Drill machines: what are they and how can they be made? Homemade drilling machine from a drill: description, drawings, video Drilling machine from a drill in 2 hours.
It does not always make sense and expediency to buy a factory-made drilling machine. You can make a vertical drilling machine from a drill with your own hands. To do this, you need a drill and materials for making a stand. Such equipment is recommended for use in home workshops or garages, when drilling is not the main operation or is performed quite rarely and the accuracy of the hole can be neglected.
To speed up the process, just buy a specialized drill stand in the tool store. The result is a semblance of a household-level vertical drilling machine, which is not inferior in drilling accuracy to machines for home workshops.
The photo shows factory-made drilling stands. They can be purchased at any online tool store for prices starting at $200.
The article is intended to give you ideas on how to make a drilling machine from a drill yourself, so we do not give a clear algorithm for its manufacture, because it is made from improvised materials: some masters will have it, others will not. Therefore, we give the main ideas, and everyone will apply their design solutions and make their own vertical home-made drilling machine.
If you are not looking for easy ways, then we will make a homemade stand. The rack can be made of wood or metal. Wood will be cheaper, easier to manufacture, but durability will suffer.
Metal ones are more complex, but they have an incomparably longer resource and strength characteristics. The choice of rack material also depends on the workpieces being processed: with constant drilling of metal, it is better to make metal.
Machine assembly
Metal stands are assembled from corners for the carriage, a 50x50 square tube for the stand and 10x10 for the drill bracket, a strip for the base and lugs. The base and bracket are welded, after which all elements are assembled and bolted together. It is recommended to make several brackets with different adapters (clamping rings) for different types of drills. The carriage moves along the bar with the help of a steel cable wound around the handle drum. So that the carriage does not have play and does not fall down under its own weight, it is drilled, threaded and a bolt (or several bolts) is tightened. This selects the backlash between the carriage and the stand of the future drilling machine. The handle for moving the carriage is made from rolled products with a diameter of 6 - 8 mm.
By having several brackets with different clamping rings, it is possible to flexibly select drills and process almost any material.
In the future, home-made equipment can be upgraded and improved, for example, mark or install a scale that will indicate the length of the movement of the carriage. This helps when drilling blind holes.
There are several mounting methods:
- several clamps;
- on a metal bracket in the hole for the neck of the drill.
Video of a design option from a drill on a wooden stand.
The easiest option for making a homemade drilling structure at home
A homemade drilling machine from a drill will never replace a factory one and will always be inferior in build quality and drilling accuracy. The main advantage of homemade is its low price, the ability to drill holes when the factory machine is not available for one reason or another.
Construction stores offer us a huge range of various drilling machines in all price categories.
However, the cost of a really high-quality model hits hard on your pocket, and there is no point in purchasing a cheap drilling machine from consumer-oriented Chinese manufacturers, whose service life is ridiculous.
It is much easier to buy a good electric drill, and independently make a manual desktop home-made drilling machine based on it, which will fully meet all your requirements.
The cost of a quality drill is much less than that of a full-fledged drilling machine.
In addition, you can use an electric drill already available on the farm, since the design of the machine provides for the possibility of its quick dismantling, which allows you to use one drill both in stationary and manual mode.
1 Required tools and materials
A desktop drilling machine from a drill can be made on the basis of metal pipes, or on the basis of wooden parts. We recommend that you give preference to the second option, since it is much less laborious and does not require the use of either a grinder or a welding machine.
Wooden homemade machine has strength, which is more than enough for normal household use.
Such a do-it-yourself machine based on a drill, adhering to all the recommendations described below, can be made with your own hands within two hours, and it will serve you for more than one year.
In order to make a desktop drilling machine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- wooden boards 2-2.5 centimeters thick;
- metal slat guides - 2 pieces (such slats are used to supply drawers in tables and chests of drawers, they can be purchased at any furniture supermarket);
- wooden beam with dimensions of 20 * 30 mm - about two meters;
- screws for wood with a length of 20 and 30 millimeters;
- wood glue;
- electric drill;
- metal rod with thread class M8;
- metal tube with thread class M6;
- screws and nuts.
Direct work is carried out using the following tools:
- screwdriver (phillips or regular, depending on which screws you will use);
- drill;
- sandpaper;
- jigsaw and hacksaw;
- corner;
- pencil, ruler;
- level
- roulette
- carpentry clamps for fixing boards.
1.1 Creating a base for the frame
To create a base base for a homemade drilling machine, cut a 20 * 30 wooden beam with a hacksaw into four pieces, two of which are 17 centimeters long and two more are 20 centimeters long.
If you want to create a homemade machine based on a massive electric drill, then it would be better to make a larger base, since increasing its size will give the structure greater stability.
Next, prepare a board with dimensions of 200 * 220 * 20 millimeters (dimensions are given based on the above dimensions of the timber). Using self-tapping screws, connect the sections of the beam into one frame. To connect at each end of the beam, you need to use two self-tapping screws, if you use a beam of greater thickness, then you can screw in a self-tapping screw at each corner of the end.
Place a board on top of the resulting frame. Screw it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the beam, 2-3 bolts on one side will be more than enough.
To make your job easier, we recommend drill pre-holes in the boards, into which it is much easier to screw in self-tapping screws than into a solid board. To avoid protrusions of the heads of self-tapping screws above the wooden surface, you can use a drill of a larger diameter to chamfer under their heads.
1.2 Creating a column for guides
The width of the board for the column should correspond to the width of the created base, the thickness should be 20 mm, and the height is determined depending on the size of the drill used, as a rule, a height of 40-50 centimeters will be more than enough. An excessively high column can adversely affect the stability of the entire structure.
Once you have cut the board to the right size, immediately attach it to the base with self-tapping screws. Next, you need to equip the free space between the column itself and the electric drill, for this, fix two pieces of timber, 25 * 35 * 17 millimeters in size, parallel to each other in the center of the upper part of the column.
In order not to be mistaken with the installation site, perform preliminary marking. Draw a straight line from the center point of the top of the column down, then retreat 50 mm from each side of it, and draw two lines parallel to each other. The distance between the lines should be 100 mm.
Pay close attention to so that the lines are strictly parallel to each other, so even the slightest angle of inclination of the trajectory along which the guides move is fraught with the fact that the drill will not enter the surface to be machined at a right angle, due to which, when drilling hard metal surfaces, thin drills will break very quickly .
1.3 Installing the rails
Mounting guides is perhaps the most difficult part of creating a do-it-yourself drilling machine. It is extremely important that the guides run exactly perpendicular to the base of the machine and parallel to each other.
Prepare two boards measuring 100 * 250 * 20 mm, and mark on them the places where the retractable rails will be attached. Sliding rails sold in furniture stores are already equipped with holes for self-tapping screws, so you just have to screw them to the guides with your own hands. After the rails are attached, we mount the guides on the column.
1.4 Creating drill mounts
We suggest that you make a universal mount with your own hands, which is suitable for installing not only a mini-drill, but also for a full-fledged electric drill. To do this, prepare a board measuring 60*100*20 for the top holder, and 100*100*20 for the bottom one.
Cut a hole in the center of the bottom board with a jigsaw, the diameter of which is suitable for securely fixing your drill. Fix it to the rail using a furniture corner and self-tapping screws.
We also cut out the top holder for jigsaws. Its dimensions and outlines are individual, and depend on the shape of the drill you will use. We make holes around the perimeter of both clamps and screw in the screws that will be clamped and fix the drill in the holder motionlessly.
2 Making a height limiter
The height limiter is necessary so that the homemade drilling machine can make multiple holes that are identical in depth. Great for making a limiter. metal rod with M8 thread.
Drill a hole in the base into which the rod will be installed (it must be firmly fixed in the base, but at the same time rotate freely).
Next, we cut out a small piece of timber, drill a hole in it and install a threaded sleeve on one side, and a piece of the rod that will limit the amplitude of movement of the guides on the other. We twist the beam onto the main rod.
To make a manual bench drill the machine was more convenient to use, on the restrictive rod you need to make a handle.
It can be an ordinary homemade plywood stop, which is fixedly fixed between two nuts.
2.1 Making a homemade drilling machine (video)
In order to save time, you can buy a ready-made inexpensive stand and vise for a drill in the OBI.RU store, which allow you to fix the drill in a vertical position and use it as a drilling machine, thereby increasing the accuracy and speed of work.
Characteristics:
- height: 400 mm;
- clamping hole diameter: 43 mm;
- drilling depth: 60 mm;
- The kit includes a vise for fixing workpieces.
An electric drill is a universal tool, since not only drills and cutters, but also wooden parts can be clamped into its chuck, if the device is used in a lathe. The need for a drilling machine arises when the home master needs to drill holes at right angles. In this case, the master faces a choice: buy a ready-made drilling stand or make a machine from a drill with his own hands. We will show you how to implement the second option.
In the manufacture of a stand for fixing a drill, it is necessary to understand the principle of its operation, and show imagination in the manufacture of its individual components.
Rack Option #1
For example, the following is an instruction for making a drill fixture from simple improvised materials.
- To attach the drill to the sled, clamps are used, under which a rubber gasket is placed.
- To raise and lower the movable part of the sled to which the power tool is attached, a stand with a lever is used.
- To limit the depth of drilling, an adjustable stop is installed under the lever.
- The fixed part of the slide is attached to the pipe with a flange.
- The vertical and horizontal parts of the pipe are connected by an elbow. Required for connection maintain a right angle. The vertical pipe is fixed in a flange screwed to the frame. Instead of a pipe, you can use “kerchiefs” made of chipboard, which are fixed to the frame and to the fixed part of the slide using euro screws (confirmations).
- On the movable platform, it is necessary to make 4 holes for the clamps used to clamp the body of the device. Also on the side that will be turned to the fixed part of the rack, it is necessary to glue the rails. For better glide, they are lubricated with paraffin.
- In order to prevent the body of the device from falling, 2 stops can be installed at the bottom, as shown in the figure.
- To align the body of the unit at a right angle, you can glue a rail of the required thickness (thickness is determined by the selection method).
- The guides in this design are made of aluminum profile. But you can also replace them with ball (telescopic) guides, which are used to install boxes in furniture. The task of the guides is a rigid (without backlash) and at the same time movable connection of the rack parts.
- To assemble the lever, and at the same time it could move, the nut should not be tightened all the way. To fix the nut and prevent its spontaneous unscrewing, another one is used, which is screwed nearby.
- The part of the lever attached to the movable platform must be rounded at the end.
- If you need the unit to rise to the top position after drilling, you can install a spring by attaching one end to the movable platform and the other to the horizontal part of the pipe. If the spring is short, you can lengthen it with a cord.
Rack Option #2
The figure below shows another homemade drilling machine, the stand for which can be made from thick plywood, and the rest of the parts from a wooden beam.
The role of the guide in a drilling machine made from a drill is played by an aluminum profile. But, if you do not find such a profile, then you can replace it with furniture guides(telescopic).
Rack Option #3
If you have a house lying around soviet era photo enlarger, then it can serve as the basis for a stand for a drill. This design already has rigid guides, as well as a gear mechanism that provides vertical movement of the carriage along them.
You only need to modify the design a little by attaching clamps to the carriage, and comfortable handles to the height adjuster.
Well, if you don’t have the desire to design devices for a drill with your own hands, or you just don’t have time for it, but you still need to drill a hole with a drill strictly at a right angle, then you can buy a ready-made stand at a price of about 1200 rubles.
Other options for drill machines
The drilling machine can serve as an engine for constructing various woodworking tools. Consider what else you can make a machine from a drill with your own hands.
Frazier
To make a router with a drill, you will need to take a regular clamp used for water pipes.
You will also need to find some chipboard (you can use a plate from old furniture), and then assemble such a structure as in the figure below.
This similarity of a router can be used, for example, for milling a groove in the end of a tabletop, for stuffing a T-shaped profile, or for shaped milling of the ends of wooden parts. Of course, it is difficult to achieve good quality milling in this way, since the machine does not have enough speed. For comparison: the spindle of a router can rotate at a speed of 26,000 rpm. and more, thanks to which a high quality surface finish is achieved.
You can also make a milling machine out of a drill, if you clamp it in this way, as shown in the figure below. In this way, a quarter is selected in a bar for inserting glass, for example, in the manufacture of a window leaf.
For turning small, round parts, you can make a device in which the drill will give rotational movement to the workpiece. The easiest way to perform wood turning is the one shown in the figure below.
Such a wood lathe can be made in minutes. To make it, you will need a wooden beam or board, a couple of corners, as well as a sharpened bolt.
A more “advanced” drawing of a lathe, which can be made from a drill with your own hands, is presented below.
If you do not have the opportunity to make such a device from metal, as shown in the drawing, then you can do a pair of clamps attached to a workbench.
The first clamp with a clamp can be used to secure the machine to the workbench.
As a clamp for a drill, you can use a small vice with a clamp clamped in them. With the second clamp, you need to clamp the homemade tailstock with a screw screwed into it to center and maintain the part. The end of the screw must be tapered.
As a handpiece, a bar of the required thickness is pressed against the workbench.
It is also not difficult to design a homemade lathe from wooden blocks as shown in the following figure.
For precision turning work with long and large parts, it is recommended to make a lathe from a metal profile(square).
In the manufacture of this design, it is necessary to accurately maintain the alignment of the headstock and tailstock. The unit to the headstock can be secured with a pair of clamps.
The tailstock must be movable in order to be able to process parts of various lengths.
The tool rest must also be movable and move both along the bed and across it so that you can move it closer to the workpiece to reduce the leverage. If the lever is large, the tool may be pulled out of the hands, and the part out of the chuck, which is fraught with serious injury.
It is important that the support platform rotates, for example, when machining a part at an angle.
If you make such a machine, then it can easily be converted into a universal one. It is enough to clamp an emery or felt wheel in the cartridge of the apparatus, and the design turns into a grinding machine from a drill. In the same way, you can make a grinding unit out of it.
A simpler model of a universal machine is easy to make from an ordinary planed board. To do this, you need to cut it into parts, and assemble the structure, as shown in the figure.
This is what the bed looks like when the table is removed.
The thickness of the board used in the construction is 2 cm. The length of the product is 50 cm. The width of the fixture is 20 cm.
The height of the racks is 9 and 14 cm. The height can be different and depends on what diameter the grinding wheel will be used. The whole structure is twisted with self-tapping screws. It is recommended to smear the joints of parts with glue before assembly.
On top of the racks, 2 clamps are fixed, one of which is cut and unbent. As a soft pad used cut polyethylene tube, nailed with carnations.
On the frame, it is necessary to make a small cut (groove) and expand it from the bottom side so that the head of the coupling bolt does not interfere.
Next, you should twist 2 boards measuring 20 X 27 cm with a bar between them, the thickness of which is 4 cm (this way you get a table). The bar is needed so that the hand can freely pass between the planes while screwing the table to the frame.
A groove is also cut in one plank to secure the table to the base. After that, the table can be attached using a screw with a washer.
Thanks to the grooves, the table can be moved to the required distance to the cartridge. If the table is rotated, it will be possible to move it across the machine. The length of the groove determines the distance that the table can be moved.
After fixing the drilling machine, you will get a universal fixture.
Now, if you clamp the drill chuck grinding wheel- You will receive a grinding unit. The presence of a reverse in the unit during grinding is desirable, but not necessary.
If set abrasive disc(for metal) from a grinder, then it becomes possible to cut metal rods. When cutting metal, be sure to wear safety goggles. You can also install a gear cutter, and cut thin plastic with it.
When installing abrasive wheel- it turns out a sharpener.
Such a unit can be used for turning knives, drills, planer knives, and also for sharpening tools for a wood lathe.
If you fix the guides on the table, and install the drill in the chuck, you get a filler machine.
Thus, the drill, thanks to the clamping chuck, is the basis for creating machines for various purposes. Such an increase in the functionality of a conventional drill will be very useful for a home craftsman who has various technological operations at his disposal.
Good afternoon everyone! In this review, I will show how I managed to make a small, simple drilling machine from an purchased drill stand and an available, but rarely used, hand-held electric drill. I tried to make a complete and convenient device for amateur and domestic needs, without pretensions to professional use. As always, in the review, a description of the process, drawings, and the result obtained.
All previous years, for drilling holes, I completely managed with a screwdriver, well, very rarely with a hand drill. This was quite enough, there were no problems on parts with a small thickness. Another issue is drilling clearly vertical holes in a large thickness of the material, sometimes it turns out to control the verticality of the drill, sometimes not very much.
Reaming a smaller hole with a larger drill: often, when reaming, the original center of the hole could shift, depending on how the drill finds itself there.
To avoid all these problems, critical parts and workpieces must be drilled on a drilling machine, which naturally does not exist.
I have already reached the condition when a drilling machine is needed, but I don’t know what exactly I want from it, what parameters are important to me, and which one to choose. Therefore, in order to gain experience and form my future needs, for a better and more efficient investment in a drilling machine in the future, I decided to practice on a homemade machine from a stand for a hand drill.
It was possible to buy just a stand, place a drill in it and use it, but I needed to make it convenient to turn the drill on and off, as well as conveniently adjust the rotation speed. Therefore, I decided to make a small pedestal for the rack, with controls placed in it, as well as a box for drills and other accessories.
And at the very base of the rack, I decided to make a wider table for placing and fixing workpieces for drilling. During the design process, the following design turned out (the stand and the drill in the model are different, I took it from 3D Warehouse):
The design of the box is as follows, with an organizer installed in it for frequently used drills:
Drawings with dimensions:
Having studied the expanses of the network and reviews, an already fairly well-known stand for a drill with an all-metal column and a cast-iron base and carriage was chosen. ()
Some photos of unpacking and assembly:
People in the reviews write about the backlash in the plastic carriage guide, and a slight backlash at the column-carriage point, but not all of them. I got the backlash of the plastic guide, which was cured by simply putting a piece of plastic from the paper folder. The backlash disappeared altogether, the carriage began to move up and down hard, but thick silicone grease removed this problem as well. The stand is excellent, heavy, monumental!
An old but vigorous drill Interskol DU13 / 780ER acted as the working part of our machine:
The drill fits tightly into the receiving socket on the stand, there are no backlashes, the fixation is excellent:
We begin to collect our pedestal with a box. Sawing the details of the pedestal. In the project, I laid plywood 10 mm thick, but it so happened that I had an already started sheet of 12 mm, which for some reason I took for 10 mm, because of this my dimensions floated and for a long time I could not understand why):
We collect on self-tapping screws and PVA:
We file the details of the inner drawer, the bottom of the drawer is made of 6mm plywood:
Assembling the box:
We prepare and glue the back and front plugs of the pedestal:
For the drawer we use furniture ball guides:
To attach the box to the hinges, I put a sheet of plywood next to it and placed four 10-ruble coins to create an even gap between the box and the base of the pedestal:
We cut and glue the front panel of the box onto the PVA, we also adjust the gaps with coins:
Don't forget to make a handle to open the drawer:
As a filling for on / off control and speed control, I picked up the following kit in the bins: a relay with a 230V coil, two buttons, with NO and NC contacts, and a triac speed controller (2000W) from Aliexpress:
On the front panel we mark the holes for the buttons and the regulator potentiometer:
We drill holes. Under the potentiometer knob, I had to make a small recess with a dremel with a cutter, since the thickness of the front panel is 6 mm, and the knob did not sit normally on the potentiometer shaft:
Trying buttons:
On the back plug of the button block, I decided to put a socket under the drill plug, as well as a stuffing box for the mains power wire:
We take the top cover of the pedestal, mark and drill holes for attaching the base of the stand (I didn’t glue the top cover of the pedestal, I fixed it only with self-tapping screws):
We turn to the manufacture of the drilling table. We will make from two sheets of plywood:
We connect two sheets into four self-tapping screws, mark out and cut out a groove under the column of our rack with a jigsaw, refine it with a dremel:
We mark the rounding of the corners:
We mark, take a milling cutter and with a groove cutter f10mm along the plywood stop we make grooves for the movable table clamps, as well as the rounding of the table:
We disassemble our part, take the bottom sheet, mark and drill holes in it for attaching the table to the base of the rack:
On the reverse side, for fastening I used such fasteners with an M8 thread to drown the hats, I made recesses with a dremel:
We take the top sheet of the table, mark and cut out a square hole 70x70 mm for a removable insert. The liner is placed offset from the center so that it can be turned over and all sides of the liner square can be used:
We glue both sheets of our table on PVA:
Preparing clamps for the table. I made them from scraps of plywood, beveled the resulting heel a little to get a good clamp on thin parts. The 8mm hole for the clamping bolt was slightly worked out in the longitudinal direction so that the bolt in the part could deviate relative to the vertical axis.
Let's try our clamp in action, using a long M8 furniture bolt, washers and a wing nut:
We take all the received parts of the machine, grind and cover with oil:
We put all the components of the power supply and control system, the buttons and relays are connected according to the self-pickup scheme:
We do a power-up check, set everything up and fix the wires:
From the bottom of the pedestal we put rubberized legs:
We fix the drilling table to the base of the stand with M8 nuts:
We insert the box, we look at what has happened so far:
We turn to the manufacture of an organizer for drills. All details of the horizontal compartment of the organizer are made of 6mm plywood. We cut out the base according to the drawing, saw thin strips of plywood, and assemble the sides on PVA:
We cut 6mm wide dividers on the table (for such operations, I had to make a zero-gap liner from aluminum on the sawing table, since the original surface of the table was already worn out, and severe chips went on the plywood):
We glue the dividers through a 14 mm template on PVA. I took the depth and width (6x14 mm) of the compartment based on my fingers so that I could easily take a small drill from the bottom of the compartment:
I decided to make a vertical organizer for the most common drills (two compartments for drills for metal and wood) from 12 mm plywood, but glue a strip of 6 mm plywood on top, since it is very bad to drill into the end of plywood:
Trying our vertical organizer to the horizontal one:
We mark and drill holes in the organizer on our table with all available drills, from 8mm to 1mm with a diameter step of 1mm:
Trying both organizers in the drawer:
Cover with oil new parts, put in a box. We put the vertical organizer on small loops so that it can be folded to a fully vertical position and have access to the drills in the lower compartment.
In front of the horizontal organizer, I glued an emphasis from a piece of plywood 6mm in the box, after it in the box a little later there will be an organizer for cutters, countersinks and other large drills. I also prepared several square interchangeable liners:
We assemble all the details of the machine, fold and fasten the drill cable so that it does not interfere:
We work:
The drilling machine worked well. Drilling is much more convenient, and most importantly more accurate and accurate. Of course, there is no maintenance of speed, it would be even more comfortable with it, but I’m already starting to get used to what speed should be set on the drill and the immersion force for the material, so as not to squander the drill, but also not to spoil the workpiece or part with high speeds. This is all worked out by experience. I will work on it, I will understand what I need and it is important from the machine, what parameters will be critical for me, in order to possibly consider an “adult” machine in the future.
In the near future, I plan to make a small vise for vertical fastening of workpieces and a grinding drum to the machine, I need them for upcoming projects.
In carpentry, drilling holes is indispensable, so one of the most popular tools for a carpenter is a drill, electric or manual.
It is convenient to work with blanks of small thickness with such a tool, to drill sheet material, plywood, but it is difficult to make a hole in a thick blank without spoiling its geometry.
A homemade drilling machine will cope with this task. Made by hand, it will not be a heavy burden on the family budget and will become a reliable assistant to the home master.
Drilling machine, why is it needed
Drilling thin material is not a problem. It is enough to pick up a drill, a few seconds - and the job is done. But what if you need a precisely calibrated hole in a thick beam? A hand tool will not work, there is a high risk of spoiling the workpiece. The result will be a shift in the center of the hole, a change in geometry, torn edges. A drilling machine will help to avoid such shortcomings and create a hole with the given parameters.
Due to the reliable fixation of the workpiece and the centering of the tool, drilling accuracy is ensured, which cannot be achieved when working with a drill. Precision is a must when making furniture in the home workshop. To create a homemade welding machine for furniture, you will have to slightly modify the finished tool. Production does not require much effort and time.
Do not forget about the versatility of this machine: by changing drills, you can work with any material, from soft wood to metal, easily drilling sheet steel. Instead of a drill, you can use a milling cutter, then the device will replace a low-power milling machine. Among other things, a drilling machine will greatly facilitate the work of the master. It is easier to work with a stationary device, there is no need to carry a heavy tool.
Stationary machine from a hand drill
Almost every home craftsman has an electric drill. This is one of the most versatile power tools. By changing nozzles, in addition to drilling, it can drill walls, clean seams, and clean the surface of the material. Among other things, on the basis of a drill, craftsmen make a number of desktop machines, including drilling.
Tools that will be required for work:
- a circular saw;
- jigsaw;
- Bulgarian;
- coarse sandpaper;
- a simple set of hand tools;
- Ruler and pencil.
You will also need an electric drill itself. It will help in assembling the device, and then take its place on the bed. An additional plus from this design is that the drill can be removed at any time and used for its intended purpose.
The drilling machine from an electric drill is simple, because little material is required. It is necessary to prepare a piece of board, plywood with a thickness of 15 mm or more, furniture guides, as well as self-tapping screws and bolts with nuts.
The board from which the frame is made must be dry, without cracks and mechanical damage, with a minimum number of knots. Before starting work, it is cycled, if necessary, treated with sandpaper.
Instructions for the manufacture of the machine
The basis of the design of a homemade machine is a frame. It consists of a vertical stand and a horizontal support. A worktop and a spindle box are attached to the rack. The step by step assembly instructions are as follows.
Rack
As a material for the stand of a homemade drilling machine, slats cut from a pine board are used. You will need two blanks with a section of 30x40 mm and two 20x20 mm. The length of each of them is 60 cm. It is convenient to cut the board with a circular saw, after adjusting the side stop. Finished slats are sanded to remove burrs.
The bars are fastened in pairs, aligning along one of the faces. The joints are coated with carpentry glue, self-tapping screws are used for fixing. The result is two identical corners of wood.
The racks are interconnected by two jumpers, bars measuring 80x40x20 mm. They are installed on the inside of the corners, on the outside they are reinforced with inserts cut from the same board.
Spindle box
The second step is to make the spindle box. It holds the electric drill, while ensuring its movement in a vertical plane. The box is made from plywood. It is necessary to cut two blanks 155x55 mm and one 140x155 mm.
The mobility of the node is provided by furniture guides. You will need 4 pcs. 120 mm long. At the ends, using pliers, bend the stoppers. The guides are screwed onto plywood blanks, two for wide, one for narrow.
Assemble the spindle box. It has the shape of the letter P, the guides are on the inner surfaces. With the help of self-tapping screws, the box is mounted on a vertical frame. The resulting structure should move easily, but without distortions and backlashes.
Drill holder
Next, a drill lock is made. This is one of the most important parts of the machine. To ensure sufficient strength, it is made from two plywood blanks glued together with a size of 165x85 mm. A round hole is cut into the workpiece. Its diameter depends on the drill model. In any case, the drill should enter freely, but without a large gap. A correctly made latch will allow you to use the device as a grooving machine, it will be possible to make longitudinal grooves in soft material.
On the outside of the latch, a cut is made to allow the drill to be clamped, a hole is drilled in its cheeks, inside which a locking screw is installed. The latch is mounted on a movable box using self-tapping screws; for greater reliability, it is reinforced from below with a plywood corner.
Support
The machine must be stable on the workbench, for this a horizontal support is used. It is made from the same plywood. It is necessary to cut blanks with dimensions of 260x240 mm and 50x240 mm.
First, the vertical frame and the narrow part of the base are connected, the junction is glued, self-tapping screws are used for fixation.
The resulting structure is attached to the support. It is best to use M6 bolts, the nuts of which are pressed into the plywood base from below. You can also use under-thaw bolts, then the nuts will be located at the top.
tabletop
The table of the machine is made of plywood, you can use laminated chipboard (LDSP). The dimensions of the working surface are 260x240 mm. For its fastening, you will need a piece of plywood 260x50 mm and corners with sides of 60 mm.
Using self-tapping screws, the table for the drilling machine is connected to the side bar. The connection must be reliable, it is recommended to glue it. Reliability of the design will add triangular inserts glued at the corners.
It will be more convenient to work with the machine if the tabletop is movable. It is not difficult to ensure its vertical movement, you just need to provide a guide bar on the bar, drill a through hole, and pass a long bolt through it.
Spring loaded and drill feed
In normal condition, the spindle box with the drill installed on it should be at the top of the vertical frame. To achieve this, use a spring with suitable parameters. It is installed between the corners of the frame, to fix it, a screw with a ring is screwed into the upper jumper, and a self-tapping screw into the box body.
Forced lowering of the drill is carried out using a movable handle. It is made from a bar, one end of which is fixed at the top of the frame. It is desirable to strengthen the lever; at the place of its attachment, a metal sleeve of a suitable diameter is pressed into the tree. Fix the lever with a bolt.
To transfer force, a metal bar with holes at the ends is used. Its length is chosen empirically, fixing - with ordinary self-tapping screws.
It remains to install the drill, fix it and perform test drilling. Just in the course of it, a technological hole will be drilled in the tabletop, at the exit point of the drill, which will allow you to work with material of any thickness.
The finished machine must be covered with several layers of varnish or painted. Thus, it will be possible not only to give it a finished look, but also to ensure durability and safety of operation.
Options for homemade drilling machines
A full-fledged drilling machine can be made from a used car steering rack. According to its dimensions, a frame is made on which the electric motor is mounted. The engine from an old washing machine is perfect. The transmission of rotation is carried out using a belt drive. It is better to use a pulley with several grooves, this will allow you to adjust the speed, thereby working with material of different hardness. According to the same scheme, do-it-yourself filler machines are made.
You can drill holes of small diameter on a small machine made from the skeleton of an old microscope, on which an electric motor from a tape recorder is installed. It is guaranteed to cope with thin sheet material. The only difficulty in the manufacture of such a device is that it is difficult to find a suitable cartridge.
A drilling machine in the workshop will make life much easier for the home master. Even a simple home-made device made from an electric drill can open up new horizons for him. Drilling wood, metal, making grooves, making furniture - all this will become possible with a homemade drilling machine.