We sheathe the bath with a wooden clapboard from the inside. Sheathing of the bath inside with clapboard Sheathing of the bath from the inside

The arrangement of the bath complex requires proper attention to the most insignificant nuances. The bath will turn into an ideal place to relax only after a thorough study of the theoretical part and the sequence of actions. And the work done with your own hands will only enhance the positive effect of receiving bath procedures.

Peculiarities

The main feature of the Russian bath is wet steam. To create it, a certain humidity is maintained in the steam room. Humidity and steam balance is achieved by the complete absence of ventilation.

There are a huge number of options for finishing bath rooms. The choice depends on personal preferences and is limited by financial capabilities. Features of interior decoration should traditionally be conducive to relaxation and spiritual pleasure. Therefore, the main thing in interior decoration is naturalness, convenience, minimalism.

For example, an excellent natural decor for a steam room is a natural frame. However, the latest construction technologies involve the use of more modern methods of building a bath, so buildings often require finishing materials.

Additional materials should not adversely affect the basic requirements for a bath:

• steam room, shower room, rest room should have a beautiful and practical design;
• in the steam room, the presence of hot, but not burning steam is important;
• in the shower, both convenience and safety are important.

Properly selected materials will have a positive impact on the functional features of the bath. They will also affect the service life of the walls, floor, ceiling of the premises. It is important to choose materials in the right quality in accordance with the characteristics of the bath rooms.

For example, a steam room is distinguished by the constant presence of hot steam, which comes in a concentrated form and is quite dense. In addition, temperature fluctuations are noted in this room, as well as high humidity.

Many materials may not withstand such an extreme situation. However, the modern market offers a lot of interesting finishes that best suit the conditions of the steam room.

Features of finishing for the steam room should be as follows:

• have the ability to warm up and not accumulate heat;
• be moisture resistant;
• have good aesthetic characteristics;
• be resistant to fungus and mold;
• have the ability to purify the air.

The washing room involves not only washing, but also rest. Classic choice: wood, ceramic tiles. For washing, for example, coniferous wood is suitable. It has high water repellency. In addition, conifers have a beautiful appearance. The floor in this room should have anti-slip properties, as well as a comfortable temperature. Ceramic tiles can help in achieving the result.

As a reliable material for the vestibule and rest room, you can choose:

• porcelain stoneware;
• plaster;
• natural stone;
• wallpaper.

Greater aesthetics and practicality can be achieved by combining these finishes. In a bathhouse created with your own hands, it is possible to realize the most non-standard ideas. Choose the best types of finishes and their variations.

materials

Traditional interior decoration made of wood. The most suitable wooden base for finishing is lining.

These special finishing panels have the main advantages:

• good air circulation;
• zero condensate;
• beautiful appearance;
• simple installation;
• acceptable price.

The best starting material for lining are: larch, linden, alder, ash. Hardwood walls warm up faster, while the outside temperature of the walls remains comfortable for human skin.

Unlike softwoods, hardwoods do not emit resins, so they are considered harmless for steam room walls.

Pine lining, for example, is not at all suitable for a steam room. This base, when heated, will release toxic substances, and is also covered with resin, which can drip from walls, ceilings and cause burns.

Walls

Options for the type of finish "lining" differ in class. For example, class C has a low cost, suitable for finishing the walls of the vestibule. Class B is equipped with contrasting inclusions, cracks, and minor damage. Every 1.5 meters of the length of such a lining suggests the presence of a certain number of knots. The lining is suitable for the design of a rest room in a natural style, as well as for a vestibule.

Clapboard A class allows a few small cracks. However, it does not allow visible cores on the cut. At least one knot may be present per 1.5 meters of length. Class A lining is suitable for finishing the walls of some sections of the steam room.

Premium class lining has an excellent appearance but the appropriate price. The material can be used to veneer the walls of the steam room, rest room, washing room. Linden croaker will serve as an excellent wall decoration. The material does not allow overheating, does not emit resins. Linden panels will serve as high-quality sound insulation; they can be supplemented with an unedged board.

Basalt mineral wool, foil in the form of a film are used to vapor barrier the steam room. Both the walls and the ceiling are sheathed with foil for waterproofing. In order to isolate the stove in the steam room, it is permissible to use brick and salt for finishing.

Himalayan salt can be used in the bath. The salt bath combines the positive properties of a dry steam room and a treatment chamber, having a beneficial effect on a person.

Ceiling

Work related to finishing the ceiling begins with the installation of insulation in the attic. To prevent dust from entering the room, all the cracks between the boards must be covered. Brick chips and other loose options are used as insulation material.

The ceiling of the bath must withstand temperature loads. Finishing materials must withstand steam flows. You should not choose materials for finishing the ceiling that emit toxic substances when heated.

Therefore, it is not recommended to use materials such as plywood or chipboard from the inside - they contain sawdust, which are fire hazardous. Do not choose polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, polyethylene films as insulation, they are afraid of high temperatures.

The construction bases that are relevant for the ceiling of the bath are spruce or pine beams for beams and ceilings, unedged board or tongue and groove for the first ceiling, class A or B linden lining - ceiling lining inside. Aluminum foil, membrane films can be used for vapor barrier, membrane films for waterproofing. You can sheathe the steam room with linden with bast.

Linden croaker with bast is an ideal option for finishing the ceiling of a bath in a natural style.

Floor

The best choice for the floor of all bath rooms, except for the steam room, is ceramic tiles. A block of tiles in the steam room may be present near the stove. A variety of modern collections without much difficulty will allow you to choose the right design for a rest room or washroom. At the same time, tiling will be not only comfortable and aesthetic, but also practical and durable.

The floor of the steam room can be made of concrete or wood. Concrete or stone floors are cold. Therefore, wood is more often preferred. Wooden floors involve the preparation of a foundation on which beams are laid, logs are laid on top of them. The voids between the beams and lags are filled with insulation, which is chosen as expanded clay. A vapor barrier, waterproofing are laid on top of the insulation, then the finishing floor is equipped.

The concrete floor involves the arrangement of the base of crushed stone and clay. Roofing material and bituminous mastic serve as waterproofing. Insulation can be mineral wool or expanded clay. The final layer of the floor is laid on the heat-insulating surface.

Design

For example, a steam room is considered the real heart of the bath, and therefore its interior should be alive, breathing. Synthetic materials are not allowed for use, especially near the stove. All items in the steam room must carry high-quality safety and natural purity.

Combinations of such finishing materials as wall paneling and stone, brick and granite slabs, block house will look especially designer in the steam room. In addition to beauty, the interior of the steam room should carry absolute safety. Therefore, the design in the steam room is often a compromise of choice. Strict curves of the shelves, hidden light, noble stone behind the stove are effective in the sauna steam room.

If a separate room for vacationers is made out in the bath, then all the attention in the design is on comfort. In the first place here is the same naturalness. Curtains with flounces and strict blinds on the windows are appropriate in the design. This bath room is usually compact, but bright.

However, there are no special design requirements. It is desirable that everything be decorated in fairly calm colors, conducive to a comfortable pastime.

A modern bath involves the arrangement of a washing room. It is allowed to install a full plumbing. Often this place is a pool of unimaginable shapes. For lack of space for arranging the pool, showers are arranged in the washing room. Stylish modern shower cabins and places will not take up much, and they will fit well into the interior of the bath. For showers, it is not even necessary to allocate a separate room.

The internal washing room in the Russian bath was also equipped around the stove, in the steam room. Washing items were simple basins and ladles. Taking into account the possibilities of modern materials, all this can be embodied in the current bath buildings.

The design of the bath can be interconnected with the personal perception of colors and their combinations. This feature depends on the physiological structure of the eyes, the state of the nerves, life experience. Psychologists say that for women, color is more important than form, and for men, content is more important. At the same time, a person has the ability to associate something with something all the time.

Bath design - the choice is purely individual, should be based only on a personal idea of ​​\u200b\u200brest.

How to do it yourself?

The basis of the Russian bath is a stove. The best materials for a heater are natural stones, bricks.

An edged board is allowed for floor installation, and the work itself includes several stages.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Getting rid of all debris, leveling the base.
2. Preparation of a concrete screed. This step can be skipped if the rough base is already sufficiently leveled. The base can be covered with sand.
3. Laying brick bases, which will be the support for the log. The height of the brick bases is equal to the height of the flooring.
4. Attaching the lag to the posts. Logs - boards with a section of 25x25 in increments of 100 cm.
5. Laying floor boards. Work should begin from the corner away from the room relative to the doorway. Self-tapping screws are suitable for fasteners. It is important to completely drown the cap in the wood when screwing in the cap.
6. The floor structure must include a drain.

After laying the floor, the walls are covered. For sheathing, a frame base is mounted. Frame material - timber or simple slats. Here it is important to take into account the level of load. For example, shelves are often attached to the walls, the slats will not withstand them. The direction of the frame base should be perpendicular to the lining.

Work steps guide:

1. Install the initial and last rail on the wall with self-tapping screws. The pitch of the guides is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the insulating materials.
2. Reinforce the waterproofing material over the frame.
3. Start working with insulation (for example, mineral wool).
4. Lay a layer of vapor barrier. Separate sheets of material are better fastened with a construction stapler.
5. Proceed with the arrangement of the lining, starting from the far side of the room.

After sheathing the verticals, proceed to the ceiling work. Lining is also allowed for the ceiling. As a frame, an edged board or timber is suitable. The pitch of the frame corresponds to the size of the insulation boards. The frame is installed similarly to the walls.

Step by step instructions:

1. Attach a layer of moisture-repellent base over the frame.
2. Next, fill the gaps with insulation (for example, basalt wool).
3. Align the tiles carefully.
4. On top of the insulation, mount a layer of vapor barrier using a construction stapler. Provide an overlap of 20-30 cm. Glue the joints with aluminum tape.
5. Proceed to the installation of lining.

What materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree is able to create that unique microclimate that will favorably affect the well-being of visitors to the steam room. Yes, and the look is much more pleasant, more familiar wooden panels. And even if the bath is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will prevent you from sheathing the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard with your own hands.

Lining as a product was first used for lining the walls of wagons. This is where its name came from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was obtained without cracks and gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Along with technological progress, the production of various types of lining also stepped forward. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, material of manufacture.

Note! On sale you can find lining made of plastic, but such panels are suitable only for lining the dressing room and changing rooms in the bath. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally emit aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.

Choosing lining for sheathing

Lining made of wood can be ordinary or euro. The first has a roughness and pile on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of eurolining there are ventilation channels that prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensate) and relieve stress in the material. According to, the moisture content of wooden products is allowed within 12 ± 3%, however, ordinary lining can be made of wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during the operation of the bath. Proceeding from this, we will choose a suitable wooden lining for the lining of the bath.

Prices for wooden lining

wooden lining

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from softwood and hardwood. The best options for a steam room are aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, pine.

Wood	Color	Properties	A photo
Aspen	White, acquires a silvery sheen. Barely visible yellow growth rings.	Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to drive even a nail into the aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up.
Linden	Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte finish.	The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up a little, in the steam room it releases healthy aroma components. Upon contact with linden wood in a humid environment, iron oxidizes and rusts, streaks appear.
Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar	Brown with a pink tint.	One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack.
	Beige, brown with red tints. Darkens with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin channels.	Good mechanical properties, viscosity, warping is moderate. Does not cause difficulties in processing. It emits resin when heated, so it does not bypass for sheathing those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. Not suitable for lining the ceiling of a steam room, or repeated heating of the steam room is required, followed by removal of the resin that has come out (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bath, pine lining is better to choose Extra class.

The following table lists the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with a large number of knots heats up faster and can burn. The marking is the same for all types of wooden lining.

class or grade	Description
Extra	No cracks, knots or other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.
A or 1	The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There are 1 healthy knot per 1 running meter (knot diameter not more than 1.5 cm). when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There can be pitchers and resin pockets of 2 pcs. by 1 r.m.
B or 2	A lot of knots, of which there can be no more than 2 pieces falling out. by 1 r.m. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long, hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pcs. per 1 r.m.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.
C or 3	The quality is low. Lots of different defects. Such lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work.

The norms of defects according to GOST are indicated in the table below.

It remains only to choose the lining profile, because. Each one has its own set of nuances.

Profile	Description	Scheme
Standard	It looks like a classic quarter-board lining. It has a thorn-groove connection, and the thorn is shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one in rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensate.
	Produced in accordance with DIN 68126. Has an elongated spike. After mounting the lining, the surface of the wall is ribbed.
	Soft line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Calm lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, embossed texture of the wall after panel assembly.
	It is applied to finishing of external walls and rooms. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a thorn-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the wrong side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

Video - How to choose lining

We calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe inner lining

For example, let's take a bath 3x3 meters with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be carried out on all walls and ceilings, the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bath - a steam room 2x3 and an entrance hall 1x3 meters. We calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsheathing the steam room.

1. Ceiling area: 2x3 \u003d 6 m 2.
2. The area of ​​​​the long wall: 3x2.5 \u003d 7.5 m 2.
3. The area of ​​​​the short wall: 2x2.5 \u003d 5 m 2.
4. Total floor area: 6 (ceiling) + 7.5 (first long wall) + 7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m2.

We calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsheathing the hallway.

1. Ceiling area: 1x3 \u003d 3 m 2.
2. The area of ​​​​two long walls: 3x2.5 \u003d 7.5 m 2. 7.5x2 \u003d 15 m 2.
3. The area of ​​​​two short walls: 1x2.5 \u003d 2.5 m 2. 2.5x2 \u003d 5 m 2.
4. Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total sheathing area will be 31 + 23 = 54 square meters. From this figure, subtract the area of ​​window and door openings, and then add a 15% margin of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many planks of lining are required to sheathe the inner surface of the bath.

The most popular profile size is as follows:

• panel thickness 12.5 mm;
• panel width 96 mm;
• panel length from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how many square meters of material are in one cubic meter, calculate the number of packages (1 package \u003d 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of lining the room.

Advice! You should not buy lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the sauna lining will have to be completely or partially changed.

Choose the method of mounting the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bath is a horizontal one.

Consider a number of advantages of this type of attachment:

When erecting and finishing turnkey baths, builders often mount the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical fastening, it is easier to arrange corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often “goes sideways”, because if a vertical board is damaged by an accidental impact, fallen coal or high humidity, the entire wall will have to be disassembled.

Installation of lining

Before finishing, the walls and ceiling of the bath are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other heaters that do not deform when heated and do not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier is necessarily fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bath. The furnace and ventilation system are mounted before the installation of the lining.

PVC lining prices

pvc lining

Video - Insulation of the walls of the bath

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you can’t just nail the lining to it with nails. Consider the step-by-step process of ceiling sheathing.

Step 1. Assembling the crate on the ceiling

The crate will consist of slats with a cross section of 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats must be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a crate for insulation. The optimal distance between adjacent rails is from 40 to 60 cm.

Note! It is understood that the crate for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and as a result, a horizontal ceiling surface was obtained without distortions.

The slats will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining planks. We fix the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half a meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the rails for self-tapping screws so that the wood does not crack.

We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the rails should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last rail of the crate is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the rails, using a stretched fishing line / cord or a laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the rail.

In some cases, when it is required to make a lower ceiling in the bath, metal hangers are used to fasten the crate.

In this case, first on the ceiling with long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), suspensions are fixed, after which the crate beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that the assistant holds the second end of the rail and monitors the correct position of the crate.

It is advisable to impregnate a wooden crate with an antiseptic so that it lasts longer.

Note! You can first assemble the crate of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to the installation of the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach the slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Mounting the lining on the ceiling

It is not necessary to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of the hardware and the appearance of rust spots on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first bar, a spike should be cut from it. To do this, we draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board along with an electrolobe, apply it to the place of the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

On a note! If you are working alone, use panel supports. This will make it much easier to keep her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the crate. We maintain a step of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless screws. If you want to sink the heads of the self-tapping screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the self-tapping screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or a bracket is shot. Kleimers are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the crate, so that the lining is attached to the rails, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of kleimers are used staples, then they shoot into the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a spike. To seal the connection, we take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and easily tap it along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp with a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the lath of the crate, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, knock on the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, a ceiling ventilation grill, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut out the panel, insert the part of the board with the spike into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the lining, tap it with a mallet.

Note! Periodically, you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. For this, it is convenient to use a tape measure. We insert the "tongue" of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling are 60 cm wide, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.

The last board, as well as the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Mounting lining on the wall

Step 1. Mounting the battens on the walls

We fasten the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following rails in the corners of the room.

Also, slats will pass near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (the length of the staples for a 20 mm thick rail is from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical rails are installed, the crate is nailed around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal rails, the first of which is mounted with an indent of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of breaking through the foil with sharp edges is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be grinded. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed rails.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting pitch, horizontal bars of the crate are fixed using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.

Note! The crate described above is suitable for mounting the lining vertically. For a horizontal arrangement of lining strips, horizontal rails are first attached to the wall, and vertical ones on top of them.

It is worth noting that if the walls of the log house are sheathed with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in the dressing room), then the crate is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs of the log house with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Mounting the lining on the walls

If lining boards will be arranged vertically, then we fix the first bar from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 cm.

To beautifully decorate the corner, cut off a spike from the board. We apply the lining to the crate, check the verticality, screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix with clamps or brackets (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions are described above).

If lining will be located horizontally, installation starts from the ceiling.

We drill holes for self-tapping screws, apply the board to the crate (necessarily with the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, check the horizontal position. We screw the screws into the drilled holes. We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be closed with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the brackets.

We insert the second board with a spike into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we again fix them with clasps or staples.

Video - Lathing of the steam room

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install the skirting boards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), ceiling lamps and sockets, and make shelves. On this, the lining of the bath inside the clapboard is completed.

In cases where a bathhouse or sauna was once built not from a wooden beam, but from other materials available at that time, the problem subsequently arises of lining the inner walls of the steam room with technologically advanced raw materials for self-care. Clapboard lining for such cases is the best option.

Finishing the lining of the steam room looks impressive

How to choose the type of material for sheathing

Plastic or wooden lining? Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of wooden lining:

1. High environmental friendliness of the material. In particular, pine or spruce will release fungicides from the resin for a long time, which is an additional healing factor.
2. A more varied type of surface texture, even expanding if the lining is made with eurolining.
3. Ease of installation.
4. Excellent thermal insulation performance.

Disadvantages of wooden lining:

1. The need for antifungal impregnation.
2. Higher financial costs (even for an ordinary lining, not to mention the euro).
3. The dependence of the coating resistance on the initial quality of the material.

Advantages of plastic lining:

1. Less cost of funds for the acquisition of material.
2. A variety of textures and colors (this can also be achieved for wooden lining, but at a much higher cost).
3. Simplicity and ease of care.

Disadvantages of plastic lining:

1. Reduced (compared to wooden lining) temperature resistance - with sharp temperature fluctuations, the material is deformed.
2. Less thermal insulation.
3. The need to equip the crate (for a wooden lining on a wooden wall, the crate can not be performed).
4. The need to equip a more advanced steam room ventilation system, since the plastic does not “breathe”, and the fungus settles on the walls much faster.

Comparing the specific operating conditions of the steam room (duration, temperature), it is not difficult to make the right choice of material.

You can make a steam room in the old Russian style

The need for material and tools for work

If for plastic lining the selection process consists only in determining the most favorable color and texture of PVC panels, then with wooden lining the situation is more complicated. As you know, two types of material are produced:

• eurolining, on which there are ventilation and drainage recesses;
• ordinary.

The usual one, in turn, is produced in several classes - Extra, A, B and C. It is clear that the Extra class lining will have the best quality, but is it worth using it to finish the steam room - a room that will be used from time to time? Class B material is also quite suitable (up to three knots per linear meter are allowed) and even C (the presence of possible through holes in this case is not critical, since, with proper ventilation of the room, dampness will not spread inside, causing material to rot).

To properly sheathe the steam room with clapboard, you will need the following tools and materials:

• screwdriver,
• hammer,
• galvanized or anodized fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws, screws),
• blunt core,
• sanding skin.

Of the materials, in addition to the lining itself, you will also need a heat insulator for the ceiling in the steam room. More often, foil finishing or, in a cheaper version, two-layer plastic wrap is used. It is advisable to use only high density polyethylene.

Foil as a heat insulator for lining

Foil trim will require more safety considerations when an electric boiler is used for heating, as well as when protecting the premises from lightning strikes. After all, foil is a conductive material. The same security measures should be taken with regard to the electrical insulation of lamps that can be placed in the steam room. By the way, all electrical fittings and wiring must be completely ready before the start of lining the room with clapboard.

Determination of material consumption

The need for material for cladding is determined by the known area of ​​the inner surface of the steam room. In addition, the direction of the skin is important - vertical or horizontal. The fact is that the main movement of steam - from the bottom up - creates such conditions for the circulation of moist and heated air in the steam room, in which the lining on its lower surface will remain wet longer than on top. For PVC lining, unlike wood, this will not matter much.

With the wrong direction of laying the clapboard, some tree species - for example, aspen, birch - need additional processing with moisture-resistant transparent varnishes, which will provide the wood paneling with higher durability. By laying the lining correctly, you can avoid these additional works.

A vertically laid material will not provide the same conditions for thermal expansion / contraction of plastic panels: the upper ones will deform more intensively than the lower ones. Finishing with wooden clapboard with a vertical arrangement of the strips is also undesirable, but for a different reason - the inevitable uneven moisture content of the material.

Vertical arrangement of panels

Ultimately, the result is the same - to ensure the maximum possible durability of the lining when it is used in a steam room, the material should be fixed correctly - in a horizontal direction. In this case, only the bottom row of the coating will have the least resistance, but its re-sheathing will still be cheaper than replacing the entire steam room coating.

Standard lining panels have the following overall dimensions:

• length, mm - 2500-4000;
• thickness, mm - 10-16;
• width, mm - 150-300 mm.

To correctly determine the need for lining on a schematic plan, the steam rooms mark the relative position of all openings, after which they select the optimal multiplicity of panels. This is done so that the number of joints is the smallest. For plastic lining, one should also take into account the gap for thermal deformation of the material - up to 5-6 mm for each joint.

Mounting methods

Professionals perform installation in one of several ways. The following installation options are recommended.

Installation starts from the bottom far wall of the steam room

After laying the first panel, the next one is inserted into its grooves, on the inner ledge of which a clamp is nailed or screwed. The final attachment is made only after checking whether the adjacent lining strips are correctly installed. The advantage of the method is that each cladding element to be replaced can be dismantled without removing adjacent panels.

Mounting panels are nailed

For finishing, it is recommended to use a core so as not to damage the front surface of the material. With sufficient skill in working with a hammer, the process occurs very quickly. Also, additional costs for the purchase of clamps will not be required. True, replacing a panel that has become unusable will be more difficult than in the previous case.

Pin installation

Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled along the crate or directly along the wooden wall of the steam room, after which wooden dowels are inserted into them (it is possible with waterproof glue), wooden lining panels are superimposed on them. The final surface is carefully polished. The advantage of this method is that fasteners are almost completely invisible. In addition, the risk of panel deformation is significantly reduced, since in this case all fasteners are wooden.

The steam room is just that building in a country house where the presence of the most natural materials is required. This requirement is justified not only by decorative considerations, but also by ecological ones. The release of steam and high temperatures can greatly affect the materials with which the wall, floor and ceiling are lined. And if the materials are of insufficient quality, they will emit harmful substances. What kind of wood is better to sheathe a steam room?

Figure 1. Scheme of lining the steam room with clapboard.

The main and best material for finishing a steam room is wood.

It is easy to install and easy to maintain. The tree will have an extremely positive effect on the health of visitors. But there are quite a lot of tree species, so you should decide which tree to finish with. Consider the most common and practical types of wood intended for this purpose.

Overview of types of wood for finishing the steam room

From wood today, two such basic materials are used for finishing baths, such as a block house and lining. But even they come from different tree species that have different properties. The best breeds for a bath are linden, larch, aspen, ash, oak, white acacia, spruce, pine and cedar.

Figure 2. Scheme of block house installation.

Many wood specialists constantly argue with each other which species to choose: hardwood or coniferous. On the one hand, conifers are good because they do not change their color over time, so they always remain in the same form in which they were originally during installation. On the other hand, hardwoods are considered more resistant to temperature fluctuations and high degrees of humidity. But both of them have their own characteristics.

Deciduous trees

Linden is considered to be the best deciduous tree for decoration. This tree at the same time perfectly retains heat, but also does not heat up too much, due to which there is no burning of the skin if you have to touch even very hot walls. Linden has the ability to release twice as much essential oils as other trees. Therefore, it is ideal for the body. And due to the fact that its vapors increase sweating and are hypoallergenic, the effect is enhanced.

Aspen can be considered an excellent alternative for linden. In terms of its healing properties, it is the same. Moreover, this tree also has the ability to change the mood to a positive and calm one. Aspen is not subject to rotting, and it is very easy to work due to the fact that its fibers are quite soft and obedient.

Ash and oak have approximately the same properties. These are quite durable trees that are little prone to rotting and deformation under the action of high temperature, especially oak. They release less antiseptic into the air, but are quite good in practical terms. Oak eventually changes its shade to a darker one, but this does not spoil its appearance at all.

If you want the most practical and useful steam room, then it is better to finish some elements from oak or ash that are most susceptible to heat. After all, ash and oak, despite the fact that they are resistant, tend to get very hot. Remember that ash must be treated with special products more carefully, as the risk of fungus is slightly higher.

Another excellent type of wood for finishing a steam room is white acacia. In the case of its correct pre-treatment, acacia can surpass oak in its strength and resistance to deformation. Due to the fact that acacia boards are less common, it is advisable to finish the floor of the bath with them, since it is more susceptible to influences.

coniferous trees

From coniferous tree species, it is advisable to dwell separately on larch. This is the most durable and stable coniferous tree for a bath. It releases many useful oils into the air that can significantly increase human immunity. And if you make not only walls, but also floors from larch, you can be sure that every year they will only become stronger. Keep in mind that such a tree does not attract bark beetles, which is another positive point.

The cedar has approximately the same properties. It costs a little more, so if you do not have the opportunity to finish the steam room with it completely, you can use its wood for installation only in some individual parts. It is especially good to place cedar boards where the greatest amount of steam accumulates. This increases its usefulness and antiseptic effect on the body.

Spruce and pine are also common tree species for finishing a steam room in a house. They release useful substances into the air to a lesser extent, and are more susceptible to deformation. But at the same time they are several times cheaper, and if you properly process them before installation, they will last for quite some time.

Finishing with clapboard, block house and ordinary boards

Now let's figure out what is better to sheathe a steam room: with an ordinary board, block house or clapboard. So that you can decide what to choose better and cheaper, consider some of the features of these three finishing materials.

Sheathing of the steam room with clapboard (Fig. 1). This is a good material, as it is easy and pleasant to work with it. Due to the fact that there are already places for joints on the lining sheets, they will fit well without causing inconvenience. The small gaps provide a minimum of clean air circulation, which is essential for greater material durability and to prevent future warping.

You do not need to choose a lining for finishing a steam room made of pine or spruce, as it will constantly release a lot of resin, which will clog between the gaps and prevent air from circulating freely. The optimal type of wood is linden or aspen. Even if the air in the gaps may not be enough, the lining will not deform, these rocks are resistant to all influences.

The second finished material for finishing the steam room is a block house (Fig. 2). This is the most modern material, which, according to its characteristics, is capable of several times exceeding a very thick log. Due to the fact that the elements of the material are not flat, but slightly rounded, the tree will not deform, even if it is made from inexpensive wood varieties.

Another feature is the reduction over time of resin emissions from block houses, which are made of pine or spruce. At the same time, wood does not lose its useful properties at all. The technology provides over time only to improve the quality of the breed of these trees.

But with strong heating, even such a finishing material becomes hot enough if it is made of pine (spruce). Therefore, it is not recommended to get carried away and trim the steam room in this way. In general, a block house is good from any tree - both deciduous and coniferous.

Perhaps the most economical option would be to cover the steam room with ordinary wooden boards. It's cheap, because you can find this type of board and saw it yourself for almost no money. Particular attention should be paid to the process of treatment with antiseptics.

But finishing the steam room with this method has one significant disadvantage: it is quite difficult to make it yourself, since you will have to use self-tapping screws, a frame, and follow the joints. Therefore, there is no guarantee that such a coating will be ideal and will serve for a very long time. This finish is good for a temporary steam room, where big expenses are not provided.

So, when choosing a sheathing material and a method for how to sheathe a steam room, it is necessary to take all this into account so that the result of the work does not disappoint. This is especially true of the capital finishing of steam rooms, where considerable funds have been invested.

High-quality finishing of a steam bath is not only a beautiful view and a pleasant aroma from fresh wood, but also the durability of the structure itself. After all, in a real Russian bath, as they say, the steam is such that “it’s just right to hang an ax”, and the air temperature can reach up to 120 ° C. And just the finishing of the steam room protects its walls from such an aggressive influence, on the one hand, a person from burns or allergies, on the other.

Finishing the walls and ceiling - what you need to know?

The main thing to remember is one thing: wood stains or varnishes cannot be used in a steam room - at high temperatures they will negatively affect human health.

Quality wood = quality finish

How high-quality the interior finish of the steam room will turn out directly depends on the quality of the lining wood itself - it is important that it is well dried, hewn, and does not have any notches or knots on the surface.

We can say that hardwood lining is universal for a sauna steam room. It is characterized by a rather low heat capacity, due to which the room warms up quickly, but at the same time, the walls do not heat up much, and therefore a person does not experience discomfort from contact with them.

And each of these breeds has its own special features. So, birch, as it were, charges the human body with positive energy, and aspen, as it were, draws out negative energy (and with it, diseases). That is why they are so often combined in the steam room.

Birch - if there are alternatives, pass by

The birch has a loose structure, and therefore, when it is harvested for construction, it dries out a lot. Due to this, it is easily processed with protective substances.

Larch - finishing for centuries

Larch in the steam room will be the most durable - it perfectly tolerates the extreme temperature changes and high humidity familiar to the bath.

Linden - good, but requires processing

Linden wood attracts many with its beautiful white color. But in addition, it is moisture resistant and resistant to deformation, which is also no less important. Yes, and it heats up from all other breeds for the longest time, and therefore it can sheathe both the ceiling and the wall near the stove - this is safe. In addition, linden in the heat begins to emit an excellent aroma - unobtrusive and pleasant. But linden must be pre-treated with special substances - so that it does not darken.

Another interesting thing is that linden belongs to the so-called honey plants, which is why its wood “breathes”, perfectly absorbs water and provides complete sound insulation. At the same time, in a moisture-saturated environment, it does not change its smell, color, or medicinal properties.

Aspen is the best option

Also, aspen is considered almost ideal for finishing the ceiling of the steam room. It is so strong that it has long been used in the construction of wells, cellars, baths and even temples. If this tree is harvested and dried correctly, unexpected qualities are revealed in it - incredible strength that even hammering a nail is unrealistic, absolute resistance to moisture and the complete absence of cracks. That is why floors in the bath are often made from it.

Aspen is practically not subject to decay, and, on the contrary, it also kills all mold and fermentation fungi - it was once put in cabbage so that it would not peroxide. As for the impact on human health, here, aspen has its own advantages: it relieves headaches and discomfort in the joints.

Floor in the steam room: tile or wood?

As for finishing the floor, the temperature at its level rarely rises above 30˚С, and therefore such floors can even be earthen, clay and concrete. All they need is a good and fast outflow of water from the bath. But in order for a steamed person not to receive the so-called “heatstroke” when touching the floor, he still needs to be covered with a fibrous mat, plank flooring or a safe cork flooring.

Both tiles and polished boards are suitable for finishing the floor in the steam room. Of course, tiles are not afraid of permanent moisture like wood.

The finishing technology itself is simple: the boards are placed on the logs as tightly as possible to each other and fastened with self-tapping screws. For tiles on the floor, a screed is initially made, and the surface is well leveled. The tile itself must be laid on a special adhesive mixture, treating all seams with a special moisture-resistant grout, which will not allow moisture to get under the cladding and form mold there. But it will be necessary to put a wooden shield on such a finish - so that people resting in the bath do not slip.

The conclusion is this: the tiled floor is good for easy maintenance, and the wooden one is for creating general comfort.

What can not be done with a wig?

No matter how competent the do-it-yourself finishing of the steam room is, it is impossible for her to use such materials: linoleum, plastic, pine boards and wood boards. All of them are not suitable for high temperatures: plastic and linoleum immediately release toxic substances into the air, and pine - resin. Yes, and chipboard and fiberboard boards cannot be used for finishing the steam room - because of their easy flammability and high hygroscopicity.

A good bath finish is not only a pleasing design, but also a multiple increase in its healing properties for a person!