switch in the box with screws. Don't be in a hurry to tighten the screws too tight, you should first check how well the switch is aligned.

Placement of the switch in the box.

Use a level, laser or spirit level to level the switch. In the figure below, you can see the technique for this operation. If you notice a horizontal deviation, loosen the screws and correct the position of the switch.

Switch alignment.

Do not forget to securely fix the switch with screws in the final. Just don't overdo it or you risk stripping the screw threads or damaging the switch.

Switch mount.

The next step is to mount the frame and switch buttons in place. You don't need any tools for this, just your fingers. A slight press, and the elements removed at the very beginning are again in their places.

This operation is perhaps the easiest. In addition, it portends an imminent completion of work.

Installation of switch buttons.

It remains to turn on the power on the electrical panel. Turn on the light with the new, freshly installed switch to make sure your work hasn't been in vain and everything is functioning as it should. Is the light on? So now you know how to connect a light switch.

Installed switch.

Translation source: http://www.howtospecialist.com

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diagram and how to connect, installation instead of a switch, how to correctly Viko, is it possible to lamp

Connecting a dimmer is quite easy, which everyone can easily handle.Sometimes it becomes necessary to change the intensity of lighting. This can be done using special lighting dimmers, which are called dimmers. Most of them are mounted as a switch. It is worth noting that the dimmer connection diagram is very simple, therefore, you can completely cope with this task yourself.

This device is used to regulate the brightness level of lamps, as well as control the temperature of heating devices. They work most effectively with incandescent lamps, allowing you to significantly extend their service life, since a minimum current is supplied to the lamp. Important! With fluorescent lamps, this dimmer cannot be used, as it simply will not work, or the lamp will flash all the time. In this case, it is recommended to select more functional and modern devices.

Dimmer connection diagram

Conventional dimmers are used to connect LED lamps.

Modern devices may have a number of additional features, such as:

• Shutdown by timer;
• Acoustic control;
• Lighting regulation;
• Possibility of remote control;
• Various lamp modes.

The simplest devices can only adjust the brightness of the lighting. The dimmer element has its own specific features and disadvantages that must be taken into account. The easiest way to control brightness is to use a rheostat. Such a device gets very hot, so an additional cooling system is required.

Electronic dimmers can be made on the basis of transistors or triacs. They cannot be used together with equipment that is demanding on the features of the power supply. It is very important to properly connect the power supply circuit. When choosing this device, it is important not only to consider what type they belong to, but also the nature of the load.

In apartments and private houses, monoblock dimmers are often installed. In houses, a modular design can also be used, which will allow the brightness of the illumination of the local area.

Relatively recently, the only available option for adjusting the brightness of lighting fixtures was the installation of a rheostat.

Now a dimmer is used instead. It can be connected as a conventional switch, that is, to break the power supply circuit of the lighting device. The dimensions of such a regulator and fasteners for it completely coincide with the parameters of a conventional switch.

There are several different types of such a device, in particular, such as:

• Sensory;
• LED;
• Turning;
• push;
• Single;
• Double.

The LED dimmer helps to quickly and efficiently produce the results obtained, as well as smoothly adjust the supply of light fluxes. Touch dimmer - a dimmer with the ability to control the luminous flux by lightly touching a certain part of the button. Additionally, it can be equipped with an infrared receiver for remote control. Rotary dimmer implies a slight rotation of the control element.

A single device can be supplied for a single lamp or a group of lighting fixtures combined into one group. A two-button dimmer is designed to control several light sources at once. Rotary regulators are the most widely used, since the control of the intensity of illumination is carried out by simply turning the knob in the required direction.

How to connect a dimmer

The dimmer is designed not only to turn the chandelier on and off, but also helps to smoothly adjust the brightness of the lighting. This makes it possible to significantly save on electricity consumption. An electrician can install a dimmer or it is quite possible to do it yourself, since connecting it does not cause any difficulties.

In order to connect a dimmer, you must follow the step-by-step instructions

The simplest dimmer can be connected in just a few minutes, since it has only 2 outputs. However, even if you do not strictly adhere to the rules of polarity, the device will still work.

To connect a dimmer, you need:

• Turn off the power;
• Dismantle the old switch;
• Connect the appropriate wires;
• Install it in the mounting box;
• Fasten with special paws.

After everything is ready, you need to turn on the power again and check the operation of the device. It is worth noting that the dimmer only works with a certain type of load, which is why it is important to choose the right lamps.

To be able to work with LED lamps, you must definitely purchase special devices. When buying a dimmer, you need to clarify what light sources it can work with.

The dimmer is considered one of the most economical elements of the electrical network. Installing it helps save energy and pay for much less kW, as it helps to dim the lighting of one or more lighting fixtures at once. To determine which dimmer is needed, it is important to understand what such devices are in terms of performance.

In particular, we can distinguish such types of devices as:

• Modular;
• On a cord;
• Monoblock.

Installation of modular devices is carried out in the electrical panel. The scheme of their connection and execution is very simple. The dimmer works with incandescent and halogen lamps through step-down transformers. To make it convenient to use, the device has a key switch or button. It mainly serves to control the brightness level at the entrance gate, courtyard lighting and flights of stairs.

The device on the cord helps to regulate the power of the sconces and other lighting devices that are not connected to the mains, but are connected through a socket and plug. This type of switch only works with incandescent lamps. It can even be attached to an LED strip. Monoblock is similar to an ordinary switch, and works well with any kind of lamp.

Types of devices and how to connect a dimmer correctly

A dimmer is a dimming device, the principle of which is to smoothly regulate the voltage level that is supplied to a spotlight or chandelier.

Among the most popular types are the following:

• Viko;
• Schneider electric;
• Anam legrand;
• Werkel;
• Universal;
• ALT400903
• Makel.

To choose the right type of dimmer, you must first consult with a specialist. Among the best devices, it is necessary to highlight models from the company Lezard, Anam Legrand, Vico, Schneider. These companies have been producing products for the electrical network for a long time and have earned the most positive feedback. To connect the device, the dimmable device must first be de-energized, and then the wire must be connected to the appropriate terminals. It is worth noting that the dimmer can be external and internal, therefore, it can be easily selected for an open and closed electrical network.

Installing a dimmer

To control the brightness level of the lamps, you need to install a dimmer, which will help reduce power consumption. Installing a dimmer is no different from mounting a conventional key switch. If necessary, it can be very easily disassembled for repair or mounting of another device. It is worth remembering that grounding is required to install a touch-type dimmer.

Before installing a dimmer, you must first turn off the power

Initially, you need to turn off the power and dismantle the old switch, and then:

• Take out the key;
• Remove frame;
• Unscrew the bolts;
• Loosen the mounting tabs;
• Get the switch;
• Disconnect cable.

Connect and install the dimmer. Step by step repeat the entire process that was carried out before, dismantling the old switch, only in reverse order. It is worth remembering that, unlike the most ordinary switch, which works regardless of the order in which the wires are connected. It is important to connect the outgoing and incoming wires to each other.

How to install a dimmer with your own hands (video)

Installing a dimmer does not present any difficulties at all, the most important thing is to follow the instructions clearly, as well as observe safety precautions. If necessary, you can very quickly and easily turn off the dimmer, carry out repairs, and then connect it back.

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Viko has done everything to make their switches easy and simple to connect.

Viko is one of those companies that can adequately represent Turkey in the international market.

Since its founding in 1988, Viko has been on a course to meet the demand for products such as sockets, switches, extension cords, accessories and boxes for machines.

Initially, the company's policy was aimed not only at meeting domestic demand in Turkey, but also for the supply of its goods for export.

As a result, today more than 70% of all Viko products are exported, which indicates the high quality of their products.

Thanks to the use of high quality raw materials and materials, as well as high quality requirements for manufactured products, today viko is one of the largest suppliers of switches, sockets and other electrical items.

The pricing policy of the company provides coverage of the lower and middle segment. Viko is, first of all, reliability, durability and practicality in use, but not design "excesses"

Nevertheless, if you decide to install Viko switches in your apartment, then you can always find sockets, trims, horizontal and vertical frames in the same style - all this helps to maintain a single style in the interior design of your home.

Switch brand Viko series Carmen

Among Viko products, the most popular among Russian consumers is the Carmen series of products.

This is due to both an attractive price and versatility of application to almost any interior.

A convex square with rounded corners in two basic colors, white and cream, fits almost any interior and is actively used by electricians.

Switches of this series are single-key, two-key, three-key, pass-through, with and without illumination.

All of them work flawlessly and do not require any maintenance during the entire period of operation.

In addition, elements from Viko switches / sockets from other series are always on sale, so you can easily always change the design to a more acceptable one, for example, from the Karre or Vera series.

Materials and tools for installation:

So, if you opted for the Viko switch and want to connect it yourself, then you will need the following materials and tools:

• Cable - it is better to use copper, because. copper is a better conductor than aluminum and the service life of such a cable is much longer.
• cable stripper
• Flat screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Voltage indicator (probe)

All Viko switches are mounted very simply and there are practically no special conditions.

The procedure for carrying out the work is the same.

Disassembly

The switches are sold assembled and must be disassembled before installation, for this:

• Pry off the switch buttons with a flat screwdriver and remove them
• Pry off the transparent plastic cover under the keys with a screwdriver and remove it too
• Separate the decorative trim from the metal frame.

This whole procedure takes less than one minute, to assemble the switch you will have to repeat all these steps in reverse order.

Wiring diagram

two-gang switch wiring diagram

single-gang switch circuit

So, when the switch is disassembled, depending on which type of release you have chosen, you need to connect it.

The wiring diagram is not much different. In any case, one wire (phase) comes to the switch, and one, two or three wires leave it, if you connect one-key, two-key and three-key switches, respectively.

Illuminated two-gang Viko switch

However, despite the simplicity of the design, some people have questions about installing Viko illuminated switches.

Indeed, many choose these types of switches for their practicality.

The weak red glow of the indicator makes it easy to find the light switch in the dark and, of course, this has its undeniable advantages.

Indicators in Viko switches must be connected independently.

If you chose this type of design, then after removing the keys (as described above), you will find an LED from which two red wires extend.

These wires must be connected in such a way that one of them is connected to the "input" - at the bottom, and the second to one of the "outputs" at the top.

In this case, the polarity does not matter. The indicator will light up when the switch key to the “output” of which you connected it is in the “OFF” state

Wall mounting

Before mounting the switch on the wall:

1. Using a voltage indicator, find the wire through which the phase fits and separate it from all other wires
2. Turn off the power supply to the switch

Helpful Hint: Before carrying out installation work on any electrical appliances, make sure that the power is turned off. Hang a warning sign on the bags, such as "Do not turn on, people are working!"

Further actions should be carried out only with the electricity turned off:

Video instructions for installing a Viko backlit switch

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How to connect a three-gang switch | ABVEY

Modern trends in lighting control systems are developing not only in the direction of comfortable operation and diverse design, but also in increasing the level of economy. One such method is the use of three-gang switches, which can control three groups of lights from one access point. The advantages of using one three-circuit device are obvious. This is an aesthetic appearance, less labor-intensive laying of electrical cables to the connection point. Knocking out one technological niche in the wall to accommodate a mounting box instead of several. Such devices are used to illuminate rooms with a complex configuration, long corridors or control several rooms from one point: a bathroom, a bathroom and a hallway.

Recently, I have often been asked by mail and in the comments and asked to advise on such a seemingly ordinary device. Therefore, today we will analyze in detail the topic of how to connect a three-gang switch. P.S. in this example, a schneider electric three-gang switch is used. A three-gang switch is subjected to more intensive use than other electrical switching equipment. The reliability of the device design should provide an average service life of up to 10 years. Faults that occur during operation can be divided into two categories:

- mechanical - associated with the breakdown of external and internal elements of the case, springs, fasteners, erasing keys, etc.;

- electrical - loosening of the contact clamps in the electrical part of the mechanism, and, as a result, burning of the cables and the entire device as a whole.

Any breakdowns that lead to a violation of the integrity of the device or its individual elements require the replacement of the entire product. Repair or replacement of switches, like any other electrical equipment, must be carried out by a specialist with the appropriate level of clearance. The room where the repair work is carried out must be de-energized without fail. You can buy such switches at any electrical store. The connection diagram of a three-gang switch, which is quite complicated at first glance, will also not present any particular problems after carefully reading the article provided. Three-gang switch design A large number of companies producing electrical equipment produce many models of switches. The devices have significant differences in external design and slightly smaller internal composition. However, the limitations imposed by a typed electrical wiring network in apartments forces the use of switches with a limited number of switching sections in the control mechanism. If it becomes possible to carry out a deep modernization of the electrical network, the use of triple switches will provide more flexible and economical control of lighting sources. in fact, it is no different from connecting one and two-key ones. One of the supply cables is connected to the input of the switch, and the lighting cables are connected to the output contacts (to the corresponding contacts of the switching block). The differences are in the number of contacts of the switching groups - one, two or three. The photo shows the mounting part of the simplest, typical three-gang switch. You can clearly see the difference between the input contacts, to which the phase is supplied, and the output contacts, to which the cables leading to the lighting lamps are connected. The neutral wires of each lamp are combined together and connected to the neutral wire in the box. The three-gang switch mechanism itself is installed in the socket box using a caliper that is fastened with screws or with special spacer legs. After the switch mechanism is securely fixed, a decorative frame is installed on top, which is fastened with latches. Three-gang switch connection diagram The use of a triple switch is justified when there is a need to control a large number of lighting zones and / or multi-level lighting. This will make it possible not only to control the consumption of electricity, but also facilitate the technical implementation of design solutions in the room.

However, for the effective use of the device, you need the correct design and the optimal wiring diagram for a three-gang switch.

The power cable enters the junction box from the shield: blue wire zero, brown phase. The phase must be connected to a switch (in our case, to a common contact). A white wire is connected to the common contact of the switch (it can be seen in the photo), the other three that go from the box to the switch are wires connected to the "output" contacts (in the box they will be connected to the phase wires of the lamps). The process of connecting the device will require the following set of tools: a flat and Phillips screwdriver, depending on the type of screws used in the mechanism, a stripper or side cutter - a tool for stripping insulation, can be replaced with an ordinary knife, wire cutters or pliers.

The algorithm for performing installation work may have the following items.

At the installation site of the device, four wires must come out of the wall. It can be a four-wire cable. More often there is one single wire, which is the phase coming from the junction box, and a three-wire that goes to the lighting fixtures through the junction box.

We collect the wires in the box. To connect the wires, I used wago self-clamping terminal blocks, they are very convenient and practical. If there are no such terminal blocks at hand, you can use ordinary twisting (it will be even better in terms of reliability).

The connection diagram of the three-gang switch is assembled. I'll explain a little. We connect the zero of the supply wire with all the neutral wires of all fixtures (in our example, the neutral wires are blue). Then we connect the phase of the supply wire to the common contact of the switch (these are brown and white wires). There are three wires that "came" from the switch and three phase wires from each lamp. For clarity, I put together a scheme for color coding i.e. the red wire that "came" from the switch is connected to the red wire of the lamp, then the green wire that "came" from the switch is connected to the green wire of the lamp, etc. the phase wire from the network was connected. It is the phase, and not the neutral wire, that is connected to the input of any switch, where it will be interrupted. The neutral wires from the network are immediately connected directly to the neutral wires of the luminaire.

This method of connection is regulated by the instructions of the Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations - PUE. If the wiring diagram is incorrect - if the phase is applied to the lamp, and zero is switched on through the switch, the network will still function, but deviation from the standard version is fraught with danger during operation. In this case, even when the switch is turned off, all electrical wiring will continue to be energized. When replacing light bulbs, a person will be at risk of electric shock. Damage or breakdown of insulation, in the absence of the provided grounding of the lighting device, will lead to voltage in the device case. And, as a result, an electric shock at the slightest touch.

Let's try the scheme in action. Turn on one switch. One lamp lit up - everything is correct.

We turn on another switch key, another lamp lights up.

To determine where the phase and neutral wires are located in the junction box, you should first try to visually determine the belonging of the wires by marking. Then, using a tester or an indicator screwdriver, you will finally make sure of this. Connecting wires to a three-gang switch There are various models of triple switches: for external, internal installation or combined - in one housing with a socket. Before connecting a three-gang switch, you need to get to the connection terminals. To gain access to the three-key switch mechanism, you must pull out the keys and remove the frame. This operation can be performed without the use of a special tool. First you need to remove the keys. The edge of the key is pressed with a finger against the wall in the off position, the other, protruding edge is picked up with a fingernail or a flat screwdriver and pulled towards itself. Basically, in new devices, the keys sit on the guides quite tightly, you do not need to apply excessive force to remove it, you can damage the front element and ruin the entire switch.

The switch frame is attached to the mechanism with a clamping insert, which is located in the middle. The fastening can be made in the form of guides that fit tightly into the mechanism or, as indicated in the photo, in the form of latches that should be pry off with a screwdriver. The method of fastening the wires in the mechanism is with clamping screws. Before inserting the stripped wires, make sure that the screws are not completely screwed into the slots. The three-key switch has four contacts for connecting wires: one for the input and three for the output. In the switch mechanism itself, separate the common terminal to which the phase wire should be connected and the terminals from which voltage will be applied to individual lighting sections. As a rule, these contact groups are divided into separate blocks and placed on the back of the device.

No more than 5-10 mm of insulation is removed from the wires so that no bare wire is visible from the contact hole. The clamping screws are tightened tightly, when checking for extraction, the wire should not have any play. If stranded wires are used to connect the three-gang switch, then in order for the wires not to break off when tightened with a screw clamp, it is necessary to put on special NShVI lugs on the stripped part of the wire. After installation work the switch is assembled in the reverse order. Similar materials on the site:

Do-it-yourself socket replacement

Socket with electronic timer

How to connect a two-gang switch

In contact with

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IMPORTANT! Before starting installation work, make sure that the network is de-energized. If there is free access to the main switch, put up a warning sign for electrical work.

abvey.ru

How to connect a switch with a socket. How to install a block of electrical switches with a socket.

In order to save wires and space on the walls, often electrical appliances are combined with each other through junction boxes or other devices. Most often, a socket with a switch is combined in one housing; due to its practicality, this connection scheme has become the most popular among homeowners.

There are several types of connection, which differ in their type and principle of operation. Previously, in an apartment and a private house, sockets with switches were mainly installed, not combined in one housing. This made it possible to interconnect the wires in the junction box, but at the same time not to combine these two electrical outlets together. This option is suitable if for some reason it is not possible to install these consumers side by side or at the same height.

Photo - Scheme

Advantages of this option:

1. Availability. You can buy the cheapest sockets and switches for fixtures and combine them into one circuit;
2. Simple wiring diagram. If you do everything carefully, then there will be no problems with installing a junction box and combining wires in it with your own hands;
3. Security. If the wiring is shorted or overloaded, the wires may melt. Due to the fact that a single, double or triple switch is installed separately from the outlet, the fire safety of the apartment increases.

Now, more and more often, craftsmen use a special unit for such purposes (for example, these are manufacturers Makel - Makel, ABB - ABB), in which an electrical outlet and a switch are combined. The main advantage of such a connection scheme is its simplicity - it is not required to separately maintain contacts and double-check the correctness of their connection. It should also be noted that it is not necessary to hammer the wall in two places with a perforator, only one hole is enough that fits the size of the block.

Photo - block

1. It is easy to carry out the transfer of the system, its location is simply changed by dragging the cables;
2. The installation height of this socket with a switch is easy to make according to the European standard, there is no need to separately measure the level of each outlet;
3. Can be used for outdoor, indoor, etc.;
4. Easy to mount on any surface. Installation in drywall, brick, stone, foam block is possible.

The disadvantages include the fact that if you need to replace any individual part of the structure, then most likely you will have to change the entire unit.

Blocks are classified by the number of sockets and the type of light bulb or chandelier switches. You can buy one-key, two-key, three-key version.

Separate wiring diagram

The easiest option, how to connect an outlet and a 1-gang Anam switch, is to connect the wires of the network and devices to each other in a certain order in the junction box. Consider how to install:

1. It is necessary to prepare a hole in the wall if the socket is internal, or just a place of installation - if the devices are outdoor. Overhead sockets and switches are often used in houses with open wiring, they are easier to install and operate, but have a lower safety record than standard hidden installations;
2. By default, the junction box should include 6 wires - two each from the socket, switch and network. They are divided into phase and zero. Separately, you need to enter (if any) grounding;
3. First you need to connect the phase of the network and the switch. They are attached to each other with a twist and fixed with electrical tape;
4. The neutral wire is led to the outlet. If you connect the cables in this way, it turns out that the phase is switched - this is very convenient in everyday use;
5. The neutral wire of the wiring is connected to the neutral cable of the outlet.

Photo - connection

Such a combined system works very simply. When the switch is turned on, the phase of the socket closes and electric current begins to flow through it. You can connect an extension cord, any household appliance, etc. to it. If you turn off the switch, the circuit will open. Of course, if necessary, you can connect the circuit so that each consumer functions independently of each other.

Photo - connection principle

Please note that if you set the gap not to the phase wire, but to zero, then even when the switch is off, the socket will be energized. Therefore, electricians do not recommend using such a circuit. This option is also suitable for connecting a plug, a lamp and a switch, but then the switch will control only one device.

Block installation diagram

Increasingly, craftsmen are using a more modern version - this is a network system with a switch in one housing. The system is very convenient and easy to use. How to install a block with a socket and a light switch:

1. A phase wire is removed from the shield. It must be connected to the appropriate output;
2. Switches come with and without locking (with protection are often used for a bathroom or street). Depending on this, the next step may vary. There is a jumper from the phase output of the socket, which is combined with the switch terminal. It can be made of various materials and vary in design;
3. Zero wires are interconnected;
4. By default, such consumers are made immediately with grounding. An earth bus must be connected to the PE screw. It is tightly tightened or simply wrapped around the earth cable around the head with a loop.

Depending on the design, the connection diagram may differ from that described, so carefully read the installation instructions for the unit.

Photo - connection of several consumers

Video: connection diagram of a switch and a socket in a box

Price overview

You can buy a socket with a switch Legrand, Unica Schneider Electric (Schneider Electric), Viko, Lezard, Gira and others in company stores, the price depends on the type and characteristics. It is very convenient that you can choose the desired block both by the appearance of the frame and by technical parameters. Consider the cost of Legrand Valena:

When buying, always check the quality certificate and specifications of the device.

vipmods.ru

How to install 2 x rocker switch. How to connect a two-gang light switch

According to PES 7, the switch must break the phase. In addition, you need to carefully use the backlighting of the keys. Despite the mediocre quality of the video, you can clearly see that the 95 W LED lamp blinks intermittently, despite the fact that the light is turned off. In this case, the phase is fed to the cartridge, while everything should be vice versa. But blinking is not caused by this, but by a small leakage current through the backlight arrester. Some types of bulbs do not flicker, and, looking ahead, we immediately notice that the LED one had previously been tested for a day in another place and did not make any incomprehensible gestures. Now let's talk about how to connect a two-gang light switch correctly.

How to learn more about connecting two-gang switches

Before doing anything, we would recommend studying the law. As Kashpirovsky says: God is a set of truths. Simply put, it is the law that rules the universe. And in this case, God himself ordered to observe the rules. Just look at this bad video. It clearly shows that the LED lamp blinks periodically, although it should go out and wait until the switch contact is closed. It is curious that only this sensitive electronics - it’s hard to name a set of semiconductors with a power supply in another way - reacts to incomprehensible impulses along the power circuit. But the circuit is not closed!

The effect is widely discussed on forums, where some say it's fiction, while others talk about reality. We believe readers have already figured out what's the matter: not every LED light bulb flickers. The phenomenon is eliminated by removing the backlight circuit or replacing the switch with another one. The incorrect layout of the phase was left, apparently, by the builders about thirty years ago. It would have remained unnoticed if the owners had not upgraded their illumination system to replace them with more economical light bulbs on the occasion. Any such effects are certainly harmful, which is why it is so important to break the phase with the switch. Although in a single case, it was possible to detect a problem that can now be solved. But in general, where do such laws come from - for example, that neutral should be applied to the cartridge?

And for this, you need to read the regulations. Paragraph 6.1.36 of the document PUE 7 indirectly speaks about the need to install a switch in the phase circuit. This document was partially approved in 2002 by the Ministry of Energy for execution. For the same reason, the sockets of all new and reconstructed houses are now supplied with a grounding circuit, which was not at all in the old buildings made according to the TN-C system. Types of grounding are discussed, in particular, in the standard 50571.2, which clearly shows how exactly the wires should be laid. In later parts of the same document, some special cases are considered. This will allow you to understand exactly how to do the wiring in a particular case.

That's the purpose of this review is only to save our readers time. The question is, can we replace the law? Not! But on the other hand, we emphasize in the documents the most important points that must be observed when speaking