Finishing the facade of a wooden house with an unedged board. Wall finishing board: application for interior decorative cladding

Facade decoration is carried out with various materials. At the same time, the correct use of even boards with raw edges can be an outdoor decoration of any home. Sheathing the facade of a building with wood is an eco-friendly way to protect against the sun, wind, rain and frost.

Of no small importance in ensuring the service life of the external decorative coating is the preliminary and final processing of materials. Thanks to her, sheathing a house with a board will allow you to maintain a beautiful appearance of the building for many years.

Some Features

In order to sheathe your house with an overlap board, you must first solve several problems:

• determine the type of wood;
• select materials for pre-treatment and finishing;
• assess the need for additional insulation;
• select fasteners.

Finishing a building with a board is not cheap. However, its huge plus is the naturalness and natural beauty of such material.

Choice of wood

The following types of wood can be used for the exterior cladding of a house with an overlap board:

1. Larch. This is the leader of this list in terms of main characteristics. Wood is moisture resistant. The degree of warping is significantly lower than other conifers. According to the Brinell scale, its hardness is 109 units, which practically corresponds to this oak parameter. Easy to process, nails hold well in such a fairly dense rock. The service life is at least 100 years. Such wood is not very susceptible to attack by insects. The only drawback is the high price.
2. Spruce. This type of wood is quite well impregnated with resin. The presence of numerous knots is a big plus for decorative design. However, the wood is soft. Therefore, after a few years, cracks form around the knots. Because of these characteristics, spruce plank trim is rare.
3. Pine. The hardness of this breed is only 1.6 units. The board from this type is strongly warped. Service life no more than 12 years. In this regard, pine for exterior cladding is used less frequently than larch.
4. Cedar. The material is resistant to rot, but susceptible to attack by insects, so additional processing is required. The material is soft, but the service life is about 20 years.
5. Oak. Such material looks very beautiful, hardness is 110 units, service life is at least 100 years. Oak is resistant to moisture and decay, as well as insect attack. The disadvantages include high cost. Hammering nails without first drilling a hole often results in splitting of the material.

Hardwoods are also very popular. However, the cheapest species are pine and spruce. But when using them, high-quality treatment with antiseptics and flame retardants is required, and at the final stage - with varnishes.

After choosing the type of wood, it is necessary to determine the degree of processing of the material:

1. Obapol slab or simply slab when facing a house has rarely been used lately. Such a board is the edge of a log, which has an oval surface. The downside is the different widths.
2. Unedged board. From sawn timber is in the greatest demand. At the board, one or both ends are not processed along the length.
3. The clean-edged board is processed along the entire length, the width is the same along it.
4. Grooved board. From the ends along the length it has grooves of various shapes.

Now planken is gaining wide popularity as a facing material. Such a non-grooved board is in demand, it is made from both larch and pine with bevelled edges. Produced with a thickness of not more than 20 mm.

You should pay attention to the board - an imitation of a bar. Its thickness is 16–45 mm.

The most convenient width of any used board is 300 mm. At the same time, the thickness of the finishing material can vary from 20 to 30 mm.

It must be remembered that the material for work must be dry. Therefore, in the summer it is recommended to keep it outdoors for up to two weeks, covering it from moisture. At the same time, the shrinkage of the material after work is significantly reduced.

Selection of auxiliary materials for pre-treatment and grouting

Exterior decoration of the house involves preliminary preparation. Walls must be protected from moisture and fungus. For this, premium wood pre-impregnation products turn out to be excellent helpers. These are Biofa primers or Woodlife antiseptics. They make walls resistant not only from moisture and fungus, but also from fire.

Be sure to make sure that the basement is properly waterproofed. On a stone or concrete foundation, moisture gradually rises to the walls. It must also be taken into account that the board should in no case come into contact with the ground.

There must be a blind area around the house. It can be done after the completion of finishing work. Do not forget about the presence of a layer of waterproofing from the wall of the building.

To seal the joints between the boards along the length, various mastics and other means are used, for example, acrylic sealant Perma-Chink or Energy Seal. They have good adhesion and elasticity, the ability to both shrink and stretch. Cracks between the seams during their application are not formed.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the need for insulation of the house. If the building is made of gas blocks, then this event is desirable to perform. If mats are used as insulation, then for fastening the guide beam, suspensions must be provided, used, for example, for drywall.

After all such "little things" are provided, finishing work can be started.

Unedged board sheathing technology

After processing the board with a protective coating and performing waterproofing of the walls, and, if necessary, installing insulation, the sheathing material is attached over the insulation to the vertical bars. The house is sheathed in the direction from the bottom up with the help of nails.

At the bottom of the vertical bars, it is necessary to nail a horizontally thin rail that sets the angle of inclination (relative to the vertical) of each subsequent board. The next layer is superimposed on the previous one. This "overlap" is from 15 to 20 mm. It is necessary to maintain the same slope of the board relative to the vertical.

When applying each next row, one should not forget about observing the horizontal arrangement of the finishing material. Fastening the board with nails is carried out in its lower part.

Upholstery of the house with an unedged board ends with the application of a finishing coating. Often varnish is used for this. This coating is produced on a different basis. Acrylic lacquer Borma or polyurethane Varathane have proven themselves well. They protect wood from moisture, sunlight, temperature changes. At the same time, the natural appearance of the fibers is well preserved.

Today, a fairly large number of different materials are used for cladding the facade of private houses. Even the simplest materials, with the right approach, can decorate the facade of any design.

Boards can be used as house cladding, only during installation they must be coated with sealant at the joints.

One of these materials is unedged board, which has uncut edges. Such elements are able to give the facade of the structure excellent properties, creating a unique design. Today, sheathing is not only unedged, but also other types of boards.

How to clad a house with an unedged board?

Elements that will be needed for sheathing a private house:

Lumber: a - two-edged timber; b - three-edged timber; c - four-edged timber; g - unedged board; d - clean-edged board; e - edged board with a blunt wane; g - edged board with a sharp wane; h - bar; and - slab croaker; to - boardwalk; l - unedged sleeper; m - edged sleeper; 1 - face; 2 - edge; 3 - rib; 4 - butt.

1. Bar.
2. Unedged board 30 cm wide of northern tree species.
3. Mastic.
4. Silicone sealant.
5. Deep penetration primer.
6. Nails.
7. Tassel.
8. Putty knife.
9. Mineral wool.
10. Building level.
11. Dye.

For the external cladding of the structure, a beam is used, which is nailed over unedged boards in increments of approximately 1.5 m. The beams should also be used at the corners of the building. The fit of the boards to each other does not have to be perfect, because the existing gaps can be later covered with mastic or silicone sealant.

In most cases, unedged board has a thickness of 16, 19, 22 and 25 mm, but you can also find thicker ones - 30-75 mm. Today, on the building materials market, there are a fairly large number of various boards for sale, since wood facade decoration is performed quite often.

The front part of a private house made of unedged boards will create a unique play of light and shade, which can be obtained thanks to horizontal planking. In most cases, an unedged board 30 cm wide is used to finish the facade of a private house.

It is best for this work to choose northern tree species that have a beautiful texture and suitable density. Such trees include such species as Siberian larch or selected butt forest, which does not have any defects.

Choosing the right way to install such boards

During sheathing, an unedged board can be installed using the "overlap" method or placed close to each other. In terms of quality, such sheathing will not be inferior to siding. The second option is more difficult to perform, but it looks better.

In addition to aesthetic qualities, it is necessary to take into account the practicality of all house cladding methods. The "overlap" method is more suitable for finishing facade elements in terms of practicality. This sheathing method is resistant to moisture, but it must be remembered that in this case, the installation of an unedged board will need to be done on top of the waterproofing layer, while the ends of the elements are joined with the trimming “under the mustache”. In the end, all existing joints will need to be treated with silicone sealant.

If necessary, the board can be covered with a primer and installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

They will need to be nailed with the right side over the previous board. Nails are used as fasteners, which are driven in at the bottom. This method allows you to maintain the integrity of the structure in case the humidity level fluctuates.

The technology of boarding facade elements of a private house

Unedged boards have uneven edges, which can complicate the process of joining all the elements. However, this technology simplifies this process, so it is recommended to use it.

The technology is as follows:

Before installation, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic, which will protect the material from moisture and various pests.

1. The boards are covered with a primer or a special coating for protection. Deep penetration primers are suitable for these works, which are used to prepare mineral coatings before plastering and painting. Priming compositions penetrate deep into the boards and act as a connecting element. As a result, it will be possible to increase the wear resistance of the base, reduce the environmental impact on the wooden coating, and increase the adhesion of adhesive mixtures and paints.
2. Waterproofing is installed on the walls. In this case, it is best to use coating type waterproofing. It is important not only to protect the walls, but also to waterproof the blind areas of a private house. Mastic should be applied to the walls with a brush. If gaps remain, you will need to pour the solution into them, and then remove the excess with a spatula.
3. After that, the waterproofing layer must dry so that the base is not sticky to the touch. It is recommended to apply 3 layers of waterproofing to avoid moisture ingress and the formation of fungus and mold in the building. If a similar problem nevertheless arises, then you will need to purchase special building materials to combat mold.
4. Next, a heater is installed. For the insulation of facade elements, mineral wool is most often used. It does not ignite, does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of frost.
5. The boards are fixed on top of the waterproofing with nails. To do this, you need to fill the wall of the board vertically, and then fix the horizontal elements on them, in the direction from the bottom up. The next layer is installed on the previous one with an overlap of 20 mm.
6. Sealant is applied to the joints of the boards. In this case, it is best to use polyurethane compounds. They have high elasticity and are able to withstand sprains and damage.
7. Next, the finish coat is applied. In most cases, varnish is used for this coating, which is applied with a brush.

How is the sheathing of the house with boards of other types?

This option for finishing the facade parts of the building is not the most economical. You should know that only specialists can perform high-quality boarding at home with boards.

The cladding of the facade of the house can be made in the form of a lining using flat or unhewn boards. Laying elements is overlapped. This can be done through the use of special boards in which there are tongue-and-groove or quarter joints. This type of cladding is used for finishing work on walls made of bricks or blocks.

This type of sheathing combines decorative and heat-insulating functions. The latter option is used in the case of warming "dry" method.

Sheathing the facade of a private house with boards: technology

Wood is a material of organic origin, as a result of which it rots in a humid environment. Therefore, the cladding of the facade with boards will need to be done with ventilation from the back. In order to create such ventilation, it is necessary to install a wooden crate on the wall.

When installing ventilated facades, a windproof film is used, which is laid as a heater or directly on the base of the wall.

In this way, it will be possible to prevent the weathering of fibrous insulation materials and provide additional heat resistance of the wall. Such a film will block water, but will not be able to prevent steam from escaping the building.

The gap for ventilation between the wall and the wooden sheathing should be 4-5 cm. An ascending air stream will form in it, which is able to remove moisture.

In the lower part of the facade, it will be necessary to provide gaps for free access of air, as well as its subsequent exit under the roof. From below, the holes can be closed with a metal mesh to protect against rodents.

The crate is made of wooden planks with a square or rectangular section.

To reduce water absorption, they need to be impregnated with an antiseptic and special compounds - impregnates.

If the cladding is performed without the use of insulation, then the frame planks must be filled vertically, observing a step of 50-60 cm. If the board is installed vertically, then a double frame must be made.

This can be done by installing horizontal bars on top of vertical ones. If the wall is uneven, then it must be leveled with impregnated plywood pads.

How to strengthen the facade of the boards with your own hands?

The tree will be exposed to environmental influences, so it will need to be protected. The wooden facade will need to be varnished, painted or treated with decorative impregnations. Before applying a protective coating, the wood will need to be coated with a flame retardant composition.

An exception can only be the case when the facade is painted with a special fire-fighting paint. This composition will prevent the boards from igniting even in case of prolonged contact with fire. Ventilated wooden facades will definitely need to be processed in a similar way.

Sheathing the facade of a private house with wood has a large number of advantages. But there is also a disadvantage, which is that the boards require a renewal of the protective surface every few years. If roads of tree species are used for cladding (for example, cedar or teak), then you can not think about the problem with subsequent painting. In addition, these types of wood will practically not be subjected to deformation over a long period of time. Today on the market you can find on sale a fairly large number of boards that have already been processed and painted.

Vertical wall cladding with unedged boards looks more beautiful in interior spaces. For external coatings, horizontal sheathing with unedged boards is most often used, which has an original appearance when fixed with an overlap. Combined cladding can decorate a building inside and out - all you need is diligence and imagination.

Finishing facade elements with wood using boards of various sections is carried out by carpenters and joiners. To sheathe a private house on your own, you need to have relevant work experience and a certain set of electrical tools.

Modern products are made of durable wood species that have an attractive appearance. Thanks to this, facades made using natural material are in constant demand in the building products market and are in no way inferior, but in some ways even superior in their qualities to artificial counterparts.

Front board: types and features

In the old days, the most popular type of cladding board was a lining made of coniferous wood. Now, more and more often, other types of wood (including exotic ones) are used for arranging the facade. The same type of facade board was replaced by materials that differ in thickness, profile, fastening system.

Materials for the manufacture of facade boards

• Larch- one of the most demanded breeds of a tree suitable as a basis of a front board. Its popularity is due to its availability and cost-effectiveness. And larch, and cedar, and Angarsk pine wood do not need to be further processed, since a high percentage of resin content provides the material with durability and the ability to withstand various kinds of external influences. The cladding becomes darker after a while, but this can hardly be counted among the minuses of wood - the facade takes on a more noble look. Tropical types of campas, meranti, teak have similar properties, but their cost is much higher compared to larch.
• Linden, ash, birch- wood species that require special processing for their use in facade cladding. Under the action of high temperatures, the material becomes more durable and dense (almost like oak), and the color shades acquire saturation. Such wood processing is the basis for the manufacture of facade thermal boards.
• Wood-polymer composite- another way of processing the material, allowing the facade board to withstand moisture, temperature fluctuations, mold formation, pest damage. The manufacturing process also involves the addition of a dye that is resistant to fading under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to this, the range of shades and textures of the WPC facade board becomes diverse.

Facade board profiles

A wide variety of wood cladding materials used in the decoration of the facades of cottages, houses, baths, and other buildings of the site may be called a facade board. Their difference is in the profile and mounting methods. What are they like?

• Clapboard, timber imitation, Block House: these types of facade board profiles are connected using tenon grooves, their installation is carried out without gaps.
• Facade board planken- the panel, planed from all sides, has neither grooves nor spikes. To install it, it is required to maintain a small technological gap between the elements, then, if the material begins to expand under the influence of air humidity, the surface of the cladding will not be deformed. At the same time, it is always possible to independently change the damaged board for a new one without having to completely disassemble the facade.
• wood siding. Most often, the siding offered on the market is made of WPC (wood-polymer composite).

The material for finishing the facade of the building can be any. The main rule is the obligatory preliminary preparation of the lining (sanding, impregnation with an antiseptic), and the subsequent coating of the surface with wax, varnish, oil or paint.

Facade board installation

The installation scheme for all types of facade cladding made of wood is the same. To fix the board, a wooden crate is first mounted..

The order of work on the installation of the front board.

All photos from the article

How to finish the house with an overlap board? Is it possible to combine this method of finishing the facade with its insulation? What kind of wood is best to use? How to waterproof the facade, and what impregnations should be used to protect the wood? In our article we will try to find answers to these and some other questions.

Waterproofing

Coating waterproofing is used on facades made of brick, aerated concrete or buta. Wooden walls are closed with rolled material along the crate with an overlap of 10 centimeters. A ventilation gap is left under the waterproofing, which ensures the vapor permeability of the walls.

A special case

If a roof of overlapping boards is mounted, its structure will differ markedly from that adopted for more modern roofing materials.

The traditional installation scheme is as follows:

1. The basis of the roof is on the rafters, and the longitudinal logs laid on the gables of the house are laid flat;
2. At the base of the ramp, the so-called stream is hung on hooks - a log hollowed out inside, which acts as a drain;
3. The board is laid along the slopes in two layers. In this case, the lower edge of both layers of the board rests against the stream, and the upper one is pressed down by a log - cold.

In the photo - a house with a wooden roof.

With the use of modern waterproofing materials, this scheme can be significantly simplified:

1. A crate of a board or a bar is stuffed on the slab;
2. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the crate, released to the edge of the gutter;
3. A counter-lattice of a thin lath is stuffed onto the waterproofing;
4. The board is laid parallel to the slopes with an overlap to prevent water leakage.

The main problem of a wooden roof will be the deformation of the boards due to constant fluctuations in humidity.

To prevent deformation, protective impregnations - water repellents are used. Of the most famous impregnations, it is worth mentioning Aquatex - Extra and ... ordinary drying oil. It is applied to the surface of the board heated in a water bath, in two layers without intermediate drying.

An important point: impregnation will have to be repeated every two to three years.
In terms of practicality, boards are not the best material for roofing.

sheathing

How to sheathe a house with an overlap board with your own hands?

• Sheathing starts at the bottom;
• Several spacers are stuffed under the bottom of the first board- scraps of wood, allowing you to fix it at the right angle to the wall;
• The following boards are fastened with an overlap of 5 centimeters. Fasteners (nails or screws) are hidden.

Joints and gaps are filled with polyurethane sealant. As a final coating, weather-resistant paint or decorative and protective impregnations can be used.

Conclusion

Today, natural materials are becoming popular again, not only for construction, but also for house cladding. One of these materials is wood, which is not only environmentally friendly, but also gives the structure an unusually attractive appearance. Sheathing at home can be done using different techniques, but the edged board, overlapped, looks best. This option is usually used when a low building, a country house in country style, is being finished. After sheathing, the board can be varnished, painted, impregnated with special oils in order to maintain its original appearance.

The scheme of filing the eaves of the roof.

The process itself, how to sheathe a house with a do-it-yourself edged board, is not so complicated, but it is necessary to strictly observe all the conditions and stages, use high-quality boards, special additional elements in the form of corners. For work, a board of two types and corner elements are used. The inner one acts as a frame, the corners are mounted for the inner and outer parts of the facade. The outer board will be front.

Installation of the inner board

Sheathing the house with an overlap board.

Covering the house with a board is carried out according to pre-compiled marks, a frame is required for fastening the outer board. During operation, it is recommended to use an ordinary hammer; a special nail gun is not used. It is this feature that makes the work of cladding a house with wood so long, requiring patience.

If self-tapping screws are used to fasten the inner board, then you can purchase a screwdriver. This will speed up the work, make it better, but the inner row will still have to be fixed with nails, they should have a length of 80 mm. Before you start fixing the board, you must first treat it with an antiseptic and dry it. After that, each element is cut to obtain the required length. The front side of the board is placed outward, the bend should be directed upwards.

Installation of the outer board

After all the inner boards are installed, it is necessary to proceed with the fasteners of the outer ones. How to do it right?

Installation is carried out in an overlap, while each previous one should be laid on an adjacent board with an approach of 250 mm.

Horizontal trim around the window.

An overlap is pre-marked on each board so that the work goes quickly and efficiently. When drying, the material may be slightly deformed. Therefore, at the time of purchase, it is best to use well-dried wood.

Tools for work:

• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• hammer;
• ruler and building level.

During the exterior cladding of the house, it is necessary to use a building level so that the surface of the facade finish is smooth and beautiful.

Options for joining boards for external wall cladding.

There are many options for fastening an external edged board:

1. In rustic, with the lower end parts protruding at an angle, the groove is made at the bottom.
2. With a bevel in the groove. A complex profile is used, the outer skin is beautiful and stylish, the thickness of the board is significant.
3. In semi-rustic. The surface of the wall is smooth with small triangular grooves, the board is cut at an angle, the groove connection is not used, the overlap is angular.
4. With a slope in a quarter. The surface of the facade is smooth, a complex profile is used for connection
5. Straight quarter. The surface of the facade is smooth and beautiful, the board is laid firmly and tightly, moisture does not get any opportunity to flow under the skin. Grooves for fasteners are cut at a right angle, the connection is one of the most reliable and simple.
6. Into the tongue. To lay the board, a tongue and groove connection is used, it is important to cut the grooves using a template. Otherwise, a reliable connection will not work. The facade has a smooth and beautiful surface, moisture does not flow into the wall, drafts will not bother you, as well as heat loss.
7. Glue mounting. The board is glued, there is no overlap.

When sheathing a house with a wooden board, experts advise following certain rules that will ensure a beautiful and durable finish:

1. For work, it is best to take a board that is planed on one side and not on the other. The rough side of the material is mounted outward. Then the primer, and then the paint, will hold much better and longer, and the appearance of the house will turn out to be more attractive.
2. Boards do not need to be nailed only at the bottom and top, as the material will easily split and absorb moisture. It is necessary to use the fastening option staggered, when the boards are fixed on the surface of the facade with a step of 30-45 cm, i.e. in a checkerboard pattern.
3. For cladding the house, you can use wood of various species. It can be cedar, pine, spruce, mahogany. Based on their experience, it is best to use cedar boards. They are not only durable, but also easy to process and have a beautiful appearance. Mahogany is difficult to process, it is difficult to drive a nail into the surface, although it does not warp over time. Pine has many useful properties, but for external use it is not very good, as it easily warps and splits. Spruce is rarely used for outdoor facade work, although its performance is much better than that of pine. Spruce boards are replete with knots, and this does not affect the quality in the best way.
4. Sheathing a house is best done with ordinary steel nails, not galvanized ones. The problem is that the galvanized layer is easily peeled off during installation, and under the influence of moisture, the nails quickly rust. Stainless steel is much more expensive, but the quality of the finish is higher.

Sheathing a building with an edged board is an attractive and simple option for any country house. Such a facade is not only stylish, but also environmentally friendly. After laying the board can be varnished, painted, impregnated with oil. It all depends on the imagination of the owner of the house, the general style of construction.