The main diseases of phalaenopsis orchids and effective methods for their treatment. Phalaenopsis orchid diseases and methods of their treatment with a photo Black spots on orchid leaves what to do

It's from childhood. Maybe a phalaenopsis orchid? What can happen to a plant?

History of their development known from the beginning of descriptions by natural scientists:

How to distinguish phalaenopsis? Although it is difficult to confuse it with any other.

Phalaenopsis.

It's just hard to remember the name:

• Only 5-6 elongated leaves(from 5 to 30 cm). Evergreens;
• Powerful and long peduncles from the leaf axils. Maybe not one;
• They have a different number of quite large flowers resembling colorful butterflies;
• From the same sinuses and aerial roots.

So that you know! As with many unique and exotic plants and animals, demand has already taken a toll on orchid natural habitats.

Some types of phalaenopsis can only be seen in pictures and descriptions. Here also establish rules of trade and accept Conventions. To keep and protect them.

Causes of leaf pathologies

Advice and wishes! Do not hesitate to consult with specialists of specialized flower shops. Where will they help you pick up the soil. And one more thing to suggest. Is free!

Even proper care can not always protect against viruses and fungal diseases. But they need to be detected in time and correct measures taken.

Orchids are not trusted by amateurs. Do not exclude the possibility of their presence of viruses in purchased copies or donated ones.

It is prestigious and popular to give such flowers.

It's very nice to receive them.

Attention! The conditions of our apartments and houses are not always suitable for Phalaenopsis orchids. Not everyone has China or Southeast Asia in the room. And not everyone has the opportunity to have a greenhouse.

The most popular and famous:

Phalaenopsis Luddemann

pathogens

• You can't take your eyes off the blooming orchids. Harmony in everything. This is if you create optimal conditions for their cultivation;
• But not everything is perfect. The occurrence of any problem gives rise to other problems. And most of all, this can be determined by the leaves of orchids.

Viral

The most dangerous for these plants a group of viral diseases;

Name of viruses even many flower growers do not know. This is not so important.

The appearance of spots indicates a disease.

fungal

• The development of fungal diseases is not as fast as bacterial. But more harm from them.. They are also more resistant to fungicides;
• Mushroom pathogens can appear from spores;
• They are:
  • In the air and in the ground;
  • On other plants nearby;
  • And even on your clothes;
  • And at the first opportunity, ready to develop and act.

Bacterial

• For each disease is its carrier. And the exciter;
• These are the bacteria that cause root rot:
• You should note on depressions (dents) of brown and black spots on the orchid;
• Blackening and death of leaves;
• It can also reach plant death. If you do not find it in time and do not take measures for treatment.

Erwinia (erwinia) - the causative agent of wet rot (bacteriosis).

At low temperatures and lack of light.

acidovorax (acidovorax) - dark small dots with a yellow rim can turn into black spots on orchid leaves.

Depressions and wrinkling. High humidity at temperatures above 25-27 degrees.

Types of spots and names of diseases

Before talking about specific diseases, take note.

Most diseases are the consequences of any of your actions.Something overlooked. Or they showed too much zeal.

So I want to increase the first two positions.

Even experts advise:

• so much that very difficult to determine especially for beginners. And we can say for sure only after laboratory evaluations;
• But it is important to make the correct diagnosis. Like in medicine. And in a timely manner.

Dark (Urticaria)

• Everyone knows the reasons:
  • All the same high humidity at low temperatures;
  • And a broken fan. Which did not allow air aeration.

Hives.

• Symptoms:
  • Rounded, often oval, brown spots. Small at first (2-3 mm in diameter);
  • They are expanding rapidly.
• Your action to eliminate the disease:
  • Remove damaged parts where there are dark spots;
  • Disinfect cuts with fungicides;
  • Create optimal conditions;
  • Raise the temperature;
  • Repair fan. Ventilate the room.

Light fast growing (Bacillius Cypriped)

• With the onset of wet days (and this can be spring, summer, and autumn), your pets are at real risk of this bacterial disease;
• It is high humidity that can be naughty;
• And the time from the onset of the disease and before the period "it's all over" very little:
  • In the morning, they did not attach importance to the first symptoms (coke that appeared). Or maybe there was no time to do anything;
  • A light brown spot found during the day may turn brown and already rotten the next morning.

The spot on the leaf quickly increases in size.

The next day, the stain may begin to rot.

Your actions:

• Straightaway if found, cut off the affected parts of the leaves. Treat cuts with fungicides. Stop for plant time. 7-10 days should be enough;
• It rained on the street– spray sterilization powders;
• Ventilate the premises. Maybe with a fan;
• And cleaning the room will not interfere with maintaining the necessary regime.

Dry brown

Black growing (late blight)

Dark, yellow uneven with leaf depression effect

Depressed with yellow rim (Anthracnose)

How to proceed:

Attention! If it is problematic to leave something after pruning, you will be forced to part with this plant.

Fungal infections - blackening and twisting of the leaves

The appearance of a fungus is a signal that some kind of misfortune should be expected. After all, it is not always possible at home create an optimal climate for these wayward plants. Rather sensitive and fastidious. After all, this must be done both in winter and in summer. Also in autumn and spring.

You can find them on pets. Minor irregularities (bumps) pose a serious threat.

They are various colors:

• brownish,
• light,
• Dark green.

Attention:

• Do not try to cut or knock them off;
• Cut leaves with affected areas without delay;
• Gently wipe the sections with activated charcoal.

Small bumps appear on the leaves.

Advice! Do not buy orchids with such tubercles. You can also infect existing plants at home.

A beautiful plant, he has enough pain.

In addition to those discussed above, you may discover:

• gray rot;
• black rot;
• rust;
• Brown spotting;
• Powdery dew.

Fungicides(Fitosporin, Vectra, Skor) keep on hand.

Trust the experts. And to numerous amateurs with experience in growing.

Less costly and more pleasant to carry out the prevention of plant diseases.

Especially fungi. How to treat them:

• As written in the recommendations, water and maintain humidity (40-70%);
• Ventilate. How much and how - be guided by the weather outside the windows;
• Take a look at the plant! A pest (tick, scale insect) can also twist the leaf;
• Inventing new things is better in other cases.

Bacterial lesions - leaf frostbite effect

Please note! The disease itself proceeds faster than the fungus.

• Yes and excessive moisture in the roots can contribute to this:
  • Bacillus cypriped;
  • Brown rot;
  • Chlorosis;
  • Bacterial spotting;
  • And also burkholderriagladioli (like frostbite).

And also:

• Sterile scissors both blades and various fungicides will help you help the plant defeat the disease;
• Including the famous Zelenka and charcoal.

Prevention

Get to know your new copy well.

It is important to know everything about it:

• The name of;
• What loves;
• What does not love;
• What just endures;
• For all seasons.

Attention! Very important! Watch the leaf axils. Water must not accumulate there. Problems then can not be avoided! It is more expedient to spray the air in the room than the plant itself. Wipe the leaves dry after watering.

• As it is in his native places, I will not speak. I doubt they do it there. And you just need it. You can "Kemira": 1 g per 1 liter of water;
• The soil specific. It is easier to buy in special stores than to make the appropriate proportion yourself from bark, charcoal, sphagnum and perlite;
• Separate topic. Determine the right time. But not just a period.

That will be healthy flowering plants. With beautiful flowers and leaves.

Useful video

Watch the video about the appearance of spots on the leaves of phalaenopsis:

Video from experienced flower growers about removing a spot on a phalaenopsis orchid leaf:

Video grower advice on how to effectively defeat the disease:

Video description of phalaenopsis diseases associated with care errors:

• Nowadays it is customary to give flowers in pots. This is not a bouquet for 1-2 weeks. In my practice, there were cases when a bouquet of roses could not stand even a couple of hours before the ceremonies;
• phalaenopsis is better to give yourself than to receive as a gift;
• If you want to keep her longer, try to get to know her well.

In contact with

An orchid is a proud and rather whimsical flower; it is not for everyone to breed. Growing an orchid is a laborious process, you are worried about any change. For example, seemingly so simple - white spots on orchid leaves appear for several reasons.

The first reason is the external influence on the flower. Flower growers, and often amateurs can make such a mistake, pour a flower - an orchid does not like plentiful baths. Watering the flower is required with great care, you can not leave the leaves lowered into a basin of water. In this case, depressed white spots appear. Unfortunately, the leaves can no longer be given their original shape, the changes will remain on the sheet. There are white spots with a black border - they appear under the influence of the sun or banal drying. And with such damage, the leaf can be removed immediately, it will not turn green again. From the bright sun, the orchid should be darkened.

A more dangerous disease for an orchid can be caused by infection with a fungus. White spots appear, which at first are very similar to a burn and therefore the treatment is usually delayed. Unlike burn injuries, with a fungal disease, the spots grow and cover an increasing area. Over time, the spots can become brownish or even black, and spores appear on them. The first step is to remove the flower away from other plants. Remove the damaged part of the sheet, necessarily treating the cut with an antiseptic. The disease may recede, but this is a temporary event. After a few days, the fungus returns and the plant becomes sick with more force. You need to fight the fungus with special means, you can buy them at your nearest flower shop. The main thing is not to start the disease, because the orchid can lose all the leaves.

Orchid roots rot

The easiest to care for and relatively non-capricious orchid is phalaenopsis. The healthy roots of this orchid, about 5 millimeters thick, have a sheath that can store water. Moistened roots become green with light strokes, dried ones acquire a silvery tint. If the orchid's roots rot, they turn brown, and when pressed, moisture oozes out of them.

Such a nuisance with an orchid can happen for various reasons: fungal infection, violation of light and temperature regimes. The most common mistake in caring for orchids, which leads to rotting of the plant's roots, is improper watering.

The immutable rule of watering orchids says that it is necessary to water only when the substrate is completely dry, that is, about once a week or less. Stagnation of water, overflow is deadly for a delicate orchid. Stagnation of water in the pan for more than half an hour threatens the plant with a lack of air and overheating or hypothermia of the roots. This is even more dangerous than overdrying the substrate.

There are several ways to water orchids. It is necessary to study them so as not to harm your exotic pet !!!.
In the event of root rot, immediate action must be taken to help the plant. The rotten part of the roots is removed to living tissue, the sections are treated with colloidal sulfur, crushed charcoal.

If you had to remove all the roots, then the socket should be powdered with Potassium Humate, Kornevin, Root and planted in a new substrate. Once a month it is useful for the plant to add 2-3 drops of Zircon to the water for irrigation. This will speed up rooting. You can create conditions for a mini-greenhouse using a plastic bag with mandatory daily airing for 20 minutes.

What to do if the orchid dries or withered?

What to do if the orchid dries? First of all, it is necessary to decide what phenomenon we call the term "orchid dries". We will not try, in our short article, to cover all the possible reasons for the “drying” of an orchid, we will focus on a few, most often found among novice orchid lovers.

1. Flowers wither and dry, while the peduncle remains green.

3. The bottom leaf of the orchid turns yellow and dries out.

4. Wither, turn yellow and dry all the leaves of the orchid and wrinkle, darken the roots.

Now let's look at each item separately.

1. If the flowers wither and dry.

This may be the natural withering of the oldest flowers, but the rest have a normal appearance and the peduncle remains green.

Flowers can wither and dry out at high temperatures (over 25°C) and low air humidity (less than 60% relative humidity) for a long time (more than 6 hours).

Orchid flowers will wither and dry out with a constant dry draft, late watering, then the orchid evaporates moisture faster than it receives from the roots.

What to do? - Eliminate constant drafts, ventilate periodically, for 10-15 minutes two to three times a day. Create suitable humidity and watering for the orchid.

This is what healthy, moist Phalaenopsis orchid roots look like.

2. The flowers withered and fell off, the peduncle turns yellow and dries.

Flowering has stopped, this may be the natural process of flowering completion, or it may be the cessation of flowering due to adverse conditions, such as a long dry period or chronic overflow, a long period of insufficient light. Regardless of the reasons, flowering has stopped and will resume after a while, which depends on the method of growing the orchid - intensive or classic, and on the type of orchid. Phalaenopsis can bloom in the second month after the end of the previous flowering.

What to do? - Do not leave the orchid unattended for a long time, eliminate adverse conditions as soon as you find them.

3. Yellowing and drying of the bottom sheet or two of an orchid is a natural process, sometimes this happens due to care errors. The most common mistake is waterlogging the substrate, while the roots remain wet for a long time, suffocate and rot. The leaves don't get enough moisture, but keep losing it through transpiration, in order to survive, the plant sheds old leaves, reducing the area of ​​transpiration.

What to do? At this stage, the orchid can be saved by taking resuscitation measures.

4. Wither, turn yellow and dry all the leaves of the orchid and wrinkle, darken the roots if the orchid is maliciously flooded for a long time, the roots completely die, the rot from the roots makes its way to the stem and then it will be very difficult to save the orchid. But, nevertheless, it is worth carrying out resuscitation procedures, and suddenly it will be possible to save the plant.

All the leaves can still dry out in deciduous orchids by the dormant period, this is a natural process, the roots do not change.

If the leaves of an orchid turn yellow, what should I do?

No one will like it if the leaves of an orchid turn yellow. Of course, you understand with your mind that the old leaves should turn yellow and dry, but a feeling of slight annoyance appears: “Eh! A leaf less! But if the leaves turn yellow one after another, or for some unknown reason it turns yellow, it seems, not an old leaf - this is seriously disturbing. What to do?

First of all, you need to carefully examine the orchid and the place where it stands. If the orchid leaves turn yellow on one side, this may be caused by excessive heating from the direct rays of the sun.

What to do? If the direct rays of the sun hit the leaves of the orchid, shade it, or rearrange it to another place.

Another reason for yellow leaves may be regular overdrying of the substrate. At the same time, the leaves become lethargic, wrinkled and eventually turn yellow and dry out from lack of moisture.

What to do? Water more often, do not keep the substrate dry, especially in summer.

Paradoxically, the same symptom (yellowing of leaves) can be caused by a completely opposite cause - chronic waterlogging of the substrate. Constantly wet roots suffocate and die, the orchid does not receive moisture due to rotten roots, and the leaves wither and turn yellow.

What to do? Depending on the degree of damage to the roots, either increase the interval between waterings (if there are living roots), or immediate resuscitation of the orchid (if no living roots were found during the examination).

And it happens that water gets into the bosom of the leaf and stagnates, for example, with abundant spraying or inaccurate watering. Rot or fungus starts in it and the base of the leaf is damaged, food is not supplied and it turns yellow.

What to do? If the leaf has already turned yellow, remove it and carefully inspect the stem and other leaves, depending on the disease, start treatment.

Now you know what to do if the orchid leaves turn yellow, and remember that the problem is easier and cheaper to prevent than to solve.

How to revive an orchid

Many flower growers who have bought an orchid flower are faced with the fact that over time the plant stops blooming. It can be in a state of sleep for quite a long time, so the question arises: how to revive an orchid?

You can wake up an orchid in many ways, but all of them, without exception, are based on creating a stressful situation for the flower. In a state of stress, the flower begins to prepare for the worst and, having gathered all its strength, throws out the peduncle.

You can create a stressful environment for a flower by lowering the temperature and reducing the number of waterings. For abundant flowering of an orchid, it is necessary to create conditions so that the night temperature is at least 5-7 degrees lower than the daytime temperature.

You can also wake up an orchid by hot watering. You need to water the flower with water, the temperature of which is 36-38 degrees. Water in a thin stream must first be poured onto the roots from above, and then into the pan with water. Fertilizer can be added to the watering container with water and left for 20 minutes to dissolve before watering.

You can also wake up the sleeping beauty by transplanting and changing the soil, to the soil specially created for orchids. The plant should be transplanted into larger flowerpots. In most cases, after transplantation, the orchid begins to bloom.

How to keep an orchid alive.

Girl, what do you recommend for saving my hair? asks the half-bald man in the general store, running his hand coquettishly over his head.

The young lady, looking at him, smiled sweetly and holds out a box with the words:

This velvet box will suit you best!

The golden rule of an orchid lover is that it is better not to top up an orchid than to overfill it!

If, after watering the orchid, the substrate does not completely dry out in 3 to 5 days, then it is too moisture-intensive for your conditions, or the pot has poor drainage. In this case, the death of the roots is possible.

For watering orchids, you need to use water with a minimum amount of salt. If the water is hard, you need to boil it, and then defend and slightly acidify. It is best to water orchids with warm water, 2 to 3 degrees warmer than air. And when spraying, it should be even warmer than air, by 5-10 degrees. You need to spray orchids with distilled water - in this case there will be fewer spots.

Preserved odontoglossum.

With an intensive method of growing orchids, it is necessary to provide intensive additional illumination with artificial light sources in October - February.

When the orchid is in a period of active growth, their need for light is greatest. High illumination is also necessary during the formation of flower buds and the development of peduncles. During flowering, the illumination does not need to be specially increased.

Callus on the lip of an orchid is a variety of outgrowths - tubercles, scallops, rollers.

Does an orchid need to be repotted after purchase?

Almost all novice orchid lovers are concerned about the question: Does an orchid need to be transplanted after purchase?
If the orchid came to you from the store, and it doesn’t matter if you bought it yourself or received it as a gift, then most likely it does not need an urgent transplant.

In fact, it is possible to give an accurate and unambiguous answer to this question only by seeing the orchid itself.

It happens that before the orchid came to you, it was not well looked after, or simply not looked after, and it does not look good.

What signs may indicate the need to transplant an orchid after purchase. Here the Florist will list the most common cases in his practice. You may have found other reasons why you have to transplant an orchid immediately after purchase. If you share your experience in the comments, other readers will be grateful to you.

So, in what cases does an orchid need to be transplanted after purchase?

An orchid in a pot does not stand on its own. Yes, yes, it also happens, the leaves or pseudobulbs have developed unilaterally and the center of gravity goes beyond the pot and the orchid turns over. Or the peduncle with the support deviated strongly from the vertical, which also unbalances the orchid. In this case, a radical way to solve the problem is a transplant. Although, you can put the orchid in a heavy glass pot. And you can align the peduncle with the support by removing and reinstalling the support in a vertical position.
There is little substrate in the pot and the orchid "dangles" in it. In this case, the support for the peduncle will also tilt and overwhelm the plant with the pot. In this case, there are options. You can add the substrate and gently compact it in the same pot or immediately transplant it into another, possibly larger pot.
The orchid has some root problems. For example, in a Phalaenopsis orchid, thanks to a transparent pot, you can see spoiled roots. If there are a lot of problematic roots, about half of all visible ones, the orchid will have to be transplanted. It is necessary to remove all damaged roots and plant the orchid in a new substrate. You may have to sacrifice flowers, for that save the plant. There have been cases when such an orchid is not transplanted, but according to the statistics of the Flowerman, the probability of survival is about 50: 50. A lot depends on your skill in caring for orchids.
You absolutely want to see your orchid in a different pot. There are no options here.

Flowering orchid transplant

More recently, the orchid was considered a very rare and inaccessible flower. Those who want to have this flower at home should know that a careful transplant of a blooming orchid will not spoil it at all. It is worth following simple rules.

If the orchid blooms, then you can transplant it. This must be done correctly in order to preserve blossoming flowers and preparing buds. If during transplantation, you find significant problems with the roots, then you need to cut the flowers from the plant yourself. You should not feel sorry for them, if they are not removed, they will take away the strength of the orchid. If the roots are in order, then take the next step.

Prepare a transparent plastic pot in advance, you can take the previous one. The new substrate for transplantation should consist of treated bark and sphagnum. Carefully remove the plant from the pot, if the roots hold tight, it is better to cut the pot. The main thing is not to break the fragile roots. We remove the old substrate, the roots that have grown together do not need to be injured. To free the roots from the remnants of moss, you can rinse them in warm water, then dry them on a newspaper. When the roots are dry, inspect. All rotten roots must be cut with a sharp disinfected knife to living tissue and cauterized with brilliant green. All dry roots cannot be removed, cut off only those that look like parchment.
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If the orchid has faded, do not worry. Of course, it is nice to see flowers blooming, but their wilting is sad. But, the loss of flowers does not always mean the end of flowering, this applies to the Phalaenopsis orchid (phalaenopsis). Therefore, first of all, decide in the orchid catalog what your orchid is called and find out the features of its dormant period. Usually, watering is reduced, that is, it is not watered abundantly and the next watering is done when the substrate becomes dry. This period can last from a couple of weeks to several months, depending on the type of orchid. A sign of the end of the dormant period may be the appearance of new shoots in sympoidal orchids, and the growth of new leaves in monopoidal ones. At the end of the dormant period, return to regular watering.

And if the phalaenopsis orchid has faded? So, in a phalaenopsis orchid, flowers can suddenly fall off. So the orchid can respond to sudden changes in the conditions of detention:
- drying of the soil, while the roots in the pot become light silvery, and the leaves become lethargic;
- staying for several hours in a dry, hot atmosphere or in a strong draft, while the flower petals lose moisture faster than it enters the flower, and the roots in the pot look normal, wet;
- a sharp drop in temperature for twelve or more hours below 16 C in combination with dry air or a draft, while the movement of juices in the plant slows down, and the evaporation of moisture from the surfaces increases;
- sharp and strong odors, for example, oranges are peeled in a room with a phalaenopsis orchid and the peel is left here for a long time or a Christmas tree is brought in before the new year, while a large concentration of essential oils arises;
- high concentration of ethylene gas released by ripe fruit, for example, closed the windows and doors in the room, leaving the orchid and the fruit bowl there overnight.

If such factors are short enough, and the phalaenopsis orchid itself was not affected, flowering may continue with the normalization of conditions. At the end of the orchid peduncle and its side branches there is a so-called “growth point”, if it is green and not damaged, flowering will continue. It happens that the “growth point” is damaged, or the peduncle after the flowers fall is not aesthetically pleasing, then it (the peduncle) can be cut 1-1.5 cm above the sleeping bud. Sleeping buds are on the peduncle and are protected by scales.

If the orchid peduncle changed its color from green to another, yellow-brown or pink-purple and began to dry out, then flowering has stopped. In this case, the peduncle must be removed by cutting it as low as possible.

A flower pot is immersed in water at room temperature. and keep in it until the bark absorbs a sufficient amount of water.

It is important in this make sure that the tips of the leaves are not immersed in water, because as a result, white oval spots with a hole in the middle can form on them, which will undoubtedly spoil the overall aesthetic effect.

White spots with a black border - as a result of the drying of the plant

If the orchid is kept in a room with insufficiently humid air for a long time, watering is carried out out of time and in small quantities, white spots with a black border may form on the leaf plates.

Such a symptom should make it clear that irrigation system needs to be adjusted. and increase the humidity immediately.

Important! It will not be possible to restore the aesthetic appeal of the leaves even if measures to change the conditions for keeping the flower are taken very quickly. But we can say for sure that this will allow the grower to learn the necessary lessons and be more attentive in the future.

Infection with fungal diseases

Another possible cause of white plaque on the sheet is fungal disease powdery mildew. This disease appears as loose white coating on leaves and buds, sometimes on a stem or peduncle.

In this case, you should immediately start treatment with colloidal sulfur or other containing sulfur compounds that will help cure the plant.

Important! An indirect reason for the rapid development of powdery mildew pathogens is dry air, so it is very important to ensure that the humidity and frequency of watering correspond to the level required for the orchid.

Mealybug

Also, the cause of white spots can be mealybug pest. These are small insects 3-6 mm in size. The pest leaves specific white discharge.

To combat it, you can use folk remedies or chemicals-insecticides.

Folk remedies such:

• Option 1: cook laundry soap solution at the rate of 10 grams of soap per 0.5 liters of warm water and add a teaspoon of alcohol. The resulting solution is wiped with orchid leaves.
• Option 2: horsetail infusion from a pharmacy, diluted with water 1 to 1.
• Option 3: Crush 4 into half a liter of water, strain and wipe the leaves and infected areas of the orchid.

Insecticides: for the leaves of the plant, - for processing the roots.

Plant treatment

Depending on why the white spots appeared, treatment will vary. The most important thing in this is to correctly understand the cause and eliminate it.

Help with dehydration

If the cause of the change in the appearance of the sheet plate is it will not be possible to return the previous healthy appearance to the sheet. To improve the aesthetic effect, it will only be possible to completely remove it with a sharp knife, sprinkling the incision site with crushed coal.

How to eliminate the defeat from burns on the leaves?

If the leaf is affected, spots appear on it - there is practically no chance of returning his healthy appearance. Burn marks on them are irreversible, so it is worth eliminating the cause of the changes and continue to be more attentive to the flower.

Dry plant care

White spots resulting from a plant or a long stay in a room with dry air, cannot disappear after watering or changing conditions for the better.

Normalizing the conditions of the plant will help prevent the recurrence of this problem for new leaves.

How to eliminate the consequences of a fungal infection?

Elimination of the consequences of the defeat of the orchid by the fungus should happen like this:

• Removal of the affected plant organ so that the infection does not spread to other parts of the orchid;
• Regulation air humidity;
• Permanent airing the room in which the plant is located. Orchids respond very well to a constant supply of fresh air;
• Application immunosuppressive drugs( , ), which will help the flower recover faster;
• Careful regular visual inspection to avoid relapse.

White sunken spots - what is it and how is it treated?

Such spots can appear as a result of an improper watering system - most often this happens with too frequent and abundant watering and the use of hard water. This problem is easy to solve - adjust the amount and frequency of watering.

Related videos

Watch the video on how to deal with white spots on an orchid:

And this video shows gray spots on the leaves:

And here are the symptoms of infection and the fight against mealybug in orchids:

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to emphasize once again the importance of regular visual inspection of the orchid, because the sooner the problem is noticed, the sooner it will be possible to take measures to eliminate it and the less damage to the plant.

Care, attention and careful care - this is what will allow your orchid to be healthy, grow actively and delight you with regular long bright flowering.

In contact with

Fungal diseases on orchid leaves

Orchid diseases are a fairly common phenomenon. Most often, representatives of the orchid family suffer from various rot and fungal diseases. But they are also susceptible to viral diseases. The most common orchid diseases and their treatment are described in detail below.

One of the most dangerous and common fungal diseases. The first signs of the disease appear within 12 hours from the moment of infection. Young shoots are the first to suffer. They become black and covered with a slimy coating. Black rot most often affects such types of orchids as, and.

Causes of occurrence:

• Constant overheating of the roots.
• High ambient humidity level.
• Too dense substrate.
• An excess of nitrogen.

Preventive measures:

• Compliance.
• Airing.
• Use specialized for orchids.
• Regular processing from .

Treatment

The first thing to do when black rot is found is to isolate diseased plants from healthy ones. The harmful fungus is easily transmitted by contact, so it is rather difficult to treat fungal diseases of orchids. To exclude further infection of healthy tissues, the entire cutting tool must be calcined or treated with alcohol.

Causes of occurrence:

• Abundant watering
• Low air temperature
• Wrong soil used when planting

Prevention and treatment

The best prevention of occurrence is the use of a specialized high-quality for planting. And also the plant must be looked after accordingly and strictly observed.

Treatment of the roots of the affected plant begins with their disinfection in a fungicide solution and the removal of rotten areas. The substrate is also processed. To do this, use Fundazol powder or Topsin. Treat the plant at least 3 times with an interval of two weeks. For the most complete disinfection, the plant pot is simply immersed in a fungicide solution for 10 minutes.

Root rot in Paphiopedilium

Fusarium rot

Gray rot, manifestations of signs of disease on orchid flowers.

Leaf spot of bacterial origin

Phalaenopsis orchid diseases can also manifest themselves in the form of various leaf lesions. For example, if the irrigation regime is not followed and the air temperature is high, bacterial spotting begins to spread on the plants.

First, the affected leaf blades begin to turn yellow, then they darken, become soft, and cracks begin to appear on their surface. The most characteristic sign of bacterial leaf spot is wet black spots on the surface of the leaf blades.

Treatment

To treat an infected plant, all spots on the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid are cut out with a pre-disinfected sharp instrument. After that, the wound surface is treated with charcoal powder or an alcohol solution of iodine.

In cases where dark spots have occupied almost the entire surface of the leaf or damage has already affected the central vein, undiluted Fitolavin is used for processing. It has the ability to persist in tissues for a long time. If within 2 weeks after the treatments there are no signs of the disease, it is considered that the plant has fully recovered.

Bacterial spots on orchid leaves

Anthracnose

Problems with orchid leaves also occur with anthracnose. Its characteristic feature is small dots on the leaves, which later increase in size, turning into specks, after which they merge. The places of such mergers acquire a black color and become, as it were, depressed. At the last stage of the development of the disease, yellow spots appear.

Causes of occurrence:

• High air humidity
• Stagnation of water in the axils of the leaves
• Poorly ventilated area

Prevention and treatment

The orchid is a very beautiful plant. It is quite demanding on the conditions of detention, and if you do not properly care for the flower, then trouble will begin. Quite often, white spots appear on orchid leaves. Why this happens, and how to save the plant, we will try to tell you in detail in this article.

Causes of stains

As we have already found out, orchid leaves can suffer due to improper care:

1. In direct sunlight, yellow dots may appear on the leaves. It is necessary to correctly choose the location where your orchid will be located.
2. Excess moisture. The plant does not tolerate excess moisture, it should be controlled that the soil does not stagnate with water, otherwise this will lead to rotting of the root system.
3. Fairly poor ventilation. It is required to check, perhaps the container with the flower has too few holes or they are very small. Optimally - there should be a diameter of at least 1 cm. It is necessary to make sure that the holes are placed evenly on the bottom of the pot and along its perimeter.
4. Air stagnation. It is necessary to ventilate the room where the orchid stands well. But only drafts should be eliminated, as this can adversely affect the general condition of the plant.
5. Wrong container. The orchid pot should not be too tight or wide. The flower still needs to be transplanted from time to time. At each transplant, purchase a tank with a volume depending on the size of the root system.
6. Illiterate watering regime. For some varieties it is not recommended to water from above. This can be explained by the fact that moisture accumulates at its base, inducing the process of decay.
7. Not a good enough substrate. It should be loose, without lumps, all elements are distributed equally. From such a substrate, water should drain normally. After moistening, the earth does not clump.
8. Unbalanced supplements. It is important not only to make competent proportions of the components. Professionals advise at a certain time to make top dressing, their quantity, and also observe the frequency. Here you need to take into account the variety of phalaenopsis, its features.

Diseases

The reasons that were mentioned above can lead to such negative consequences as:

1. The appearance of a fungal infection. The fungus is able to infect the leaves and shoot of the orchid. The infection appears due to low temperature and high humidity.
2. The emergence of bacteria. Their development occurs deep in plant tissues. Often this happens when a phalaenopsis has damage to some part. Another factor of rotting can be stagnant moisture.
3. The presence of viral diseases. Occur due to physiological characteristics.

Let's analyze the main problems due to which spots appear on the leaves of phalaenopsis.

Hives

When the disease affects the leaves, dark dots form on them. The size of each defect is approximately 3 mm. The urticaria then spreads throughout the plant.

The main reasons are low temperature, excessive humidity, poor ventilation.

Brown Rot (Bacillus Cypriped)

The most common disease of phalaenopsis. The disease develops at high humidity, temperature. Signs of the disease are small bright spots that are very common.

Then the infected parts become soft, dark in color, have an unpleasant odor. The reason for everything is the illiterate irrigation regime.

Phyllostictina Pyriformis

fungal infection. Yellow and black dots appear. Their size may not change for several months. During this period, the fungus will rapidly develop inside the tissues. As a result, the infection affects the leaf plate, which dies.

late blight

This disease is considered very dangerous for phalaenopsis. Violet color defects appear on the leaves of the flower, which subsequently darken and turn black. Phalaenopsis may die. Such black spots occur due to abundant watering or excessive soil density.

Death of leaf tissue cells (Mesophyll collapse)

Irregular yellow spots appear. Then they seem to push through the infected part. To avoid this, it is only necessary to water the phalaenopsis with warm and settled water.

dry brown dots

With the disease, brown spots appear, which gradually progress throughout the plant. The factor of the disease is high humidity.

Burkholderia gladioli

Bacterial disease, the signs of which are dark spots. Often these spots are mistaken for frostbite.

Bacterial spotting

The leaves are covered with uneven yellow dots about 7 mm. The disease provokes a high temperature regime, unsuitable ventilation.

Chlorosis

When the disease forms black flaws on the leaves of phalaenopsis. Then the leaves curl and the flower dies.

Treatment

If your beauty was struck by the above diseases, then you need to take the following measures:

When phalaenopsis is affected by a bacterial infection, the infected parts must be removed with a sterile instrument. Damaged areas are treated with such means as charcoal, brilliant green, fungicidal preparation.

Favorable conditions must be created for the plant: phalaenopsis is installed in a warm and sunny place with excellent ventilation. And for several days the plant is not watered.

Sometimes, unfortunately, there are such difficulties in which the plant dies. For example, when an orchid is affected by late blight or chlorosis. In order to avoid diseases, it is very important to take preventive measures in a timely manner.

Prevention

Orchid care must be carried out correctly and try to get as close to natural as possible. Only in this case the flower will bloom beautifully and have a magnificent appearance.

Any injury that may occur when removing leaves should be avoided. Since bacteria can easily penetrate through the damaged parts, and the flower may die.

Almost always, the first symptoms of orchid diseases appear as spots on the leaves. If you immediately respond and take appropriate measures, then phalaenopsis will delight you with its amazing beauty.

If sticky spots appear on the leaves of an orchid, then they arise due to pests - it can be whiteflies, mealybugs, aphids, scale insects. What to do in such a situation? If you often wipe the leaves with a damp cloth, you can immediately detect pests and get rid of them.

But when it is not possible to eliminate the insect, for example, it concerns the scale insect, which sucks the juice from the foliage and secretes a sticky secret. You can eliminate the pest with an alcohol solution or use Fitoverm.

If the leaf turns white orchids, then this indicates a mealybug, spraying with fungicides is required against the pest.

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